Can someone tell me the ohm range of the smpl?
Smpl mod clone
- Thread starter Nightwalker
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Hey bud..mechs dont have ohm ranges. Rather ask how low will my battery handle..
What he said.
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Just make sure your battery can handle the current draw and make sure you have actual vent holes..clones love fake vent holes which turns your mech into a pipe bomb if you hard short a crappy battery. Stay safe, live long and vape on.
0.000000001 till infinity I guess
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Well said good sir but that will require a BEAST of a battery, else enjoy cleaning up the vent spillage...trust me it stinks to high hell
Well that is the ohm range because you could do whatever you wanted
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Well thanks guys, I was really serious, because the ijust2 mod says not to build coils lower than 0.3. So I just wanted to make sure
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I'm also busy with researching mech mods and builds since I bought a FUhattan yesterday and I have a SMPL on order from fasttech.
From what I understand all you need to worry about is the Ohms law and what max current draw (A) your battery can handle.
For example I have a LG brownie in the FUhattan has 3.7v, so a 0.2ohm coil will draw 18.5A (+-69W). The brownie has a max draw of 20A putting my 0.2ohm within it's limits.
This is at least what I have managed to pick up online - I'm very much green when it comes to mech mods and I could be wrong.
I'm open to correction here.
Be very careful with this set up.AFAIK that battery is 4.2v and with that 0.2 coil you are at 21 amps.
Even if its 3.7 v you are still pretty close to the max.
Agreed. I always try stay atleast 5amps from the bats rating to allow for a 'safe zone'. Running .3 on my smpl mech dual coil 26g ss and its great.
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Thanks for the fore warning, i has read that the Brownie was 3.7v. Looks like i failed to notice that 3.7 is the nominal voltage and at fully charged it 4.2.
Glad you warned me this could have ended badly!
Once again eCigsa saved my life /BEEGHUG
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Most welcome,but if I was you I'd build no lower than 0.3 ohms then you draw 14 amps and have a nice safety margin.
Thanks I'll target for .3 in my builds as that works out to a decent 59W which is more or less where I would drip at (I vary between 60-70W).
My fingers thank you for saving them
No matter which mech you use, always refer to the rating of the battery. Always remember that a fully charged battery will be at 4.2v, so calculate your margins using that. Do not use the nominal voltage of 3.7, as you will exceed the rating when the battery is full.
If a battery is rated at 20A CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate), leave some headroom like 10% or 15% minimum, which in this case is 18A for 10% or 17A for 15%.
Looking at the LG HG2 turds, they were rated as 20A, but did reach 83 degrees C under constant load at 20A. Now not all us keep the fire button in that long, so you should likely not get close to that with chain vaping.
Using an Ohms Law Calculator and plugging in the values of 4.2V and 18A, we see that the lowest coil should be 0.23333 ohm, which will give you around 75.6W.
Using the nominal voltage of 3.7v and the coil of 0.23333 ohm, the current draw will drop to 15.9A and the power would be around 66.6W.
Manufacturers tend to overstate the ratings, so Mooch on ECF has put together a test rig and started doing some real-world tests on commonly used batteries to see what 'constant' load they can handle. Temperature is monitored during the tests and also taken into consideration. The batteries are put on constant load and checked at what point they fail, and also 'how' they fail, i.e. Do they get too hot for safe use, do they simply lose power by dropping voltage or do they vent.
Bookmark this thread locally for a handy one-spot reference to Mooch's tests : http://www.ecigssa.co.za/18650-battery-safety-grades-table.t14853/
or you can bookmark these 2 directly from the horse's mouth :
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...des-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/
Whatever you do, use the tables as reference and check the safe ratings they can handle. Let's try avoiding getting featured in another 'my vape exploded' online article.
If a battery is rated at 20A CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate), leave some headroom like 10% or 15% minimum, which in this case is 18A for 10% or 17A for 15%.
Looking at the LG HG2 turds, they were rated as 20A, but did reach 83 degrees C under constant load at 20A. Now not all us keep the fire button in that long, so you should likely not get close to that with chain vaping.
Using an Ohms Law Calculator and plugging in the values of 4.2V and 18A, we see that the lowest coil should be 0.23333 ohm, which will give you around 75.6W.
Using the nominal voltage of 3.7v and the coil of 0.23333 ohm, the current draw will drop to 15.9A and the power would be around 66.6W.
Manufacturers tend to overstate the ratings, so Mooch on ECF has put together a test rig and started doing some real-world tests on commonly used batteries to see what 'constant' load they can handle. Temperature is monitored during the tests and also taken into consideration. The batteries are put on constant load and checked at what point they fail, and also 'how' they fail, i.e. Do they get too hot for safe use, do they simply lose power by dropping voltage or do they vent.
Bookmark this thread locally for a handy one-spot reference to Mooch's tests : http://www.ecigssa.co.za/18650-battery-safety-grades-table.t14853/
or you can bookmark these 2 directly from the horse's mouth :
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...des-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/
Whatever you do, use the tables as reference and check the safe ratings they can handle. Let's try avoiding getting featured in another 'my vape exploded' online article.
I'll look for a regulated tube mod. Lol
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