# Help Needed - Nickel Builds



## Clouder (12/12/15)

Howzit inmates!

So I tried to build my very first nickel build just now. I have the Evic VTC and I'm curious about the TC so I wanted to give it a shot! Anyway, I'm used to Kanthal 26ga, which I usually gooi between 6 and 10 wraps. So I wanted to try Sub Ohm and TC at the same time.

I got myself 28ga Ni200 Nickel. Here's the thing... 

I went 6 wraps and came out on 0.13 Ohm. BUT, When I did a dry burn, bam! It just snapped off in the centre of the coil (in a matter of 2 or 3 seconds). Dayuuummmm! So I tried again, same thing!

So, I never even had a change to activate TC mode!

Can anyone maybe assist here? @shaunnadan ?


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## Yiannaki (12/12/15)

Clouder said:


> Howzit inmates!
> 
> So I tried to build my very first nickel build just now. I have the Evic VTC and I'm curious about the TC so I wanted to give it a shot! Anyway, I'm used to Kanthal 26ga, which I usually gooi between 6 and 10 wraps. So I wanted to try Sub Ohm and TC at the same time.
> 
> ...



You should should not be firing nickel builds in power mode buddy. Nickel doesn't need to be dry burned. 

Switch the mod over to Ni Mode first. Then put the atty/tank on the mod.

With regard to builds with 28g, I find the following to work really well.

Wrap the coil around a 2.5mm screwdriver
Count 9/10 wraps.

When wrapping the coils, you can make the wraps very wide from one another. Once you've got the number of wraps you want; using your nail, push the wraps up against the back of the screwdriver to compress them all together. 

The result will be a perfectly spaced nickel coil. 

Switch over to nickel mode on your vtc first.

-Throw on your tank or dripper.
-Set your temperature limit 
-Fire it a few times (it won't glow but touch it and you'll burn your finger)
-Wick
- Juice up 

And enjoy

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1


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## Kuhlkatz (12/12/15)

Only use Ni-200 in TC mode. You should never dry-burn TC coils in power mode except for Stainless Steel. Both Titanium and Ni-200 can emit poisonous gases above certain temperatures. Ti creates a poisonous oxide (powdery?) layer around the coil.

Once the mod is in TC mode, set a low temp and dry-burn it, then set it at a higher temp and dry-burn again before you wick. You can rinse it between it the burns if you like under a running tap. Most guys wipe the Ni wire with alcohol before they wick, just to give it a quick clean.
Ensure that Ni-200 coils are spaced as well.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Clouder (12/12/15)

Thanks for your reply @Yiannaki , I'll give it a shot!

Reactions: Like 1


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## shaunnadan (12/12/15)

Hey buddy 

@Yiannaki has given you the best advise towards building tc coils. Just follow those steps and you should have no hassles . 

Funny enough I built a nickel coil for my rolo last night and was 99% sure I setup the profile properly. So I get the coil installed and then pulse it (it won't glow but it does change color ever so slightly) and BAM ! Coil melted  

Doubled checked it for any shorts and then realized I forgot to set the temp for the profile. 

Rebuilt it and was all ok afterwards. 

The tc on the evic and dna200 are worlds apart once you get it setup properly.


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## Roy Pretorius (13/12/15)

Hi buddy,
You should rather use Titanium. Easier to work with, you don't have to do spaced coils, closer resistance to kanthal and much healthier. It has an awesome flavour. At present I have 4 tanks that I use in TC mode. If you want to know more about titanium coils, go to https://www.craftvapery.com/blog/joshs-definitive-guide-to-temperature-control-with-titanium-wire/


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## Roy Pretorius (13/12/15)

Kuhlkatz said:


> Only use Ni-200 in TC mode. You should never dry-burn TC coils in power mode except for Stainless Steel. Both Titanium and Ni-200 can emit poisonous gases above certain temperatures. Ti creates a poisonous oxide (powdery?) layer around the coil.
> 
> Once the mod is in TC mode, set a low temp and dry-burn it, then set it at a higher temp and dry-burn again before you wick. You can rinse it between it the burns if you like under a running tap. Most guys wipe the Ni wire with alcohol before they wick, just to give it a quick clean.
> Ensure that Ni-200 coils are spaced as well.



Titanium problem is very easy to overcome, provided you follow simple procedures.


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## Kuhlkatz (13/12/15)

The "only use Ni in TC mode" refers to what the OP was using, not as a recommendation to ONLY use Ni and never Ti or SS. 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## Clouder (13/12/15)

@shaunnadan @Kuhlkatz @Roy Pretorius @Yiannaki , What would you guys suggest is the ideal temperature to start off with?


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## shaunnadan (13/12/15)

Clouder said:


> @shaunnadan @Kuhlkatz @Roy Pretorius @Yiannaki , What would you guys suggest is the ideal temperature to start off with?




That's a good question and the answer is "depends on what build you have?"

Depending on whether it is a tank or dripper. Big coil or small coil, single or dual. You need to find a sweet spot that you like for the wattage and temperature. 

I recommend starting with 50% temperature (so if your mod goes to 315degrees) then use 160ish. 

It will be very low but you can gradually increase it. 

My current build on the rolo is 180degrees at 40w and its fine for me. The same tank with a kanthal build it 80w !

Reactions: Useful 1


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## Clouder (13/12/15)

@shaunnadan thank you very much, I'll try it out!

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