Official Squape Atomiser Thread

[devdev]

So my Squape Clone finally arrived from fasttech.

As I understand it, only @Andre has one on the forum.

Thought I would start a thread to spread the word about this puppy.

Lovely design, and is built so that you can rebuild, rewick and recoil without draining the tank.

Runs on very similar vacuum principle to Kayfun.

Only niggle at this stage is that the draw is tighter than I would like, almost too tight to vape. Inspection shows the airhole at very top of 510 connector, but it is tiny.

@Andre is there a second airhole on yours? Mine only has one

 

[Riaz]

i remember watching a youtube clip by rip trippers and he drilled that airhole out

just found the clip for you, here it is

 

[Andre]

So my Squape Clone finally arrived from fasttech.

As I understand it, only @Andre has one on the forum.

Thought I would start a thread to spread the word about this puppy.

Lovely design, and is built so that you can rebuild, rewick and recoil without draining the tank.

Runs on very similar vacuum principle to Kayfun.

Only niggle at this stage is that the draw is tighter than I would like, almost too tight to vape. Inspection shows the airhole at very top of 510 connector, but it is tiny.

@Andre is there a second airhole on yours? Mine only has one

Mine has 2 holes there. The draw is fine for me. Have not used that for a very long time as it gave me a metallic taste. Let me try it again quickly......yip, draw is perfect at 0.6, but still that metallic taste despite a good bath.

 

[Alex]

 

[Xhale]

I had an initial bad time with my clone, and still learning the ropes (occasionally get a dry hit)

Herewith, some nonsense I babbled onto my keyboard.

Th deck of the squape is coated in a non-conductive coating. This varies from clones to originals, but the point is the deck is non-conductive.

On my clone, I had fluctuating resistance due to some errors in the coating. Some people ftold of a fix by putting some kanthal down the positive pin hole (510 connector end) and putting the screw in ans out a few times to wear away the coating. I didnt even read about this until after I had fixed mine. Apparently, the squape cant be taken apart.

Here is how to take the squape apart.
Get the base into your hands...just the bottom piece. Open a vice a bit so that the base can fit on the vice upside down, supported by the outer stainless steel section. The "coated non-conductive section" should not be touching the vice..we dont want any wear on there.

Loosen the 510 postive pin a turn or two, and then gently tap on it with a hammer. This will in turn cause the coated piece to "plop" out. It is press fitted.

You will now have 3 pieces in your hands. The actual base, a positive round connecting block, and the coated round deck.

The positive connecting block has a screw thread, and the coating will most likely have gotten onto the threads. Wear the coating away around the screw hole, wire brush, dremel etc.

To reassemble: Line up everythign nicely in the vice. Use come cloth or something (I used carboard) to protect the non-conductive part against the vice jaws. Slowly tighten the vice. It will all "plop" back together again.

Now, if someone can tell me why everybuild I try cant handle more than 8 watts I would be grateful. I have evn gotten it to dry hit while gurgling.

Good points: You can much about with yoru build to your hearts content while keeping all your liquid safe...so even if you are a quarter way through a tank you can change coils/wicks etc. Great for experimenting. Also, no leaks...no leaks whatsoever from this thing. The vape I get is very swiss. Flavourful and controlled, but I cant push hard yet.

Love it. Looks odd..but love it