# Diy Wire Zapper



## johan (26/3/14)

For those DIY enthusiasts that want to build a simple NR-R Wire Welder / Zapper, here's a schematic and some info:




B.O.M (all components available from any electronic store):

R1 - 100 Ohm 5W Resistor
R2 - 1k Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R3 - 3k3 1/4W Resistor
C1 & C2 - 4700uF 50V Electrolytic Capacitor (if you use 48V, get 63V rated Capacitors
LED1 - Any standard 3mm or 5mm LED
Q1 - MCR106 or C106B Thyristor (see pic insert on schematic for pin-outs)
SW1 - Any SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Switch
P1 & P2 - Input connection from any 24V or 48V DC PSU (power supply)
P3 & P4 - Output to wires to be welded (use Croc-clips with insulation sheath)

Use:

Place SW1 in CHARGE position until LED1 lights up bright
Connect NR & R wires each on a seperate Croc-clip (doesn't matter which one connects to P3 or P4)
Overlap NR wire with R wire about 1mm and let them physically touch each other
Flick SW1 over to ZAP
You will hear a Zap noise and even observe a spark - that's absolutely normal
Your NR-R wires should now be securely welded together
Repeat for the other side R-NR

Note:

You can increase the values of C1 & C2 if you want a "deeper" penetration of weld.
Any questions, let me know.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 2


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## thekeeperza (26/3/14)

Awesome @johanct!!

Do you get a board of some sort that this can be easily built on?


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## johan (26/3/14)

thekeeperza said:


> Awesome @johanct!!
> 
> Do you get a board of some sort that this can be easily built on?



No, but I can do a quick layout if you want to DIY pcb (apologies for slow response but my f%$# 4M Telkom line is worse than a dial-up for a couple of days now).


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## thekeeperza (26/3/14)

johanct said:


> No, but I can do a quick layout if you want to DIY pcb (apologies for slow response but my f%$# 4M Telkom line is worse than a dial-up for a couple of days now).


That would be cool. I can get hold of a PCB etching kit


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## johan (26/3/14)

thekeeperza said:


> That would be cool. I can get hold of a PCB etching kit



I will do - you don't need pcb etching kit, just a plastic container (I will post a DIY pcb etching) as soon as my dsl line is fixed.

Reactions: Like 1


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## thekeeperza (26/3/14)

Thanks @johanct


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## johan (26/3/14)

@thekeeperza , here's a screen shot of pcb layout (pcb size: 57 x 49mm) seen from component side. With such a simple single layer layout, its faster to just rout the copper cladding than to etch it. Let me know if you want a 1:1 scale pdf of tracks only.


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## CraftyZA (26/3/14)

The resistor and led is a nice way to allow for a slow drain if you do not use the charge. I did the same in my audio psu. Nasty effect fhen you short the cap output.


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## thekeeperza (27/3/14)

@johanct that is great. Please send me the scale pdf.


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## johan (27/3/14)

@thekeeperza refer attached (scale 1:1). Note: Double check C1 & C2 pin pitch and diameter, manufacturers use different sizes. In case yours differ from size on layout, let me know and I will change accordingly.


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## thekeeperza (27/3/14)

Awesome thanks @johanct.


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## thekeeperza (30/3/14)

@johanct wrt the power supply what should I be looking for? I have seen 12VDC and 24VDC ranging from 0.3A to 8A.
So in essence, confused I am.


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## johan (30/3/14)

Don't need anything bigger than 5W - go for 24Vmin up to 48Vmax - if you don't come right give shout.


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## thekeeperza (30/3/14)

Great thanks @johanct will see what I can find

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## thekeeperza (4/4/14)

Got some components today. Forgot the invoice at work so the cost is vague. I think about R250ish but I will confirm tomorrow. I must measure the caps to check if they will fit that PCB layout @johan.
I will try to get a PCB ready asap.


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## shabbar (4/4/14)

What is this wire zapper ?


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## devdev (4/4/14)

It lets rapid coil fiends weld their own Resistance/Non-Resistance wire for coiling @shabbar

Reactions: Informative 1


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## thekeeperza (10/4/14)

PCB and print-n-peel acquired. Hopefully tomorrow I can get a board etched.

Reactions: Like 1


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## devdev (10/4/14)

This is looking very exciting @thekeeperza. It's gonna be quite a technical project which looks really interesting. Just don't think etching PCB's is within my range of skills.

How big is the finished product going to be approximately?


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## thekeeperza (10/4/14)

johan said:


> pcb size: 57 x 49mm


I am going to work on a enclosure for this over the weekend so not to sure on the final size but won't be much bigger than the pcb. Height I am guessing around 60mm as the caps are 40mm tall.

Reactions: Like 1


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## ShaneW (11/4/14)

Nice project...


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## devdev (11/4/14)

Yeah this looks sick and I am very interested to see how the finished product looks @thekeeperza 
Still don't really have a real need for NR/R wires just yet, but so interested in having a rig which zaps things


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## thekeeperza (11/4/14)

Could always use it on colleagues or the like - but you didn't hear that from me

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Gazzacpt (11/4/14)

thekeeperza said:


> Could always use it on colleagues or the like - but you didn't hear that from me


We use to play catch with charged caps when I was in manufacturing and development. The programmers never learned their lesson. 

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## johan (11/4/14)

On varsity I had a 5,6uF/400V cap on my desk shaped in the form of a wired donkey - usually charged up straight from the mains 220V socket. Everybody will ask what it is and I will explain its a donkey, but be careful it bites, don't touch. Off coarse everybody will touch it. Caused many a good laugh . According to my room mate (I wasn't there) a certain one-time only visitor literally wets his pants when the cap discharged in his hands.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## TylerD (11/4/14)

johan said:


> On varsity I had a 5,6uF/400V cap on my desk shaped in the form of a wired donkey - usually charged up straight from the mains 220V socket. Everybody will ask what it is and I will explain its a donkey, but be careful it bites, don't touch. Off coarse everybody will touch it. Caused many a good laugh . According to my room mate (I wasn't there) a certain one-time only visitor literally wets his pants when the cap discharged in his hands.


Whahaha. That's so funny! Love it. Wouldn't think it was funny if it bit me tho!

Reactions: Like 1


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## thekeeperza (11/4/14)

At school we used to drop a charged cap into peoples blazer pockets. Was hilarious to watch how they tried to remove their hand from their pockets after they got zapped.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## TylerD (11/4/14)

In a technical high school in Vereeniging a "Charged cap" means something totally different.

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## johan (11/4/14)

TylerD said:


> In a technical high school in Vereeniging a "Charged cap" means something totally different.



You better explain - I AM NOT!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## andro (11/4/14)

devdev said:


> It lets rapid coil fiends weld their own Resistance/Non-Resistance wire for coiling @shabbar


Sorry but im still lost . What does this mean ?


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## Andre (11/4/14)

andro said:


> Sorry but im still lost . What does this mean ?


Some atomizers require coils made from wire that is resistance wire (like the 28 g Kanthal you just got) in the middle and non-resistance wires for the tails. One such atty is the Ithaka. You can buy resistance wire and non resistance wire separately. To combine them for you to use to build a coil you use a zapper, it basically welds the non resistance wire to the resistance wire. This is my understanding and not a technical explanation at all. Hope it helps.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## thekeeperza (11/4/14)

andro said:


> Sorry but im still lost . What does this mean ?


@Matthee summed it up well.
Here is a Utube review that shows how it works 


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## shabbar (11/4/14)

Matthee said:


> Some atomizers require coils made from wire that is resistance wire (like the 28 g Kanthal you just got) in the middle and non-resistance wires for the tails. One such atty is the Ithaka. You can buy resistance wire and non resistance wire separately. To combine them for you to use to build a coil you use a zapper, it basically welds the non resistance wire to the resistance wire. This is my understanding and not a technical explanation at all. Hope it helps.



What happens if one would only use resistance wire ?


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## Andre (12/4/14)

shabbar said:


> What happens if one would only use resistance wire ?


I think it will short out.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Rex_Bael (12/4/14)

Resistance wire only would mean that the entire construct will heat up. The attys that need this generally have long coil tails that run into the body of the atty which would also then heat up. If you used *non-*resistance wire only, it would short out.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Andre (12/4/14)

Rex_Bael said:


> Resistance wire only would mean that the entire construct will heat up. The attys that need this generally have long coil tails that run into the body of the atty which would also then heat up. If you used *non-*resistance wire only, it would short out.


Ah, thank you. That sounds logical to me.


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## ET (12/4/14)

would you be able to use the zapper to attach no res wire to say triple twisted kanthal?


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## devdev (13/4/14)

Yes that should be possible in theory. In practice I am not sure, but don't see any reason why it wouldn't

Reactions: Agree 1


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## thekeeperza (18/4/14)

Eventually got some time to work on this.
Printed PCB layout on press-n-peel.


PCB ready for an etching bath


Etched PCB - just needs some trimming



I will be drilling the holes on Sunday when I can use my dads drill press and hopefully be able to zap something on Monday.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 1


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## ShaneW (18/4/14)

Nicely done...

Keen to see it in action.

Looks like you've done this before. If not... you might want to take a blade and clean up the excess spots, could cause a possible short.






Also give the track side a nice scrub with steel wool or pot scourer(with something like sugar soap) before soldering, makes the solder stick a lot easier the board.


Good luck and looking good!

Reactions: Like 4


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## thekeeperza (19/4/14)

@ShaneW I think it is just the picture - there is a clear gap between the 2.


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## johan (19/4/14)

Great to see your progress @thekeeperza

Reactions: Agree 2


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## thekeeperza (24/4/14)

Finally got this assembled.
LED came on and nothing blew up  Still have to get it into an enclosure of some sort.






I just tried zapping some wire together - small spark and then smoke came out of something Generally smoke coming out of electronics is a bad thing.
@johan did I stuff something up?

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## johan (24/4/14)

I really dont know @thekeeperza !  All electronics works with smoke, once the smoke is finished, unfortunately the electronics are also finished . Have you double check that there are no hairline shorts between pcb tracks? hopefully its only one of them that smoked a little. Try again, the power supply is isolated from the circuit when you zap, so its safe and the only component that might be at risk is the SCR - you can check for short on SCR between Anode & Cathode. If you don't come right, then we should get together.


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## thekeeperza (24/4/14)

thanks @johan - I will go through everything again and check if there is anything shorting. I will go get another SCR in case this one's smoke leaked.
If I don't come right I will give you a shout to meet and sort it out.


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## johan (24/4/14)

thekeeperza said:


> thanks @johan - I will go through everything again and check if there is anything shorting. I will go get another SCR in case this one's smoke leaked.
> If I don't come right I will give you a shout to meet and sort it out.



100% - If I have time this afternoon, I will build up one on a breadboard and see for myself what might cause the "smoke leaking"


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## thekeeperza (24/4/14)

johan said:


> 100% - If I have time this afternoon, I will build up one on a breadboard and see for myself what might cause the "smoke leaking"


I have a sneaky suspicion that the problem might be the guy behind the soldering iron

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## thekeeperza (28/4/14)

I think that the thryistor has leaked all its smoke - everything else looks fine. The soldering might be a bit suspect.
I am going to try get to Mantech tomorrow for another thyristor and another set or 2 of components and firstly try fix the current setup. I will etch another board or 2 and try have another go at it.
After that if nothing works I will have to get a bottle (or 3) of wine and come visit you @johan

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## Rowan Francis (28/4/14)

Thekeeperza . I would like to ask if you want to do a group buy on the wine .. I too would like to schmooze @johan for a zapper . My bulawayo guy has had the board printout for two weeks and hasn't made anything yet .. 

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Reactions: Funny 1


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## johan (29/4/14)

LOL @Rowan Francis, are you battling to get a pcb made? let me know and we can make a plan. @thekeeperza , did you sort out your smoking electronics yet?


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## thekeeperza (29/4/14)

@johan I am going to get some parts later and replace the thyristor - hopefully I will be able to test it again this week.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## RezaD (29/4/14)

Btw Johan.... the 24v psu...how powerful does it need to be? Is 700 ma enough? Thanks

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## johan (29/4/14)

RezaD said:


> Btw Johan.... the 24v psu...how powerful does it need to be? Is 700 ma enough? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk



700mA is more than enough


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## thekeeperza (8/5/14)

Replaced the SCR on the zapper...no smoke came out this time...There is a spark when zapping the wire but there doesn't seem to be much penetration of the weld...@johan how long should the device charge for?

ACHTUNG!!
Don't hold 1 wire still with your finger while trying to zap...It gets f@#$ng hot instantly! 




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## johan (8/5/14)

LOL use croc-clips - should take maximum 60 seconds to charge  Hot things do penetrate skin

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## thekeeperza (8/5/14)

johan said:


> LOL use croc-clips - should take maximum 60 seconds to charge  Hot things do penetrate skin


Ja brain was seriously disengaged!

Will retry now with a croc-clip.


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## johan (8/5/14)

thekeeperza said:


> Ja brain was seriously disengaged!
> 
> Will retry now with a croc-clip.
> 
> ...



The 2 wires must be in contact (+/- 1 to 3mm overlap) and obviously "still"


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## thekeeperza (8/5/14)

johan said:


> The 2 wires must be in contact (+/- 1 to 3mm overlap) and obviously "still"


I shake like a leaf! Can't get them still


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## johan (8/5/14)

thekeeperza said:


> I shake like a leaf! Can't get them still
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD



can't you mount your croc-clips somehow?


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## ET (8/5/14)

got told this story a few weeks ago by a mate about his one mate.
seems the fella was soldering and his soldering iron died so he took apart an old hairdryer, got some of the heating wire from there and was using that to solder with. got distracted and somehow dropped the hot wire onto his leg where it burned itself into the leg. the guy to this day still has the wire in his leg

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## thekeeperza (8/5/14)

Will figure something out to mount them


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## johan (8/5/14)

thekeeperza said:


> Will figure something out to mount them
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD



In the interim just keep trying - hopefully you shake them together at the point the current discharge throught the caps


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## ET (8/5/14)

johan said:


> can't you mount your croc-clips somehow?



what about one of those little guys to keep the stuff still?

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## johan (8/5/14)

Ideal @denizenx and they are cheap


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## thekeeperza (8/5/14)

denizenx said:


> what about one of those little guys to keep the stuff still?
> 
> View attachment 4903


If Mantech have them I will pick one up tomorrow.
Great idea @denizenx


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## ET (8/5/14)

think the one i have my mate got at one of those chinese shops for 40 bucks. the proper ones are way more expensive


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## thekeeperza (11/5/14)

Been playing with the wire zapper today. Previously I was using 28g kanthal to test the zapping and it was not working - not enough weld penetration. Doesn't 'zap' alot.
Decided to try thinner gauge wire - 32g kanthal and 32g NR wire. Seriously big spark and and the wire melts and disappears in the area of the join.
I wanted to try 28g kanthal to 32g NR but due to my own stupidity I let the 2 croc-clips touch and with a loud bang the SCR released its smoke ??


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## johan (11/5/14)

thekeeperza said:


> Been playing with the wire zapper today. Previously I was using 28g kanthal to test the zapping and it was not working - not enough weld penetration. Doesn't 'zap' alot.
> Decided to try thinner gauge wire - 32g kanthal and 32g NR wire. Seriously big spark and and the wire melts and disappears in the area of the join.
> I wanted to try 28g kanthal to 32g NR but due to my own stupidity I let the 2 croc-clips touch and with a loud bang the SCR released its smoke ??



If penetration is not adequate you can add 1 or more capacitors (parallel connected to existing ones). To protect the SCR against "loosing its smoke" in accidental touching the croc-clips, fit a 2.2 Ohm / 10W resistor in series with one of the outputs.


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## thekeeperza (11/5/14)

Thanks @johan - I will replace the SCR and add the resistor then test the 28g/32g combo before I add any more caps.

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## blujeenz (9/11/15)

I thought one of these jobbies would round out the tool box nicely. I took some tips from the comments and added another cap for high/low zapping.
I also used the croc clips from my _helping hands, _mounting them on some rounded head machine screws. I used a BT151-800 with a 12A rms current capability, I expect this one will be much harder at releasing its smoke.  oh yeah, they cost R8 at Mantech electronics.
Finally found a use for those compressed wood spacers from pallets, a nice box for my zapper once it had the inside hollowed out with a spade bit.
Theres a power socket on the side for an old HP 610C printer psu, even though the label says its 30V DC it actually charges the caps to 43V which is a bit high for 50V capacitors, as well as vapourising #28 easily on high.




A look inside.



Operation.



A bright flash and not quite joined, going to try a different psu with a lower voltage. Kanthal on the left and nickel on the right.





2nd attempt, holds well but just doesnt look right. 



@johan the mcr106 has the gate and cathode reversed in the schematic and board view. It has to have the heatsink tab facing away from the capacitors instead of towards them.

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## Eequinox (10/11/15)

thekeeperza said:


> If Mantech have them I will pick one up tomorrow.
> Great idea @denizenx
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


communica also has them on special last time i was there


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## johan (12/11/15)

blujeenz said:


> I thought one of these jobbies would round out the tool box nicely. I took some tips from the comments and added another cap for high/low zapping.
> I also used the croc clips from my _helping hands, _mounting them on some rounded head machine screws. I used a BT151-800 with a 12A rms current capability, I expect this one will be much harder at releasing its smoke.  oh yeah, they cost R8 at Mantech electronics.
> Finally found a use for those compressed wood spacers from pallets, a nice box for my zapper once it had the inside hollowed out with a spade bit.
> Theres a power socket on the side for an old HP 610C printer psu, even though the label says its 30V DC it actually charges the caps to 43V which is a bit high for 50V capacitors, as well as vapourising #28 easily on high.
> ...



Anything is possible, even the impossible; it just takes time


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