# General noob questions



## wiesbang

I didn't want to open a thread for every question so I though it might be a good idea to have one of these if there isn't one already.


First question 

The tank that comes with the evic vtc mini will it work on my istick 30w mod?


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> I didn't want to open a thread for every question so I though it might be a good idea to have one of these if there isn't one already.
> 
> 
> First question
> 
> The tank that comes with the evic vtc mini will it work on my istick 30w mod?


Yes it should work.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kuhlkatz

The stock coils with the VTC mini is a Titanium and a Nickel coil and most of the replacements are the same. These are intended for use with temperature control devices, so please do not try them on the iStick.
If you can get your hands on the Ego One CLR coils that are 0.5 ohms or 1.0 ohms Kanthal, they should work fine. As far as I know the CLRs are rebuildable too.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## wiesbang

Awesome thanx guys


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## Nimatek

@Kuhlkatz raises a good point here, don't use the standard coils that comes with that tank as is. They are meant for Temp Control devices and should not be fired in Power mode. But if you can get the kanthal coils, that will work perfectly on the iStick. I would opt for the 1.0 ohm coil to start with. Just make sure it is the *Kanthal *coil

Reactions: Like 2


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## wiesbang

These ones?
It doesn't say what its made of though


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> These ones?
> It doesn't say what its made of though


Yes that's the one

Reactions: Like 1


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## wiesbang

Coil looks the same as the one that came with my v8 tank


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> Coil looks the same as the one that came with my v8 tank


If you like a more free flow draw take the 0.5 ohm. Rather buy 2 of the 1 ohm and 0.5ohm and see which coil suits your vaping style

Reactions: Like 1


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## Heino13

What setting do you use on ti temp control on vtc mini?
I am currently on 245 Celsius and 18,4 watt


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## daniel craig

It all depends on the type of vape you prefer, I like a warm vape so I use it at higher temperatures but if you prefer cooler vape than use it at lower temperature


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## daniel craig

And with regards to wattage, the higher your wattage, the faster it will reach your set temperature.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Wyvern

Heino13 said:


> What setting do you use on ti temp control on vtc mini?
> I am currently on 245 Celsius and 18,4 watt


It all depends on the coil - on the one my brother built for me, I am on 0.22oh SS, I have it at 30W and my temp ranges from 460 - 500 F.


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## Heino13

What is the cracking and poping when it hits desired Temprature?


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## daniel craig

Heino13 said:


> What is the cracking and poping when it hits desired Temprature?


The noise from the coil? That will be the liquid heating.


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## Nimatek

Yup don't worry about that at all. 
If you get juice spitting, raise the wattage a little. 

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


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## Silver

Good thread @wiesbang

Reactions: Like 3


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## Heino13

How long wil a ti coil last?
Weeks? Number of puffs? Taste?

I vaped between 250 and 260c in my car

And when got back in car there was this burnt smell. Smelling the drip tip there is also a burnt smell. Did the cotton burn?


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## wiesbang

As far as I have read there is no set time for a coil it all depends on your settings and the juice pg/vg you use


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## Wyvern

Heino13 said:


> How long wil a ti coil last?
> Weeks? Number of puffs? Taste?
> 
> I vaped between 250 and 260c in my car
> 
> And when got back in car there was this burnt smell. Smelling the drip tip there is also a burnt smell. Did the cotton burn?


If it is a stock coil you can try throw it in some vodka overnight. Then let it dry out in the sun - aka it has to be nice and dry before using. The stock coils can last a week or 2 or 3 all depending on your usage and what you are vaping.


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## Marius Combrink

Heino13 said:


> How long wil a ti coil last?
> Weeks? Number of puffs? Taste?
> 
> I vaped between 250 and 260c in my car
> 
> And when got back in car there was this burnt smell. Smelling the drip tip there is also a burnt smell. Did the cotton burn?


The coil will last long if its a built coul. The wicking needs to be replaced regularly. Daily if possible


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## wiesbang

I need to ask someone experienced (and discreet) a vaping/medical related question.

Don't want to post on a public forum.... no it is not 18+ lol


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## Andre

wiesbang said:


> I need to ask someone experienced (and discreet) a vaping/medical related question.
> 
> Don't want to post on a public forum.... no it is not 18+ lol


PM @Silver, he is very experienced and extremely discreet.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

wiesbang said:


> I need to ask someone experienced (and discreet) a vaping/medical related question.
> 
> Don't want to post on a public forum.... no it is not 18+ lol


Dont post a message on their profile, that appears on th efront page for all to see.
The PM function is on the top right Inbox Tab (start a new conversation) and then type the users name in the _to_ box


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## Cespian

Noob Question (well not sure if it's really a noob question though, but redirect me if need be):

Not sure if the hype has died out already but what are the actual advantages of using Clapton coils (besides for it looking damn sexy)? 

I've not used it in any of my personal devices, however, I did try it on a buddy's setup (Dual Clapton on Plume Veil V1 Clone with Sigelei 150watt running at 62watts and a Dual Clapton on Atty Cubed on same MOD and wattage) and I have honestly had a similar experience using a dual micro coil build on a Subtank mini on an iStick TC40W. The ramp up time was too long, hence only got a decent hit on the second pull, I have achieved better vapour production using single coil builds with a cotton cloud and the flavour was not spectacularly different. I can somewhat understand a fused Clapton (because juice can channel in there as well). 

Would appreciate any advice before putting in the PT to build these for myself (My devices list: Kanger Subtank Mini, Plume Veil Clone, Atty Cubed, SMOK X CUBE 2, eLeaf iStick TC40W, [Kooper Plus end of the month hopefully])

Thanks


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## daniel craig

Cespian said:


> Noob Question (well not sure if it's really a noob question though, but redirect me if need be):
> 
> Not sure if the hype has died out already but what are the actual advantages of using Clapton coils (besides for it looking damn sexy)?
> 
> I've not used it in any of my personal devices, however, I did try it on a buddy's setup (Dual Clapton on Plume Veil V1 Clone with Sigelei 150watt running at 62watts and a Dual Clapton on Atty Cubed on same MOD and wattage) and I have honestly had a similar experience using a dual micro coil build on a Subtank mini on an iStick TC40W. The ramp up time was too long, hence only got a decent hit on the second pull, I have achieved better vapour production using single coil builds with a cotton cloud and the flavour was not spectacularly different. I can somewhat understand a fused Clapton (because juice can channel in there as well).
> 
> Would appreciate any advice before putting in the PT to build these for myself (My devices list: Kanger Subtank Mini, Plume Veil Clone, Atty Cubed, SMOK X CUBE 2, eLeaf iStick TC40W, [Kooper Plus end of the month hopefully])
> 
> Thanks


A clapton coil will give you much better flavor than a normal coil. I think it's because of its surface area, more juice soaks in so you always get a more flavorful vape than normal coils.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Cespian

daniel craig said:


> A clapton coil will give you much better flavor than a normal coil. I think it's because of its surface area, more juice soaks in so you always get a more flavorful vape than normal coils.



Thanks, but I'm sure there should be more to it than that. I mean, one can achieve larger surface area making 8 to 9 "normal" wraps and create the same resistance using different gauge wire and altering the diameters.


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## daniel craig

Cespian said:


> Thanks, but I'm sure there should be more to it than that. I mean, one can achieve larger surface area making 8 to 9 "normal" wraps and create the same resistance using different gauge wire and altering the diameters.


It's due to its capillary gaps, look at the design of the wire. The wire wrapped around the core has gaps. If you take the clapton wire and put juice on it, you'll see the juice just soaking in and going throughout the wire. With a normal coil this doesn't happen. I remember the CAT coil I had some time ago it was a 10 strand 32g core wrapped with 32g. Similar to clapton just with much more cores and lower resistance. With this coil I was washing it in the sink and when I put water on it, you could see the water running throughout the whole coil and not just through 1 place. A similar concept goes with the clapton.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Cespian

daniel craig said:


> It's due to its capillary gaps, look at the design of the wire. The wire wrapped around the core has gaps. If you take the clapton wire and put juice on it, you'll see the juice just soaking in and going throughout the wire. With a normal coil this doesn't happen. I remember the CAT coil I had some time ago it was a 10 strand 32g core wrapped with 32g. Similar to clapton just with much more cores and lower resistance. With this coil I was washing it in the sink and when I put water on it, you could see the water running throughout the whole coil and not just through 1 place. A similar concept goes with the clapton.



Makes sense. So you reckon its worth the PT then


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## daniel craig

Cespian said:


> Makes sense. So you reckon its worth the PT then


Most definitely, there's definitely a better flavor from it. If you building the wire also might wanna try out the fused clapton. Same concept just with 2 core

Reactions: Like 1


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## Cespian

daniel craig said:


> Most definitely, there's definitely a better flavor from it. If you building the wire also might wanna try out the fused clapton. Same concept just with 2 core



In that case, gonna whip out the drill tomorrow. Thanks bro.

Reactions: Like 1


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## daniel craig

Cespian said:


> In that case, gonna whip out the drill tomorrow. Thanks bro.


Let me know how it goes, and make sure there's no hot spots on the wire (wire will have some places that don't fire). Just look out for these things and you'll be good to go. 

What gauge wire are you using and which coil you building? What resistance you aiming for? What ID you going to use? What setup? Dual, single ?


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## Cespian

daniel craig said:


> Let me know how it goes, and make sure there's no hot spots on the wire (wire will have some places that don't fire). Just look out for these things and you'll be good to go.
> 
> What gauge wire are you using and which coil you building? What resistance you aiming for? What ID you going to use? What setup? Dual, single ?



Not entirely sure yet. I have Kanthal ranging from 24ga to 30ga. Might need to get 32 or 34ga for the inner. Will probably go for single first on the Atty Cubed. Not sure about resistance yet, but I doubt I will need more than 160watt (using X CUBE 2).

I think the first challenge is merely trying to make the Clapton or Fused Clapton strands (whipping out the Rip Trippers vids for some help )


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## daniel craig

Cespian said:


> Not entirely sure yet. I have Kanthal ranging from 24ga to 30ga. Might need to get 32 or 34ga for the inner. Will probably go for single first on the Atty Cubed. Not sure about resistance yet, but I doubt I will need more than 160watt (using X CUBE 2).
> 
> I think the first challenge is merely trying to make the Clapton or Fused Clapton strands (whipping out the Rip Trippers vids for some help )


Use 26g core and 32g wrapped around it. Try the clapton first. Use a 2.5mm ID aim for about 0.5 ohm... I would say 4/5 wraps. 

By the way, update your xcube 2... it'll go to 180w


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## daniel craig

And if you not sure yet about building the clapton wire, head over to www.vaperscorner.co.za and buy pre-made clapton wire. 15ft at R180 including delivery. Really nice vendor and excellent service.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Cespian

daniel craig said:


> And if you not sure yet about building the clapton wire, head over to www.vaperscorner.co.za and buy pre-made clapton wire. 15ft at R180 including delivery. Really nice vendor and excellent service.



Thanks a mil bro. Definitely going to check em out (first going to suppress my DIY burning desire lol).


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## wiesbang

What does it mean when the ustick says low atomizer?


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> What does it mean when the ustick says low atomizer?


Resistance of your coil is too low or it could be a short. Double check your build.


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## kev mac

wiesbang said:


> These ones?
> It doesn't say what its made of though


The o ring color determines the wire in the head,black= Kanthal


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## wiesbang

kev mac said:


> The o ring color determines the wire in the head,black= Kanthal


And light blue?


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## Kuhlkatz

wiesbang said:


> And light blue?



That part does not compute.. It looks like the Ni-200 CL coil, but it is 1.0 Ω.

Light blue or blue would usually indicate Ni-200, but at a much lower resistance. 
The Ni-200 coils = blue, but should be 0.2 Ω.
Titanium coils = red o-rings, and are usually 0.4 Ω.
Kanthal have black (and white it seems) o-rings, and are either 1.0 Ω, or 0.5 Ω, like these at http://www.joyetech.us/coil/ego-one-cl-head-5pcs.html

Does the mod actually show what resistance it is reading it as ?
Does it have the Joyetech logo on it like the one below ? ( Ti & Ni ones on their site has it, but it's not shown on the Kanthal one.. )

Reactions: Informative 1


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## wiesbang

Am i correct in saying the istick 30w cannot go below 0.4ohm?


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> Am i correct in saying the istick 30w cannot go below 0.4ohm?


Yes.


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## wiesbang

Ok so i need to buy coil goeters for my rda
I have the istick 30w and the turbo v1 rda.
What gauge kanthal do I get?
What dia coils will i be making?

Bluejeenz suggested 30g and 2.5mm 11wraps on dual coils for 1.5ohm per coil.

will the 30g not be to thin for a real noob like me to work with?


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## Silver

Hi @wiesbang - i am not familiar with the turbo RDA

But yes, 30g wire is quite thin and springy. It is more tricky to work with.
I would suggest perhaps go for 28g as well

Reactions: Like 1


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## Casper

@Kuhltkatz, Yes, the CLR eGo ONE coil is rebuildable. I've seen them online for around R50 - R80 each. A good deal.


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## Clouder

I would suggest the you get yourself a tank with a rebuildable deck. Every review I've seen about the VTC Mini, the guys don't like the stock tanks. So, when I ordered my VTC Mini, I ordered mine without a tank.

The DIY coils and cotton is ALLLLLLOT cheaper than buying premade coils time and time again. Also, I heard that you can rebuild the CLR coils, but its a shlep?


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## Ezekiel

Clouder said:


> I would suggest the you get yourself a tank with a rebuildable deck. Every review I've seen about the VTC Mini, the guys don't like the stock tanks. So, when I ordered my VTC Mini, I ordered mine without a tank.
> 
> The DIY coils and cotton is ALLLLLLOT cheaper than buying premade coils time and time again. Also, I heard that you can rebuild the CLR coils, but its a shlep?



I used to rebuild Twisp heads, which are not in general rebuildable... so I'm guessing the CLR coil should be a breeze. Not as easy as rebuilding an actual RBA deck, as you have to work with the exact wire size and amount of cotton, otherwise the lead wires don't sit nicely and can easily break connection. But, it is possible, it will probably just take you a few times to get it right, and even with the failed attempts will still be much cheaper than buying new coils.

Lots of great videos around for doing it!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## blujeenz

wiesbang said:


> Ok so i need to buy coil goeters for my rda
> I have the istick 30w and the turbo v1 rda.
> What gauge kanthal do I get?
> What dia coils will i be making?
> 
> Bluejeenz suggested 30g and 2.5mm 11wraps on dual coils for 1.5ohm per coil.
> 
> will the 30g not be to thin for a real noob like me to work with?



I found the thinner stuff easier to work with, but even the #28 is springy. Im not sure how many wraps will fit without touching the sides, so Im playing it safe.
#30=10 wraps=1.5 ohms
#28=16 wraps=1.5 ohms
#28=10wraps=1 ohm
Yes some folk will tell you to use 6 wraps of #26 but the batt wont last long and you be blowing clouds like crazy, in all likelyhood the ignorant will be throwing buckets of water every time you vape.
Tell you what, I'll bring some #30 and #28 and we'll make coils of both, start out using the #30 and then once time for a rebuild swop in the #28 coils.
That way you can get a good idea of batt life vs flavour.
I can tell you that the 1 ohm coil will be a warmer vape and will use juice and battery life faster than the 1.5 ohm 10 wrapped #3.
At the end of the day its a question of vape satisfaction vs rebuild annoyance and one will find their personal ratio fairly soon.


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## wiesbang

blujeenz said:


> I found the thinner stuff easier to work with, but even the #28 is springy. Im not sure how many wraps will fit without touching the sides, so Im playing it safe.
> #30=10 wraps=1.5 ohms
> #28=16 wraps=1.5 ohms
> #28=10wraps=1 ohm
> Yes some folk will tell you to use 6 wraps of #26 but the batt wont last long and you be blowing clouds like crazy, in all likelyhood the ignorant will be throwing buckets of water every time you vape.
> Tell you what, I'll bring some #30 and #28 and we'll make coils of both, start out using the #30 and then once time for a rebuild swop in the #28 coils.
> That way you can get a good idea of batt life vs flavour.
> I can tell you that the 1 ohm coil will be a warmer vape and will use juice and battery life faster than the 1.5 ohm 10 wrapped #3.
> At the end of the day its a question of vape satisfaction vs rebuild annoyance and one will find their personal ratio fairly soon.


Awesome thanx bud
I will bring along my portable battery pack just incase lol

I just placed my first vape order for some kanthal and a coil build jig from vapers corner...free shipping FTW


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## blujeenz

wiesbang said:


> Awesome thanx bud
> I will bring along my portable battery pack just incase lol
> 
> I just placed my first vape order for some kanthal and a coil build jig from vapers corner...free shipping FTW



You're on the ball, already found the free shipping online vendors.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Heino13

My eGo one mega is leaking
1st time was after about a week vaping a ti coil. Though it was age. Replaced it and was fine for a day. Took everything apart again. Put together and seems fine

Vaped all day. Left it up right on table for about 3 hours this afternoon. Tried now. And leaking again. Bleh

What tank can I get that does not leak and thats easy to fill


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## daniel craig

Heino13 said:


> My eGo one mega is leaking
> 1st time was after about a week vaping a ti coil. Though it was age. Replaced it and was fine for a day. Took everything apart again. Put together and seems fine
> 
> Vaped all day. Left it up right on table for about 3 hours this afternoon. Tried now. And leaking again. Bleh
> 
> What tank can I get that does not leak and thats easy to fill


What mod are you using ?


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## Heino13

Evic VTC mini. So the tank that came with the kit


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## daniel craig

Heino13 said:


> Evic VTC mini. So the tank that came with the kit


Is it leakinf from the airflow ?


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## Heino13

Yes it is
Is their a solution?


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## daniel craig

Heino13 said:


> Yes it is
> Is their a solution?


Check to see if the coil is tight into the Base.


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## Heino13

As if each time I check it or refill it works great for.half a.day
Then all.of.sudden after standing starts to leak


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## daniel craig

Heino13 said:


> As if each time I check it or refill it works great for.half a.day
> Then all.of.sudden after standing starts to leak


Does it gurgle?


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## Heino13

Yes 
I can hear the liquid gurgle


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## daniel craig

Heino13 said:


> Yes
> I can hear the liquid gurgle


And you get spit back also? If yes then it's a common problem with this tank. On mine it used to do the same thing. All this is due to the wick getting over saturated over a period of time. The way to solve this issue is to take off the tank, flick the coil so that the excess juice will come out and the screw on the tank. Alternatively you can hold down the fire button and let the coil burn the excess juice (only fire for short periods of time otherwise the coil will burn) 
The best way to not have this problem at all is to build coils on the CLR head. The reason is because the stock coils have very small wicking holes compared to the CLR. There's videos on YouTube thay show how to build on the CLR. It's a much better option and much more cost effective.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 2


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## shaunnadan

Heino13 said:


> Yes
> I can hear the liquid gurgle



you can also fire and blow into the drip tip and force any excess juice out of the airholes. this should work on all tanks that are gurgling

Reactions: Like 1


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## n00b13

shaunnadan said:


> you can also fire and blow into the drip tip and force any excess juice out of the airholes. this should work on all tanks that are gurgling


This made mine leak even more. Cannot recall if I fired whilst blowing though. But in the end, CLR fixed my leaking issues completely. The first stock coil that shipped with it was fine. All replacements thereafter were a mess until I bought CLR. Haven't tried recoiling yet, but rewicking is really easy. Got it right first time (unlike subtank mini)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## daniel craig

n00b13 said:


> This made mine leak even more. Cannot recall if I fired whilst blowing though. But in the end, CLR fixed my leaking issues completely. The first stock coil that shipped with it was fine. All replacements thereafter were a mess until I bought CLR. Haven't tried recoiling yet, but rewicking is really easy. Got it right first time (unlike subtank mini)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Blowing into it makes the juice that is going to leak out on the future come out (removes the excess juice)


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## n00b13

daniel craig said:


> Blowing into it makes the juice that is going to leak out on the future come out (removes the excess juice)


True, but in my case, I was just pumping the tank empty through airflow holes. Got really messy. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## shaunnadan

n00b13 said:


> True, but in my case, I was just pumping the tank empty through airflow holes. Got really messy.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



how much were you blowing through ? was it like a full lung emptying hit ? normally you just blow a tiny bit (like 2-3 seconds)


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## n00b13

shaunnadan said:


> how much were you blowing through ? was it like a full lung emptying hit ? normally you just blow a tiny bit (like 2-3 seconds)


Maybe I shouldn't answer that. Was blowing hard enough to start a bushfire 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reactions: Funny 1


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## shaunnadan

n00b13 said:


> Maybe I shouldn't answer that. Was blowing hard enough to start a bushfire
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



hahaha


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## Kuhlkatz

For gurgling, the method below is easy enough and prevents the possibility of blowing juice out the air holes or base of the coil. If you blow, air and condensed moisture is going to follow the path of least resistance, which in most cases is the base of the tank, which is exactly where you don't want it to end up.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Andre

n00b13 said:


> This made mine leak even more. Cannot recall if I fired whilst blowing though. But in the end, CLR fixed my leaking issues completely. The first stock coil that shipped with it was fine. All replacements thereafter were a mess until I bought CLR. Haven't tried recoiling yet, but rewicking is really easy. Got it right first time (unlike subtank mini)
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have recoiled the CLR with success, comparatively easy. Contact coils.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Heino13

Thanks a lot for all the input

Gotta say, blowing also made mine worse. So much wasted juice 

So it seems CLR is the way to go, a quick Google explained to me that this is their rebuild-able/reusable coil. 

Seems like I will get into this quicker then I initially thought. I see you get them in 0.5 and 1 ohm. What else will I need?


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## Andre

Heino13 said:


> Thanks a lot for all the input
> 
> Gotta say, blowing also made mine worse. So much wasted juice
> 
> So it seems CLR is the way to go, a quick Google explained to me that this is their rebuild-able/reusable coil.
> 
> Seems like I will get into this quicker then I initially thought. I see you get them in 0.5 and 1 ohm. What else will I need?


I got some from eciggies and vapour mountain. You will need wire eventually, 28 g Kanthal works well for me. Cotton to wick it with - using such a small piece you might as well get the best - Cotton Bacon V2. A 2.5 mm mandrel to wrap the coil on. And a flame (little blow torch or gas stove or lighter) to torch the wire/coil with. I do contact coils.


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## korn1

Are these safe and good for the kbox mini? 
Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh?


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## daniel craig

korn1 said:


> Are these safe and good for the kbox mini?
> Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh?


Yes


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## Andre

korn1 said:


> Are these safe and good for the kbox mini?
> Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh?


Yes, excellent batteries, the Smurfs.


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## korn1

Thanks guys.


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## wiesbang

Andre said:


> I have recoiled the CLR with success, comparatively easy. Contact coils.


What is CLR?

I have 3 ego one coils that I can't use with my mod


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> What is CLR?
> 
> I have 3 ego one coils that I can't use with my mod


The Rebuildable coils for the ego one tank

Reactions: Like 1


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## wiesbang

daniel craig said:


> The Rebuildable coils for the ego one tank


Ok no i don't think ihave those. Otherwise Heino could have it.
Ego one mega same coils?


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## Andre

wiesbang said:


> Ok no i don't think ihave those. Otherwise Heino could have it.
> Ego one mega same coils?


Yip, all the Ego tanks as well as the TRON tank use the same coil units. The CLR version is the only one designed to be rebuildable.


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## wiesbang

I am looking for a TC mod but I dont want to spend more than R500. Is that do - able?


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## Andre

wiesbang said:


> I am looking for a TC mod but I dont want to spend more than R500. Is that do - able?


For a new mod, the best you can probably do is the iStick 60W TC here: http://www.vapeclub.co.za/collectio...hat-supplies-the-power/products/istick-60w-tc

Bear in mind it only does TC with Nickel and Titanium, not SS. And not upgradeable.


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## Heino13

wiesbang said:


> Ok no i don't think ihave those. Otherwise Heino could have it.
> Ego one mega same coils?


Thanks a lot

basically these http://eciggies.co.za/eGo-ONE-CLR-COIL?search=ego one

Red is Ti and blue Ni

I see there is a pack of 5 black as well, but not sure if CLR as well


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## wiesbang

Heino13 said:


> Thanks a lot
> 
> basically these http://eciggies.co.za/eGo-ONE-CLR-COIL?search=ego one
> 
> Red is Ti and blue Ni
> 
> I see there is a pack of 5 black as well, but not sure if CLR as well


No not those. I just have stock non Rebuildable ones


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## wiesbang

How do you decrease the nic level in a juice?


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## Silver

wiesbang said:


> How do you decrease the nic level in a juice?



You add some zero nic PG, VG or PG/VG blend
Only problem is that the more you add the more you dilute the flavour
Depends on how much you add and how "strong" the flavour is


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## Andre

wiesbang said:


> How do you decrease the nic level in a juice?


Tell us

the volume you wish to dilute 
the current mg and the mg you want
The VG/PG of the juice
and we shall do the calculations for you.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nightwalker

wiesbang said:


> I didn't want to open a thread for every question so I though it might be a good idea to have one of these if there isn't one already.
> 
> 
> First question
> 
> The tank that comes with the evic vtc mini will it work on my istick 30w mod?


Yip


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## Nightwalker

Also freaked me out, its your juice on coils. I noticed, and I stand corrected, but higher VG juices have less crackling


Heino13 said:


> What is the cracking and poping when it hits desired Temprature?


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## Nimatek

shaun patrick said:


> Also freaked me out, its your juice on coils. I noticed, and I stand corrected, but higher VG juices have less crackling


It depends on the temp and airflow of the vape. Sometimes I get the cracking and popping other times not. 

I can get it on any mixture but I tend to notice it more on higher vg rates. 

To me if it pops, I know I found a good spot where I get the most of my build. 

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


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## wiesbang

Andre said:


> Tell us
> 
> the volume you wish to dilute
> the current mg and the mg you want
> The VG/PG of the juice
> and we shall do the calculations for you.


Fanx. My buddy took the juice off my hands he likes it more....and i am trying to get him off the stinkies.

Am I vaping too much or is it the rda i am using that drains my battery so quick?
Lasts about n hour - two.
Or most likely coz i am pushing it at its max @ 30w.

Fml i need moar powa!


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## Cespian

Hello Peeps

Instead of creating a new thread, why not use an existing one. Anyways. I managed to convince a friend of mine to get rid of his Twisp Aero tank (because coils are such a pain for this device) and get a Kanger Subtank Mini. He went to collect from VapeMob in Kenilworth 2 days ago. He is using the stock 0.5ohm Kanthal OCC coil. The ST is being powered by an eLeaf iStick TC40W.

Basically what the sales guy told him was that he should NOT vape at anything below 3.7V and he should ideally keep the voltage at 4V (hence pushing the watts in excess 25/26). Now I am not sure if my buddy was smoking something he was not supposed to, as I am assuming it makes more sense to not exceed 4V, but do any of you have any comment on this? 

Reason I'm asking is because when I use the RBA on my ST, build between 0.4 and 0.6ohm and vape at around 3 - 3.2V (18 to 19watts), and its sufficient for me. Other side effects of vaping over this wattage/voltage for me is that the vape gets a bit too warm for my liking, and it chows joose like a Chevvy Lumina.

Thanks in advance.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Andre

Cespian said:


> Hello Peeps
> 
> Instead of creating a new thread, why not use an existing one. Anyways. I managed to convince a friend of mine to get rid of his Twisp Aero tank (because coils are such a pain for this device) and get a Kanger Subtank Mini. He went to collect from VapeMob in Kenilworth 2 days ago. He is using the stock 0.5ohm Kanthal OCC coil. The ST is being powered by an eLeaf iStick TC40W.
> 
> Basically what the sales guy told him was that he should NOT vape at anything below 3.7V and he should ideally keep the voltage at 4V (hence pushing the watts in excess 25/26). Now I am not sure if my buddy was smoking something he was not supposed to, as I am assuming it makes more sense to not exceed 4V, but do any of you have any comment on this?
> 
> Reason I'm asking is because when I use the RBA on my ST, build between 0.4 and 0.6ohm and vape at around 3 - 3.2V (18 to 19watts), and its sufficient for me. Other side effects of vaping over this wattage/voltage for me is that the vape gets a bit too warm for my liking, and it chows joose like a Chevvy Lumina.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Here is what Kangertech advises, but I see that as a guideline. Certainly not a hard and fast rule for any reason that I know of. In any event, they recommend a starting point of 15 W for the 0.5 ohm coil.
Case in point - HRH vapes on a TRON tank with CLR head coiled to 1.4 ohms. She never goes above 7 W and gets a vape to her satisfaction.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thanks 1


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## wiesbang

I build a coil with 30g kanthal with organic cotton for the Twisp clearo. Will it be fine to use?


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> I build a coil with 30g kanthal with organic cotton for the Twisp clearo. Will it be fine to use?


What resistance ?


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## Cespian

Andre said:


> Here is what Kangertech advises, but I see that as a guideline. Certainly not a hard and fast rule for any reason that I know of. In any event, they recommend a starting point of 15 W for the 0.5 ohm coil.
> Case in point - HRH vapes on a TRON tank with CLR head coiled to 1.4 ohms. She never goes above 7 W and gets a vape to her satisfaction.



Thanks dude. Appreciate it.

Reactions: Like 1


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## wiesbang

daniel craig said:


> What resistance ?


No idea. Cant measure with twisp


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> No idea. Cant measure with twisp


Should work. I've done them before, but flavor wasn't the same as the store bought coil.


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## Ernest

Cespian said:


> Hello Peeps
> 
> Instead of creating a new thread, why not use an existing one. Anyways. I managed to convince a friend of mine to get rid of his Twisp Aero tank (because coils are such a pain for this device) and get a Kanger Subtank Mini. He went to collect from VapeMob in Kenilworth 2 days ago. He is using the stock 0.5ohm Kanthal OCC coil. The ST is being powered by an eLeaf iStick TC40W.
> 
> Basically what the sales guy told him was that he should NOT vape at anything below 3.7V and he should ideally keep the voltage at 4V (hence pushing the watts in excess 25/26). Now I am not sure if my buddy was smoking something he was not supposed to, as I am assuming it makes more sense to not exceed 4V, but do any of you have any comment on this?
> 
> Reason I'm asking is because when I use the RBA on my ST, build between 0.4 and 0.6ohm and vape at around 3 - 3.2V (18 to 19watts), and its sufficient for me. Other side effects of vaping over this wattage/voltage for me is that the vape gets a bit too warm for my liking, and it chows joose like a Chevvy Lumina.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I regularly vape my subtank at 20W with a 0.5ohm coil. Uses less juice, batteries last longer and it gives a cooler vape. I think he should just play around with it until he finds what he likes.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## Cespian

Ernest said:


> I regularly vape my subtank at 20W with a 0.5ohm coil. Uses less juice, batteries last longer and it gives a cooler vape. I think he should just play around with it until he finds what he likes.



Yeah me too. Thats why I immediately got concerned with what the guy at MOB said. 

Thanks for the reassurance.


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## Silver

wiesbang said:


> No idea. Cant measure with twisp



How many wraps and what id @wiesbang ?

Reactions: Like 1


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## wiesbang

Silver said:


> How many wraps and what id @wiesbang ?


30g 6 wraps on the blue screwdriver


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## daniel craig

wiesbang said:


> 30g 6 wraps on the blue screwdriver


Should work. I do a 32g 5 wrap. Try to get between 1.8-2.2 ohm. Any higher, there'll be very little vapor and flavor.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Silver

wiesbang said:


> 30g 6 wraps on the blue screwdriver



Just checked on steamengine, 30g, 6 wraps around 2.0mm (the little blue screwdriver) should give around 1.5 ohms

Depends what mod you are using it on, but i would say perhaps try get the resistance a bit higher. Maybe another wrap or two. What mod are you firing it on?

Although it would probably work ok on the Twisp Ego type batteries - but only just - if memory serves me correctly. May just be a bit hotter than normal. 

When i used to rebuilld the coils for the little Evod and mPT2 i used to use about 9 or 10 wraps of 28g around 1.6mm. And it would come out at about 1.6 ohms or maybe slightly higher.

I found the smaller diameter was better for these lower power coils in these types of basic clearos. (Under 10 Watts)


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## Heino13

Is it possible for juice to last longer at the coast? 

On holiday at coast and juice lasting 1 - 2 days longer than at home


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## Rob Fisher

Heino13 said:


> Is it possible for juice to last longer at the coast?
> 
> On holiday at coast and juice lasting 1 - 2 days longer than at home



I think you are just vaping less because you are busy doing stuff on holiday.


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## Heino13

Thanks Rob 
We were in Tzaneen for a week as well and the juices flowed there same as at home
Maybe the ocean is keeping me busy

Reactions: Agree 1


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## wiesbang

How would i know if the battery on my istick 30w is on its way out?
It either doesnt last a hour or after I charged it then when using it, it shuts down to say battery low


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## Cespian

wiesbang said:


> How would i know if the battery on my istick 30w is on its way out?
> It either doesnt last a hour or after I charged it then when using it, it shuts down to say battery low



Hey, that all depends on:

What wattage are you vaping on?
What tank/dripper are you using?
Your build (Single or Dual, Resistance)?

Eg. My iStick TC40W lasts me a day and a half vaping at 18 to 19watts using Kanger Subtank Mini, built with 24 gauge Kanthal at 0.4ohms. However, I have used my dripper (Atty Cubed Dual coil 0.3 ohm build) with this MOD and needed to crank the wattage up to at least 35 (otherwise ramp time is horrendous). Battery life becomes a myth (In all honesty, I get max 15 minutes vape time and the MOD feels as hot as a nuclear reactor).

Reactions: Informative 1


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## wiesbang

Cespian said:


> Hey, that all depends on:
> 
> What wattage are you vaping on?
> What tank/dripper are you using?
> Your build (Single or Dual, Resistance)?
> 
> Eg. My iStick TC40W lasts me a day and a half vaping at 18 to 19watts using Kanger Subtank Mini, built with 24 gauge Kanthal at 0.4ohms. However, I have used my dripper (Atty Cubed Dual coil 0.3 ohm build) with this MOD and needed to crank the wattage up to at least 35 (otherwise ramp time is horrendous). Battery life becomes a myth (In all honesty, I get max 15 minutes vape time and the MOD feels as hot as a nuclear reactor).


I vape at 30w using 27g wire, dual coil at anything from 0.4 - 0.8ohm
I use either my turbo v1 dripper or my sqwonk tank.


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## Silver

wiesbang said:


> How would i know if the battery on my istick 30w is on its way out?
> It either doesnt last a hour or after I charged it then when using it, it shuts down to say battery low



No easy way of knowing @wiesbang 

How old is the istick30? How many charge cycles would you estimate it's been through?

I believe these batteries have a lifespan of about 300 to 500 cycles - so if you have approached that number, it could be on its way out. Should still work though - probably just not retain as much capacity and die out earlier.

But from what you are saying - it could also be that the charger is not working properly and not charging it - or the built in charging circuit might not be doing its job properly.


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## Cespian

wiesbang said:


> I vape at 30w using 27g wire, dual coil at anything from 0.4 - 0.8ohm
> I use either my turbo v1 dripper or my sqwonk tank.



Yeah, long story short, the iStick 30W has a 2200mAh battery. At around 0.4ohm (dual coil) you will be drawing just shy of 9a at a time. Hence if your battery lasts even 10 minutes with with that current draw without melting in your hand, you could count yourself lucky.

To put into perspective, think about a car. Imagine driving the car in 1st gear at the red line. How long would your engine last before it blows a gasket or busts a bearing on the crank. 

Maybe consider single coil builds at vaping at Max 20watts to increase your MOD's lifespan

Reactions: Agree 4


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## wiesbang

Cespian said:


> Yeah, long story short, the iStick 30W has a 2200mAh battery. At around 0.4ohm (dual coil) you will be drawing just shy of 9a at a time. Hence if your battery lasts even 10 minutes with with that current draw without melting in your hand, you could count yourself lucky.
> 
> To put into perspective, think about a car. Imagine driving the car in 1st gear at the red line. How long would your engine last before it blows a gasket or busts a bearing on the crank.
> 
> Maybe consider single coil builds at vaping at Max 20watts to increase your MOD's lifespan


Ok cool tnx will try that

Reactions: Like 1


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## Heino13

Got eGo on tank with vtc mini
What would be a good 2nd tank to buy?


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## Rob Fisher

Heino13 said:


> Got eGo on tank with vtc mini
> What would be a good 2nd tank to buy?



Rebuildable or commercial coils? Mouth to Lung or Lung hitting?

Rebuildable - Crius - Lung
Commercial Coils - Steam Engine or Subtank Mini - Lung
Commercial Coils - Cubis - Mouth to Lung.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## wiesbang

Rob Fisher said:


> Rebuildable or commercial coils? Mouth to Lung or Lung hitting?
> 
> Rebuildable - Crius - Lung
> Commercial Coils - Steam Engine or Subtank Mini - Lung
> Commercial Coils - Cubis - Mouth to Lung.


MTL the Nautilus is also good

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Heino13

Rob Fisher said:


> Rebuildable or commercial coils? Mouth to Lung or Lung hitting?
> 
> Rebuildable - Crius - Lung
> Commercial Coils - Steam Engine or Subtank Mini - Lung
> Commercial Coils - Cubis - Mouth to Lung.



Lung hitting 

Would subtank mini maybe be good to get as I can still get commercial coils if needed. But also might be able to get into coil building? 

Or rather go straight ciruis?

Thanks for feedback


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## Rob Fisher

Heino13 said:


> Lung hitting
> 
> Would subtank mini maybe be good to get as I can still get commercial coils if needed. But also might be able to get into coil building?
> 
> Or rather go straight ciruis?
> 
> Thanks for feedback



Personally I would recommend the SubTank Mini... great tank and you can play with rebuilding and use commercials coils when you want to!

Reactions: Agree 3


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## shaunnadan

Heino13 said:


> Lung hitting
> 
> Would subtank mini maybe be good to get as I can still get commercial coils if needed. But also might be able to get into coil building?
> 
> Or rather go straight ciruis?
> 
> Thanks for feedback



Sub tank mini is a great tank and the various bell caps and coil really make it versatile. Commercial coils are simple to rewick and the rba base is nice and easy with a decent deck.

Crius is what I'm currently using. Dual coil with a unique but fairly easy build deck. Much better airflow and can have much bigger builds for higher wattages. Flavour is excellent! 

If your starting off then I'd recommend a single coil tank like the sub tank. It's annoying when it's not working perfectly and instead of getting frustrated you can just pop in an occ coil and have a Vape and come back to it again later

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## Heino13

Great thanks for always giving great advice

Reactions: Like 2


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## Silver

Heino13 said:


> Great thanks for always giving great advice



Good luck @Heino13 
I can second what @shaunnadan said above
The Subtank mini is good and its a single coil device so its a bit easier. And i agree with him on the convenience of being able to put in a commercial coil when you need to.
Also goes through less juice


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## Mogwai79

Good day. Can anyone tell me where I can get a E pipe mod. Looking for a long stem. Like a Churchwarden pipe.


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## wiesbang

Mogwai79 said:


> Good day. Can anyone tell me where I can get a E pipe mod. Looking for a long stem. Like a Churchwarden pipe.


@BumbleBee weren't you selling some a while ago?


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## blujeenz

Mogwai79 said:


> Good day. Can anyone tell me where I can get a E pipe mod. Looking for a long stem. Like a Churchwarden pipe.


You can try Vapour Mountain here http://www.vapourmountain.co.za/product-category/accessories/limelight/
Best to ask in the "Who has stock forum" http://www.ecigssa.co.za/who-has-stock.f68/

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Clouds4Days

Kuhlkatz said:


> The stock coils with the VTC mini is a Titanium and a Nickel coil and most of the replacements are the same. These are intended for use with temperature control devices, so please do not try them on the iStick.
> If you can get your hands on the Ego One CLR coils that are 0.5 ohms or 1.0 ohms Kanthal, they should work fine. As far as I know the CLRs are rebuildable too.



Hi there. 
Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.


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## shaunnadan

Clouds4Days said:


> Hi there.
> Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.


Which mod do you want to use the ti or nickel coils on ?


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## Mogwai79

Thanks 


blujeenz said:


> You can try Vapour Mountain here http://www.vapourmountain.co.za/product-category/accessories/limelight/
> Best to ask in the "Who has stock forum" http://www.ecigssa.co.za/who-has-stock.f68/


Thanks, sorry for posting in wrong place.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Ezekiel

Clouds4Days said:


> Hi there.
> Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.


Thats quite interesting. The iJust can only fire to 0.2 or 0.3 Ohm if I remember correctly, so it is supposes to not fire if you put anything lower than that on there. You run quite a risk of blowing that battery to bits if you're vaping extended times on an resistance lower than the mod's mininum.

Ni (and to a large extent, Ti) are built exclusively for Temp control mods, which the iJust2 isn't. The reason - AFAIK - is for a) lower resistance of these wires which will draw much more beyond your battery's safety limits, and b) these wires tend to oxidize at higher temperatures, which are very dangerous to your health.

Both these issues are prevented by TC devices, which will limit the power by limitting the max temp the wires can reach. Vaping Ni or Ti on non-TC mods is a bit dangerous, and I would advise anybody who plan on doing so to google the issue a bit and make sure they know what they are doing. Im not at home otherwise I would go look for some links!

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Clouds4Days

@shaunnadan and @Ezekiel
Reason I'm using my gs tank is i find my ijust 2 tank to powerful and just throws the vapour into my mouth like a beast from hell hahaha. But since I threw my gs tank on. She's a much more controlled beast. I'm actually trying to find another tank for her cause I got the ijust 2 tank now on my tc40w and that stupid rubber air flow on the tank irritates the crap out of me. Hahaha.


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## BumbleBee

wiesbang said:


> @BumbleBee weren't you selling some a while ago?


I do have a couple pipe mods in the classies but no long stems though

Reactions: Like 1


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## Ezekiel

Clouds4Days said:


> @shaunnadan and @Ezekiel
> Reason I'm using my gs tank is i find my ijust 2 tank to powerful and just throws the vapour into my mouth like a beast from hell hahaha. But since I threw my gs tank on. She's a much more controlled beast. I'm actually trying to find another tank for her cause I got the ijust 2 tank now on my tc40w and that stupid rubber air flow on the tank irritates the crap out of me. Hahaha.


My mistake @Clouds4Days ! Thought you were running the GS with Ni/Ti on the ijust2 battery.... the two devices (tank and mod) of the ijust2 really should've beem split...

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk


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## Kuhlkatz

Clouds4Days said:


> Hi there.
> Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.



I would not run those on the iJust, as it is a 'fixed' unregulated mod, similar to just a mech mod with some protection. It's not a question of whether the mod would fire them or not, it's a bit more subtle than that.
Any Nickel or Titanium coils requires a mod that supports temperature control based on the type of coil. Nickel metals / coils that are heated above specific thresholds can release poisonous gases which you are obviously going to inhale straight-on. Overheated Titanium builds up a layer of oxidization on the outside which is also deemed poisonous, and this will likely seep into the juice and be vaporised with it. Also a situation you want to avoid.

The only thing in your favor is that the coils likely remained cooler than normally because of the wet wick that keeps the temperature down. I would not do that at all.
I would swap back to Kanthal coils immediately if I were you.

EDIT : If you meant just the iJust 2 tank then that is another story.. I should have checked the other posts methinks. The TC40W only supports Nickel builds for TC as well, so keep that in mind. It also fires at 40W (40J) in TC mode, so you really should start at the lowest temperature if trying to figure what works for you.
When using the iJust Tank with the TC40 mod and the standard coils, switch to wattage (power) mode and start at a lowish wattage, like 10-12W and work your way up / down from there. I have not used the .3 ohm coils, but I understand they produce quite a warm vape. The .5 ohms are sufficient for me, as I usually vape a strong menthol on it.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Clouds4Days

Ezekiel said:


> My mistake @Clouds4Days ! Thought you were running the GS with Ni/Ti on the ijust2 battery.... the two devices (tank and mod) of the ijust2 really should've beem split...


Hahaha
Sorry @Ezekiel but you were right the first time. Hahaha
I think we just getting lost in translation.
So i got my ijust 2 tank on my tc40w and I've put my gs tank with .15 ohm nickel on my ijust 2 battery.
So i should swop them back ?
If I put my ijust 2 tank back with the right battery is there any other decent tank I can run with my ijust 2 battery?


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## Clouds4Days

Hi @Kuhlkatz , you say it has to do with temp. But if I'm not mistaken the ijust 2 battery only fires 40w (i stand to be corrected) which is what my Istick fires ?
Sorry just checked now they say ijust2 fires between 30 and 80 watts


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## Kuhlkatz

Clouds4Days said:


> Hi @Kuhlkatz , you say it has to do with temp. But if I'm not mistaken the ijust 2 battery only fires 40w (i stand to be corrected) which is what my Istick fires ?



The snag is that the ijust 2 does not limit the temperature, so will fire the Ti / Ni coils at a full 40W and NOT limit the temperature. So even if the iStick fires at 40W, the moment it picks up that the coil is at the set temperature, it stops firing until the coil temperature reduces to below a certain threshold again. This fire/stop/fire/stop process is repeated, and the TC40W display should indicate 'Temp Protection' when this occurs.

Based on your other question, I would definitely swap the 2 back to the respective mods. iJust tank & battery, and GS back to the TC40W using TC mode. You can also use the iJust tank on the Tc40W in power mode without issues.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## Clouds4Days

Kuhlkatz said:


> GS back to the TC40W using TC mode.


If I'm using the standard nickel coil should I only run it in tc mode and not in watts? Sorry for all the questions @Kuhlkatz but gotta learn the right way (safe way) to vape. ☺


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## foGGyrEader

Apparently Eleaf provides a TC version of the ijust2 tank...I cannot see a difference though. Sorry for hijacking


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## Kuhlkatz

foGGyrEader said:


> Apparently Eleaf provides a TC version of the ijust2 tank...I cannot see a difference though. Sorry for hijacking


They do, but from what I've seen in a few hasty Google searches, it seems it's only the Atomizer. 
The standard iJust 2 tank is good, make no mistake ,and TC coils for it is likely a good thing as well, but then these shmucks goes and recommend a best pair with an Eleaf iStick 100W which I know for a fact does not support any form of TC. No wonder the world wants to regulate the crap out of this industry..
http://www.istick.org/ijust-2-tc-atomizer.html

At least the original site indicates that the TC head is compatible with various batteries that support Temperature Control.
http://www.eleafworld.com/ijust-2-atomizer/

Reactions: Like 3


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## foGGyrEader

Kuhlkatz said:


> They do, but from what I've seen in a few hasty Google searches, it seems it's only the Atomizer.
> The standard iJust 2 tank is good, make no mistake ,and TC coils for it is likely a good thing as well, but then these shmucks goes and recommend a best pair with an Eleaf iStick 100W which I know for a fact does not support any form of TC. No wonder the world wants to regulate the crap out of this industry..
> http://www.istick.org/ijust-2-tc-atomizer.html
> 
> At least the original site indicates that the TC head is compatible with various batteries that support Temperature Control.
> http://www.eleafworld.com/ijust-2-atomizer/


 
So it goes...

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kuhlkatz

Clouds4Days said:


> If I'm using the standard nickel coil should I only run it in tc mode and not in watts? Sorry for all the questions @Kuhlkatz but gotta learn the right way (safe way) to vape. ?



Lol, no problem with questions. Most guys on here willingly dispose of answers based on own experience and gladly pass on what they learned along their vaping journey.

TL;DR : The intention of Ni and Ti coils are that they are to be used exclusively with mods that support Temperature Control with a specific resistance curve based on the material in use. Stainless Steel also has a specific curve, and is likely the safest option for TC in my biased opinion. Stainless Steel can also be used in normal power mode with no drawbacks, where the other 2 materials have questions around their safety when they are overheated. Most is speculation, and there is no hard scientific proof yet that I am aware of. Most older TC mods that do not allow firmware updates only support Ni, and cannot safely handle Ti.

Let me take a step back and start from the beginning.
From what I know, the initial vape devices used predominantly Kanthal or Nichrome coils to heat the e-liquid that was usually saturated in some wick around the coil, mostly cotton or other fibres for cartridges / cartomizers, and mostly coils wound around Silica Wick for the initial pen-style devices. Kanthal was designed for use in open-air heating elements, had a very high maximum temperature operating range and as a bonus seemed to have the ideal resistance range to use with battery operated devices.
At this stage the batteries did not really produce very much output, so high temperatures was not a huge concern. As long as it could vaporize the nicotine solution, all was good. Stuff evolved quickly and like any industry, it produced some die-hard fans that wanted bigger and better things. More vapour, more flavour, more power. Pipe mods evolved from this, using the much-loved 18650 batteries that we mostly use today, and this lead to builds that started pushing the limits - both of batteries and temperatures the builds were reaching to produce more and more clouds.

Where the average Joe was happily vaping at around 6-8Watts two years ago, some regulated devices available now does not go below even 10 or 15W. Regulated devices above 20W was unheard of and 'no one in his right mind needed all that power' when the first 50W device hit the market. 
This ever-growing search for more power sparked off another debate about whether vaping / vaporizing e-liquids at such high temperatures are safe / were still safer than smoking, worse than smoking etc.
Evolv then designed the DNA-40 chip, which was the first to use Ni coils to maintain a given temperature at the coil head. While firing the coil, they monitored the resistance of the coil to determine when it reached a given temperature. If the temperature was reached, the power was reduced or cut, to allow the coil to cool below a certain threshold before power was applied again to maintain the 'perfect' temperature.
When Nickel is heated, the resistance changes in a known proportion based on the temperature, and on a large enough scale that can be accurately measured. Kanthal does not have similar properties, so does not lend itself to temperature control.

The choice of Ni as material was questioned, as some people have Ni allergies and refused to use it. Others said that it could potentially produce poisonous gases above certain temperatures, and questioned its safe use around that. The next best thing to quickly hit the market was Titanium coils, which had similar measurable properties to Ni, but Titanium on the other hand produces an oxide layer when dry-burned, which is also deemed poisonous, so overheating it is a no-no.
So, the latest and next best thing to hit the market for TC, is Stainless Steel coils. Aaaannnnd guess what - there are people that say it's also not 100% safe, as it oxidizes as well. Seems we can never win.

For your own safety, and to ensure we keep other ECIGSSA members alive as long as possible, my recommendation is not to use coils intended for TC devices with a mod or battery that does not support Temperature Control. This is at least until we get concrete proof about how safe Ti and Ni is at higher 'uncontrolled' temperatures. Rather be safe than sorry and only use Kanthal coils in non-TC devices.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 4


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## Clouds4Days

Kuhlkatz said:


> Rather be safe than sorry and only use Kanthal coils in non-TC devices.


Awesome @Kuhlkatz 
Thank you for the advice and all the info.
Really technical stuff going on, actually very scary if you don't know what you doing. The reason I quoted that last bit is actually when I bought my ijust 2 , like I said it has a very powerful tank so I read to use a 0.5ohm coil . So i went to a vape shop in the east (won't mention names) and they gave me a 0.5 titanium coil and said it will work on my ijust 2.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Andre

Kuhlkatz said:


> Lol, no problem with questions. Most guys on here willingly dispose of answers based on own experience and gladly pass on what they learned along their vaping journey.
> 
> TL;DR : The intention of Ni and Ti coils are that they are to be used exclusively with mods that support Temperature Control with a specific resistance curve based on the material in use. Stainless Steel also has a specific curve, and is likely the safest option for TC in my biased opinion. Stainless Steel can also be used in normal power mode with no drawbacks, where the other 2 materials have questions around their safety when they are overheated. Most is speculation, and there is no hard scientific proof yet that I am aware of. Most older TC mods that do not allow firmware updates only support Ni, and cannot safely handle Ti.
> 
> Let me take a step back and start from the beginning.
> From what I know, the initial vape devices used predominantly Kanthal or Nichrome coils to heat the e-liquid that was usually saturated in some wick around the coil, mostly cotton or other fibres for cartridges / cartomizers, and mostly coils wound around Silica Wick for the initial pen-style devices. Kanthal was designed for use in open-air heating elements, had a very high maximum temperature operating range and as a bonus seemed to have the ideal resistance range to use with battery operated devices.
> At this stage the batteries did not really produce very much output, so high temperatures was not a huge concern. As long as it could vaporize the nicotine solution, all was good. Stuff evolved quickly and like any industry, it produced some die-hard fans that wanted bigger and better things. More vapour, more flavour, more power. Pipe mods evolved from this, using the much-loved 18650 batteries that we mostly use today, and this lead to builds that started pushing the limits - both of batteries and temperatures the builds were reaching to produce more and more clouds.
> 
> Where the average Joe was happily vaping at around 6-8Watts two years ago, some regulated devices available now does not go below even 10 or 15W. Regulated devices above 20W was unheard of and 'no one in his right mind needed all that power' when the first 50W device hit the market.
> This ever-growing search for more power sparked off another debate about whether vaping / vaporizing e-liquids at such high temperatures are safe / were still safer than smoking, worse than smoking etc.
> Evolv then designed the DNA-40 chip, which was the first to use Ni coils to maintain a given temperature at the coil head. While firing the coil, they monitored the resistance of the coil to determine when it reached a given temperature. If the temperature was reached, the power was reduced or cut, to allow the coil to cool below a certain threshold before power was applied again to maintain the 'perfect' temperature.
> When Nickel is heated, the resistance changes in a known proportion based on the temperature, and on a large enough scale that can be accurately measured. Kanthal does not have similar properties, so does not lend itself to temperature control.
> 
> The choice of Ni as material was questioned, as some people have Ni allergies and refused to use it. Others said that it could potentially produce poisonous gases above certain temperatures, and questioned its safe use around that. The next best thing to quickly hit the market was Titanium coils, which had similar measurable properties to Ni, but Titanium on the other hand produces an oxide layer when dry-burned, which is also deemed poisonous, so overheating it is a no-no.
> So, the latest and next best thing to hit the market for TC, is Stainless Steel coils. Aaaannnnd guess what - there are people that say it's also not 100% safe, as it oxidizes as well. Seems we can never win.
> 
> For your own safety, and to ensure we keep other ECIGSSA members alive as long as possible, my recommendation is not to use coils intended for TC devices with a mod or battery that does not support Temperature Control. This is at least until we get concrete proof about how safe Ti and Ni is at higher 'uncontrolled' temperatures. Rather be safe than sorry and only use Kanthal coils in non-TC devices.


Great write up! For me the irony is that TC has effectively brought us back to lower (and safer) power.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Kuhlkatz

Andre said:


> Great write up! For me the irony is that TC has effectively brought us back to lower (and safer) power.



@Andre, I fully agree on the safety aspect, as that was the whole intention behind the TC move. Unfortunately it has also split up the opinions on the materials, almost negating the whole intention of TC.

Reactions: Like 2


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## wiesbang

Is change in ohm fine after wicking and juicing?

Built at 1.42ohm
Then wicked and added juice now it reads 1.18ohms.

Is it safe to use?


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## shaunnadan

wiesbang said:


> Is change in ohm fine after wicking and juicing?
> 
> Built at 1.42ohm
> Then wicked and added juice now it reads 1.18ohms.
> 
> Is it safe to use?



Make sure the posts are tightened properly. 

Usually it does change when you alter the coil, squeezing and moving it around. The wick and juice also have an effect But not that big a jump.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## wiesbang

Thanks. I couldn't taste anything also veeeery little vapor


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## WARMACHINE

When rebuilding stock OCC heads what determines the impedance of your coil build ?


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## Andre

WARMACHINE said:


> When rebuilding stock OCC heads what determines the impedance of your coil build ?


"impedance"? You mean "resistance"? If so, that is determined by the number of wraps, the ID (inner diameter) of the coil, the length of the coil legs, the thickness of the wire used and the type of wire used. A resistance meter is very handy for this. To get an idea of how to reach your intended resistance, this site is very useful: http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

Reactions: Like 2


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## WARMACHINE

@Andre 

Thanks, I am from the AV industry, sorry, anything with ohms, we talk about impedance, but I meant resistance. Thanks for the link, will definitely check it out once I have all my bits and bops ready for building

Reactions: Like 2


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## Andre

WARMACHINE said:


> @Andre
> 
> Thanks, I am from the AV industry, sorry, anything with ohms, we talk about impedance, but I meant resistance. Thanks for the link, will definitely check it out once I have all my bits and bops ready for building


Well, grammatically they mean more or less the same I suppose. All the best with your building journey. Do shout if you have any questions.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Heino13

Anyone tried naked fish stingray 
My 1st international juice I tried and was epic
Anything similar locally?


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## blujeenz

Someone needs to steep some jam snoek in PG to show them what a real sushi vape should taste like.
How they get naked fish stingray from


> Sweet berries and peanut butter with a touch of vanilla results in a buttery smooth nutty juice blend.


is beyond me.


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## Alex

shaunnadan said:


> Make sure the posts are tightened properly.
> 
> Usually it does change when you alter the coil, squeezing and moving it around. The wick and juice also have an effect But not that big a jump.



Just adding to this advice. After tightening the coil initially, checking the resistance and dry firing. I always give the screws a second tweaking. 

This is my method for newly built coils.

Reactions: Agree 2


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