# Condensation, tips and tricks



## Stranger (10/3/21)

Are there any, tips and tricks for condensation ...

or is is something we live with. My Dvarw clones push out a fair amount of condensation out of that single air intake. Mods like my Rincoe Manto and NC end up with a fair amount of moisture on them if I do not wipe them from time to time. The tube devices seem to fare better.

The Blotto can also push a bit out of those bottom air intakes.

Do you have this issue ?

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## DarthBranMuffin (10/3/21)

I dont get that on my top airflow RTA's and RDTA's, but that is just due to the air intakes being a way off from the mod surface. Same with my RDA's as well.

On my Dvarw's I get it when I sit and chain vape, but not enough to match what you are describing. 

Shado Omni I have noticed condensation on the inside of the Airflow, but nothing pushing out onto the mod. 

The MTL RTA's with bottom airflow also not, they stay clean all around.

As condensation is directly moisture vs temperature related and we work with Liquid and Heat every time we vape, I dont think there is much you can do to completely avoid it.

As for tips and tricks, keep a hanky in the pocket and take your tanks off your mods when tucking them in at bedtime.

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## Munro31 (10/3/21)

You live with constipation, just look at Jai Haze, what a trooper. Oh....

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## Stranger (10/3/21)

Maybe because I have the biggest air intakes on them, that might have an influence. I also don't have my coils too close. I see some guys do about 1 mm, I am about 2 mm

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## Intuthu Kagesi (10/3/21)

What you want is some of these to help. (Ask @ARYANTO nicely ).
Whilst they don't mop up the top of your mod, they certainly stop any condensation and eliquid going down your 510 connector, and they prevent scuffing on both your tanks and mods.

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## Hooked (11/3/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> What you want is some of these to help. (Ask @ARYANTO nicely ).
> Whilst they don't mop up the top of your mod, they certainly stop any condensation and eliquid going down your 510 connector, and they prevent scuffing on both your tanks and mods.
> 
> View attachment 224601



Or just use those white rings that go on one end of the battery. I've used that before.

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## zadiac (11/3/21)

Since I moved to top airflow RTA's, I've never had a problem with leaking or condensation....but...the moron that designed the single fill hole in the Dead Rabbit V2 RTA should be shot. He should be shot now, before he designs something else.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 3


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## Intuthu Kagesi (11/3/21)

zadiac said:


> Since I moved to top airflow RTA's, I've never had a problem with leaking or condensation....but...the moron that designed the single fill hole in the Dead Rabbit V2 RTA should be shot. He should be shot now, before he designs something else.



Take off the top cap and drill another small, (1-2mm), hole directly opposite the existing fill hole for air to escape, and be done with your problem


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## zadiac (11/3/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Take off the top cap and drill another small, (1-2mm), hole directly opposite the existing fill hole for air to escape, and be done with your problem



Um....you need to go look at the design of that atty. There's no place to drill another hole my friend


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## Timwis (11/3/21)

DarthBranMuffin said:


> I dont get that on my top airflow RTA's and RDTA's, but that is just due to the air intakes being a way off from the mod surface. Same with my RDA's as well.
> 
> On my Dvarw's I get it when I sit and chain vape, but not enough to match what you are describing.
> 
> ...


You don't get condensation with top airflow because most cases of condensation is leaking! If it comes out the airflow slot then how would that be condensation?

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## Intuthu Kagesi (11/3/21)

zadiac said:


> Um....you need to go look at the design of that atty. There's no place to drill another hole my friend


That's a pity ... I only have it's predecessor, (which doesn't have the problem), but I'll make a point of examining one when next I'm in a vape store that has one, (unless you could post some pics of the internals?) 

EDIT: It seems you may be able to do as I suggested after all
With the fill port in the "fill position", drill through the drip tip opening and into the top cover with a small, 1mm?), drill bit, (_the hole only needs to allow air to escape whilst filling_). this way the hole will be exposed when filling, (via the drip tip), and closed off when the top cap is slid shut.

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## DarthBranMuffin (11/3/21)

Timwis said:


> You don't get condensation with top airflow because most cases of condensation is leaking! If it comes out the airflow slot then how would that be condensation?



true, and you dont have a "cooler" mod surface close to the air intakes where negative air (purging or even just breathing slightly) pushes the hot moist air from inside the heated tank back out the inlets onto the surface of the mod where it condensates (especially metal cased mods).

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## Timwis (11/3/21)

DarthBranMuffin said:


> true, and you dont have a "cooler" mod surface close to the air intakes where negative air (purging or even just breathing slightly) pushes the hot moist air from inside the heated tank back out the inlets onto the surface of the mod where it condensates (especially metal cased mods).


Whenever i get "condensation" after using very dark e-liquid and mop it up the liquid stains the tissue dark, then it occurs to me, that's e-liquid!

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## Timwis (11/3/21)

Timwis said:


> Whenever i get "condensation" after using very dark e-liquid and mop it up the liquid stains the tissue dark, then it occurs to me, that's e-liquid!


You can get spots of condensation with cold meeting hot but if it's more than a few spots it's leaking!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## zadiac (11/3/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> That's a pity ... I only have it's predecessor, (which doesn't have the problem), but I'll make a point of examining one when next I'm in a vape store that has one, (unless you could post some pics of the internals?)
> 
> EDIT: It seems you may be able to do as I suggested after all
> With the fill port in the "fill position", drill through the drip tip opening and into the top cover with a small, 1mm?), drill bit, (_the hole only needs to allow air to escape whilst filling_). this way the hole will be exposed when filling, (via the drip tip), and closed off when the top cap is slid shut.
> View attachment 224727



Hmmm....didn't think of that. Ok, will have a look. Will reply here. Thanks.

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## Stranger (12/3/21)

Timwis said:


> You can get spots of condensation with cold meeting hot but if it's more than a few spots it's leaking!



Mine is definitely condensation. I see on the tube mods that when I take a draw a small amount of vapour escapes through that single air intake. Maybe because of the way I draw or maybe because I have a 2mm gap between the coil and insert, and the largest insert, but all of my Dwarv clones do the same. In saying that I set them up all the same, so at least there is consistency. I seem to remember @Rob Fisher mentioned in a post that he does get condensation from his Dwarv army.

I will live with it. The Dwarv clones are my go to for the ADV. I now have 2 x V2 and 2 x DL FL. All clones and although there are slight differences I just find the convenience of the 6 ml tank, the ease of build and the consistency in relation to my DIY juice to be on point for me.

If T shirt sleeves are good enough for a snot nose, then T shirt tails are good enough for a bit of condensation.

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## Timwis (12/3/21)

Stranger said:


> Mine is definitely condensation. I see on the tube mods that when I take a draw a small amount of vapour escapes through that single air intake. Maybe because of the way I draw or maybe because I have a 2mm gap between the coil and insert, and the largest insert, but all of my Dwarv clones do the same. In saying that I set them up all the same, so at least there is consistency. I seem to remember @Rob Fisher mentioned in a post that he does get condensation from his Dwarv army.
> 
> I will live with it. The Dwarv clones are my go to for the ADV. I now have 2 x V2 and 2 x DL FL. All clones and although there are slight differences I just find the convenience of the 6 ml tank, the ease of build and the consistency in relation to my DIY juice to be on point for me.
> 
> If T shirt sleeves are good enough for a snot nose, then T shirt tails are good enough for a bit of condensation.


Yes he did but then at the same time he was dismantling Dvarws because of sticking fire buttons etc and confirmed it was e-liquid, lol!

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## Intuthu Kagesi (13/3/21)

zadiac said:


> Hmmm....didn't think of that. Ok, will have a look. Will reply here. Thanks.



It seems Hellvape beat me to the proposed solution ... The pic below is of the MD which has the same type of sliding top cap, and they use a 2mm grub screw to attach the top cap, which has been drilled out at, (_best guess somewhere between 0.8 and 1.2mm?_), to alleviate air locks when filling

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## Timwis (13/3/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> It seems Hellvape beat me to the proposed solution ... The pic below is of the MD which has the same type of sliding top cap, and they use a 2mm grub screw to attach the top cap, which has been drilled out at, (_best guess somewhere between 0.8 and 1.2mm?_), to alleviate air locks when filling
> 
> View attachment 224817


Most slide open top caps have a small hole to let air escape while filling, occasionally they don't if the fill port is huge!

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## zadiac (13/3/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> It seems Hellvape beat me to the proposed solution ... The pic below is of the MD which has the same type of sliding top cap, and they use a 2mm grub screw to attach the top cap, which has been drilled out at, (_best guess somewhere between 0.8 and 1.2mm?_), to alleviate air locks when filling
> 
> View attachment 224817



As soon as I have time, I'll take it apart and attempt a drill. Just hope I don't fook it up...lol

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## Intuthu Kagesi (13/3/21)

zadiac said:


> As soon as I have time, I'll take it apart and attempt a drill. Just hope I don't fook it up...lol



I'm hoping that you have a similar arrangement to my MD, in that you already have a grub screw there to hold it all together, as worst case scenario, you'll drill the grub screw, (_or buy a pre-drilled one from a bolt and nut supplier_), unless it's simply clogged with manufacturing swarf, and a lil' poke with a small jewelers screwdriver is all that is required to release the blockage and allow it to breathe

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## ARYANTO (13/3/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> What you want is some of these to help. (Ask @ARYANTO nicely ).
> Whilst they don't mop up the top of your mod, they certainly stop any condensation and eliquid going down your 510 connector, and they prevent scuffing on both your tanks and mods.
> 
> View attachment 224601


Don't have any at the mo, but if push comes to shove I will go to work and make you a couple ...

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## LeislB (13/3/21)

ARYANTO said:


> Don't have any at the mo, but if push comes to shove I will go to work and make you a couple ...


How do you make them? Are they plastic or paper? I bought battery toppers from our group buy with Fasttech but must have bought 18650 ones cause the holes are too small! Damn!

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## ARYANTO (14/3/21)

LeislB said:


> How do you make them? Are they plastic or paper? I bought battery toppers from our group buy with Fasttech but must have bought 18650 ones cause the holes are too small! Damn!


@ LeislB - these are for between the atty/tank and the mod - paper to catch juice and plastic to prevent scuff marks and prevent juice from going into the 510 port .

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## Intuthu Kagesi (14/3/21)

ARYANTO said:


> @ LeislB - these are for between the atty/tank and the mod - paper to catch juice and plastic to prevent scuff marks and prevent juice from going into the 510 port .



I highly recommend the paper ones ... since using them, I haven't had a problem with juice spilling down my 510, (_and yes I'm a messy tank filler on occasion as well as being biased to using bottom air flow tanks_ ). 
I think their adoption was left a little too late to get the full anti scuff benefits in my case

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## zadiac (28/4/21)

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I'm hoping that you have a similar arrangement to my MD, in that you already have a grub screw there to hold it all together, as worst case scenario, you'll drill the grub screw, (_or buy a pre-drilled one from a bolt and nut supplier_), unless it's simply clogged with manufacturing swarf, and a lil' poke with a small jewelers screwdriver is all that is required to release the blockage and allow it to breathe



Aaand it won't work. The fill hole has a wall and it sinks through the airflow chamber to the tank. If I drill, I'll drill straight into the airflow chamber. Not gonna do that.

Reactions: Agree 1


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