Samsung 25R 0.1ohm safe?

StangV2_0

Experienced Vaper
LV
35
 
Joined
12/6/14
Posts
182
Awards
16
Age
43
Location
Port Elizabeth, Eastern Cape, South Africa
Now I dont mean to ask obvious questions to what Ialready know. Just a quick question.

I been mech modding for a loooong time. But this is the first time I am a little concerned. Well just a tad..

Been playing with Clapton coils today. Built a 3 roll eahside dual coil.

Now I have always used a multi meter to check my coils. Resistance in my leads is 0.3. I am getting a 0.4 reading. So I am on at least 0.1ohm. H-Priv dont want to fire it at all. Obviously fires great in mech mod.

Thoughts?

Oh ya.. battery is Samsung 25R. Also have a Vtc5 i can use.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Hi Stang, I'm not an expert but I don't thing thats safe as the 25R is only 20amps (actual) and 0.1ohm is more than 25amp if I got that correct.

Maybe someone with more knowledge on this can confirm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here you go guys, Mooch battery chart. Remember safety first! Always check your build on a ohm meter or a regulated mod before firing on a mech

12563d50882811163cfe83f0300f56d8.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk
 
Correct @Quakes

0.23ish build on a mech is my sweet spot. Single "fancy" coil rocks on a mech such as a fused staged Clapton or similar. Otherwise dual 24g works like a charm as well

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk
 
Hi @StangV2_0
That doesnt sound safe to me
0.1 ohms on a fresh battery (4.2V) is 42 amps!
(i = V / R)

The Samsung 25R is rated as a max continuous draw of 20 amps
So you are drawing more than double
I would advise against that

Rather stay safe at about 0.3 ohms or above in my view
 
I use 0.25 on my mech (dual 24g) and vapes great. @stang please be safe, rather use single like Chris mentioned. Safety ALWAYS first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Remember you need to build in a bit of a safety margin
Because the multimeters and ohm readers are not always accurate and the batteries are not all created equal.
 
I am a little confused by your op. If you are asking about your h-priv, then 0.1 ohms has no direct baring on amp draw. Resistence on a regulated mod has no effect on amp draw directly. Amp draw on a regulated mod is your calculated by your wattage divided by your lowest voltage level. The coil is connected to your chip. The Hpriv could not be firing for several reasons, heat is bringing the resistence down below 0.1 which is the lower limit on the priv, or there is a short in your atty messing with the resistence readings. TBH there is no real reason to fire a 0.1 ohm coil in a regulated mod unless its a fancy staple or something that needs a lot of little wires in its core structure.

If youre asking about firing this coil in a mech I think everyone has already given you an answer.
 
I don't do mech mods at all so I don't know if this is accurate or worthwhile following, but I found this thread to be quite informative.

Thanks @RichJB - that was very interesting
The inaccuray I think becomes a problem at the very low ohms

I typically build at around the 0.5 to 0.9 ohm range so I have usually found no problem with my little dedicated ohm reader. Well i probably wouldnt know because I dont have something accurate to compare it to - but i havent had any venting or melting of the hot spring on the Reo as a result of a coil inaccurately read on the device.

For the really low ohm folk, i suppose its a different story.
 
Yeah I think I had already made my mind up before even posting. Fires well in the Mech and batt not getting hot.

But the fact that I am a bit nervous about it is a good thing I guess.

Just took so dam long to make that coil! :(

Well ill do it again but with 4 wraps each side this time instead of 3.

A pic.. this was after I fired it, put it down and picked up camera. Was still cooling down when I took the pic.

5a180be73c0c1c1c85e85d0bdba6eb9a.jpg


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Yeah I think I had already made my mind up before even posting. Fires well in the Mech and batt not getting hot.

But the fact that I am a bit nervous about it is a good thing I guess.

Just took so dam long to make that coil! :(

Well ill do it again but with 4 wraps each side this time instead of 3.

A pic.. this was after I fired it, put it down and picked up camera. Was still cooling down when I took the pic.

5a180be73c0c1c1c85e85d0bdba6eb9a.jpg


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Only three wraps a side... This build would have ripped your throat out, kicked like a mule no doubt. But just don't run it.
 
Your battery life will shorten and tube mechs are essentially a pipe bomb.

Get a dual battery mechanical mod.
 
Only three wraps a side... This build would have ripped your throat out, kicked like a mule no doubt. But just don't run it.
Agreed. Gonna go 4 a side. First time playing with clapton wire. Loving it so far.

Got a nice clapton dual coil going in my Avo 24 which is awesome!

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Already got one. Its boring.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
lol because it's safer?. I hope that beast doesn't fire in your pocket but I'd like to see the hot pocket dance. Also the put down and stand back when you think it's going to explode :)
 
lol because it's safer?. I hope that beast doesn't fire in your pocket but I'd like to see the hot pocket dance. Also the put down and stand back when you think it's going to explode :)
Na I dont keep a mech in my pocket.

Jokes aside now.

Love my mechs but no ways I am going to chance this build. Will post follow up build ;)

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Ok so I made it 4 wraps a side and its now at a far more respectable 0.15ohm.

However its far to wild for the copper mod. So its on the Stainless Nemesis. Working great!!

And on a side note here..

I tried the Avo 24 on the Copper mech. Wow! Awesome vape. If anyone reading this has an Avo and a mech lying around give it a try.



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Ok so I made it 4 wraps a side and its now at a far more respectable 0.15ohm.

However its far to wild for the copper mod. So its on the Stainless Nemesis. Working great!!

And on a side note here..

I tried the Avo 24 on the Copper mech. Wow! Awesome vape. If anyone reading this has an Avo and a mech lying around give it a try.



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Anything below .25 on a Clapton is going to cause a LOT of big pops and spits... Watch out for Clapton Tongue there Sir. Try build for .3 ohm and see if you REALLY want it much hotter before reducing wraps. My standard Clapton build is 7 wraps 2.5mm ID
 
Anything below .25 on a Clapton is going to cause a LOT of big pops and spits... Watch out for Clapton Tongue there Sir. Try build for .3 ohm and see if you REALLY want it much hotter before reducing wraps. My standard Clapton build is 7 wraps 2.5mm ID
I'll keep that in mind. Working great so far though

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
I've been checking out the specs for my Pico 75w and I noticed that it's rated for 0.1ohm coils in VW mode. They have new 0.18 ohm coils and at 75w ohm's law says it's 20.41 amps.

Surely this is pushing the limits a bit? Or am I missing something about regulated mods. Will the 0.18 ohm coil be safe to use at high wattages with a Samsung 25R?
 
I've been checking out the specs for my Pico 75w and I noticed that it's rated for 0.1ohm coils in VW mode. They have new 0.18 ohm coils and at 75w ohm's law says it's 20.41 amps.

Surely this is pushing the limits a bit? Or am I missing something about regulated mods. Will the 0.18 ohm coil be safe to use at high wattages with a Samsung 25R?
Regulated mods 'Pulse' at high wattage meaning the current is not constant, adjusting a number of times per second. This is why some mods kick harder than other mods, it is all about how the chip handles this regulating function. You can also FEEL the difference in how batteries respond. A Cuboid at 120 watts goes pretty warm pretty fast and you can feel the batteries are warm. Not so a Koopor, stays nice and cool but it does'not kick nearly as hard as a Cuboid does. This is the reason NOTHING kicks like a DNA chip on a LiPo battery.
 
Regulated mods 'Pulse' at high wattage meaning the current is not constant, adjusting a number of times per second. This is why some mods kick harder than other mods, it is all about how the chip handles this regulating function. You can also FEEL the difference in how batteries respond. A Cuboid at 120 watts goes pretty warm pretty fast and you can feel the batteries are warm. Not so a Koopor, stays nice and cool but it does'not kick nearly as hard as a Cuboid does. This is the reason NOTHING kicks like a DNA chip on a LiPo battery.
Wow. That is really interesting. Thanks for the education!!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top