Let's peel the potato

Resistance

Resistance

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I want this thread to be the place new vapers and older vapers come to read up on vape related hardware and software issues,But...yes there is a but.
In non technical terms.
Eveyone dont understand all the tech talk and some members needs to ease into it. Like vaping start you off with a kit,normally and then upgrade to a suitable setup. This should be the place were we can comunicate safety, problems, issues in easy to understand (laymans) terms
And I am inviting everyone to participate.
 
I'll start off with Resistance of coils.
Different metals have differnt rates of allowing electricity(current) to flow through based on the percentage of iron and other ferrous metals(that can be magnetised). And this causes resistance/(restriction) which heats up the wire and this is what we use. The heat generated by the resistance to current flow and is measured in ohm's after the guy that found it in his studies. Georg Ohm.
And a link to read a bit more
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
 
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Resistance said:
Had to spark some interest
Click to expand...
After a long time friend started vaping again and her husband also started too, I showed her my stuff and then referred her this forum to learn more plus get support as she's really struggling to kick the cigarettes with vaping.

Now she wants to upgrade from a pen kit to one with huge clouds. I recommended the ijust 3 to start off with for cloud and flavour. Hopefully that will get her off the stinkies, I also recommended that she upps her juice Nic strength to 6mg on the pen kit, she wanted to try 18mg so that's why I referred her here.

So info on nic strengths along with flavour and clouds would be beneficial too. As I can't give much, being stuck on 2mg and soon cutting it out.
 
Lol @Resistance I thought this was recipe related:-D

I think this is a great idea for a thread.
The vape world is like the programming world, you learn something new every day. Thank you for the initiative.
 
Mah.
Milli amps per hour. Its the capcity the battery cell holds.3000ma can deliver 3000ma for 1hour.
This does not mean you can judge how long the battery will last.
For instance, a 3000 mAh battery could power a device drawing 100 mA (milliamp) for 30 hours. A device drawing 200 mA would last only 15 hours.
And a high drain and direct drain device like a vape mod (mech)will deplete it in a short while,maybe a few hours and a regulated device might last longer,yet still depending on how much current you draw
 
Awesome thread @Resistance !

Maybe you can explain to me, in laymans terms, which battery would be best to use in a Mech mod. I am contemplating getting a VGOD Pro or such but not sure which battery to use. I know the Mah rating has something to do with one's choice but apparently so does the continuous discharge. E.g. Samsung 30Q's have a 3000mah capacity but a 15a discharge, then on the flip side the Samsung 25R's have a 2500mah capacity but a 25a discharge, or the middle road with the LH HG2's which have a 3000mah capacity and a 20a discharge.

All I want to know at the end of the day, is which one is the safest/best to use in a mech mod.
 
@ivc_mixer.
There are a few Battery cells that's rated safe for mechs.
If you are into Mtl and a new vaper and delving into mech's for the first ime. I would suggest a commercial coil atomiser till you do some more reading and research or you can get help from a friend to personally show and explain the basics.
Some vape shops offer this service free of charge
As for the battery cells.samsung 25R is a mech users go to because it can handle the high drainage rate. I am not saying the other cells are not capable, I am saying it is tried and tested to be safe to use in a mech.
The other battery that was tested and deemed to be good as it says it is,is ampking battery cells.
Never test a battery cell to its limits.
Safety should be the first thing you think about before vaping.
Heres also a link to batteries that was tested to be safe to use in a mech.
https://batterybro.com/collections/moochs-recommended
I hope this helps you @ivc_mixer.
If not then feel free to ask there is alot more help on this forum than what I can offer but with fellow forum members that can help and guide you,you should be vaping hapilly soon.
 
@ivc_mixer remember battery wraps is one of the most important safety mesures you need to follow.
The battery cell can short and vent/release toxic gasses and even explode if it does.
 
Resistance said:
As for the battery cells.samsung 25R is a mech users go to
Click to expand...

I've got a number of 25R's at home, along with 30Q's, so was curious which ones to use when I go mech. Been vaping for a number of years now so know about the safety re mechs but was never sure which batteries are best to use and why and you answered this in simple terms, thank you. :)

Resistance said:
remember battery wraps is one of the most important safety mesures you need to follow
Click to expand...

This is something I have covered in spades. Got like 80 wraps at home. Bit of a collector.
 
I
ivc_mixer said:
I've got a number of 25R's at home, along with 30Q's, so was curious which ones to use when I go mech. Been vaping for a number of years now so know about the safety re mechs but was never sure which batteries are best to use and why and you answered this in simple terms, thank you. :)



This is something I have covered in spades. Got like 80 wraps at home. Bit of a collector.
Click to expand...
@ivc_mixer I have 30Q and 25R, and use both in a mech. Sometimes I get a harder hit on my 30Q than 25R due to my build.and I build around 0.2ohm for Dl and around 1.5-2.5 ohm for MTL.
And if I use the 30Q for MTL I get a mellower hit ,but the cells last longer.
So its subjective according to my build in the atty. There is no yes or no,
Yes the 25R or simular cell has a higher current release rating but it depends on the coil resistance you apply to the circuit. A lower coil build will draw the 25R safely(subjective to build) and drain it faster and a higher coil build will draw it safer and a bit slower.
The 30Q in a low build for DL will hit harder probably because its closer to the current release rate threashold but its not always safe to do this.
And a high coil build for MTL will draw the cell effecient enough to stay in the safe zone and last longer
 
I prefer my builds around 0.15 - 0.25ohm

And honestly did not know you could do MTL with a mech mod....
 
ivc_mixer said:
I prefer my builds around 0.15 - 0.25ohm

And honestly did not know you could do MTL with a mech mod....
Click to expand...
also a 30Q should work on your 0.15 build but that would be on the high end of the cell limit. that would draw about 20 Amps +/-,but you should be in a better space with a 25R or equivalent
 
0.25 should work great on the 30Q though. you will draw about 12Amps+/-( safe zone)
 
Can you guys explain to a battery noob why you rate the 25R higher than the 30Q when Mooch rates them the same at 20A CDR and 25A max discharge? I've never understood this but have heard it so often ("the 25R is a 25A battery") that there must be something to it. What am I missing?
 
@RichJB Like i said I am not the most clued up guy here.I just wanted a thread where people dont get scared of by acronyms.
Whenever a question is asked its answered in tech terms where some people already have the answer and still is dumbstruck by the terms used.
I will still try to answer your question to the best of my abillity.
That same guy smooch tested the cells I have not ,he also said max discharge current within a certain temperature range withoiut overheating, but it works like this.
You can draw the current on both equally but a surge in current draw is better suited to the smaller capacity cell as there is less internal surface to pass through which causes heat and current loss.it also has to do with the chemical composition inside the battery cell.
If you take an alkaline 12v battery and a lead acid 12v battery of the same size, you would have 100%luck starting a car and running the electronics with the lead acid than with the alkaline.
 
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OK, so it's a battery composition thing rather than a straight CDR rating thing? Does this apply to other batteries as well? Mooch should perhaps mention this in his tables, that one 20A battery may be more suited to lower resistance builds than another due to differing battery chemistry.
 
@RichJB
As far as I know the IMR is the better cell compared to the others.
It handles current discharge better at reasonable temps and even surge discharges and continuos discharges than
Icr,Inr,Ifr, while the others might hold larger capacities.Again I didnt test myself. Yet I wish someone would send me some free stuff to blow up.
I am a analyst by trade so I analyse by info already available
 
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Chanelr said:
Would you say battery wraps are important for all mods or specifically mech mods?
Click to expand...
All mods in order to prevent a short and ensure safe operation. Specifically a mech to not blow your face off.
 
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