Coils with benefits?

[Nightwalker]

So looking at my dual 26g Claptons in my Crius attached to my RX200 while vaping the surprisingly epic ijust2 tank and mod... It dawns on me.
Why did I do Claptons? Why not single coil wraps? Why did I space the Claptons and not compress them? I watched YouTube and that's what's "the best" but why?
So fellow vapernouts, if you see my plea through the clouds you making, please do tell me.. What are the benefits?

Spaced coils vs compressed, snug coils and..

Claptons vs single coils

 

[KimVapeDashian]

So looking at my dual 26g Claptons in my Crius attached to my RX200 while vaping the surprisingly epic ijust2 tank and mod... It dawns on me.
Why did I do Claptons? Why not single coil wraps? Why did I space the Claptons and not compress them? I watched YouTube and that's what's "the best" but why?
So fellow vapernouts, if you see my plea through the clouds you making, please do tell me.. What are the benefits?

Spaced coils vs compressed, snug coils and..

Claptons vs single coils

Clapton wire, has a larger surface area for your eliquid to perform on - the theory, is that the juice even gets into the claptoned "wraps" to deliver even more flavour.

In terms of compressed vs spaced coils - i generally compress my claptoned kanthal wires, and use my SS spaced (SS for me, gets hot spots like there is no tomorrow, when compressed and takes longer to iron them out)

 

[Sk3tz0]

If I may add a few Questions to this..

Whats the actual Difference between the Nickle , Stainless Steel and Titanium wires, I've never build my own coils, but if i do what do i go for. ? do u tight wrap do u space them a bit when is too much space too much.

EDIT: What about Wraps when is too many wraps too much and when is too little not enough?

 

[KimVapeDashian]

If I may add a few Questions to this..

Whats the actual Difference between the Nickle , Stainless Steel and Titanium wires, I've never build my own coils, but if i do what do i go for. ? do u tight wrap do u space them a bit when is too much space too much.

Basically, wires like Titanium, stainless steel and Nickle are used in temperature control setups.

The reason for this, is that these wires each have a change in resistance when fired, that can be correlated to a change in temperature.

Kanthal does not have a measurable change in resistance, therefore ineffective for Temp control.

however, i do believe that because the TCR of Stainless steel is so low, that it can also be used in "Wattage mode" like regular Kanthal.

*There are larger risks of metal oxides, using nickel/titanium/stainless - however, there are very mixed opinions on it. I started using SS 316 this week for Temp Control, and absolutely LOVE it...

 

[KimVapeDashian]

If I may add a few Questions to this..

Whats the actual Difference between the Nickle , Stainless Steel and Titanium wires, I've never build my own coils, but if i do what do i go for. ? do u tight wrap do u space them a bit when is too much space too much.

Start off with regular Kanthal, to get into the building vibe - the number of wraps, completely depends on what gauge wire you are using, what your target resistance is, and what inner diameter you are wrapping around. I find 24 Gauge Kanthal, a nice gauge to get building on - 2.5mm inner diameter with 4 to 6 wraps using duel coils (a single coils resistance, will be halved when adding the same coil into your tank in duel mode).

 

[Lingogrey]

If I may add a few Questions to this..

Whats the actual Difference between the Nickle , Stainless Steel and Titanium wires, I've never build my own coils, but if i do what do i go for. ? do u tight wrap do u space them a bit when is too much space too much.

Nickel and Titanium can only be used for temperature control and never in VW devices only. Stainless Steel (comes in different grades, but 316l is the most common and readily available) can be used in VW mode with any device or in temp control, but only in devices that support TC for stainless or where you can set the TCR (temperature co-efficient of resistance) manually (these would include amongst others all DNA200 mods, the Reuleaux RX200, the Joyetech Evic VTC Mini, the Yihi SX Mini M class, the Koopor 200w).

Nickel is very soft and difficult to work with (for me at least) and you have to do spaced coils, which can also be more tricky than contact coils. There are some health concerns with Nickel, which is debatable and like anything else can be blown out of proportion. However, personally I avoid them because long before vaping I was aware that one should avoid nickel in toiletries etc. and mostly because it's such a schlep to work with. Titanium also presents a potential health concern, which is the possible inhalation of Titanium Dioxide. However, from the information that I have seen it seems as if this would only really be a potential concern when dry burning Titanium at higher temperatures. One should never dry burn nickel or titanium, although some say that you could very gently 'dry heat' titanium at very short pulses between 7-10 w. I have done this numerous times and have never had any Titanium Dioxide forming (you can actually see this as a white powder). Titanium could also arguably be wrapped as contact coils, although some say that it has to be spaced like nickel as well (generally related to your stance on whether titanium can be dry heated to get out hot spots or not). I do mine as contact coils with the dry heating and it seems to work just fine. Although very springy, it is not nearly as difficult to work with as nickel (not as soft).

I will only be receiving my stainless steel wire shortly, but from what I've read on this forum and elsewhere it is pretty much as easy to work with as Kanthal. You can wrap this as contact coils and dry burn to get out hot spots, like you would with Kanthal.

I would thus think that if you get into rebuilding and if you have a mod capable of SS TC, Kanthal (only standard VW mode) and Stainless Steel would be the best wires to start off with. Personally, I find 24 AWG and 26 AWG the easiest to work with, but this would also depend on your build deck and which resistances you're aiming for.

Hope that helps a bit

Edit: Sorry, I just saw @KimVapeDashian 's post - I also agree with what he said

 

[Andre]

I only do compressed coils. They are the most effective. Claptons and the like are works of art, but for me the possible benefit it not worth the trouble.

 

[Sk3tz0]

Nickel and Titanium can only be used for temperature control and never in VW devices only. Stainless Steel (comes in different grades, but 316l is the most common and readily available) can be used in VW mode with any device or in temp control, but only in devices that support TC for stainless or where you can set the TCR (temperature co-efficient of resistance) manually (these would include amongst others all DNA200 mods, the Reuleaux RX200, the Joyetech Evic VTC Mini, the Yihi SX Mini M class, the Koopor 200w).

Nickel is very soft and difficult to work with (for me at least) and you have to do spaced coils, which can also be more tricky than contact coils. There are some health concerns with Nickel, which is debatable and like anything else can be blown out of proportion. However, personally I avoid them because long before vaping I was aware that one should avoid nickel in toiletries etc. and mostly because it's such a schlep to work with. Titanium also presents a potential health concern, which is the possible inhalation of Titanium Dioxide. However, from the information that I have seen it seems as if this would only really be a potential concern when dry burning Titanium at higher temperatures. One should never dry burn nickel or titanium, although some say that you could very gently 'dry heat' titanium at very short pulses between 7-10 w. I have done this numerous times and have never had any Titanium Dioxide forming (you can actually see this as a white powder). Titanium could also arguably be wrapped as contact coils, although some say that it has to be spaced like nickel as well (generally related to your stance on whether titanium can be dry heated to get out hot spots or not). I do mine as contact coils with the dry heating and it seems to work just fine. Although very springy, it is not nearly as difficult to work with as nickel (not as soft).

I will only be receiving my stainless steel wire shortly, but from what I've read on this forum and elsewhere it is pretty much as easy to work with as Kanthal. You can wrap this as contact coils and dry burn to get out hot spots, like you would with Kanthal.

I would thus think that if you get into rebuilding and if you have a mod capable of SS TC, Kanthal (only standard VW mode) and Stainless Steel would be the best wires to start off with. Personally, I find 24 AWG and 26 AWG the easiest to work with, but this would also depend on your build deck and which resistances you're aiming for.

Hope that helps a bit

Edit: Sorry, I just saw @KimVapeDashian 's post - I also agree with what he said

Got a Smok X Cube Mini, Apparently this thing is TEmp Controlled and Watt Mode, I only use Watt Mode. it supports all three but as you say if Everybody uses the SS why be different. Thanks for Info )

 

[Nimatek]

Just check on Smok's website to see if the X Cube supports SS, this is a newer development and not all mods support it.

I like SS because I don't taste the metal like I do with Ti or Ni. It is as easy to use as kanthal and doesn't break as easily as Ni.

When using claptons I use compressed coils, easier to work out hot spots. SS is usually spaced as I almost always get a perfect dual coil everytime now, so just install and fire up to ensure the 2 coils heat up evenly, then wick. Simple and easy

 

[Nightwalker]

Bump