# Reuleaux Rx200



## Zahz (14/12/15)

Hi guys...... I recently purchased an Rx200. I'm using my bellus and Goliath tank on it. My bellus is a 0.35 build if I use it on any device it reads 0.35. When I put it on my rx200 it starts of at 0.38 and then jumps after a while to 0.45 and sometimes even going up to 0.5. My Goliath is a 0.27 build and reads at 0.34 on my Rx200. It also keeps jumping resistance. Could there possibly be a fault with the pin? Or what is causing this. I use the tanks on other devices like the Evic VTc and don't have this problem. 

Please helps guys 


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## shaunnadan (14/12/15)

hey 

so im guessing its a regular kanthal build right ?


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## shaunnadan (14/12/15)

normally... jumping resistance is normal for temp control builds unless you lock the resistance. 

for kanthal builds its 99% due to a loose contact at the posts, usually tightening them a bit will resolve this

Reactions: Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## shaunnadan (14/12/15)

it could possible be the centre pin not making a good contact with the atty. do you have any other attys to test and see if it still occurs ?


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## blujeenz (14/12/15)

and the eVic VTC was in power mode and not TC.


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## Zahz (14/12/15)

I'm only using normal wattage mode as its kanthal 


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## Zahz (14/12/15)

Bellus on Evic VTc 


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## Zahz (14/12/15)

Same tank on the Rx200


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## Zahz (14/12/15)

I think it's the centre pin issue on the mod. Tanks work perfectly fine on other mods and I've tried them on my brothers mods also. If I keep screwing and unscrewing the tank it gives different readings 


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## shaunnadan (14/12/15)

the centre pin is spring loaded. 

can you perhaps see if its not smashed down ? it may need to be pulled up a tiny smidge


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## blujeenz (14/12/15)

I was thinking you might have had the kanthal in TC mode on the RX200 which was screwing it around.
Just thumb sucking.


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## shaunnadan (14/12/15)

blujeenz said:


> I was thinking you might have had the kanthal in TC mode on the RX200 which was screwing it around.
> Just thumb sucking.




Shouldn't it just kick back to power mode if it detects kanthal?


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## gman211991 (15/12/15)

Zahz said:


> Hi guys...... I recently purchased an Rx200. I'm using my bellus and Goliath tank on it. My bellus is a 0.35 build if I use it on any device it reads 0.35. When I put it on my rx200 it starts of at 0.38 and then jumps after a while to 0.45 and sometimes even going up to 0.5. My Goliath is a 0.27 build and reads at 0.34 on my Rx200. It also keeps jumping resistance. Could there possibly be a fault with the pin? Or what is causing this. I use the tanks on other devices like the Evic VTc and don't have this problem.
> 
> Please helps guys
> 
> ...


Maybe adjust the bellus pin could be bad contact. Had issue with ipv4s and my bellus

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Reactions: Like 1


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## Marzuq (15/12/15)

I run my bellus on the rx200. one is built at 0.25ohm and the other at 0.37ohm.
I have no issues with the builds at all. my device reads them the same as my sigelei tc mod.
what i did notice on the bellus is that when you build the coils and after you first heat it up the screws need a second tightening. this could also result in the variation of resistance you are getting. I cannot speak for the goliath as i do not have one.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1 | Creative 1


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## Nimatek (15/12/15)

My Aromamizer RDTA / Velocity RDA / Crown all work perfectly fine on the RX200. Pickup is correct each time and if I change from my Aromamizer (SS Tempt Control) to my Velocity (Clapton wire) it jumps out of TC into power. 

So yeah , either a bad pin somewhere or contact not working. Ensure you clean the 510 connector on the atty and the mod as well.


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## Zahz (15/12/15)

Will be getting it replaced by supplier as the pin seems to be faulty . Thanks guys 


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Reactions: Like 1


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## sneakydino (16/12/15)

So i bawt my rx200 but it came with 1 less battery....so I have 2 samsung 25R and I could only get a sony VTC. Is that a problem havin 2 samsung n 1 sony ? They have the same amperage ?


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## Dr Phil (16/12/15)

The rx and dna 200 beautiful

Reactions: Like 1


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## shaunnadan (16/12/15)

dr phil said:


> The rx and dna 200 beautiful



one of a kind rx200 !

love the colours

Reactions: Winner 1


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## shaunnadan (16/12/15)

sneakydino said:


> So i bawt my rx200 but it came with 1 less battery....so I have 2 samsung 25R and I could only get a sony VTC. Is that a problem havin 2 samsung n 1 sony ? They have the same amperage ?



its not ideal as the batteries could possible perform differently.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Lingogrey (16/12/15)

sneakydino said:


> So i bawt my rx200 but it came with 1 less battery....so I have 2 samsung 25R and I could only get a sony VTC. Is that a problem havin 2 samsung n 1 sony ? They have the same amperage ?


Hi @sneakydino

I am BY NO MEANS a battery expert and there are many members here (first ones to pop into my head - @johan, @shaunnadan, @Kuhlkatz, @Silver - many others as well) that could give a much more knowledgeable reply. However, I would be cautious of combining two different batteries in a series mod. Even if you did use two batteries with identical specs on paper (i.e. the LG HE 4 and Samsung 25 R) together, they would still have slightly different chemical compositions (there's even a difference between the Samsung 25R Smurf and the Samsung 25R "Green Grinch") and they would have slightly different discharge rates (even if 'officially' rated for the same continuous discharge and / or pulse discharge). The VTC 3's. 4's and 5's all have different mAh capacities than the Samsung 25R's as well as different continuous discharge ratings - therefore it would be even more unlikely that one of any of these could remain in a faithful marriage to two 25R's. At the very best, you will decrease your long term battery life. At worst, it could be dangerous (danger perhaps not imminent with a well regulated mod, but no need to take chances). Just my two cents.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 3 | Winner 1


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## Silver (16/12/15)

Awesome explanation @Lingogrey !!

I dont have a three battery mod @sneakydino , but from what I've read on my two battery mod, when you "marry" batteries they should be exactly the same and all new and preferably from the same "batch".

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Thanks 1


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## Kuhlkatz (17/12/15)

I can only echo @Silver 's sentiment @Lingogrey , very good explanation. I'm by no means an expert on the subject @sneakydino , but with the high current draw that is possible from the Rolo mods, it is definitely the safest route to use 3 batteries from the same manufacturer, same spec and age, and if you can, the same batch, but it's not always possible to determine this. 
If you have a 2 or 3 battery mod, the recommendation is to 'marry' a set or two of batteries for that mod. Always charge them together, always use them together. From when you start using them, they should remain together for the rest of their life, hence the 'married' term - till death do us part.
Here is how you can pair batteries like a pro.

The recommendation is not just for mods, but for any application where you use multiple batteries, I think most R/C toys that use penlite or other cells carry the same warning to not use different battery types, age and charge level.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## johan (17/12/15)

Excellent contributions by all the guys above (@shaunnadan, @Lingogrey, @Silver and @Kuhlkatz). The potential problem with "unmarried" batteries and/or different make / model batteries are: the "weakest" battery (capacity, discharge current rating etc) will take the most stress in high wattage settings. The reason being the weakest battery will obviously have the highest internal resistance that will lead same over the edge (and consequently vent) when higher current is required by the mod. To put it in simple words; the mod will try to draw the most power from the "weakest" battery, irrespective of the capability of the other battery/s.

PS: this is valid for both series- or parallel connected batteries.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 4


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## sneakydino (17/12/15)

Thanks a mil guys. Definitely gonna get new batteries, better safe than sorry. I can just keep the batteries for my single cell mods.

Reactions: Like 3


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## WARMACHINE (13/3/16)

I have a weird one with my RX200. I have been vaping my current build for the last 3/4 days. Alliance dripper with a 0.9ohm build. This morning the mod is showing no atomiser and 0ohms. I have check the coils and posts, all seems good. Have made sure there is no juice on 510 connector of mod and dripper.

I then swapped out dripper with subtank, to check it is not the mod. Subtank (0.5ohm) works perfectly. Re-attached dripper, and now it works 100%.

Is this an indication of something wrong with the RX200's 510 connector and if so, what can I do to remedy it ?


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## Mac75 (13/3/16)

WARMACHINE said:


> I have a weird one with my RX200. I have been vaping my current build for the last 3/4 days. Alliance dripper with a 0.9ohm build. This morning the mod is showing no atomiser and 0ohms. I have check the coils and posts, all seems good. Have made sure there is no juice on 510 connector of mod and dripper.
> 
> I then swapped out dripper with subtank, to check it is not the mod. Subtank (0.5ohm) works perfectly. Re-attached dripper, and now it works 100%.
> 
> Is this an indication of something wrong with the RX200's 510 connector and if so, what can I do to remedy it ?



Are you using your alliance with or without bottom heatsink?


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## WARMACHINE (13/3/16)

Mac75 said:


> Are you using your alliance with or without bottom heatsink?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Didn't know the bottom section was detactable, I am assuming it is with, as I have never taken anything off the dripper.


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## Mac75 (13/3/16)

WARMACHINE said:


> Didn't know the bottom section was detactable, I am assuming it is with, as I have never taken anything off the dripper.



U can remove the bottom heatsink and it becomes a 3 level rda. Maybe the bottom was not in tightly so there was no contact with the pin. When u took it off and out it back on it made contact I'm assuming. IMO its better without the bottom heatsink. That how i use mine 


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Reactions: Thanks 1


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## WARMACHINE (13/3/16)

Mac75 said:


> U can remove the bottom heatsink and it becomes a 3 level rda. Maybe the bottom was not in tightly so there was no contact with the pin. When u took it off and out it back on it made contact I'm assuming. IMO its better without the bottom heatsink. That how i use mine
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Seems all good now, so your estimation sounds right. I will pitstop it later today, and try out the dripper without heatsink, thanks m8

Reactions: Like 1


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