# What build would you use to vape at 150W on a series mod?



## Jebula999 (16/9/15)

Sup Vapes,

Just wanted to find out what kind of build you would use to vape at 150W on a series mod?


I ask this because on my Sigelei 150W, according to math, i can run a coil at the lowest 0.75ohm, which is 20A on the dot with the batteries i have.

But how is the vape on a 0.75ohm coil at 150W? Because if i understand it correctly, the higher the ohm the less Watts we generally use....


Any info would be greatly appreciated 
-Jeb


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## Mike (16/9/15)

Be careful about your calculations. 150W is 150W. If your batteries are at 3.3v, you'll need 45A (+ 10% or so lets say) to get 150W.

Can't speak about vaping at 100W+ though. Only done it once and didn't like it.


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## Andre (16/9/15)

Play around with this: http://www.steam-engine.org/modrange.asp

Reactions: Like 1


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## whatalotigot (17/9/15)

Hey man

I vape between 80-120w on a daily basis.

If you want to vape at 150w, 
you are going to want to have MAX coverage of coils. Also get the ohm down very low to about .1 or .2 (remember Ohm doesnt matter as we are using regulated, but using bigger wire allows a long ramp up, so at 150w it will be like a normal ramp up)

Try going for 11wraps dual coil 22g wire. 
or 
24g wire, try doing dual parallel 4-6 wraps per coil (dual strand)

This will be nice surface area, so you dont get any dry hits at 150w.

Iv vaped 200w with a dual para 24g 6wraps each coil. with no problem. 

*DO NOT USE 26g or higher, you WILL get instant dry hits.*

Hope this helps

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 3 | Informative 1


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## Jebula999 (17/9/15)

whatalotigot said:


> Hey man
> 
> I vape between 80-120w on a daily basis.
> 
> ...



Thank you man, this is the response i was hoping for 

Now you say don't worry too much about the ohms as we are using regulated mods. So then what are you using to calculate the AMP draw?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Andre (17/9/15)

Jebula999 said:


> Thank you man, this is the response i was hoping for
> 
> Now you say don't worry too much about the ohms as we are using regulated mods. So then what are you using to calculate the AMP draw?


This: http://www.steam-engine.org/modrange.asp


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## whatalotigot (17/9/15)

You can use steam engine to check amp draw.

But remember, the mod was made to go to 150w with 2 18650 batteries. No need to worry about amp draw. Usually these mods can go down to .1ohm. You DO NOT have to worry about venting batteries. thats the beauty of regulated mods!!
On a regulated device, it doesnt matter. Aslong as the batteries are good and the mod is firing you have no worries.
Unless you are worried about battery life. And Yes at 150w it will last alot shorter then normal. But I vape most days at 80w and a set of batteries last me a full day easy.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## Mike (17/9/15)

Mike said:


> Be careful about your calculations. 150W is 150W. If your batteries are at 3.3v, you'll need 45A (+ 10% or so lets say) to get 150W.
> 
> Can't speak about vaping at 100W+ though. Only done it once and didn't like it.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Jebula999 (17/9/15)

whatalotigot said:


> You can use steam engine to check amp draw.
> 
> But remember, the mod was made to go to 150w with 2 18650 batteries. No need to worry about amp draw. Usually these mods can go down to .1ohm. You DO NOT have to worry about venting batteries. thats the beauty of regulated mods!!
> On a regulated device, it doesnt matter. Aslong as the batteries are good and the mod is firing you have no worries.
> Unless you are worried about battery life. And Yes at 150w it will last alot shorter then normal. But I vape most days at 80w and a set of batteries last me a full day easy.


Thanks again!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Andre (17/9/15)

whatalotigot said:


> You can use steam engine to check amp draw.
> 
> But remember, the mod was made to go to 150w with 2 18650 batteries. No need to worry about amp draw. Usually these mods can go down to .1ohm. You DO NOT have to worry about venting batteries. thats the beauty of regulated mods!!
> On a regulated device, it doesnt matter. Aslong as the batteries are good and the mod is firing you have no worries.
> Unless you are worried about battery life. And Yes at 150w it will last alot shorter then normal. But I vape most days at 80w and a set of batteries last me a full day easy.


That link to steam engine, @Jebula999, is more to give you info on what is the best resistance range to get the most power out of your particular regulated device. At 0.75 ohms you will definitely not get to 150W as I understand it.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Jebula999 (17/9/15)

Andre said:


> That link to steam engine, @Jebula999, is more to give you info on what is the best resistance range to get the most power out of your particular regulated device. At 0.75 ohms you will definitely not get to 150W as I understand it.



For instance, here is a snip of the site and i have entered everything as it shows on my mod(i picked random numbers on my mod, i have not fired it at these stats)

Could someone explain what this all means or what the site it trying to tell me?


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## Andre (17/9/15)

Jebula999 said:


> For instance, here is a snip of the site and i have entered everything as it shows on my mod(i picked random numbers on my mod, i have not fired it at these stats)
> 
> Could someone explain what this all means or what the site it trying to tell me?
> View attachment 35758


What that tells me (and I am by no means an expert - far from it) is that you would be drawing a current of 17.9 A at 120 W on a coil of a resistance between 0.33 and 0.37 ohms. If you are satisfied with the safety margin between 17.9 and 20 A (assuming your batteries have a continuous discharge current of 20 A), you should be good to go. 

If you just input the name of the device on steam engine you get:







The values it shows there are based on the known (published) max output current, voltage and power of the Sig 150. From that one can infer that the batteries are in series. So the amp draw is as if you only have one battery in there. Thus, if your coiling is at a resistance between 0.167 and 0.375 ohms (with the best balance being 0.313 ohms) you can reach 150 W, but at a current draw of 20 W - so make sure your batteries can handle that.

Reactions: Winner 1


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## whatalotigot (18/9/15)

Why would you need to do the maths for this. The mod will fire and batteries will be fire regardless. This isnt a mech mod. Its regulated!

Reactions: Agree 1 | Disagree 2


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## Mike (18/9/15)

@whatalotigot regulated isn't inherently safe. As I've said, to calculate your draw 

Power = voltage x current 

So at 100W with 4V batteries you need 25A. However if your batteries are low, at 3.3V for example, you'll need 33A. Thankfully most batteries can provide that. However at 150W one should be aware that you need high end batteries to be 100% safe. Using 3000mAh will still pose a risk of early degradation or overheating of batteries.


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## Jebula999 (18/9/15)

whatalotigot said:


> Why would you need to do the maths for this. The mod will fire and batteries will be fire regardless. This isnt a mech mod. Its regulated!


Regulated or not, everyone should know their limits and the safety of what they vaping... I would rather know that i am within the safe limits than rely on a chip that could fail or be incorrect.

"Oh my car can go 200KM/h, it has ABS and Traction control, i'm all good!" Tire pops and you dead. Little more dramatic but just putting my point out there.

It's also out of curiosity, so i know what the current is and how much i'm actually drawing from my battery.


Then the main point of this post was for someone to give insight into what i should/could use to vape at that level, as i have been staying below 50W and would like to try the higher end of the scale. And you did a very nice job of giving me advice in the first reply you gave me which i appreciate.

Reactions: Like 1


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## whatalotigot (18/9/15)

Sorry but when my batteries are low 3.3v or so... And I fire at 120w, the board will stop me saying "battery low" If you drag too long "over use" if there is a short "Check atomizer" if there is a coil too low ohm " check atomizer" or "atomizer low" The board will always failsafe to avoid battery vents!

There is no need to do the maths for the battery safety with a regulated device. thats what the board does. Iv never heard of a regulated mod venting batteries. The mod was made specifically to use dual 18650 batteries.. and they software allows for what the batteries will handle.

Yes its nice to know battery safety, if you are using a mech. But on regulated, the mod does all that for you, there isnt a risk of venting batteries. UNLESS you are using weak batteries with a low Amp rating.

Using Smurfs or efest 38a batteries there will be no issue on a regulated mod. No point in doing the calculations because you will find everytime that the mod will always be able to fire at the specs it has given you.


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## Mike (18/9/15)

Ok so you're saying you put a pair of 5A discharge batteries into your device and it'll KNOW that they shouldn't be putting out more than that? Come on dude, I expected better from you.


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## whatalotigot (18/9/15)

whatalotigot said:


> UNLESS you are using weak batteries with a low Amp rating.



If you find me 5a rated batteries I will test your theory, Im sure the board would register "check batteries" 

Just the way a board can tell what volts are on the batteries im sure It can also sense what Amp rating the batteries are. 
hence giving the "check battery" screen


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## Mike (18/9/15)

That might actually be an interesting experiment. The first that come to mind are the Efest 3100mAh, if they're not fully charged, it'd be unsafe to try get them to push out 150W.

@johan do you know if there's a way a device can monitor if a battery is being pushed past what's safe and what's not? Besides some kind of temp probe?


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## whatalotigot (18/9/15)

My theory behind it would be:

When your battery gets down to 3.3v the AMP output will be alot lower. So when you press fire on 120w it says "battery check" if you drop the watts down to 60w it will fire. So the board must be checking the amp rating every hit. Thats the only way it would be able to say "check battery"

But I could be wrong. Id really like to organise 5a batteries and give this a shot. My bet is "battery check"

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike (18/9/15)

Well if we consider the nominal voltage, let's say 3.7V, you'll need 40A from the pair in order to fire at 150W.



> purple Efest 3100mAh batteries *are not 20A batteries*, they are _only_ rated for 4A max continuous, 6.5A max pulse!



Know anyone in the vicinity who may have a pair of those? They'd be perfect to test. Either way, neither of us are 100% certain so it'd be very nice to find out.


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## Matt (18/9/15)

The sigelei has a max amp draw of 30A. So with 2 good quality 20A batteries you are safe.
Saw a youtube clip once guy tried 5a battery in his ipv2 and the battery went from 100% to 0% in seconds followed by check battery.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Mike (18/9/15)

Matt said:


> The sigelei has a max amp draw of 30A. So with 2 good quality 20A batteries you are safe.
> Saw a youtube clip once guy tried 5a battery in his ipv2 and the battery went from 100% to 0% in seconds followed by check battery.



Good point! However if the Sig is a series box (I think it is?) then you actually need 30A batteries as current in series battery is not additive. Thanks for the heads up about the IPV. I wonder how borderline safe batteries would cope? That's the real problem IMO. If they're just good enough to get past the box's safety mechanisms.


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## Matt (18/9/15)

Found a interesting post about this.

A series connection will treat the two batteries as one. The advantage of a series connection is the voltage doubles (from 3.7v nominal to 7.4v nominal). This means you will, in a sense, be putting less stress on the battery. For instance, if you were to run 100w with a 3.7v battery, you are drawing 27 amps on a fresh battery. If, however, you have two batteries in series, you will only be drawing 13 amps. Remember, in series, the two batteries behave as one. Therefore, the amp limit of one battery is the amp limit of both batteries (25R's in series still have a 20 amp limit). However, with the doubled voltage, you don't need as much current to achieve the desired power. So, even though the amp limit hasn't magically doubled, the need for those amps has deceased. 

Link: https://m.reddit.com/r/electronic_c...you_dont_calculate_current_draw_on_regulated/

What i heared is that the sigelei and ipv have a protection in place similiar or part of the short protection. The battery just drains instantly and gets very warm. Venting but because of the protection limited venting. (Same as that youtube clip with ipv2) But no idea how it exactly works.

Reactions: Like 2


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## kev mac (18/9/15)

Jebula999 said:


> Sup Vapes,
> 
> Just wanted to find out what kind of build you would use to vape at 150W on a series mod?
> 
> ...


24g 6 wraps, dual coil, 0.39ohms,7.6v,on my God Mod 180s at 150 degrees.Though I don't usually vape this high I admit it's not bad.Oh yeah, this is on a sapor RDA.

Reactions: Like 1


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