Understanding ohms om rta coil build

HvNDhF

Experienced Vaper
LV
12
 
Joined
21/8/17
Posts
168
Awards
15
Age
35
Location
Boksburg
Hi everyone. Maybe someone can help me. Recently got into rta's and bought a ammit 25 at vapecon and a dit v3 coil master kit. Now I have managed to succesfully use premade coils and wick without leaking or dry hits. But my question is when I build my own coils.
As I am looking for flavor more than clouds I approached a local vape shop and the guy sold me nichrome 80, 26gauge. He also said that I should try and get my coils to between 0.2 and 0.3 ohms.
When using steam engine calculator the amount of wraps is so little that the coil is very small using a 3mm inner diameter.
The premade coils are triple the size and reading at 0.25 ohms....

Am I doing something wrong as the coils seems so small it does not even cover the airholes on the ammit 25.

Any help or advice would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Hi everyone. Maybe someone can help me. Recently got into rta's and bought a ammit 25 at vapecon and a dit v3 coil master kit. Now I have managed to succesfully use premade coils and wick without leaking or dry hits. But my question is when I build my own coils.
As I am looking for flavor more than clouds I approached a local vape shop and the guy sold me nichrome 80, 26gauge. He also said that I should try and get my coils to between 0.2 and 0.3 ohms.
When using steam engine calculator the amount of wraps is so little that the coil is very small using a 3mm inner diameter.
The premade coils are triple the size and reading at 0.25 ohms....

Am I doing something wrong as the coils seems so small it does not even cover the airholes on the ammit 25.

Any help or advice would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Yip, I checked it out and you get about 3 wraps which hardly qualifies as a coil...

Personally I do not have any NI80 experience as I fell in love with SS316 before I managed to get to the "other" side of the street. It does seem that many people are under the impression that Ohms, specifically low ohms, are the bees knees. Actually its wattage and the amount of wattage transferred to the juice in the wick that matters.

Therefore what really matters is that most of your power (watts) is used to heat juice and not metal and therefore in turn how much of the metal in your coil is in direct contact with your wick. Spread your power over too little wick and you get dry hits before you get a decent cloud. Spread it over too much and you drain your bats before a cloud is seen.

As mentioned I can not comment on NI80 but seeing no one else is responding, I will relate my experience on SS316L to you. Having done low ohm's, high ohm's, thick wire, thin wire over about a year trying to find the "best" I have eventually settled on 24 AWG at an ID of between 3 and 3.5mm with 8 to 10 closely spaced winds as personal standard. Running between 4.6 to 5.3 ohm's I get plenty of wick exposure and decent battery life in one tried and tested package.

So the moral of the story is to play around and experiment for each of us will have his own happy place and mine may in fact not be the same as yours.

In terms of your pre-made coils, see if you can get the same wire type and gauge and play around with that as a start. Experimenting and trying different things is all part of the fun.

Good Luck and Regards

Edit: Note to self, read posts before posting, that should be 0.46 to 0.53 ohms.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum @HvNDhF could i possibly kindly ask that you introduce yourself to us when you get the time in the following thread as i cant find yours.

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/introduce-yourselves.t24/

Now to help answer your question.
If you look at the 2 pictures at the bottom of this post you will see i have done to builds of the exact same wraps and ID's. The wires used are as you said you are currently using and it shows a difference of about 0.18 ohms on the same length of wire used. What this tells me and i learned this way back when i was still at school the different wire materials(kanthal, nichrome 80, stainless steel 316 and lots more available) and gauges (thicknesses) has different resistance reading compared to each other. Their is nothing strange abut this it is just the chemical properties that either restrict or free flow the current through the coil at different ohm readings.

I hope this makes sense to you and if not you are welcome to PM me and i will try and explain better.

IMG_5278.PNG IMG_5279.PNG
 
Yip, I checked it out and you get about 3 wraps which hardly qualifies as a coil...

Personally I do not have any NI80 experience as I fell in love with SS316 before I managed to get to the "other" side of the street. It does seem that many people are under the impression that Ohms, specifically low ohms, are the bees knees. Actually its wattage and the amount of wattage transferred to the juice in the wick that matters.

Therefore what really matters is that most of your power (watts) is used to heat juice and not metal and therefore in turn how much of the metal in your coil is in direct contact with your wick. Spread your power over too little wick and you get dry hits before you get a decent cloud. Spread it over too much and you drain your bats before a cloud is seen.

As mentioned I can not comment on NI80 but seeing, no one else is responding, I will relate my experience on SS316L to you. Having done low ohm's, high ohm's, thick wire, thin wire over about a year trying to find the "best" I have eventually settled on 24 AWG at an ID of between 3 and 3.5mm with 8 to 10 closely spaced winds as personal standard. Running between 4.6 to 5.3 ohm's I get plenty of wick exposure and decent battery life in one tried and tested package.

So the moral of the story is to play around and experiment for each of us will have his own happy place and mine may in fact not be the same as yours.

In terms of you pre-made coils, see if you can get the same wire type and gauge and play around with that as a start. Experimenting and trying different thins is all part of the fun.

Good Luck and Regards

Edit: Note to self, read posts before posting, that should be 0.46 to 0.53 ohms.
@Raindance thank you for you reply.

You say you are running 4.6 and 5.3?

If my mods have a resistance range between 0.05 and 3 ohm, then I am correct in saying that I should keep my coil in between those ranges?

Using a Smok Alien and Revenger (Revenger goes up to 5 ohms?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
PS also remember that the different wires produce a different flavors to each person vaping. I would suggest that you maybe for a start experiment with a single wire(kanthal A1 @ 26AWG) in how many wraps(3 - 6 wraps) you do and ID(2mm to 3,5mm) changes. Then when you find your sweet spot for flavor you could start using different wire gauges and types. so that you have a sweet spot kick off profile. Then you will start tasting the differences in wire and wicks will also have an effect on this.

Good luck with your vaping and Sorry but this hole is deep and we will gladly help you over the edge of the cliff. :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
@Raindance thank you for you reply.

You say you are running 4.6 and 5.3?

If my mods have a resistance range between 0.05 and 3 ohm, then I am correct in saying that I should keep my coil in between those ranges?

Using a Smok Alien and Revenger (Revenger goes up to 5 ohms?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Hi @HvNDhF , saw my error post posting and you are right, should read 0.46 to 0.53.

Apologies on that.

Regards
 
PS also remember that the different wires produce a different flavors to each person vaping. I would suggest that you maybe for a start experiment with a single wire(kanthal A1 @ 26AWG) in how many wraps(3 - 6 wraps) you do and ID(2mm to 3,5mm) changes. Then when you find your sweet spot for flavor you could start using different wire gauges and types. so that you have a sweet spot kick off profile. Then you will start tasting the differences in wire and wicks will also have an effect on this.

Good luck with your vaping and Sorry but this hole is deep and we will gladly help you over the edge of the cliff. :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
Thanks you for this. I was just concerned with the whole ohm thing. Because the guy at the shop said keep it in that range but then I hardly have a coil.

I also introduced myself as suggested.

Thank You

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks you for this. I was just concerned with the whole ohm thing. Because the guy at the shop said keep it in that range but then I hardly have a coil.

I also introduced myself as suggested.

Thank You

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I would suggest you (youtube) some Ohms law videos to help you in your coil building and to better understand what the difference is between a regulated mod and a mechanical mod. I made sure i understand ohms law first and battery safety before i started rebuilding as i was warned of exploding batteries and i did not want to be a facebook statistic.

Regulated devices are a very good all rounder
Mechanical devices are hard hitters and if not properly understood can be dangerous.

What it boils down to is to ensure that your coil amps required are always running below your maximum discharging rate of the battery amps in your device.
 
Will do for sure. Dont want my teeth blown out because I didnt do proper research.
Also using regulated mods only.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
@Raindance thank you for you reply.

You say you are running 4.6 and 5.3?

If my mods have a resistance range between 0.05 and 3 ohm, then I am correct in saying that I should keep my coil in between those ranges?

Using a Smok Alien and Revenger (Revenger goes up to 5 ohms?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
As @antonherbst mentions, this is indeed a rabbit hole and the options are countless.

If your resistance is to high and your mod does not deliver adequate voltage to "bridge" it, you should receive a warning on screen and the mod will not fire.

For general use anywhere between 0.1 to 2 ohms should do depending on wire and type of vape. over 1 ohm seems more suitable for mouth to lung vaping where the lower rages are more popular for direct lung hitters. Serious cloud chasers in terms seem to seek out the extreme ranges below 0.1 ohms.

As mentioned, there is no real right or wrong. Just be warned the lower the resistance, the more amps are drawn and if that amp draw exceeds the battery safety limits, it could be very dangerous, even on regulated mods. I myself stick to over 0.25 ohms just to ensure I stay on the safe side.

Regards
 
Will for sure do not want to push my batteries limits. Rather safe than sorry

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Hi everyone. Maybe someone can help me. Recently got into rta's and bought a ammit 25 at vapecon and a dit v3 coil master kit. Now I have managed to succesfully use premade coils and wick without leaking or dry hits. But my question is when I build my own coils.
As I am looking for flavor more than clouds I approached a local vape shop and the guy sold me nichrome 80, 26gauge. He also said that I should try and get my coils to between 0.2 and 0.3 ohms.
When using steam engine calculator the amount of wraps is so little that the coil is very small using a 3mm inner diameter.
The premade coils are triple the size and reading at 0.25 ohms....

Am I doing something wrong as the coils seems so small it does not even cover the airholes on the ammit 25.

Any help or advice would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
wrap the 26g in parallel. 5 to 6 wraps should get you a decent coil between you ohm range.
If you have a coil jig. take a piece of wire fold it in half. there a few YouTube video that can help better than I can explain it. turn the coils anti clockwise to get it to fit with the coil facing down.
 
wrap the 26g in parallel. 5 to 6 wraps should get you a decent coil between you ohm range.
If you have a coil jig. take a piece of wire fold it in half. there a few YouTube video that can help better than I can explain it. turn the coils anti clockwise to get it to fit with the coil facing down.
Wow, thank you did the calculation quick and it does reduced the ohms due to being parallel.

Didnt think of that.

Thank you

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top