# I need help...



## Mender31 (24/5/17)

Hi guys

Ok so I've been waiting a while to make this post due to maybe sounding like an utter noob and because I wanted to make sure that it wasn't something I was doing wrong, which it most probably is, and now I've come to the point of frustration where I just don't know what I'm doing wrong.

I've been trying for about 4 months now to try and get a nice build that I can constantly redo on my rta that works and that doesn't "burn" so easily. But try after try I don't seem to be doing this right. I mostly do single coil builds because I'm a little wary of double coil builds due to not wanting to drain batteries in one day or like half an hour. I have a wismec predator and had a serpent mini for a while until I got fed up with the glass breakig on top of the coil giving a burning taste very often. Got myself a cleito 120 with rta coil setup. 

I've primary used ss316l wire 24ga and tried to build a .3 ohm coil which for a long time ran well but could never push the coil. Now I definitely know that there is something intricate that I'm not understanding but I've read a quite a few posts where people with the same setup I have being able to push their power well above 30 watts and still getting no burn. I then tried kanthal 24ga but basically only get 4 wraps in before the resistance gets to above what I want and it only last a few days before it got completely gunked, rewicked it and dry burnt all the crap off before I rewicked and immediately got that crappy burnt taste anyway. 

Now hopefully someone is reading this and thinking " geez ok he really doesn't understand the concept of building", but this is what I've gotten from online and it's said on those forums and sites and videos that most of these builds are supposed to be able to go beyond 30 watts. I have not been able to push my wattage above 29 watts for any of these builds at all.

Temp mode also seems like somethig you need a manual for and it also doesn't want to run on my mod when I use .3ohm builds...

I emplore you. Please help me. I really cannot go through this frustration every day and basically having to stop vaping and wait until I can rebuild again and then only finding that it's burning directly off the bat. I use mainly very fruity and sweet juices if that is something that contributes but also it's said that his only shortens the life span of your coils, not the limit at what you can vape. 

Thank you kindly for any help that you are willing to give me. And please go easy on me, I've only been building for the 4 months... 

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## Alex (24/5/17)

@Mender31 read this thread


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## Cobrali (24/5/17)

I use 26ga nichrome 80 single coil 7/8 wraps and i vape that at 28w on my HE setup, that is for my flavour build. For my rda i run dual 20ga ka 5wraps and i vape that at around 45w up til 80w. I guess each person needs to experiment and try..i am no expert but i find that experimenting will help you find your perfect vape..kanthal gunks up quick. Nichrome and stainless last longer but stainless is more for temp control cause i melted my stainless coil on a mech while dry burning..

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## craigb (24/5/17)

Don't be scared of dual builds, it just halves the resistance so you double up each individual coils wraps. 

Sounds like you have a wicking issue. What ID are you wrapping around? 

When you wick, the wicking material should be tight in the coil but should have a little play. You should be able to pull either side a bit without it moving the coil. If you stand the mod on the able and give the wicking a gentle pull, it should move slightly through the coil while the mod stays stationary (i always get caught out with this) 

Finally try experimenting with thinning out the ends of your wick, where they go into your juice ports. The juice port should be "sealed" so it doesn't leak but not jammed. If there is too much wicking it actually acts like a plug instead of the straw it's supposed to be. 

HTH

Reactions: Like 5 | Agree 1 | Winner 1


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## Yiannaki (24/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Ok so I've been waiting a while to make this post due to maybe sounding like an utter noob and because I wanted to make sure that it wasn't something I was doing wrong, which it most probably is, and now I've come to the point of frustration where I just don't know what I'm doing wrong.
> 
> ...



My advice would be to not be overly concerned with resistance. Just by looking at this tank I would say it's not really designed for very low resistance builds.

I'm not sure how many wraps you're doing on the 24g SS build but 4 wraps of 24 isn't enough in my opinion. There's barely any surface and this is why the coil won't go over 29 watts as it glows red pretty quick at that power I would assume.

My advice would be to grab something like 26g kanthal (if you really want to build single coil) then build a coil with more wraps. 7/8 if you on a 2.5mm coil if can fit it

Like the others said, don't be afraid to build a dual coil. Not that dual is necessarily better but it will allow you to put more power before the coils start glowing and 'burning'.

Coil building requires patience and willingness to experiment with different builds and wicking. 

Also on a side note, do you have budget to look at another RTA? 



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## Scissorhands (24/5/17)

The above is all good info

- on a regulated mod, dont stress too much on resistance (0.2 - 0.6 is a nice place to be)

- higher watts doesn't always = better vape (find the sweet spot for your coil)

- if simple wire single coil isnt giving the vape you want try clapton and/or dual coil

- the density of cotton in your coil, wick slots and coil inner diameter (ID) directly impact the wicking ability (and watts you can throw at it)

- rather then being concerned about resistance, play with surface area (more/less wraps)

................

If the same voltage is applied, a simple build and identical clapton build wich is more forgiving (less likely to dry hit) but demands a little higher voltage/time to get going due to the outer wraps acting as a heat sink


Thats my findings

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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

Yiannaki said:


> My advice would be to not be overly concerned with resistance. Just by looking at this tank I would say it's not really designed for very low resistance builds.
> 
> I'm not sure how many wraps you're doing on the 24g SS build but 4 wraps of 24 isn't enough in my opinion. There's barely any surface and this is why the coil won't go over 29 watts as it glows red pretty quick at that power I would assume.
> 
> ...


Thank you so much. I have some 24ga kanthal so I'm going to try a 7 or 8 wrap build and test what happens. 

I currently can save before I maybe sell the sperpent mini, although I don't think I'll be able to because it has a few scratches and a dent in the one juice flow opening due to trying to pry two parts off of each other. But what eould you suggest is a good rta? I would like something that is both dual and single coil capable like the ones i have now.

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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

Scissorhands said:


> The above is all good info
> 
> - on a regulated mod, dont stress too much on resistance (0.2 - 0.6 is a nice place to be)
> 
> ...


I'm running a 3mm ID atm and have trimmed the wick a bit as to not be too dence but maybe could take a littlw more out of the juice flow as to ensure it doesn't block it. 

But thanks again for the advice.

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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

Alex said:


> @Mender31 read this thread



Sorry @Alex it seems I cannot follow that link. Says unsupported media on my side. Could you maybr try again.

Thank you again!

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## Alex (24/5/17)

https ://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/40ens6/aspire_cleito_burnt_taste/?utm_content=body&utm_medium=post_embed&utm_source=embedly&utm_name=00b1a024bd82435880644c5d05994b35&utm_term=40ens6


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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

Put in a 8 or 9 wrap. Had a little trouble counting with the new way I'm wrapping coils with coil jiggs but can definitely see a difference. Bit worried to push it beyong thirty watts because I'm not sure if voltage capacity doubles in a series mod, which in my mind is how it's supposed to work but don't want to try pushing it past the 4.7V

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## Stosta (24/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Put in a 8 or 9 wrap. Had a little trouble counting with the new way I'm wrapping coils with coil jiggs but can definitely see a difference. Bit worried to push it beyong thirty watts because I'm not sure if voltage capacity doubles in a series mod, which in my mind is how it's supposed to work but don't want to try pushing it past the 4.7V
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk


Still using 24g Kanthal and a 3mm inner diameter @Mender31 ?


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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

I used the 24ga kanthal but went down to the 2.5mm ID. Packed the cotton same way I always did but made sure it wasn't filling the juice holes

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## Stosta (24/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> I used the 24ga kanthal but went down to the 2.5mm ID. Packed the cotton same way I always did but made sure it wasn't filling the juice holes
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk


Cool, so your coil should be reading around 0.7 or 0.8 if I'm correct?

You should be able to play with the wattage as you like, as the mod is regulated it will keep you safe in terms of your batteries. I imagine anything over 35W will start to give you dry hits though.


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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

It reads exactly 0.7ohm haha. Great stuff. That's actually all I wanted. Seems there is still a lot I must understand in terms of building before I can master it but thank you again to everyone for the help. I'll try a dual coil setup after this one to see what the capabilities are. Just need to stock up on juice first! 

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## Stosta (24/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> It reads exactly 0.7ohm haha. Great stuff. That's actually all I wanted. Seems there is still a lot I must understand in terms of building before I can master it but thank you again to everyone for the help. I'll try a dual coil setup after this one to see what the capabilities are. Just need to stock up on juice first!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk


Head on over to...

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html

And play around with your numbers there. This way you can figure out what wraps / wire / IDs will give you the resistances you're looking for.

It also has a battery safety section, so if you're very nervous about your batteries (as every person new to vaping should be) you can double-check on there. But as I said, strictly speaking your mod will keep you safe and you can do some pretty stupid things before you actually put yourself in danger.

Lastly, _*don't be embarrassed to ask more questions!* _Most of us started off knowing nothing and spent hours trawling threads when all you need to do is simply ask. It took me months to pluck up the courage to ask someone for help because I just couldn't get my head around battery safety. Eventually I bugged the heck out of @shaunnadan who patiently answered all my questions. If you just can't bring yourself to ask publicly you are always free to PM me with your questions, and I will answer where I can, or point you in the right direction where I can't.

Reactions: Like 6 | Informative 1


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## Mender31 (24/5/17)

Ok so... I've ran the 8 wrap coil the whole day, same wattage and just normally refilling the tank. Now I've noticed it works well. But I don't take long breaks between my vaping. So on the first two drags it will be ok flavour and still a little gurgle at the end. Then the drags after that are tasting burnt. Is that normal? I usually didn't have this problem when I was using my topbox mini and I chain vaped the hell out of that thing. And I haven't changed the wattage setting at all or anything. It just seems like this is out of the ordinary...

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## Alex (25/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Ok so... I've ran the 8 wrap coil the whole day, same wattage and just normally refilling the tank. Now I've noticed it works well. But I don't take long breaks between my vaping. So on the first two drags it will be ok flavour and still a little gurgle at the end. Then the drags after that are tasting burnt. Is that normal? I usually didn't have this problem when I was using my topbox mini and I chain vaped the hell out of that thing. And I haven't changed the wattage setting at all or anything. It just seems like this is out of the ordinary...
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk


According to the guys in the thread I posted earlier, it's an air pressure issue. Try unscrewing the top of the tank slightly. 

"The easy solution for me was to not wrench down on the top cap. I turn the delerin drip tip to tighten. Once it spins, I stop. No more burn, no leaks. The gaskets seem to be soft and pretty damn good."

Reactions: Agree 1


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## kev mac (25/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Ok so I've been waiting a while to make this post due to maybe sounding like an utter noob and because I wanted to make sure that it wasn't something I was doing wrong, which it most probably is, and now I've come to the point of frustration where I just don't know what I'm doing wrong.
> 
> ...


Have you checked YouTube for wicking tutorials?You can find one for almost every RTA .

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## Mender31 (25/5/17)

Thanx @Alex, I read through the thread and it seems like the commercial coil was what they were discussing but it definitely has a correlation with my situation so definitely worth a try. I just don't quite understabd what the guy means when he says if spins I stop. I just lossened the top cap and the part that connects to the top cap and used the top to tighten slightly. Hopefully this helps. @kev mac that will be exactly what I'll be doing today. If all else fails, then I'll try to sell and maybe move to a different rta. Someone recommended the obs engine nano, but he said not the engine normal at all. 

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## Stosta (25/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Thanx @Alex, I read through the thread and it seems like the commercial coil was what they were discussing but it definitely has a correlation with my situation so definitely worth a try. I just don't quite understabd what the guy means when he says if spins I stop. I just lossened the top cap and the part that connects to the top cap and used the top to tighten slightly. Hopefully this helps. @kev mac that will be exactly what I'll be doing today. If all else fails, then I'll try to sell and maybe move to a different rta. Someone recommended the obs engine nano, but he said not the engine normal at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk


Usually with an airlock the first one or two pulls are fine and then the dry hits start coming (as you said). So take those first few pulls with the cap on tightly, and then when it starts to give you dry hits, slowly start loosening the cap until you see little bubbles coming out of the juice inlets, this means that your coils are soaking up juice again and you can leave the cap at that point.

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## Mender31 (25/5/17)

Ok so what I have by chance discovered is that my wicking is somehow causing the issue and now after removing the old wick and rewicking it but much less packed and moving the wick throught the coil thereby thinning off what doesn't fit nicely it has suddenly stopped the airlock problem. Now everytime I vape after every pull one or two small bubbles appear from the juice holes, the gurgling sound has also disappeared and now it finally feels like it's working well. Thank you to everyone for their help, it really has made a difference.

I really enjoy the fact that everyone on the forum is so helpful and insightful. Really has been an amazing experience to finally have a group of people to interact with that can help with problems and also just have good chat about news and current happenings to even just having a laugh. 

I am however now like a hawk when it comes to my tank because I've become so paranoid lately with all of the leaking, burning and other issues. So basically every 5 min I pick up the mod to inspect anything that catches my eye. I already have the predators 510 connection to worry about so everyday is already feeling like a time bomb. But this has helped me a lot so thanks to all! 

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## Stosta (25/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Ok so what I have by chance discovered is that my wicking is somehow causing the issue and now after removing the old wick and rewicking it but much less packed and moving the wick throught the coil thereby thinning off what doesn't fit nicely it has suddenly stopped the airlock problem. Now everytime I vape after every pull one or two small bubbles appear from the juice holes, the gurgling sound has also disappeared and now it finally feels like it's working well. Thank you to everyone for their help, it really has made a difference.
> 
> I really enjoy the fact that everyone on the forum is so helpful and insightful. Really has been an amazing experience to finally have a group of people to interact with that can help with problems and also just have good chat about news and current happenings to even just having a laugh.
> 
> ...


Glad you came right @Mender31 !

A difficult experience will often lead to that sort of paranoia. I had that with the REO, so scared of every little thing that might go wrong I was constantly inspecting it. After a few hours of flawless operation though you will get over the need to keep an eye on it. So often I have had dry hits in my Subtank, and I'm left wondering why, only to find out it just needs a refill.

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## Mender31 (25/5/17)

Hahahahahahahaha that's brilliant! I'm glad it's not just me!

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## SAVaper (25/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> ....my wicking is somehow causing the issue and now after removing the old wick and rewicking it but much less packed and moving the wick throught the coil thereby thinning off what doesn't fit nicely...



I also discovered that less is more when it comes to cotton.

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## kev mac (25/5/17)

Mender31 said:


> Thanx @Alex, I read through the thread and it seems like the commercial coil was what they were discussing but it definitely has a correlation with my situation so definitely worth a try. I just don't quite understabd what the guy means when he says if spins I stop. I just lossened the top cap and the part that connects to the top cap and used the top to tighten slightly. Hopefully this helps. @kev mac that will be exactly what I'll be doing today. If all else fails, then I'll try to sell and maybe move to a different rta. Someone recommended the obs engine nano, but he said not the engine normal at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk


I can wholeheartedly recommend the Engine, I have all three and love the flavor,no leak and ease of wicking.The mini has a dual coil deck but singles are e-z to build on it.You can't go wrong with any of these.


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