Vapor Shark rDNA 40

[Rob Fisher]

Todd on the Vapor Shark rDNA 40 with Mini Sub Tank with the temperature sensing coils!

 

[dekardy]

Got my subtank mini and some ni200 on Friday together with some aspire temp sensing coils. Been playing with the aspire tsc.

It vapes . I'm not a high wattage sub ohmer so it's pretty much the same.

Will play with the subtank mini an ni200 during the week. Been fooling around with it using the 1.2 ohm OCC coil. It's an impressive little tank.

Thanks for the link. I certainly enjoy Todd.

Sent from my KFTHWI using Tapatalk

 

[Rob Fisher]

Rip on the Vaporshark rDNA 40... I must say I'm tempted!

 

[Paulie]

I just love mine !!

 

[capetocuba]

Mine coming soon ... I hope

 

[Silver]

But I thpught the temperature control thing was a bit of a pain for this generation of temp control devices? @Paulie?

 

[Paulie]

But I thpught the temperature control thing was a bit of a pain for this generation of temp control devices? @Paulie?

Temp control works better on the v4 dna40 boards but still is abit untrustworthy, however with the new Kangertech nickel wire pre made coils it works 100% so far! To be honest im waiting on results before i give the whole dna 40 another chance!

 

[andro]

Rip on the Vaporshark rDNA 40... I must say I'm tempted!

except my reos is my favourite device . go for it

 

[WHeunis]

I'm still praying to the vapegods everyday that @KieranD's next shipment of sharks arrive soon, and that he remembers to reserve me one.
I had to pass over the last group buy, as I was still fighting a pending payment for a large project I had completed days before. Long story short, I did get the money, but not in time to get in on the group buy round 1...

My shark-fate is in @KieranD's hands...

 

[dekardy]

I'm really enjoying mine. Had some issues with nickel builds in the beginning but after reading up a bit I now have none and it works well.

I see they released the VS DNA40, not the rDNA40, which looks to be about the same size as the cloupor mini. It's got a built-in LG 2500mAH battery, same as the rDNA, but its not user serviceable.

 

[Paulie]

Here some DNA 40 from phil brand new off the press which i posted today.

http://www.ecigssa.co.za/dna-40-board-impressions-and-discussions.t7444/page-2

This is about the board.

 

[Vincent]

I got one in the last/first group buy and at the time pure nickel wire wasn't available yet (locally at least), so I was rocking this thing with regular kanthal builds, a solid performer I must say! The build quality is impeccable (expected at that price point I suppose), the weak magnet on the door is of no concern to me because I use a shark skin and the zip charging concept isn't just a gimmick

I finally got hold of some nickel wire a few days ago and had great success on my very first build, this was on the RBA head of the Subtank Mini, I simply replicated this build:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Coilporn/comments/2vcjgb/11ω_28g_nickel_build_in_kanger_subtank_mini_w/

So far I've gone through about four tanks of juice on this build and haven't noticed anything strange, this switching between environments with radically different ambient temperatures.

Some things I've noticed:

• The rubbery finish can get damaged rather easily by atomizers, not the end of the world but annoying nonetheless. I know some folks are cutting up screen protectors to layer in between the device and the atomizer.
• The weird chrome type finish on the fire button seems to be wearing a bit on mine.
• Wireless charging causes the device to heat up substantially and even more so with the shark skin on, this as a result of inductive charging, so it's by design... but still, it got hot enough to make me nervous. Also, since it has to lay flat on it's side you may have to take off the atty (to prevent leaking all over), not really a problem with USB charging since it can stay upright...

So yeah, overall, I feel it was money well spent

 

[andro]

I got one in the last/first group buy and at the time pure nickel wire wasn't available yet (locally at least), so I was rocking this thing with regular kanthal builds, a solid performer I must say! The build quality is impeccable (expected at that price point I suppose), the weak magnet on the door is of no concern to me because I use a shark skin and the zip charging concept isn't just a gimmick

I finally got hold of some nickel wire a few days ago and had great success on my very first build, this was on the RBA head of the Subtank Mini, I simply replicated this build:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Coilporn/comments/2vcjgb/11ω_28g_nickel_build_in_kanger_subtank_mini_w/

So far I've gone through about four tanks of juice on this build and haven't noticed anything strange, this switching between environments with radically different ambient temperatures.

Some things I've noticed:

• The rubbery finish can get damaged rather easily by atomizers, not the end of the world but annoying nonetheless. I know some folks are cutting up screen protectors to layer in between the device and the atomizer.
• The weird chrome type finish on the fire button seems to be wearing a bit on mine.
• Wireless charging causes the device to heat up substantially and even more so with the shark skin on, this as a result of inductive charging, so it's by design... but still, it got hot enough to make me nervous. Also, since it has to lay flat on it's side you may have to take off the atty (to prevent leaking all over), not really a problem with USB charging since it can stay upright...

So yeah, overall, I feel it was money well spent

i agree totally with you on the points you made and as well im not to bother by paint chips etc .
how do you find the wireless charging base? i havent been able to use mine because it keep beeping every 30 sec and connect and disconnect . any idea on how to solve this ?

 

[Vincent]

i agree totally with you on the points you made and as well im not to bother by paint chips etc .
how do you find the wireless charging base? i havent been able to use mine because it keep beeping every 30 sec and connect and disconnect . any idea on how to solve this ?

I had the exact same thing happening at first when it was plugged into my PC, I was using a designated charging port on my motherboard capable of sourcing up to 1.2A of current but it turns out it wasn't enough juice... I did some reading and it looks like it needs 1.5A for this thing to work properly. I plugged the base into a spare iPad charger with a max output current of 2A and the beeping has gone away