# Explanation on how VV mods work



## Morix (1/12/21)

Hi there..

Can we get a full explanation on how VV mods work and how to use them safely ( if thats even a thing). Stuff like the tesla invader, hexohm etc.

What to do and what not to do.
I have no experience with these as i have only been on mech tubes.

Thank you.

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## DarthBranMuffin (1/12/21)

@Intuthu Kagesi could explain in detail.

Some references (in house and external):

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/vv-mod-calculators-tesla-iii-hex-2-hex-3.t55115/#post-733668

https://www.ecigarettedirect.co.uk/ashtray-blog/2015/02/voltage-watts-ohms-vapers.html

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## Stranger (1/12/21)

Your main difference is that there is a pot (potentiometer) built into the device that allows for adjustment of voltage. Stacked tubes can be a little dangerous and VV mods reduce that risk considerably whilst still being able to produce 8+ volts.

I like to use examples: The MVV II has
*Specifications*

Resistance: 0.08Ω to 3.5Ω

Battery: Dual 18650.
Operating voltage: 6.4 - 8.4 V.
Output voltage: 1.0 - 8.0 V.
With no chip this allows for a hard hit like a tube mech and even harder if you are going above a single battery output of 4.2
Some work in parallel and some in series and some you can have either or. You do get both single battery or dual or even more.

I find them very safe to use and use mine all the time. If the 510 pin protrudes enough, I have both tanks and RDA's that work on them.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1


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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> Your main difference is that there is a pot (potentiometer) built into the device that allows for adjustment of voltage. Stacked tubes can be a little dangerous and VV mods reduce that risk considerably whilst still being able to produce 8+ volts.
> 
> I like to use examples: The MVV II has
> *Specifications*
> ...


Im guessing your vv mods have hybrid 510 connections seeing that you mention the protruding atty pins.

If i put a coil in the atty lets say 0.15 to 0.20 is there a specific mandatory voltage i need to be at depending on the coils, starting low and adjusting the volts till i reach my desired heat?

Will need to adjust the volts as the battery depletes?

How do you tell that the battery/s need to be changed ( same a normal tube mech?)

The dangers revolving vv mods?

Still need to build according to the amps either in single/ series or parallel, or is it like a normal vw mod that you can smack in any cell and it will just notify or not fire if something goes wrong?


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## Stranger (1/12/21)

Mod dependent but a lot will have the usual protections built in like low voltage, reverse battery and so on. Again if we look at the MVV II, it has lights that will indicate battery level, too low it won't fire. Build too low, won't fire. They will usually fire at set V until the battery cannot supply set V and then it won't fire. Non of mine are hybrid. 

Most are series so usual safety measures apply. Batteries of correct amps, good wraps, you know the drill. They really are a step further than a pure mech. Plenty of us have the NCV2 and will not part with them. Many will recommend that if you are coming from a mech dripper to a VV mod, then RDTA is the way to go. I get really good results from my Blitzen and Vapefly mesh on the VV mods.

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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> Mod dependent but a lot will have the usual protections built in like low voltage, reverse battery and so on. Again if we look at the MVV II, it has lights that will indicate battery level, too low it won't fire. Build too low, won't fire. They will usually fire at set V until the battery cannot supply set V and then it won't fire. Non of mine are hybrid.
> 
> Most are series so usual safety measures apply. Batteries of correct amps, good wraps, you know the drill. They really are a step further than a pure mech. Plenty of us have the NCV2 and will not part with them. Many will recommend that if you are coming from a mech dripper to a VV mod, then RDTA is the way to go. I get really good results from my Blitzen and Vapefly mesh on the VV mods.


When you set the V and the battery/s go below that and cant supply the set V yhen it wont fire as you stated. Do you replace the batteries then or just lower the V so that it can fire. ( in doing this your desired vape wont be met so usually change cells instead of lowering the V?

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## Morix (1/12/21)

If you have a series vv mod you build according to series 8.4 to get that coil u need. Same for parallel when stacking amps and mah.

So i need to build exactly like i would on a tube or box mech?


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## Stranger (1/12/21)

Again, mod dependent but most will let you know, usually through indicator lights, that your batteries are low, then you will hit the safety threshold set by the mod and you will have no choice but to change/charge batteries. Lowering the V may get you a draw or two but why bother it will be such a weak vape.
Take this for example (Following your posts, I would recommend) https://www.thevapery.co.za/collections/mods/products/rincoe-manto-beast-box-mod

Specs tell you: 


Output Voltage: 1-8V.
Output Current: Max 40A.
Input Voltage: 6.4-8.4V.
So if you have reached 6.4 V there is nothing you can do. Maybe take out the batteries and rub them on your hairy balls, sometimes this recharges them via static electricity
So if the VV mod has a chip and not just a pot this will regulate the device for you.

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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> Again, mod dependent but most will let you know, usually through indicator lights, that your batteries are low, then you will hit the safety threshold set by the mod and you will have no choice but to change/charge batteries. Lowering the V may get you a draw or two but why bother it will be such a weak vape.
> Take this for example (Following your posts, I would recommend) https://www.thevapery.co.za/collections/mods/products/rincoe-manto-beast-box-mod
> 
> Specs tell you:
> ...


Ill go for something without a chip. I dont like it when carol needs to go tell john that i said to turn the music down. Carol should just do as i say.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> Your main difference is that there is a pot (potentiometer) built into the device that allows for adjustment of voltage. Stacked tubes can be a little dangerous and VV mods reduce that risk considerably whilst still being able to produce 8+ volts.
> 
> I like to use examples: The MVV II has
> *Specifications*
> ...


So the only feature u have without that chip is lights telling you that your desired V can no longer be met and need to change cells?


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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> Mod dependent but a lot will have the usual protections built in like low voltage, reverse battery and so on. Again if we look at the MVV II, it has lights that will indicate battery level, too low it won't fire. Build too low, won't fire. They will usually fire at set V until the battery cannot supply set V and then it won't fire. Non of mine are hybrid.
> 
> Most are series so usual safety measures apply. Batteries of correct amps, good wraps, you know the drill. They really are a step further than a pure mech. Plenty of us have the NCV2 and will not part with them. Many will recommend that if you are coming from a mech dripper to a VV mod, then RDTA is the way to go. I get really good results from my Blitzen and Vapefly mesh on the VV mods.


Checked out that MVV 2. Really nice, think ill take a look around on the market. I realy like tge hexohms look though, as well the invader.

Thanks once again.


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## Stranger (1/12/21)

As said, mod dependent. Just a pure pot mod has not been around for a while as many manufacturers went with a simple chip or mosfet. I am sure many did this to alleviate any liability around pure mechs. I would however not let this put you off, these pot mods hit harder and go a lot further in dual configuration than a single tube mech.

Hex Ohm, Tesla invader, Dovpo MVV II, Rincoe Beast are all good buys and would probably surprise you with how hard they hit. If you can find a Noisy cricket V2, grab it. As was explained to me, this mod uses PWM, which means 100% on and a !00% off when it fires. It hits harder than your tube mechs.

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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> As said, mod dependent. Just a pure pot mod has not been around for a while as many manufacturers went with a simple chip or mosfet. I am sure many did this to alleviate any liability around pure mechs. I would however not let this put you off, these pot mods hit harder and go a lot further in dual configuration than a single tube mech.
> 
> Hex Ohm, Tesla invader, Dovpo MVV II, Rincoe Beast are all good buys and would probably surprise you with how hard they hit. If you can find a Noisy cricket V2, grab it. As was explained to me, this mod uses PWM, which means 100% on and a !00% off when it fires. It hits harder than your tube mechs.


Thanx pal..

Just to confirm as i asked above. 

If i choose the invader or hexohm, whether it coms in series or parallel, do i need to build according to that even though they are chipped or mosed and not pure mech? 

Series /8.4v
Parallel /stacked A and MAH


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## Intuthu Kagesi (1/12/21)

Morix said:


> Hi there..
> Can we get a full explanation on how VV mods work and how to use them safely ( if thats even a thing). Stuff like the tesla invader, hexohm etc.
> What to do and what not to do.
> I have no experience with these as i have only been on mech tubes.
> Thank you.



Not too sure what you're asking for, or the granularity of detail required, so I'll start with this;

A Variable Voltage mod is a single, dual, triple or quad battery powered vape device that uses electronic circuitry to adjust and regulate the output voltage. Some of these devices include the option of variable wattage as well, and those mods will include a microprocessor of sorts to measure the load to be able to provide the correct wattage.

VV mods vary in complexity dependant primarily on the number of cells, and their maximum rated output voltage, (and features offered), for example a single cell VV mod more often than not will have a boost converter to raise the output voltage above a typical 4 Volts, before down regulating the final output voltage using Pulse Width Modulation,(PWM), whereas dual and more cell mods may or may not have boost converters, and only rely on PWM to down regulate the output voltage.

It stands to reason that as VV mods do not measure and or take into account load resistance, that the user will have to use their gumption with respect to loads and voltages applied, not unlike you would do on a Mechmod, just with a little more flexibility in that you can adjust the effective output voltage.

Reactions: Winner 2


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## Timwis (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> https://www.thevapery.co.za/collections/mods/products/rincoe-manto-beast-box-mod



I really like most Rincoe products but this is the one that I don't, nothing wrong with it's performance but in real life it both looks and feels "VERY CHEAP"!


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## Stranger (1/12/21)

@Morix 

I think I can see where your head is at, however what you will find is that with 8V on tap building low will have you turning that V setting way down.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Winner 1


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## Timwis (1/12/21)

I don't recall using one ever with the dial more than a third of the way up, powerful devices yet with built in chip which controls safety precautions such as resistance limits and voltage cut-off as long as quality high drained batteries are used with A+ condition wraps they are as safe as using fully regulated devices, best of both worlds really!

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## Stranger (1/12/21)

Here it is with a couple of Molicell 26A 18650's. it won't let me put in 0.08 but at 0.1 with 4 volts it is going to burn your mouth off. My concern here now is wire type. 40 amps is a crap load of current. Make sure that your wire can take it or you will test fire and cry that your wire has melted. Kanthal would probably be best.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thanks 1


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## Intuthu Kagesi (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> View attachment 245263
> 
> 
> Here it is with a couple of Molicell 26A 18650's. it won't let me put in 0.08 but at 0.1 with 4 volts it is going to burn your mouth off. My concern here now is wire type. 40 amps is a crap load of current. Make sure that your wire can take it or you will test fire and cry that your wire has melted. Kanthal would probably be best.



Check out this post ... 40 Amps  ... you can weld stainless steel with a 2mm rod at that current


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## Timwis (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> View attachment 245263
> 
> 
> Here it is with a couple of Molicell 26A 18650's. it won't let me put in 0.08 but at 0.1 with 4 volts it is going to burn your mouth off. My concern here now is wire type. 40 amps is a crap load of current. Make sure that your wire can take it or you will test fire and cry that your wire has melted. Kanthal would probably be best.


39 5 sec puffs seems very low for dual 26A Molicell's, should the battery capacity setting be for both batteries so 5200?


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## ARYANTO (1/12/21)

Morix said:


> Checked out that MVV 2. Really nice, think ill take a look around on the market. I realy like tge hexohms look though, as well the invader.
> 
> Thanks once again.


If money is not a prob , HEX , try getting hold of Squid Ind. Double barrel -beautiful mod -build to withstand any rough handling, 3 in my collection .MVV good mod , have 3 , Tesla invader - good choice -have 2. Clutch X18 - BEAUTIFUL mod , great in the hand if you are not a midget - WINK WINK

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## Morix (1/12/21)

Stranger said:


> @Morix
> 
> I think I can see where your head is at, however what you will find is that with 8V on tap building low will have you turning that V setting way down.
> View attachment 245260


Link this site please. My question isn't being answered.


ARYANTO said:


> If money is not a prob , HEX , try getting hold of Squid Ind. Double barrel -beautiful mod -build to withstand any rough handling, 3 in my collection .MVV good mod , have 3 , Tesla invader - good choice -have 2. Clutch X18 - BEAUTIFUL mod , great in the hand if you are not a midget - WINK WINK


Money is always a problem tbh... Ill go for the invader 4, she can take 18650, 20700 and 21700's. Plus i like the ww2 jerry can vibe.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Dela Rey Steyn (1/12/21)

Morix said:


> Link this site please. My question isn't being answered.



Are you referring to your question on whether your should build for series or parallel?

Reactions: Funny 1


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## DarthBranMuffin (1/12/21)

This is the specs on the Tesla Invader 4... so it reads and fires on 0.08 to 3 ohm (subject to the charge on your cells). Note the Cell type to be used as well.

The rest is up to you on where you start with the Potentiometer and where you find your happy place. It is not going to be a fire and forget setup and you will have to test it on different levels and different builds to find the peak performance that works for you.

Like me on my NCV2's, I run it with a build between 0.25 and 0.3ohm, on the regulated series setting at the lowest voltage level which is about the same for me as 45-50W on a regulated VW mod. That is my happy place. On the Dovpo MVV2 I had it with the same build but just past the II setting. So each mod is different for each vaper and you will have to try it and figure it out. No matter who says what here, you are not going to get an answer that relates back to exactly what you want to hear for you to just pick up a device, use it and be happy with it right off the bat. Trial and error is part of the experience.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Winner 2


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## Dela Rey Steyn (1/12/21)

DarthBranMuffin said:


> View attachment 245293
> 
> 
> This is the specs on the Tesla Invader 4... so it reads and fires on 0.08 to 3 ohm (subject to the charge on your cells). Note the Cell type to be used as well.
> ...


Agree 100% @Stranger has posted a few specs with voltage ranges. You have to build according to the Vape you want to achieve. Look at the mod that you want, see the voltage ranges, decide in which wattage range you want to Vape, build atty accordingly. Very simple.

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## Timwis (1/12/21)

DarthBranMuffin said:


> View attachment 245293
> 
> 
> This is the specs on the Tesla Invader 4... so it reads and fires on 0.08 to 3 ohm (subject to the charge on your cells). Note the Cell type to be used as well.
> ...


To add to this the settings vary because of the starting voltage output varies from mod to mod so with the Tesla 4 the starting point is 3v so really do need to start low and shouldn't need turning up much at all!, very powerful device!

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## Morix (2/12/21)

DarthBranMuffin said:


> View attachment 245293
> 
> 
> This is the specs on the Tesla Invader 4... so it reads and fires on 0.08 to 3 ohm (subject to the charge on your cells). Note the Cell type to be used as well.
> ...


Thanks this helps alot. I had a chat with @Stranger yesterday on whatsapp and he explained it pretty well. I currently vape at 0.11 with 30t ( as seen below) as the battery depletes it reaches that 70 to 85w and the place of joy i like. I dont mind the 120odd W at the fresh charge either. Back, WAY back on the drag my sweet spot was around 70 to 85w. In conclusion when i do pick up the tesla this is what i will be aiming for.


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## Stranger (2/12/21)

*People also ask*
Does battery capacity Add in series?
Connecting batteries in series *increases voltage*, but does not increase overall amp-hour capacity. All batteries in a series bank must have the same amp-hour rating. Connecting batteries in parallel increases total current capacity by decreasing total resistance, and it also increases overall amp-hour capacity.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Informative 1


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