So i bought a nickel coil for the subtank mini to try it on my m80. Yes i know the m80 doesnt really pull off the temp control that great, but i still wanted to try it. Coil is supposedly 0.15ohm. The m80 fires down to 0.1ohm, But now the coil reads at 0.09ohm and it wont fire. Kind of a bummer.
First attempt at temp control
- Thread starter Barak
- Start date
Thanks for taking the time to tell me thatI would really of liked to offer you advice, but I don't own a temp sense device. I'm sure 1 of the more experienced users will reply soon
Only bought one to see if it will be worth it before I bought more. So yeah that is definitely possible.
What does it measure to on an ohm meter?
Dont have one to test unfortunately. That is only part of next months vape budget...
There is no advantage to using Nickel over Kanthal with the M80. It uses an algorithmic form of temp control (so basically it is approximating the behaviour of devices that read temp) and I find it works better with Kanthal than with Nickel.
This device does not read temperature, it uses the detected resistance, set temperature, and set power to perform it's approximation (by lowering power over time, etc).
If you want to experience real temp control with Nickel you need to get a device that works with Nickel (Evolv or Yihi based, or the new Evic VT).
For now just enjoy the smoother vape on the M80 using plain old kanthal - this to me is a major strength of the device (not a negative at all), but then I bought it knowing what it was
Yeah i know man. Was also curios to check out the very low ohm vibes. So a 2 birds one stone kind of deal. That is the only coil for my tanks that goes that low and didnt want to waste my current build on the tobh to go lower and i needed a new coil for the subtank. So i thought i'd try it. But noe i cant.There is no advantage to using Nickel over Kanthal with the M80. It uses an algorithmic form of temp control (so basically it is approximating the behaviour of devices that read temp) and I find it works better with Kanthal than with Nickel.
This device does not read temperature, it uses the detected resistance, set temperature, and set power to perform it's approximation (by lowering power over time, etc).
If you want to experience real temp control with Nickel you need to get a device that works with Nickel (Evolv or Yihi based, or the new Evic VT).
For now just enjoy the smoother vape on the M80 using plain old kanthal - this to me is a major strength of the device (not a negative at all), but then I bought it knowing what it was
Aha, that's a pretty good way to test out low ohm vaping but I suspect due to the difference in composition the experience on a 0.15 ohm nickel coil will be quite different to that on a 0.15 Ohm kanthal coil
You may actually have to recoil that Tobh
Yeah i will in a few days. Enjoying it too mich at the moment. Finally got the nickel coil to read above 0.1. So now i will finally get experience nickel.Aha, that's a pretty good way to test out low ohm vaping but I suspect due to the difference in composition the experience on a 0.15 ohm nickel coil will be quite different to that on a 0.15 Ohm kanthal coil
You may actually have to recoil that Tobh
approximating temp what balony did you even watch the pbsudardo review when he updated to the latest firmware and put it on the oscilloscope. Also you might have missed the part where it sets cotton alight in the dry burn test. You are defending a shoddy device because you are a fan of SMOK.There is no advantage to using Nickel over Kanthal with the M80. It uses an algorithmic form of temp control (so basically it is approximating the behaviour of devices that read temp) and I find it works better with Kanthal than with Nickel.
This device does not read temperature, it uses the detected resistance, set temperature, and set power to perform it's approximation (by lowering power over time, etc).
If you want to experience real temp control with Nickel you need to get a device that works with Nickel (Evolv or Yihi based, or the new Evic VT).
For now just enjoy the smoother vape on the M80 using plain old kanthal - this to me is a major strength of the device (not a negative at all), but then I bought it knowing what it was
It isn't approximating temp, it's approximating the behaviour of other temp sensing devices via an algorithm. It was never meant to be a temp sensing device in the traditional sense of the word. Pretty much every reviewer (except Mr Busardo) said as much - get it for a nice 80W mod, not for temp features
I got it for the batteryand for the way it looks. The temp thing i knew going in was bullshit. still no harm in playing around.It isn't approximating temp, it's approximating the behaviour of other temp sensing devices via an algorithm. It was never meant to be a temp sensing device in the traditional sense of the word. Pretty much every reviewer (except Mr Busardo) said as much - get it for a nice 80W mod, not for temp features
Th
there was more than enough evidence to proof it doesnt really work. If you are looking at a device like that, surely you mist be at the stage where you are doing proper research before buying something.
I would't say false advertising (it does do...something), but I'm sure they lost a few customers because of it.
However in this game it will be forgotten all too soon
As i stated to try a lower ohm coil and nickel coils are the only ones that come in really low ohms.
The issue here here is not temp sensing. Its the coil reading 0.09 instead of the 0.15 as it is stated on the coil.
So i let teh coil sit for a while in the tank, screwed it in and then it read 0.14. So i could use it. Then after about an hour, it jumped back to 0.08 so now its useless again.
So i let teh coil sit for a while in the tank, screwed it in and then it read 0.14. So i could use it. Then after about an hour, it jumped back to 0.08 so now its useless again.
nickol is resistance fluctuates based on temp. I find my device (ehpro a5 spd ) will read my coil at 0.11 when the coil is cold relative to the climate we have now. I fire that once or twice let it sit and then put the same tank onto the device and it reads at 0.14 and performs better. I know I was actually shooting for 0.12 ohm when I built the coil and 2 weeks ago it read at 0.12 when I built it.
I have RDA built that is doing something similar to your coil, I built it to be 0.1 ohm and it fired and was fine the first day. now it reads at .08 ohms and jumps up and down. I get a max amp message on my device out of the blue trying to fire that coil around 15w.
I have the OCC ni200 coils and i'm gettting a crappy vape on it vs the coil i built, Might be i messed up the coil when i started playing around with temp limitting.
best of luck man let us know if you figure out why these coils are shitty. I feel pretty cap since I spent on a 5 pack
I have RDA built that is doing something similar to your coil, I built it to be 0.1 ohm and it fired and was fine the first day. now it reads at .08 ohms and jumps up and down. I get a max amp message on my device out of the blue trying to fire that coil around 15w.
I have the OCC ni200 coils and i'm gettting a crappy vape on it vs the coil i built, Might be i messed up the coil when i started playing around with temp limitting.
best of luck man let us know if you figure out why these coils are shitty. I feel pretty cap since I spent on a 5 pack
@Barak unfortunately, the SMOK is sometimes a bit wonky in terms of its resistance reading. Hence your experience.
As mentioned the nickel coils change their resistance when the wire is heating which would explain your fluctuation. Oddly enough I've noticed the resistance to increase when the coil has been fired.
I think the biggest necessity for any temp control device is the ability to lock in that initial resistance when you put the coil on. This is something that the SMOK and the first 4 DNA40 versions don't have. This feature is perhaps the most important one for temp control.
It was indeed a worthy experiment to try the nickel coil. I'm sure your efforts will save someone who intended on buying a whole pack of tsc coils.
As @free3dom said and I'm sure you know already, the SMOK m80 is a good device for use with kanthal at its very reasonable price point.
Just a tip: if you are in the market for a true temp sensing device, consider a yihi chip or a dna 40 v5 chip. I have both and am incredibly happy.
As mentioned the nickel coils change their resistance when the wire is heating which would explain your fluctuation. Oddly enough I've noticed the resistance to increase when the coil has been fired.
I think the biggest necessity for any temp control device is the ability to lock in that initial resistance when you put the coil on. This is something that the SMOK and the first 4 DNA40 versions don't have. This feature is perhaps the most important one for temp control.
It was indeed a worthy experiment to try the nickel coil. I'm sure your efforts will save someone who intended on buying a whole pack of tsc coils.
As @free3dom said and I'm sure you know already, the SMOK m80 is a good device for use with kanthal at its very reasonable price point.
Just a tip: if you are in the market for a true temp sensing device, consider a yihi chip or a dna 40 v5 chip. I have both and am incredibly happy.
Similar threads
