# Coil rebuilders: resistance, wire, habit or deck?



## RichJB (24/8/16)

Hello all

I just wanted to check something with vet rebuilders: as per the above, what is your guiding priority when rebuilding coils? Just to explain the choices:

Resistance: I like coils which are xΩ so I'll always build to come out at that resistance.
Wire: I only use wire x, as long as it's that wire I'm happy.
Habit: I like a 6 wrap 2.5ID build, it works, I can do it in my sleep, that's what I tend to build.
Deck: I build to the airflow and post specifics of the deck.

I've come to be a "deck" type. Initially I only built with kanthal. Now I use kanthal, NiChrome and SS. I don't favour any specific resistance or coil type. But all my decks are Velocity posts. So I'll tend to look at both the post spacing and the size of the airflow slot, and try to find a coil that fits closely to that. Having to splay the legs out on a coil so that it will fit posts that are much wider than the coil just doesn't work well for me.

Also, when using Velocity decks, are you a "regular" or "reverse" builder? Regular = upper coil leg goes in upper Velocity slot, lower coil leg goes in lower Velocity slot. Reverse is the opposite. I used to be regular as that is how most of the YouTube reviewers do it. But now I always do reverse. Big ups to SirVape for that tip.


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## moonunit (24/8/16)

I think it also comes down to RDA, RDTA or RTA as well as the mod or battery you are using.

On smaller RTAs I will put in smaller single or dual coils, simple 2mm 26 kanthal or SS, for use on a single battery mod. Fairly high ohms for use at around 20-25 watts.

For bigger RTAs or RDAs I will go as big as the deck allows with a fused clapton or something that can take a lot of power with a triple high amp battery mod. Low ohms with fairly high wattage, 60-120watts.

Main thing I look at is, is my build within the safety limits of the battery/batteries being used.




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Reactions: Informative 1


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## RichJB (24/8/16)

@moonunit - interesting, so you will spread your power output anywhere between 20 and 120 watts? I tend to work within a much narrower range, usually 25-50W. I suppose that's because I started on single-cell mods <75W. But even now with a dual 18650 Invader, I tend to stay in the lower reaches of the output. I also generally use single coil builds. Over time, I guess I may develop a taste for higher-wattage vaping.


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## Kyli3boi (24/8/16)

Im in no way a vet builder but here is my input.

On my Tornado tank with t6 deck i use one of the following normally.

* Dual 26g 316l ss 3mm at around .3 ohm on 30w at 200c
* Dual 24g Kanthal 3mm at around .2 ohm around 40-50w


On my Goon clone i use one of the following normally.

* Dual Claptons 3mm at around .3 ohm 70-80w
* Dual 24g kanthal parallel 3mm at around .2 ohm 70-80w

I use 3mm because it just works for me and i have quiet big hands so its just easier for me to work with.
Always checking that my build is within the battery safe limits.


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## brotiform (24/8/16)

Fused claptons built according to deck size. generally 4-5 wraps on various ID.


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## Rob Fisher (24/8/16)

I am by no means a Vet Coil builder... 
Resistance: 0,7Ω to 0,9Ω on my REO's and lower on my RBA and RDA's.
Wire: I have found 26g Nichrome or plain Kanthal works for me.
Habit: For me on my REO's it's normally 6 or 7 wraps 1,5mm diam... 2 to 2,5mm on RBA and RDA's
Deck: The Divo has a very small deck and just enough space for a less is more rayon wick.

But am following this thread with interest because I still can't find a real happy place on my drippers... I really need to spend a day building and testing... I get frustrated with drippers and end up putting them down and picking up a REO, Melo 3 mini, Avo or one of my other RTA's.


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## brotiform (24/8/16)

Rob Fisher said:


> I am by no means a Vet Coil builder...
> Resistance: 0,7Ω to 0,9Ω on my REO's and lower on my RBA and RDA's.
> Wire: I have found 26g Nichrome or plain Kanthal works for me.
> Habit: For me on my REO's it's normally 6 or 7 wraps 1,5mm diam... 2 to 2,5mm on RBA and RDA's
> ...



May I suggest changing wire type for your RDAs , Grab a spool of demon killer fused clapton from sir vape , and 4-5 wraps on a 2.5 or 3mm ID , will be 0.2 ohm or less and should be perfect for your RDAs so you can fire them at solid high wattages.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Rob Fisher (24/8/16)

brotiform said:


> May I suggest changing wire type for your RDAs , Grab a spool of demon killer fused clapton from sir vape , and 4-5 wraps on a 2.5 or 3mm ID , will be 0.2 ohm or less and should be perfect for your RDAs so you can fire them at solid high wattages.



You may indeed suggest that... and I will do! Thanks!

Reactions: Like 1


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## RichJB (24/8/16)

@brotiform, what resistance do you get on your fused claptons? Is low resistance generally what you aim for?


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## brotiform (24/8/16)

RichJB said:


> @brotiform, what resistance do you get on your fused claptons? Is low resistance generally what you aim for?



Well I only use Griffins , Griffin 25s or my moonshot 24 , so yes. 

5 wrap using demon killer fused clapton with 2.5mm ID usually gets me at 0.19 to 0.21 ohm

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Jeez (24/8/16)

Kyli3boi said:


> Im in no way a vet builder but here is my input.
> 
> On my Tornado tank with t6 deck i use one of the following normally.
> 
> ...



@Kyli3boi when you check battery safety, do you use P=V^2/R ?

With your voltage being the nominal value of 3.7 V to get to a safe wattage value?

Please excuse my noobness.


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## Kyli3boi (24/8/16)

@Jeez with the builds stated above i am using them on a Cuboid which is a dual 18650 in series so the voltage can be higher. It also shows the amount of amps that you are drawing when you fire the mod so i am always checking that i am pulling less amps than the batteries can handle. Only when using my mech mod do i use the ohms law formula and physically calculate amp draw and i use 4.2v when calculating this because as voltage goes down so will the amp draw. i dont know if that answers your question as i dont fully understand exactly what you are asking.


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## Jeez (24/8/16)

The reason i ask is because on my pico with some coils it shows 4.6v for example.and its a single battery which I've heard should operate at 4.2v So im jus curious as to whether I'm endangering myself.


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## Jeez (24/8/16)

Okay i think i get it better now.


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## Maxxis (24/8/16)

I do three builds primarily. 

For single 18650 mechs I do one build that always works. Dual 5 wrap, 3mm ID NiCr80 in either 21ga or 22ga. This gives me around 0.1ohm load which is just perfect for my style of vaping. While this is too low according to the charts it is a perfectly safe for me. Don't drive it too hard either. Quick ramp-up and lots of vapor and flavour. 

For regulated mods and tanks. Micro fused claptons made up with 29ga cores and 36,38, or 40ga wrap. The amount of wraps and ID depends on the tank. 

For regulated mods and RDA's I love the 24ga or 26ga Fused claptons. Mostly wrapped with 34ga or 36ga. I always aim for around 0.3ohm to get nice surface area. 3mm ID is perfect for me. Amount of wraps, as many as will fit.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Kyli3boi (24/8/16)

@Jeez i am not sure how that is possible. i do not have the knowledge to tell you an exact answer but from what i know it should not go higher than 4.2v as the battery is only at 4.2v when fully charged. Try checking the voltage of the battery with a multimeter and confirm that the voltage the pico is seeing is the same as the battery voltage. As far as i know a mod can not step up the voltage. Maybe someone else can confirm this.


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## Andre (24/8/16)

Kyli3boi said:


> @Jeez i am not sure how that is possible. i do not have the knowledge to tell you an exact answer but from what i know it should not go higher than 4.2v as the battery is only at 4.2v when fully charged. Try checking the voltage of the battery with a multimeter and confirm that the voltage the pico is seeing is the same as the battery voltage. As far as i know a mod can not step up the voltage. Maybe someone else can confirm this.


Most regulated mods can step up the voltage.


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## Jeez (24/8/16)

Thanks @Andre and @Kyli3boi 

This isnt battery voltage. Its just the voltage displayed and changes when i change wattage.

Im assuming its related to draw or something similar


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## Kyli3boi (24/8/16)

Thanks @Andre i did not know that.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Charel van Biljon (24/8/16)

For me it also depends on the intended use for the system.
If I want to run a RDA with a nice deck my go to build is staged fused clapton with kanthal and SS and Ni80, ranging from 2.5mm to 3.0mm ID and again depending on deck and mod use, it will determine the number of wraps, but this is my GO TO RDA build, I use this in single or dual coil modes.
Ohms normally range from 0.09 to 0.18 on these. vaping between 55W-120W
For tanks, I prefer good old fashion clapton or even older, normal spaced SS coils, but always dual coil, cause a single coil in a tank just dont do it for me.
These almost always comes in between 0.18 and 0.3 ohms, vaping at 45W-75W


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## Gazzacpt (24/8/16)

Where do I start......
I suppose with airflow. The less air the higher the ohms need to be, more air the lower the ohms you can run. 
So if I have a fairly airy atty and can run a 0.2 ohm coil in there without the vape being to hot then its time to choose wire and gauge. I like having 6 to 8 wraps per coils because that feels to me where I get good wick coverage and a decent surface area. Then work out which gauge of which wire will get me into that parameter. 

This all becomes slightly less important with variable wattage and temp control. I mainly use mechs so thats my process.
With variable mods you can build a 0.3 ohm coil stick it in a low airflow rda and play with the wattage/temp until you find a satisfactory vape. On mechs you need to have tighter margins and build a coil to control your vape.

Hope that makes sense.

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Reactions: Like 5


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