# DNA 40 Board impressions and discussions



## Paulie (13/12/14)

Hey all,

I received a Vapor Flask DNA 40 5 days ago and i have been using it since then and thought i would create this thread to discuss the DNA 40 as well as builds and devices.

Over the next few days i will post detailed reviews and builds as well as information around the device i am currently using.

Its important for all people who get the DNA 40 to go and read this thread before you do as it takes alot of understanding as well as troubleshooting.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coil-builds/613433-dna-40-nr-nickel-builds.html

This is Evolve video on it:
http://www.evolvapor.com/shop.php

I have also attached the DNA 40 user manual since it doesn't come with one.

What i can say is that at first you will be frustrated but after a few builds you will be up and running.

Some of the information i will be discussing will be the following:

Device and known issues with it?
Quick fixes for the device
Using Nickel Ni200 wire
Understanding temperature control and how your device reacts to the build you have
Wattage and temp control interdependence
Quality of vape 
Testing your eliquids out to see how the are with temp control
Tips and tricks to temp control

Reactions: Like 6 | Thanks 1


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## Silver (14/12/14)

Thanks @paulph201 
Looking forward to your impressions
Am wondering about this temperature control and how useful it is - and what the Nickel wire is like

Reactions: Like 1


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## johan (14/12/14)

I'm looking forward to this thread @paulph201.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Marzuq (14/12/14)

Awesome @paulph201 this is a really good idea and will prove very informative for anyone getting this mod. Looking forward to reading your reviews

Reactions: Like 1


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## ET (14/12/14)

go paul go


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## Paulie (15/12/14)

The Vapor Flask DNA 40 "Authentic"

Since i had seen this product surfacing on the internet and also noted that all the Youtube Reviewers were all using and raving about them i immediately added this onto my wishlist. When the DNA 40 came out i knew that it would be the perfect time to get both. Unfortunately the VF sells out in minutes once they are released and i was unable to obtain one with lots of frustration!! I then found one to my surprise and waited patiently for it to arrive! The only time i was this excited for a mod was the first time i ordered my Reo Grand from Reomods!.

Then the package arrived 







I then decided to test and use the mod in normal mode and found that the build quality was among the highest level i have witnessed for a mod.











2 x 18650 battery's in series can be used however only the following ones (vtc3, 4vtc and vtc5s) The others wont fit inside.

I*ssues known with the device

510 connector cables to close to each other*
I experienced this issue and immediately emailed VF and got a very quick response and info on how to fix this. I was asked to remove the screws witch was very easy and push the negative (white cable) below the positive (red cable) down. This was showing me the error sometimes (shorted) Once i moved the cables the device works 100% and i was pleasantly happy with the service i recieved from vapor flask.

*Initial impressions so far*
This device is one of the best mods i have ever used. The buttons are well built and the battery life is exceptional good and i have been using mine for 3 days continuous and it still got 1/4 battery life. I think the DNA 40 board is helping alot also.

If you looking a a awesome design and a well built device i would highly recommend this device.

I will explain the DNA 40 in my next part of the review.

Reactions: Like 6


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## Silver (15/12/14)

Thanks @paulph201 , great to see 
Just letting you know I saw you said Vapor Shark in the top of your post !

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Paulie (15/12/14)

Silver said:


> Thanks @paulph201 , great to see
> Just letting you know I saw you said Vapor Shark in the top of your post !


lol !

love Monday mornings 

thanks for the tip bud

Reactions: Like 1


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## prodigyX (29/12/14)

@paulph201 what an amazing looking device! I'm so amped to experience the DNA 40 goodness. Where did you order it from?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Paulie (29/12/14)

prodigyX said:


> @paulph201 what an amazing looking device! I'm so amped to experience the DNA 40 goodness. Where did you order it from?


Hey man I got mine off eBay


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## prodigyX (29/12/14)

Awesome! I'm thinking of giving the Vapor Shark rDNA 40 a try, but I've always been nervous of ordering expensive stuff from overseas


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## Paulie (29/12/14)

prodigyX said:


> Awesome! I'm thinking of giving the Vapor Shark rDNA 40 a try, but I've always been nervous of ordering expensive stuff from overseas


Great stuff check out @KieranD I know he is bringing them in


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## prodigyX (29/12/14)

Cool thanks!


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## stevie g (5/1/15)

@paulph201 When will you have the review up?. I've been checking this thread in anticipation everyday!.


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## Paulie (5/1/15)

Sprint said:


> @paulph201 When will you have the review up?. I've been checking this thread in anticipation everyday!.



Hey there 

I'll post it up on Wednesday FYI


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## Arthster (5/1/15)

Awesome stuff @paulph201. Really enjoy reading your finding.


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## stevie g (7/1/15)

so @paulph201

how does it compare to other reg boards?


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## Paulie (8/1/15)

Hey all


Sorry im late with this but this start to the year been really busy!

So the DNA 40 .....

*Nickel 200 wire*
After receiving this wire from Ebay i played with it to see how strong it is and flexible. Straight from the start you realize how soft it is and how difficult it will be to use to build with as its very flimsy! I order the 28G and used it on my first build.

*DNA Build*
The first time i built a coil with this my DNA 40 would not work and immediately began to think my device was faulty! I then decided to do some research and saw that there is only one way to build with this wire and then decided to build the following setup:

2mm ID 6 ugly coil wraps and screw the build onto a different device and then fire it at 10watts .

Its important to not touch the coil once you have it on the atty.

After i wicked it and put it back on the flask and then it gave me the DNA 40 option (new coil or old)

I then setup the temperature to 450 F and then it worked very well.

Some of the things i really like about the DNA 40 is the stepdown, 40 wattspower and the screen menu options. Also the flavour is defiantly better and the vape is colder also.

*Issues with DNA 40*
I noticed that the board.

There are a few known issues with v1,2 and 3 but i heard 4 is alot better!
scrammed screen
dna 40 keeps reading voltage not temp
keeps giving dry hits


here a link to read on all the know issues

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coil-builds/613433-dna-40-nr-nickel-builds-15.html

*
Summary*
In short if you were to ask me the question should i go buy the DNA 40 now my answer would be *no* as its important to know the results and testing being done in the USA at the moment and also future technologies coming out. However in the future i defiantly see us all using temperature control and there even talk about them doing it through the 510 and not the atty so ppl will be able to use kanthal instead of nickel!

Hope this helps ...

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 1 | Thanks 1


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## stevie g (8/1/15)

Thanks @paulph201 
That is exactly the sort of view I was looking for, I desperately wanted a DNA40 chip but seems they are still ironing it out to perfection. I also like the point you made of wiring straight to the 510 to enable kanthal use. I'm happy with my IPV2 V2 for now. 

Can't wait for this technology to go widespread as it is the next level. Hope china manages to clone the technology in the next two years because that is how long I will hold onto my box mod before the next upgrade.

I find it amazing that I used to be into upgrading computers and gaming but now I've left that behind but Vaporizing has definitely filled the gap. Love that it is a new technology that is going to be evolving at speed for the next few years at least.

Guys like you make this an awesome place.

Reactions: Like 3


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## Alex (9/1/15)

Just discovered on reddit.

Properly building on a DNA40 (self.electronic_cigarette)

submitted 8 hours ago * by redbeard10838/2010

If you experience issues with dry hits, underperformance, or your device won't stay locked on temperature control mode this if for you. I posted this in another thread, but thought it deserved it's own thread since I've been seeing a lot of people having issues with their mods. Let's get to it.

i've built a bunch of these chips so far. i got some first batch chips that were defective and it was a pain in the balls. since then i've had no issues once i got the hang of the conditions required for it to perform well. in my experience, the chip not locking onto temp control was a result of my build, not the chip performing incorrectly.

one thing to look at before you explode with rage is your coil build. If it's not perfect, your experience will undoubtedly suck. first thing to check are the screws. when i say screws, i mean the screws holding the coil to the deck as well as any screw that holds the atty together including adjustable 510 screws on the bottom of the atty. loose screws create internal resistance that really throw this chip for a loop. remember, you're dealing with such low resistance that things that would be unnoticeable on a kanthal build are magnified to the point of ruining your experience on this. here's some examples of attys that drove me nuts: 1. Lemo - I hated this thing at first. It read my 0.15ohm coils at 0.45 or three times the resistance it was. I got tons of dry hits. I had to take it apart and tighten down EVERYTHING and that problem went away. 2. Kayfun. Same misread on the coil due to an adjustable positive pin on the 510 connection. Tightened it up and it was perfect. 3. Any RBA where I didn't have a perfectly tightened post screw.

if that doesn't resolve your problem, time to inspect your coils. shorts aren't really picked up by this chip. it's so good at down regulating that it can (and I have) fire shorts without catastrophic failure. the best way to build is to wrap (as riptrippers would call it) a "standard" coil meaning the wraps are not touching. my technique is to wrap them very loose, once i have all my wraps, i just pinch it together and let it spring back. you should end up with nice, evenly spaced wraps with minimal effort. once you have your coil installed, turn off temp control, turn down your wattage, fire it til it's slightly glowing....basically enough to see if its heating up evenly. turn temp protection back on, wick it, enjoy it.

tanks are a total pain in the ass. if your wick isn't absolutely perfect, it will underperform on vapor production and 20 watts won't feel like the 20 watts you're used to on a kanthal build because your wick isn't getting juice to the coil fast enough, not cooling the coil, and quickly hitting the temp limit. i have an orchid that drove me insane for a few days trying to get it to work right. basically you have to get it to a point of being about to leak to get the best performance. i have a good wick in one right now that i'm able to rip at 25 watts set to 450 degrees without temp limiting....I'm in love with it so much my wife gets jealous. my advice would be to start with RDAs just to get the hang of it. building on a dna40 is like learning how to build all over again.

this might go without saying, but use steam-engine.org to calculate your builds. you want to be able to see that your target ohm is what your device is actually reading...or very close to it...within 0.02ish ohms. this can help you rule out internal resistance of the atty interfering with your experience.

as far as the nickel wire goes, in my experience, the only gauges you should buy are 28 and 30. anything thicker than 28 requires an insane number of wraps. even though the resistance is super low, the chip will down regulate. 2 volts on a huge number of wraps will be a shit vape. anything thinner than 30 is impossible to work with. for a single coil i've had good experiences with 0.2 ohm 28 gauge coils. duals i aim for 0.12ohm with the 30 gauge.

essentially evolv has put in zero effort in explaining how to actually use this thing which is probably why you've seen no reviews from the more popular youtubers as everyone is trying to figure out what to actually do with it. once i figured these things out, despite hating building with nickel, the DNA40s I've built have been working as they should. good luck!

_edit_ added more details/examples.
_edit2_ thanks for the downvotes, keep them coming, bitches.

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/2rt3x8/properly_building_on_a_dna40/

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 2


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## Paulie (9/1/15)

Alex said:


> Just discovered on reddit.
> 
> Properly building on a DNA40 (self.electronic_cigarette)
> 
> ...




Great find @Alex but for now i will still not use my dna40 as its way easier the other way lol

Reactions: Like 1


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## Andre (9/1/15)

Alex said:


> Just discovered on reddit.
> 
> Properly building on a DNA40 (self.electronic_cigarette)
> 
> ...


Wow, thanks @Alex. Far too involved for me....will stay with @paulph201's recommendation for the time being.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Imthiaz Khan (9/1/15)

Great review and info @paulph201. Thanks bro

Reactions: Like 1


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## Alex (10/1/15)

*DNA40 Coil Build in Pics*
Created 4 hours ago · 13 images · 390 views · stats



First off, pics were done with a decent camera with my new fantastic lens. Click them to zoom in. Here's the build we're doing. 0.12ohm dual coil with 30 gauge. 13 wraps on a 2.5mm bit.



Here are the tools. Having two bits are important for dual coils. after you install the first, installing the second is a ***** without it. If the lead off the second coil stabs the first one, it can deform it.



Here's 13 "loose" wraps for lack of a better word. Looks sloppy, but we'll fix it next.



Pinch the coil in and release.....



Boom! Some evenly space decent looking wraps.



Make two!



Install them! I take the leads through the post hole, up, and throw a wrap around the top of the screw. Slowly tighten until the coil feels secure. You will snap several before you get the feel for it.



Take a resistance reading. I aimed for 0.12 and ended up with 0.13. Close enough.



Turn off temp protection, turn down the wattage! If you leave it high, it will pop the coils almost instantly. As you can see there are no hot spots and they're heating up evenly from the middle. Good stuff. Don't forget to turn temp protection back on.



Wick it and juice it. Also, notice the size of these coils. This is 30 gauge and they look huge....because they are.



As you can see, even with 40 watts, it's pretty angry. Set to 450 degrees, it doesn't even trip the temp limit in use until it starts to dry out.



I'm not much of a dripper and prefer the convenience of tanks, but this setup makes clouds. (Plume veil, flip the barrel upside down, chuff top). The mod itself is a build I did last weekend in the fasttech mini enclosure. Two 600mah lipos in parallel makes for crappy battery life, but for the overall size and this dripper, it's pretty impressive for the size. Cost in parts is about 120 bucks. For ease of build and versatility, the 18650 enclosure is much, much better.



THE COCK STRIKES AGAIN!

Reactions: Like 3


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## b1scu17 (14/1/15)

Day one with the rDNA 40 went GREAT... Day two... not so much 

Literally all of a sudden last night it just gave an INTENSE burnt taste... Vaped at 220C, 22W all afternoon and boom, suddenly it just went crazy on me.
Just wanted to sleep so I left it.
This morning still the same result.

I've rebuilt this thing at least 13 times now and something is still wrong 
I've tried 2 and 2.3 mm coils, spaced and contact coils, adjusted the center pin of the squape to make sure it's making contact, tried less wick, more wick, less wraps, more wraps, taken out the battery so it clears any memory and I'm out of ideas now...

NOTHING I try seems to work? 

It either tastes bad or pretty much instantly hits temperature protection even when it's completely cooled down and EVEN when is set as low as 7W??? I would take the wick out to see if it did actually burn and sometimes there is an every so slight discolouration if any at all

Yesterday my first try was instant success on the first try. Tried repeating that exact same process but it just doesn't work. The temp protection keeps getting triggered

Here's my latest coil. 
I am seeing a tiny drop of liquid that leaked through the center pin onto the mod's pin. I'm thinking maybe that could be messing up the readings. Busy adjusting it now to see if it helps. 
Problem is screwing it far into the squape makes it lose contact with the mod's pin 
[facepalming like a baws]

Reactions: Like 1


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## Alex (14/1/15)

These DNA40 boards sure seem very temperamental. Why not just stick to kanthal for now and leave the temp control?


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## b1scu17 (14/1/15)

Alex said:


> These DNA40 boards sure seem very temperamental. Why not just stick to kanthal for now and leave the temp control?



Just my luck... I don't have any kanthal anymore LOL

I'll have to go purchase some 


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## b1scu17 (14/1/15)

UPDATE:

I took an extra o-ring from the spares I got with my Squape Reloaded and also put it over the centre pin and screwed it out quite far. It seems to have sorted out the problem I had of the atty's resistance jumping around.
When I got the burnt taste and stuff the resistance was still stable so I still have no clue why it freaked out on me.

One thing I also noticed is that when I had it in celcius mode and tried turning it off by raising the temp till it said "OFF", it would still actually be on. I would fire it and it said "Temperature Protection". I switched to Fahrenheit and then turned it "OFF" and it actually turned off. I couldn't replicate the problem though. Most of the time it would successfully turn off when doing it from celcius. Probably just a rare bug

Things seem stable for now... Touch wood 

So if anyone has similar problems, check the centre pin of the atty pushes firmly against the mod's pin. Mine was touching but seems it really needs to push against each other to be stable. At least the Squape R has an adjustable pin.

Reactions: Winner 1 | Informative 1


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## b1scu17 (15/1/15)

Another update... lol

Touching wood didn't work  haha

It didn't take long and I got the "temperature protection" error but I think I'm making some interesting discoveries. More related to using this Squape R with the DNA 40. This might apply to SOME other atty's out there, I don't know... Maybe someone will find this with a Google search or something and save them some frustration. I Googled like crazy for others using the DNA 40 with the Squape but not much is popping up

I built a 2mm spaced coil with ten wraps and the resistance was jumping around like crazy.  I think this is also what caused the temperature to disappear completely. I was ready to pull my hair out but I just can't give up.
So I know I stabilised the connection between the mod and atty's pin...
Next, it seems that the coating on the deck of this Squape clone isn't entirely non-conductive.... not really surprised... It is DEFINITELY doing something that the DNA 40 is NOT enjoying!

I would normally just let the coil rest inside the deck's channel and the wire would make ever so slight contact with the deck. So I took a super tiny flat screwdriver and VERY carefully lifted the wire away from the deck so it doesn't make any contact with anything other than the positive and negative posts. The nickel is very soft so if you're not careful it will mess up the coil.
Before this step, the resistance would jump between 0.2 and 0.45 with every press of the fire button. After it dropped to 0.13.

Couple of vapes in and it's still stays at 0.13 ohm and the temperature on the display is also not climbing anywhere near as fast as before!

This probably won't apply to an original Squape but with so many clones in the wild things like this is bound to happen...

One step at a time I suppose...

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## WHeunis (15/1/15)

b1scu17 said:


> Another update... lol
> 
> Touching wood didn't work  haha
> 
> ...



That was the reason I didnt trust the Squape clones...
Sure, they're good enough for Kanthal builds (mostly), but with something as dangerous as unprotected battery shorts, one can never be too sure!
A lot of people on FT have reported that the coating is slightly conductive (as you mentioned it made the DNA40 go apeshit), and others have even reported the coating just coming off halfway through a tank of juice, leaving completely exposed conductive metal out in the open and makes it an almost nearly useless device at that point.

But it sure does seem that these DNA40's are temperamental. For good reason too...
The way that the chip is able to regulate temperature, is that it isn't really measuring temperature at all.
It's actually reading and monitoring the slight resistance changes that Ni200 goes through when it heats up.
Ni200 is sensitive enough to heat, that it's resistance changes to even the slightest variation.
So if you have ANYTHING wrong with your build, mod, or anything that isnt near perfect = DNA40 will have a fit.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Silver (15/1/15)

Hi @b1scu17 

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the DNA40 and your Squape clone
I admire your perseverance and determination
Hope you get it right for good and can enjoy all the benefits of the temp control

As a matter of interest, have you tried a different atty?


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## b1scu17 (15/1/15)

WHeunis said:


> That was the reason I didnt trust the Squape clones...
> Sure, they're good enough for Kanthal builds (mostly), but with something as dangerous as unprotected battery shorts, one can never be too sure!
> A lot of people on FT have reported that the coating is slightly conductive (as you mentioned it made the DNA40 go apeshit), and others have even reported the coating just coming off halfway through a tank of juice, leaving completely exposed conductive metal out in the open and makes it an almost nearly useless device at that point.
> 
> ...



Yeah, didn't expect this from the decks at all...
With all the Googling I saw someone say Evolv didn't give a whole lot of info about how to really build good working nickel coils so it's up to the users to try different things and see what works and what doesn't. lol

Seems like the atty buying days aren't over LOL.... Will it ever be



Silver said:


> Hi @b1scu17
> 
> Sorry to hear about your troubles with the DNA40 and your Squape clone
> I admire your perseverance and determination
> ...



I sold my mech mod, battery, charger, kanthal wire and Kayfun 3.1 clone to a friend to get some money back that I spent on the rDNA

I absolutely LOVE being able to rebuild without draining the liquid so I'm thinking of maybe getting a Kayfun 4 and seeing whether it works better with a nickel build. I did see someone say to open up the juice control all the way as it also seems to mess up the resistance with nickel build if it's not fully opened. Whether that's only a clone problem, I don't know.

I think I would've wasted so much more juice if I had to rebuild on another atty that required me to drain the juice everytime.

I was very surprised that the Kayfun 4 original also cost like $180

Oh well... With great power comes great responsibility... to make sure your nickel build is perfect

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## b1scu17 (17/1/15)

So yesterday I bought a Kayfun 4 and tested the nickel.

First coil in, I obviously didn't clean the atty enough and got a SLIGHT machine oil taste LOL thoroughly cleaned it after that

The Kayfun 4 also has it's snags with nickel which seems to originate from the juice control, although it apparently also happens with Kanthal builds.
You really have to make sure the juice control is open all the way and makes full solid contact. If the juice control opens and the deck gets raised the resistance changes or jumps around.

I also noticed similar things with the Kayfun's centre pin and the nickel. With both the squape and the kayfun 4, if the centre pin is screwed out a little and it can wiggle, it throws the resistance off at times. Screwing it in all the way in so it cannot wiggle at all made the resistance stay put or in the case of the squape I put it an extra o-ring, screwed it in tight against the o-rings so it's sticks out further but can still seal, preventing leaking and doesn't wiggle at all.

Super happy with the rDNA40! You just have to figure out the things with your atty that can make things unstable

Reactions: Informative 1


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## andro (17/1/15)

b1scu17 said:


> So yesterday I bought a Kayfun 4 and tested the nickel.
> 
> First coil in, I obviously didn't clean the atty enough and got a SLIGHT machine oil taste LOL thoroughly cleaned it after that
> 
> ...


i will post later a build with nickel on my kayfun v4 with photo . i dont know what size wire is but is very thin and flimsy . done a twisted coil and worked very well


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## b1scu17 (17/1/15)

andro said:


> i will post later a build with nickel on my kayfun v4 with photo . i dont know what size wire is but is very thin and flimsy . done a twisted coil and worked very well


Nice! Looking forward!

Would like to hear if you have experienced the same things with the centre pin and juice control.

I don't mind these things, it's just a mission trying to figure everything out lol
Especially with nickel being far less forgiving than kanthal


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## Paulie (17/1/15)

I have got a DNA 40 yesterday v4 I will rebuild and test again and give feedback since v4 supposed to be less glitches


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## andro (17/1/15)

b1scu17 said:


> Nice! Looking forward!
> 
> Would like to hear if you have experienced the same things with the centre pin and juice control.
> 
> ...


no problem with center pin and the block doesnt move at all 
im using the pallas kayfun v4 than @kimbo gently sent me to try out . and im really happy with it . 
this is the build with twisted nickel wire show 0.22


on the meter and 0.19
on the vaporshark .




japanese cotton 



i must say the flavour of this thing is amazing .

Reactions: Like 2


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## andro (17/1/15)

paulph201 said:


> I have got a DNA 40 yesterday v4 I will rebuild and test again and give feedback since v4 supposed to be less glitches


what does v4 mean ? do you know which one we have in the vaporshark?


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## Paulie (17/1/15)

andro said:


> what does v4 mean ? do you know which one we have in the vaporshark?


yes my flask has v2 and the shark has v4 in it

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Gazzacpt (18/1/15)

This is going to be interesting, as I understand it the nickel wire acts as part of a thermo couple and a dodgy connection or some material that has a resistance change due to heat could throw off a reading. So things like the nautilus with a sprung 510 could pose a problem.


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## Paulie (29/1/15)

Hey all,

Here a very good Youtube clip around the DNA 40 debate!


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## Bill (3/2/15)

Very informational video, thanks for posting @Paulie. I really want a dna40 device but will all these issues not sure if I should wait. 

To the dna40 owners, In normal with kanthal, how is the vape, has anyone experienced issues in non temp mode?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Richard (3/2/15)

Bill said:


> Very informational video, thanks for posting @Paulie. I really want a dna40 device but will all these issues not sure if I should wait.
> 
> To the dna40 owners, In normal with kanthal, how is the vape, has anyone experienced issues in non temp mode?


I'm very happy with my vaporshark It vapes like a dream in non temp mode (I have some ni200 incoming soon to try the temp mode ).

Reactions: Agree 1


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## dekardy (3/2/15)

Bill said:


> Very informational video, thanks for posting @Paulie. I really want a dna40 device but will all these issues not sure if I should wait.
> 
> To the dna40 owners, In normal with kanthal, how is the vape, has anyone experienced issues in non temp mode?



None whatsoever. I bought a Vapor Shark rdna 40 simply because I was looking for a small box mod that can take an 18650, has proper step down with a DNA board. Sure we can probably argue on the size but it's certainly a lot smaller than a SVD 2.

Been using a Nautilus, both normal and mini, Atlantis, Orchid v3, Kayfun Lite, Kayfun 4 and a Subtank mini on it and its a pretty awesome little device. The Subtank Mini being my absolute favorite.

The temp sensing works ok using the aspire temp sensing coils. I say OK because I build a ni200 coil on the subtank mini RBA and it's certainly much better. It's better because of the better airflow on the subtank, I think. That said I did have some issues on the ni200 build today but I think it's because I was playing around too much. I think that you need to build the coil, let it cool down to room temp put it on the VS or rather DNA40 and then leave it and let it do it's thing.

Back to you question the DNA40 with kanthal without temp mode work as you would expect. The board is very efficient wrt to battery usage. As an example the LG 2500 mAh lasts me well over a day were an efest 3100mAh ran out on other devices late at night.

Hope that helps somewhat.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Informative 2


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## Bill (8/2/15)

Thanks for the 


Richard said:


> I'm very happy with my vaporshark It vapes like a dream in non temp mode (I have some ni200 incoming soon to try the temp mode ).





dekardy said:


> None whatsoever. I bought a Vapor Shark rdna 40 simply because I was looking for a small box mod that can take an 18650, has proper step down with a DNA board. Sure we can probably argue on the size but it's certainly a lot smaller than a SVD 2.
> 
> Been using a Nautilus, both normal and mini, Atlantis, Orchid v3, Kayfun Lite, Kayfun 4 and a Subtank mini on it and its a pretty awesome little device. The Subtank Mini being my absolute favorite.
> 
> ...



Thats a great help, thanks for the info @dekardy and @Richard, I'm going to try and source a couple boards and give it go. I have a VaporShark dna30 which I would like to retrofit into a dna40 and another idea for a box mod


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## dekardy (8/2/15)

@Bill , if your able to get some boards let me know please cause I would be interested in getting one too.


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## Bill (9/2/15)

Sure, will do 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## WHITELABEL (20/2/15)

Too funny not to share

Reactions: Funny 3


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## VandaL (25/2/15)

Just bought a clone flask v2 from the mob because it was going super cheap. Wonder how hard it will be to mod it with a DNA40 chip once its fixed.


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## Paulie (7/3/15)

Hey all!

Here some of Phil latested detailed discussions on the DNA 40 boards

Reactions: Like 1


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## WHeunis (7/3/15)

Paulie said:


> Hey all!
> 
> Here some of Phil latested detailed discussions on the DNA 40 boards




I feel for Phil.
I cannot imagine having to publicly rip into a FRIEND'S device features the way he just did...

People don't understand how much the friendship between Phil and Brandon weighs, but he bit down hard and spat it out the way it is.

I have a newfound level of respect for Phil after this. I am not 100% sure that I would have carried that particular weight as well as he did...


That said, I always knew how finicky the Ni200 builds were; That is no surprise to me, but the "refinement" thing is definitely news to me.
My biggest questions lay with that "refinement". If there is a problem with it, and they do solve it a month or 3 from now, what happens then? Will they release a firmware update? Is that even possible with the DNA boards?
As far as my knowledge goes, the DNA board does not have a direct USB interface to the board, only power input from USB. (i think that sentence looks wobbly, but the idea is there... i think it is?)
I don't imagine very many international customers are going to be willing to pay those kinds of shipping fees to ship their mods back to Evolv or their agents to "get it fixed".

The screenfuzz problem sounds like a factory fault issue. Anything in mass production suffers those. I don't understand why people don't just return the product when that first started happening to them...
The battery display thing though is probably a programming error, as is the "getting stuck" in whichever mode. Again, how will they push this fix to the public once they solve it?

That is the *main issue* that bothers me...

Reactions: Like 1


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## Silver (7/3/15)

I agree with your comments @WHeunis 
Spot on

What I liked about this video is that it explained the whole thing to me carefully so I can be more informed. 

While I am excited about temperature control and do think it has a great future, i am not keen on experiencing the glitches he did. Not now at least. I think I will pass for now and watch it develop.


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