Another Coil Question

vaalboy

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I have seen a number of threads warning against coil shorting. What should you look out for and what would you expect if this would happen? I can't find much about the subject on the net.
 
Basically it is when a short (electrical bridge) occurs due to the coil touching a part of the atomiser it shouldnt.

Electricity will always pick the path of least resistance - if there is a bridge it can jump, it will choose it and the coil won't fire.

See pic below:

1. is the negative post of the atomiser
2. is the positive post
3. shows the plastic insulator that prevents 1 from forming an electrical circuit with the base of the atomiser.

The highlighted yellow area is where the coil short could occur, if the base of the coils were touching anywhere near the breather hole below the center of the coil

Coil Shorting.JPG

This was a triple twisted 32g Kanthal on my KF3.1

If it did short, it drains huge amps from the battery, and the whole atomiser will get super super hot
 
Basically it is when a short (electrical bridge) occurs due to the coil touching a part of the atomiser it shouldnt.

Electricity will always pick the path of least resistance - if there is a bridge it can jump, it will choose it and the coil won't fire.

See pic below:

1. is the negative post of the atomiser
2. is the positive post
3. shows the plastic insulator that prevents 1 from forming an electrical circuit with the base of the atomiser.

The highlighted yellow area is where the coil short could occur, if the base of the coils were touching anywhere near the breather hole below the center of the coil

View attachment 2158

This was a triple twisted 32g Kanthal on my KF3.1

If it did short, it drains huge amps from the battery, and the whole atomiser will get super super hot
Work of art that coil! And the explanation not too shabby either. Thank you, sir.
 
That is one of the reasons why it is important to measure your resistance before firing. Your meter will not measure in case of a short, so early warning system. I recommend you measure before and after putting on the cap of the atomizer. For your coil might be just touching the cap, which would cause a short. In the case of the Reomizer2, the drip tip is very close to the coil, so be very careful if using a metal drip tip and have it in when measuring. The Reo has a collapsible spring. The spring will collapse, releasing the battery from making further contact, in case of a short. This minimises the risk of a battery exploding. The RM2 also has a ceramic deck on which the coil cannot short.
 
Basically it is when a short (electrical bridge) occurs due to the coil touching a part of the atomiser it shouldnt.

Electricity will always pick the path of least resistance - if there is a bridge it can jump, it will choose it and the coil won't fire.

See pic below:

1. is the negative post of the atomiser
2. is the positive post
3. shows the plastic insulator that prevents 1 from forming an electrical circuit with the base of the atomiser.

The highlighted yellow area is where the coil short could occur, if the base of the coils were touching anywhere near the breather hole below the center of the coil

View attachment 2158

This was a triple twisted 32g Kanthal on my KF3.1

If it did short, it drains huge amps from the battery, and the whole atomiser will get super super hot
DAMN! Thats a nice coil! Didnt think of doing that with a coil yet, make a coil and see its to big to fit in between the kayfuns screws, then it goes to the Trident. Gonna try that !!! Thanx!
 
Basically it is when a short (electrical bridge) occurs due to the coil touching a part of the atomiser it shouldnt.

Electricity will always pick the path of least resistance - if there is a bridge it can jump, it will choose it and the coil won't fire.

See pic below:

1. is the negative post of the atomiser
2. is the positive post
3. shows the plastic insulator that prevents 1 from forming an electrical circuit with the base of the atomiser.

The highlighted yellow area is where the coil short could occur, if the base of the coils were touching anywhere near the breather hole below the center of the coil

View attachment 2158

This was a triple twisted 32g Kanthal on my KF3.1

If it did short, it drains huge amps from the battery, and the whole atomiser will get super super hot

Great explanation and awesome pics.
 
That is one of the reasons why it is important to measure your resistance before firing. Your meter will not measure in case of a short, so early warning system. I recommend you measure before and after putting on the cap of the atomizer. For your coil might be just touching the cap, which would cause a short. In the case of the Reomizer2, the drip tip is very close to the coil, so be very careful if using a metal drip tip and have it in when measuring. The Reo has a collapsible spring. The spring will collapse, releasing the battery from making further contact, in case of a short. This minimises the risk of a battery exploding. The RM2 also has a ceramic deck on which the coil cannot short.

I assume that is the negative pole battery spring which is fitted at the bottom of the mod? Is a collapsed spring visually noticeable or will the reo just not fire?
 
I assume that is the negative pole battery spring which is fitted at the bottom of the mod? Is a collapsed spring visually noticeable or will the reo just not fire?
Yes, that is it. In the case of a proper short it will noticeably collapse. Sometimes people go too low in resistance (below 0.6) and the battery struggles leading to a slow, partial and gradual collapse. One first notices this in sparkling at the top of the battery when firing - if filing and applying noalox does not help - check the spring. This too low firing will also melt the contact parts of the push button - which then has to be filed as well. The new sub-ohm kit should prevent all this. In my about 7 months of owning Reos I have never had a collapsed or partially collapsed spring or melted button - no doubt because I have spares!
 
As I understand it @vaalboy, when the spring collapse due to overload, the battery will be loose and not make contact with the positive side when you press the Fire button.
 
Great stuff as usual guys. @Matthee have you ordered the sub ohm kit and are they available yet?
 
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