Changes or additions to the construction of new RTA's & RDA's you want to see?

Waine

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I am writing this post for us to share our views as to what we think new RTA's and RDA's should have, and / or, not have — to improve our vaping pleasure.

Perhaps a few of the creators of these, mostly ingenious, tanks will by some stroke of good fortune, stumble upon this and similar posts. A "butterfly effect" may ensue and benefit us all in the long run. It's also cool to learn what features others like or dislike.

Here is my take:

When it comes to cloud production, vape density, flavor, airflow, juice flow control, aesthetics and small **** syndrome, it is all subjective in the world of vaping. However, there are certain aspects of RTA's that may be improved on if viewed objectively.

Less glass, more metal

I don't know about you, but I try to buy for keeps. I love quality, clever and practical manufacturing. I almost have a renal shut-down whenever I break the glass section of tanks.

So, you spend a (close to) grand on a tank, you love it, but clumsily break both glasses before the o-rings even wear out. It happens! A year later — the tank was never a winner, it is out of commercial circulation and you are stuck with a useless, glassless tank.

I want glass-less tanks that are made out of mainly steel, e.g. The Medusa 25mm by Geekvape. (Was on my wish list but it has grub screws) I want my tanks to give me a few years after a few drops on the tiles.

Alternatively, make steel tanks with very little but thick glass windows. For example the OMNI RTA by Shado Vapor / Grimm Green. (Was on my wish list but it has grub screws) It is highly unlikely that this small compact glass will break.

No more weeny little grub screws

I have moaned about this in a few threads here, I know, but seriously guys: These tiny, unpractical, finicky grub screws strip so easily. It's high time that manufacturers did away with grub screws completely or they heat treat them with super strong titanium or something. It is so hard to get spares. Give us proper, reasonably strong, biggish Phillips or flat head screws. The bottom Phillips screws on my Tornado Hero are also ridiculously small, and can also strip.

More screws

We need more screws in the spares baggie. One set is not enough. Not only do they wear over time but they fall down the drain when washing sometimes, they drop and bounce away into infinity on the floor, or get mis placed. Companies should take a leaf out of the Authentic Desire Mad Dog RDA, who included 8 spare in 4 different styled spare screws, i.e. variations of flat head and Phillips head.

Instruction leaflets

Tanks should be and are probably tested before manufacture. Some folk get leaks, battle with builds, use the wrong wire, use too much or too little cotton, and end up hating the tank. An instruction manual will every helpful especially with tanks that bear eloquent features. We shouldn't have to "You Tube" the correct way to coil and wick our new tanks. A good example is The Proto RTA by Sub-Ohm Innovations. This tank initially leaks – period! However if you wick it right, it won't. But at least they printed a user manual and actually warned us that if you wick it wrong, it will leak. Then they explain the correct way to wick, resulting in no leaks. It took me many hours of frustration and You Tubing to learn how to properly coil and wick my at first, very leaky; Aramomamizer Supreme.

Leaking

This has to be the biggest mood killer. Why do some tanks leak in my brief case, and others don't? We live in a portable world, we travel, we need non-leaking tanks, for goodness sakes! Please RTA creators, work on this aspect. I don't have the answers, I am only a consumer, but we need some more ingenuity here.

Juice filling holes

These need to be as big as possible. Some are so small that a syringe is required to avoid spillage.

510 pins

Why not just make all 510 pins protrude sufficiently so as to safely accommodate hybrid Mech mod enthusiasts? This will prevent nasty vaping accidents that give vaping a bad reputation.

Vaping evolution

I must admit, there are amazing and already big, rapid improvements — ones that I have observed in only just over a year, but how about you? What gets your goat? What improvements would you like to see? What must go, and what must stay?



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Less glass, more metal

I don't know about you, but I try to buy for keeps. I love quality, clever and practical manufacturing. I almost have a renal shut-down whenever I break the glass section of tanks.

On this point, even if they do not eliminate glass completely, I sure love the look of a newly pit stopped and filled up tank. They should at least use a standard size. If I take my Goblin mini V2 and the Serpent mini 22mm, They seem to be roughly the same size, they are the same diameter, hold the same volume, but the glasses are not interchangeable. The Serpents is slightly, very slightly shorter and thinner glass. For instance, 22mm 3ml glass or 22mm 4ml glass. 24mm 5ml glass etc.

Because I missed the last batch of Goblin mini V2 glass available in SA, I am to afraid to use mine and only take it out on special occasions. I still have one spare glass, but accidents do happen.

I think the same should go for securing screws. If they use a standard size across the board it will make life a lot easier for all of us.

edited to add some more ideas (in bold)
 
Last edited:
At the rate of which tanks are growing (from 16mm to 22mm to 25mm to 40mm) we might see ourselves tightening our posts with a 13" spanner in the near future.

So far, the Obs Engine Nano has fitted all the criteria i need in a tank. Big build deck, single coil, huge juice filling hole (cough cough), no way of leaking, super easy to wick (I suck at wicking), drip tip that isnt metal (not sure what it is - feels like POM), short stubby glass, very decent airflow... Only gripes are the grubs and non standard drip tip size.

I generally squonk when im out and about - no leaking issues, no glass in my bf drippers, mech squonk mods etc, so everything is super robust. I do agree on the grub screws point as well as standardising glass sizes, however this will never happen for the same reason as why you cannot use a VW Golf tappet cover on a Ford Focus.
 
At the rate of which tanks are growing (from 16mm to 22mm to 25mm to 40mm) we might see ourselves tightening our posts with a 13" spanner in the near future.

So far, the Obs Engine Nano has fitted all the criteria i need in a tank. Big build deck, single coil, huge juice filling hole (cough cough), no way of leaking, super easy to wick (I suck at wicking), drip tip that isnt metal (not sure what it is - feels like POM), short stubby glass, very decent airflow... Only gripes are the grubs and non standard drip tip size.

I generally squonk when im out and about - no leaking issues, no glass in my bf drippers, mech squonk mods etc, so everything is super robust. I do agree on the grub screws point as well as standardising glass sizes, however this will never happen for the same reason as why you cannot use a VW Golf tappet cover on a Ford Focus.


Are you referring to the drip tip on the engine nano? All mine seem to work fine on it, one or two are a bit loose fitting.
 
Are you referring to the drip tip on the engine nano? All mine seem to work fine on it, one or two are a bit loose fitting.

Mine wobbles a bit. Going to wrap some thread tape around it. Its also not a standard size (or I dont know what other driptips are compatible with it - definitely not 510 as I would have loved to use my Petri tips)
 
My hands drip tips fit snugly, haven't tried my Petri tip as yet

But not to derail the thread. I would also love manufacturers to put in the effort to make their 510's hybrid safe
 
On most tanks and drippers...I would love some way of adjusting so that the damn logo faces the front of the mod!My Goon has the logo facing to the side,and my SM25 has the writing at the back...And this just kills my OCD infected peanut of a brain!


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On most tanks and drippers...I would love some way of adjusting so that the damn logo faces the front of the mod!My Goon has the logo facing to the side,and my SM25 has the writing at the back...And this just kills my OCD infected peanut of a brain!


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I definitely agree with this!!
I use my Goon on the Minikin V1.5 and the logo faces to the side which means the airflow kinda points to the back of the mod and after a few puffs the top of the mod gets wet from all the vapour I hate that!.

Sometimes I adjust it so the logo faces the front but just to see how awesome it looks lol!


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I definitely agree with this!!
I use my Goon on the Minikin V1.5 and the logo faces to the side which means the airflow kinda points to the back of the mod and after a few puffs the top of the mod gets wet from all the vapour I hate that!.

Sometimes I adjust it so the logo faces the front but just to see how awesome it looks lol!


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Im a bearded fella,my Goon airflow points at my beard,means my beard gets soaked


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I am writing this post for us to share our views as to what we think new RTA's and RDA's should have, and / or, not have — to improve our vaping pleasure.

Perhaps a few of the creators of these, mostly ingenious, tanks will by some stroke of good fortune, stumble upon this and similar posts. A "butterfly effect" may ensue and benefit us all in the long run. It's also cool to learn what features others like or dislike.

Here is my take:

When it comes to cloud production, vape density, flavor, airflow, juice flow control, aesthetics and small **** syndrome, it is all subjective in the world of vaping. However, there are certain aspects of RTA's that may be improved on if viewed objectively.

Less glass, more metal

I don't know about you, but I try to buy for keeps. I love quality, clever and practical manufacturing. I almost have a renal shut-down whenever I break the glass section of tanks.

So, you spend a (close to) grand on a tank, you love it, but clumsily break both glasses before the o-rings even wear out. It happens! A year later — the tank was never a winner, it is out of commercial circulation and you are stuck with a useless, glassless tank.

I want glass-less tanks that are made out of mainly steel, e.g. The Medusa 25mm by Geekvape. (Was on my wish list but it has grub screws) I want my tanks to give me a few years after a few drops on the tiles.

Alternatively, make steel tanks with very little but thick glass windows. For example the OMNI RTA by Shado Vapor / Grimm Green. (Was on my wish list but it has grub screws) It is highly unlikely that this small compact glass will break.

No more weeny little grub screws

I have moaned about this in a few threads here, I know, but seriously guys: These tiny, unpractical, finicky grub screws strip so easily. It's high time that manufacturers did away with grub screws completely or they heat treat them with super strong titanium or something. It is so hard to get spares. Give us proper, reasonably strong, biggish Phillips or flat head screws. The bottom Phillips screws on my Tornado Hero are also ridiculously small, and can also strip.

More screws

We need more screws in the spares baggie. One set is not enough. Not only do they wear over time but they fall down the drain when washing sometimes, they drop and bounce away into infinity on the floor, or get mis placed. Companies should take a leaf out of the Authentic Desire Mad Dog RDA, who included 8 spare in 4 different styled spare screws, i.e. variations of flat head and Phillips head.

Instruction leaflets

Tanks should be and are probably tested before manufacture. Some folk get leaks, battle with builds, use the wrong wire, use too much or too little cotton, and end up hating the tank. An instruction manual will every helpful especially with tanks that bear eloquent features. We shouldn't have to "You Tube" the correct way to coil and wick our new tanks. A good example is The Proto RTA by Sub-Ohm Innovations. This tank initially leaks – period! However if you wick it right, it won't. But at least they printed a user manual and actually warned us that if you wick it wrong, it will leak. Then they explain the correct way to wick, resulting in no leaks. It took me many hours of frustration and You Tubing to learn how to properly coil and wick my at first, very leaky; Aramomamizer Supreme.

Leaking

This has to be the biggest mood killer. Why do some tanks leak in my brief case, and others don't? We live in a portable world, we travel, we need non-leaking tanks, for goodness sakes! Please RTA creators, work on this aspect. I don't have the answers, I am only a consumer, but we need some more ingenuity here.

Juice filling holes

These need to be as big as possible. Some are so small that a syringe is required to avoid spillage.

510 pins

Why not just make all 510 pins protrude sufficiently so as to safely accommodate hybrid Mech mod enthusiasts? This will prevent nasty vaping accidents that give vaping a bad reputation.

Vaping evolution

I must admit, there are amazing and already big, rapid improvements — ones that I have observed in only just over a year, but how about you? What gets your goat? What improvements would you like to see? What must go, and what must stay?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Though all the points you made are valid,you just redesigned that 1grand tank into a 1and a half grand one.It is all about the cash to these companies and as long as people continue to buy them (and plenty do) they will make them as cheap as possible.It isn't just the material but now they must retool and redesign adding to the cost and cutting profit.Many reviewers make recommendations that the public watching their videos comment on.Somtimes they listen but more often they don't.Ask Rob Fisher,even H.E. tanks have room for improvement.Just my 2 cents.
 
Im a bearded fella,my Goon airflow points at my beard,means my beard gets soaked


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Well then that's a plus, no beard oil needed. Your beard must be smelling like Raspberry Slushee all the time


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When it comes to tanks I'd like to see a bit more space between the chamber and the glass. When I've been tooting away a bit I find myself twisting the tank back and forth trying to coax bubbles to rise and get the wicking going again. Or at least slope the juice ports so that bubbles can escape more easily.

The Merlin mini is a prime culprit - it has a lip that the bubbles need to get over and sometimes I end up shaking the tank vigorously trying to free them.
 
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