Microcoil Inner Diameter

[Tom]

Hi,

I did the previous coils on a 1.5mm drill bit; but it was a schlep with fiddling the cotton in as well as the liquid flow was sometimes not so good. So, now i just tried a 2.5mm drill bit, same principle. I did not notice a difference with the plumes or flavor. But it feels that the liquid flow is better now....which makes sense tho (more cotton in the coil)

why does everyone suggest the 1.5mm inner diameter? is there a specific reason? or maybe its just me that does not notice any differences with flavor and plumes. did you guys test 2.5mm before?

both, 1.5mm and 2mm, came out at 1.4 ohm, btw.

edith says: throat hit is increased with 2.5mm...imagination?

 

[RevnLucky7]

You do the exact same amount of wraps on both diameters?
Also how would you know that the liquid flow is better if the vapor production and flavor remained the same? What would you judge it by?

>>>> NOTICE: THREAD HAS BEEN MOVED TO GENERAL MODDING <<<<

 

[Tom]

You do the exact same amount of wraps on both diameters?
Also how would you know that the liquid flow is better if the vapor production and flavor remained the same? What would you judge it by?

>>>> NOTICE: THREAD HAS BEEN MOVED TO GENERAL MODDING <<<<

nope...it is obviously not the same amount of wraps. with same principle i meant "microcoiling". If I recall correctly I have now 2 wraps less then before. just did trial and error on that.
I don't know if anything other then ease of fiddling cotton inside improved, that's why I am asking you guys for more info on that, from your experiences. For me it just felt that there was no decrease or increase of the plumes or flavor. the possibly increased liquid flow is based on being able to do a quick chain vape session without getting dry hits as fast as before.

 

[Andre]

Tom, in principle (and I'm no expert) I think the smaller the ID the quicker and hotter the heat up, which should make for more flavour and throat hit. The bigger the ID the more likely you are to have more juice in the bigger wick with the danger (with the slower cool down) of your juice not tasting as fresh as always. That said, many peeps prefer the mini/standard coil at a 2.0 mm ID. For me the most important is that you use what is best for you and your taste - that is your personal sweet spot, which might not be the same for the next person.

 

[TylerD]

To add to @Matthee, I also think it is because you get a longer coil with more wrapps, thus getting more cotton coverage. This is also the reason guys do the twisted coil. More wraps = longer coil = more cotton coverage.
I just do micro coils because I like it and it is easy. If I struggled, I would have made bigger ones. I think one must do what makes it easy and enjoyable not a burden.

 

[Tom]

Hi Guys,

thanks for the input, very interesting. I will experiment a bit more this weekend, trying a 2mm drill bit. Maybe I can give more feedback next week, at least for my personal sweetspot. I did enjoy the 1.5mm mc from all aspects, besides the fiddling with the little amount of cotton that can be used then.

 

[Tom]

@Gizmo do you have kanthal 0.28 available? would like to get some over the weekend

 

[Gizmo]

I have 28 yes

 

[Andre]

28g Kanthal is my stock size for micro coils (1.4/1.5 mm ID). Cotton did not work for me, too lazy to have to change wick every day and the initial taste puts me off, etc. Been using 1 mm silica doubled and pulled through with dental floss. For the last 6 days been using 1 mm Ekowool, well torched and wriggled through with some difficulty. Think it performs better and lasts longer than standard silica. Waiting on some XC-132 ceramic wick to try.

 

[Tom]

28g Kanthal is my stock size for micro coils (1.4/1.5 mm ID). Cotton did not work for me, too lazy to have to change wick every day and the initial taste puts me off, etc. Been using 1 mm silica doubled and pulled through with dental floss. For the last 6 days been using 1 mm Ekowool, well torched and wriggled through with some difficulty. Think it performs better and lasts longer than silica. Waiting on some XC-132 ceramic wick to try.

thats something I need to try as well then. I have some silica lying around. I just want to trial all the options.

 

[Silver]

Go for it Tom, and let us know so we can learn and save time

LOL, when I get there knowing me I'll probably try every option under the sun too.

 

[Tom]

another question....should i get, besides the 28 kanthal, also 30 or even 32? or is 28 good for a lot of coil setups?

 

[TylerD]

another question....should i get, besides the 28 kanthal, also 30 or even 32? or is 28 good for a lot of coil setups?

Up to now I have only used 28 gauge. Only now going to use 30 and 32 to get higher ohms for the svd.

 

[Andre]

On mech mods, 28g is more or less the standard, but as TylerD pointed out for electronic mods you sometimes need 30g, maybe 32g, for higher resistance to be able to use the power of the electronic mod.

 

[Rowan Francis]

Yup . Esp. Got 30g and 32g for my SVD ...

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[Silver]

What resistance coils are you mainly using for your SVD @Rowan Francis ?

 

[Rowan Francis]

I like to aim for 1.2 ..

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[Tom]

I like to aim for 1.2 ..

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i just made a 1.8 ohm, after having 1.3-1.4's before. busy testing. trying to figure out what the difference is...

 

[Andre]

If you use the same power (Watts) for those, you should notice a difference, but if you power up to compensate for the higher resistance, you should get the same result...that's the advantage of VW.

 

[Tom]

If you use the same power (Watts) for those, you should notice a difference, but if you power up to compensate for the higher resistance, you should get the same result...that's the advantage of VW.

i actually did power up, before 7-9W was good enough, now it is 12-13W

 

[Andre]

i actually did power up, before 7-9W was good enough, now it is 12-13W

There ye go, that is the answer to why you could not detect a difference....

 

[Rex Smit]

see, this is where it confuses the crap out of me...
if you look at those Vaping charts, 1.2ohms at 13Wats will burn out the coil..or close to it.
And would that not give you a burnt taste...
are you then using MechMods & dripper?(sounds like it)
this is where all the wheels fall off the bus..

 

[Derick]

The burning taste comes from the wicking material I believe.

So the juice keeps the wicking material cool, and if the wick is not getting enough juice, the wicking material will burn.

This is where the different wicking materials come into play - I would think that ss mesh would be able to handle the highest temperatures, but some people claim that it gives them a metallic taste.

Next would be ceramic wick(XC-116) - it's cotton wick with ceramic fibres in it - the idea being that the ceramic fibres will absorb most of the heat and leave the cotton unburnt

Then there is silica wick - same principle, but silica fibres in the wick

Then there is fibreglass wick - fibreglass fibres, but people are a bit squeamish these days about inhaling fibreglass strands (the truth is that the chances of you inhaling fibreglass from a wet wick is pretty slim, and even if you did, it wouldn't do much - fibreglass inhalation problems comes from inhaling thousands/millions of fibres over an extended period of time - e.g. people cutting fibreglass for a living)

The idea of putting different heat absorption fibres in rope to absorb heat is not new - our fireplace has a door, and the door's seal is fibreglass rope - it can handle the heat of the fireplace without burning - this practice has been around for many years (zippo lighters also use fibreglass wick)

EDIT: some vendors use silica and fibreglass wick interchangeably - the idea being that silica is in effect glass, and glass fibres, so = fibreglass

EDIT2: i've googled many times, but cannot find if silica wick is in fact the same as fibreglass wick - the only thing I can find is that you get fibreglass with a higher silica content - the more silica in it, the better it is at resisting high temperatures - so perhaps the silica wick is in fact just high silica fibreglass wick

 

[Tornalca]

i actually did power up, before 7-9W was good enough, now it is 12-13W

My coils are in the region of 1.4 -1.7 ohm. In Kayfun and IGO-L on my SVD @ 13-14 watts. Waiting for my mech.

 

[Andre]

see, this is where it confuses the crap out of me...
if you look at those Vaping charts, 1.2ohms at 13Wats will burn out the coil..or close to it.
And would that not give you a burnt taste...
are you then using MechMods & dripper?(sounds like it)
this is where all the wheels fall off the bus..

That is a good question @Rex Smit. One cannot change Ohm's Law. So if, with fresh batteries, you use the same atomizer at a resistance of 1.2 ohms at 15 W on the VW mod and then on a mech mod, the effect should be more or less the same.

1. VW mod at 15 W: V = 4.24264, A = 3.53553
2. Mech mod with a 4.2 V battery: A = 3.5, W = 14.7

In fact at 15 W on your VW mod the voltage (V) and current (A) will be slightly higher, thus, a little bit more heat than on the Mech. At this numbers you should not notice it.

Now if we look at that same atomizer with a 1.8 ohms coil.

1. VW mod at 15 W: V = 5.19615, A = 2.88675
2. Mech mod on a 4.2 V battery: A = 2.33333, W = 9.8

On the VW mod at that Voltage the coil will start to overheat trying to generate more current, burn the coil, wick and juice and will eventually short. On the Mech you will be fine, but won't have much of a vape.

From the above one can infer that a mech mod will only come into its own below 1.2 ohms. Let's look at Ohm's Law with a coil at a resistance of 1.0 ohms.

1. Mech mod on a 4.2 V battery with 1.o ohms coil: A = 4.2, W = 17.64

The lower resistance coil can take the higher current resulting in more power. This results in the coil heating faster with higher heat, leading to more flavour, vapour and throat hit for the vaper.

DISCLAIMER: I am a total ignoramus when it comes to this stuff! Have tried to logic this out, BUT could be totally and completely wrong. Will the experts please help!!!