# Different Chipsets giving different resistances



## Rob Fisher (31/8/21)

With the coil testing I have been doing recently I have discovered that different chipsets and different mods all give slightly different resistances to the same coil in the same tank. The coils with stainless steel in them give way different readings but that is because SS's resistance changes depending on the temp of the wire.

But these tests are with our Ni80 Coils
DNA60 Stratum V7 - 0.46Ω
DNA60 IF Mods - 0.43Ω
DNA75C - 0.43Ω
YiYi 485J - 0.42
DNA100C - 0.43Ω

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 5


----------



## Teunh (31/8/21)

Thats probably the difference in the internal resistance setting.

Reactions: Agree 4


----------



## Grand Guru (31/8/21)

I think at that resistance range, +/- 0.04 is acceptable. I'd be worried if the coil resistance less than 0.2 especially on a mech mod

Reactions: Agree 4


----------



## Puff the Magic Dragon (31/8/21)

The difference between 0.42 Ohms and 0.46 Ohms is tiny. The max difference is 0.04 Ohms. I know that I would not notice any influence on the vape experience. It would be more noticeable at lower resistances such as 0.15 Ohms and 0.19 Ohms.

The differences you are seeing are all on DNA mods which are known to be accurate. I suspect that you would see much greater differences on cheaper chipsets. I know that this would bother some vapers but I am not one of them. I like to alter my vape experience fairly often. I may alter the Watt setting by up to 20W on the same coil. I like cooler vapes and yet sometimes I like to spice things up by having a warmer vape when the mood takes me. It also alters the juice flavour.

I tend to vape according to the vape experience rather than the wattage setting. I only use the Ohms reading to make sure that I don't burn a coil or the cotton. I know that some vapers like to stick to a particular wattage setting for a particular resistance coil. If their mod reads resistance inaccurately this would bug them when changing mods. My only requirement would be that the inaccurate mod should always read the same coil consistently inaccurately.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 3 | Thanks 1


----------



## Timwis (31/8/21)

Actually for a DNA device the 0.46ohm reading seems a bit of an outlier but as @Puff the Magic Dragon is still a tiny difference in relation to resistances around 0.4ohm, it would bug me why a DNA device is showing this difference though! Apart from the DNA60 Stratum V7 though your list to me is the opposite to what your post seems to be implying and is actually an advert for the consistency across DNA chipsets and that the YiHi is as accurate. If you think about it 0.424 would show as 0.42 but 0.425 (i believe if not definitely 0.426) would show as 0.43, so many variants could contribute to that fraction difference!

Reactions: Like 1 | Thanks 1


----------



## M.Adhir (31/8/21)

Ob the older B/W DNA chipset using SS coils or SS Hybrids, you should get ohm jumping as you press the fire button.
That's nothing to be alarmed about as long as the coils are balanced etc.
On the DNA-C you're likely to get the most stable reading of the lot (my findings so far, but the Yihi is pretty accurate as well within small margins).

Accuracy within those variances- can be anything from the length of the internal wiring between board and 510 or board and battery or the contact being made between the atty and the mod.

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 3


----------



## DarthBranMuffin (31/8/21)

Also the matter of calibration comes at play here. The High End hand-made mods get calibrated for peak performance where your mainstream is more plug-and-play during manufacturing. @Mauritz55 can get more into detail here with the calibration aspect. 

But minimal variances between mods should not take away anything on performance and power, unless the power output is also affected by the chips performance and setup.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Thanks 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Mauritz55 (31/8/21)

Not all chipsets gets calibrated by the mod makers!
Escribe has a function to see what your internal resistance is in regards to how it was made ie:wire gage and tipe of solder used and of course the battery tube contacts.
So plug your device in when Escribe is open then go to the page where you can see your mods internal resistance without a RDA/RTA connected,then short the 510 and you will get the internal resistance and save it!Remember to upload the settings on your mod and Boom your mod is calibrated and coil resistance would be accurate.
If someone needs help I can do a Remote Desktop and help with settings and calibration

Reactions: Agree 1 | Winner 8 | Informative 1


----------



## Viper_SA (1/9/21)

I've experienced the same thing to a much greater extent. I use White Collar mtl coils in all four of my Expromizer V4's. Advertised resistance is 0.75 ohm. On different mods the coils differ from 0.82 to 1.04 ohm. I just still hit them all at 20W and let them sort themselves out. But it does bug my OCD a bit.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Timwis (1/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> I've experienced the same thing to a much greater extent. I use White Collar mtl coils in all four of my Expromizer V4's. Advertised resistance is 0.75 ohm. On different mods the coils differ from 0.82 to 1.04 ohm. I just still hit them all at 20W and let them sort themselves out. But it does bug my OCD a bit.


Is that a difference coil to coil though or the same build showing difference resistances on different devices? If it's coil to coil then that allows for far more variants like how long the leads are left and even things like how tight the leads are secured!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Viper_SA (1/9/21)

Timwis said:


> Is that a difference coil to coil though or the same build showing difference resistances on different devices? If it's coil to coil then that allows for far more variants like how long the leads are left and even things like how tight the leads are secured!



Same build on different mods. I just came to the conclusion that it's not the best coils, but I like them nonetheless. Doesn't really make a big difference in the vape at a constant wattage on all four RTA's though, so 20W it is, lol.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Timwis (1/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> Same build on different mods. I just came to the conclusion that it's not the best coils, but I like them nonetheless. Doesn't really make a big difference in the vape at a constant wattage on all four RTA's though, so 20W it is, lol.


Wow, that is some major differences with the same build device to device! Is it a one off coil or the same whenever you use those coils? If you were a newbie I would be suspecting at least one of your leads were not secured tight but it can't be that so absolutely no idea?

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Viper_SA (1/9/21)

I have changed coils once or twice with the same result. The one reading high stays high though, and the lower reading one stays low so at least it's consistent on the same mod all the time. Must also say they are older mods, so perhaps the "fancy" coils confuses them a bit.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## Timwis (1/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> Doesn't really make a big difference in the vape at a constant wattage on all four RTA's though, so 20W it is, lol.



The advantage of setting by wattage if you set to 20w it will give 20w regardless and usually i would have the same attitude but even @Puff the Magic Dragon who also things like this doesn't bother him would think hey up, something is amiss here, 0.82 to 1.04ohm is a massive variant for a settled build to be reading device to device, it can't be the devices even the lower end chipsets are not that inaccurate!

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Timwis (1/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> I have changed coils once or twice with the same result. The one reading high stays high though, and the lower reading one stays low so at least it's consistent on the same mod all the time. Must also say they are older mods, so perhaps the "fancy" coils confuses them a bit.


Maybe needs an expert @charln any idea?


----------



## Timwis (1/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> I have changed coils once or twice with the same result. The one reading high stays high though, and the lower reading one stays low so at least it's consistent on the same mod all the time. Must also say they are older mods, so perhaps the "fancy" coils confuses them a bit.


I mean as you know a build when bedding down can be all over the place until bedded in but to clarify you are saying this is with a bedded in build?


----------



## Viper_SA (1/9/21)

Timwis said:


> I mean as you know a build when bedding down can be all over the place until bedded in but to clarify you are saying this is with a bedded in build?



Yup


----------



## Timwis (1/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> Must also say they are older mods



Maybe a bit of corrosion or/and e-liquid getting into the device via the 510 might be the cause but I am guessing!


----------



## Mauritz55 (2/9/21)

Timwis said:


> Maybe a bit of corrosion or/and e-liquid getting into the device via the 510 might be the cause but I am guessing!


The wire in mods do degrade or get hard after time And it will give higher resistance readings.
The coil itself can not jump from 0.80 to 1.0.
I normally calibrate my mods 2 times a year and also check my RTA’s and RDA’s post screws and 510 pin as this is the most overlooked part.However this is not the case here..are all these mods DNA/Yihi?Ive even seen this happen on Dicodes and found that the 510 is tarnished as some manufacturers use different Copper for their 510’s.
Buy a Tub of mother’s aluminum mag polish and with a Qtip polish it up to a luster

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 3


----------



## Timwis (2/9/21)

Mauritz55 said:


> The wire in mods do degrade or get hard after time And it will give higher resistance readings.
> The coil itself can not jump from 0.80 to 1.0.
> I normally calibrate my mods 2 times a year and also check my RTA’s and RDA’s post screws and 510 pin as this is the most overlooked part.However this is not the case here..are all these mods DNA/Yihi?Ive even seen this happen on Dicodes and found that the 510 is tarnished as some manufacturers use different Copper for their 510’s.
> Buy a Tub of mother’s aluminum mag polish and with a Qtip polish it up to a luster


@Viper_SA say's they are old mods and going by pictures he has posted on the forum I don't think they have premium chipsets but maybe he will respond to confirm!



Mauritz55 said:


> The coil itself can not jump from 0.80 to 1.0



that's why I asked if it was a bedded in build rather than checking resistance during doing the build because while doing a build it can easily jump around by these margins! Most times what the resistance is reading after installing my coil bares little resemblance to the resistance of my finished build and good to go!


----------



## Viper_SA (2/9/21)

Timwis said:


> @Viper_SA say's they are old mods and going by pictures he has posted on the forum I don't think they have premium chipsets but maybe he will respond to confirm!
> 
> 
> 
> that's why I asked if it was a bedded in build rather than checking resistance during doing the build because while doing a build it can easily jump around by these margins! Most times what the resistance is reading after installing my coil bares little resemblance to the resistance of my finished build and good to go!



Correct @Timwis, they are not what would be considered HE at all and o DNA or Yi Hi or such chipsets. I'm apprehensive about polishing the 510 pins in the mods, unless it can safely be washed out with a quick spray with contact cleaner.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## charln (2/9/21)

It’s like some dark science, this resistance thing 

I often see a variance between mods, for example when moving an atty with coils from one mod to another, without doing anything to the coils. And I’ve also seen a variance in atomisers, when I move a set of coils from one deck to another, using the same mod. I suspect it has to do with contact surfaces (screws, pins, etc) and conductivity differences, calibration, and possibly the way different mods read resistance. These variances are usually not large, and they are usually consistent and predictable. 

In general there shouldn’t be variation of more than + 10% or - 10% from the stated spec. This provides more than enough margin for variation in the hardware, and some variation in the coils. Variation in actual coil resistance (compared to the stated resistance) is a result of leg length, and minor normal (acceptable) variations in the wire, and the building/wrapping process. Once a coil is bedded in, the resistance should not fluctuate much, if at all, and certainly not more than + or - 5%, if left in the same deck and same mod.
Out of interest, when installing a new coil, it is quite normal to see the starting resistance lower than spec, then drop further as it is being pulsed and bedded in, it can drop to almost 50% below spec, before eventually settling very close to the specified resistance. 

This all applies to Nichrome wire, but for some alloys (like SS for example), the resistance of the coil will increase as the coil heats up, then decrease back to the specified resistance as it cools down.

Reactions: Like 5 | Informative 2


----------



## Stranger (2/9/21)

Timwis said:


> Most times what the resistance is reading after installing my coil bares little resemblance to the resistance of my finished build and good to go!



Could not agree more. I will use a calculator to try and give me some guideline and build accordingly and often when I first put it on the tab it will look way out. By the time you strum for hot spots, tighten screws, wick and bed in it has changed often very close to what the calc said. I find a variance of around 0.02 between my regulated mods. Mostly N80. I do find the comp wires to jump around quite a bit before they are bedded in.

If there is an enemy of chips, wires and anything electrical it is the heat up/cool down cycle

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (4/9/21)

Rob Fisher said:


> With the coil testing I have been doing recently I have discovered that different chipsets and different mods all give slightly different resistances to the same coil in the same tank. The coils with stainless steel in them give way different readings but that is because SS's resistance changes depending on the temp of the wire.
> 
> But these tests are with our Ni80 Coils
> DNA60 Stratum V7 - 0.46Ω
> ...



Outside of the fact that measurement of the decimals of an Ohm are challenging at best even in a laboratory environment with four wire sensing ... 
Not all conductive materials are created equal, and as most tank and mod connectors are made of a mix of plated beryllium-copper or phosphor-bronze materials attached in turn to stainless steel with varying amounts of nickel as an alloy, attached in turn to other nickel alloy coils or mesh heating elements, all of whose emf limitations are far removed from that of copper, weeeeeell ... welcome to the world of thermally induced voltage errors, aka the thermocouple effect.
I think it's bloody amazing that mod manufacturers can and do measure anything below an ohm with even the most vague modicum of accuracy

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 3


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (4/9/21)

Thought I'd add share some more information on the challenges of resistance measurement below an ohm:

https://www.camiresearch.com/Campaigns/Web-Articles/4-wire-testing.html

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## DougP (7/9/21)

If I may highjack this thread...it's kind of on similar lines...

Can different modes have different voltage outputs for the same wattage..

I have a Zeus X mesh RTA. 

On a Aegis Legend 2 it's shows 0.19 ohms, 46 watts and when its firing it reads 3.03 volts. 
If I then put same RTA on the Vaporesso Gen it also shows 0.19 ohms, 46 watts (running in VW mode normal setting). What I can't see is the voltage it is running at.

What is puzzling is that vape is distinctly different between these 2 devices on the same wattage/resistance setting. It's almost like the Gen is running at a higher wattage.

In order to get the vape comparitively the same I set the Aegis to 50 watts which is 3.17 volts on the display and the vape is almost the same then as the Gen at 46 watts 3.03 volts.

Using voltage and setting both mods to the same voltage has the same differential diversity in the vape.

So do different chipsets have different voltage/wattage relationships although according to ohms law they should be the same if the resistance is the same 


Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Stranger (7/9/21)

I don't have either of those mods, but I will bet that they may or may not have a pre heat or initial boost setting. I am not saying this is something you should or even can set. I first noticed this on my Puma when I was bedding in a coil and wick. As I was pulsing I could see the Volts changing even though I had a set wattage.

I then did a couple of builds to test this and used a mech build to build a coil and get the W. Then put it on the Puma at the calculated W. The initial boost kicked in every time.

I also questioned the dual versus single battery operation and how the DC_DC operation worked because that also throws out different results.

Also one other thing, where is the V being measured, you may have voltage drop before it gets to the 510 pin.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (7/9/21)

DougP said:


> If I may highjack this thread...it's kind of on similar lines...
> 
> Can different modes have different voltage outputs for the same wattage..
> 
> ...



Hi Doug,
You have boost and PWM circuitry on most if not all, barring mech mods. 
This means that the mods boost converter increases the battery voltage to whatever the designer decided on, (_to which there is no "standard maximum voltage", and that voltage is independent of whatever the battery voltage may be_). This voltage is then modulated by a pulse width circuit to an *effective* output voltage, NOT an actual voltage, the actual voltage remains at whatever the boost circuitry provides.

For example; A manufacturer may choose a boost voltage of say 10 Volts, (_raised from the batteries 8.4 Volts?_), and if, in the same example, you had set your mod for an output voltage of say 6 Volts, the micro controller would adjust the Pulse Width to 60:40, (_ie. on for 60% of a period, and off for 40% of the same period_), providing you with an effective 6 Volts.

The aforementioned boost circuitry also takes time to get up to it's operating voltage, which most mod manufacturers mention as switching time, and;
The operating frequency of the PWM circuitry too has a part to play in all this, where again, there is no standard, and mod manufacturers use whatever their designers believe is best.

I'm sure you now realise that mech mods and semi-mechs, (_mosfet assisted mech mods_), don't suffer from the aforementioned power on delays, and provide an actual voltage, which is why a lot of vapers prefer them.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Viper_SA (7/9/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Hi Doug,
> You have boost and PWM circuitry on most if not all, barring mech mods.
> This means that the mods boost converter increases the battery voltage to whatever the designer decided on, (_to which there is no "standard maximum voltage", and that voltage is independent of whatever the battery voltage may be_). This voltage is then modulated by a pulse width circuit to an *effective* output voltage, NOT an actual voltage, the actual voltage remains at whatever the boost circuitry provides.
> 
> ...



Rated _Informative _as there is no rating for Greek

Reactions: Funny 2


----------



## DougP (7/9/21)

Stranger said:


> I don't have either of those mods, but I will bet that they may or may not have a pre heat or initial boost setting. I am not saying this is something you should or even can set. I first noticed this on my Puma when I was bedding in a coil and wick. As I was pulsing I could see the Volts changing even though I had a set wattage.
> 
> I then did a couple of builds to test this and used a mech build to build a coil and get the W. Then put it on the Puma at the calculated W. The initial boost kicked in every time.
> 
> ...


I am seeing the voltage as displayed on the screen of the aegis legend. On the Gen I can't see voltage as the screen doesn't display it.


Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## DougP (7/9/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Hi Doug,
> You have boost and PWM circuitry on most if not all, barring mech mods.
> This means that the mods boost converter increases the battery voltage to whatever the designer decided on, (_to which there is no "standard maximum voltage", and that voltage is independent of whatever the battery voltage may be_). This voltage is then modulated by a pulse width circuit to an *effective* output voltage, NOT an actual voltage, the actual voltage remains at whatever the boost circuitry provides.
> 
> ...


Wow okay, so this gets quite complicated.

Lack of knowledge led me to believe that with VW mods there is a standard that they all would somehow be calibrated (or whatever brated) to have the same base levels and output levels, for example, according to ohms law : at the same resistance, or wattage the voltage should be the same.

I kinda saw it like a speedometer in a car, no matter what the make or model of car, 120km/h displayed should be 120km/h in actual as a standard across all manufacturers.

Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (7/9/21)

DougP said:


> Wow okay, so this gets quite complicated.
> 
> Lack of knowledge led me to believe that with VW mods there is a standard that they all would somehow be calibrated (or whatever brated) to have the same base levels and output levels, for example, according to ohms law : at the same resistance, or wattage the voltage should be the same.
> 
> ...



There are indeed standards and Ohms Law still holds true ... however;
The issues on stable accurate power delivery on our mods are numerous, but primarily hinged on a calculated EFFECTIVE voltage, whose input voltage is subject to manufacturing variances, along with the inability to accurately measure low resistances cost effectively, (refer to my earlier posting on this thread on the challenges of sub ohm measurements).

Incidentally your speedometer analogy holds true ... the rolling diameter of a vehicle tyre shrinks from new to worn out, providing up to a 10% over read error, couple that with a "at best" error of the meter et al and you have a similar scenario of some 10 to 15% over-read


----------



## DougP (7/9/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> There are indeed standards and Ohms Law still holds true ... however;
> The issues on stable accurate power delivery on our mods are numerous, but primarily hinged on a calculated EFFECTIVE voltage, whose input voltage is subject to manufacturing variances, along with the inability to accurately measure low resistances cost effectively, (refer to my earlier posting on this thread on the challenges of sub ohm measurements).
> 
> Incidentally your speedometer analogy holds true ... the rolling diameter of a vehicle tyre shrinks from new to worn out, providing up to a 10% over read error, couple that with a "at best" error of the meter et al and you have a similar scenario of some 10 to 15% over-read


And so I learn everyday. 
Thank you for the detailed feedback.

Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (7/9/21)

DougP said:


> And so I learn everyday.
> Thank you for the detailed feedback.
> 
> Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk



You're most welcome Doug 

I too initially thought that mods were more advanced than they actually are with respect to resistance measurement, and ... I also, (_incorrectly_), assumed that they simply used PWM on the battery voltage, until I physically plugged an oscilloscope onto a 510 socket and ... surprise ... noted a voltage way higher than the battery voltage 

I will add that most mods are not too far shy of miraculous in that they can, and do function with the level of accuracy that they do, certainly so taking into account their price point(s)


----------



## DougP (7/9/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> You're most welcome Doug
> 
> I too initially thought that mods were more advanced than they actually are with respect to resistance measurement, and ... I also, (_incorrectly_), assumed that they simply used PWM on the battery voltage, until I physically plugged an oscilloscope onto a 510 socket and ... surprise ... noted a voltage way higher than the battery voltage
> 
> I will add that most mods are not too far shy of miraculous in that they can, and do function with the level of accuracy that they do, certainly so taking into account their price point(s)


Lesson I am learning from this is that one really needs to do some in depth research when buying a mod. 
I guess what you see on the surface is not strictly what you get. 
I currently have 4 different manufacturers mods and the differences in the vape between them is distinctively different when tested using the same set of batteties and rta at the same wattage.





Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Stranger (8/9/21)

I pointed this out here @DougP 

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/a-coil-for-dvarw.t73743/

I like my Dvarw clones, I like my pot mods, NCV2 and MVV II, but I find I have to build to suit each one. So although the tanks are the same I need to build differently for regulated, pot mod or semi mech and as per the thread even individual mods

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 2


----------



## Viper_SA (10/9/21)

Okay, so I know these aren't exactly the best coils on the market, but here are my findings nonetheless. Decided to throw out the 0.7 ohm coils from @smilelykumeenit for something lower with a bit more oemph. I have a few of those assorted coil sets to try and find my sweet spot again, and my OCD requires that all my DL tanks have the exact same coil, so the fact that there are 6 coils of each and I have 5 tanks works out beautifully and much cheaper than using premium coils to try and find a sweet spot.

I decided to start out with these Vapefly coils (saving the Coilology coils for later as they seem of much better quality to my untrained eyes)




First up is the REV GTS mod with the coil installed in an OG Zeus single coil, and as can be seen it is spot on, on the advertised resistance of 0.45 Ohm




Next up the same coil on the Augvape V200 mod. Coil installed in a Serpent Elevate this time and giving the biggest deviation from advertised resistance showing 0.38 Ohm. Could this have something to do with the tank AND the mod, or is this down to mod only? Who knows




Then comes the Geekvape Nova, also in an OG Zeus showing 0.42 Ohm. Only a 0.03 Ohm deviation which I can live with.




Last but not least, also in two OG Zeus tanks on the Hohm Slice mods showing 0.43 and 0.42 Ohm respectively. Also a deviation I can live with.







As can be seen the biggest outlier is the Augvape V200. Not sure how much the fact that it's with a different tank influences this, but to me it shouldn't make a difference....

I will be doing the same comparison tomorrow night with all 4 of my Expromizer V4's on different mods. All running the White Collar MTL coils which claim to be 0.75 Ohm, but the legs do need to be bent open for the way the coil is installed. So watch this space tomorrow if you will.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Timwis (10/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> Okay, so I know these aren't exactly the best coils on the market, but here are my findings nonetheless. Decided to throw out the 0.7 ohm coils from @smilelykumeenit for something lower with a bit more oemph. I have a few of those assorted coil sets to try and find my sweet spot again, and my OCD requires that all my DL tanks have the exact same coil, so the fact that there are 6 coils of each and I have 5 tanks works out beautifully and much cheaper than using premium coils to try and find a sweet spot.
> 
> I decided to start out with these Vapefly coils (saving the Coilology coils for later as they seem of much better quality to my untrained eyes)
> 
> ...


0.42ohm at 35W on the single coil Zeus was how I religiously vaped by choice until the latest MTL revolution came along!

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Viper_SA (10/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> Next up the same coil on the Augvape V200 mod. Coil installed in a Serpent Elevate this time and giving the biggest deviation from advertised resistance showing 0.38 Ohm. Could this have something to do with the tank AND the mod, or is this down to mod only? Who knows



Actually just swopped around a Zeus and the Serpent between the Nova and V200. It's the V200 mod that gives that 0.07 Ohm difference. That's getting pretty close to 0.1 Ohm, which makes quite a difference to me...

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Puff the Magic Dragon (11/9/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I physically plugged an oscilloscope onto a 510 socket and ... surprise ... noted a voltage way higher than the battery voltage



You should find the buck/boost stuff interesting :

Reactions: Winner 1


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (11/9/21)

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> You should find the buck/boost stuff interesting :




It's a great video, however what he says of buck converters, (or PWM) is not entirely correct.
The calculation of a suitable capacitor to smooth out the average voltage is; C = I / (2 x f x Vpp) ... 
Now a quick calculation of typical operation PWM frequency and say a 10% duty cycle reveals that you would require a moer of big capacitor, (bigger than your mod), so mod manufacturers don't bother. 
What this means is that the AVERAGE voltage is indeed what is claimed, however the peak voltage and the peak current flow is in fact the battery voltage less any circuitry losses ... which is scary stuff!
Anyone doubting this should place an oscilloscope across their 510 connector whilst their mod is under load, and take a gander

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## Viper_SA (11/9/21)

As promised. Some more comparisons. All with White Collar MTL coils




Checked these on three Aspire Mixx mods and one Foxy One mod. There is one that shows way out at times on the Mixx, but then reads correctly on my Pico 21700. I have to say that particular Expromizer V4 does at times muck around. Suddenly showing "no atomizer" etc. Then I unscrew it, screw it back and it goes again. Sometimes several times a day, sometimes like once a week, so I don't read too much into that one odd-one-out reading. What I did notice by chance today is that at 20W and 0.98 Ohm se Foxy One should be firing at 4.4V approximately. It actually fires at 5.2V and then comes down to around 4.8V or thereabouts. Must a a chip boost thing? But still firing at higher voltage than expected by what calculators show it should be. It does that with multiple Expro's, so not an RTA issue.













As can be seen, two Mixx mods and the Foxy One shows just about the same reading, just that one Expro that spoils the party, but the vape isn't markedly different at all, so I live with it.

What is interesting is that these coils are my favorite MTL coils currently, and show ±0.75 Ohm with both legs pointing in the same direction. I certainly didn't expect the resistance to jump up to 1 Ohm just by opening up the legs so they are horizontal. In fact, I would have thought the resistance would drop due to less material? Or do I have it all backwards?

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Intuthu Kagesi (11/9/21)

Viper_SA said:


> As promised. Some more comparisons. All with White Collar MTL coils
> 
> Checked these on three Aspire Mixx mods and one Foxy One mod. There is one that shows way out at times on the Mixx, but then reads correctly on my Pico 21700. I have to say that particular Expromizer V4 does at times muck around. Suddenly showing "no atomizer" etc. Then I unscrew it, screw it back and it goes again. Sometimes several times a day, sometimes like once a week, so I don't read too much into that one odd-one-out reading. What I did notice by chance today is that at 20W and 0.98 Ohm se Foxy One should be firing at 4.4V approximately. It actually fires at 5.2V and then comes down to around 4.8V or thereabouts. Must a a chip boost thing? But still firing at higher voltage than expected by what calculators show it should be. It does that with multiple Expro's, so not an RTA issue.
> 
> ...



Your assumptions are indeed correct Viper_SA; 
The static resistance of a conductor will indeed be lower if said conductor, (coil), was shortened, however you are outside of the accurate measurement ability(ies) of your mod, which everyone seems to have noted, however no one is acknowledging , and if there are any other Electrical / Electronic Engineers on this forum? they can can chip in and add to the following;

As Electronic Components go, 1% is considered a special order resistor, to which most production resistors are typically a 5% tolerance, meaning the internal components of your mod, (_assuming they are indeed special order components_), are at best, much worse than the 0.1% accuracy that it seems Vapers expect  ... however most mods are mass produced in China {nuff said}

The above statement does not take into account stacked errors, or the issues I raised earlier with respect to measuring resistances below one ohm, (_aka four wire measurement_), along with the thermocouple effect of dissimilar metals used in a mod's construction, (_which at best would involve at least solder, and is real inside your mod_).

I could wax on for hours and include elements such as your mods respective Analogue to Digital Converter, which is expected to measure current via a mass manufactured low value high wattage resistor at the bottom end of a typically 16 bit processor architecture, meaning it's function is typically clamped to a maximum of 8 bits and yet you're expecting a resolution accuracy better than it's architecture allows for, namely a mere 3.92mV accuracy  which excludes all the aforementioned 

Bottom line ... Your mod's voltage, resistance and power readings are indicative only ... If you do wish to build accurately, then you will require a good
Ohm meter, (NOT multimeter), capable of the range, resolution and accuracy you wish to build to ... something a lot of Mech Mod Vapers do anyway.

Reactions: Like 2


----------

