What exactly is my mod telling me.

[Stranger]

After a discussion with Timwis, my interest was piqued as to what my mod is actually telling me. So I took 4 regulated mods and used the same Voopoo Pnp pod. I used fresh batteries fully charged in each one.

The first is the Puma.

It reports a resistance of 0.19, 30 watts that I set it at and Volts at 2.41.
Now my understanding has always been that the Volts will show what is required to push current through the coil to achieve the set wattage.
The battery indicator is visual as opposed to numerical and shows me the state of charge ranging from (mod dependent) 3V to 4.2 per cell. The batteries will show as being flat when they reach the lowest allowed by the mod.

Next up the Jelly box


This shows a difference 0.16 resistance and 2.19 V required

The Mechman 80 W tube mod shows exactly the same.

The Rincoe Manto showing some differences.

So I post these on my journey of understanding how the regulated mods convert the power to heat the coil and do it consistently until such time as there is no power left sufficient to heat the coil at the set wattage. The circuits must contain a DC-DC converter much the same as I use on the 12 V aux battery installations that I do to 4x4 vehicles. A normal lead acid crank battery needs 13.8 Volts to charge whereby a deep cycle battery requires 14.4 and hence the use of the DC-DC system.

Please feel free to discuss as I am wanting to wrap my head around this.

 

[Dela Rey Steyn]

It will differ from chipset to chipset. Without knowing their exact circuitry the discussion would be a moot point. Your vape is telling you to press the button, take a drag and enjoy the vape. As interesting as most things are to know, it's more trouble trying to understand than what it's worth. Just enjoy the vaping strange Stranger man

 

[Dela Rey Steyn]

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/t...y-voltage-to-maintain-desired-wattage.916777/

 

[Stranger]

14 minutes of pure pleasure, thanks man.

 

[SmokeyJoe]

After a discussion with Timwis, my interest was piqued as to what my mod is actually telling me. So I took 4 regulated mods and used the same Voopoo Pnp pod. I used fresh batteries fully charged in each one.

The first is the Puma.
View attachment 232693 View attachment 232694
It reports a resistance of 0.19, 30 watts that I set it at and Volts at 2.41.
Now my understanding has always been that the Volts will show what is required to push current through the coil to achieve the set wattage.
The battery indicator is visual as opposed to numerical and shows me the state of charge ranging from (mod dependent) 3V to 4.2 per cell. The batteries will show as being flat when they reach the lowest allowed by the mod.

Next up the Jelly box
View attachment 232695

This shows a difference 0.16 resistance and 2.19 V required
View attachment 232696
The Mechman 80 W tube mod shows exactly the same.
View attachment 232697
The Rincoe Manto showing some differences.

So I post these on my journey of understanding how the regulated mods convert the power to heat the coil and do it consistently until such time as there is no power left sufficient to heat the coil at the set wattage. The circuits must contain a DC-DC converter much the same as I use on the 12 V aux battery installations that I do to 4x4 vehicles. A normal lead acid crank battery needs 13.8 Volts to charge whereby a deep cycle battery requires 14.4 and hence the use of the DC-DC system.

Please feel free to discuss as I am wanting to wrap my head around this.

Still think the Puma is an amazing bang for buck mod.
Extremely reliable. Dare i say as much as the pico?
Still have 2 pumas myself, got wet (more like drowned) , kicked, dropped a million times and it still kicks like a horse.
For me one of the best budget mods, if not THE best budget dual mod

 

[Timwis]

Well first it tells me although using a mod to read the resistance with modest builds is fine when building for a mech at lower resistance always a better option to test on a reliable tab!

It also depends on the quality of the chip whether the information displayed is what is actually happening take the Innokin Kroma R, i'm sure @Grand Guru would of also found that if a tank you are vaping at 15w on other devices to get the same vape on the Kroma R you need 18w! Does that bother me? No and i still rate the Kroma R as a damn fine mod but then others would make a big issue about that slight underpowering!

 

[Grand Guru]

It’s all about looks and ergonomics for me… I never really bothered to learn much about the technical side. I Vape at low wattage with very long drags so I don’t really notice if a mod has a slightly long ramp up time either…

 

[Stranger]

I guess this is my OCD part. I have to know HOW things work, not just that they do. You can imagine what would happen if something went wrong on a 12 V automotive application. There I have to have huge 16mm sq multi strand copper wire from the main battery to the aux and in between I have to have a solenoid system or a DC -DC and lots of high amp fuses inline. Then add inputs from AC chargers and solar panels and solar controllers.

All of this so that a bloke can have a cold beer out of the fridge and ice for his wife's G&T while sitting in the bush.

 

[vicTor]

my mechs never tell me anything

 

[Dela Rey Steyn]

my mechs never tell me anything

One incorrect build or short and it will tell you a lot.....

 

[DarthBranMuffin]

One incorrect build or short and it will tell you a lot.....

It will tell you, show you, with diagrams and flow charts with detailed descriptions and reference to case studies...

 

[Stranger]

 

[Puff the Magic Dragon]

found that if a tank you are vaping at 15w on other devices to get the same vape on the Kroma R you need 18w! Does that bother me? No

I agree. You sometimes hear that a particular mod is underpowered. I've never understood this. If I normally vape at 60 W and buy a new mod and find that it delivers a cooler vape, I just bump up the wattage a bit until I'm satisfied.

Would I prefer it if all mods read coils accurately? Yes. In reality, they sometimes under or overread. Is this a big issue? No.

 

[Stranger]

@Timwis
@Puff the Magic Dragon

Out of interest, are you noticing this on single battery mods or dual as well. My research is pointing to most dual mods not having any kind of boost. Which makes sense if you have 8 V on tap

 

[DarthBranMuffin]

Stuck the DOTMTL on both the DotBox 75w and the Hellfire Titan DNA75C.

0.95ohm on the DotBox at 15w
0.93ohm on the Titan at 15w (without boost)
Both using Samsung 30Q and both at about 70% level

Titan does instant fire compared to the DotBox that has a slight delay. Titan also giving more of a "kick" and consistent performance through the tank, if I can call it that at the lack of using a dictionary and thesis to explain. So there is a clear difference between these two on performance on the same settings. This can definitely be ascribed to the boards in the mods being way way different. Don't think putting any proprietary board against a DNA/YiHi/Dicodes will be a fair comparison though.

Will I adjust the DotMod to higher power to match the Titan on performance? No, it still works just fine on the same wattage for me when it comes to MTL. If it was DL it would be a different story all together.

I dont have any VW dual battery mods, so can't comment on the duals.

 

[Puff the Magic Dragon]

If you want the technical details on most mods check out DJLsb Vapes. He includes charts like this :



https://www.youtube.com/c/DJLsbVapes/videos

 

[Timwis]

@Timwis
@Puff the Magic Dragon

Out of interest, are you noticing this on single battery mods or dual as well. My research is pointing to most dual mods not having any kind of boost. Which makes sense if you have 8 V on tap

But your phots show 2 dual and 2 single battery mods? I think how well a mod performs whether single or dual is how good the chipset is which although we all complain about lack of innovation what we can't deny is chipsets have improved immensely or should i say the lower and mid end chipsets have improved immensely to give performance almost identical to the premium chipsets, obviously having a or pair of fit for purpose batteries inside is also important! Obviously dual battery mods don't need a buck boost system as it has the voltage of two batteries to draw on, like you say how quick these vaping chipsets tackle these tasks is impressive!

 

[Stranger]

Just me and my electrical OCD I suppose but it may make a difference in purchasing choice. That Pnp pod on the jelly box with the rebuild able coil does a great job but the Intake on the M VV 11 that has a pot instead is in a different class, as does the Noisy 2. I agree totally with you on the improvement of the chipsets. I don't have any high end stuff but even the lower end gets the job done.
It has always been a mystery for me but I am now getting my head around it.

Single battery mods- high output = voltage conversion
Dual battery mods - high output = no voltage conversion

Raises a few questions when buying a mod, if you just want pure power then a pot mod is a safe bet if you are not going pure mech. If you want infinite control then the regulated mod is the choice. The you can also break it down to which mods do both VW and VV.

 

[Intuthu Kagesi]

Thought you may find this article of interest @Stranger

https://components101.com/articles/boost-converter-basics-working-design

 

[zadiac]

My mod isn't telling me anything. I didn't buy one with a voice box built in. It just sits there and waits for me to vape it.

 

[Raindance]

My mod isn't telling me anything. I didn't buy one with a voice box built in. It just sits there and waits for me to vape it.

C’mon @zadiac, it does make noises when you suck it just right, does it not?

Regards

 

[zadiac]

C’mon @zadiac, it does make noises when you suck it just right, does it not?

Regards

The atty, yes. The mod, no.