I have an interest in how the batteries and coils affect your vaping. This stems from the camping side of things whereby the second Mommy says, "I think a fridge in the car would be really nice" dictates that you are going to spend a shitload of money.
Many will think that all you have to do is plug it into the ciggy lighter thingie. Not so. The amp rating on the thingie is usually too low and burns the wires or you end up with a flat crank battery after it has drawn too many amps.
So now you need a deep cycle battery, a solenoid or DC_DC charging system, an aux box and fuses and loads of wiring. Think 10 Grand.
Yesterday I decided it was time to change the cotton on the Dvarw clone. On impulse I decided to wrap a new coil and get it as close as I could to the 0.4 Ohms as liked by @Rob Fisher .
I chose a N80 single core clapton 24/36, 2.5 ID 6.5 wraps and got 0.44
Previous coil was a comp wire twisted at 0.3
It is amazing what a difference it makes. I popped in fresh batteries into the Manto and ran at the usual 20W. After the coil bed in I am running at a measly 18W and getting pretty much the same vape experience as I was with the lower ohm coil. Wicking is good, plenty of bubbles. Flavour = good for an ADV, it is not overpowering
One major difference, ... I am still on the same batteries that I put in yesterday and have gone more than 24 hours and still have a half left
0.3 coil is 13.7 amps estimated 5 sec puffs = 158 x 2 batts =316
0.44 is 8.41 amps estimated 5 sec puffs = 231 x 2 batts = 462
a 5.29 amp difference
146 puff difference
and all of this is calculated @3.7 V. If the mod is cutting the V down it will be even longer
No the wonder I only get a half a day out of the Blotto running dual coils at 0.25 or so.
Just some food for thought when buying a tank, the coil choice is going to have a direct correlation to your battery usage. Not so important for your session vaping but important for your ADV if you only have a couple of mods and limited batteries
Many will think that all you have to do is plug it into the ciggy lighter thingie. Not so. The amp rating on the thingie is usually too low and burns the wires or you end up with a flat crank battery after it has drawn too many amps.
So now you need a deep cycle battery, a solenoid or DC_DC charging system, an aux box and fuses and loads of wiring. Think 10 Grand.
Yesterday I decided it was time to change the cotton on the Dvarw clone. On impulse I decided to wrap a new coil and get it as close as I could to the 0.4 Ohms as liked by @Rob Fisher .
I chose a N80 single core clapton 24/36, 2.5 ID 6.5 wraps and got 0.44
Previous coil was a comp wire twisted at 0.3
It is amazing what a difference it makes. I popped in fresh batteries into the Manto and ran at the usual 20W. After the coil bed in I am running at a measly 18W and getting pretty much the same vape experience as I was with the lower ohm coil. Wicking is good, plenty of bubbles. Flavour = good for an ADV, it is not overpowering
One major difference, ... I am still on the same batteries that I put in yesterday and have gone more than 24 hours and still have a half left
0.3 coil is 13.7 amps estimated 5 sec puffs = 158 x 2 batts =316
0.44 is 8.41 amps estimated 5 sec puffs = 231 x 2 batts = 462
a 5.29 amp difference
146 puff difference
and all of this is calculated @3.7 V. If the mod is cutting the V down it will be even longer
No the wonder I only get a half a day out of the Blotto running dual coils at 0.25 or so.
Just some food for thought when buying a tank, the coil choice is going to have a direct correlation to your battery usage. Not so important for your session vaping but important for your ADV if you only have a couple of mods and limited batteries
