Thanks for the info, I see the Samsung datasheet says cutoff of 2.5v, but I mostly use only down to 3.7v in a vape.
I guess 1 time test wont hurt them too much.
For what its worth, my laptop batt was replaced so I opened up the old one.
6 x UR18650F sposed to be 2200mah but mine were only...
I got hold of a capacity tester from Mantech, the ZB2L3 and was wondering what I should set the lower voltage cutoff point to?
I see Mooch uses 2.5V as the cutoff, but the auto test function uses 3v as the cutoff.
I would try a fiberglass pen of the type used to clean electrical contacts.
Spin it in a 510 adapter chucked in a drill, slow speed and hold the pen against the sides.
IMO it probably correlates to the amount of pod systems and disposables that have emerged on the market, together with the new vapers that have changed over from smoking.
Another work stand, this time for the front wheel.
I was getting squealing from the front wheel so I wanted to check out the wheel bearings and overhaul the brake caliper.
$380 from the US, ie R6080 ront. :)
My version from some steel lying around.
It was very likely a nicad pack, but I've found the these repacking places dont want to touch li ion.
IPP in Milnerton also wont do laptop batts for the same reason, as well as case sealing issues I spose.
They were quite happy to do nicad's and NiMh for my old RC stuff.
I have a Golisi Needle USB charger, 4 bay for R100.
Not what you were asking for, but there if you'd like.
Bought in April this year but it only charges at 500ma, my 20700 dont always get a full charge during load shedding, so I bought 2 bay D2 instead.
My example of the classic, "if it looks stupid, but it works..."
Paddock stand for my Baby Duke, angle iron (30mm x 3mm x 2m) cost R64, cheapest I've seen them is R750 on Gumtree.