# My wick keeps burning any advice



## reijnier (28/4/15)

My kanger subtank mini is coiled with 1.1 ohm coil and a long drag the wick keeps burning

Reactions: Can relate 1


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## kimbo (28/4/15)

How thick is the wick in the coil, maybe use a bit less wick


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

Ok I'll try that and get back to you thanks


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

As @kimbo said, you want to use a very small amount of wick and make sure that the juice channels are clearly visible when the chimney is screwed on - push the cotton against the sides (towards the coil) on both sides. 

I have cut down on the cotton I use in there quite a bit, to the point where there is just enough to hang down and touch the deck (no bunching up at all). 

Also, the SubTank RBA does not handle high VG juice at all well...you need to modify it for use with higher than 60VG juices (it really works best with 50/50 juice).

Reactions: Like 1


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

free3dom said:


> As @kimbo said, you want to use a very small amount of wick and make sure that the juice channels are clearly visible when the chimney is screwed on - push the cotton against the sides (towards the coil) on both sides.
> 
> I have cut down on the cotton I use in there quite a bit, to the point where there is just enough to hang down and touch the deck (no bunching up at all).
> 
> Also, the SubTank RBA does not handle high VG juice at all well...you need to modify it for use with higher than 60VG juices (it really works best with 50/50 juice).


Thanks I'm just made a coil with what sounds like too much over hang wil trim it and take a picture


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

￼should it look somethinglike this


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## RIEFY (28/4/15)

my channels are slightly modified






what id is your coil? if you have a very small id with very little wick you going to get dry hits while taking loooong hits. I have recommended this build and id to many and it works even with standard channels. i would take a file or knife and open the chanels slightly to make sure it wicks efficiently. it literally takes 5min and you good to go

Reactions: Agree 1


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> ￼should it look somethinglike this



That looks perfect 

If you still get dry hits, then there might be something in the juice channels...this happens sometimes. Take something small and scrape the channels to make sure there's nothing blocking the flow of juice

Reactions: Informative 1


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

free3dom said:


> As @kimbo said, you want to use a very small amount of wick and make sure that the juice channels are clearly visible when the chimney is screwed on - push the cotton against the sides (towards the coil) on both sides.
> 
> I have cut down on the cotton I use in there quite a bit, to the point where there is just enough to hang down and touch the deck (no bunching up at all).
> 
> Also, the SubTank RBA does not handle high VG juice at all well...you need to modify it for use with higher than 60VG juices (it really works best with 50/50 juice).


You seem to know the kanger subtank mini do you have any tips and tricks on how to screw the parts together and apart I broke one which was over tightened


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## RIEFY (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> ￼should it look somethinglike this


I have also found that spaced coils works much better in the subtank vs compressed coils

Reactions: Agree 2


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

I


RIEFY said:


> my channels are slightly modified
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would have to get a backup before doing something like that and sorry for asking what do mean by (id) noob question


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> You seem to know the kanger subtank mini do you have any tips and tricks on how to screw the parts together and apart I broke one which was over tightened



I'm guessing you mean unscrewing the chimney from the base on the RBA. For this it is very simple...never over-tighten it...just tighten until it stops. When trying to get it off the best is to grab the chimney as low as you can mange - i.e. as close to the where the threading is - and *turn very gently*, the more pressure you apply the less likely you are to get it loose. Of course you should first clean it off with a cloth. Oh, and hold the base by the part the 510 screws into - when it is being very difficult I actually remove the pin first.


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> I
> 
> I would have to get a backup before doing something like that and sorry for asking what do mean by (id) noob question



If you are using 50/50 juice there is no reason to mod the RBA - mine is still unmodified and runs flawlessly 

ID is the inner dimension of the coil - i.e. the thickness of whatever you wrap around


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

free3dom said:


> I'm guessing you mean unscrewing the chimney from the base on the RBA. For this it is very simple...never over-tighten it...just tighten until it stops. When trying to get it off the best is to grab the chimney as low as you can mange - i.e. as close to the where the threading is - and *turn very gently*, the more pressure you apply the less likely you are to get it loose. Of course you should first clean it off with a cloth. Oh, and hold the base by the part the 510 screws into - when it is being very difficult I actually remove the pin first.


Sorry I mean taking the rba apart


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## RIEFY (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> I
> 
> I would have to get a backup before doing something like that and sorry for asking what do mean by (id) noob question


ID = inner diameter of the coil......


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

O its two mil


free3dom said:


> If you are using 50/50 juice there is no reason to mod the RBA - mine is still unmodified and runs flawlessly
> 
> ID is the inner dimension of the coil - i.e. the thickness of whatever you wrap around


O I use two mil and 50 50 like it that way

Reactions: Like 1


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> O its two mil
> 
> O I use two mil and 50 50 like it that way



With that setup you should not be getting any dry hits...so it is most likely just due to the original wicking 

Hopefully your new wicking solves the problem, and if not try using even less - or use a pancake wick


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

Is there benefits in using the rope like wicks


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> Is there benefits in using the rope like wicks



Silica? They don't really work very well in RTAs. I stick to Japanese cotton almost exclusively in my RTAs 
But rayon works well too


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

Saw some at vapeking using the cotton that came with the kanger any thing to help with taste you get wen you just built coil


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> Saw some at vapeking using the cotton that came with the kanger any thing to help with taste you get wen you just built coil



The included pads are Japanese cotton, and it works really well 

However, if you want to have perfect taste immediately I'd recommend Rayon...it's perfect from the first toot, but it doesn't last as long. It's a trade off, and I much prefer the short "settling period" of the Japanese cotton and then having it last a bit longer. But give Rayon a try, it's a great wicking material

Reactions: Can relate 1


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

Will do thanks for all the help appreciat it solved the problem thanks

Reactions: Winner 1


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> Will do thanks for all the help appreciat it solved the problem thanks



You are very welcome, glad to hear it's working well now - I really love this tank


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

free3dom said:


> You are very welcome, glad to hear it's working well now - I really love this tank


The tank is awsome sorry for bothering again how long before you rebuild and rewick your tank I play on the safe side and do it every weak afraid of it dying on me


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> The tank is awsome sorry for bothering again how long before you rebuild and rewick your tank I play on the safe side and do it every weak afraid of it dying on me



The coil can go for much longer - I've run the same coil for more than a month...just dry burn it when wicking 

As for wicking, I replace it about every one or two tanks...depending on flavour changes. Light juices can last much longer with wicks though  But you can very easily go a week on a wick


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

free3dom said:


> The coil can go for much longer - I've run the same coil for more than a month...just dry burn it when wicking
> 
> As for wicking, I replace it about every one or two tanks...depending on flavour changes. Light juices can last much longer with wicks though  But you can very easily go a week on a wick


Thanks wouldn't want to be stuck without a coil


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## free3dom (28/4/15)

reijnier said:


> Thanks wouldn't want to be stuck without a coil



That's one reason I love this tank so much...I always carry a 0.5 OCC with me when I go out, so if my RBA coil/wick fails I can just pop that in and carry on vaping

Reactions: Agree 2


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## reijnier (28/4/15)

free3dom said:


> That's one reason I love this tank so much...I always carry a 0.5 OCC with me when I go out, so if my RBA coil/wick fails I can just pop that in and carry on vaping


I havent consider that

Reactions: Like 2


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## Rotten_Bunny (28/4/15)

There is an ointment for that you know !

Rotten Bunny

Vape The Planet !


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