# Dead Siren 22mm



## Spongebob (1/6/19)

Need some help from the technical minded vapers recently traded a Siren 22mm from someone (brand new) that somehow came DOA? Worked 5 minutes and then started with the dreaded "no atomizer" on all my mods? Tinkered around but could not find anything? Tried someone else's advice and used thicker wire and swapped the grub screws and it worked for a day and a half and then started acting up again and has now passed on 

I have checked 510 screw, coil seating, grub screws, everything i can think off, but no luck even had a multi meter on it, but could not find anything  even tried running coil wire directly from one grub screw to the other, but nada



Is there anything anybody else can think of that i can check., because in all my years of vaping, the siren 22 is the best vape i have ever hadand if at all possible i would REALLY like to get her back to life? 

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## Paul33 (1/6/19)

I’ve had a similar issue in a rda once and it ended up being a tiny tiny piece of wire offcut that was causing a short. I had to take it all apart and wash and rinse and that solved the problem. 

I hope you come right. Nothing more irritating.


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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

Paul33 said:


> I’ve had a similar issue in a rda once and it ended up being a tiny tiny piece of wire offcut that was causing a short. I had to take it all apart and wash and rinse and that solved the problem.
> 
> I hope you come right. Nothing more irritating.


I've taken it apart as far as I could the deck on the siren doesn't come out so can't check there

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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (1/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Need some help from the technical minded vapers recently traded a Siren 22mm from someone (brand new) that somehow came DOA? Worked 5 minutes and then started with the dreaded "no atomizer" on all my mods? Tinkered around but could not find anything? Tried someone else's advice and used thicker wire and swapped the grub screws and it worked for a day and a half and then started acting up again and has now passed on
> 
> I have checked 510 screw, coil seating, grub screws, everything i can think off, but no luck even had a multi meter on it, but could not find anything  even tried running coil wire directly from one grub screw to the other, but nada
> 
> ...


With the coil on, the multimeter said open circuit or short ? 


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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

I wouldn't know about that but there was no reading 

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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

How do i check that btwconnect meter and fire the mod

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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

Whoops just remembered the siren does not fire

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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

Riddle me this there is no continuity between the areas marked with arrows when tested so how did it fire in the first place 

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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

Whoops pic attached







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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (1/6/19)

This is the position of the knob on the multimeter u need to use for checking continuity





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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (1/6/19)

Now to test the rta, use the probes and touch it on the 510 connectors, like this. Notice the reading, this reading means there is continuity





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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (1/6/19)

Check and let me know, I will then guide u further. 

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## Spongebob (1/6/19)

Faiyaz Cheulkar said:


> Check and let me know, I will then guide u further.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk


That is what i didand almost everywhere i touched it beeped except between the two points with the arrows

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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (1/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> That is what i didand almost everywhere i touched it beeped except between the two points with the arrows
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


So I guessing u took out the positive pin(the screw) and the positive post, then u touched the probe on the 510 thread(the negative terminal) and the post, and u got no beep on the continuity tester. Is that right?

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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Yes exactly like that

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

If you put the positive pin back in the atty, do you get a reading on the pin+ and the post+?
And then also on the post+and the post -.


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## Resistance (2/6/19)

Also on the pin +and pin -?


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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Resistance said:


> If you put the positive pin back in the atty, do you get a reading on the pin+ and the post+?
> And then also on the post+and the post -.


ExplainI'm a banker not a techy

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

I have an atty that when its complete ,it does the same thing.its a kylin v1.
When I install a coil I get the error code no atty.
as soon as I undo the grub screws it starts reading the coil.
My question is. When your atty is completely assembled.do you get a reading from the positive pin to the positive post, and the same on the negative pin to the negative post.

Then also with the complete atty does it read between the two posts and pins respectively?
Trying to analize the actual cause


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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

If i am understanding you correctly positive pin to post yes, negative to post no? 

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

Ok rub a magnet on the atty sub assembly prefferably inside a cloth to avoid scratches.reasemble and check again on a mod


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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (2/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Yes exactly like that
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


The negative post and the 510 thread should be one piece, and there is no continuity. 
I will open my siren v2 and see if I can find a probable cause. 

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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Sub assembly 

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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Faiyaz Cheulkar said:


> The negative post and the 510 thread should be one piece, and there is no continuity.
> I will open my siren v2 and see if I can find a probable cause.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk


Thanks buddy

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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Resistance said:


> Ok rub a magnet on the atty sub assembly prefferably inside a cloth to avoid scratches.reasemble and check again on a mod


No such luck 

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

I think these two parts are either screwed into each other. Unscrewing it will be a nightmare without a vice or some sort and a wrench of some sort.
its too complecated to be machined as one part and im dumping the idea of press fit.


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## Resistance (2/6/19)

Resistance said:


> I think these two parts are either screwed into each other. Unscrewing it will be a nightmare without a vice or some sort and a wrench of some sort.
> its too complecated to be machined as one part and im dumping the idea of press fit.



I think the threads are gunked or something, but thats my take on it.


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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Ok cool thanx 

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Ok cool thanx
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


 other reasoning I have on this is .I replaced a glass on a vega tank for someone. Hes tank completely dissasembles and on mine I can't replace the glass because its screwed in too tight and had to slip a hdpe tube over so I can use the tank.


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## Resistance (2/6/19)

I have read about it because I never owned one. Check for a screw underneath the base.
they said it should disassemble after doing this.
also highlighted where I think the problem would be with yellow arrows


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## Resistance (2/6/19)

It looks like its most likley where the bottom arrow is that your problem is coming from.
hope you get this Atty sorted.


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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Resistance said:


> other reasoning I have on this is .I replaced a glass on a vega tank for someone. Hes tank completely dissasembles and on mine I can't replace the glass because its screwed in too tight and had to slip a hdpe tube over so I can use the tank.


Dont understand 

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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Resistance said:


> I have read about it because I never owned one. Check for a screw underneath the base.
> they said it should disassemble after doing this.
> also highlighted where I think the problem would be with yellow arrows
> View attachment 168033


Where exactly will the screw be and where did you read this 

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Dont understand
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk



ok. a friend has a tank twisp vega tank. it completely comes apart so if his glass breaks, which it did. the glass can be replaced.
I also have a vega tank that doesnt come apart.or maybe I have not tried hard enough.
the point is your Atty base should come apart.the question is how?

there isnt pics its just descusions that are really vague but they all say the same thing. it comes apart.


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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Ok i get what ur saying, will investigate 

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## Spongebob (2/6/19)

Nah i don't see anything  either screwed in or press fitted only way will be a vice and pliers maybe I'm just crazy enough to try that but i have another idea...... 

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## Resistance (2/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Nah i don't see anything  either screwed in or press fitted only way will be a vice and pliers maybe I'm just crazy enough to try that but i have another idea......
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk



heat?
I won't recommend it.
try laying it in a solvent like alcohol overnight.


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## Resistance (2/6/19)

or what do you think @Faiyaz Cheulkar ?


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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (2/6/19)

Resistance said:


> or what do you think @Faiyaz Cheulkar ?


I am still wondering how can a solid piece of metal or two pieces of metal stuck/riveted/screwed together cannot conduct electricity.

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## Resistance (3/6/19)

Faiyaz Cheulkar said:


> I am still wondering how can a solid piece of metal or two pieces of metal stuck/riveted/screwed together cannot conduct electricity.



that happens on my vega mod,in that case I know it is the mod.

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## Resistance (3/6/19)

Faiyaz Cheulkar said:


> I am still wondering how can a solid piece of metal or two pieces of metal stuck/riveted/screwed together cannot conduct electricity.



in this case if theres threads/pressed fitted it could have a buildup or even oxidation.
same like when a lead acid battery builds up on the terminal.
at least thats my theory.
and if im wrong I would myself want to know the answer to that same question

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## Spongebob (3/6/19)

Me thinks this is what it looks like inside, and somewhere in between should be something that connects the two halfs to create continuity, which now obviously does not connect so seeing that i used it, the short time it worked, with the airflow fully open, me is gonna drill a hole in the middle somewhere and screw a screw in that should and the operative word is "should" connect the two parts again

Any thoughts gents






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## Resistance (3/6/19)

first see if where you start losing continuity.
so start at the pin and move your way up to the post


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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (3/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Me thinks this is what it looks like inside, and somewhere in between should be something that connects the two halfs to create continuity, which now obviously does not connect so seeing that i used it, the short time it worked, with the airflow fully open, me is gonna drill a hole in the middle somewhere and screw a screw in that should and the operative word is "should" connect the two parts again
> 
> Any thoughts gents
> 
> ...



please wait till tomorrow, I will try to figure this out or at least come up with a less destructive workaround . This problem is driving me nuts, if you were in cape town I would have come to you to see it with my own eyes. @Gandalf Vapes any suggestions?

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## Spongebob (4/6/19)

Faiyaz Cheulkar said:


> please wait till tomorrow, I will try to figure this out or at least come up with a less destructive workaround . This problem is driving me nuts, if you were in cape town I would have come to you to see it with my own eyes. @Gandalf Vapes any suggestions?


I don't see any other way but will give u the benefit of the doubt 

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## Resistance (9/6/19)

Anything yet?

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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (9/6/19)

forgot to reply to this thread, I opened up mine and I can see the 510 thread is stuck to the post, almost like they are one piece. 
I suggest put it in an oven for an hour at 180-degree Celcius. There is a small plastic like insulator inside the 510 thread, but I think its made to resist high temperatures so shouldn't get damage.

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## Spongebob (9/6/19)

Played around yesterday and sort of got it up and runninghere's the thing.... It only works 100% on my ijust s battery moment i take it off the ijust and stick it onto another mod, fires ones or twice and then conks still baffles the #@% outa me... 

I'm leaning toward either sub standard metal, or the paint used or something similar causing a weak connection  ur guess is as good as mine 

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## Room Fogger (9/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Played around yesterday and sort of got it up and runninghere's the thing.... It only works 100% on my ijust s battery moment i take it off the ijust and stick it onto another mod, fires ones or twice and then conks still baffles the #@% outa me...
> 
> I'm leaning toward either sub standard metal, or the paint used or something similar causing a weak connection  ur guess is as good as mine
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


@Spongebob , when assembled how far does the positive pin protrude at the bottom? 

I could run one tank I had when I started on the ijust S but nothing on Pico, problem seemed to have been that the positive pin was a bit shortish or too long thereby adjusting too little/too much. Maybe see if this can solve it,? Think I added a small washer to lift it a bit. Gap will kill you if you have OCD but at least you will have the flavour Monster going. My current ones protrude nearly a mm . 

Just an idea, but when it’s solved please publish for the rest of us that have the Srens, you never know when we will need it.

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## Faiyaz Cheulkar (10/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Played around yesterday and sort of got it up and runninghere's the thing.... It only works 100% on my ijust s battery moment i take it off the ijust and stick it onto another mod, fires ones or twice and then conks still baffles the #@% outa me...
> 
> I'm leaning toward either sub standard metal, or the paint used or something similar causing a weak connection  ur guess is as good as mine
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk



glad to know its somewhat working now. Can u do another continuity check and tell what happens now?

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## Resistance (10/6/19)

I would take it to a jeweler and ask him to silver solder the shut out of that joint

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## Spongebob (11/6/19)

If i knew which joint i would 

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## Resistance (11/6/19)

[QUOTEarrowpongebob, post: 785764, member: 6433"]If i knew which joint i would 

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Bottom arrow


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## Spongebob (12/6/19)

Flavour beast back in operation since the "disconnect" was between the two arrows in the previous pics I took some 26 gauge kanthal wire and wrapped it in a spiral between the two arrows  and it workedall connections now talking to one another






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## Resistance (14/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Flavour beast back in operation since the "disconnect" was between the two arrows in the previous pics I took some 26 gauge kanthal wire and wrapped it in a spiral between the two arrows  and it workedall connections now talking to one another
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome bro. Happy you found the problem. My theory is still, that there is gunk in that joint/s. At least you have it working. Still check if you can have it soldered by a jeweler. They have all the fine metal working tools and they can do it neatly.
Happy vaping!

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## Resistance (14/6/19)

What is the resistance on your atty with the wire wrapped around it?
Idoes it match the coil resistance or is it slightly more?

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## Silver (16/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Flavour beast back in operation since the "disconnect" was between the two arrows in the previous pics I took some 26 gauge kanthal wire and wrapped it in a spiral between the two arrows  and it workedall connections now talking to one another
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Well done @Spongebob for getting the comms going!

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## Spongebob (19/6/19)

Nah, she died again I'm telling u there's a spook in this one  works for a while but the moment i touch something, it dies this time I just opened the airflow and gonk.... Off to lala land 

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## Resistance (19/6/19)

And nothing if you re adjust the airflow?


Spongebob said:


> Nah, she died again I'm telling u there's a spook in this one  works for a while but the moment i touch something, it dies this time I just opened the airflow and gonk.... Off to lala land
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

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## Spongebob (19/6/19)

Nope 

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## Resistance (19/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Nope
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk



not cool

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## Resistance (19/6/19)

@Spongebob at this stage I would apply me some heat to this here problem and maybe it will figure it self out.

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## Spongebob (20/6/19)

I might just do that

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## Resistance (20/6/19)

If you do remove all plastic parts



Spongebob said:


> I might just do that
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


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## vicTor (21/6/19)

when is the funeral ?

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## Spongebob (21/6/19)

vicTor said:


> when is the funeral ?


Why do you say that

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## vicTor (21/6/19)

Spongebob said:


> Why do you say that
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk



hi, it was just a joke, seems you have tried really hard to figure things out, hats off to that, I would have given up ages ago

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## Resistance (21/6/19)

Never give up! Never surrender!

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## blujeenz (28/6/19)

@Spongebob dont know if you've given up or fixed your siren yet, but here's an exploded view of my 24mm.
The section between the red arrows seems to be a solid SS piece and should measure 0 ohms between the 510 threads and top section where the coil mounts.
Likewise when assembled the section from the gold 510 screw to the top section between the green arrows should also measure 0 ohms.
Dont know if this is of any help but I dont figure the 22mm should be very different from the 24mm.

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## Spongebob (28/6/19)

blujeenz said:


> @Spongebob dont know if you've given up or fixed your siren yet, but here's an exploded view of my 24mm.
> The section between the red arrows seems to be a solid SS piece and should measure 0 ohms between the 510 threads and top section where the coil mounts.
> Likewise when assembled the section from the gold 510 screw to the top section between the green arrows should also measure 0 ohms.
> Dont know if this is of any help but I dont figure the 22mm should be very different from the 24mm.
> ...


Thanks buddy will have a look when i tackle it againgiving it a rest for now

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