# Weekend Projects



## Resistance

A thread where we can share weekend projects, projects, DIY ,etc even the ones you want to tackle.

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## Resistance

@Dela Rey Steyn , @ARYANTO , @vicTor , @AKS @Rob Fisher , @Christos , @blujeenz , @Raindance
@alex1501
@delon
@Norman Anderson

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## Resistance

So I'll start with something that was done last weekend. An organiser for my DIY stock.

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## ARYANTO

My projects is still ongoing - busy painting the main gate today, while my painter is busy paining Caitlin's room the same green and grey as mine - she wanted the same colours .

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## vicTor

project Pineapple Beer happening this weekend

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## ARYANTO

This is my new entrance for my bedroom ,with the small patio/balcony, sliding doors and new tiles , the outside walls are painted in the new colour ,need to do the downpipes still and some minor touch ups. The ramp is screeted and the levels meets up .

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## Resistance

vicTor said:


> project Pineapple Beer happening this weekend


Pics or it didn't happen!

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## vicTor

Resistance said:


> Pics or it didn't happen!



just look at these pretties

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## NecroticAngel

vicTor said:


> just look at these pretties
> 
> View attachment 202898


I have 25 litres on the go hehe  well one 5l isnt pineapple its cranberry orange pinapple and granadilla

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## Resistance

vicTor said:


> just look at these pretties
> 
> View attachment 202898


Brown paper bag or news paper for a week and you should be good to go.

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## blujeenz

Finished a mag stir plate last week. I'd burnt out 3 dc motors and decided to upgrade.
So its a 24V brushless motor from a Zerox workcenter, the paper feed one with all gears removed. 20 amp ESC with BEC from my RC plane days, controlled by a diy servo tester. RPM's from 500 to 1700 at 12V DC, works well with no heating up after 2hrs stirring.

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## blujeenz

This weekend was trying to silver solder a custom 510 for a box mod, brass to SS, was a dismal failure so Ill have to wait for Monday to get some flux.
The brass disc was cut with a 18mm bi-metal hole saw, just needs tapping with 7x 0.5 which is easy enough.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> This weekend was trying to silver solder a custom 510 for a box mod, brass to SS, was a dismal failure so Ill have to wait for Monday to get some flux.
> The brass disc was cut with a 18mm bi-metal hole saw, just needs tapping with 7x 0.5 which is easy enough.
> View attachment 202926
> View attachment 202927


Hi @blujeenz try some lemon juice as replacement for the flux. Vinegar might also help

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finished a mag stir plate last week. I'd burnt out 3 dc motors and decided to upgrade.
> So its a 24V brushless motor from a Zerox workcenter, the paper feed one with all gears removed. 20 amp ESC with BEC from my RC plane days, controlled by a diy servo tester. RPM's from 500 to 1700 at 12V DC, works well with no heating up after 2hrs stirring.
> View attachment 202924
> 
> View attachment 202925


This is cool. 
I have sourced a fan and might be taking on a similar project.

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## Resistance

for the mixer project.

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> View attachment 202938
> for the mixer project.


180 mA is going to struggle as soon as you add the VG.
Might want to try cutting off all the fan blades for less drag.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> 180 mA is going to struggle as soon as you add the VG.
> Might want to try cutting off all the fan blades for less drag.


I figured as much, that's why I didn't start yet just in case I got a bigger fan. I saw the driver board is also burnt. Would have been nice because it has variable voltage. circuit.
I will see what I can source in the week.

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## Resistance

Resistance said:


> I figured as much, that's why I didn't start yet just in case I got a bigger fan. I saw the driver board is also burnt. Would have been nice because it has variable voltage. circuit.
> I will see what I can source in the week.


What do you think of a 240v fan @blujeenz

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## Room Fogger

Not a typical weekend project, but having to remove ceilings and chiseling open cracks in walls to parapet height on outbuildings, reappointing and filling with new mortar, plastering and refinishing and waterproofing. Gives me time to redo the shelving and storage as well. When you can see your neighbors pool from inside, and after a 3 or 4 year fight with insurance I’m having to fix it myself, before portions of it move to his yard.  And then I start on the house!

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## Resistance

Room Fogger said:


> Not a typical weekend project, but having to remove ceilings and chiseling open cracks in walls to parapet height on outbuildings, reappointing and filling with new mortar, plastering and refinishing and waterproofing. Gives me time to redo the shelving and storage as well. When you can see your neighbors pool from inside, and after a 3 or 4 year fight with insurance I’m having to fix it myself, before portions of it move to his yard.  And then I start on the house!


Any projects welcome.
Pics or it didn't happen

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## AKS

Ja so this was meant to take 21 days (original lockdown) but life happened.

Still not quite done yet...

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> What do you think of a 240v fan @blujeenz


Probably not a good idea.
The reason is that fans are designed to move volumes of air and they do that with rpm's in the 2000 range.
My 35mm magnetic stir bar jumps out of the flow at 1000rpm, roughly halfway on the pot.

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## supermoto

Not exactly a weekend project. More of a semi retirement one. I bought an old settlers cottage that hadn't been lived in for 40 years but had been an occasional holiday home for someone who is now too old to travel. It needs a lot of work. First big item.. The roof and yes I am doing all the work myself with only my wife as an assistant.

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## ARYANTO

The main gate is still slightly wet so need to wait for 2nd coat of paint , the street facing wall is next . I was notified that I was needed at work tomorrow and maybe Tuesday - so painting must wait .

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## ARYANTO

supermoto said:


> Not exactly a weekend project. More of a semi retirement one. I bought an old settlers cottage that hadn't been lived in for 40 years but had been an occasional holiday home for someone who is now too old to travel. It needs a lot of work. First big item.. The roof and yes I am doing all the work myself with only my wife as an assistant.
> View attachment 202977
> View attachment 202977
> View attachment 202978
> View attachment 202979
> View attachment 202980
> View attachment 202981


Looking good - can see this is not a weekend project.

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## ARYANTO

AKS said:


> View attachment 202961
> Ja so this was meant to take 21 days (original lockdown) but life happened.
> 
> Still not quite done yet...


Nice !

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## Resistance

AKS said:


> View attachment 202961
> Ja so this was meant to take 21 days (original lockdown) but life happened.
> 
> Still not quite done yet...



Whoever is building this is doing a nice job. It looks good bro.

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## Resistance

supermoto said:


> Not exactly a weekend project. More of a semi retirement one. I bought an old settlers cottage that hadn't been lived in for 40 years but had been an occasional holiday home for someone who is now too old to travel. It needs a lot of work. First big item.. The roof and yes I am doing all the work myself with only my wife as an assistant.
> View attachment 202977
> View attachment 202977
> View attachment 202978
> View attachment 202979
> View attachment 202980
> View attachment 202981



Smart.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> This weekend was trying to silver solder a custom 510 for a box mod, brass to SS, was a dismal failure so Ill have to wait for Monday to get some flux.
> The brass disc was cut with a 18mm bi-metal hole saw, just needs tapping with 7x 0.5 which is easy enough.
> View attachment 202926
> View attachment 202927


Did you try the lemon juice for the soldering?

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Probably not a good idea.
> The reason is that fans are designed to move volumes of air and they do that with rpm's in the 2000 range.
> My 35mm magnetic stir bar jumps out of the flow at 1000rpm, roughly halfway on the pot.



I was looking at a 240volt pc fan from a psu ,but what your saying makes sense. I will keep that in mind.

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Did you try the lemon juice for the soldering?


Not soldering, silver soldering, its like brazing but with a high silver content rod.
The SS gets cherry red, so lemon juice is just going to flash burn and leave a brown residue behind.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Not soldering, silver soldering, its like brazing but with a high silver content rod.
> The SS gets cherry red, so lemon juice is just going to flash burn and leave a brown residue behind.


https://www.ehow.com/how_6006005_make-silver-soldering-flux.html

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> https://www.ehow.com/how_6006005_make-silver-soldering-flux.html


Useful info.
I have the standard brazing flux, white powder in a plastic tub, but its not working too well.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Useful info.
> I have the standard brazing flux, white powder in a plastic tub, but its not working too well.


I normally use the plumbing flux. Blue or red top yellow container works equally well. Can't get to the name but will post it when I recall it

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Useful info.
> I have the standard brazing flux, white powder in a plastic tub, but its not working too well.


https://www.builders.co.za/Plumbing...6f5WZQ78AUA4KzJydXkOYKVTSNDB83N0aApOIEALw_wcB
https://www.builders.co.za/Plumbing...avBhly0F4fc2SQdL66kohu7bIEwthYQQaAm1wEALw_wcB
The brand is Nasco

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> https://www.builders.co.za/Plumbing...6f5WZQ78AUA4KzJydXkOYKVTSNDB83N0aApOIEALw_wcB
> https://www.builders.co.za/Plumbing...avBhly0F4fc2SQdL66kohu7bIEwthYQQaAm1wEALw_wcB
> The brand is Nasco


This was the stuff I was looking for, mix with water into a paste, spread on the parts and clamp.
R280 from Trojan Trading in Marconi Rd.

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## Stranger

Bit the bullet and bought a Geyserwise.

Man I wish I had done this sooner. I have a 200L solar geyser on the roof which by design feeds a 150L one in the roof. The 4kw element in the 200L one is disconnected and the 3Kw in the 150 is active.

What an easy install and a pleasure to work with. I can now program when and how the element comes on and for how long and what temp. The hope is that during the summer months I won't need it on at all.

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## NecroticAngel

This will be starting this weekend with stuff I have laying around. No great hurry to get it done. Will make little items for it when I have the time

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## blujeenz

Saturdays fail is Mondays win, with enough heat and the right flux, SS/brass hybrid 510 is silver soldered.
I've been getting good use out of the old Bellus since lockdown, cheaper on the juice. 
The groove on the right is for the negative feed from the N-fet mosfet, which can now be soldered with acid core solder without worrying if the brass disk is going to slide off.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Saturdays fail is Mondays win, with enough heat and the right flux, SS/brass hybrid 510 is silver soldered.
> I've been getting good use out of the old Bellus since lockdown, cheaper on the juice.
> The groove on the right is for the negative feed from the N-fet mosfet, which can now be soldered with acid core solder without worrying if the brass disk is going to slide off.
> View attachment 203091


Well done.
Pity you had to wait till today ,but it's worth it when you get it done!
Awesome!

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## supermoto

Last bit of the front roof finished just in time for the rain. Just for fun who can identify the items in the second picture.

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## Dela Rey Steyn

supermoto said:


> Last bit of the front roof finished just in time for the rain. Just for fun who can identify the items in the second picture.
> View attachment 203252
> View attachment 203253
> View attachment 203254


Monkey poop?

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## Stranger

Can you polish them ?

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## supermoto

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Monkey poop?


Half correct

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## supermoto

Stranger said:


> Can you polish them ?


Yes but they still don't shine

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## Dela Rey Steyn

supermoto said:


> Half correct


Baboon Poop?

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## supermoto

I was a bit shocked when i found out it wss snake droppings.. I have Been a bit more cautious since

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## Dela Rey Steyn

supermoto said:


> I was a bit shocked when i found out it wss snake droppings.. I have Been a bit more cautious since


Very interesting!
Do you have a photo with some form of object where it can be scaled against?

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## Stranger

Scaled

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## supermoto



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## Stranger

I must be honest, I kept snakes for over 25 years and have yet to see a dripping like that. My biggest was a Taiwanese rat snake, over 2m long and about as thick as my wrist. I also had a Black rat snake who was not far short of that. They had an exclusive rat diet and the poops were rarely solid.

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## Dela Rey Steyn

Can honestly say in all my years of handling and catching/relocating snakes, I've yet to come across a pile of scat that big all in one place.

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## Stranger

To me that looks like Owl, the fact that it is in the roof strengthens my debate. Also on the list is African wild cat or Civet.

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## supermoto

The flat roof section which is 120 mm from ceiling to roof was also filled with the same droppings. There was evidence of a lot of rat activity at one time but only 2 carcasses up to now. And the carcass of what looked to be a young mongoose. Also bear in mind this place has been used only once or twice a year for around 40 years

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## Stranger

Well, there is a lot of poop and there is never just one mongoose

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## Resistance

supermoto said:


> Last bit of the front roof finished just in time for the rain. Just for fun who can identify the items in the second picture.
> View attachment 203252
> View attachment 203253
> View attachment 203254


Well done, good job!
It looks awesome.

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## Resistance

@Stew , your project is welcome here.

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## Stew

Resistance said:


> @Stew , your project is welcome here.


Thanks. Posting now.

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## Stew

Hi. I was given some atty connectors from broken mods by @Christos after I asked about 510 inserts. I had already bought two curtain rail whatever's. The following pictures are of the progress. I don't have a lathe so from the initial curtain goodies it was turned on my drilling machine in a cheap drill press.

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## Resistance

Stew said:


> Hi. I was given some atty connectors from broken mods by @Christos after I asked about 510 inserts. I had already bought two curtain rail whatever's. The following pictures are of the progress. I don't have a lathe so from the initial curtain goodies it was turned on my drilling machine in a cheap drill press.
> View attachment 203640



Nicely done and it came out real nice as well. Good job @Stew

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## Resistance

I was going to do a project of my own today, but I ended up working. I got a lot done though.


Hopefully I'll get to do a project soon.

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## Stew

Resistance said:


> Nicely done and it came out real nice as well. Good job @Stew


Thanks very much. So chuffed. Never would have been able to splash out on one, now I have three. LOL. So greatfull to @Christos.

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## Resistance

Stew said:


> Thanks very much. So chuffed. Never would have been able to splash out on one, now I have three. LOL. So greatfull to @Christos.



Don't worry. That three will double, in time.

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## Stew

Resistance said:


> I was going to do a project today but I ended up working. I got a lot done though.
> View attachment 203655
> 
> Hopefully I'll get to do a project soon.


Maintenance around the home is very rewarding afterwards.
My wife comes from a none DIY / technical family.
When I first met her I would say I will fix this or that etc. She would say, you can't do that. Then later something would break at her folks home, "Don't worry, Stew will fix it."
Then one day my vacume cleaner broke and I said we have to buy a new one. Jeepers, I was in trouble, "But you fix everything."

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## Resistance

Stew said:


> Maintenance around the home is very rewarding afterwards.
> My wife comes from a none DIY / technical family.
> When I first met her I would say I will fix this or that etc. She would say, you can't do that. Then later something would break at her folks home, "Don't worry, Stew will fix it."
> Then one day my vacume cleaner broke and I said we have to buy a new one. Jeepers, I was in trouble, "But you fix everything."



I had a few situations like that, but it adds to the experience of DIY and the laugh afterwords.

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## Stew

Resistance said:


> Nicely done and it came out real nice as well. Good job @Stew


Thanks very much.

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## Silver

AKS said:


> View attachment 202961
> Ja so this was meant to take 21 days (original lockdown) but life happened.
> 
> Still not quite done yet...



oh my word, this is phenomenal @AKS !

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## Silver

This is such a great threat you started @Resistance 
Thanks!

am fascinated to see all the projects people are doing
You are all so talented
From wendyhouses to roofing and deciding on snake poop
Can’t believe it
Amazing

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## AKS

Finished up late at night,but it’s done...

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## AKS



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## Silver

That is amazing @AKS 
Well done
My junior would probably go mad with joy if he had that to play with 

Congrats

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## Stew

AKS said:


> Finished up late at night,but it’s done...
> View attachment 203699


Very nice and some really happy Kiddies.

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## AKS

Correction,nearly done.
Just have to install the command console inside.

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## Silver

Oh my word, @AKS 
This is amazing !

are you a woodworker by profession if I may ask?
You make such amazing things

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## NecroticAngel

Not a weekend project but whenever I get a bit of time project I'm doing up this table  women's day treat I'm doing some tonight instead of working

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## AKS

Silver said:


> Oh my word, @AKS
> This is amazing !
> 
> are you a woodworker by profession if I may ask?
> You make such amazing things


No,just like playing with wood,metal etc.
Grew up with access to tools,woodshop and powertools.
Just tinker a lot. I do admire old school carpenters immensely though.

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## Resistance

Resistance said:


> I was going to do a project of my own today, but I ended up working. I got a lot done though.
> View attachment 203655
> 
> Hopefully I'll get to do a project soon.



This isn't actually a project of mine. Although I'm doing it. I started posting so not sure if it's fair to post it. Let me know how you feel.

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## Silver

AKS said:


> No,just like playing with wood,metal etc.
> Grew up with access to tools,woodshop and powertools.
> Just tinker a lot. I do admire old school carpenters immensely though.



that’s super @AKS

I also admire good woodwork
When I moved into my place about 10yrs ago I wanted to get an extendable dining room table
But because space was fairly limited I wanted a round one
Never seen a round one that extends to an oval shaped table

found Hartman & Kepler, 2nd generation expert furniture makers
Spoke to the owner Mr Hartman (founders son) and explained what I wanted
He said they can do it

Went into their factory to see it being made - with the chairs
Oh my gosh, I was amazed
Almost all done by hand

Still use the table every day and it looks like the day we got it
Amazing

Sad to hear that they hardly make anything these days, mostly now customers going for imports
So most of their craftsmen are not there, I think none are there any more
It’s such a shame

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## Christos

Silver said:


> that’s super @AKS
> 
> I also admire good woodwork
> When I moved into my place about 10yrs ago I wanted to get an extendable dining room table
> But because space was fairly limited I wanted a round one
> Never seen a round one that extends to an oval shaped table
> 
> found Hartman & Kepler, 2nd generation expert furniture makers
> Spoke to the owner Mr Hartman (founders son) and explained what I wanted
> He said they can do it
> 
> Went into their factory to see it being made - with the chairs
> Oh my gosh, I was amazed
> Almost all done by hand
> 
> Still use the table every day and it looks like the day we got it
> Amazing
> 
> Sad to hear that they hardly make anything these days, mostly now customers going for imports
> So most of their craftsmen are not there, I think none are there any more
> It’s such a shame


It’s also becoming more difficult to find a decent piece of wood that doesn’t have. 9000% markup. And 9/10 the wood isn’t even a decent piece .

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## NecroticAngel

Christos said:


> It’s also becoming more difficult to find a decent piece of wood that doesn’t have. 9000% markup. And 9/10 the wood isn’t even a decent piece .


Found my table at the dump

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## NecroticAngel

Was too burnt to sand down. (the top) so embraced the knobbly bits and decided to paint it. No detail yet but I have the basic outline so far. Sides will be a compass all the way round with chains and feathers running down the legs

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## Resistance

Christos said:


> It’s also becoming more difficult to find a decent piece of wood that doesn’t have. 9000% markup. And 9/10 the wood isn’t even a decent piece .


Best it to have one made up or make it yourself.

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## Christos

NecroticAngel said:


> Was too burnt to sand down. (the top) so embraced the knobbly bits and decided to paint it. No detail yet but I have the basic outline so far. Sides will be a compass all the way round with chains and feathers running down the legs
> View attachment 203757
> View attachment 203758
> View attachment 203759
> View attachment 203760


Somehow this is becoming better then the bare polished wood I had in mind.

interesting story, the wood I was after needed to be off a certain kind to avoid sagging with a heavy consistent weight. 
There is a calculator available if you google the sagulator.

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## Resistance

Christos said:


> Somehow this is becoming better then the bare polished wood I had in mind.
> 
> interesting story, the wood I was after needed to be off a certain kind to avoid sagging with a heavy consistent weight.
> There is a calculator available if you google the sagulator.


Bamboo???

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## Christos

Resistance said:


> Best it to have one made up or make it yourself.


I actually found a very simple and cheap way to make a clamp that looks to be even better than clamping with store bought clamps.

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## Christos

Resistance said:


> Bamboo???


I have no love for bamboo. Was looking at white oak or ash.

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## NecroticAngel

Christos said:


> Somehow this is becoming better then the bare polished wood I had in mind.
> 
> interesting story, the wood I was after needed to be off a certain kind to avoid sagging with a heavy consistent weight.
> There is a calculator available if you google the sagulator.


My mum (butch) taught me how to help her restore antique furniture when I was a kid. And truly I understand the beauty of restored wood I spent many happy hours as a lightie with tiny files in my hands getting into the cracks. This one was blasted to bugger. But she's a strong old lady problem was despite it being very thick, the top was just a veneer of good wood, and she had a hole burnt right down the middle of it. If I'd sanded it all to that level she would have had to have another piece on top(I can't buy that stuff hehe it's why I shop at the dump) . She's lovely and strong, and now she will just have to spend her days now as a steampunk hippiegoth creation 

the damage is only really deep in that one spot, and I plan to fill it with varnish. (this part I don't know what I'm doing) but with alot of time drying out don't see why it won't work?

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## Stew

@NecroticAngel, looks super.

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## Christos

NecroticAngel said:


> My mum (butch) taught me how to help her restore antique furniture when I was a kid. And truly I understand the beauty of restored wood I spent many happy hours as a lightie with tiny files in my hands getting into the cracks. This one was blasted to bugger. But she's a strong old lady problem was despite it being very thick, the top was just a veneer of good wood, and she had a hole burnt right down the middle of it. If I'd sanded it all to that level she would have had to have another piece on top(I can't buy that stuff hehe it's why I shop at the dump) . She's lovely and strong, and now she will just have to spend her days now as a steampunk hippiegoth creation
> View attachment 203761
> the damage is only really deep in that one spot, and I plan to fill it with varnish. (this part I don't know what I'm doing) but with alot of time drying out don't see why it won't work?


Wood filler and a light sand and then paint!

Reactions: Like 4


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## NecroticAngel

Christos said:


> Wood filler and a light sand and then paint!


Me and the wood filler that chips out or falls off.... I'm guessing you live in average climes where temperatures don't shoot up or down? Hehe I'm just gonna keep my hole and try level it with varnish... (there is some wood filler in the table, with big chunks I've never had luck)

Reactions: Like 5


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## Christos

NecroticAngel said:


> Me and the wood filler that chips out or falls off.... I'm guessing you live in average climes where temperatures don't shoot up or down? Hehe I'm just gonna keep my hole and try level it with varnish... (there is some wood filler in the table, with big chunks I've never had luck)


You could use CA and a filler like bicarbonate of soda.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 2


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## Resistance

NecroticAngel said:


> My mum (butch) taught me how to help her restore antique furniture when I was a kid. And truly I understand the beauty of restored wood I spent many happy hours as a lightie with tiny files in my hands getting into the cracks. This one was blasted to bugger. But she's a strong old lady problem was despite it being very thick, the top was just a veneer of good wood, and she had a hole burnt right down the middle of it. If I'd sanded it all to that level she would have had to have another piece on top(I can't buy that stuff hehe it's why I shop at the dump) . She's lovely and strong, and now she will just have to spend her days now as a steampunk hippiegoth creation
> View attachment 203761
> the damage is only really deep in that one spot, and I plan to fill it with varnish. (this part I don't know what I'm doing) but with alot of time drying out don't see why it won't work?


Brilliant!

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## Resistance

Christos said:


> You could use CA and a filler like bicarbonate of soda.


CA and wood dust, wood glue and wood dust, veneer(layered) and wood glue take more time but the finish will match.

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1 | Useful 1


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## Resistance

Christos said:


> Somehow this is becoming better then the bare polished wood I had in mind.
> 
> interesting story, the wood I was after needed to be off a certain kind to avoid sagging with a heavy consistent weight.
> There is a calculator available if you google the sagulator.


https://leroymerlin.co.za/table-top...698FfJYu9El2eIzeu6max1k6xfZ__kBBoCiUMQAvD_BwE this is the quickest most economical way.

Reactions: Like 3


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## Resistance

@Christos 
https://leroymerlin.co.za/table-top...1414985?refSrc=7934&nosto=nosto-page-product2

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## Christos

Resistance said:


> https://leroymerlin.co.za/table-top...698FfJYu9El2eIzeu6max1k6xfZ__kBBoCiUMQAvD_BwE this is the quickest most economical way.


I was actually going to go but they are an hour away from me and they aren’t really good with stock in the website and stock in hand. 
I opted for board masters and a mdf/ supaboard for the moment as it’s 10 minutes from me and transportation wasn’t an issue. 
I got 2x 1.8mx1m tops for R1400 with edging.

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## Resistance

Christos said:


> I was actually going to go but they are an hour away from me and they aren’t really good with stock in the website and stock in hand.
> I opted for board masters and a mdf/ supaboard for the moment as it’s 10 minutes from me and transportation wasn’t an issue.
> I got 2x 1.8mx1m tops for R1400 with edging.


Superwood should last a while as long as it's properly sealed and no moisture can penetrate.
And Happy Birthday bro!

Reactions: Like 3 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance



Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 7


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## Christos

Resistance said:


> Superwood should last a while as long as it's properly sealed and no moisture can penetrate.
> And Happy Birthday bro!


Yup, it’s safe and very strong actually, so will use it for about 2 years or when I have project cash flow again as I’m wanting to redo all my plumbing and this may be a 2 year project because I also have to replace galvanized pipes in walls and once the walls are “open” I’m going to redo the bathrooms. 

been looking at baths and mixers and they sure aren’t cheap! 

I’m thinking of redoing the line from the municipal entry and rerouting all pipes above ground for leak purposes in future as well as making taps more accessible around the house as I only have 2 external taps on the same side of the house. 

same goes with plug points. I only have 1 plugpoint per room but this project is tied with my solar aspirations as I want to run underfloor heating that is powered exclusively by solar with no battery backup.

Reactions: Like 6


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## Christos

Resistance said:


> View attachment 203863


I need to learn how to tile and plaster. 
Both skills I’ve never needed to learn before!

Reactions: Like 4


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## Resistance

Christos said:


> Yup, it’s safe and very strong actually, so will use it for about 2 years or when I have project cash flow again as I’m wanting to redo all my plumbing and this may be a 2 year project because I also have to replace galvanized pipes in walls and once the walls are “open” I’m going to redo the bathrooms.
> 
> been looking at baths and mixers and they sure aren’t cheap!
> 
> I’m thinking of redoing the line from the municipal entry and rerouting all pipes above ground for leak purposes in future as well as making taps more accessible around the house as I only have 2 external taps on the same side of the house.
> 
> same goes with plug points. I only have 1 plugpoint per room but this project is tied with my solar aspirations as I want to run underfloor heating that is powered exclusively by solar with no battery backup.


I could give you some tips on bathrooms.
As for plumbing. It's expensive so be ready to complete it when you start or complete sections at a time.
As for the underfloor heating. Easy but tricky subject.

Reactions: Like 5


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## Resistance

Christos said:


> I need to learn how to tile and plaster.
> Both skills I’ve never needed to learn before!


I can plaster and scheme. don't like it too much. I never liked being wet and dirty at the same time.

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 1


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## Resistance

Christos said:


> I need to learn how to tile and plaster.
> Both skills I’ve never needed to learn before!


I think we need to assemble an Ecigssa maintenance team

Reactions: Winner 6


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## Resistance

@The vaper your paint project is welcome here

Reactions: Like 2


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## Stew

Christos said:


> Yup, it’s safe and very strong actually, so will use it for about 2 years or when I have project cash flow again as I’m wanting to redo all my plumbing and this may be a 2 year project because I also have to replace galvanized pipes in walls and once the walls are “open” I’m going to redo the bathrooms.
> 
> been looking at baths and mixers and they sure aren’t cheap!
> 
> I’m thinking of redoing the line from the municipal entry and rerouting all pipes above ground for leak purposes in future as well as making taps more accessible around the house as I only have 2 external taps on the same side of the house.
> 
> same goes with plug points. I only have 1 plugpoint per room but this project is tied with my solar aspirations as I want to run underfloor heating that is powered exclusively by solar with no battery backup.


My original galvanized pipe from meter to house was replaced. Where it entered the property it was about 1.5 metres deep tapering down to 18 inches at the house. They replaced it with polyprop only 18 inches deep. In summer if you want cold water you have to run enough to flush the whole pipe. If you run it above ground the polyprop that is UV resistant is more expensive. If you get pneumatic hammering there is nothing to support the pipe in the way of ground pressure. I had one 1/2 inch pipe balloon to almost 3/4 inch along the whole length before it burst due to my irritation hammering the pipe.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thanks 1 | Informative 4


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## Christos

Resistance said:


> I could give you some tips on bathrooms.
> As for plumbing. It's expensive so be ready to complete it when you start or complete sections at a time.
> As for the underfloor heating. Easy but tricky subject.


Last time I started with just paint the bathroom I ended up spending over R15 000. Most of the work was ceiling pipes, new light with extractor fan and I decided to run new cabling because the light is basically 2000w and I didn’t trust the 50 year old wiring

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 5 | Can relate 1


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## Christos

Stew said:


> My original galvanized pipe from meter to house was replaced. Where it entered the property it was about 1.5 metres deep tapering down to 18 inches at the house. They replaced it with polyprop only 18 inches deep. In summer if you want cold water you have to run enough to flush the whole pipe. If you run it above ground the polyprop that is UV resistant is more expensive. If you get pneumatic hammering there is nothing to support the pipe in the way of ground pressure. I had one 1/2 inch pipe balloon to almost 3/4 inch along the whole length before it burst due to my irritation hammering the pipe.


I’m still in the research phase. 
I have replaced all pipes I could see with copper as I kept having burst after burst. The latest burst was about 5cm above the wall so that caused a lot of damage and also a headache to fix. It’s sorted now but I have lost hot pressure in the furthest bathroom and I have replaced all my valves and done my geyser maintenance but still no luck. I have purposely left the galvanized in the walls because I’m scared to tackle it as both my bathrooms look like they share plumbing so it’s not a 1 bathroom at a time fix but both at the same time.

Reactions: Like 7


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## ARYANTO

NecroticAngel said:


> Was too burnt to sand down. (the top) so embraced the knobbly bits and decided to paint it. No detail yet but I have the basic outline so far. Sides will be a compass all the way round with chains and feathers running down the legs
> View attachment 203757
> View attachment 203758
> View attachment 203759
> View attachment 203760


Love the Steampunk look .

Reactions: Like 5 | Agree 2


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## blujeenz

Finally finished my PWM denim box mod.
Pretty much everything except for the electronics was recycled, the black screws came out of a PS3 dvd drive and the denim came from an old pair of jeans.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 15


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## Dela Rey Steyn

blujeenz said:


> Finally finished my PWM denim box mod.
> Pretty much everything except for the electronics was recycled, the black screws came out of a PS3 dvd drive and the denim came from an old pair of jeans.
> View attachment 204038


Looks awesome @blujeenz ! Did you build a PWM circuit from scratch?

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## Stew

@blujeenz 
Very nice.

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## blujeenz

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Looks awesome @blujeenz ! Did you build a PWM circuit from scratch?


Yep, 1st version was spaghetti wiring and then discovered vero board would fit.
Its basically a mosfet and NE55 timer.
Diagrams came from the modmakers uk website.



First version.

Reactions: Like 6 | Winner 6


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## Christos

blujeenz said:


> Finally finished my PWM denim box mod.
> Pretty much everything except for the electronics was recycled, the black screws came out of a PS3 dvd drive and the denim came from an old pair of jeans.
> View attachment 204038


Finally living up to your ECIGSSA forum name! Best to change your profile pic while you are at it

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## NecroticAngel

blujeenz said:


> Finally finished my PWM denim box mod.
> Pretty much everything except for the electronics was recycled, the black screws came out of a PS3 dvd drive and the denim came from an old pair of jeans.
> View attachment 204038


Wow!!! You're amazing!

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## NecroticAngel

everyone else has one  so making one for me too!

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 9


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## Stew

NecroticAngel said:


> View attachment 204208
> everyone else has one  so making one for me too!


Nice. Well done.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## NecroticAngel

Thanks @Stew wip

Reactions: Like 5


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## SAVaper

NecroticAngel said:


> View attachment 204208
> everyone else has one  so making one for me too!



Nice. I like the look

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 3


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## Stew

NecroticAngel said:


> Thanks @Stew wip


LOL. Wipe it please. Want it pal? Work in progress. Took a few minutes. LOL.

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## NecroticAngel

Hahaha work in progress  going to glue down the last bits and add in a smidge of bronze when I get a chance today

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## NecroticAngel

Made a start on the doll house but I've run out of those little pin nails

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## Christos

NecroticAngel said:


> Made a start on the doll house but I've run out of those little pin nails


I hope this is in anticipation of all the mods you are getting

Reactions: Like 5 | Funny 2


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## NecroticAngel

Christos said:


> I hope this is in anticipation of all the mods you are getting


Hehhe how cute would that be! Nah little Hera wants one and I had some stuff laying around to make her one

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 9


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finally finished my PWM denim box mod.
> Pretty much everything except for the electronics was recycled, the black screws came out of a PS3 dvd drive and the denim came from an old pair of jeans.
> View attachment 204038


Good stuff!
The pwm, is it a chip or did you build it yourself?
Edit... Page loaded slow so I didn't see the internals

Reactions: Like 3


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## Resistance

@Christos this geyser system made me think of your underfloor heating project. 
Maybe an idea you could use.


It runs on solar only

Reactions: Like 4 | Informative 2


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Yep, 1st version was spaghetti wiring and then discovered vero board would fit.
> Its basically a mosfet and NE55 timer.
> Diagrams came from the modmakers uk website.
> View attachment 204047
> 
> 
> First version.
> View attachment 204048


I get in touch when I rework this project. It worked but not as good as I wanted it too.
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/pwm.t61778/#post-800670

Reactions: Like 2


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## Christos

Resistance said:


> @Christos this geyser system made me think of your underfloor heating project.
> Maybe an idea you could use.
> View attachment 204375
> 
> It runs on solar only


In Europe the under floor pipes is used, and I do like it, my concern is taking out the amount of concrete to bury the pipes deep enough. Also not a popular practice here.

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## Resistance

Christos said:


> In Europe the under floor pipes is used, and I do like it, my concern is taking out the amount of concrete to bury the pipes deep enough. Also not a popular practice here.


Yes,geo-thermal is also not really done here either, but what they do with the water heating system is open the floor in the center like the mat (element) system they just go slightly deeper(8-10mm). The problem is either way the floor need to get opened and what counts is the long term savings.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> I get in touch when I rework this project. It worked but not as good as I wanted it too.
> https://www.ecigssa.co.za/pwm.t61778/#post-800670


Mine worked well enough till I put on my Profile 1.5 with a .16 SS mesh build and popped the mosfet(IRFZ44).
Actually popped is a misnomer, the drain and source legs shorted out, auto firing the atty.
Waiting for monday again for a irlb3034 from mantech.

Reactions: Like 5


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Mine worked well enough till I put on my Profile 1.5 with a .16 SS mesh build and popped the mosfet(IRFZ44).
> Actually popped is a misnomer, the drain and source legs shorted out, auto firing the atty.
> Waiting for monday again for a irlb3034 from mantech.


 Those are rated higher.
I used one in the pipe I made and the other I glued onto the heat sink of that failed project.

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## Resistance

My current weekend project is getting there.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 5


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## Stew

Resistance said:


> My current weekend project is getting there.
> View attachment 204489
> View attachment 204491


Nice. Well done.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

Stew said:


> Nice. Well done.


Thanks Mnr.

Reactions: Like 6


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## AKS

Decided to give my hard working DB v3 some TLC. It was starting to look quite sad...chipped and scratched from daily use.


















It still has some very deep chips from falling off ladders,out of pocket etc,but I like those.(testament to its robustness)

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 13


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## Grand Guru

AKS said:


> Decided to give my hard working DB v3 some TLC. It was starting to look quite sad...chipped and scratched from daily use.
> View attachment 204924
> 
> 
> View attachment 204925
> 
> 
> View attachment 204926
> 
> 
> View attachment 204927
> 
> 
> View attachment 204928
> 
> 
> View attachment 204929
> 
> 
> It still has some very deep chips from falling off ladders,out of pocket etc,but I like those.(testament to its robustness)


Great job @AKS. Impressive results!

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## Resistance

AKS said:


> Decided to give my hard working DB v3 some TLC. It was starting to look quite sad...chipped and scratched from daily use.
> View attachment 204924
> 
> 
> View attachment 204925
> 
> 
> View attachment 204926
> 
> 
> View attachment 204927
> 
> 
> View attachment 204928
> 
> 
> View attachment 204929
> 
> 
> It still has some very deep chips from falling off ladders,out of pocket etc,but I like those.(testament to its robustness)


I want one,
Awesome job!

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## NecroticAngel

Some more work getting done on the dollhouse

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 14


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## blujeenz

NecroticAngel said:


> Some more work getting done on the dollhouse
> View attachment 205076



Nice, some fine sewing skills needed there.
Its going to be a real fancy doll house with its own Free Mason lodge, judging by the black and white checker board floor in the last pic.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Funny 8


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## Alex



Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 5


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## Rob Fisher

Alex said:


>




OMG THat is so damn kewl! 

Now we need a carpenter to make one for us and include 26650's, 21700's and 18650's!

Reactions: Like 5 | Agree 4 | Winner 1


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## NecroticAngel

10 minute planter box. My daughter's old mini swimming pool that was full of holes made perfect lining for it

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## Dela Rey Steyn

It's not pretty, but it just needs to be practical and will only be used for another week or so, and then again when we do her other hip. A holding crate / sloped wall bed (she likes sleeping sitting up) to minimize Freya's movement.
Still need to sand some of the edges.




She can't wait to sleep on her bed in our room again, but we need to be strict to aid the recovery process.

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## NecroticAngel

Master bedroom bed done just have to snip off a thread here and there

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 8


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## Resistance

NecroticAngel said:


> Some more work getting done on the dollhouse
> View attachment 205071
> View attachment 205072
> View attachment 205073
> View attachment 205074
> View attachment 205075
> View attachment 205076


Looks good!

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 1


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## Resistance

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> It's not pretty, but it just needs to be practical and will only be used for another week or so, and then again when we do her other hip. A holding crate / sloped wall bed (she likes sleeping sitting up) to minimize Freya's movement.
> Still need to sand some of the edges.
> View attachment 205109
> View attachment 205110
> View attachment 205111
> 
> She can't wait to sleep on her bed in our room again, but we need to be strict to aid the recovery process.


Looks good bro!

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## Resistance

were getting there. About 90% complete.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 8


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## Stew

Resistance said:


> View attachment 205139
> View attachment 205140
> were getting there. About 90% complete.


Looking really good.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

Stew said:


> Looking really good.



Thanks brother.

Reactions: Like 7


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## Raindance

Playtime!

Regards

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 4


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## blujeenz

Built a bigger cnc machine for a laser 2 years ago, it gets good use cutting vinyl stencils for T shirts.
I had a neat idea for a Tshirt, designed the text and graphics, cut the vinyl and tomorrow is the hunt for a suitable T.
Then its airbrushing the stencil with Dala suncolor ink... bazinga.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 11


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## LeislB

I'm busy making separators for the drawers for my DIY concentrates. Will be so nice to be properly organized!



Will go in here:


And be a vast improvement to this:

Reactions: Like 7 | Winner 6


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## Dela Rey Steyn

LeislB said:


> I'm busy making separators for the drawers for my DIY concentrates. Will be so nice to be properly organized!
> View attachment 206508
> 
> 
> Will go in here:
> View attachment 206509
> 
> And be a vast improvement to this:
> View attachment 206510



Looking good! Just remember to keep your concentrates out of direct sunlight and heat.

Reactions: Like 7 | Agree 3


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## Christos

LeislB said:


> I'm busy making separators for the drawers for my DIY concentrates. Will be so nice to be properly organized!
> View attachment 206508
> 
> 
> Will go in here:
> View attachment 206509
> 
> And be a vast improvement to this:
> View attachment 206510


Dunno if you saw my battery holder project but you could increase the spacing for concentrate bottles...

Reactions: Like 7 | Winner 2


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## LeislB

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Looking good! Just remember to keep your concentrates out of direct sunlight and heat.


Ja, it's just there till I find a good place for it.

Reactions: Like 7 | Funny 1


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## LeislB

Christos said:


> Dunno if you saw my battery holder project but you could increase the spacing for concentrate bottles...


I don't think I did, where can I find it? I've been using cutting tools and glue, damn lucky I still have all my fingers, I'm not a DIY expert by any stretch of the imagination. That's my better half's job.

Reactions: Like 5 | Funny 2


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## LeislB

And I did it while consuming wine! Even more of a miracle if you take that into consideration!

Reactions: Winner 1 | Funny 8


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## Christos

LeislB said:


> I don't think I did, where can I find it? I've been using cutting tools and glue, damn lucky I still have all my fingers, I'm not a DIY expert by any stretch of the imagination. That's my better half's job.


https://www.ecigssa.co.za/how-do-you-store-your-batteries-on-your-desk.t48587/page-2#post-658865
go look towards the bottom where I used cardboard and a craft knife.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 3


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## NecroticAngel

My most used concentrate shelf with blackout curtain

Reactions: Like 9 | Winner 6


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## Stew

NecroticAngel said:


> My most used concentrate shelf with blackout curtain
> View attachment 206520


Nice Stash.

Reactions: Like 6 | Agree 1


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## Resistance

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Looking good! Just remember to keep your concentrates out of direct sunlight and heat.


Agree
With you on this one. Maybe needs a good coat of sunblock

Reactions: Funny 6


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## Resistance

LeislB said:


> I'm busy making separators for the drawers for my DIY concentrates. Will be so nice to be properly organized!
> View attachment 206508
> 
> 
> Will go in here:
> View attachment 206509
> 
> And be a vast improvement to this:
> View attachment 206510





NecroticAngel said:


> My most used concentrate shelf with blackout curtain
> View attachment 206520


Awesome!

Reactions: Like 3


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## Resistance

I'm also getting somewhere. Not where I want to be ,but all obstacles have been beaten. Now just fitting and finishing

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 11


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## Resistance

I fitted these this morning after waiting for stock for a while.
Then the basin and mixer.
And also had issues with the WC stopcork. Lucky there was a spare from the shower that I could rework.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 8


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## blujeenz

Saturdays finished job sun drying and then a heat set with an iron.



Sundays job was a service on an old Sony TC630 reel 2 reel (made from 1968 -71), drive belt needs replacing which is Mondays task, the rest was just oiling idler pulleys and cleaning off old caked dried out grease and replacing with some white lithium grease in a can.

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## Room Fogger

Phase 1 - Desk made of pine that I had standing around, installed and covered in some vinyl. Now I have a proper space to sit and work and build and mix.


Phase 2 - Shelving for printer and files next weekend, including varnish and final trim.
Phase 3 - Additional lighting and chair once funds can be allocated for this later in the year.

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 11


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## Raindance

Pretty impressed with this pocket rocket Raspberry Pi setup as a media centre. The laptop was getting old. No more Windows! Yipeeee!



Regards

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 13


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## Resistance

T


blujeenz said:


> Saturdays finished job sun drying and then a heat set with an iron.
> View attachment 206577
> 
> 
> Sundays job was a service on an old Sony TC630 reel 2 reel (made from 1968 -71), drive belt needs replacing which is Mondays task, the rest was just oiling idler pulleys and cleaning off old caked dried out grease and replacing with some white lithium grease in a can.
> View attachment 206579


This is one awesome project.
I wish I had one of those.

Reactions: Like 5 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

99% complete. Today the issue was the shower door. Now I have to wait for a new one.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 12


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## Resistance

Room Fogger said:


> Phase 1 - Desk made of pine that I had standing around, installed and covered in some vinyl. Now I have a proper space to sit and work and build and mix.
> View attachment 206581
> 
> Phase 2 - Shelving for printer and files next weekend, including varnish and final trim.
> Phase 3 - Additional lighting and chair once funds can be allocated for this later in the year.


Nice job bro.

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## Resistance

This looks interesting.


Raindance said:


> Pretty impressed with this pocket rocket Raspberry Pi setup as a media centre. The laptop was getting old. No more Windows! Yipeeee!
> View attachment 206591
> 
> 
> Regards

Reactions: Like 4


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## LeislB

I think I'll need another whole drawer system for my dessert flavours!

Reactions: Like 9 | Winner 3


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## Stew

LeislB said:


> I think I'll need another whole drawer system for my dessert flavours!
> View attachment 206618


The dividers look very well done.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 5


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## Stew

Resistance said:


> View attachment 206614
> View attachment 206615
> View attachment 206617
> 
> 99% complete. Today the issue was the shower door. Now I have to wait for a new one.


Really nice job.

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## Resistance

Stew said:


> Really nice job.


Thanks a million.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 6


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## SmokeyJoe

Resistance said:


> View attachment 206614
> View attachment 206615
> View attachment 206617
> 
> 99% complete. Today the issue was the shower door. Now I have to wait for a new one.




Dont forget this:

Reactions: Winner 3 | Funny 13


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## Stranger

Resistance said:


> View attachment 206614
> View attachment 206615
> View attachment 206617
> 
> 99% complete. Today the issue was the shower door. Now I have to wait for a new one.



You should be right proud of that.

Reactions: Agree 8 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

Anyone know where to source a 2pin flat spade style American kettle cord?
I dont really want to dremel the housing to fit a standard SA style kettle cord socket.

Reactions: Like 4


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## Stew

blujeenz said:


> Anyone know where to source a 2pin flat spade style American kettle cord?
> I dont really want to dremel the housing to fit a standard SA style kettle cord socket.
> View attachment 206695


Female USA Plug Cord Two pin flat South Africa
If Philtron and Communica haven't got you may have to order one.
http://www.philtron.co.za/Catalog/Details/P4247704991

Reactions: Like 3 | Thanks 1 | Informative 1


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## blujeenz

Stew said:


> Female USA Plug Cord Two pin flat South Africa
> If Philtron and Communica haven't got you may have to order one.
> http://www.philtron.co.za/Catalog/Details/P4247704991



Thanks Stew, it was an order item and I didnt relish paying R200 plus for a fancy kettle cord.
This is what I was looking for.



I eventually bit the bullet and did a SA cord conversion with a push in style socket from an old Xerox printer psu.

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 5


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## Stew

That look neat. Very nice.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

SmokeyJoe said:


> Dont forget this:
> 
> View attachment 206688


Why are you eating eggs from the bowl???
Oh my,it's flowers

Reactions: Winner 1 | Funny 7


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Anyone know where to source a 2pin flat spade style American kettle cord?
> I dont really want to dremel the housing to fit a standard SA style kettle cord socket.
> View attachment 206695


I remember having a Chinese pc speaker set some time ago that had a socket like that. Check China town sable square.

Or you can just use two female terminals like this and insulate it over the terminals

Reactions: Like 5 | Informative 1


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Thanks Stew, it was an order item and I didnt relish paying R200 plus for a fancy kettle cord.
> This is what I was looking for.
> View attachment 206703
> 
> 
> I eventually bit the bullet and did a SA cord conversion with a push in style socket from an old Xerox printer psu.
> View attachment 206704


Ok, I came too late to the party. Awesome job though!

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Ok, I came too late to the party. Awesome job though!


Good ideas though.
I thought of heatshrink over those auto spade connectors, but its a bit dodgy for a permanent solution.

Reactions: Like 5


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Good ideas though.
> I thought of heatshrink over those auto spade connectors, but its a bit dodgy for a permanent solution.


If it's stationary it would be safe, but you had a good solution changing the socket.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## blujeenz

Chillin on a sunday morning with some 1974 blues on the reel to reel, probably King Curtis, Shazaam doesnt have a clue. 
I upgraded the vu meters with blue leds for the back light seeing as one of the 2v glass bulbs had popped.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 12


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## SmokeyJoe

blujeenz said:


> Chillin on a sunday morning with some 1974 blues on the reel to reel, probably King Curtis, Shazaam doesnt have a clue.
> I upgraded the vu meters with blue leds for the back light seeing as one of the 2v glass bulbs had popped.
> View attachment 207307


Thats just brilliant! Havent seen a reel 2 reel in years

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 4 | Winner 1 | Thanks 1


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## king-ding-n-ling

Saw a pic on Pintrrest and decided to give it a try with my own twist... Heres my Jagercan

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 15


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## Stew

@king-ding-n-ling Very Nice. A lot of Juice there.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4 | Funny 3


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## Dela Rey Steyn

For our Handy-members....

Reactions: Funny 14


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## Resistance

king-ding-n-ling said:


> View attachment 207546
> View attachment 207545
> View attachment 207538
> View attachment 207537
> View attachment 207536
> 
> 
> Saw a pic on Pintrrest and decided to give it a try with my own twist... Heres my Jagercan


Nicely done!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 7


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## THE REAPER

king-ding-n-ling said:


> View attachment 207546
> View attachment 207545
> View attachment 207538
> View attachment 207537
> View attachment 207536
> 
> 
> Saw a pic on Pintrrest and decided to give it a try with my own twist... Heres my Jagercan


This looks awesome atleast if you go without fuel you will have something better to do lol.

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 6


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## AKS

Okay started this weekend,finished today....so technically a weekend project.

Wasn’t liking the splatter paint on my Argus gt,so decided to strip it....





Then didn’t like the bare metal with the grey padded area,so covered it in brushed black leather.(Got it from a little stash of leather offcuts my grandfather boxed and oiled in 1948,so now its officially an heirloom.)

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 11


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## Stew

AKS said:


> Okay started this weekend,finished today....so technically a weekend project.
> 
> Wasn’t liking the splatter paint on my Argus gt,so decided to strip it....
> 
> View attachment 208466
> View attachment 208467
> 
> 
> Then didn’t like the bare metal with the grey padded area,so covered it in brushed black leather.(Got it from a little stash of leather offcuts my grandfather boxed and oiled in 1948,so now its officially an heirloom.)


Very nice and now some sentimental memories. Tremendous.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 4 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

AKS said:


> Okay started this weekend,finished today....so technically a weekend project.
> 
> Wasn’t liking the splatter paint on my Argus gt,so decided to strip it....
> 
> View attachment 208466
> View attachment 208467
> 
> 
> Then didn’t like the bare metal with the grey padded area,so covered it in brushed black leather.(Got it from a little stash of leather offcuts my grandfather boxed and oiled in 1948,so now its officially an heirloom.)



Nice modding brother. Don't worry too much about the weekend thing. This is a project thread.
Ps. The mod looks Awesome!

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 3 | Thanks 1


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## SmokeyJoe

AKS said:


> Okay started this weekend,finished today....so technically a weekend project.
> 
> Wasn’t liking the splatter paint on my Argus gt,so decided to strip it....
> 
> View attachment 208466
> View attachment 208467
> 
> 
> Then didn’t like the bare metal with the grey padded area,so covered it in brushed black leather.(Got it from a little stash of leather offcuts my grandfather boxed and oiled in 1948,so now its officially an heirloom.)


How did you fit the leather?

Reactions: Like 4


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## AKS

SmokeyJoe said:


> How did you fit the leather?


The plastic border around the padded part unscrews,then just templated the black leather on the existing cover.
I fit the black over the existing grey leather/pleather,so its still there. The plastic border holds it in place nicely.
Has to be thin leather. Had to shave edges of new leather with bench grinder in order for the plastic piece to fit perfectly.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 5 | Useful 1


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## AKS

Come to think of it,one could use a number of different vinyls,leather or whatever and swop around as you like,provided it is thin enough.
Original stays intact.....

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 5


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## SmokeyJoe

Its an awesome job man. It looks bloody amazing. And thanks for the detailed answer, really appreciate it.

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 1 | Winner 2


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## AKS

SmokeyJoe said:


> Its an awesome job man. It looks bloody amazing. And thanks for the detailed answer, really appreciate it.


No worries,have a great night all.

Reactions: Winner 7


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## blujeenz

Yet another weekend project that only got completed on Monday, once Mantech had opened up.
its a Bitcoin price tracker using ESP8266 NodeMCU, 0.96" OLED display and 18650 boost and charge modules from Mantech.
The NodeMCU and OLED were from Communica.
Basic shapes designed in Tinkercad so that's why it looks like ouma se huisie. 



I found a more informative Bitcoin only program, but my coding Fu is weak and I couldnt get it to display Rands.



Needless to say I'd like a XRP ticker, but the needed API is somewhat scarce and so far the one I did find hasnt been been a copy/paste, plug and play.

Next on the list is a powerbank.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 11


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## AKS

blujeenz said:


> Yet another weekend project that only got completed on Monday, once Mantech had opened up.
> its a Bitcoin price tracker using ESP8266 NodeMCU, 0.96" OLED display and 18650 boost and charge modules from Mantech.
> The NodeMCU and OLED were from Communica.
> Basic shapes designed in Tinkercad so that's why it looks like ouma se huisie.
> View attachment 209002
> 
> 
> I found a more informative Bitcoin only program, but my coding Fu is weak and I couldnt get it to display Rands.
> View attachment 209004
> 
> 
> Needless to say I'd like a XRP ticker, but the needed API is somewhat scarce and so far the one I did find hasnt been been a copy/paste, plug and play.
> 
> Next on the list is a powerbank.


Wow!
I think I only know the word “ouma” in your entire post.
Impressive project!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Winner 1 | Funny 4 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

AKS said:


> Wow!
> I think I only know the word “ouma” in your entire post.
> Impressive project!


Impressive yes. Innovative yes. Awesome 


blujeenz said:


> Yet another weekend project that only got completed on Monday, once Mantech had opened up.
> its a Bitcoin price tracker using ESP8266 NodeMCU, 0.96" OLED display and 18650 boost and charge modules from Mantech.
> The NodeMCU and OLED were from Communica.
> Basic shapes designed in Tinkercad so that's why it looks like ouma se huisie.
> View attachment 209002
> 
> 
> I found a more informative Bitcoin only program, but my coding Fu is weak and I couldnt get it to display Rands.
> View attachment 209004
> 
> 
> Needless to say I'd like a XRP ticker, but the needed API is somewhat scarce and so far the one I did find hasnt been been a copy/paste, plug and play.
> 
> Next on the list is a powerbank.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

Another completed project. 
Never had a powerbank nor ever had a need for one, but I've had 5 LG DB2's from a recovered laptop battery pack that have held on 4.12V for a year.
So they're good and figured they would work well in a powerbank.
The only thing I needed to buy was the charge/boost module from Lantis Electronics at R60, bargin price for a 13000 mAh powerbank.
https://www.lantis.co.za/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2720&search=power+bank
The insides before gluing closed.



Charging a Drag Nano and Topside lite.
The orange dot under the blue capacity light string is a button for the light, made from a piece of weed eater nylon.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 15


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Another completed project.
> Never had a powerbank nor ever had a need for one, but I've had 5 LG DB2's from a recovered laptop battery pack that have held on 4.12V for a year.
> So they're good and figured they would work well in a powerbank.
> The only thing I needed to buy was the charge/boost module from Lantis Electronics at R60, bargin price for a 13000 mAh powerbank.
> https://www.lantis.co.za/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2720&search=power+bank
> The insides before gluing closed.
> View attachment 209392
> 
> 
> Charging a Drag Nano and Topside lite.
> The orange dot under the blue capacity light string is a button for the light, made from a piece of weed eater nylon.
> View attachment 209391



If there ever was a person that I would urge to make you tube videos, it would be you.
Your projects are top notch!

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 7 | Winner 1 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> If there ever was a person that I would urge to make you tube videos, it would be you.
> Your projects are top notch!


Thanks for the vote. 
I'm more of an Instructables.com kind of person, been there since 2006.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 9


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Thanks for the vote.
> I'm more of an Instructables.com kind of person, been there since 2006.



I used to frequent Instructables alot.
I need to go check it out again.

Reactions: Like 2 | Can relate 3


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> I used to frequent Instructables alot.
> I need to go check it out again.


If you want to download pdf's you'll need a Pro membership, give me a shout, I've still got some left over from last year when I was dishing them out.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 5 | Thanks 1 | Informative 1


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## Resistance

Last night I started an attempt to repair a light bulb.


Then my soldering iron broke on me.
So now I have to fix the soldering iron or get a new one.
The light works with the replacement LEDs so that's a plus it's just not soldered yet.

Reactions: Like 6 | Winner 5


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## Grand Guru

Resistance said:


> Last night I started an attempt to repair a light bulb.
> View attachment 209591
> 
> Then my soldering iron broke on me.
> So now I have to fix the soldering iron or get a new one.
> The light works with the replacement LEDs so that's a plus it's just not soldered yet.


You my friend have a lot of patience

Reactions: Agree 6 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

Grand Guru said:


> You my friend have a lot of patience


Thanks.
They say practice make patience.

I bought a new globe ,but I'm still going to get this project done.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 6


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## blujeenz

Finally after coding most of the weekend including well after midnite on Saturday, I have my crypto ticker that I wanted in the beginning.
Needless to say I have new found respect for what programmers/coders do.

This was version 1, after finding out how to GET HTTPS url payloads on a device that commonly does normal urls.



This was after another 2 hrs learning how to parse JSON payloads and adding in custom bitmap logo's.




Bazinga.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 8


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## AKS

Built a treehouse/playhouse for the boys a while back,thought it still needed a finishing touch.
So was thinking,what would I have wanted on my treehouse when I was a little boy........







Needless to say the veto was swift.Something about pc concerns.
Alas,it will be relegated to the workshop......

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 16 | Informative 1


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finally after coding most of the weekend including well after midnite on Saturday, I have my crypto ticker that I wanted in the beginning.
> Needless to say I have new found respect for what programmers/coders do.
> 
> This was version 1, after finding out how to GET HTTPS url payloads on a device that commonly does normal urls.
> View attachment 209746
> 
> 
> This was after another 2 hrs learning how to parse JSON payloads and adding in custom bitmap logo's.
> 
> View attachment 209747
> 
> 
> Bazinga.





AKS said:


> Built a treehouse/playhouse for the boys a while back,thought it still needed a finishing touch.
> So was thinking,what would I have wanted on my treehouse when I was a little boy........
> 
> View attachment 209960
> View attachment 209961
> View attachment 209962
> View attachment 209963
> 
> 
> Needless to say the veto was swift.Something about pc concerns.
> Alas,it will be relegated to the workshop......



Both Awesome!

Reactions: Agree 5 | Thanks 2


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## blujeenz

AKS said:


> Built a treehouse/playhouse for the boys a while back,thought it still needed a finishing touch.
> So was thinking,what would I have wanted on my treehouse when I was a little boy........
> 
> View attachment 209960
> View attachment 209961
> View attachment 209962
> View attachment 209963
> 
> 
> Needless to say the veto was swift.Something about pc concerns.
> Alas,it will be relegated to the workshop......


Now that brought back memories from 1981, bouncing behind the old 50 Browning.
Well crafted idea, I especially liked the thumb trigger, although I thought you were a bit stingy with the ammo box.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1 | Winner 6


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## blujeenz

Here's a preview of what I've been busy with this week.
Saw Louis' Youtube homogenizer video and scratched around on the vapingunderground site.
Saw what was done and decided to do a remix.
Heres my version, yes that's a rda cap, a R80 Patriot clone from 2016.
The Dremel nose cap I designed in Tinkercad and combined a Dremel nut from a user on Thingiverse.
The SS tube is DOM 12mm dia, drawn over mandrel, so thats why it looks like galvanised tubing.


An overview of the contraption.


Still thinking about the rotor part, I want a Tesla Turbine style, it might just turn out to be a fancy water pump so I'll probably prototype it in delrin.

Before anybody asks, I have no plans to make more and I licked it so its mine.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 9 | Funny 2


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## SmokeyJoe

blujeenz said:


> Here's a preview of what I've been busy with this week.
> Saw Louis' Youtube homogenizer video and scratched around on the vapingunderground site.
> Saw what was done and decided to do a remix.
> Heres my version, yes that's a rda cap, a R80 Patriot clone from 2016.
> The Dremel nose cap I designed in Tinkercad and combined a Dremel nut from a user on Thingiverse.
> The SS tube is DOM 12mm dia, drawn over mandrel, so thats why it looks like galvanised tubing.
> View attachment 210219
> 
> An overview of the contraption.
> View attachment 210220
> 
> Still thinking about the rotor part, I want a Tesla Turbine style, it might just turn out to be a fancy water pump so I'll probably prototype it in delrin.
> 
> Before anybody asks, I have no plans to make more and I licked it so its mine.


what in the tarnation are you trying to make?

Reactions: Winner 1 | Funny 7


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## Resistance

SmokeyJoe said:


> what in the tarnation are you trying to make?



It's made already. A juice wand

Reactions: Like 4 | Funny 1


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## blujeenz

SmokeyJoe said:


> what in the tarnation are you trying to make?



homogenizer
https://vapingunderground.com/threa...mogenizer-diy-flavor-chaser-one-shots.544726/

@KZOR did a review on the south african version by Nico Lubbe

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 5


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Here's a preview of what I've been busy with this week.
> Saw Louis' Youtube homogenizer video and scratched around on the vapingunderground site.
> Saw what was done and decided to do a remix.
> Heres my version, yes that's a rda cap, a R80 Patriot clone from 2016.
> The Dremel nose cap I designed in Tinkercad and combined a Dremel nut from a user on Thingiverse.
> The SS tube is DOM 12mm dia, drawn over mandrel, so thats why it looks like galvanised tubing.
> View attachment 210219
> 
> An overview of the contraption.
> View attachment 210220
> 
> Still thinking about the rotor part, I want a Tesla Turbine style, it might just turn out to be a fancy water pump so I'll probably prototype it in delrin.
> 
> Before anybody asks, I have no plans to make more and I licked it so its mine.


If it works and you like it. Awesome!
Cool project @blujeenz

Reactions: Agree 4 | Winner 1 | Thanks 1


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## AKS

Decided to go from black brushed to brown smooth leather on the Argus.

Before




Be-after




I think I prefer brown....
Have a great weekend, fine people.

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 10


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## Resistance

AKS said:


> Decided to go from black brushed to brown smooth leather on the Argus.
> 
> Before
> View attachment 210350
> View attachment 210351
> 
> 
> Be-after
> View attachment 210352
> View attachment 210353
> 
> 
> I think I prefer brown....
> Have a great weekend, fine people.


Awesome. I think you should try a few more colours and textures before deciding on a finish.(that's if you decide to stick to one finish)
Looks good in brown I agree, bit the black suede wasn't bad either.

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 2 | Thanks 1


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## Puff the Magic Dragon

blujeenz said:


> Never had a powerbank nor ever had a need for one



My favorite use for my power banks if for load shedding. 

A year or so ago I bought several 2m and 3m 5V led strip lights. I struggled to find any locally so I bought them from Banggood. They cost next to nothing and have held up well. I have checked what I paid... R35 for the 2m and R40 for the 3m ones.

I just plug in the USB/s before the scheduled load shedding and they provide excellent light for well over the load shedding period.

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## Resistance

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> My favorite use for my power banks if for load shedding.
> 
> A year or so ago I bought several 2m and 3m 5V led strip lights. I struggled to find any locally so I bought them from Banggood. They cost next to nothing and have held up well. I have checked what I paid... R35 for the 2m and R40 for the 3m ones.
> 
> I just plug in the USB/s before the scheduled load shedding and they provide excellent light for well over the load shedding period.


Pics or it didn't happen!

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Puff the Magic Dragon

It would just be a pic of a led strip . Like this.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 8


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## Stew

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> It would just be a pic of a led strip . Like this.


My son's father in law has five of those lights from a cut up strip light in each room of his house all coupled to a battery in a cupboard that is charged often. They are on a switch. He turns then on during night power failures and apparently you can see throughout the house. Never seen them working.
Great idea.

Reactions: Like 5 | Agree 4


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## Resistance

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> It would just be a pic of a led strip . Like this.


That's an awesome idea. I have a short strip that I might for that with. I was actually holding off on that idea, but now I'm sold.

Reactions: Like 6 | Agree 1


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## SmokeyJoe

If you live near Roodepoort. At Hillfox where Metro cash and Carry was, about the 4th shop theres a oke that sell them for almost nothing

Editor's Note: This was 6 months ago. I cant confirm if the relevant Flea Shop Owner still trades in said LED light.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 4


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## Puff the Magic Dragon

Just make sure that they are 5V if you are using a power bank

Reactions: Like 5 | Informative 1 | Useful 1


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## blujeenz

After a weekend of redesigns and improvements I have arrived at Dremel homogenizer V2. Frankly a 200mm long 3mm dia shaft was ambitious to say the least.
I discovered a 3mm ID bearing is exactly that, but a M3 threaded rod varies from 2.5 to 2.85mm and that contributed to shaft whip even with another bearing in the middle.
The only way to get everything concentric was the lathe, my 3D printer isnt the most accurate producer of results.
I found the top hole introduced too much air and blocking it off increased the flow through the bottom one, which is what I wanted to lube the bottom bearing.



Tesla style head made from delrin.



No matter how long you stir oil and water on the mag plate, they dont mix.



Enter the Dremel and some serious mixing takes place, this after 2min and no separation after 2 hrs, just some layering. 



I found speed 4 on my Dremel worked the best and at 8 the output from the discharge holes was noticeably reduced.
Edit: this was for the oil water mix, ejuice is considerably thicker and loads the motor more, so I cut a disc off the 4 disc rotor which should help reduce the strain on the Dremel.

In closing, if you can afford Nico Lubbe's pro version that @KZOR demo'ed, go for it, its def's a game changer for mixing and if you can, maybe ask for a custom tesla turbine style head.

Reactions: Winner 11 | Informative 1


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> After a weekend of redesigns and improvements I have arrived at Dremel homogenizer V2. Frankly a 200mm long 3mm dia shaft was ambitious to say the least.
> I discovered a 3mm ID bearing is exactly that, but a M3 threaded rod varies from 2.5 to 2.85mm and that contributed to shaft whip even with another bearing in the middle.
> The only way to get everything concentric was the lathe, my 3D printer isnt the most accurate producer of results.
> I found the top hole introduced too much air and blocking it off increased the flow through the bottom one, which is what I wanted to lube the bottom bearing.
> View attachment 210795
> 
> 
> Tesla style head made from delrin.
> View attachment 210803
> 
> 
> No matter how long you stir oil and water on the mag plate, they dont mix.
> View attachment 210796
> 
> 
> Enter the Dremel and some serious mixing takes place, this after 2min and no separation after 2 hrs, just some layering.
> View attachment 210797
> 
> 
> I found speed 4 on my Dremel worked the best and at 8 the output from the discharge holes was noticeably reduced.
> Edit: this was for the oil water mix, ejuice is considerably thicker and loads the motor more, so I cut a disc off the 4 disc rotor which should help reduce the strain on the Dremel.
> 
> In closing, if you can afford Nico Lubbe's pro version that @KZOR demo'ed, go for it, its def's a game changer for mixing and if you can, maybe ask for a custom tesla turbine style head.



Nice upgrade's bro. Well probably be seeing V3 soon. Keep it up!

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## Raindance

At last got round to fixing the sagging paving behind the pool. Then ran out of cement. Next weekend, more of the same.





Sun fried me and mixing cement broke that which was not already painful from working on my knees. 

Regards

Reactions: Winner 14


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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> At last got round to fixing the sagging paving behind the pool. Then ran out of cement. Next weekend, more of the same.
> View attachment 211134
> View attachment 211135
> View attachment 211136
> View attachment 211137
> 
> Sun fried me and mixing cement broke that which was not already painful from working on my knees.
> 
> Regards



Nice the lekka days are coming.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 5 | Winner 2


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## Stew

Raindance said:


> At last got round to fixing the sagging paving behind the pool. Then ran out of cement. Next weekend, more of the same.
> Sun fried me and mixing cement broke that which was not already painful from working on my knees.
> 
> Regards


Big project. Luckily I have old age and a messed back as an excuse not to do big jobs like that anymore.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 2 | Funny 2


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## Christos

Not the weekend yet but this has been bothering me for a long time. My main pulsar was still working but the button had lost its click sound.

Original button.



After removing the original button and preparing the surface with solder paste.




Final pic with new button before cleaning the surface.


pleased to say the click is back and the button is working again

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 14


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## Stew

Christos said:


> Not the weekend yet but this has been bothering me for a long time. My main pulsar was still working but the button had lost its click sound.
> 
> Original button.
> View attachment 211296
> 
> 
> After removing the original button and preparing the surface with solder paste.
> View attachment 211297
> View attachment 211299
> 
> 
> Final pic with new button before cleaning the surface.
> View attachment 211298
> 
> pleased to say the click is back and the button is working again


Nice. I am not into electronics so take my hat off to you.

Reactions: Like 4 | Agree 3 | Winner 1 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

Christos said:


> Not the weekend yet but this has been bothering me for a long time. My main pulsar was still working but the button had lost its click sound.
> 
> Original button.
> View attachment 211296
> 
> 
> After removing the original button and preparing the surface with solder paste.
> View attachment 211297
> View attachment 211299
> 
> 
> Final pic with new button before cleaning the surface.
> View attachment 211298
> 
> pleased to say the click is back and the button is working again



Nice .the repair looks great. Did you use an iron or air ?

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## vicTor

Christos said:


> Not the weekend yet but this has been bothering me for a long time. My main pulsar was still working but the button had lost its click sound.
> 
> Original button.
> View attachment 211296
> 
> 
> After removing the original button and preparing the surface with solder paste.
> View attachment 211297
> View attachment 211299
> 
> 
> Final pic with new button before cleaning the surface.
> View attachment 211298
> 
> pleased to say the click is back and the button is working again



mad skills !!

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## Christos

Resistance said:


> Nice .the repair looks great. Did you use an iron or air ?


Iron. I wanted to get a rework station but the amount of soldering I do doesn’t warrant the cost!

Reactions: Like 9


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## Resistance

Christos said:


> Iron. I wanted to get a rework station but the amount of soldering I do doesn’t warrant the cost!


I'm in the same boat,but have to replace my iron soon and fit a reostat.

Reactions: Like 5


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## Christos

Resistance said:


> I'm in the same boat,but have to replace my iron soon and fit a reostat.


Look at the magnum range. I have one where I can change the tips and a small potentiometer to change the heat settings depending on the application required.

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## Dela Rey Steyn

Christos said:


> Look at the magnum range. I have one where I can change the tips and a small potentiometer to change the heat settings depending on the application required.



That's a lot of ching for a soldering iron! But then again, I solder very very very little. I have a 100w Topline jobby

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 1


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## Christos

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> That's a lot of ching for a soldering iron! But then again, I solder very very very little. I have a 100w Topline jobby


I need interchangeable tips depending on the size of the component etc. R500 is still better than R5000 and I really want a weller but let’s not talk about those prices!

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 5


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## Dela Rey Steyn

Christos said:


> I need interchangeable tips depending on the size of the component etc. R500 is still better than R5000 and I really want a weller but let’s not talk about those prices!



If you are using a tool often enough, one can always justify the costs. Currently looking at getting myself a R2k 3-chisel set for my woodwork hobby

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## Stew

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> If you are using a tool often enough, one can always justify the costs. Currently looking at getting myself a R2k 3-chisel set for my woodwork hobby


I can always justify the cost of tools. LOL.

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## Resistance

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> If you are using a tool often enough, one can always justify the costs. Currently looking at getting myself a R2k 3-chisel set for my woodwork hobby


Bro what do you want to do with the chisel set?

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Resistance

Stew said:


> I can always justify the cost of tools. LOL.


I was saving to buy a hammer. Every month I came to the shop with the cash, the price increased.
I eventually screwed that idea.

I needed a scarce weight of 28oz. Not a size needed alot.

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## Resistance

Resistance said:


> I was saving to buy a hammer. Every month I came to the shop with the cash, the price increased.
> I eventually screwed that idea.
> View attachment 211407
> I needed a scarce weight of 28oz. Not a size needed alot.


They can keep their hammer.

Reactions: Agree 3 | Funny 7


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## Christos

Resistance said:


> They can keep their hammer.


How many times have you used a spanner when in a pinch?

Reactions: Funny 8


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## Dela Rey Steyn

A


Christos said:


> How many times have you used a spanner when in a pinch?


Anything can be a hammer if you need it to be... And if you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem.

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## Resistance

Christos said:


> How many times have you used a spanner when in a pinch?


That's against my beliefs. I use a brick!

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## Gadgetboy

Resistance said:


> I was saving to buy a hammer. Every month I came to the shop with the cash, the price increased.
> I eventually screwed that idea.
> View attachment 211407
> I needed a scarce weight of 28oz. Not a size needed alot.



A tool is a mans best friend! My Grandfather used to be a tool and dye maker back in the day and that’s where I learned the phrase “ if you don’t have the right tool for the job, don’t do the job” 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Resistance

Gadgetboy said:


> A tool is a mans best friend! My Grandfather used to be a tool and dye maker back in the day and that’s where I learned the phrase “ if you don’t have the right tool for the job, don’t do the job”
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Indeed. R600 28oz hickory handle in the right hands is plenty good enough!

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## blujeenz

Homogenizer V3, as predicted by @Resistance and his crystal ball.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 12


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Homogenizer V3, as predicted by @Resistance and his crystal ball.
> 
> 
> View attachment 212207


A few more tweaks and we can go full swing production
Awesome build!

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## blujeenz

Just finished my latest mod, been busy with it these last 2 weeks.
I was generously given a pcb and batt sled from a Vaporesso Gen by Hein from Juicy Joe's.
The 510 was shorting so I hacked the 510 from an IPV6X and built a box out of epoxy laminated denim.
The buttons are PLA from a 3D printer, I wanted SS but the reduction gearbox on my lathe broke and turning SS at 820 rpm isnt the way its done.
Have to admit Im quite impressed with all the onboard functions as well as the pc software dashboard.

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## vicTor

blujeenz said:


> Just finished my latest mod, been busy with it these last 2 weeks.
> I was generously given a pcb and batt sled from a Vaporesso Gen by Hein from Juicy Joe's.
> The 510 was shorting so I hacked the 510 from an IPV6X and built a box out of epoxy laminated denim.
> The buttons are PLA from a 3D printer, I wanted SS but the reduction gearbox on my lathe broke and turning SS at 820 rpm isnt the way its done.
> Have to admit Im quite impressed with all the onboard functions as well as the pc software dashboard.
> 
> View attachment 214123



very well done Sir !

Reactions: Agree 10 | Thanks 1


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## AKS

blujeenz said:


> Just finished my latest mod, been busy with it these last 2 weeks.
> I was generously given a pcb and batt sled from a Vaporesso Gen by Hein from Juicy Joe's.
> The 510 was shorting so I hacked the 510 from an IPV6X and built a box out of epoxy laminated denim.
> The buttons are PLA from a 3D printer, I wanted SS but the reduction gearbox on my lathe broke and turning SS at 820 rpm isnt the way its done.
> Have to admit Im quite impressed with all the onboard functions as well as the pc software dashboard.
> 
> View attachment 214123


Excellent job!

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Just finished my latest mod, been busy with it these last 2 weeks.
> I was generously given a pcb and batt sled from a Vaporesso Gen by Hein from Juicy Joe's.
> The 510 was shorting so I hacked the 510 from an IPV6X and built a box out of epoxy laminated denim.
> The buttons are PLA from a 3D printer, I wanted SS but the reduction gearbox on my lathe broke and turning SS at 820 rpm isnt the way its done.
> Have to admit Im quite impressed with all the onboard functions as well as the pc software dashboard.
> 
> View attachment 214123


The buttons match the drip tip. Well done it's an awesome job and it will give you something to do next weekend , making new buttons.

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## Resistance

Something I just finished. It's still a little rough,

but who cares right now. It's rustic!

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## Resistance

An extended weekend project that never seemed to happen.



I'm trying to find a suitable blade position that will still deem it useful.

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## Stew

Resistance said:


> An extended weekend project that never seemed to happen.
> View attachment 214419
> View attachment 214420
> 
> I'm trying to find a suitable blade position that will still deem it useful.


Aesthetically the top one looks good. Not much good at judging practicality as I don't use knives fo much else other than cutting my thumb and biltong.

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## DarthBranMuffin

Resistance said:


> An extended weekend project that never seemed to happen.
> View attachment 214419
> View attachment 214420
> 
> I'm trying to find a suitable blade position that will still deem it useful.



Looks great. I am with @Stew , the higher position, but with slightly deeper notches for both thumb on top and forefinger on the bottom maybe for better grip when handling it either way and not letting your fingers slip onto the blade with forward thrusting.

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## Resistance

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Looks great. I am with @Stew , the higher position, but with slightly deeper notches for both thumb on top and forefinger on the bottom maybe for better grip when handling it either way and not letting your fingers slip onto the blade with forward thrusting.
> 
> View attachment 214421


This was what I originally went for. The scales are still oversized and once glued and pinned I'll sand it to fit in the hand.
I over thought it when I taped the scales in position.

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## blujeenz

Finished up some pattern molding boxes and a babington burner and wondered if there are any metal casters on the forum.
Looking for moulding sand and parting powder.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finished up some pattern molding boxes and a babington burner and wondered if there are any metal casters on the forum.
> Looking for moulding sand and parting powder.
> 
> View attachment 214424


 I haven't done that in a while. I have used lime. For both successfully, but then again I was just experimenting.. I didn't turn pro!

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finished up some pattern molding boxes and a babington burner and wondered if there are any metal casters on the forum.
> Looking for moulding sand and parting powder.
> 
> View attachment 214424


Paste a link if you have an Instructable on the build. Your setup looks professionally made. Awesome!

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Paste a link if you have an Instructable on the build. Your setup looks professionally made. Awesome!


Thanks.
no Instructable, figured there were enough bab burners around so didnt want to rehash it.
The boxes I built after watching olfoundryman on youtube.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finished up some pattern molding boxes and a babington burner and wondered if there are any metal casters on the forum.
> Looking for moulding sand and parting powder.
> 
> View attachment 214424


https://www.capewatch.co.za/product/delft-clay/
Read here talcum powder can be used.

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## Resistance

https://www.procor.co.za/foundry-powders/

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## zadiac

blujeenz said:


> Homogenizer V3, as predicted by @Resistance and his crystal ball.
> 
> 
> View attachment 212207



You definitely have my interest in this. I'm def a taker when it's available.

Reactions: Like 5


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## blujeenz

zadiac said:


> You definitely have my interest in this. I'm def a taker when it's available.


Thanks for the vote, alas the product is not at what I'd call a commercial level. 
To be frank the juice did improve after 3 days, but one does get a very good idea in the first day.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Thanks for the vote, alas the product is not at what I'd call a commercial level.
> To be frank the juice did improve after 3 days, but one does get a very good idea in the first day.


We need to start production soon. I think three day steep is over enough. Who's taking orders. I'll run the Q.A.

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## Resistance

Finished another project,but it needs tweaking birdie doesn't grip that we'll yet.

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## Stew

Resistance said:


> View attachment 215198
> View attachment 215199
> View attachment 215197
> 
> Finished another project,but it needs tweaking birdie doesn't grip that we'll yet.


Saw the first picture. Figured out it was sideways. Saw second picture. Thought what the heck is this. Saw third picture, LOL.

Reactions: Like 5


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## Stew

Resistance said:


> View attachment 215198
> View attachment 215199
> View attachment 215197
> 
> Finished another project,but it needs tweaking birdie doesn't grip that we'll yet.


What wood is that, Leopard Tree?

Reactions: Like 4


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## Resistance

Stew said:


> What wood is that, Leopard Tree?


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eucalyptus_camaldulensis

Reactions: Like 5


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## Resistance

Stew said:


> What wood is that, Leopard Tree?

Reactions: Like 4


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## Raindance

Resistance said:


> View attachment 215225


Need a few of those as wood chopping blocks at home. 


Regards

Reactions: Like 4


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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Need a few of those as wood chopping blocks at home.
> 
> 
> Regards


That was removed already. The site foreman took the rest. Sorry.

Reactions: Like 5


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## ARYANTO

Raindance said:


> Need a few of those as wood chopping blocks at home.
> 
> 
> Regards


Would have been nice chairs for a boma/braai area .

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 5


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## Stew

Knife sharpening desk check / weekend project.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 6


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## Resistance

ARYANTO said:


> Would have been nice chairs for a boma/braai area .


You know how it goes.monkey see monkey want everything.

Reactions: Funny 7


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## Grand Guru

Working on another build stand. Still in progress...

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## Stew

Grand Guru said:


> Working on another build stand. Still in progress...
> View attachment 215873
> View attachment 215874
> View attachment 215875


Is that a heatsink? Where did you buy it? I would like to get a few. Especially for my Swag II to put a bubble tank on.

Reactions: Like 4


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## Grand Guru

Stew said:


> Is that a heatsink? Where did you buy it? I would like to get a few. Especially for my Swag II to put a bubble tank on.


I bought a few from Wish.com maybe 2 years ago for a few cents.

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## Stew

Grand Guru said:


> I bought a few from Wish.com maybe 2 years ago for a few cents.


Thanks very much.

Reactions: Like 6


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## Resistance

Grand Guru said:


> Working on another build stand. Still in progress...
> View attachment 215873
> View attachment 215874
> View attachment 215875


What colour are you making it?

Reactions: Like 2


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## Grand Guru

Resistance said:


> What colour are you making it?


I was considering a dark wood stain or maybe black but I’m open to suggestions

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## Grand Guru

I opted to make the heat sink recessed. It gives it a much neater look. Different steps and end result. I'm quite satisfied!

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## Resistance

Grand Guru said:


> I opted to make the heat sink recessed. It gives it a much neater look. Different steps and end result. I'm quite satisfied!
> View attachment 215995
> View attachment 215996
> View attachment 215997
> View attachment 215999


Recessed looks good.
I came a bit late.
I'm was going to suggest very fine sanding, maybe 420 gritt in the drill and then spraypainting again with clear.
Only a suggestion.
It looks good as is.

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

I agree with @Resistance about a clear coat. It will protect the paint from juice spills and fingers.

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## Stew

Grand Guru said:


> I opted to make the heat sink recessed. It gives it a much neater look. Different steps and end result. I'm quite satisfied!
> View attachment 215995
> View attachment 215996
> View attachment 215997
> View attachment 215999


Lovely.

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## Stew

When you are on Pension Weekend Projects become anytime projects. Whipped up a couple of these to fit my atties that I just pick up now and again for a different flavour. Tried sticking a bit of rolled up tissue paper and if it touches te wick it soaks up the juice. I don't fancy cooking and inhaling googa's and dust.

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## Resistance

Stew said:


> When you are on Pension Weekend Projects become anytime projects. Whipped up a couple of these to fit my atties that I just pick up now and again for a different flavour. Tried sticking a bit of rolled up tissue paper and if it touches te wick it soaks up the juice. I don't fancy cooking and inhaling googa's and dust.
> View attachment 216192


Brilliant idea.

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## Resistance

Stew said:


> When you are on Pension Weekend Projects become anytime projects. Whipped up a couple of these to fit my atties that I just pick up now and again for a different flavour. Tried sticking a bit of rolled up tissue paper and if it touches te wick it soaks up the juice. I don't fancy cooking and inhaling googa's and dust.
> View attachment 216192


You just gave me an idea. I saw small ornamental glass bottles. The old medicinal type. They use cork. I think I must source me some. Thanks @Stew

Reactions: Like 9


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## Stew

Resistance said:


> You just gave me an idea. I saw small ornamental glass bottles. The old medicinal type. They use cork. I think I must source me some. Thanks @Stew


My smallest corks are for the small scientific test tubes. Let me know if you source smaller ones please. Thanks.
PS. I got mine at Consol Glass years ago.

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## Resistance

Will do


Stew said:


> My smallest corks are for the small scientific test tubes. Let me know if you source smaller ones please. Thanks.
> PS. I got mine at Consol Glass years ago.

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## DarthBranMuffin

Added an action camera connector to a selfie stick, mounted on to the top shelve of my desk, now I have a removable and adjustable setup for my coil and wick recordings... still needs some fine tuning for angle and position, but beats having to sit with a tripod in front of me...

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## Grand Guru

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Added an action camera connector to a selfie stick, mounted on to the top shelve of my desk, now I have a removable and adjustable setup for my coil and wick recordings... still needs some fine tuning for angle and position, but beats having to sit with a tripod in front of me...
> 
> View attachment 216431
> View attachment 216432
> View attachment 216433


Are you uploading vids on YT?

Reactions: Like 8


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## Resistance

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Added an action camera connector to a selfie stick, mounted on to the top shelve of my desk, now I have a removable and adjustable setup for my coil and wick recordings... still needs some fine tuning for angle and position, but beats having to sit with a tripod in front of me...
> 
> View attachment 216431
> View attachment 216432
> View attachment 216433


Nice

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## DarthBranMuffin

Grand Guru said:


> Are you uploading vids on YT?



Yes, a little side project of Coil & Wick only, to help others with the basics.

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## DarthBranMuffin

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Yes, a little side project of Coil & Wick only, to help others with the basics.

Reactions: Winner 9


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## Stranger

Getting the tents out to check and air before packing for the trip.

Mine is easy.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 11


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## Dela Rey Steyn

R50 Venda cornershop cheap pipe and the threaded base of the short driptip of the Brunhilde. Going to recess the silver part into the stem tomorrow (well, later today-ish)

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 10


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## Resistance

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> R50 Venda cornershop cheap pipe and the threaded base of the short driptip of the Brunhilde. Going to recess the silver part into the stem tomorrow (well, later today-ish)
> View attachment 216879
> View attachment 216880



Is that the pipe in the making???

Reactions: Like 3


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## Dela Rey Steyn

Resistance said:


> Is that the pipe in the making???


Baby steps

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 2


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## vicTor



Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 3


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## DarthBranMuffin

Pre-Weekend project.... painted and kitted out my daughter's room... finishing touches tomorrow...

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 10


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## AKS

Yesterday,finally finished a Christmas gift for my sister’s friend,then jumped onto building a cake for my boy,4yrs old today. Helluva day it was,to bed at 4am.





Firewood cradle....




and birthday cake.

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 15


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## Stew

AKS said:


> Yesterday,finally finished a Christmas gift for my sister’s friend,then jumped onto building a cake for my boy,4yrs old today. Helluva day it was,to bed at 4am.
> 
> View attachment 217186
> View attachment 217187
> View attachment 217188
> 
> Firewood cradle....
> 
> View attachment 217189
> View attachment 217190
> 
> and birthday cake.


Very nice. Love the fire wood stand. Was guessing it was a shoe rack. LOL.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Funny 3


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## Resistance

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Pre-Weekend project.... painted and kitted out my daughter's room... finishing touches tomorrow...
> 
> View attachment 217136
> View attachment 217137
> View attachment 217138
> View attachment 217139
> View attachment 217140
> View attachment 217141
> View attachment 217142
> View attachment 217143


Lekka julle! It came out nice bro.

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## Resistance

AKS said:


> Yesterday,finally finished a Christmas gift for my sister’s friend,then jumped onto building a cake for my boy,4yrs old today. Helluva day it was,to bed at 4am.
> 
> View attachment 217186
> View attachment 217187
> View attachment 217188
> 
> Firewood cradle....
> 
> View attachment 217189
> View attachment 217190
> 
> and birthday cake.



Happy Birthday small @AKS.
Big @AKS you got skills bro. It looks awesomemazing!

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## Resistance

Couldn't find the thread,but in any case this was a project over the weekend.

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## SmokeyJoe

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Pre-Weekend project.... painted and kitted out my daughter's room... finishing touches tomorrow...
> 
> View attachment 217136
> View attachment 217137
> View attachment 217138
> View attachment 217139
> View attachment 217140
> View attachment 217141
> View attachment 217142
> View attachment 217143



Big up to your daughter wearing a tie dye shirt

I used to make them in high school for extra cash

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## vicTor

Resistance said:


> Couldn't find the thread,but in any case this was a project over the weekend.
> 
> View attachment 217199
> View attachment 217201
> View attachment 217200



so you got the pain in the arse screw out ?

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Funny 1


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## Resistance

vicTor said:


> so you got the pain in the arse screw out ?


It was fun!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

I was so impressed with @Rob Fisher 's "Tank to drill adapter" used for polishing his amazing collection, that I decided to make my own ... a 50mm long piece of 10mm stainless rod drilled to depth of 10mm at 6.5mm and then tapped to M7*0.5, and we have;
(I'll pass naming rights back to Rob)

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 9


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## Rob Fisher

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I was so impressed with @Rob Fisher 's "Tank to drill adapter" used for polishing his amazing collection, that I decided to make my own ... a 50mm long piece of 10mm stainless rod drilled to depth of 10mm at 6.5mm and then tapped to M7*0.5, and we have;
> (I'll pass naming rights back to Rob)
> View attachment 217607
> View attachment 217608

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 3


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## DarthBranMuffin

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I was so impressed with @Rob Fisher 's "Tank to drill adapter" used for polishing his amazing collection, that I decided to make my own ... a 50mm long piece of 10mm stainless rod drilled to depth of 10mm at 6.5mm and then tapped to M7*0.5, and we have;
> (I'll pass naming rights back to Rob)
> View attachment 217607
> View attachment 217608



Open for orders? My metal work skills ends at wrapping my own coils....

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1 | Funny 3


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## Intuthu Kagesi

So it's official then ... the thingamabob is henceforth known as a "WWCD Adapter"

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## Intuthu Kagesi

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Open for orders? My metal work skills ends at wrapping my own coils....


Sure 
Interesting that you say wrapping your own coils, as I think I'm going to cut a slot in the other end and then cross drill it and tap half the cross drilling, as then it could double up as clamp to hold wire(s) parallel when making coil wires. It'd be a better solution to the common practice of simply shoving wires into a chuck and hoping for the best

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> So it's official then ... the thingamabob is henceforth known as a "WWCD Adapter"





Rob Fisher said:


>


 Can I help....? 
1.The f/k wand.-(Fisher/kagesi)
2.WTB- wand thingimabob?

Reactions: Like 4 | Funny 3


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## Rob Fisher

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> (I'll pass naming rights back to Rob)



Any name is good... just glad we have a local source now! Maybe the KPG (Kagesi Polishing Goodie).

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 1 | Funny 1


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## Resistance

Today I cleaned out the BB. Re-wicked and refilled. Removed the screws.(inspired by @Chronix 's BB) with my home made screw extractor. 
The screen is busted, but I read that these clones have that issue. So I just cleaned out the mod.
I'm hoping to replace the screen and get new screws. If I don't get them I'll just rework them (cut slots) to fit a flat screwdriver. Oh and I raised the possitive pin by adding solder and cutting it down then sanding flat. My batteries didn't make contact and only one of them actually worked in there.




If I do find a screen I might respray or powder coat it.

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> If I do find a screen I might respray or powder coat it.



If its a *0.96IN (128X64) OLED*  you might be in luck.
Communica and Mantech both do oleds, SPI and the cheaper I2C. The screen looks the same on both versions.
https://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInfo.aspx?Item=15M6461
https://www.communica.co.za/products/bmt-i2c-0-96in-oled-128x64-blue

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> If its a *0.96IN (128X64) OLED*  you might be in luck.
> Communica and Mantech both do oleds, SPI and the cheaper I2C. The screen looks the same on both versions.
> https://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInfo.aspx?Item=15M6461
> https://www.communica.co.za/products/bmt-i2c-0-96in-oled-128x64-blue


Thanks. I'm checking it out right now.

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## Resistance

It doesn't look like the same thing. It measures 30 X 12mm and the ribbon is at the bottom(or to the side ) if you turn the screen to the correct orientation.
Thanks anyway.

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## Resistance

Repurposed plastic into an Atty tool.
Sometime I struggled to take the Zeus apart. 
Pure laziness ok I was quite busy recently and eventually I took this plastic I sourced for this purpose and cut through it to make this tool. I'll maybe cut the slit bigger so I can use it on smaller diameter Artie's. The main thing is it works.

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## Resistance

I also fixed my charge. This is really a die hard charger. The Tesiyi E25. Believe me this thing survived a venting. I cleaned it out repositioning the terminals and it's operational again.

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## Resistance

I picked up a project I started a while back and didn't finish. Today I finally got it done. It's working bit not as bright as I wanted it to be so I might rework it.
Other than that. I'm happy with the outcome.

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## DarthBranMuffin

Shelves are up...

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## Resistance

Cutting slots in some worn out grub screws so I can use this atty again (coil art Mage). My positive post on the Zeus single broke.

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## zadiac

Not a weekend project, but will post here. It's been a few months in the design stage.
Tripple 21700 DNA 250c mod. Will be printed with my new 2K resolution resin 3D printer.

















I was working on a C frame mod, but then saw the Vandy Vape Gaur-21 and ordered it. So not continuing with the C frame mod.

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## Resistance

zadiac said:


> Not a weekend project, but will post here. It's been a few months in the design stage.
> Tripple 21700 DNA 250c mod. Will be printed with my new 2K resolution resin 3D printer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was working on a C frame mod, but then saw the Vandy Vape Gaur-21 and ordered it. So not continuing with the C frame mod.



It's still a project and it's still welcome to be posted.
Anyway you already told us so pics when you do it or it didn't happen!

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## zadiac

Resistance said:


> It's still a project and it's still welcome to be posted.
> Anyway you already told us so pics when you do it or it didn't happen!



It will happen, but not sure when coz also busy doing vocal recordings for a friend and then the editing afterwards could take a few weeks. After that I'll be able to focus my time on the mod. Working on the design a little at a time when I can. Will def post here when it's printed and when it's finalized.

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## vicTor

zadiac said:


> It will happen, but not sure when coz also busy doing vocal recordings for a friend and then the editing afterwards could take a few weeks. After that I'll be able to focus my time on the mod. Working on the design a little at a time when I can. Will def post here when it's printed and when it's finalized.



are you in a band Sir ?

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## zadiac

vicTor said:


> are you in a band Sir ?



Nope, but I do vocal recordings from time to time. Mostly for up-and-coming new singers, but now busy with recordings for an old friends. Did Ray Dylan and Lianie May's first demo's for them. (lol....if you even know who they are. Afrikaans recording artists.)

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## vicTor

zadiac said:


> Nope, but I do vocal recordings from time to time. Mostly for up-and-coming new singers, but now busy with recordings for an old friends. Did Ray Dylan and Lianie May's first demo's for them. (lol....if you even know who they are. Afrikaans recording artists.)



interesting, thanks, all the best with that man

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## Stew

Syponing the sediment out of my JoJo tank. Working quite well.

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## blujeenz

Just finished up a LPG bottle dolly for a holiday house on the west coast, the growing criminal element steals them whether chained of caged.
So necessity means it must be wheeled inside, a 35kg plus bottle is not something I want to tackle after back surgery.
Bonus is that if stolen it will be a lot easier to identify being a custom build.
This design wouldnt have been possible without a ring roller from Machinery Mart (R1495)

Wheels 75mm x 25mm wide with 13mm bore rated for 60kgs. R100
Steel 5x 25mm flat bar and 25mm tube R200
12mm steel rod for the axle R75


Testing it out with 40kgs of molding sand, wheels are a bit small but fine on hard surfaces where it will mainly be used.

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## Raindance

blujeenz said:


> Just finished up a LPG bottle dolly for a holiday house on the west coast, the growing criminal element steals them whether chained of caged.
> So necessity means it must be wheeled inside, a 35kg plus bottle is not something I want to tackle after back surgery.
> Bonus is that if stolen it will be a lot easier to identify being a custom build.
> This design wouldnt have been possible without a ring roller from Machinery Mart (R1495)
> 
> Wheels 75mm x 25mm wide with 13mm bore rated for 60kgs. R100
> Steel 5x 25mm flat bar and 25mm tube R200
> 12mm steel rod for the axle R75
> 
> 
> Testing it out with 40kgs of molding sand, wheels are a bit small but fine on hard surfaces where it will mainly be used.
> View attachment 219345


Great idea, actually disguise the LPG bottle inside those. Doubt they will want to steal Tupperware.

regards

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Just finished up a LPG bottle dolly for a holiday house on the west coast, the growing criminal element steals them whether chained of caged.
> So necessity means it must be wheeled inside, a 35kg plus bottle is not something I want to tackle after back surgery.
> Bonus is that if stolen it will be a lot easier to identify being a custom build.
> This design wouldnt have been possible without a ring roller from Machinery Mart (R1495)
> 
> Wheels 75mm x 25mm wide with 13mm bore rated for 60kgs. R100
> Steel 5x 25mm flat bar and 25mm tube R200
> 12mm steel rod for the axle R75
> 
> 
> Testing it out with 40kgs of molding sand, wheels are a bit small but fine on hard surfaces where it will mainly be used.
> View attachment 219345


The fun never stops. Awesome build brother.

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Great idea, actually disguise the LPG bottle inside those. Doubt they will want to steal Tupperware.
> 
> regards


That actually a brilliant idea. I thought that was the plan before reading' sand'

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

Resistance said:


> I thought that was the plan before reading' sand'



Me too !

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## Puff the Magic Dragon



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## blujeenz

Raindance said:


> Great idea, actually disguise the LPG bottle inside those. Doubt they will want to steal Tupperware.
> 
> regards





Resistance said:


> That actually a brilliant idea. I thought that was the plan before reading' sand'





Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> Me too !



I've actually had a small 20L barrel with a ring clamp lid stolen out of my backyard, seems its a makeshift toilet or water container for the Dunoon dwellers.
Needless to say 2 clip lid buckets on a trolley would be most attractive to the type of person who stole the last one.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> I've actually had a small 20L barrel with a ring clamp lid stolen out of my backyard, seems its a makeshift toilet or water container for the Dunoon dwellers.
> Needless to say 2 clip lid buckets on a trolley would be most attractive to the type of person who stole the last one.


Not funny, sorry for that brother. I know they steal everything around here too. 
That trolley should make it easier to cart the tank around. 
Maybe building a concrete bottle safe would be a good long term idea.

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## Resistance

Trying to sort out the thing I never get to build.


In my workshop of course
I don't know, bit I have more control over the electric drill.

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## Resistance

During load shedding.


When our power supply eventually got restored


And the product. 30x3 x36 all SS


Swivels are not complying lekka, but now I know what I want to change. And also build a drill clamp.

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## Resistance

Work apparel fix

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## blujeenz

This was sposed to be finished yesterday, but load shedding cut 5hrs out of my welding and grinding time. 
Anyhow, a small furnace dolly with a cam action lift and open lid.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> This was sposed to be finished yesterday, but load shedding cut 5hrs out of my welding and grinding time.
> Anyhow, a small furnace dolly with a cam action lift and open lid.
> 
> View attachment 219770
> View attachment 219771



What a pity you're not in JHB, as I'd be calling on you for Ally and Copper stock

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## blujeenz

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> What a pity you're not in JHB, as I'd be calling on you for Ally and Copper stock


Sadly Im going to rub it in as well.

The cast ally machines very nicely too.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> Sadly Im going to rub it in as well.
> 
> The cast ally machines very nicely too.



Grrrrrrrrrr ... I really didn't want to hear that

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Grrrrrrrrrr ... I really didn't want to hear that



Just a thought ... Why not have a look at casting some of the common Japanese Off road bike clutch and brake levers 
I go through at least one a month  and they're becoming rather pricey with the rand going south

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## DarthBranMuffin

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Just a thought ... Why not have a look at casting some of the common Japanese Off road bike clutch and brake levers
> I go through at least one a month  and they're becoming rather pricey with the rand going south



You are not supposed to chew on them when standing for more than a minute...

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## Intuthu Kagesi

DarthBranMuffin said:


> You are not supposed to chew on them when standing for more than a minute...



LMAO ... there is admittedly some grinding of teeth too on occasion 

The general consensus at tracks is that you're not pushing hard enough if you're not falling off, and more often than not, the first item(s) to take a beating when you fall off, are them levers

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Just thought of another easy-peasy casting job for you @blujeenz ... Make up a mould of a cricket ball and cast that in solid ally ... then file two flats top and bottom, and tap the top with an M7*0.5
You then enlist the services of @DarthBranMuffin to buff it up nicely, before sending it on to me as a build stand  

I'll of course take one for the team and test it indefinitely

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## blujeenz

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Just a thought ... Why not have a look at casting some of the common Japanese Off road bike clutch and brake levers
> I go through at least one a month  and they're becoming rather pricey with the rand going south


Making the pattern is a time consuming business, I had 3 of my own that I melted, but before they went into the furnace I had a squiz as to how they were made. Seems to be a 2 part affair and some finicky machining, at the moment a bit out of my experience level.
The upside is that I find a lot of bike levers at the scrapyard. 

Just a thought, I installed hand guards on my Enfield and broken levers are a thing of the past for me.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> Making the pattern is a time consuming business, I had 3 of my own that I melted, but before they went into the furnace I had a squiz as to how they were made. Seems to be a 2 part affair and some finicky machining, at the moment a bit out of my experience level.
> The upside is that I find a lot of bike levers at the scrapyard.
> 
> Just a thought, I installed hand guards on my Enfield and broken levers are a thing of the past for me.



I'm sure making a mould / pattern is no easy task, and ... for a man of your skills ... challenging, and not insurmountable, to which I eagerly await further updates on your progress  ... in the meantime, I'll continue breaking levers to provide you with raw materials 

As to your hand guards ... GET RID OF THEM ASAP!
If you come off over your handlebars, they will trap your hands, and you will literally snap your hands clean off at the wrist ... 
They should have been banned years ago!

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I'm sure making a mould / pattern is no easy task, and ... for a man of your skills ... challenging, and not insurmountable, to which I eagerly await further updates on your progress  ... in the meantime, I'll continue breaking levers to provide you with raw materials
> 
> As to your hand guards ... GET RID OF THEM ASAP!
> If you come off over your handlebars, they will trap your hands, and you will literally snap your hands clean off at the wrist ...
> They should have been banned years ago!



Bro, let me just butter him up quick, you'll thank me later.
Have you seen @blujeenz 's work? Bro that man is talented and skilled. You had to see him cast his trolley wheels, amazing!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> Bro, let me just butter him up quick, you'll thank me later.
> Have you seen @blujeenz 's work? Bro that man is talented and skilled. You had to see him cast his trolley wheels, amazing!


Get a move on buttering them dammit! ... I neeeeeeeeeeed them levers  ... and yes indeed, I have seen some of his work here on the forum, hence my erm "suggestions"

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Get a move on buttering them dammit! ... I neeeeeeeeeeed them levers  ... and yes indeed, I have seen some of his work here on the forum, hence my erm "suggestions"



You should check his instructables. There's so muchore to this great guy than what we see here. His got his own following too.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> You should check his instructables. There's so muchore to this great guy than what we see here. His got his own following too.



Really?  ... Please post a link here, as I'd love to take a peek, (_and I'm sure others too_)

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## blujeenz

@Resistance thanks for the buttering bro, I have salt, just need some popcorn. 
@Intuthu Kagesi my Instructables link, https://www.instructables.com/member/petercd/

I angled my guards downwards so the top of the guards is level with my knuckles. 
I T-boned a car and flew over his roof, but not before I crushed my finger tip between his car window and my handle bar, couldnt use my right hand to wipe my butt for a year. Hence my wanting the guards.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> @Resistance thanks for the buttering bro, I have salt, just need some popcorn.
> @Intuthu Kagesi my Instructables link, https://www.instructables.com/member/petercd/
> 
> I angled my guards downwards so the top of the guards is level with my knuckles.
> I T-boned a car and flew over his roof, but not before I crushed my finger tip between his car window and my handle bar, couldnt use my right hand to wipe my butt for a year. Hence my wanting the guards.


Eina!

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Really?  ... Please post a link here, as I'd love to take a peek, (_and I'm sure others too_)


Don't forget to vote! Whoo hoo!

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## Raindance

Redneck weber build. Anyone else use their sink to cook food?









Regards

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> @Resistance thanks for the buttering bro, I have salt, just need some popcorn.
> @Intuthu Kagesi my Instructables link, https://www.instructables.com/member/petercd/
> 
> I angled my guards downwards so the top of the guards is level with my knuckles.
> I T-boned a car and flew over his roof, but not before I crushed my finger tip between his car window and my handle bar, couldnt use my right hand to wipe my butt for a year. Hence my wanting the guards.



LMAO at the buttering ... and nothing wrong with a lil' acknowledgement from time to time BTW ... If you're good, you're good! 

Thanks for the link ... I'm gonna go take me a lil' peek 

On to the hand guards ... I'll take a pic or 20 of my bikes tomorrow, (_aint going to my bike garage now ... it's almost la la time_), and you'll see that none of my bikes have them. 
In my 50 odd years of racing I've never used them, nor have most, (_if not all_), of the guys that have been around the block a few times either ... it's generally only the newbies and youngsters that use em', as they have fallen foul of the sales guys eager to add on them "extras" to the sale.
I get that you're wary of injuring yourself again, and that you want some protection, aaaaand ... I'm still very wary of them guards, having witnessed some horrific sh## with them, (_thankfully not me_) ... anyhooooooo ... moving on swiftly ... lemme go check your link

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Redneck weber build. Anyone else use their sink to cook food?
> View attachment 219829
> 
> View attachment 219830
> 
> View attachment 219831
> 
> View attachment 219832
> 
> 
> Regards


Awesome project. We didn't Weber it we used the full sink as a complete braai stand with a his and hers matching table. We were going to make a smoker ,but never got that far.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Raindance said:


> Redneck weber build. Anyone else use their sink to cook food?
> View attachment 219829
> 
> View attachment 219830
> 
> View attachment 219831
> 
> View attachment 219832
> 
> 
> Regards



n' boer maak a plan, en n' engelse een wat werk  ... now that's innovative!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Really?  ... Please post a link here, as I'd love to take a peek, (_and I'm sure others too_)


I just had a quick peek ... *VERY IMPRESSIVE INDEED!*  ... You are officially worse than me 

To any forum members reading this post ... Pay the site https://www.instructables.com/member/petercd/ a visit!

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## Resistance



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## Intuthu Kagesi

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> LMAO at the buttering ... and nothing wrong with a lil' acknowledgement from time to time BTW ... If you're good, you're good!
> 
> Thanks for the link ... I'm gonna go take me a lil' peek
> 
> On to the hand guards ... I'll take a pic or 20 of my bikes tomorrow, (_aint going to my bike garage now ... it's almost la la time_), and you'll see that none of my bikes have them.
> In my 50 odd years of racing I've never used them, nor have most, (_if not all_), of the guys that have been around the block a few times either ... it's generally only the newbies and youngsters that use em', as they have fallen foul of the sales guys eager to add on them "extras" to the sale.
> I get that you're wary of injuring yourself again, and that you want some protection, aaaaand ... I'm still very wary of them guards, having witnessed some horrific sh## with them, (_thankfully not me_) ... anyhooooooo ... moving on swiftly ... lemme go check your link



As promised, herewith a pic of my bike garage ... Not a handguard in site

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## DarthBranMuffin

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> As promised, herewith a pic of my bike garage ... Not a handguard in site
> View attachment 219857



Oh Wow... 748?!?!?! What a machine! And what is that with the SKULLS on it.... masterpiece custom paint job there!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Oh Wow... 748?!?!?! What a machine! And what is that with the SKULLS on it.... masterpiece custom paint job there!


I always wanted a 916, (_as it was the bike that changed the way all bikes would be made, and designed by a South African to boot!_), but by the time I could afford one, they'd been discontinued and replaced with the 748R, which is lighter and more powerful, however shares the same frame and bodywork.
The Skulls one is a fuel injected YZ450 and next to it a carb fed YZ450, and two YZ250's, (_my competition bikes_)

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## DarthBranMuffin

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I always wanted a 916, (_as it was the bike that changed the way all bikes would be made, and designed by a South African to boot!_), but by the time I could afford one, they'd been discontinued and replaced with the 748R, which is lighter and more powerful, however shares the same frame and bodywork.
> The Skulls one is a fuel injected YZ450 and next to it a carb fed YZ450, and two YZ250's, (_my competition bikes_)



the days when WSB was dominated by Foggy on a duke.... and then they bored the 916 out to the 1026 (which Foggy tested as well and fell in love with it).... that shape was (and is) still my favorite ever.... My top 3: 916/748, then the Kawasaki ZX7-RR (in classic green, purple and white) then original Fireblade 900... the iconic machines of an era that shaped the superbikes of today.

Enough hijacking the thread now... back to weekend projects...

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Whilst on the subject of bikes ... I had an old, circa 1982, Suzuki GSX750, and rather than toss it into a scrapheap, being the sentimentalist that I am, decided to go full retro, and turn it into a cafe racer.
It's work in progress at the mo' and somewhat low down the project priority scale, nonetheless, it's almost at the final strip down, paint / plate and reassemble stage.

Before ...



Current State (WIP) ...

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## ace_d_house_cat

748

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## Intuthu Kagesi

DarthBranMuffin said:


> the days when WSB was dominated by Foggy on a duke.... and then they bored the 916 out to the 1026 (which Foggy tested as well and fell in love with it).... that shape was (and is) still my favorite ever.... My top 3: 916/748, then the Kawasaki ZX7-RR (in classic green, purple and white) then original Fireblade 900... the iconic machines of an era that shaped the superbikes of today.
> 
> Enough hijacking the thread now... back to weekend projects...


I'm impressed  ... You know the Duke history  ... WRT your ZX7-RR, can I change that to a 500 triple as my favourites? ... O man was that a beeeeeeeeutiful bike, mind you, the 1300-6 was right up there too, (_albeit that they didn't shape the industry overly_), and yup the original Fireblade 900 still is a mindf### in my opinion

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## DarthBranMuffin

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I'm impressed  ... You know the Duke history  ... WRT your ZX7-RR, can I change that to a 500 triple as my favourites? ... O man was that a beeeeeeeeutiful bike, mind you, the 1300-6 was right up there too, (_albeit that they didn't shape the industry overly_), and yup the original Fireblade 900 still is a mindf### in my opinion



The Tripple 500 paved the way for the '72 Mach IV H2 750cc (aka Widow Maker)... My cousin started rebuilding one from scratch and being a mechanical engineer he quickly did the math realizing that the time it will take him to fix it up will outweigh the time he will have left on this earth and gave it up for the sake of future posterity...

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## supermoto

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Whilst on the subject of bikes ... I had an old, circa 1982, Suzuki GSX750, and rather than toss it into a scrapheap, being the sentimentalist that I am, decided to go full retro, and turn it into a cafe racer.
> It's work in progress at the mo' and somewhat low down the project priority scale, nonetheless, it's almost at the final strip down, paint / plate and reassemble stage.
> 
> Before ...
> View attachment 219859
> 
> 
> Current State (WIP) ...
> View attachment 219860


I always wanted a gsx but never found a good one at a price I could afford.
2 years ago though I did find a good GS1000G 1984 model.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

DarthBranMuffin said:


> The Tripple 500 paved the way for the '72 Mach IV H2 750cc (aka Widow Maker)... My cousin started rebuilding one from scratch and being a mechanical engineer he quickly did the math realizing that the time it will take him to fix it up will outweigh the time he will have left on this earth and gave it up for the sake of future posterity...



At one stage I was prepared to donate one of my nuts for a H2, (_thankfully that never happened_  ), and I got me a 'waterbuffalo' instead, (_a Suzuki 750 triple_). Sadly those 70's Jap bikes had poor ... no, let me call it what it is, KAK handling and that little monster met with a rather sad demise resulting in me forever causing an uproar at airport security, with a steel pin in my right leg

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## Intuthu Kagesi

supermoto said:


> I always wanted a gsx but never found a good one at a price I could afford.
> 2 years ago though I did find a good GS1000G 1984 model.
> View attachment 219866


That's a Beaut Classic! ... You must do the 520 chain conversion, and whilst you're about it ... drop one tooth on the front, and go up 4 on the rear  ... It'll drop your top speed to around 180, buuuuut ... you'll compete if not beat a modern superbike on acceleration 

EDIT: ... Ooooops .... I just saw that it's a G ... a shaft drive ... Sowwie, scrap that comment above

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> As promised, herewith a pic of my bike garage ... Not a handguard in site
> View attachment 219857


748... The fun has found you!

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## blujeenz

While scratching in the ally bag at the scrapyard, I found a Twisp Okta mod with part of a tank still attached. It was on and had a full batt, I searched for glass and the rest of the atty but didn't find any. Thought maybe someone lent over and it dropped out.
Anyhow, saw the 510 was very loose so I took it apart at home and gave it a major service, after fiddling with the soldering iron I decided to go with Q-bond and the grey filler powder.
Not a bad mod from 2017... 5000ma batt and at the scrap ally price of R20 kg I paid R4.16 for it.
Bazinga as Rob would say.

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## Stranger

Wish I still had this one. Weekend projects was riding it.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Whilst clearing out some old parts in my workshop earlier, came across an old? piston from Moses' time, so I decided to build a "cliche' mod stand" ... I've found that I can never have enough of them, as my mates keep mooching them.
Soooo I cut of her skirts, sanded her butt, drilled and tapped her crown, and slapped on a few o-rings as pseudo rings, and ...

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## Stranger

Chicken dinner mate

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 5 | Thanks 1


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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stranger said:


> Wish I still had this one. Weekend projects was riding it.
> View attachment 219912
> View attachment 219913



You need to get another one Stranger ... VFR's are yummy
I had your bikes grandfather, a VFR1000 ... man that V4 four in full song is right up there with a Ducati

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## Stranger

I could never afford one , but that RC8 was the dream bike. If any of you ever did AMID days, I was the HEAD Marshal in charge of the Think bike crews. Got to ride everything.

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## Stranger

.

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## Raindance

Stranger said:


> Wish I still had this one. Weekend projects was riding it.
> View attachment 219912
> View attachment 219913


Right there with you brother...





Those were the days. Sigh.

Regards

Reactions: Winner 10


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> While scratching in the ally bag at the scrapyard, I found a Twisp Okta mod with part of a tank still attached. It was on and had a full batt, I searched for glass and the rest of the atty but didn't find any. Thought maybe someone lent over and it dropped out.
> Anyhow, saw the 510 was very loose so I took it apart at home and gave it a major service, after fiddling with the soldering iron I decided to go with Q-bond and the grey filler powder.
> Not a bad mod from 2017... 5000ma batt and at the scrap ally price of R20 kg I paid R4.16 for it.
> Bazinga as Rob would say.
> View attachment 219905
> View attachment 219906


Awesome find brother. Now your putting it to use again.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Not a weekend project, but what the hell, with the plaque upon us, (_that's more our government than Covid_); Every day has become just another day at home ... anyhooooo ... and moving on swiftly; 
So scratching around in the ol' garage scrap metal pile earlier, found a duralumin offcut, so @ARYANTO gets his "_daily rotation tank stand_" a little earlier than anticipated , (_minus the two RDA's tho'_);

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## ARYANTO

Yee HAA! thank you very much

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## Intuthu Kagesi

ARYANTO said:


> Yee HAA! thank you very much


You're welcome bud

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Not a weekend project, but what the hell, with the plaque upon us, (_that's more our government than Covid_); Every day has become just another day at home ... anyhooooo ... and moving on swiftly;
> So scratching around in the ol' garage scrap metal pile earlier, found a duralumin offcut, so @ARYANTO gets his "_daily rotation tank stand_" a little earlier than anticipated , (_minus the two RDA's tho'_);
> 
> View attachment 220654





ARYANTO said:


> Yee HAA! thank you very much



Magnifico!

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## SmokeyJoe

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Not a weekend project, but what the hell, with the plaque upon us, (_that's more our government than Covid_); Every day has become just another day at home ... anyhooooo ... and moving on swiftly;
> So scratching around in the ol' garage scrap metal pile earlier, found a duralumin offcut, so @ARYANTO gets his "_daily rotation tank stand_" a little earlier than anticipated , (_minus the two RDA's tho'_);
> 
> View attachment 220654



duralumin? 
Isnt that the sh1t Tony Stark is looking for?

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## SmokeyJoe

Nevermind. He is dead.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

SmokeyJoe said:


> duralumin?
> Isnt that the sh1t Tony Stark is looking for?



LOL ... Naah  ... It's just a copper aluminium alloy ... I needed a tough non ferrous metal for a generator I designed, and this stuff is the bomb, as it can be hardened and tempered just like some ferrous metals

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Has anyone on the forum played around / had any experience with ultrasonic transducers? (_outside of the common usage in high frequency baths that is_), as I'd like to explore some possibilities.

It seems they make excellent atomisers, (_they may well be alternatives to what we currently use as attys_?), and they're fantastic for mixing liquids, (_even offering true homogenizing, even molecular disintegration at certain frequencies_!), along with degassing of fluids, (_which should perk up some interest with anyone mixing up eliquid_).

Mantech have a few reasonably priced high power transducers, and knocking up a high power oscillator is easy enough

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Has anyone on the forum played around / had any experience with ultrasonic transducers? (_outside of the common usage in high frequency baths that is_), as I'd like to explore some possibilities.
> 
> It seems they make excellent atomisers, (_they may well be alternatives to what we currently use as attys_?), and they're fantastic for mixing liquids, (_even offering true homogenizing, even molecular disintegration at certain frequencies_!), along with degassing of fluids, (_which should perk up some interest with anyone mixing up eliquid_).
> 
> Mantech have a few reasonably priced high power transducers, and knocking up a high power oscillator is easy enough


Haven't yet. Sorry

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## Resistance

https://www.electrical4u.com/transducer-types-of-transducer/


Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Has anyone on the forum played around / had any experience with ultrasonic transducers? (_outside of the common usage in high frequency baths that is_), as I'd like to explore some possibilities.
> 
> It seems they make excellent atomisers, (_they may well be alternatives to what we currently use as attys_?), and they're fantastic for mixing liquids, (_even offering true homogenizing, even molecular disintegration at certain frequencies_!), along with degassing of fluids, (_which should perk up some interest with anyone mixing up eliquid_).
> 
> Mantech have a few reasonably priced high power transducers, and knocking up a high power oscillator is easy enough

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> Haven't yet. Sorry


Then it's an opportunity for us to learn  ... the one below is reasonable enough to test with ... and it's 50W to boot!

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Then it's an opportunity for us to learn  ... the one below is reasonable enough to test with ... and it's 50W to boot!
> View attachment 220954
> 
> View attachment 220955


Yes that version goes on the ultrasonic mixers.
Didn't know you get the complete end unit as a spare part.

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## Resistance

The Usonocig already used it as a vaporisers. You might want to check their site. It was a pod system.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> Yes that version goes on the ultrasonic mixers.
> Didn't know you get the complete end unit as a spare part.



It seems so  ... I'll pop into Mantech tomorrow and pick up one, an' lets give it a go  ... I do know that by extending the front section, one can alter it's resonant frequency, and as I'll be attaching a conical rod of sorts to be able to dip into a beaker, I'm hoping to be able to raise that frequency upwards fairly substantially

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> The Usonocig already used it as a vaporisers. You might want to check their site. It was a pod system.


Thanks ... Lemme go check it out 

EDIT: Check this out

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Then it's an opportunity for us to learn  ... the one below is reasonable enough to test with ... and it's 50W to boot!
> View attachment 220954
> 
> View attachment 220955


Also check out the second item on the pic you posted. Ultrasonic Attomiser. It's worth a look into don't you think. I'm intrigued now!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Soooo ... some feedback on my earlier 40KHz 50W transducer test;
I purchased one this morning from Mantech, and set up a quick test with a signal generator into an old NAD Mosfet amp, (_claimed to work from DC to 100KHz into 2ohm loads_). 
I machined a tapered tip of 75mm, (_thumbsuck measurement , as there was no way I was going to have a full wavelength tip of 7494.81metres, for 40KHz _), screwed it into the transducer, connected it all and powered up ....

Sooooo moving on swiftly from that disastrous failure of a test that barely vibrated my 50:50 mix of PG and VG ... I contacted a company in Germany called Hielscher Ultrasonics, who make commercial sonicator units, (_that's what they call their homogenisers_), and it seems that considerably more than 50Watts is required, (_at a much higher frequency_) to "sonicate" a beaker of eliquid. An extract of their mail to me follows;

Thank you for your feedback. The ultrasound works differently from a conventional homogenizer. The basic principle of the ultrasound is that, under a particular frequency and amplitude, sound waves produce vacuum bubbles (cavitation) in liquids. These bubbles grow to a critical size and then collapse. This results in a high release of energy in the liquid medium, which can be used for mixing, extracting, etc. In our experience your frequency and power is too low for glycerin, even at a 50 percent dilution.

As a first proposal, I would suggest our UP400St, which is our most powerful lab unit, suitable for the sonication of most materials at laboratory and pre-industrial scales. Its price is around 6000 €.

As discussed, in Johannesburg we have a local partner, who works on plant extraction. I think they also use our devices for extraction in glycerine. If you are interested in our devices, they can probably arrange a demonstration and import a device for you. I cc'd Dr. Ferguson to this e-mail. Here their contact details and a link to their company at our website: 
https://www.hielscher.com/w-last-high-quality-extracts-with-sonication.htm

I'll certainly attend the proposed test / demonstration for curiosity sake, however I'm still reeling under the effects of the erm ... 6000 € price tag , and think I'll be shelving this as a DIY project until I know a LOT more about it.

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## blujeenz

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Soooo ... some feedback on my earlier 40KHz 50W transducer test;
> I purchased one this morning from Mantech, and set up a quick test with a signal generator into an old NAD Mosfet amp, (_claimed to work from DC to 100KHz into 2ohm loads_).
> I machined a tapered tip of 75mm, (_thumbsuck measurement , as there was no way I was going to have a full wavelength tip of 7494.81metres, for 40KHz _), screwed it into the transducer, connected it all and powered up ....
> 
> Sooooo moving on swiftly from that disastrous failure of a test that barely vibrated my 50:50 mix of PG and VG ... I contacted a company in Germany called Hielscher Ultrasonics, who make commercial sonicator units, (_that's what they call their homogenisers_), and it seems that considerably more than 50Watts is required, (_at a much higher frequency_) to "sonicate" a beaker of eliquid. An extract of their mail to me follows;
> 
> Thank you for your feedback. The ultrasound works differently from a conventional homogenizer. The basic principle of the ultrasound is that, under a particular frequency and amplitude, sound waves produce vacuum bubbles (cavitation) in liquids. These bubbles grow to a critical size and then collapse. This results in a high release of energy in the liquid medium, which can be used for mixing, extracting, etc. In our experience your frequency and power is too low for glycerin, even at a 50 percent dilution.
> 
> As a first proposal, I would suggest our UP400St, which is our most powerful lab unit, suitable for the sonication of most materials at laboratory and pre-industrial scales. Its price is around 6000 €.
> 
> As discussed, in Johannesburg we have a local partner, who works on plant extraction. I think they also use our devices for extraction in glycerine. If you are interested in our devices, they can probably arrange a demonstration and import a device for you. I cc'd Dr. Ferguson to this e-mail. Here their contact details and a link to their company at our website:
> https://www.hielscher.com/w-last-high-quality-extracts-with-sonication.htm
> 
> I'll certainly attend the proposed test / demonstration for curiosity sake, however I'm still reeling under the effects of the erm ... 6000 € price tag , and think I'll be shelving this as a DIY project until I know a LOT more about it.


C'mon, what happened to the old saying ... "in for a penny, in for a pound"

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> C'mon, what happened to the old saying ... "in for a penny, in for a pound"


Soooooo ... I calculated the length of rod for the transducer at like 7Km or thereabouts , so even a quarter wavelength would have meant almost a kilometer long "probe", so I canned that and did a thumb suck of 75mm and decided to adjust the signal generators frequency as apposed to adjusting the length of "probe", and ... for those that don't know how the "_old fashioned method_" of finding the resonant frequency of a coil works ... an inductor, (or coil), draws maximum current at resonant frequency, (_as the current and voltage waveforms move from 90 degrees out of phase to perfectly in phase_). 

So by placing one scope probe across a shunt resistor, and another across the transducer, one gets two scope traces, one of voltage, and one of current, and it's a fairly simple? exercise of adjusting the frequency until the current sine wave is at it's highest, which should at that point also be in phase with the voltage sine wave ... which kinda happened ... (give or take about 10 degrees ), and I carried on ... with zero happening in the beaker. 
I was pushing some 20Watts into the transducer at this point, so ... I continued increasing the voltage, expecting something ... anything? to start happening, (_at this point I should add that the amplifier was in bridge mode, meaning a potential 400Watt output with soft clipping ... more commonly known as DC at clipping_!).

So somewhere between the initial 20 and some 400Watts? into a device that was only good for some 50 ... things got just a tad warm, and started emulating Red Indian territory ... with a few smoke signals, (_thankfully from the cabling_), albeit that the transducer was a tad warm ... but that's not where it ends ...

Those that have cooked inductors or transformers know that the external temperature goes up further even after disconnecting the supply, due to the (MUCH HOTTER) core temperature requiring time to radiate outwards, and it's about that time that I picked up the transducer, and surprised my Domestic Executive with my command of, (four letter military), vocabulary ... 
{now thats already waaaaaaay too much incriminating information, so I'll now apply what the Americans refer to as the 5th amendment, and in SA, what we call "the Zuma", and shut up!}

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Soooooo ... I calculated the length of rod for the transducer at like 7Km or thereabouts , so even a quarter wavelength would have meant almost a kilometer long "probe", so I canned that and did a thumb suck of 75mm and decided to adjust the signal generators frequency as apposed to adjusting the length of "probe", and ... for those that don't know how the "_old fashioned method_" of finding the resonant frequency of a coil works ... an inductor, (or coil), draws maximum current at resonant frequency, (_as the current and voltage waveforms move from 90 degrees out of phase to perfectly in phase_).
> 
> So by placing one scope probe across a shunt resistor, and another across the transducer, one gets two scope traces, one of voltage, and one of current, and it's a fairly simple? exercise of adjusting the frequency until the current sine wave is at it's highest, which should at that point also be in phase with the voltage sine wave ... which kinda happened ... (give or take about 10 degrees ), and I carried on ... with zero happening in the beaker.
> I was pushing some 20Watts into the transducer at this point, so ... I continued increasing the voltage, expecting something ... anything? to start happening, (_at this point I should add that the amplifier was in bridge mode, meaning a potential 400Watt output with soft clipping ... more commonly known as DC at clipping_!).
> 
> So somewhere between the initial 20 and some 400Watts? into a device that was only good for some 50 ... things got just a tad warm, and started emulating Red Indian territory ... with a few smoke signals, (_thankfully from the cabling_), albeit that the transducer was a tad warm ... but that's not where it ends ...
> 
> Those that have cooked inductors or transformers know that the external temperature goes up further even after disconnecting the supply, due to the (MUCH HOTTER) core temperature requiring time to radiate outwards, and it's about that time that I picked up the transducer, and surprised my Domestic Executive with my command of, (four letter military), vocabulary ...
> {now thats already waaaaaaay too much incriminating information, so I'll now apply what the Americans refer to as the 5th amendment, and in SA, what we call "the Zuma", and shut up!}



Ok so that didn't work. Why not try a piezo wrapped in plastic, into the 50/50plain mix and then just send frequency waves to it.

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Soooooo ... I calculated the length of rod for the transducer at like 7Km or thereabouts , so even a quarter wavelength would have meant almost a kilometer long "probe", so I canned that and did a thumb suck of 75mm and decided to adjust the signal generators frequency as apposed to adjusting the length of "probe", and ... for those that don't know how the "_old fashioned method_" of finding the resonant frequency of a coil works ... an inductor, (or coil), draws maximum current at resonant frequency, (_as the current and voltage waveforms move from 90 degrees out of phase to perfectly in phase_).
> 
> So by placing one scope probe across a shunt resistor, and another across the transducer, one gets two scope traces, one of voltage, and one of current, and it's a fairly simple? exercise of adjusting the frequency until the current sine wave is at it's highest, which should at that point also be in phase with the voltage sine wave ... which kinda happened ... (give or take about 10 degrees ), and I carried on ... with zero happening in the beaker.
> I was pushing some 20Watts into the transducer at this point, so ... I continued increasing the voltage, expecting something ... anything? to start happening, (_at this point I should add that the amplifier was in bridge mode, meaning a potential 400Watt output with soft clipping ... more commonly known as DC at clipping_!).
> 
> So somewhere between the initial 20 and some 400Watts? into a device that was only good for some 50 ... things got just a tad warm, and started emulating Red Indian territory ... with a few smoke signals, (_thankfully from the cabling_), albeit that the transducer was a tad warm ... but that's not where it ends ...
> 
> Those that have cooked inductors or transformers know that the external temperature goes up further even after disconnecting the supply, due to the (MUCH HOTTER) core temperature requiring time to radiate outwards, and it's about that time that I picked up the transducer, and surprised my Domestic Executive with my command of, (four letter military), vocabulary ...
> {now thats already waaaaaaay too much incriminating information, so I'll now apply what the Americans refer to as the 5th amendment, and in SA, what we call "the Zuma", and shut up!}


By the way.. 50 points for trying and another 50 for doing. Awesome.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> Ok so that didn't work. Why not try a piezo wrapped in plastic, into the 50/50plain mix and then just send frequency waves to it.



That's certainly a possibility  ... I want to dismember a 500Watt Piezo tweeter, and see if I can somehow attach a probe of sorts to where the cone normally mounts. First prize is to keep the piezo crystal itself far away from anything that can alter it's resonant frequency, (_including any protective coating_), also, that it's chemical makeup includes some _"man made elements_" other than quartz, that might be altered by immersing it in eliquid, and the idea of growing another schwantz from my armpit does little to inspire taking secondary chemical risks.

Check out; https://circuitglobe.com/piezo-electric-transducer.html for some fairly easy to understand info on quartz crystal transducers

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> That's certainly a possibility  ... I want to dismember a 500Watt Piezo tweeter, and see if I can somehow attach a probe of sorts to where the cone normally mounts. First prize is to keep the piezo crystal itself far away from anything that can alter it's resonant frequency, (_including any protective coating_), also, that it's chemical makeup includes some _"man made elements_" other than quartz, that might be altered by immersing it in eliquid, and the idea of growing another schwantz from my armpit does little to inspire taking secondary chemical risks.
> 
> Check out; https://circuitglobe.com/piezo-electric-transducer.html for some fairly easy to understand info on quartz crystal transducers

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## Gadgetboy

So here is a project I am busy with for my BB. I took the leap and stripped the thing down. My plan is to get it anodized in a deep blue and get the button plate done in a silver color. I took a drive out to Astro Anodizing in Sebenza today but they could not help me as the magnets that are attached to the frame are still in place. Good news is they have the color scheme I want and can do it for relatively cheap once the magnets have been removed. Now the mission begins by trying to get these things out. I have tried soaking them in Acetone thinking they are glued down, I have heated it up with a hairdryer and the tip of the soldering iron but still they will not budge.
I'm not to concerned about damaging them as they are relatively cheap to replace. Has anyone perhaps done something similar? My next step is to try drill them out.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Gadgetboy said:


> So here is a project I am busy with for my BB. I took the leap and stripped the thing down. My plan is to get it anodized in a deep blue and get the button plate done in a silver color. I took a drive out to Astro Anodizing in Sebenza today but they could not help me as the magnets that are attached to the frame are still in place. Good news is they have the color scheme I want and can do it for relatively cheap once the magnets have been removed. Now the mission begins by trying to get these things out. I have tried soaking them in Acetone thinking they are glued down, I have heated it up with a hairdryer and the tip of the soldering iron but still they will not budge.
> I'm not to concerned about damaging them as they are relatively cheap to replace. Has anyone perhaps done something similar? My next step is to try drill them out.



Sounds like a great project 
Are you using Astra in Sebenza? ... If so, they're fantastic ... I've used them before to anodize some bike parts

As to your magnet removal ... Good luck with drilling them ... they're as tough as nails, and you have more chance of drillind a piece of tool steel than one of them ... (_assuming they're rare earth magnets that is? ... the most common being a sintering of neodymium, iron, and boron_).

Your best bet would be to somehow apply heat *directly to/on the magnet*, with the intention of breaking down the glue / epoxy holding it / them in place. The heat will also destroy them as magnets, and you'll be left with a piece of demagnetised sintered metal.
You can get new ones from Sabel Magnetics in Orange Grove

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## Dela Rey Steyn

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Sounds like a great project
> Are you using Astra in Sebenza? ... If so, they're fantastic ... I've used them before to anodize some bike parts
> 
> As to your magnet removal ... Good luck with drilling them ... they're as tough as nails, and you have more chance of drillind a piece of tool steel than one of them ... (_assuming they're rare earth magnets that is? ... the most common being a sintering of neodymium, iron, and boron_).
> 
> Your best bet would be to somehow apply heat *directly to/on the magnet*, with the intention of breaking down the glue / epoxy holding it / them in place. The heat will also destroy them as magnets, and you'll be left with a piece of demagnetised sintered metal.
> You can get new ones from Sabel Magnetics in Orange Grove


Would a springloaded centre punch not crack/break it?

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Would a springloaded centre punch not crack/break it?


Good thinking! ... that may well do the trick  ... I'm assuming it's an aluminum case, (_based on the anodising_), so @Gadgetboy will have to be careful not to damage the casing.

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## Gadgetboy

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Would a springloaded centre punch not crack/break it?


I'm worried about damaging the casing. It is aluminium. I'm going to give it an acetone bath tonight and if that does not work I'll give the drill a bash. I'm not to worried about damaging them as they are chap as nails.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Gadgetboy said:


> I'm worried about damaging the casing. It is aluminium. I'm going to give it an acetone bath tonight and if that does not work I'll give the drill a bash. I'm not to worried about damaging them as they are chap as nails.



You're wasting your time with a drill, however the center punch may well crack the glue / epoxy, and I'd say it's worth a try, as would the soaking in acetone or other solvents ... btw ...the hammer requires lots of gentle taps as apposed a single blow with a 100 ton hydraulic hammer, the intention being to crack the glue/epoxy bonding

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## Dela Rey Steyn

One of these or similar should provide enough force to crack the magnet without hurting the case:

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## ARYANTO

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Soooooo ... I calculated the length of rod for the transducer at like 7Km or thereabouts , so even a quarter wavelength would have meant almost a kilometer long "probe", so I canned that and did a thumb suck of 75mm and decided to adjust the signal generators frequency as apposed to adjusting the length of "probe", and ... for those that don't know how the "_old fashioned method_" of finding the resonant frequency of a coil works ... an inductor, (or coil), draws maximum current at resonant frequency, (_as the current and voltage waveforms move from 90 degrees out of phase to perfectly in phase_).
> 
> So by placing one scope probe across a shunt resistor, and another across the transducer, one gets two scope traces, one of voltage, and one of current, and it's a fairly simple? exercise of adjusting the frequency until the current sine wave is at it's highest, which should at that point also be in phase with the voltage sine wave ... which kinda happened ... (give or take about 10 degrees ), and I carried on ... with zero happening in the beaker.
> I was pushing some 20Watts into the transducer at this point, so ... I continued increasing the voltage, expecting something ... anything? to start happening, (_at this point I should add that the amplifier was in bridge mode, meaning a potential 400Watt output with soft clipping ... more commonly known as DC at clipping_!).
> 
> So somewhere between the initial 20 and some 400Watts? into a device that was only good for some 50 ... things got just a tad warm, and started emulating Red Indian territory ... with a few smoke signals, (_thankfully from the cabling_), albeit that the transducer was a tad warm ... but that's not where it ends ...
> 
> Those that have cooked inductors or transformers know that the external temperature goes up further even after disconnecting the supply, due to the (MUCH HOTTER) core temperature requiring time to radiate outwards, and it's about that time that I picked up the transducer, and surprised my Domestic Executive with my command of, (four letter military), vocabulary ...
> {now thats already waaaaaaay too much incriminating information, so I'll now apply what the Americans refer to as the 5th amendment, and in SA, what we call "the Zuma", and shut up!}


I don't have a clue what you are saying but is this the way we're on now ?

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## Intuthu Kagesi

ARYANTO said:


> I don't have a clue what you are saying but is this the way we're on now ?



LMAO ... I have the attention span of a flea as you know, so it's "business as usual", same, same, concurrent multiple projects

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## Resistance

Dela Rey Steyn said:


> Would a springloaded centre punch not crack/break it?





Intuthu Kagesi said:


> You're wasting your time with a drill, however the center punch may well crack the glue / epoxy, and I'd say it's worth a try, as would the soaking in acetone or other solvents ... btw ...the hammer requires lots of gentle taps as apposed a single blow with a 100 ton hydraulic hammer, the intention being to crack the glue/epoxy bonding


I had a tough day I can't think right now.
I see if I can think of something over the weekend.


Gadgetboy said:


> I'm worried about damaging the casing. It is aluminium. I'm going to give it an acetone bath tonight and if that does not work I'll give the drill a bash. I'm not to worried about damaging them as they are chap as nails.

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## blujeenz

Gadgetboy said:


> I'm worried about damaging the casing. It is aluminium. I'm going to give it an acetone bath tonight and if that does not work I'll give the drill a bash. I'm not to worried about damaging them as they are chap as nails.



I wouldnt bother with solvents, Im thinking the mechanics of it getting down underneath the magnet are zero. The topmost melted glue layer will act as a barrier.
Id go straight to heat, probably a pencil torch on a corner to get the glue to release. It shouldnt affect the magnet and you should be able to lift it out with a metal ruler/bar.

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## Grand Guru

I think now I enough stands

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Grand Guru said:


> I think now I enough stands
> View attachment 222491



Well done! ... Those are brilliant ... Do you have a wood lathe?

O ... and next time  you make more, gimmie a shout, and I'll get a pack of these inserts for wood, retap them for M7*0.5, and swop you for the heatsinked 510 sockets you're using

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## Grand Guru

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Well done! ... Those are brilliant ... Do you have a wood lathe?
> 
> O ... and next time  you make more, gimmie a shout, and I'll get a pack of these inserts for wood, retap them for M7*0.5, and swop you for the heatsinked 510 sockets you're using


I’m bought the wood buns from a local hardware shop for around R30 each. A little fine sanding, drilling, spraying with black then a clear coat and voila! They costed less than the retail price for one and they look darn awesome on the shelf

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## Stew

Grand Guru said:


> I think now I enough stands
> View attachment 222491


Lovely.

Reactions: Agree 5 | Thanks 1


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## Resistance

Grand Guru said:


> I think now I enough stands
> View attachment 222491


They look like professional bowling balls. They look awesome!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

So once again, I am of "_limited pics_" ... sowwie  ... Once I get going, I get the job done, and pictures along the way generally only happen if they coincide with a coffee / snack break, (_clearly there weren't any with this job_).

So ... I have a friend who shall remain nameless for fear of recrimination, that has a Voopoo Drag that also had a pair of stripped 510 mounting screws. There were clearly a few previous attempts at repairs, as I had to dissolve the super glue and some other epoxy? off the inside of the unit, and remove remnants of some kind of self tapping screw? from one of the originally M2 fine holes.

After this had been done, I drilled and retapped the 510 socket to M3 fine, re soldered and reattached everything with new stainless M3 screws, and ... reassembled the unit.

For anyone reassembling one of these devices ... Fold a piece of stiff plastic cut to size, (_one of the A4 pieces used in laser printers for PCB positive manufacture will do the trick_), folded over the case on the switch side, to enable the switches to slide easily into place without binding 

It took about 4 failed attempts before I worked out the folded plastic trick  ... and no smart comments about an idiot doing the same thing repeatedly, expecting a different result please 

O ... and Yes! ... it needs a bloody good external cleaning / buffing urgently, however I'm leaving that for the owner to tackle

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> So once again, I am of "_limited pics_" ... sowwie  ... Once I get going, I get the job done, and pictures along the way generally only happen if they coincide with a coffee / snack break, (_clearly there weren't any with this job_).
> 
> So ... I have a friend who shall remain nameless for fear of recrimination, that has a Voopoo Drag that also had a pair of stripped 510 mounting screws. There were clearly a few previous attempts at repairs, as I had to dissolve the super glue and some other epoxy? off the inside of the unit, and remove remnants of some kind of self tapping screw? from one of the originally M2 fine holes.
> 
> After this had been done, I drilled and retapped the 510 socket to M3 fine, re soldered and reattached everything with new stainless M3 screws, and ... reassembled the unit.
> 
> For anyone reassembling one of these devices ... Fold a piece of stiff plastic cut to size, (_one of the A4 pieces used in laser printers for PCB positive manufacture will do the trick_), folded over the case on the switch side, to enable the switches to slide easily into place without binding
> 
> It took about 4 failed attempts before I worked out the folded plastic trick  ... and no smart comments about an idiot doing the same thing repeatedly, expecting a different result please
> 
> O ... and Yes! ... it needs a bloody good external cleaning / buffing urgently, however I'm leaving that for the owner to tackle
> 
> View attachment 222927


Wow you fixed our friend's mod. Cool!...
The pic qualifies you for another beer with our friend. I'll drink tea to that!

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## Resistance

Project mail from @Hakhan 
All will be revealed in due time...

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> Project mail from @Hakhan
> All will be revealed in due time...
> View attachment 222992



Hey heeeeey ... I think I know what that is  
I'm looking forward to seeing that lil' beastie perform

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Hey heeeeey ... I think I know what that is
> I'm looking forward to seeing that lil' beastie perform


With your help of course. You are indeed the creator of a certain thingymabob I am interested in.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> With your help of course. You are indeed the creator of a certain thingymabob I am interested in.


With the greatest of pleasure bud  

Petrolheads refer to vehicles with seriously improved mechanicals as "Sleepers", we're going to have to invent a term for doing the same with old school mods and tanks

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> With the greatest of pleasure bud
> 
> Petrolheads refer to vehicles with seriously improved mechanicals as "Sleepers", we're going to have to invent a term for doing the same with old school mods and tanks


I got a lot.of words ,but it's just words. We need to vote on this.
A term we also use for cars that's already used. We jus say "ge-mod".
https://thesaurus.yourdictionary.com/modification

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## Resistance

Resistance said:


> I got a lot.of words ,but it's just words. We need to vote on this.
> A term we also use for cars that's already used. We jus say "ge-mod".
> https://thesaurus.yourdictionary.com/modification


How about touched. For touched up. Touch by a a skillset?
Hey @Intuthu Kagesi did you touch that mod?

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> How about touched. For touched up. Touch by a a skillset?
> Hey @Intuthu Kagesi did you touch that mod?



Maybe Sleeper is a good name, as thinking back to that Tesla I did ... It's such a diminutive looking mod, but man that thing kicks like a mule now, it's certainly a wolf in sheeps clothing

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## Resistance

I'll sleep on it

Reactions: Funny 4


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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Maybe Sleeper is a good name, as thinking back to that Tesla I did ... It's such a diminutive looking mod, but man that thing kicks like a mule now, it's certainly a wolf in sheeps clothing



Ja we stick to car terminology while I take a puff on my RatMod!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Resistance said:


> Ja we stick to car terminology while I take a puff on my RatMod!



I really like that! 
Outside of the Petrolhead definition of a Rat rod, (_a mechanically customised *car* with a deliberately worn-down, or unfinished outward appearance_), with respect to the Chinese Calendar ... I'm a Metal Rat

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## Stranger

@Intuthu Kagesi bike

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stranger said:


> @Intuthu Kagesi bike


On some perverse level, it's pretty kewl ... The American way - Brute force and ignorance

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## Resistance

Stranger said:


> @Intuthu Kagesi bike


I need that Corona helmet!

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## blujeenz

Ive been busy this last week building a KAP rig (kite aerial photography).
Long story short, new fridge arrived and I saved the plastic thinking it would make a decent box kite.
So, box kite built, checking it out and pondering, I stuck a keychain spy cam on it... and down the rabbit hole I went. 



While "netting" I checked out ways to put a camera on the kite, turned out a picavet suspension rig is the way to go, back to the garage to bend some 3mm alu strip. The picavet cross I found on thingiverse so that got printed in solid ABS.
Then I remembered how hard a bamboo and black bag kite pulled that I made back in the mid '80's, so next a proper kite reel got put together.
Its called a strato spool, very nice with body strap, reel lock and a brake, I had a piece of 16mm thick mdf which defs looked like a strato spool to me. 
Tadaa. The camera is a Canon powershot A480 from 2009 and it runs a CHDK script to take pics every 30 seconds till the batteries run flat, an hour give or take.




Im no stranger to aerial photos, back in the day (July 2000) I rubber banded a kodak instamatic 110 to a rc plane, the 4Star40. pics for the record. 

The field I flew at was water logged in winter so I made a pair of water ski's out of countertop formica.




Aerial view of the field, Nelson's Creek on the outskirts of Paarl.



Needless to say I didnt finish the full 26 exp roll, it was very tedious because I had to kill the engine at altitude to stop motion blur, land the plane dead stick, advance the film slide, start and take off again. 

With KAP its a whole other game, 120 shots in an hour @ 30 secs per shot and I dont need to print them all out to see which are keepers.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Well done man! ... This is soooooo cool, that A480 is no slouch as cameras go ... It's a 10Mpixel camera with digital zoom nogal, perfect for stealth close ups of your neighbours topless tanning  ... I can see where this is going to too ... next a wireless live video feed, followed by a drone

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## Stranger

Ok, this is off topic.

Put off road tyres on my street bike .

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stranger said:


> Ok, this is off topic.
> 
> Put off road tyres on my street bike .



Very nice bike 

If this post happened 20 odd years ago, I would have suggested you see a shrink for even suggesting them, let alone actually fitting them, however based on the current state of our roads, that's probably a wise move 

As to projects ... If you physically fitted them, then it's a certainly a project of note ... If you rode it to the local bike tyre fitment shop, erm  ... not so much

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## Stranger

Thanks and .... erm not so much. However the testing was done all by myself. I have clever suspension that works off a button, much better than setting it myself like I used to on my K1200s

Tyre tech has moved on and the manufacturers know that even adventure bikes need to ride on the tar to get to the dirt, hence this tyre. Designed for both. They are not true off road like a knobbly, but not a road bike tyre either. I have " normal" "comfy" and " sport" mode. So normal and sport for the rd and comfy for the gravel. Doubt I will manage Sani pass but hey on a sunny dry day, you never know.

So my weekend project was " evaluation" just as important as the physical work, don't you think ?

Once again, you speak to single minded guys and they say you are mad to put those tyres on a street bike. Makes me so happy to be right for a change. These things are insanely good on the road. Just for reference Metzler Karroo street.

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## Stew

@Intuthu Kagesi @Stranger I used to do that every Thursday night before race weekend, put on last races old tyres for practice Friday, practice Friday, Friday night, put on a brand new set for Saturday race day, then Sunday take my race tyres off for the following race weekend and put on my road tyres. All manually done on my Suzuki 1100 GSX.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stranger said:


> Thanks and .... erm not so much. However the testing was done all by myself. I have clever suspension that works off a button, much better than setting it myself like I used to on my K1200s
> 
> Tyre tech has moved on and the manufacturers know that even adventure bikes need to ride on the tar to get to the dirt, hence this tyre. Designed for both. They are not true off road like a knobbly, but not a road bike tyre either. I have " normal" "comfy" and " sport" mode. So normal and sport for the rd and comfy for the gravel. Doubt I will manage Sani pass but hey on a sunny dry day, you never know.
> 
> So my weekend project was " evaluation" just as important as the physical work, don't you think ?
> 
> Once again, you speak to single minded guys and they say you are mad to put those tyres on a street bike. Makes me so happy to be right for a change. These things are insanely good on the road. Just for reference Metzler Karroo street.



A racing mate of mine has them fitted to his non racing / road going F800GS, and he swears by them ... I can't comment, as I would probably be hung and quartered if I even suggested putting em' on a Ducati ... that said ... all my offroad bikes are road registered, (_it's our illustrious government trying to keep tabs on who owns what and sting em' for annual licencing_), so; I may well take your cue, and pop a set onto one of my 450's and use it on the road as well 

As to your comment about weekend projects and evaluation ... You're 60, and have earned your stripes dammit, so yes! ... it is whatever you say it is

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stew said:


> @Intuthu Kagesi @Stranger I used to do that every Thursday night before race weekend, put on last races old tyres for practice Friday, practice Friday, Friday night, put on a brand new set for Saturday race day, then Sunday take my race tyres off for the following race weekend and put on my road tyres. All manually done on my Suzuki 1100 GSX.


Good for you! ... it's a schlep of note, and certainly worthy of the title "weekend project", especially so when it involved a bar of green sunlight soap and two good ol' fashioned tyre levers

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## SmokeyJoe

Stranger said:


> Ok, this is off topic.
> 
> Put off road tyres on my street bike .



But why? 

Disclaimer: I dont know anything about bikes. Ive ridden them a lot. But i dont understand the reasoning unless you plan to go off road. Going off road then poses other questions such as does your bike have enough torque to navigate rough terrain. Please Im not being funny, im really very interested.

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## Resistance

Stranger said:


> Thanks and .... erm not so much. However the testing was done all by myself. I have clever suspension that works off a button, much better than setting it myself like I used to on my K1200s
> 
> Tyre tech has moved on and the manufacturers know that even adventure bikes need to ride on the tar to get to the dirt, hence this tyre. Designed for both. They are not true off road like a knobbly, but not a road bike tyre either. I have " normal" "comfy" and " sport" mode. So normal and sport for the rd and comfy for the gravel. Doubt I will manage Sani pass but hey on a sunny dry day, you never know.
> 
> So my weekend project was " evaluation" just as important as the physical work, don't you think ?
> 
> Once again, you speak to single minded guys and they say you are mad to put those tyres on a street bike. Makes me so happy to be right for a change. These things are insanely good on the road. Just for reference Metzler Karroo street.


Dude of the tyre works for your driving pleasure then it's not a fail at all. Hand made project ,maybe not but project it is In my books. I like mad!

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Good for you! ... it's a schlep of note, and certainly worthy of the title "weekend project", especially so when it involved a bar of green sunlight soap and two good ol' fashioned tyre levers



Well I have changed car tyres on mags by hand. That is a project I wouldn't recommend to anyone although I did it multiple times. I'll find some of that pics and post it if I do.

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## Room Fogger

SmokeyJoe said:


> But why?
> 
> Disclaimer: I dont know anything about bikes. Ive ridden them a lot. But i dont understand the reasoning unless you plan to go off road. Going off road then poses other questions such as does your bike have enough torque to navigate rough terrain. Please Im not being funny, im really very interested.


When I still rode I sometimes came to a board that said pub and a arrow, and a dirt road, and thirst and inquisitiveness is a great motivator, and normal road tires didn’t always work out that well. Even in some dirt/ grass parking areas. So you have the compromise of the best of both worlds, I did off-road most my life, road only last couple of years before I got rid of my mill stone, and unfortunately the bikes had to go as well

If you don’t overdo it on the road, no super speed freak show on the tar those still give good enough/great handling, but if you take it relatively easy off tar it opens up new possibilities to explore with a bit more ease and confidence, most bikes can handle it, just auto split braking system/abs can be a pain with sand, therefore calm and aware. They can take you only so far though, it’s mot a mx setup, but it still gives a comfortable trip on tar.

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## Raindance

Stranger said:


> Ok, this is off topic.
> 
> Put off road tyres on my street bike .


Had those on the AT as well, never pushed it through corners like a road bike but it did slide when you came in to hot unlike knoblies that just let go with no warning. Damn, can not remember the name of the tire now. sounds exotic though. Old age, damn you!

Regards

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## Intuthu Kagesi

SmokeyJoe said:


> But why?
> 
> Disclaimer: I dont know anything about bikes. Ive ridden them a lot. But i dont understand the reasoning unless you plan to go off road. Going off road then poses other questions such as does your bike have enough torque to navigate rough terrain. Please Im not being funny, im really very interested.



I can't speak for @Stranger as to why he chose to replace his tyres, however I can tell you that tyre technology has improved in leaps and bounds over the past 20 years, to which we now have what are referred to as "Dual Purpose tyres", (as Stranger fitted). 
Their bias is admittedly towards off road use when compared to modern road going tyres. however they would our perform a road going tyre as well as an off road tyre of as little as 10 years ago. 
These tyres have become popular as Dual Sport and Adventure Motorcycles have come of age, (_basically what you may remember as a "road scrambler", but on steroids_), and given the state of our shoddy roads probably make more sense than a true "modern road tyre, which would be very similar to a full race tyre of a few years back 
As to the torque a modern bike power outputs, again I can't speak for Strangers bike, however I have a couple of Yamaha offroad 450's that output almost 60BHp, along with some 48Nm of torque ... that's close to what a 1600cc car of 10 years ago was outputting as power goes, however these bikes weigh in at a little over 100Kgs, unlike the 1500+Kgs of a medium sized car, so there's no shortage of power ... O ... and my 450's rev up to 12000RPM

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## Raindance

Anakee or something like that, just can not let go when forgetting a name. Pictures are not helping either.




Regards

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Raindance said:


> Anakee or something like that, just can not let go when forgetting a name. Pictures are not helping either.
> 
> View attachment 223878
> 
> 
> Regards



You're quite right, they're Michelin Anakee's

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## Stranger

That R1200R has around 110 BHP and 115 Nm. Top end around 220kmh. That is enough for me these days, my time at 300+ is done.

@Room Fogger has it right though. I used to own a Moto Guzzi SP 100 sport with the upswept pipe. This in effect gave me a little rd clearance and I had many a trip to the Drackensburg where I had no hesitation taking the bike and the missus on the back down a gravel rd.

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

Stranger said:


> I had no hesitation taking the bike and the missus on the back down a gravel rd.



With an airbag on the back, you can't go wrong

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stranger said:


> That R1200R has around 110 BHP and 115 Nm. Top end around 220kmh. That is enough for me these days, my time at 300+ is done.
> 
> @Room Fogger has it right though. I used to own a Moto Guzzi SP 100 sport with the upswept pipe. This in effect gave me a little rd clearance and I had many a trip to the Drackensburg where I had no hesitation taking the bike and the missus on the back down a gravel rd.



You've had some notable machinery over the years I see ... I used to drool over both the SP100 and the Mk2 Le Mans back in ye day ... both beautiful bikes, even by todays standards.

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## Stranger

This one was epic.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 6


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## Stranger

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> With an airbag on the back, you can't go wrong



She has got proper airbags

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Stranger said:


> This one was epic.
> View attachment 223967



Another magic machine  
You're brave taking a pillion around Swartkops, that track is tighter than a frogs butt 6 meters underwater

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## DarthBranMuffin

Filling up the coil supply again...

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## Resistance

I put up shelving yesterday.

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## DarthBranMuffin

Resistance said:


> I put up shelving yesterday.
> View attachment 224942



Where's the vape shelve, next weekend?

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## Resistance

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Where's the vape shelve, next weekend?


That was supposed to be the vape shelve
All repurposed till I can build some cupboards

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## Raindance

Condenser sorted, time to replace the pressure cooker with something more suitable.

Scary seeing the crap left behind in the pot after distilling our tap water.

Regards

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> View attachment 229932
> 
> View attachment 229931
> 
> Condenser sorted, time to replace the pressure cooker with something more suitable.
> 
> Scary seeing the crap left behind in the pot after distilling our tap water.
> 
> Regards


Awesome. What made you decide to do a vertical tube.

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## Raindance

Resistance said:


> Awesome. What made you decide to do a vertical tube.


The more horizontal the tubes the slower the flow and the more the heads, hearts and tails mix with each other. That is if I were to ever make proper moonshine.

Regards

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> The more horizontal the tubes the slower the flow and the more the heads, hearts and tails mix with each other. That is if I were to ever make proper moonshine.
> 
> Regards



So we'll start this weekend then?

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## Raindance

All holes closed and sealed tight, feel like a gynaecologist now....

Regards

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## Stew

@Raindance solder or silver solder?

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> View attachment 230232
> 
> View attachment 230233
> 
> All holes closed and sealed tight, feel like a gynaecologist now....
> 
> Regards


Your becoming a proper surgeon now. Nice.

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## blujeenz

Stew said:


> @Raindance solder or silver solder?


I was thinking the same thing, lead based is a "no no" for stills.
That def's looks like plumbers solder to me.

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## Raindance

blujeenz said:


> I was thinking the same thing, lead based is a "no no" for stills.
> That def's looks like plumbers solder to me.


Yip, its the tin, copper and silver stuff. 

Regards

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 1


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## Grand Guru



Reactions: Winner 1 | Funny 9


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## Resistance

Grand Guru said:


> View attachment 230508



I showed this at work. They say you got skills .

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## Stranger

Got two of these , so it is up in the loft tomorrow.

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## Resistance

Stranger said:


> Got two of these , so it is up in the loft tomorrow.



You got a solar panel?

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## AKS

Finally got my hands on a gen3 dual.
Was in pretty rough shape,but cheap so couldn’t complain.Decided to strip it.

Before






After:


Fingerprint magnet,but happy with the result.
Have a good weekend all.

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## Stranger

Nah, these are the TSE controllers for the normal geyser. I actually have two geysers in my house as there is a small flatlet. I previously installed a TSE onto my hybrid system. I have a 200 L solar geyser on the roof which feeds my 150 L in the roof. Now I am going to install one in the flatlet and one in my rental townhouse.
Brilliant piece of kit by the way, very easy to install and saves me plenty.

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## Grand Guru

AKS said:


> Finally got my hands on a gen3 dual.
> Was in pretty rough shape,but cheap so couldn’t complain.Decided to strip it.
> 
> Before
> View attachment 230898
> 
> 
> View attachment 230899
> 
> 
> After:
> View attachment 230900
> 
> Fingerprint magnet,but happy with the result.
> Have a good weekend all.


That's a great job indeed!

Reactions: Agree 4 | Thanks 1


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## Grand Guru

Stranger said:


> Nah, these are the TSE controllers for the normal geyser. I actually have two geysers in my house as there is a small flatlet. I previously installed a TSE onto my hybrid system. I have a 200 L solar geyser on the roof which feeds my 150 L in the roof. Now I am going to install one in the flatlet and one in my rental townhouse.
> Brilliant piece of kit by the way, very easy to install and saves me plenty.


After a long search, I managed to lay my hands on 2 of them in the last few months. The one is in a decent condition but the other is closer to 5/10 with scratches all over the side panels and was considering to strip/polish it too. Some advice will be highly appreciated.

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## Resistance

Stranger said:


> Nah, these are the TSE controllers for the normal geyser. I actually have two geysers in my house as there is a small flatlet. I previously installed a TSE onto my hybrid system. I have a 200 L solar geyser on the roof which feeds my 150 L in the roof. Now I am going to install one in the flatlet and one in my rental townhouse.
> Brilliant piece of kit by the way, very easy to install and saves me plenty.



Well all I can say is it works a treat. I don't have one where I reside now ,but had one in the previous flat. Summertime we didn't need to switch it on at all and winter time we had it on at a minimum.

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## Resistance

AKS said:


> Finally got my hands on a gen3 dual.
> Was in pretty rough shape,but cheap so couldn’t complain.Decided to strip it.
> 
> Before
> View attachment 230898
> 
> 
> View attachment 230899
> 
> 
> After:
> View attachment 230900
> 
> Fingerprint magnet,but happy with the result.
> Have a good weekend all.



Good job. I suggest a clear coat or an oleophobic coating like this.

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## AKS

Resistance said:


> Good job. I suggest a clear coat or an oleophobic coating like this.
> View attachment 230945


Thanks @Resistance ,will definitely look into it.

Reactions: Like 3


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## AKS

Grand Guru said:


> After a long search, I managed to lay my hands on 2 of them in the last few months. The one is in a decent condition but the other is closer to 5/10 with scratches all over the side panels and was considering to strip/polish it too. Some advice will be highly appreciated.


The good thing about the process is that the mod disassembly is quite simple,and the internals can be removed as one piece.
Best video I found was this russian one.
(Disassembly starts at around 3:50 I think)


Then just paint stripper gel,followed by fine grit sandpaper and fine steel wool. Lastly I used a scouring pad.
(I forget who,someone on the forum suggested the pad,and it works really well. Thanks someone.)
Note: Take care when removing the plastic screen cover. The two clips are tiny and I’ve seen on some forums they can snap off if one is not careful.
Then finally,like I said,fingerprints and fine scratches will be an issue.
@Resistance posted a good possible remedy above.
Hope it helps!

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## Resistance

AKS said:


> The good thing about the process is that the mod disassembly is quite simple,and the internals can be removed as one piece.
> Best video I found was this russian one.
> (Disassembly starts at around 3:50 I think)
> 
> 
> Then just paint stripper gel,followed by fine grit sandpaper and fine steel wool. Lastly I used a scouring pad.
> (I forget who,someone on the forum suggested the pad,and it works really well. Thanks someone.)
> Note: Take care when removing the plastic screen cover. The two clips are tiny and I’ve seen on some forums they can snap off if one is not careful.
> Then finally,like I said,fingerprints and fine scratches will be an issue.
> @Resistance posted a good possible remedy above.
> Hope it helps!



I know there's also a car polish with this property. I can't recall. Think Meguiar's makes it. The stuff I posted is oleophobic treatment used on cell phone screens so it might be available locally at a cell phone repair shop.

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## Raindance

Version 0.979547. Just a few more improvements and V1.0 will be a reality. Promise. Basically build about four setups, each time stuff hits the fan and back to the drawing board.

Regards

Reactions: Winner 6


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## blujeenz

Raindance said:


> View attachment 230979
> 
> Version 0.979547. Just a few more improvements and V1.0 will be a reality. Promise. Basically build about four setups, each time stuff hits the fan and back to the drawing board.
> 
> Regards


You'll probably get a better copper price if you register as a "builder".

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 5


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## Raindance

blujeenz said:


> You'll probably get a better copper price if you register as a "builder".


Salvaged what I could from a 150l geyser. Down to 23 litres now. Perfect actually. Spent all day building a base for it.


Just a few tweaks still needed.

Regards

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Salvaged what I could from a 150l geyser. Down to 23 litres now. Perfect actually. Spent all day building a base for it.
> View attachment 231022
> 
> Just a few tweaks still needed.
> 
> Regards


Just awesome!...

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## Gadgetboy

For all you DIY-ers and general handymen and woman, Have you seen something like this before?
I think its freakin awesome and I cant believe I have not seen this before.

Reactions: Like 4


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## blujeenz

Gadgetboy said:


> For all you DIY-ers and general handymen and woman, Have you seen something like this before?
> I think its freakin awesome and I cant believe I have not seen this before.



Never seen them, good luck finding them in SA.
BigClive did a review and found that the solder didnt penetrate to the core.
I'll stick with the traditional method thanks.

Reactions: Like 4


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## Gadgetboy

blujeenz said:


> Never seen them, good luck finding them in SA.
> BigClive did a review and found that the solder didnt penetrate to the core.
> I'll stick with the traditional method thanks.



Takealot has them for sale, That is where I saw it. Not badly priced as well. I would like to give them a try.
https://www.takealot.com/50-pieces-...fH5njQUc6_cTnJ4LUusaAvKtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

As @blujeenz says they don't penetrate very well. Big Clive says they could be useful in an emergency or in a low current application.

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## Gadgetboy

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> As @blujeenz says they don't penetrate very well. Big Clive says they could be useful in an emergency or in a low current application.
> 
> View attachment 231089





Very interesting, Thanks for the video. Like he said, For thicker gauge wire they might not work but from smaller gauge and lower current wires they work.
Me being a perfectionist I like the simplicity and look of it. When joining wires like this there is almost always they "Floppiness" in the wire.
But either way as long as the wires stick and it works I am a happy man...

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## Raindance

I may have gotten a bit carried away...

But it is finished now. Oh wait...

Regards

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## AKS

Raindance said:


> View attachment 231115
> 
> I may have gotten a bit carried away...
> 
> But it is finished now. Oh wait...
> 
> Regards


It’s a thing of beauty.

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> View attachment 231115
> 
> I may have gotten a bit carried away...
> 
> But it is finished now. Oh wait...
> 
> Regards


Now it's on!

Officer this is my new desalination plant.
Im all for renewable energy and world peace.

Reactions: Funny 6


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## Resistance

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> As @blujeenz says they don't penetrate very well. Big Clive says they could be useful in an emergency or in a low current application.
> 
> View attachment 231089





Gadgetboy said:


> Very interesting, Thanks for the video. Like he said, For thicker gauge wire they might not work but from smaller gauge and lower current wires they work.
> Me being a perfectionist I like the simplicity and look of it. When joining wires like this there is almost always they "Floppiness" in the wire.
> But either way as long as the wires stick and it works I am a happy man...





blujeenz said:


> Never seen them, good luck finding them in SA.
> BigClive did a review and found that the solder didnt penetrate to the core.
> I'll stick with the traditional method thanks.



I've seen it before. 
My take is, it's for someone not skilled at soldering. And where a quick fix might be needed till it can be properly repaired.

So it's an option in the toolbox.

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## Raindance

It has been time to replace the old wendyhouse I have not been using as a garden tool shed for about a decade so this is what finally replaced it. Really chuffed with the outcome.

Regards

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## AKS

Raindance said:


> View attachment 231633
> View attachment 231634
> View attachment 231635
> View attachment 231636
> View attachment 231637
> View attachment 231638
> View attachment 231639
> View attachment 231640
> 
> It has been time to replace the old wendyhouse I have not been using as a garden tool shed for about a decade so this is what finally replaced it. Really chuffed with the outcome.
> 
> Regards


Well done,really nice. Love the look of it.

Reactions: Agree 4 | Thanks 1


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## SmokeyJoe

Raindance said:


> View attachment 231633
> View attachment 231634
> View attachment 231635
> View attachment 231636
> View attachment 231637
> View attachment 231638
> View attachment 231639
> View attachment 231640
> 
> It has been time to replace the old wendyhouse I have not been using as a garden tool shed for about a decade so this is what finally replaced it. Really chuffed with the outcome.
> 
> Regards


Damn bud. Amazing job!

Reactions: Agree 7 | Thanks 1


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## SmokeyJoe

Really like how you did the support structure with the poles

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## Raindance

Thanks guys, been Youtubing boatbuilders (Acorn to Arabella and Salt and Tar) and was really itching to push my DIY skills to the next level. I am an impatient person so forcing myself to slow down and just focusing on the current little task has really been a growth experience to me.

Regards

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Thanks guys, been Youtubing boatbuilders (Acorn to Arabella and Salt and Tar) and was really itching to push my DIY skills to the next level. I am an impatient person so forcing myself to slow down and just focusing on the current little task has really been a growth experience to me.
> 
> Regards



So when do we start using it for the intended use???
I mean the copper pot would make awesome rustic furniture inside.

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> View attachment 231633
> View attachment 231634
> View attachment 231635
> View attachment 231636
> View attachment 231637
> View attachment 231638
> View attachment 231639
> View attachment 231640
> 
> It has been time to replace the old wendyhouse I have not been using as a garden tool shed for about a decade so this is what finally replaced it. Really chuffed with the outcome.
> 
> Regards


Honestly you did a very good job and I like the ossewa look.

Reactions: Agree 3 | Thanks 1


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## Raindance

Resistance said:


> So when do we start using it for the intended use???
> I mean the copper pot would make awesome rustic furniture inside.


Talking about the copper pot, been drinking some really awesome pure water after Friday's run.




Not a hint of chlorine anywhere in sight.

About time to go back to work after first time ever four weeks leave. Good retirement practice, tough at this rate my pension seems a little inadequate...

Regards

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Talking about the copper pot, been drinking some really awesome pure water after Friday's run.
> View attachment 231650
> 
> View attachment 231649
> 
> Not a hint of chlorine anywhere in sight.
> 
> About time to go back to work after first time ever four weeks leave. Good retirement practice, tough at this rate my pension seems a little inadequate...
> 
> Regards



The glass viewing chimney cap reducer thing...


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## Raindance

Resistance said:


> The glass viewing chimney cap reducer thing...


Consol preservative bottle. I also watch the microwave and washing machine. Better than Netflix.

Regards

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## Resistance

Raindance said:


> Consol preservative bottle. I also watch the microwave and washing machine. Better than Netflix.
> 
> Regards

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## blujeenz

Struggling to peel off the kitchen lino prior to tiling, tried heatgun, paint scrapers, sharpened spade etc.
Anybody have a better plan, perhaps @Resistance ?

Reactions: Like 3


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## SmokeyJoe

blujeenz said:


> Struggling to peel off the kitchen lino prior to tiling, tried heatgun, paint scrapers, sharpened spade etc.
> Anybody have a better plan, perhaps @Resistance ?
> View attachment 232168


Is it that stick on tile look crap?

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## blujeenz

SmokeyJoe said:


> Is it that stick on tile look crap?


Nope, just a line I cut with a knife to make removing sections easier.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Struggling to peel off the kitchen lino prior to tiling, tried heatgun, paint scrapers, sharpened spade etc.
> Anybody have a better plan, perhaps @Resistance ?
> View attachment 232168


The only thing that would work is a solvent like petrol, thinners etc. Something that will break the bonds. Or you can try this,
https://www.ctm.co.za/glue-remover-1l-product.html
I haven't used it ,but I highly recommend TFC products. Whatever products I've used of theirs worked.

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## Resistance

You could even try Duran paint stripper.
It should also work.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Nope, just a line I cut with a knife to make removing sections easier.



I would scar the lino with a cutting knife and use a onion bag to spread it over so it can penetrate and start softening the lino.
It's still going to be a tough job, but easier.


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> You could even try Duran paint stripper.
> It should also work.


I tried a water based paint stripper last nite and while it works fairly well, it leaves a gummy residue behind that needed a lot of scrubbing with soap to remove.
Im concerned that the tile adhesive might not stick to that area now.
I also tried a towel soaked in water to soften the paper bits but it wasn't very effective.
Guess its a trip to CTM for some adhesive remover.

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## Dela Rey Steyn



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## blujeenz

Dela Rey Steyn said:


>



Thanks for the info, I had YT'd lino removal and tried most of the methods.
Best so far is @Resistance suggestion of TFC glue remover, doesnt clean as thoroughly as paint stripper, but theres less leftover residue.
The pong is something else though.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> I tried a water based paint stripper last nite and while it works fairly well, it leaves a gummy residue behind that needed a lot of scrubbing with soap to remove.
> Im concerned that the tile adhesive might not stick to that area now.
> I also tried a towel soaked in water to soften the paper bits but it wasn't very effective.
> Guess its a trip to CTM for some adhesive remover.



Then all you do is chip the floor and get alcolin bonding liquid. Mix bonding liquid with tile adhesive or cement and a very little water and slurry the floor. 
Best bonding liquid is alcolin don't settle for anything less.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Thanks for the info, I had YT'd lino removal and tried most of the methods.
> Best so far is @Resistance suggestion of TFC glue remover, doesnt clean as thoroughly as paint stripper, but theres less leftover residue.
> The pong is something else though.



Forgot to add. Water is there to dilute it a little and you know when your slurry is perfect when it has a blue tinge. 
You can tile directly to the slurried floor so paint it as you go along or slurry the floor and let it dry. Then dilute the bonding liquid in water and mix tile adhesive. Then tile.

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## blujeenz

My buksie way of grouting, bigger bottle is for larger areas, dont know if there's a pro tool for the job, but I found the squeegee method very messy with lots of sponging afterwards.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> My buksie way of grouting, bigger bottle is for larger areas, dont know if there's a pro tool for the job, but I found the squeegee method very messy with lots of sponging afterwards.
> View attachment 232762



Spackle tool!

Reactions: Like 2


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> My buksie way of grouting, bigger bottle is for larger areas, dont know if there's a pro tool for the job, but I found the squeegee method very messy with lots of sponging afterwards.
> View attachment 232762


Looks good bro.

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Spackle tool!


I actually meant the grout bottle, like perhaps there's a similar version like a caulking gun.
I'm using various scrapers/ spackle tools, but find a silicone rubber spatula works best.
I'll probably try using the silicone tube from my caulking gun when its empty.

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## Resistance

Post a link please

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## ARYANTO

Friday project - getting new security sliding gates installed

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## Resistance

ARYANTO said:


> Friday project - getting new security sliding gates installed
> View attachment 234374



What's Chow chows name?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Intuthu Kagesi

Shooooweeeeee you guys have been busy whilst I was AWOL / on sabbatical, and I almost feel a little inadequate posting my Sunday post braai garage tinkering project 
_
Not being really big on wood projects, decided on a simple stand for my dripper tanks earlier ... I cut, planed, drilled and sanded a piece of oak, cut a few pieces of 8mm copper tubing and epoxied them into the holes, and then tapped them to M7 Superfine, and now my drippers have a home too ;



_

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## LeislB

@Intuthu Kagesi where did you get that tap?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Intuthu Kagesi

LeislB said:


> @Intuthu Kagesi where did you get that tap?



M7 * 0.5 (Super fine) are like Hen's teeth in SA .. I replaced a broken one from THT Tools in Boksburg a few months back, (they come as a set of first and second tap and cost around R350 as I recall) ... else you can try Daniel @ MetroTool on (011) 822-2130. 
You'll also need a decent 6.5mm drill bit that either of them can supply

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## blujeenz

Just finished my Eagle 66 oil can style copy. I wanted something better than the generic plastic squeezer, always looking for the cap.
I used 2 black oxide allen screws but the top one lost its oxide when brazing, hence the odd looking 1 black and 1 silver.
Thats a 1.0mm mig tip for the nozzle soldered onto a short section of brake tubing.



Anyhow, didnt want to buy a full length of 50mm dia Al tubing so I figured I'd just cast everything.
My first foray into sodium silicate sand cores.



Something went wrong with the 2nd casting of the cap and valve body, riser didnt get any flow and the result was shrinkage and a swiss cheese like porosity.




A view inside of the valve body which uses 2 small bearing balls as the check valves.



A cut away from the pdf.



Final iteration, just looking for a suitable plunger spring, 7mm od x 15mm long.
Not having much luck bending music wire.

EDIT: used a spring from a carbon brush for an electric drill, works just fine.

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## Christos

blujeenz said:


> Just finished my Eagle 66 oil can style copy. I wanted something better than the generic plastic squeezer, always looking for the cap.
> I used 2 black oxide allen screws but the top one lost its oxide when brazing, hence the odd looking 1 black and 1 silver.
> Thats a 1.0mm mig tip for the nozzle soldered onto a short section of brake tubing.
> View attachment 238477
> 
> 
> Anyhow, didnt want to buy a full length of 50mm dia Al tubing so I figured I'd just cast everything.
> My first foray into sodium silicate sand cores.
> View attachment 238476
> 
> 
> Something went wrong with the 2nd casting of the cap and valve body, riser didnt get any flow and the result was shrinkage and a swiss cheese like porosity.
> 
> View attachment 238478
> 
> 
> A view inside of the valve body which uses 2 small bearing balls as the check valves.
> View attachment 238479
> 
> 
> A cut away from the pdf.
> View attachment 238480


Very impressive! 
One day when I’m older and have the time!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> Just finished my Eagle 66 oil can style copy. I wanted something better than the generic plastic squeezer, always looking for the cap.
> I used 2 black oxide allen screws but the top one lost its oxide when brazing, hence the odd looking 1 black and 1 silver.
> Thats a 1.0mm mig tip for the nozzle soldered onto a short section of brake tubing.



This is FANTASTIC ... Well done man! 

If you want to go the extra mile and blacken the protruding bits ... try these guys, https://www.sunbeamtech.co.za/blackfast, they have a 20 ml kit for smallish projects

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## Raindance

Actually forgot about this thread. The latest incarnation of the “Rainmaker”.









Regards

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## Intuthu Kagesi

Raindance said:


> Actually forgot about this thread. The latest incarnation of the “Rainmaker”.
> View attachment 238491
> 
> View attachment 238492
> 
> View attachment 238493
> 
> View attachment 238494
> 
> 
> Regards


Looks like I need to take some tips from you ... I want to improve upon the existing interstage cooler / moisture removal on my Bauer Compressor

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

Raindance said:


> The latest incarnation of the “Rainmaker”.



You can call it the Rainmaker but I've told you before that the stuff it produces isn't water.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

... and there we were with woodwork again, knocking up a few tank stands for mates that clearly have too many tanks 

I must say that I much prefer working with metals, and I take my hat off to all the carpenters out there, this sh## is clearly more of an art than a science

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## blujeenz

Finally decided I need a DRO on my mill, went the cheap route with a caliper from Machinery Mart.
The nice thing is that you can touch the work piece and then zero the vernier and then drill to a precise depth, something not possible with the oem analog scale.

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

blujeenz said:


> Finally decided I need a DRO on my mill, went the cheap route with a caliper from Machinery Mart.
> The nice thing is that you can touch the work piece and then zero the vernier and then drill to a precise depth, something not possible with the oem analog scale.
> 
> View attachment 239759




Those cheap verniers are remarkably accurate. I have seen several reviews on them and they do the job to unexpected levels of accuracy.

They will be far more accurate and easy to use than the analog scale. 

Great hack

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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> ... and there we were with woodwork again, knocking up a few tank stands for mates that clearly have too many tanks
> 
> I must say that I much prefer working with metals, and I take my hat off to all the carpenters out there, this sh## is clearly more of an art than a science
> 
> View attachment 239750


I know who owns the Blotto stand

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## Resistance

Told myself get yourself together and start finishing what you start and never complete. So I did.

I mentioned this project before. Just cant find where exactly I mentioned it.
I took an ijust chip and retrofitted it into the luxotic.


I missed some parts due to a few reasons but I got it working. It's still not complete. I still miss the button. It's somewhere and I will find it eventually.
The mod now has onboard charging for those emergencies.

but it works and that's the best part.

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## Raindance

By my calculations, my distillation efforts will be much improved if I start off with a decent raw material. Tried it with my distilled apricot water and hell yeah! Damn this pure water is the bomb!

Regards

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## Raindance

Also did a number three on my beard. Hell, I miss stroking that pubic hair emanating from the nether regions of my face. I feel naked…

Regards

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## Viper_SA

Just found this thread. Didn't read through all 23 pages obviously, but it seems like a good place to ask for some help in case I don't come right with my current project. Anyone here in the Vaal of Jhb area that has a small sandblasting station? I'm trying to remove some stubborn paint from a mod and while wirebrushes are doing the trick, there are some impossible to reach nooks and crannies. As a last resort I might have to resort to sandblasting. Just putting out some feelers here.

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## Viper_SA

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> ... and there we were with woodwork again, knocking up a few tank stands for mates that clearly have too many tanks
> 
> I must say that I much prefer working with metals, and I take my hat off to all the carpenters out there, this sh## is clearly more of an art than a science
> 
> View attachment 239750



First rule of carpentry : measure twice, cut once

Reactions: Winner 2


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## Resistance

Viper_SA said:


> Just found this thread. Didn't read through all 23 pages obviously, but it seems like a good place to ask for some help in case I don't come right with my current project. Anyone here in the Vaal of Jhb area that has a small sandblasting station? I'm trying to remove some stubborn paint from a mod and while wirebrushes are doing the trick, there are some impossible to reach nooks and crannies. As a last resort I might have to resort to sandblasting. Just putting out some feelers here.


Midas has a small handheld unit for diy. Currently on sale. Check the site or wait till I can upload a pic a little later.
You'll still need a compressor or go to the petrol garage, whatever it's called nowadays and use their air for free!

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## Resistance

https://modernautomidas.co.za/produ...axlcmCpavc2y0Lzc7CwyOaaYHPorofoxoCdJ8QAvD_BwE

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Midas has a small handheld unit for diy. Currently on sale. Check the site or wait till I can upload a pic a little later.
> You'll still need a compressor or go to the petrol garage, whatever it's called nowadays and use their air for free!



I use this one from Machinery mart, suction feed, still need a compressor.
You're going to need to reload that Midas gravity hopper often.
https://www.adendorff.co.za/product/mac-afric-sand-blast-gun-with-pipe-nozzles/

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## Viper_SA

Thanks for the input guys. No compressor in this household though, and I doubt the gas station would appreciate me pulling in and grabbing a hose 

Like I said, a last resort. Let's see what I can do before that

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## Resistance

Viper_SA said:


> Thanks for the input guys. No compressor in this household though, and I doubt the gas station would appreciate me pulling in and grabbing a hose
> 
> Like I said, a last resort. Let's see what I can do before that


Nothing wrong with asking them. I've asked before and I was helped by them.
Otherwise just use a small pick(sharp object) to pick off the other paint and Duram paint stripper till your happy.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> I use this one from Machinery mart, suction feed, still need a compressor.
> You're going to need to reload that Midas gravity hopper often.
> https://www.adendorff.co.za/product/mac-afric-sand-blast-gun-with-pipe-nozzles/



I was going to get this exact same one. Things changed since then. I don't even have a compressor anymore ,but looking to build a small one in the near future.

Reactions: Like 4


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## Intuthu Kagesi

My story begins with me purchasing a Smok M17 some time back, (_no laughter now please_ ) ... it served it purpose for the first hour of operation, whereupon it proceeded to emulate an old British car, or is that it showed it's true colours and became a shmuck, and start spewing juice ... needless to say, after unsuccessfully replacing a few coils in vain to arrest said leak(s), it was relegated to my bottom drawer. 
So scratching around in my bottom draw from time to time, and not being one to admit defeat to a piece of equipment, had thought about resurrecting it, however when @DarthBranMuffin posted a pic of a Merlin Nano he had recently purchased, I was reminded of the tank I'd originally thought of putting on it, the Merlin Nano, (an 18mm tank) ... and the challenge was on.

So I stripped the midget mod down to see how I could attach a 510 socket in lieu of the proprietary tank, and found that with minimal grinding, and drilling a 10mm hole in the top mod / bottom tank piece, I could attach a repurposed Vaperesso Gen 510 adapter. 
I soldered the 510 top in place, and epoxied the base on, and then decided to replace the battery too ... It's a claimed 1300mA/hr battery, and the internal diameter of the tube is 16.6mm, and removal of a piece of foam wadding on the end of the battery gave me 72mm to play with, so ... Enter a new 16650, which has doubled the claimed capacity to 2500mA/hr 

I've subsequently tested it with a Vertex with 0.9 Ohm coil installed, (_yes it looks ridiculous with a 22mm tank ... it's a test dammit _) ... and ... it vapes just great, remembering that the M17 isn't adjustable, so I'm guessing that's probably going to be the future build, anyhoo ... below are the pics as I went along, (_the ones I remembered to take _)

As additional discovery as I went along ... SMOK's build quality is seriously suspect  ... the fire button was held in place with a piece of Sellotape, (_see pic_), and as have been the only owner of this device, that's how it came from the factory 
The other thing I discovered that may interest people building tank stands ... is that the thread on the top of the M17 coils is M7*0.5, so grab a few old M17 coils and epoxy them into your mod stands as it's the same thread that tanks use

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## DarthBranMuffin

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> My story begins with me purchasing a Smok M17 some time back, (_no laughter now please_ ) ... it served it purpose for the first hour of operation, whereupon it proceeded to emulate an old British car, or is that it showed it's true colours and became a shmuck, and start spewing juice ... needless to say, after unsuccessfully replacing a few coils in vain to arrest said leak(s), it was relegated to my bottom drawer.
> So scratching around in my bottom draw from time to time, and not being one to admit defeat to a piece of equipment, had thought about resurrecting it, however when @DarthBranMuffin posted a pic of a Merlin Nano he had recently purchased, I was reminded of the tank I'd originally thought of putting on it, the Merlin Nano, (an 18mm tank) ... and the challenge was on.
> 
> So I stripped the midget mod down to see how I could attach a 510 socket in lieu of the proprietary tank, and found that with minimal grinding, and drilling a 10mm hole in the top mod / bottom tank piece, I could attach a repurposed Vaperesso Gen 510 adapter.
> I soldered the 510 top in place, and epoxied the base on, and then decided to replace the battery too ... It's a claimed 1300mA/hr battery, and the internal diameter of the tube is 16.6mm, and removal of a piece of foam wadding on the end of the battery gave me 72mm to play with, so ... Enter a new 16650, which has doubled the claimed capacity to 2500mA/hr
> 
> I've subsequently tested it with a Vertex with 0.9 Ohm coil installed, (_yes it looks ridiculous with a 22mm tank ... it's a test dammit _) ... and ... it vapes just great, remembering that the M17 isn't adjustable, so I'm guessing that's probably going to be the future build, anyhoo ... below are the pics as I went along, (_the ones I remembered to take _)
> 
> As additional discovery as I went along ... SMOK's build quality is seriously suspect  ... the fire button was held in place with a piece of Sellotape, (_see pic_), and as have been the only owner of this device, that's how it came from the factory
> The other thing I discovered that may interest people building tank stands ... is that the thread on the top of the M17 coils is M7*0.5, so grab a few old M17 coils and epoxy them into your mod stands as it's the same thread that tanks use
> 
> View attachment 241126
> View attachment 241127
> View attachment 241128
> View attachment 241129
> View attachment 241130
> View attachment 241131
> View attachment 241132
> View attachment 241133



And that is why we pay you the big bucks!!! Awesome job!

Guess who'll be buying some M17 coils soon... and guess who will be sponsoring a Merlin Nano for your valiant effort! I know a guy....

Reactions: Winner 5


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## Intuthu Kagesi

DarthBranMuffin said:


> And that is why we pay you the big bucks!!! Awesome job!
> 
> Guess who'll be buying some M17 coils soon... and guess who will be sponsoring a Merlin Nano for your valiant effort! I know a guy....



I've been pretty "shlap" and uninspired of recent and once again you provided the inspiration ... and the kick up the butt ... so thank YOU!

Reactions: Winner 5


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## Resistance

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> My story begins with me purchasing a Smok M17 some time back, (_no laughter now please_ ) ... it served it purpose for the first hour of operation, whereupon it proceeded to emulate an old British car, or is that it showed it's true colours and became a shmuck, and start spewing juice ... needless to say, after unsuccessfully replacing a few coils in vain to arrest said leak(s), it was relegated to my bottom drawer.
> So scratching around in my bottom draw from time to time, and not being one to admit defeat to a piece of equipment, had thought about resurrecting it, however when @DarthBranMuffin posted a pic of a Merlin Nano he had recently purchased, I was reminded of the tank I'd originally thought of putting on it, the Merlin Nano, (an 18mm tank) ... and the challenge was on.
> 
> So I stripped the midget mod down to see how I could attach a 510 socket in lieu of the proprietary tank, and found that with minimal grinding, and drilling a 10mm hole in the top mod / bottom tank piece, I could attach a repurposed Vaperesso Gen 510 adapter.
> I soldered the 510 top in place, and epoxied the base on, and then decided to replace the battery too ... It's a claimed 1300mA/hr battery, and the internal diameter of the tube is 16.6mm, and removal of a piece of foam wadding on the end of the battery gave me 72mm to play with, so ... Enter a new 16650, which has doubled the claimed capacity to 2500mA/hr
> 
> I've subsequently tested it with a Vertex with 0.9 Ohm coil installed, (_yes it looks ridiculous with a 22mm tank ... it's a test dammit _) ... and ... it vapes just great, remembering that the M17 isn't adjustable, so I'm guessing that's probably going to be the future build, anyhoo ... below are the pics as I went along, (_the ones I remembered to take _)
> 
> As additional discovery as I went along ... SMOK's build quality is seriously suspect  ... the fire button was held in place with a piece of Sellotape, (_see pic_), and as have been the only owner of this device, that's how it came from the factory
> The other thing I discovered that may interest people building tank stands ... is that the thread on the top of the M17 coils is M7*0.5, so grab a few old M17 coils and epoxy them into your mod stands as it's the same thread that tanks use
> 
> View attachment 241126
> View attachment 241127
> View attachment 241128
> View attachment 241129
> View attachment 241130
> View attachment 241131
> View attachment 241132
> View attachment 241133



Brilliant!

Reactions: Agree 3 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

I've been building an arduino uno driven stepper indexer, waiting for Monday so the shops can open for a flex coupler and m4 allen bolts and then the testing/playing can begin.




Basically its an upgrade over a standard dividing head for the mill, no need to calculate how many holes past how many full turns on which plate number.

Machinery mart has a nice swivel one for just under R9000.



I picked up the industrial worm gearbox(Bonfiglioli VF49, 100:1 ratio) at the scrapyard for R30, the Nema 23 stepper I had lying around and the rest of the electronics added up to R500 odd.

I still have some things to figure out, dunno whether to cast the angle plate mount out of Al or bend one out of 8mm mild steel.
Then I'll need some 25mm dia steel for the spindle and figure out what to do for a chuck.

Inspiration came from Myfordboys YT channel.

Code and wiring from Gary Liming's blog.
http://liming.org/millindex/

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> I've been building an arduino uno driven stepper indexer, waiting for Monday so the shops can open for a flex coupler and m4 allen bolts and then the testing/playing can begin.
> 
> View attachment 241171
> 
> 
> Basically its an upgrade over a standard dividing head for the mill, no need to calculate how many holes past how many full turns on which plate number.
> 
> Machinery mart has a nice swivel one for just under R9000.
> View attachment 241174
> 
> 
> I picked up the industrial worm gearbox(Bonfiglioli VF49, 100:1 ratio) at the scrapyard for R30, the Nema 23 stepper I had lying around and the rest of the electronics added up to R500 odd.
> 
> I still have some things to figure out, dunno whether to cast the angle plate mount out of Al or bend one out of 8mm mild steel.
> Then I'll need some 25mm dia steel for the spindle and figure out what to do for a chuck.
> 
> Inspiration came from Myfordboys YT channel.
> 
> Code and wiring from Gary Liming's blog.
> http://liming.org/millindex/




Another brilliant project brother.
Cast one then it's done and good for the next good couple of years.

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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Another brilliant project brother.
> Cast one then it's done and good for the next good couple of years.


Jip, I've settled on cast as its easier to mill, already made a cardboard mockup from the cereal box to check sizes and clearances.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Jip, I've settled on cast as its easier to mill, already made a cardboard mockup from the cereal box to check sizes and clearances.



Would a Teflon or equivalent thermoplastic cost too much to produce the piece from?

Reactions: Like 1


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## SmokeyJoe

blujeenz said:


> I've been building an arduino uno driven stepper indexer, waiting for Monday so the shops can open for a flex coupler and m4 allen bolts and then the testing/playing can begin.
> 
> View attachment 241171
> 
> 
> Basically its an upgrade over a standard dividing head for the mill, no need to calculate how many holes past how many full turns on which plate number.
> 
> Machinery mart has a nice swivel one for just under R9000.
> View attachment 241174
> 
> 
> I picked up the industrial worm gearbox(Bonfiglioli VF49, 100:1 ratio) at the scrapyard for R30, the Nema 23 stepper I had lying around and the rest of the electronics added up to R500 odd.
> 
> I still have some things to figure out, dunno whether to cast the angle plate mount out of Al or bend one out of 8mm mild steel.
> Then I'll need some 25mm dia steel for the spindle and figure out what to do for a chuck.
> 
> Inspiration came from Myfordboys YT channel.
> 
> Code and wiring from Gary Liming's blog.
> http://liming.org/millindex/



Yeah i missed it after the 5th word. What the hell is it?

Reactions: Funny 4


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> Would a Teflon or equivalent thermoplastic cost too much to produce the piece from?


Definitely, I paid R400 plus for a 1m length of 30mm dia teflon. 
Doubt it would be strong enough to hold the fixture while milling gears.

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## blujeenz

SmokeyJoe said:


> Yeah i missed it after the 5th word. What the hell is it?



A dividing head/ rotary table can rotate minute steps of a degree.
So you can cut 4 sides on a round threaded rod to make square drive bolts, commonly used on quick change tool posts on the lathe.
Or you can lay out a precise pitch circle dia with any bolt hole pattern, like 5 bolts on a 120mm dia, bolt hole pattern for Jag XJ6.
Want to drill 3 equally spaced holes on a tube circumference?
my dingus will do it.

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## Stew

SmokeyJoe said:


> Yeah i missed it after the 5th word. What the hell is it?


Glad I wasn't the only one.

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## Christos

Raindance said:


> By my calculations, my distillation efforts will be much improved if I start off with a decent raw material. Tried it with my distilled apricot water and hell yeah! Damn this pure water is the bomb!
> 
> Regards
> View attachment 240640
> View attachment 240641



What is the final ppm or EC value of your reverse osmosis water?

I ran tests on my current water filtration and only noticeable difference was a PH reading of 0.5 less than tap water. I cannot comment on any pesticides or chemicals that are in the tap water. (I would recommend filtration irrespective of tap quality to remove bacteria and other impurities I don’t have the equipment to test for)

I was thinking of getting reverse osmosis but my water quality is quite good 50- 100 ppm. RO wouldn’t help me much. Only think I can think of is perhaps the RO changes the PH of the water making it slightly less alkaline towards PH neutral. 
Most people agree that a slightly acidic PH in water tastes better than tap water. 
To put things into perspective, tap water is around 8.5PH where spring or bottled water is around 5-6PH.

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## Raindance

Christos said:


> What is the final ppm or EC value of your reverse osmosis water?
> 
> I ran tests on my current water filtration and only noticeable difference was a PH reading of 0.5 less than tap water. I cannot comment on any pesticides or chemicals that are in the tap water. (I would recommend filtration irrespective of tap quality to remove bacteria and other impurities I don’t have the equipment to test for)
> 
> I was thinking of getting reverse osmosis but my water quality is quite good 50- 100 ppm. RO wouldn’t help me much. Only think I can think of is perhaps the RO changes the PH of the water making it slightly less alkaline towards PH neutral.
> Most people agree that a slightly acidic PH in water tastes better than tap water.
> To put things into perspective, tap water is around 8.5PH where spring or bottled water is around 5-6PH.


After very careful testing with the most state of the art equipment at my disposal the following results:
Plain tap water:



Filtered tap water:



No comment.

Regards

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## Christos

Raindance said:


> After very careful testing with the most state of the art equipment at my disposal the following results:
> Plain tap water:
> View attachment 241384
> 
> 
> Filtered tap water:
> View attachment 241385
> 
> 
> No comment.
> 
> Regards


Interestingly, Please remember to top yourself up with calcium and magnesium as our tap water and your RO water should have very little in it!

Reactions: Winner 1 | Informative 2


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## blujeenz

After 3 days of flops and tribulations, I finally have an angle plate, shown mounted on my mill table.
The next stage is searching for some 25mm dia steel bar to mount a 4 jaw chuck on the end and all will be complete.

Reactions: Winner 6


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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> After 3 days of flops and tribulations, I finally have an angle plate, shown mounted on my mill table.
> The next stage is searching for some 25mm dia steel bar to mount a 4 jaw chuck on the end and all will be complete.
> View attachment 241409



Well done!  ... That 100:1 gearbox with a Arduino behind the stepper motor is going to make it indexable and possibly more accurate than the bearing backlash on that box

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## blujeenz

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> Well done!  ... That 100:1 gearbox with a Arduino behind the stepper motor is going to make it indexable and possibly more accurate than the bearing backlash on that box



Thanks, that was my plan to make a dividing head/ rotary table.
There doesnt seem to be any backlash trying to wiggle it by hand, but we'll see once I have a keyed spindle in there.

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## Intuthu Kagesi



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## Christos

Raindance said:


> After very careful testing with the most state of the art equipment at my disposal the following results:
> Plain tap water:
> View attachment 241384
> 
> 
> Filtered tap water:
> View attachment 241385
> 
> 
> No comment.
> 
> Regards


Interestingly, I took a reading of a popular bottled water brand that I have as we did not have water yesterday.

Turns out the PH 7.8 - not far off from my taps 8.1 reading and the EC of the "Pure" water was 0.4 - roughly 200PPM compared to the 50PPM from my tap.

I was expecting the water to be less alkaline firstly. the EC reading would also be alarming but the EC reading can be justified possibly by being "spring water", having calcium, magnesium and other dissolvable solids found in spring water.

I am still impressed with the quality of water we have in JHB but as mentioned before, these are basic tests and I do not have the equipment to test for other chemicals or bacteria that could be present in the water.

Reactions: Winner 2 | Informative 1


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## blujeenz

After much searching I was kindly given a piece of high carbon steel(25mm dia x 130mm long) by the gent at Zaya Metals in Montague gardens.

You could say this pic is sponsored by Zaya Metals. 




The complete unit bolted together. Currently using 3 standoffs between the gearbox and angle plate, but I might leave them off and just cut a clearance hole for the worm's hub.




Mounted on the mini mill, checking backlash which was an expected 9/100mm call it 0.1mm.
Run out on the chuck face is a more worrying 0.15mm.
Still busy with the blue printing to see which bolt hole combo gives the least error.



EDIT: the next day.
I decided to mill the worm hub mating face square in the fixture and then keyed the adapter flange and milled that square as well.
Now the face runout on the flange/chuck side is a respectable 0.01mm.
Black lash is down to 8/100 mm after dimpling the key with a center punch, not a huge concern as long as you rotate in the same direction and dont reverse at all.

Reactions: Winner 7 | Funny 1


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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> After much searching I was kindly given a piece of high carbon steel(25mm dia x 130mm long) by the gent at Zaya Metals in Montague gardens.
> 
> You could say this pic is sponsored by Zaya Metals.
> View attachment 241855
> 
> 
> 
> The complete unit bolted together. Currently using 3 standoffs between the gearbox and angle plate, but I might leave them off and just cut a clearance hole for the worm's hub.
> View attachment 241856
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted on the mini mill, checking backlash which was an expected 9/100mm call it 0.1mm.
> Run out on the chuck face is a more worrying 0.15mm.
> Still busy with the blue printing to see which bolt hole combo gives the least error.
> View attachment 241857


Sheer brilliance!

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## Intuthu Kagesi

That is friggen clever!  WELL DONE MAN!

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## blujeenz

A bit of vibration causes my mill head to drop resulting in a cutter crash, gouges the work piece and knocks the column out of perpendicular.
So far I havent stripped the plastic gear on the motor shaft, but I figured it was time to do something.

These mini mills use a torsion spring to counter the 17kgs of the head, a very poor design. I tried adding a 30mm bar link but it only made things worse at the top of travel and not much improvement at the bottom.


I had an idea of using a counter weight hanging at the back, so I popped onto the interwebs looking for mods.
Qquite a few Americans using gas struts, with a company selling a kit.



I'm going for the sub- economy version because I cant find a module 1 rack in the right size in South Africa.
So basically just a gas strut, 2m of 1.5mm dia wire rope, 2 pulleys, some mounts and hardware.

Gas strut came from McNaughtans in Parow, its the K4046( too long, changed to a K4045) charged to 180 newtons. (R135)
The Youtube mods typically use 2 struts and one cable, I'm going with one strut and 2 cables to balance the load.
It probably should work okay.

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## blujeenz

Finished my mill upgrade last nite. Works well, the wire cables dont slacken even if I wind up as fast as possible.

The complete assembly.



A before shot with the torsion oem spring that had lost most of its torsion in the 5 years Ive had it.




The after.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> Finished my mill upgrade last nite. Works well, the wire cables dont slacken even if I wind up as fast as possible.
> 
> The complete assembly.
> View attachment 242354
> 
> 
> A before shot with the torsion oem spring that had lost most of its torsion in the 5 years Ive had it.
> View attachment 242353
> 
> 
> 
> The after.
> 
> View attachment 242355


Wow!

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## Puff the Magic Dragon

Every time that you use it in future you will appreciate it.

Reactions: Agree 3 | Winner 1


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## Stew

Thought I would share with you a Perspex cutting tool I made many years ago. It actually gouges out a strip of Perspex. There is an angle on the cutting or gouging edge and the perspex never splinters.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 10


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## SmokeyJoe

Stew said:


> Thought I would share with you a Perspex cutting tool I made many years ago. It actually gouges out a strip of Perspex. There is an angle on the cutting or gouging edge and the perspex never splinters.
> 
> View attachment 242790
> View attachment 242791
> View attachment 242792
> View attachment 242793


Looks like i might need one of those for castration when my daughter starts dating the horny little shits

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## DarthBranMuffin

SmokeyJoe said:


> Looks like i might need one of those for castration when my daughter starts dating the horny little shits



3 things to remember for any half cooked boy dating my daughter:
- I have a shotgun
- I have a shovel
- I have an alibi

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## Munro31

DarthBranMuffin said:


> 3 things to remember for any half cooked boy dating my daughter:
> - I have a shotgun
> - I have a shovel
> - I have an alibi


4 things actually, you forgot, I am not scared to go back to jail

Reactions: Funny 10


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## blujeenz

Sundays job was a gooseneck light for the mill, some ally strap and tube and uncle bob.




First real job with my new gadget, re doing the graduations on my lathe dial, it was worn off from bad pitting rust when I bought it and my cleaning with steel wool didnt make anything better. 
Using an inlet valve stem that I shaped on the grinding wheel.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 8


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## SmokeyJoe

blujeenz said:


> Sundays job was a gooseneck light for the mill, some ally strap and tube and uncle bob.
> 
> View attachment 242855
> 
> 
> First real job with my new gadget, re doing the graduations on my lathe dial, it was worn off from bad pitting rust when I bought it and my cleaning with steel wool didnt make anything better.
> Using an inlet valve stem that I shaped on the grinding wheel.
> View attachment 242856


I made toast today

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## blujeenz

New week , new project.
This time its a belt drive for the mini mill.
Only kit available is an import from Pasadena, California @ R3050 incl shipping, alas its large pulley is designed for the Sieg X2 mini mill with a 30mm dia spindle and my Mac Afric has a 28mm spindle.
Not that I was going to toss R3k at California anyway. 



What I've made so far.



Belt took a few days to find, R17.50 from a sewing machine place and the aluminium was R86 from Non Ferrous Metals.
Just the pulleys to design and cast and some hardware to button it together... probably all in for less than R150.
I feel like a weenah.

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## blujeenz

...and done. Belt still a bit short for the smaller high speed because I was a chop chasing rpm's and made the pulley to small. 
Low speed is still 1100, high would be 4600rpm compared to the original 2500.
I'll probably be looking for a smaller sewing machine belt come Monday.




All the parts no longer needed, old cast iron top plate and intermediate shaft with nylon cogs from the gearbox.

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## blujeenz

I'm wanting to have a custom pcb made for a tyre tread depth gauge so that I can hack it into a DRO for my mill.
Any board designer boffins that could tell me what software I should be using would be a great help.
I've tried many of the free ones like Fritzing , FreePcb and LibrePcb, but they start with the premise that you have a schematic and put components on a board that you connect with traces.
In my case I have no holes, traces or components and I've been stumped at the design stage. Most of the pcb manufacturers want a gerber file which is the output of the cad software.



So far I've got a usable output from the read head and by cutting the plastic slider, I've got a range of 0mm to 65mm(originally 25mm), but to get to 250mm I'm going to need a new pcb.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> I'm wanting to have a custom pcb made for a tyre tread depth gauge so that I can hack it into a DRO for my mill.
> Any board designer boffins that could tell me what software I should be using would be a great help.
> I've tried many of the free ones like Fritzing , FreePcb and LibrePcb, but they start with the premise that you have a schematic and put components on a board that you connect with traces.
> In my case I have no holes, traces or components and I've been stumped at the design stage. Most of the pcb manufacturers want a gerber file which is the output of the cad software.
> View attachment 245459
> 
> 
> So far I've got a usable output from the read head and by cutting the plastic slider, I've got a range of 0mm to 65mm(originally 25mm), but to get to 250mm I'm going to need a new pcb.



I use a program called ZenitPCB, (_which is freeware, and does read / produce Gerber files_). 
Most of the freeware should be able to do what you want tho' if you use one of their their edge connector templates, and then tweak the sizing

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## blujeenz

Intuthu Kagesi said:


> I use a program called ZenitPCB, (_which is freeware, and does read / produce Gerber files_).
> Most of the freeware should be able to do what you want tho' if you use one of their their edge connector templates, and then tweak the sizing


After watching a YT vid on custom edge connectors, I took the easy way out and had a chat with the folk at a local pcb spot.
I explained what formats I had and what I wanted and he said I should send a pdf file which was easy enough to do, just hit up an online dxf to pdf converter.
When I received the quote, it was a bit of a shocker to say the least, R2087 , being R350 for 1 layer setup and R300 a pop for the boards, minimum of 5.
Guess Im going to have to try lasering some aluminium tape to see if its viable.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> After watching a YT vid on custom edge connectors, I took the easy way out and had a chat with the folk at a local pcb spot.
> I explained what formats I had and what I wanted and he said I should send a pdf file which was easy enough to do, just hit up an online dxf to pdf converter.
> When I received the quote, it was a bit of a shocker to say the least, R2087 , being R350 for 1 layer setup and R300 a pop for the boards, minimum of 5.
> Guess Im going to have to try lasering some aluminium tape to see if its viable.



On YouTube there's video's on how to acid etch the boards once you have the design.

Reactions: Winner 1


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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> After watching a YT vid on custom edge connectors, I took the easy way out and had a chat with the folk at a local pcb spot.
> I explained what formats I had and what I wanted and he said I should send a pdf file which was easy enough to do, just hit up an online dxf to pdf converter.
> When I received the quote, it was a bit of a shocker to say the least, R2087 , being R350 for 1 layer setup and R300 a pop for the boards, minimum of 5.
> Guess Im going to have to try lasering some aluminium tape to see if its viable.



That costing looks fair ... the biggest single cost element is setting up and making the positive, (_which depending on board complexity would typically be a 2 * larger than your design, black and white image on a piece of clear acetate_).
They will charge you for setup to whatever their standard board size is too, so what I try to do, is stack a few projects together to get a cost effective end result, as then I only pay for one setup and get three of four prototypes with one or two pcb's per project.
The other alternatives are;

* Make the acetate positive yourself by using a laser printer and printing at 2* size and then use Mantech or Communica to do a one off, (which will still be a few hundred rands per PCB, but a bit cheaper than what you've been quoted), or;

* Make an actual size acetate image using a clear acetate sheet on your lazer printer, and getting a product called "Potitiv20" from Mantech or Communica, along with a powerful UV light, some plastic containers and the chemicals required to do the resist exposure as well as the actual etching, namely Sodium Hydroxide, (Caustic Soda), to use as the acetate resist etching post exposure to UV, followed by either Nitric Acid or Ferric Chloride for the actual PCB etching, and .... some clothing, eye and hand protection or;

* Have either a PCB or piece of thinnish metal lazer cut or lazer etched, which is probably the cheapest alternative for a "one of" design such as you seek.

Reactions: Winner 1


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## blujeenz

Resistance said:


> On YouTube there's video's on how to acid etch the boards once you have the design.





Intuthu Kagesi said:


> That costing looks fair ... the biggest single cost element is setting up and making the positive, (_which depending on board complexity would typically be a 2 * larger than your design, black and white image on a piece of clear acetate_).
> They will charge you for setup to whatever their standard board size is too, so what I try to do, is stack a few projects together to get a cost effective end result, as then I only pay for one setup and get three of four prototypes with one or two pcb's per project.
> The other alternatives are;
> 
> * Make the acetate positive yourself by using a laser printer and printing at 2* size and then use Mantech or Communica to do a one off, (which will still be a few hundred rands per PCB, but a bit cheaper than what you've been quoted), or;
> 
> * Make an actual size acetate image using a clear acetate sheet on your lazer printer, and getting a product called "Potitiv20" from Mantech or Communica, along with a powerful UV light, some plastic containers and the chemicals required to do the resist exposure as well as the actual etching, namely Sodium Hydroxide, (Caustic Soda), to use as the acetate resist etching post exposure to UV, followed by either Nitric Acid or Ferric Chloride for the actual PCB etching, and .... some clothing, eye and hand protection or;
> 
> * Have either a PCB or piece of thinnish metal lazer cut or lazer etched, which is probably the cheapest alternative for a "one of" design such as you seek.


I'm very dubious about using etch, my attempts in the past havent yielded clean straight edges, they have a lot of undercut and wavy edges if left in long enough to eat through the layer.
Thanks all the same for the info @Intuthu Kagesi it will probably be my last resort. First I'll try laser on Al tape on perspex strip, if that doesnt work, it will probably be cnc routed with a V bit on copper clad FR4.

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## Intuthu Kagesi

blujeenz said:


> I'm very dubious about using etch, my attempts in the past havent yielded clean straight edges, they have a lot of undercut and wavy edges if left in long enough to eat through the layer.
> Thanks all the same for the info @Intuthu Kagesi it will probably be my last resort. First I'll try laser on Al tape on perspex strip, if that doesnt work, it will probably be cnc routed with a V bit on copper clad FR4.



I guess you could try routing it with a tiny v-bit  ... I excluded it as a suggestion above only because of the material thickness, (_or thinness in this case_ )
As to the fine edges on etching ... they key is a stronger acid with a shorter exposure time  .... ie. for PCB's / copper, use Nitric acid as apposed Ferric Chloride

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## DarthBranMuffin

New tank and mod shelve installed on my desk.




To free up space on the top shelve for a new growing collection...

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## blujeenz

DarthBranMuffin said:


> New tank and mod shelve installed on my desk.
> 
> View attachment 247108
> 
> 
> To free up space on the top shelve for a new growing collection...
> 
> View attachment 247109


Is that a 40W co2 laser that you used for the AT AT?

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## DarthBranMuffin

blujeenz said:


> Is that a 40W co2 laser that you used for the AT AT?



Bought the kits at a local market, will stick to building someone else's creations for now.

www.everythinglaser.co.za

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## DarthBranMuffin

Built a ramp for my old boy to get in and out, he can't manage the steps anymore due to arthritis...

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## Stew

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Built a ramp for my old boy to get in and out, he can't manage the steps anymore due to arthritis...
> 
> View attachment 247947
> View attachment 247948
> View attachment 247949
> View attachment 247950
> View attachment 247951


Sweet old man.

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## veecee

Gadgetboy said:


> So here is a project I am busy with for my BB. I took the leap and stripped the thing down. My plan is to get it anodized in a deep blue and get the button plate done in a silver color. I took a drive out to Astro Anodizing in Sebenza today but they could not help me as the magnets that are attached to the frame are still in place. Good news is they have the color scheme I want and can do it for relatively cheap once the magnets have been removed. Now the mission begins by trying to get these things out. I have tried soaking them in Acetone thinking they are glued down, I have heated it up with a hairdryer and the tip of the soldering iron but still they will not budge.
> I'm not to concerned about damaging them as they are relatively cheap to replace. Has anyone perhaps done something similar? My next step is to try drill them out.


Did you ever manage to get the magnets out?

I got a cthulu AIO recently and one of the magnets was installed at the factory "backwards" so it pushes the door, instead of holding it. 

I am battling with a way to get it out and was considering an attempt at drilling it out. I have a center punch too, so wouldn't mind breaking it out either.

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## Resistance

veecee said:


> Did you ever manage to get the magnets out?
> 
> I got a cthulu AIO recently and one of the magnets was installed at the factory "backwards" so it pushes the door, instead of holding it.
> 
> I am battling with a way to get it out and was considering an attempt at drilling it out. I have a center punch too, so wouldn't mind breaking it out either.


Try heating it with a soldering iron to see if the glue will break. Remember if you overheat too much it might end up as scrap

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## veecee

Resistance said:


> Try heating it with a soldering iron to see if the glue will break. Remember if you overheat too much it might end up as scrap


The only thing I'm worried about is damaging the mod. I even considered totally dismantling the thing before attempting to remove the magnet.

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## Gadgetboy

Yip. I had to drill the magnets out. There is no glue that holds them in, they are press fitted. If the magnet is backwards, can you not change the one on the door? Might be safer than heating or drilling on the mod. 
Remember magnets are very strong and you will need diamond tip bits to drill it out. 


Sent from my vivo 2006 using Tapatalk

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## DarthBranMuffin

Sorted out the juice clutter on the desk by spray painting a wooden box... B.A. for scale...

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## DarthBranMuffin

New shelve for the camera arm mount to not have "bouncy" recordings... now to get myself motivated to start recording again...

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## SmokeyJoe

DarthBranMuffin said:


> New shelve for the camera arm mount to not have "bouncy" recordings... now to get myself motivated to start recording again...
> 
> View attachment 257863


Porn?

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Munro31

SmokeyJoe said:


> Porn?


Let's keep our hopes up he gets motivation somewhere

Reactions: Funny 4


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## DarthBranMuffin

Motivation took another turn.... 

*Ingredients:*

1x Glenfiddich Container Top Cap
1x Old 510 plate
1x 10mm Steel Drill bit
Couple of cans of spray paint
10x Minutes tea break

*Result:*

1x Build Stand with "tray" for offcut wire and cotton





My only regret: not stripping out the bottom cap as well to make another one... oh well, guess I'll have to go buy another bottle of scotch then....

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## blujeenz

My latest interest of many, plastic injection molder.
Last weekend was welding, this one will be finishing touches and the wiring.
I have plenty failed 3D ABS prints that can now get a 2nd life with injection molding.

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## Resistance

blujeenz said:


> My latest interest of many, plastic injection molder.
> Last weekend was welding, this one will be finishing touches and the wiring.
> I have plenty failed 3D ABS prints that can now get a 2nd life with injection molding.
> View attachment 259663

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## DarthBranMuffin

Made some new panels for my GeekVape Pro Mech mod.

Thin perspex, stick on checker plate and off we go. 

Got some leftover perspex, will find some other mediums to make more panels.

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## Resistance

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Made some new panels for my GeekVape Pro Mech mod.
> 
> Thin perspex, stick on checker plate and off we go.
> 
> Got some leftover perspex, will find some other mediums to make more panels.
> 
> View attachment 260589
> 
> 
> View attachment 260590


Awesomeness starts there!!!

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## DarthBranMuffin

Local PNA has some intersting wooden items, yet everytime I just browse and leave. But not this weekend... found some wooden "trays", added some wood-wax to stain and seal them, drilled a couple of holes in one and tidied up the top shelve a bit. Still got a couple of other items that needs to be converted into something usefull, but that's for another weekend.

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## blujeenz

My example of the classic, "if it looks stupid, but it works..."
Paddock stand for my Baby Duke, angle iron (30mm x 3mm x 2m) cost R64, cheapest I've seen them is R750 on Gumtree.

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## Silver

Great to see @blujeenz !

but to be fair, you likely have the welding equipment and know how to put it together ?
im sure that costs more than R750 

lovely bike!

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## blujeenz

Silver said:


> Great to see @blujeenz !
> 
> but to be fair, you likely have the welding equipment and know how to put it together ?
> im sure that costs more than R750
> 
> lovely bike!


True that, I think the inverter welder was about R1250 from Makro, about 12 years ago.

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## AKS

A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'


BEFORE





DURING









AFTER

She's happy,I'm happy.

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## Munro31

AKS said:


> A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
> The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'
> View attachment 265212
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> View attachment 265214
> View attachment 265215
> 
> 
> DURING
> 
> View attachment 265219
> 
> View attachment 265216
> 
> View attachment 265217
> 
> View attachment 265218
> 
> AFTER
> 
> She's happy,I'm happy.


WHAT!!! That looks spectacular, love the library !

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## DarthBranMuffin

AKS said:


> A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
> The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'
> View attachment 265212
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> View attachment 265214
> View attachment 265215
> 
> 
> DURING
> 
> View attachment 265219
> 
> View attachment 265216
> 
> View attachment 265217
> 
> View attachment 265218
> 
> AFTER
> 
> She's happy,I'm happy.



Bliksem! When my son (eventually) moves out, you can come upgrade my mancave-to-be too! Love It!

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## Resistance

AKS said:


> A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
> The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'
> View attachment 265212
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> View attachment 265214
> View attachment 265215
> 
> 
> DURING
> 
> View attachment 265219
> 
> View attachment 265216
> 
> View attachment 265217
> 
> View attachment 265218
> 
> AFTER
> 
> She's happy,I'm happy.


That looks exceptional. Beautiful bro.

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## Ryan Evans

DarthBranMuffin said:


> Made some new panels for my GeekVape Pro Mech mod.
> 
> Thin perspex, stick on checker plate and off we go.
> 
> Got some leftover perspex, will find some other mediums to make more panels.
> 
> View attachment 260589
> 
> 
> View attachment 260590


I thought that was real metal door

Reactions: Like 3


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## DarthBranMuffin

Ryan Evans said:


> I thought that was real metal door



That mod is heavy enough, adding more metal will make it a two-hand device

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2


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## veecee

AKS said:


> A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
> The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'
> View attachment 265212
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> View attachment 265214
> View attachment 265215
> 
> 
> DURING
> 
> View attachment 265219
> 
> View attachment 265216
> 
> View attachment 265217
> 
> View attachment 265218
> 
> AFTER
> 
> She's happy,I'm happy.


Wow. Just wow!

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Puff the Magic Dragon

Great work.

Just have one question. How come you went to all that trouble to make the sliding library ladder but don't use the top shelf?

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2


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## DarthBranMuffin

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> Great work.
> 
> Just have one question. How come you went to all that trouble to make the sliding library ladder but don't use the top shelf?



She is afraid of heights

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2


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## Caramia

AKS said:


> A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
> The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'
> View attachment 265212
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> View attachment 265214
> View attachment 265215
> 
> 
> DURING
> 
> View attachment 265219
> 
> View attachment 265216
> 
> View attachment 265217
> 
> View attachment 265218
> 
> AFTER
> 
> She's happy,I'm happy.


Dayum, that is awesome!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## AKS

Puff the Magic Dragon said:


> sliding


She has yet to acquire junk....I mean objects to put up there.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 3


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## Silver

AKS said:


> A few weekends project. Work from home has become a more regular part of my wife's routine,so a study/office upgrade was requested.
> The brief was 'comfortable and mooi.'
> View attachment 265212
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> View attachment 265214
> View attachment 265215
> 
> 
> DURING
> 
> View attachment 265219
> 
> View attachment 265216
> 
> View attachment 265217
> 
> View attachment 265218
> 
> AFTER
> 
> She's happy,I'm happy.



that is outstanding @AKS 
bravo !
happy wife, happy life

Reactions: Like 2 | Thanks 1


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## blujeenz

Another work stand, this time for the front wheel.
I was getting squealing from the front wheel so I wanted to check out the wheel bearings and overhaul the brake caliper.

$380 from the US, ie R6080 ront. 



My version from some steel lying around.

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## supermoto

I've been meaning to do rhis for ages. Offcuts of wood that were just laying about in the workshop and some records that needed a home

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## Silver

supermoto said:


> I've been meaning to do rhis for ages. Offcuts of wood that were just laying about in the workshop and some records that needed a home



Well done @supermoto !!

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## Resistance

That


supermoto said:


> I've been meaning to do rhis for ages. Offcuts of wood that were just laying about in the workshop and some records that needed a home


 Looks nice. I have something simular planned for next weekend if I'm not. Working

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## supermoto

Resistance said:


> That
> 
> Looks nice. I have something simular planned for next weekend if I'm not. Working


Good luck. Mine is a bit of an experiment. Its just held together with glue and 3 Brad nails on each joint.. I want to see how long the glue holds with the weight of all the albums

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## Resistance

supermoto said:


> Good luck. Mine is a bit of an experiment. Its just held together with glue and 3 Brad nails on each joint.. I want to see how long the glue holds with the weight of all the albums


It should with the help of the nails last a lifetime if it stays on one place. 
Once you start moving it and your not careful that's when it starts losening

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## DarthBranMuffin

My son wants to plant some veggies, but the mokeys cannot leave anything eddible alone when the troop missions through the neighborhood. So I decided to build him planters with a frame that can open and latch propperly.

Came put better than what it looked like in my mind and with the help of Mrs Chuck Norris Lungs we managed to run a planter box factory yesterday with plastic lining installed.

All it needs now is some wood sealer and then the netting can go on. Then he can gravel/soil it up, plant the seeds and watch the monkeys drewl over his veggies...

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## Silver

DarthBranMuffin said:


> My son wants to plant some veggies, but the mokeys cannot leave anything eddible alone when the troop missions through the neighborhood. So I decided to build him planters with a frame that can open and latch propperly.
> 
> Came put better than what it looked like in my mind and with the help of Mrs Chuck Norris Lungs we managed to run a planter box factory yesterday with plastic lining installed.
> 
> All it needs now is some wood sealer and then the netting can go on. Then he can gravel/soil it up, plant the seeds and watch the monkeys drewl over his veggies...
> 
> View attachment 267513
> 
> 
> View attachment 267514
> 
> 
> View attachment 267515
> 
> 
> View attachment 267516
> 
> 
> View attachment 267517
> 
> 
> View attachment 267518
> 
> 
> View attachment 267519



great job @DarthBranMuffin 
lucky son!

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## Resistance

DarthBranMuffin said:


> My son wants to plant some veggies, but the mokeys cannot leave anything eddible alone when the troop missions through the neighborhood. So I decided to build him planters with a frame that can open and latch propperly.
> 
> Came put better than what it looked like in my mind and with the help of Mrs Chuck Norris Lungs we managed to run a planter box factory yesterday with plastic lining installed.
> 
> All it needs now is some wood sealer and then the netting can go on. Then he can gravel/soil it up, plant the seeds and watch the monkeys drewl over his veggies...
> 
> View attachment 267513
> 
> 
> View attachment 267514
> 
> 
> View attachment 267515
> 
> 
> View attachment 267516
> 
> 
> View attachment 267517
> 
> 
> View attachment 267518
> 
> 
> View attachment 267519


Awesome job

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## Resistance

A project I did for a colleague of mine. Took 3days over two weekends.




Stage one completed. Stage two will resume next year sometime.

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## Resistance

Today's I helped my brother to get this done. Loadshedding hit us unannounced but we got it done.

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## Silver

Resistance said:


> View attachment 267801
> 
> Today's I helped my brother to get this done. Loadshedding hit us unannounced but we got it done.
> View attachment 267802


Well done @Resistance !

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## Resistance

Silver said:


> Well done @Resistance !


Thanks @Silver it was a joint effort and it took a lot of time sorting and correcting the stone,bit its done and they're happy


This is what it looks like this morning. My brother will still do skirting and a border around the archway.
Edit: this is repurposed stone tiles.

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