Innokin SVD vs Vamo V5

Innokin SVD vs Vamo V5


  • Total voters
    7
  • Poll closed .

LandyMan

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Hi all,
I was looking at getting the Vamo V5, but due to stock issues it is a bit difficult. That being said, if I see something, I want it now :) So should I consider getting the Innokin SVD instead (bit more expensive) or wait for the Vamo V5.
Thanks
 
Personally I would go Svd. It just seems to be tougher than the vamo in general. And as far as I know it can build lower ohm coils than the vamo which cant go below 1.2. Exactly how much lower the svd can go I am not sure.

Imo the svd is just better.

Anyone else have input?
 
The Vamo's I have tried have been really sub standard... but I don't like the SVD at all and is outdated... so I would say neither. I would save up and get a Sigelei or anything else for that matter.
 
Like I said, saw it and wanted it, so bought an Innokin SVD. One question, when holding the +- buttons simultaneously, it shows me a 2.6A reading. Whag exactly does this mean, as the manual states this is the ohm reading, but I am sure my coil is 1.8ohm.

Thanks for all the input around the units

Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
 
Like I said, saw it and wanted it, so bought an Innokin SVD. One question, when holding the +- buttons simultaneously, it shows me a 2.6A reading. Whag exactly does this mean, as the manual states this is the ohm reading, but I am sure my coil is 1.8ohm.

Thanks for all the input around the units

Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk

Never mind the question above. Figured out it is the Amp reading from the battery :)

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
Never mind the question above. Figured out it is the Amp reading from the battery :)

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

That being said, according to the manual, holding the + and - buttons simultaneously must give the ohm reading, why would mine be giving the amp (from what I can see) reading?
 
It is giving you an ohm reading. The A confused me at first to. Maybe its an R gone wrong or the closest they could get to an omega sign. I don't think the svd shows an amp reading. Holding either the +or - will give you battery voltage. Both gives you resistance. As to why you getting a high resistance reading make sure your contact points are clean and the atty is making a solid connection. If its still reading high the coil is suspect.
 
It is giving you an ohm reading. The A confused me at first to. Maybe its an R gone wrong or the closest they could get to an omega sign. I don't think the svd shows an amp reading. Holding either the +or - will give you battery voltage. Both gives you resistance. As to why you getting a high resistance reading make sure your contact points are clean and the atty is making a solid connection. If its still reading high the coil is suspect.

Hhmm. Interesting. So the coil I got with the protank was reading 2.6. Put a new spare one in this morning, not the spare from the protank box, and reading 2.1 now, still sure it is 1.8 that I bought though (forgot to check before putting it in)

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Hhmm. Interesting. So the coil I got with the protank was reading 2.6. Put a new spare one in this morning, not the spare from the protank box, and reading 2.1 now, still sure it is 1.8 that I bought though (forgot to check before putting it in)

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
The one reading 2.6 could be a 2.5ohm head and it has been known for 1.8ohm heads to vary anything up to 2.2ohm. kanger had shocking qc on coils at one stage. The only way to put your mind at ease might be to find someone with an ohm meter at test against the svd. I wouldn't be to concerned tho.
 
The one reading 2.6 could be a 2.5ohm head and it has been known for 1.8ohm heads to vary anything up to 2.2ohm. kanger had shocking qc on coils at one stage. The only way to put your mind at ease might be to find someone with an ohm meter at test against the svd. I wouldn't be to concerned tho.

I have a meter at home somewhere, will check tonight

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Lekker grootbek :) Erm, where do I put the prods to check? LOL

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Lol!

Put one on the centre pin (usually the phillips screw) and the other on the metal body.

Ps. Touch the probes together first to check resistance in wires. If its 0.3 then you need to minus this from your reading. So if wire resistance is 0.3 and you reading is 2.0ohms its then an actual resistance of 1.7ohms.
 
Lekker grootbek :) Erm, where do I put the prods to check? LOL

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Easiest way is take coil head out. One probe on the end at the bottom thats slotted with the little hole in and the other on the threads.

Also good advice from @StangV_2 check the lead resistance and deduct from read value.
 
Lol!

Put one on the centre pin (usually the phillips screw) and the other on the metal body.

Ps. Touch the probes together first to check resistance in wires. If its 0.3 then you need to minus this from your reading. So if wire resistance is 0.3 and you reading is 2.0ohms its then an actual resistance of 1.7ohms.
Easiest way is take coil head out. One probe on the end at the bottom thats slotted with the little hole in and the other on the threads.

Also good advice from @StangV_2 check the lead resistance and deduct from read value.

Thanks guys.

So, wire resistance jumps between 0.2 and 0.3, with the coil resistance jumping between 2.8 and 2.9, which means the SVD's reading of 2.6 is spot on. Damn, far way off from 1.8ohm.

Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys.

So, wire resistance jumps between 0.2 and 0.3, with the coil resistance jumping between 2.8 and 2.9, which means the SVD's reading of 2.6 is spot on. Damn, far way off from 1.8ohm.

Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
The newer kanger coils are a bit better with resistance values. The older ones were so bad I rebuilt them before even using them.
 
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