# A Machinist's Warning About New Tanks



## Alex

*A Machinist's Warning About New Tanks And "Machine Oil"*
Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by BShady, Today at 3:19 PM.

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* BShady  Full Member *
Joined:
Jun 16, 2014
Location:
Cincinnati, OH USA
*New* *The Problem*
To all those newcomers to vaping, as well as some who've been around a while:
I've seen/heard people mention, in the course of discussing the new RBA/RDA/RTA/Whatever they just got, that they can "see" or "smell" "machine oil" in or on some part of the apparatus. I would like to clear up a few things around this subject. If you don't care about any explanations and only want the solution, scroll down to the last paragraph.
As an experienced machinist, I am intimately familiar with the different chemicals used in different machining processes and their properties. Without expounding endlessly upon the various minutiae to look knowledgeable, I can condense the relevant information down to the following:
The only type of "oil" that may be found in/on a tank would be tapping fluid. This is a mildly viscous oil used to make cutting threads by the use of a tap or die less difficult and gentler on the tooling being used. This is somewhat unlikely to be present because (among other reasons) it is most commonly used when cutting threads by hand.
The stuff (let's keep it technical, here) that is often described as "machine oil" is, in fact, _coolant_. Nearly all CNC Machines come set up to use coolant, and many older manual machines were set up or retrofitted to use it as well. Coolant is a general term that encompasses a whole range of chemical additives in aqueous solution. Without delving into all the different types and their properties, there is a simple Golden Rule that we machinists use regarding coolant: "Avoid that .... as much as humanly possible." If contacted on skin in any significant amount it can/will cause a rather nasty rash - very much like poison ivy. If inhaled after being aerosolized, it can/will cause extreme coughing bouts, choking, dizziness, nausea, and even fainting. Contact with the eyes can/will cause severe (I mean SEVERE, no ....) irritation and pain, and can cause varying degrees of (varyingly) temporary sight loss. Bottom line, this stuff is nasty .....

*The Remedy*
The solution is very simple. Whether your shiny new RTA has tapping oil in the threads or a fine film of coolant residue all over it, the answer is the same. *DO NOT* wash it with water, or soapy water, or super-soapy water - this will not clean it to a standard we would consider sufficient for food or medical grade use (which is what we are using it as). You must clean the metal and glass parts (as for PCB parts, I can not vouch for them due to the huge variety of types of plastics in use by different manufacturers, but anything that will stand up to juice should be fine - YMMV) with an _*alcohol or ketone solvent*_. Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol) will work well, as will Acetone (commonly the main ingredient in nail polish remover, check the label). Both are naturally occurring in trace amounts inside the human body and both evaporate rapidly in normal ambient temperatures. All you need do is wet a cotton ball or two with the solvent of your choice (if you use a solvent not listed here you better know what you're doing) and use it to thoroughly wipe down your disassembled tank inside and out. It should not be necessary but, if desired, you can rinse with clean (ideally distilled) water and then leave on a towel to air-dry or dry with a hair dryer on low heat. Then reassemble, build, fill, and vape as per your usual.

This process will ensure that you get the absolute best taste production your tank can give you, as well as avoid any unpleasant side effects of the types I listed above.

Please understand that I take no responsibility nor accept any liability for your use or implementation of any portion of this information. Both alcohol and acetone are *highly flammable*, and thus care should be taken to not use them on a tank that is connected to a power source as well as making sure that any remaining solvent has evaporated before connecting to a power source. *Please, use UN-common sense and extraordinary care in your endeavors.

source: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...w-tanks-and-machine-oil.690952/#post-16217549*

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1 | Informative 12


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## Andre

Great information to have, thanks @Alex.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## BumbleBee

Alex said:


> *A Machinist's Warning About New Tanks And "Machine Oil"*
> Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by BShady, Today at 3:19 PM.
> 
> Watch Thread Ignore Thread
> Page 1 of 2
> 1 2 Next >
> Go to First Unread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * BShady  Full Member *
> Joined:
> Jun 16, 2014
> Location:
> Cincinnati, OH USA
> *New* *The Problem*
> To all those newcomers to vaping, as well as some who've been around a while:
> I've seen/heard people mention, in the course of discussing the new RBA/RDA/RTA/Whatever they just got, that they can "see" or "smell" "machine oil" in or on some part of the apparatus. I would like to clear up a few things around this subject. If you don't care about any explanations and only want the solution, scroll down to the last paragraph.
> As an experienced machinist, I am intimately familiar with the different chemicals used in different machining processes and their properties. Without expounding endlessly upon the various minutiae to look knowledgeable, I can condense the relevant information down to the following:
> The only type of "oil" that may be found in/on a tank would be tapping fluid. This is a mildly viscous oil used to make cutting threads by the use of a tap or die less difficult and gentler on the tooling being used. This is somewhat unlikely to be present because (among other reasons) it is most commonly used when cutting threads by hand.
> The stuff (let's keep it technical, here) that is often described as "machine oil" is, in fact, _coolant_. Nearly all CNC Machines come set up to use coolant, and many older manual machines were set up or retrofitted to use it as well. Coolant is a general term that encompasses a whole range of chemical additives in aqueous solution. Without delving into all the different types and their properties, there is a simple Golden Rule that we machinists use regarding coolant: "Avoid that .... as much as humanly possible." If contacted on skin in any significant amount it can/will cause a rather nasty rash - very much like poison ivy. If inhaled after being aerosolized, it can/will cause extreme coughing bouts, choking, dizziness, nausea, and even fainting. Contact with the eyes can/will cause severe (I mean SEVERE, no ....) irritation and pain, and can cause varying degrees of (varyingly) temporary sight loss. Bottom line, this stuff is nasty .....
> 
> *The Remedy*
> The solution is very simple. Whether your shiny new RTA has tapping oil in the threads or a fine film of coolant residue all over it, the answer is the same. *DO NOT* wash it with water, or soapy water, or super-soapy water - this will not clean it to a standard we would consider sufficient for food or medical grade use (which is what we are using it as). You must clean the metal and glass parts (as for PCB parts, I can not vouch for them due to the huge variety of types of plastics in use by different manufacturers, but anything that will stand up to juice should be fine - YMMV) with an _*alcohol or ketone solvent*_. Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol) will work well, as will Acetone (commonly the main ingredient in nail polish remover, check the label). Both are naturally occurring in trace amounts inside the human body and both evaporate rapidly in normal ambient temperatures. All you need do is wet a cotton ball or two with the solvent of your choice (if you use a solvent not listed here you better know what you're doing) and use it to thoroughly wipe down your disassembled tank inside and out. It should not be necessary but, if desired, you can rinse with clean (ideally distilled) water and then leave on a towel to air-dry or dry with a hair dryer on low heat. Then reassemble, build, fill, and vape as per your usual.
> 
> This process will ensure that you get the absolute best taste production your tank can give you, as well as avoid any unpleasant side effects of the types I listed above.
> 
> Please understand that I take no responsibility nor accept any liability for your use or implementation of any portion of this information. Both alcohol and acetone are *highly flammable*, and thus care should be taken to not use them on a tank that is connected to a power source as well as making sure that any remaining solvent has evaporated before connecting to a power source. *Please, use UN-common sense and extraordinary care in your endeavors.
> 
> source: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...w-tanks-and-machine-oil.690952/#post-16217549*


Thanks for this @Alex!

This is Gold!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Keegan

Thanks @Alex. 

I researched the type of alcohol to use and have to say I'm still not sure on which one however I do use:











Left for 30 minutes...until I remember to take it out. Followed by hot water wash.

What products do other Vapers use?

Specifically, would a heated ultrasound bath be just as good?


Sent from the moon of Jupiter

Reactions: Like 2


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## Rowan Francis

i use a cup of 80% alcahol mixed in with a dash of sunlight soap in hot water in my ultrasonic , cleans squeeky clean

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Alex

That stuff is great.


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## Xhale

he mentions acetone, and I'd like to unmention acetone because it dissolves abs plastic, and who knows what parts of the rda/tanks are made from abs or not.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## Alex

Xhale said:


> he mentions acetone, and I'd like to unmention acetone because it dissolves abs plastic, and who knows what parts of the rda/tanks are made from abs or not.



I found a good use for them 

http://www.instructables.com/id/100-Warp-Free-MakerBot-3D-Printing/

*Step 1: Put ABS Scraps and Acetone in a Jar*



The first step is to make a thin slurry of acetone and ABS plastic scraps (raft and support, and rejected objects you've printed). We all generate lots of scraps on our MakerBots. You can probably make a similar slurry with PLA and acetone, but I haven't tried it yet. Plus, PLA doesn't seem to have as bad of a problem with lifting and curing and warping as ABS does. I personally find PLA to be too brittle for my projects, since I usually make structural objects. Let the ABS scraps and acetone sit in the covered jar for several hours, and the ABS pieces should completely dissolve. You want to have a very thin watery solution.
*Step 2: Paint a Thin Layer of ABS Slurry on the Build Platform*



I use a Q-Tip to apply a very sketchy application of the ABS slurry to the build platform right on top of the Kapton tape just where the model is going to be built. It does not need to be a solid coat. In fact, if you apply a solid coat, it will actually be very difficult to remove your object from the build platform!
*Step 3: Print Your Object*



Print your object with NO RAFT, directly onto the ABS slurry-slathered build platform.

Now when you print your object, you will find that it DOES NOT WARP as it grows in thickness. SIMPLY AMAZING!

The ABS slurry creates a thin layer of ABS, sort of like the raft that ReplicatorG creates, which causes the ABS to adhere completely to the build platform. Even very long and very tall objects will build with no warping or curling at all!
*Step 4: Remove Your Object (This Can Be Tricky)*



The ABS slurry causes the object to stick to the build platform like a barnacle, so you will almost certainly need to pry it off. With large objects, you may need to peel off the Kapton tape. Be careful not to break your object!
*Step 5: There You Have It...100% Warp-Free and Curl-Free Free 3D Printing!*



It is hard to tell from this image, but I tried to show a view looking straight along the bottom edge of this long, thick object. Believe me, it is 100% straight with no curling, bowing or warping! Without this method, this object would have warped at least 1/4 of an inch on or more corners.


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## Xhale

used to use acetone and legos (or whatever other abs I could lay my hands on) to make custom facias for cars when fitting 7" touchscreens to them and mini-itx pc's in the boot.
acetone in a jar (like your post above) stick some legos into it, you end up with something you can mold and shape to fill in gaps and such in a few minutes/hours.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 2


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## Average vapor Joe

I would like to reccomend webcol wound prep wipes to clean the coolant


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## kev mac

Keegan said:


> Thanks @Alex.
> 
> I researched the type of alcohol to use and have to say I'm still not sure on which one however I do use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left for 30 minutes...until I remember to take it out. Followed by hot water wash.
> 
> What products do other Vapers use?
> 
> Specifically, would a heated ultrasound bath be just as good?
> 
> 
> Sent from the moon of Jupiter


50% alcohol


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