# Cerakote for my reo mini



## Marzuq

Any idea where in Cape Town I can send my copper vein reo mini to have the color changed? 

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Reactions: Winner 1


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## kevkev

Looks like these guys in CPT can do it http://www.hydro-graphics.co.za/ 
Just ask if they can do the No Temp Process first as I do not know what heat the plastic 510 innards are able to withstand.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Marzuq

kevkev said:


> Looks like these guys in CPT can do it http://www.hydro-graphics.co.za/
> Just ask if they can do the No Temp Process first as I do not know what heat the plastic 510 innards are able to withstand.


Thanks I'll give them a call and report back. Think Anna deserves a color change 

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## kevkev

I am thinking the same for my Grand, in Jet Black.


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## Andre

Think she will have to be stripped first. Ask @Cape vaping supplies where he did his Reo. Think it might have been the peeps @kevkev linked above.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Marzuq

Andre said:


> Think she will have to be stripped first. Ask @Cape vaping supplies where he did his Reo. Think it might have been the peeps @kevkev linked above.



If I remember properly @Cape vaping supplies use paint stripper to strip his. Will check with him wrt how to do it and find out of the guys @kevkev gave a link to will strip it themselves 

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## Marzuq

kevkev said:


> I am thinking the same for my Grand, in Jet Black.


I want a blood red body with a brushed copper finish door. Think it will be a good pair but the door color may vary depending on what they can do for me 

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## Nooby

Would paint stripper work for the black anodized Reo?


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## Andre

Nooby said:


> Would paint stripper work for the black anodized Reo?


From what I remember @johan posting about anodizing - it sort of becomes part of the metal. So, I have an idea it might not be possible, but am not sure.


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## Alex

Nooby said:


> Would paint stripper work for the black anodized Reo?



Paint stripper won't work on Anodized and powder coated surfaces.

Read the comments here for ideas
http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Anodizing-From-Aluminum-Quickly-and-Easil/


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## johan

Nooby said:


> Would paint stripper work for the black anodized Reo?





Andre said:


> From what I remember @johan posting about anodizing - it sort of becomes part of the metal. So, I have an idea it might not be possible, but am not sure.





Alex said:


> Paint stripper won't work on Anodized and powder coated surfaces.
> 
> Read the comments here for ideas
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Anodizing-From-Aluminum-Quickly-and-Easil/




No, the only way to remove anodizing is with NaOH // Sodium Hydroxide (aka caustic soda) - note: you have to wear protection gloves, toxic fumes. Best done outside and most important: you will loose a couple of microns of the allumina.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Nooby

Alex said:


> Paint stripper won't work on Anodized and powder coated surfaces.
> 
> Read the comments here for ideas
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Anodizing-From-Aluminum-Quickly-and-Easil/



This looks like it might just work. Will have to check if it is available locally though..


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## Alex

Nooby said:


> This looks like it might just work. Will have to check if it is available locally though..



Oven cleaner works too, apparently, has the right stuff that @johan speaks of

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Nooby

Andre said:


> From what I remember @johan posting about anodizing - it sort of becomes part of the metal. So, I have an idea it might not be possible, but am not sure.





johan said:


> No, the only way to remove anodizing is with NaOH // Sodium Hydroxide (aka caustic soda) - note: you have to wear protection gloves, toxic fumes. Best done outside and most important: you will loose a couple of microns of the allumina.



Definitely not going this route lol.. I will rather leave it as is. It's just that it had a couple of harsh falls, wanted to redo it to make it pretty again..


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## johan

Nooby said:


> Definitely not going this route lol.. I will rather leave it as is. It's just that it had a couple of harsh falls, wanted to redo it to make it pretty again..



The beauty of anodize is that you can spray paint without any fancy undercoat or you can even mirror polish with a buff - just a suggestion.

Most industrial cleaners contain NaOH.

Reactions: Informative 2


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## Nooby

johan said:


> The beauty of anodize is that you can spray paint without any fancy undercoat or you can even mirror polish with a buff - just a suggestion.
> 
> Most industrial cleaners contain NaOH.



Most of the damage is on the corners, and I can see and feel the Aluminium. Actually small holes, like missing pieces of aluminium lol. I'm really sad I let it fall, 2 or 3 times on tar! So now I'm trying to restore it a bit.. However, I will have to do some sanding work to smooth out the dings.


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## johan

Nooby said:


> Most of the damage is on the corners, and I can see and feel the Aluminium. Actually small holes, like missing pieces of aluminium lol. I'm really sad I let it fall, 2 or 3 times on tar! So now I'm trying to restore it a bit.. However, I will have to do some sanding work to smooth out the dings.



fill with 2-part black epoxy, then sand and polish.

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1


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## Andre

Nooby said:


> Most of the damage is on the corners, and I can see and feel the Aluminium. Actually small holes, like missing pieces of aluminium lol. I'm really sad I let it fall, 2 or 3 times on tar! So now I'm trying to restore it a bit.. However, I will have to do some sanding work to smooth out the dings.


If that was most other mods, it would not have been working anymore.

Reactions: Agree 4 | Can relate 1


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## Marzuq

so i spoke to guys at hydro-graphic
the says they sandblast and then bake at 150 degrees.
whats the chances my little reo mini and its 510 connector innards can withstand this temperatures?


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## Alex

I try to handle my Reo's with kid gloves, but the mini dropped of the sink one day, about a month after acquiring her, and hit the hard tile floor..landing just on the bottom edge where the door slides in. Because the metal is so soft it created a flat spot, and deformed the corner ever so slightly inwards. There was no scratch or anything, but I couldn't slide the door back in, as a result. (The door wasn't installed at the time.)

Took all my inconsiderable skills with a needle file to fix that up. And since then I am super careful when putting it down on any surface.


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## Alex

Marzuq said:


> so i spoke to guys at hydro-graphic
> the says they sandblast and then bake at 150 degrees.
> whats the chances my little reo mini and its 510 connector innards can withstand this temperatures?



Should be fine at that temp. Your best bet is to talk to Robert at reosmods though.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Nooby

Price wise?


Marzuq said:


> so i spoke to guys at hydro-graphic
> the says they sandblast and then bake at 150 degrees.
> whats the chances my little reo mini and its 510 connector innards can withstand this temperatures?


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## Marzuq

Nooby said:


> Price wise?



price completely slipped my mind when he mention 150 degrees baking temp lol

Reactions: Funny 1


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## johan

Marzuq said:


> so i spoke to guys at hydro-graphic
> the says they sandblast and then bake at 150 degrees.
> whats the chances my little reo mini and its 510 connector innards can withstand this temperatures?



Silicone inside bottom part of 510 connector, and as @Alex said you're safe as silicone doesn't deform between _-55C to +300C_.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Marzuq

johan said:


> Silicone inside bottom part of 510 connector, and as @Alex said you're safe as silicone doesn't deform between _-55C to +300C_.



perfect that sets my mind at ease. i will arrange for them to give me a quote now


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## johan

Marzuq said:


> perfect that sets my mind at ease. i will arrange for them to give me a quote now



PS. I intentionally removed all that silicone and replaced with a 4mm OD piece of HDP tubing that tightly fit the center pin of the 510 connector, so zero train smash if it gets damaged.

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1


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## Marzuq

johan said:


> PS. I intentionally removed all that silicone and replaced with a 4mm OD piece of HDP tubing that tightly fit the center pin of the 510 connector, so zero train smash if it gets damaged.


ok ive sent off some pictures and dimensions now.
now to wait for a quote....

@johan its very comforting to know if anything goes wrong i have a fall back plan and will definitely seek your assistance if that situation arises.

lets pray its cheaper than buying a new reo lol

Reactions: Like 1


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## johan

Marzuq said:


> ok ive sent off some pictures and dimensions now.
> now to wait for a quote....
> 
> @johan its very comforting to know if anything goes wrong i have a fall back plan and will definitely seek your assistance if that situation arises.
> 
> lets pray its cheaper than buying a new reo lol



Thats what I love about the Reo, you can fix anything on it with easily available alternatives, except of course the center pin.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## Alex



Reactions: Like 1


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## johan

Thanks @Alex, bookmarked for viewing later.

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## Mklops

Any updates on this @Marzuq?


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## Marzuq

Mklops said:


> Any updates on this @Marzuq?


this company is very slap. ive been foning and emailing reminders for my quote for 2 weeks now and still nothing.
ive since sold my coppervein mini as i just gave up

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mklops

Marzuq said:


> this company is very slap. ive been foning and emailing reminders for my quote for 2 weeks now and still nothing.
> ive since sold my coppervein mini as i just gave up


 
I think that is best, a Reo is like a car I guess, if you want it in a certain color then buy it in that color; it's just more effort than its worth the other way round...

Shot for the update

Reactions: Like 1


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