# Dolly volt drop



## Xhale (2/8/15)

My reo clone recently had a shave, enabling me to fit 22mm attys (so it is more like a re grand LP now).
It also means I can fit my volt drop meter. But I didnt have to. I could taste that my 22mm attys werent performing (built at 0.5 and 0.35ohms currently). Just felt a bit flat and pap.

**note** this wasnt really an issue with a chalice built at closer to 1ohms...I only noticed it when going lower.

Investigating hat firmly on (multimeter in hand) and the problem was easy to spot once I had burnt my finger on the damn negative spring. It was so hot it was acting like another coil. 
**more investigating*** maybe crap coating, sandpaper out, sanded, rechecked, nope, still rubbish.

Went to the reosmods site and stuck two spring in my shopping cart, a pruple button cover and a small vial of noaloax, $16 in total..no problem.

Shipping, an additional $23...ok kak idea.

Into the box of imagination we go and I pulled out some 0.4mm ni200, quad twisted it, wrapped it around the top of the spring and the bottom of the spring.

Bob, meet Mary your uncle, because now it kicks like a mule and the spring isnt heating up.

Moral of the story: the spring is kak and adds resistance..once your atty resistance goes low it makes a bigger difference and starts sapping away battery power.

If anybody is interested, my multimeter leads measure 0.17ohm by themselves. Measuring the spring from top of spring to bottom of screw on the reo clone was 0.24ohm, so an additional 0.07ohm at no load.

The kui measured a remarkable 0.19ohm from top of spring to delrin screw (spring+body resistance)...so only 0.02ohm added.

The modified reo clone spring now measures 0.2ohm from top of spring to delrin screw (spring+body resistance)...so a bit worse than the kui but not enough to notice when vaping.

Happy days!

Reactions: Like 3 | Informative 2


----------



## johan (2/8/15)

@Xhale get yourself a 20A car fuse (plastic type with 2 spade lugs), bend the one lug over the plastic top-side and the other lug over the plastic bottom-side. Remove the negative spring and any paint / coating. Slide the modified car fuse as to have the one lug making electrical contact with the enclosure and the other lug making contact with the battery's negative side (its a nice snug fit). For me personally it provides protection as well as minimal voltage drop (less voltage drop than the gold plated spring).

10A good enough for me



photo from ECF​

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 3 | Informative 2 | Creative 2


----------



## kev mac (3/8/15)

G


johan said:


> @Xhale get yourself a 20A car fuse (plastic type with 2 spade lugs), bend the one lug over the plastic top-side and the other lug over the plastic bottom-side. Remove the negative spring and any paint / coating. Slide the modified car fuse as to have the one lug making electrical contact with the enclosure and the other lug making contact with the battery's negative side (its a nice snug fit). For me personally it provides protection as well as minimal voltage drop (less voltage drop than the gold plated spring).
> 
> 10A good enough for me
> 
> ...


Great idea @johan


----------



## Xhale (3/8/15)

yes..that is proper clever.


----------



## Xhale (3/8/15)

did @johan 's mod today...10a car fuse, sanded the inner coating away, bent nicely, top tip, highly recommended.

Tip #2: a second car fuse (spare) bent in the same way fits perfectly into the space near the top of the bottle between the battery.
So if you blow a fuse while out, reo has a spare for you to use.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


----------

