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Not sure if they are the same as the NCV bottles from a while back. I used to recycle those for further use by pulling the plunger out of a 20ml syringe, sticking on a silicone tube on to the other end, fill up the syringe, put the plunger back and press. It takes a little effort but it works...

I wonder if this can be turned back into a RTA finish:think:

I don`t mean to a fear-monger. If you feel it`s better to purchase a new battery then by all means go for it. As I`ve said, I`ve dropped batterries before and still used them with no problems. I take battery safety very seriously because I fly a lot, well used to anyway. So I did as much...

:rolleyes:I love those glass dropper bottles. It improves hand eye coordination while demonstrating the ability to multitask. :D

Exactly like those.:)

Off hand there’s really no telling if the battery is fine or not. You will have to understand the construction and operation of an 18650 cell to be 100% certain. Manufactures usually do drop/vibration tests to determine the survival of a cell. As @Andre said if the battery is badly damaged it...

Ive also built two of those "doo hickeys". Mine are not that accurate but for a quick voltage checker it works perfectly. At 4.17V there’s nothing to worry about. The non existent self discharge on the EFEST is curious though.

Thanks guys, great advice. I’m a total noob and really appreciate the information. I’ve also had the ring on the concentrate cap fall into the mix while adding concentrate. After the second time I just removed it from all the concentrates. For those that have used @Paulie s e-liquid in the past...

I have not used the Wraith 80w nor the Subdrip 160w but if you want to drive dual claptons and have decent battery life then, on paper, the 160w will be the way to go.

I dont think that there`s anything wrong with using a charger to check the voltage. A good charger shoud have an accuracy of +/- 1% of 4.2V to prevent over charging of the battery. I also have an Xtra VC4 charger that I use to check battery capacity from time to time. Remember though that in the...

Using Kanthal, like I do on some of my setups at 3.6V it`s definitely noticeable. However recently on the OL16 with the 8 wrap SS316L 2.5mm ID which comes out at 0.24ohm, cold, for dual coils I tend to get closer to 3.1/3.2V before I notice and need to change batteries.

The charge cycles will depend on how low you discharge your battery. 200 to 300 cycles is doable as we don’t discharge down to 2.5V which is what the manufacture usually discharges to when doing tests. LiON chemistry batteries are volatile batteries. That’s one of the reasons they work well for...

As @Sprint said best to check the spec sheet. Most of the LiON cells have a minimum cut off voltage of 2.5V. I used to vape down to 3.6/3.7V but since using SS316 I go down to 3/3.1V as you dont notice the drop of in flavor and clouds. There is no damage to the battery at that voltage however...

Vape mail from @Sir Vape

:oops::D:p Completely missed that. Just saw the post in the "latest" tab and was curious.Went to the website and saw the TFA KB and wanted to order:(

@kimbo Have you bought from them before? I wanted to order the TFA Kentucky Bourbon but there`s no option to ship to SA or did I miss something?

Lol. The chips look like they went on a diet:D. They are hand cut chips that were triple cooked. Crispy on the outside and soft and squishy on the inside. They started off quite thick and by the third fry they were looking anorexic:rolleyes:

Not really out and about. Todays supper for @Rob Fisher :) Beef spare ribs and chips:D done over hot coals. Didn`t feel like the St Louis styled pork belly ribs today. The BRM (Barbque Rib Manufacture) factory shop not too far from where I work:) so I`m quite a frequent visitor there:--)...

BRB;-)

With the mercury still climbing it’s time to break out the lighter stuff :D