Maybe a bit of a doff question but I'm gonna ask it still the same... what is the difference between a MOD and a Mech Mod? The does Mech Mod not have the electronic screen etc? What are the benefits of a Mech Mod over a Mod if any?
Mech Mod Vs Mod
- Thread starter Rob Fisher
- Start date
Rob there are basically two mod types:
Mech mod (eg. Reo, Nemesis, Magneto)
Electric mod (eg. VTR, SVD, Any DNA20 or DNA 30)
Mech mods are purely mechanical devices, they provide power from the battery when the mechanical switch closes the electrical circuit. The atomiser only receives the amount of voltage that the battery has, and around 70% of battery capacity the vape changes, because the voltage output of the battery has dropped down.
Electric mods use a processor chip to regulate wattage to the atomiser. Usually you can dial in wattage/voltage and the device will send that amount of power for pretty much 80% of the battery. Using "phase-inverter pulse width spectral undergarment xray cryptography" * you can send pulses of electricity that provide a fixed wattage or voltage, even when the voltage of the battery has dropped. Usually an electric mod has built in safety that prevents running the voltage on the battery too low, where as with a mechmod the user needs to monitor that themselves.
Also the electric mod allows you to adjust wattage, and often check the coil resistance. They also tend to have a built in failsafe that turns off the power if the button is pushed for more than 10 or 15 seconds.
(* or some other technology that @johanct can explain)
Mech mods are much more robust in principle, since there are no electronic components. However they require a bit more care and skill, and can fire for indefinite periods if left in a pocket and the button gets pushed.
Electric mods are a much more user friendly type of device, and I would say more forgiving
Mech mod (eg. Reo, Nemesis, Magneto)
Electric mod (eg. VTR, SVD, Any DNA20 or DNA 30)
Mech mods are purely mechanical devices, they provide power from the battery when the mechanical switch closes the electrical circuit. The atomiser only receives the amount of voltage that the battery has, and around 70% of battery capacity the vape changes, because the voltage output of the battery has dropped down.
Electric mods use a processor chip to regulate wattage to the atomiser. Usually you can dial in wattage/voltage and the device will send that amount of power for pretty much 80% of the battery. Using "phase-inverter pulse width spectral undergarment xray cryptography" * you can send pulses of electricity that provide a fixed wattage or voltage, even when the voltage of the battery has dropped. Usually an electric mod has built in safety that prevents running the voltage on the battery too low, where as with a mechmod the user needs to monitor that themselves.
Also the electric mod allows you to adjust wattage, and often check the coil resistance. They also tend to have a built in failsafe that turns off the power if the button is pushed for more than 10 or 15 seconds.
(* or some other technology that @johanct can explain)
Mech mods are much more robust in principle, since there are no electronic components. However they require a bit more care and skill, and can fire for indefinite periods if left in a pocket and the button gets pushed.
Electric mods are a much more user friendly type of device, and I would say more forgiving
Mod can be either electronic or non-electronic. Mech mod has no electronics and electronic mod has obvious electronics. I see people use the term "mod" very loose and cause a lot of confusion.
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Thanks @devdev and @johanct. That answers my question perfectly!
Now the question arises that if you are at the mercy of the battery charge and the resistance of the coil then finding the sweet spot (or perfect wattage) on a Mech MOD can be a bit of a hit and miss affair?
I guess that's why @Matthee's chart is so important?
Now the question arises that if you are at the mercy of the battery charge and the resistance of the coil then finding the sweet spot (or perfect wattage) on a Mech MOD can be a bit of a hit and miss affair?
I guess that's why @Matthee's chart is so important?
Yip total hit or miss if you don't measure, plan ahead and fiddle alot. Also why measuring the resistance of your coil, and continuously monitoring the voltage of the battery you are using becomes essential, until you learn the 'feel' of the setup.
It's for this reason that some folks prefer electric mods, as they are much more consistent. I know @Gizmo finds the consistency of his electrical mods much less hassle as there are less battery changes for all day vaping
It's for this reason that some folks prefer electric mods, as they are much more consistent. I know @Gizmo finds the consistency of his electrical mods much less hassle as there are less battery changes for all day vaping
Indeed, I am a lazy vaper. I also love the electronics in electronic mods and how they continually evolving. 
I, on the other hand, prefer the less interfered with pure power of the mech mod, which, with an RBA, is more customisable. Also, if my Reo falls in the dam, I can just fish it out, dry and vape on. At this stage mech mods can produce more power, but that is changing. A electronic mod with a DNA30 can produce the same power as a mech mod with a 0.6 ohm coil.
. At this stage mech mods can produce more power, but that is changing. A electronic mod with a DNA30 can produce the same power as a mech mod with a 0.6 ohm coil.
Also, if my Reo falls in the dam, I can just fish it out, dry and vape on
Oh WOW... that wasn't subtle at all! I read you so loud and clear @Matthee!
I use my electronic mod (SVD) for anything from 1.3Ohms up and my mech mod (KTS) for anything under 1.3Ohms. Got the Kayfun set up at 1.5Ohms so I use that with the SVD (Elec mod) and of course all the clearos, then my Trident at 0.4Ohms and the RSST at 0.9Ohms I use on the KTS (Mech mod).
@Rob Fisher that's why when you tested the mini I mentioned that all you can really adjust is the coil to change the vape experience and my set up may not suit your requirements. (I think Andre mentioned the same in your report back thread). In my case I prefer a warm heavy TH vape so have a sub ohm coil fitted close to the posts and lifted quite high. Opposite will apply. Even small adjustments to coil positioning make quite a difference which I imagine is due to changes in air flow characteristics in the RM2. The down side is the consistency issue from the battery draining, but the upside is I can get a few extra vapes from a drained battery if needed without it automatically switching off. In my case, always having a few charged batteries is a not negotiable.
Lovely thread. Glad you started it Rob.
Your explanation @devdev was superb
I have a question though for those folk who have both elec mods and mech mods.
Suppose your elec mod can produce the same power at low resistance like your mech mod, say 19watts. Say a DNA 30 chip device for example.
I wonder if there will be a difference in the vape experience between the "pulsing" of the elec mod and the "normal" direct firing of a mech mod.
Your explanation @devdev was superb
I have a question though for those folk who have both elec mods and mech mods.
Suppose your elec mod can produce the same power at low resistance like your mech mod, say 19watts. Say a DNA 30 chip device for example.
I wonder if there will be a difference in the vape experience between the "pulsing" of the elec mod and the "normal" direct firing of a mech mod.
If you want to get from Fasttech, I can most def suggest the Raivapes launcher. No crap solid mech mod!
I would suggest a telescopic mod because of the ease of setting up. No pins and switches to set for different batteries. Just pop it in and go. My 2c
I agree telescopic mods are much better for mechs
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I wholeheartedly agree on the Raivapes. Just an awesome solid mech.
Do not think any of us has electronic mods that can deliver power at 19 W, but as @johanct has mentioned somewhere the power delivered by a mech mod is just more unadulterated and, in our opinion, makes for a better vape.
Jip! The firing button is flush at the bottom.
If you want to go local, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Smok Magneto (4 available at Vapeking). It has a very smooth magnetic switch and is of solid quality. The button does extend in firing mode, but does not fire when stood up on a table in this mode.
As to "must knows", read these threads: http://www.ecigssa.co.za/index.php?threads/important-mechanical-mod-safety.792/ AND http://www.ecigssa.co.za/index.php?...-mod-safety-battery-safety-and-ohms-law.1094/
howsit @Gizmo
i dont quite understand what is meant by 'telescopic mod/tube'
can you please explain it to me
the main reason i ordered a mech mod was too venture in the world of lowing ohming.
the svd is limited to which ohms it can handle, so i want to try somewhere close to 1ohm and see what its all about.
also, with all the hype re mech mods, i just had to get one
i also believe that once i get the nemesis i wont be buying anymore hardware (YA RIGHT riaz, keep telling yourself that)
the svd is limited to which ohms it can handle, so i want to try somewhere close to 1ohm and see what its all about.
also, with all the hype re mech mods, i just had to get one
i also believe that once i get the nemesis i wont be buying anymore hardware (YA RIGHT riaz, keep telling yourself that)
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