# Do you REALLY need a 521 Tab?



## Zebelial (19/10/16)

Hi guys,

I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.

I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now


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## Soutie (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.
> 
> I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now



For a Mech MOD... absolutely. No need for one if you have a regulated mod though, can just use the mod to check if your build is correct.
All depends on what mod you are building for.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## BumbleBee (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.
> 
> I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now


A building platform like the 521 Tab is a "nice to have" but by no means necessary, if you have a good regulated mod that can display your coil resistance then you're pretty much set.

Reactions: Agree 6


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## ettiennedj (19/10/16)

Hi @Zebelial , I build on a Lemaga Ohm meter , think it cost me like 150-200 bucks. Only reason for this is to get accurate read of the resistance and it's a nice stable base to build on. The 510 Tab's are however better due to the bigger size which makes it a very stable base and you can pre-fire the coils on the tab but I prefer to fire on a mod. Gluck with the building!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Zebelial (19/10/16)

Well that's good news for my pocket lol. I have a istick 60w and only use it up to 40w. BUT I will be upgrading that to smok alien mod or the Wismec 2/3

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk


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## Zebelial (19/10/16)

ettiennedj said:


> Hi @Zebelial , I build on a Lemaga Ohm meter , think it cost me like 150-200 bucks. Only reason for this is to get accurate read of the resistance and it's a nice stable base to build on. The 510 Tab's are however better due to the bigger size which makes it a very stable base and you can pre-fire the coils on the tab but I prefer to fire on a mod. Gluck with the building!


Well that a lot more agree able. Thanks man gonna be some good trail and error going on but hey... All part of the fun  

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## Andre (19/10/16)

My 521 Tab is so inaccurate that I have to use a regulated mod to check resistance. Still handy as a stable base and to dry fire coils.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 6


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## GregF (19/10/16)

Andre said:


> My 521 Tab is so inaccurate that I have to use a regulated mod to check resistance. Still handy as a stable base and to dry fire coils.



Yup same problem. Basically use mine for the same purpose.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Spydro (19/10/16)

Andre said:


> My 521 Tab is so inaccurate that I have to use a regulated mod to check resistance. Still handy as a stable base and to dry fire coils.



I have two 521 Tab's, two other atty ohm checkers that cost far less. The 521 is a nice enough base to build on, but I have many other "decks" that cost far less to do that with that are even more stable. 

Agree with @Andre, they not very accurate (my two don't even always give the same value). As said a regulated mod will be more accurate. But when I really want balls to the wall dead accuracy I use a little Fluke 101 that is always sitting handy on my desk.

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 3


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## Zebelial (19/10/16)

Spydro said:


> I have two 521 Tab's, two other atty ohm checkers that cost far less. The 521 is a nice enough base to build on, but I have many other "decks" that cost far less to do that with that are even more stable.
> 
> Agree with @Andre, they not very accurate (my two don't even always give the same value). As said a regulated mod will be more accurate. But when I really want balls to the wall dead accuracy I use a little Fluke 101 that is always sitting handy on my desk.
> 
> View attachment 72191


So for accuracy use an ohm meter that should be available at hardware shops. Glad I'm not 100% fussy. If I can get to 0.25 to 0.35 I am happy. Thanks for all the replies and comments guys. Awesome as always

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## Spydro (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> So for accuracy use an ohm meter that should be available at hardware shops. Glad I'm not 100% fussy. If I can get to 0.25 to 0.35 I am happy. Thanks for all the replies and comments guys. Awesome as always
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk



I'm not overly fussy either. But I am a dedicated sub ohm vaper, and with that comes the need to know. Especially when I build super low sub ohm coils I do want pretty exact accuracy when an error could push a high drain batt's amp draw into the red zone.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Disagree 1


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## Rob Fisher (19/10/16)

Spot on advice from everyone! I have had three 521's (2 authentic and one clone) and I must say they have been a big disappointment... I no longer use them...

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Zebelial (19/10/16)

Spydro said:


> I'm not overly fussy either. But I am a dedicated sub ohm vaper, and with that comes the need to know. Especially when I build super low sub ohm coils I do want pretty exact accuracy when an error could push a high drain batt's amp draw into the red zone.


Point taken. Maybe one day when I'm big I'll try that but for now I'm good playing it safe. I'm still noobing around 

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## RichJB (19/10/16)

If you build on your mod, just be sure to turn it off first. Accidentally firing the mod while holding the coil in place with your finger is a mistake you'll only make once.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 3 | Can relate 3


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## BrizzyZA (VapeLife) (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Point taken. Maybe one day when I'm big I'll try that but for now I'm good playing it safe. I'm still noobing around
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk



I found that super low ohms like 0.10 and lower is overrated. You should just find your happy place which is 0.50 ohm clapton for me

Reactions: Like 2


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## Rob Fisher (19/10/16)

RichJB said:


> If you build on your mod, just be sure to turn it off first. Accidentally firing the mod while holding the coil in place with your finger is a mistake you'll only make once.



You are not a vaper until you have the coil branding... just do it once and get it over and done with!

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2 | Funny 3


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## zadiac (19/10/16)

Rob Fisher said:


> You are not a vaper until you have the coil branding... just do it once and get it over and done with!



Totally agree. Same with having a bike and no exhaust scars to show for it. I have mine. Also, you haven't ridden a horse properly if you haven't fallen off at least once

Reactions: Funny 1 | Can relate 1


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## Chukin'Vape (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.
> 
> I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now



I second what @BumbleBee said here, by no means do you need a 521 or any coil building block as part of your starter pack. TBH - I still dont have one, I personally always build on the mod that the tank will be sitting on. However you learn pretty quickly (after you burn your finger for the first time) that the mod needs to be switched off whilst building.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Christos (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> So for accuracy use an ohm meter that should be available at hardware shops. Glad I'm not 100% fussy. If I can get to 0.25 to 0.35 I am happy. Thanks for all the replies and comments guys. Awesome as always
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk


@Spydro I could never get a resistance read with a cheap Chinese meter until I used a fluke. 
Cost half a kidney but I needed a reliable cat III meter anyways.


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## M5000 (19/10/16)

The Coilmaster 521 uses a 18650 and it's inconvenient to have to worry about a batt for it. As a base I don't like it that much because if the atty is not super tight it constantly moves. My screen and fire lght work intermittently. If you get another brand with an alternate power option it's probably worth a try but I wouldn't buy the Coilmaster tab. There is definitely no NEED for it and your tool kit should come with the basic one - it's usually cheaper to get the kit than buy everything separately anyway.

Just want to add that I use my Evic VTC Mini mostly and it's accurate enough. They go quite cheap and I would get a Evic VTwo and a 18650 for about the same price as the tab and a batt.


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## KZOR (19/10/16)

Have had mine for about three months and used it less than 5 times ....... all in the first few weeks.
I just remove a battery (after in burnt myself of course and destroyed 3 Ni builds ) and build on a TC mod.
Will be doing the same once my Sheamus mech arrives. Do the build on a TC mod, test it and move it to the mech.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Zebelial (19/10/16)

KZOR said:


> Have had mine for about three months and used it less than 5 times ....... all in the first few weeks.
> I just remove a battery (after in burnt myself of course and destroyed 3 Ni builds ) and build on a TC mod.
> Will be doing the same once my Sheamus mech arrives. Do the build on a TC mod, test it and move it to the mech.


Sweet. Luckily I'm only using a TC mod for now. Not interested in a mech mod... Yet 

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## KZOR (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Not interested in a mech mod


Just wait till I get mine and send you a photo of the setup.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Zebelial (19/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Sweet. Luckily I'm only using a TC mod for now. Not interested in a mech mod... Yet
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk


Lol oki doke 

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## kev mac (20/10/16)

Zebelial said:


> Point taken. Maybe one day when I'm big I'll try that but for now I'm good playing it safe. I'm still noobing around
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk


Use the cash for a new mod or tank perhaps?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Boktiet (20/10/16)

I must admit that I have the geekvape tab in the kit i bought. I use it as a base for the 22mm tanks as the Pico and Vtwo are just a little unstable. For my bigger custom coil builds I build on the Rx200s as the single battery tab is also a little shy when firing coils that need to run higher than 80w. Personally I can live without it, but it is nice to have.


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## LynkedZA (13/1/17)

RichJB said:


> If you build on your mod, just be sure to turn it off first. Accidentally firing the mod while holding the coil in place with your finger is a mistake you'll only make once.



LOL its a mistake even the best of us have made at least I figured it was on before the coil warmed up


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## zadiac (13/1/17)

In short. No. Not at all.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## GerritVisagie (13/1/17)

@Zebelial if you really want one, check out vapeshop.co.za, they have them now for R199.

But like most of the guys say, it's not a necessity at all. 
I bought one for my mech builds as I don't trust my kangertech to distinguish between 0.25 and 0.24.
But in a regulated mod, that won't kill you


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## Zebelial (13/1/17)

GerritVisagie said:


> @Zebelial if you really want one, check out vapeshop.co.za, they have them now for R199.
> 
> But like most of the guys say, it's not a necessity at all.
> I bought one for my mech builds as I don't trust my kangertech to distinguish between 0.25 and 0.24.
> But in a regulated mod, that won't kill you


Cool thanks man. 

I have been building on the mod itself. And it is a regulated mod and it has been working good so far. I will still have a look at the website you added in your post. 

Thanks for the response  

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## JW Flynn (13/1/17)

LOL, I have one of those old ohm readers that I don't even use anymore. The detection from mods nowadays is just so good. and simply just build directly on the mod, Locking it in advance of course, hehe.. Forgot to do it once, was busy spacing the coils, pressed the button by accident and the wire just burnt right off, coil sitting on the screwdriver and leads still in the RDA... hehe...

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1 | Can relate 1


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## Caveman (13/1/17)

I always figured that since I will be using the mod, I might as well build on it, at the end of the day, if you don't trust the reading on your mod (you know the one you raise to your face to vape with), then perhaps you should consider a new/better mod. So no, no need to spend money on one.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


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## JW Flynn (13/1/17)

Think they are more valid if you predominately use Mech Mods. in that case and if you do not have a regulated mod that you can use for measuring the resistance, then you need some sort of ohm reader. you cannot build mech without it, too dangerous! batteries will start popping if you don't make sure no shorts exist and that your coils don't exceed the capabilities of your batteries.... So for Mech users, sure why not, but there are definitely cheaper alternatives out there... just saying

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Paulie (13/1/17)

Any Regulated mod is just perfect for what you need

Reactions: Like 1


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