# Woodvil Care and Maintenance



## Christos

Good Day Gentlemen,

I am starting this thread because I would like some information about the proper care and maintenance from the experienced woodvil owners and as a reference for anybody that may want information on this topic in the future!

So, thanks to @Rob Fisher for his hours of waiting for woodvil's to go on sale otherwise I would not be creating this thread!

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## Rob Fisher

Luckily you have a poly coated woodvil so you really only have to take care of the internal sections of your precious Woody. There are a few wood wax's that they recommend but to be honest I have never waxed any of mine because I'm nervous they may pick up a wax smell. I can't say that I have had any degradation by not waxing them.

The only issue is I'm a bit of a serial over squonker and the juice certainly does mark and soak into the wood a little... and my expensive Italian DNA40 mods really suffers from this because it's raw wood and not poly coated.

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## Rob Fisher

These are two of the most recommended wood wax's. Both of which I got from Amazon.

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## Andre

A coat of mineral oil on the inside about once a month. I apply with a small hobby paint brush. Let it stand for about 20 minutes and clean off excess with a cloth. You can heat up the mineral oil a little bit if you want better penetration. I use Butcher's Block mineral oil.

Some Noalox or Deoxit on the tip of the firing pin and the plate where it makes contact.

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## Christos

Does the button come off like a normal reo with a button cover? 

I'm not brave enough to try take it off if it may not come off.

Looks like it locks but if you press hard enough the mod fires which I would like to fix in case my son ever gets the mod in hand.


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## Rob Fisher

Christos said:


> Does the button come off like a normal reo with a button cover?
> 
> I'm not brave enough to try take it off if it may not come off.
> 
> Looks like it locks but if you press hard enough the mod fires which I would like to fix in case my son ever gets the mod in hand.



No it doesn't... some guys have managed to get it off and replace it with the standard button or a bullet case button... but I'm too nervous to force it off and break it... Rob doesn't recommend taking it off.

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## Christos

Thanks @Rob Fisher.
Good to know.

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## Andre

Christos said:


> Does the button come off like a normal reo with a button cover?
> 
> I'm not brave enough to try take it off if it may not come off.
> 
> Looks like it locks but if you press hard enough the mod fires which I would like to fix in case my son ever gets the mod in hand.


As Rob said. If you turn it far enough anti-clockwise is should lock properly and not be able to fire at all. The button on my one Woodvil is quite stiff and takes some turning to lock.

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## Christos

So the contact plate was slightly misaligned. 
Also I made the contract plates circular contact point slightly smaller and the locking issue is resolved. 
There is a tiny bit of play in the button even when locked but it's sorted. 

Pic with button pressed when locked now.

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## Christos

I know this is an odd thing to say, but I am getting a lovely wood taste every time i use the woodvil. 
I know there is no possible way this could happen as the atomizer and everything else is metal but I get a distinct taste of wood every time I use the woodvil.

Maybe its my imagination?


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## Andre

Christos said:


> I know this is an odd thing to say, but I am getting a lovely wood taste every time i use the woodvil.
> I know there is no possible way this could happen as the atomizer and everything else is metal but I get a distinct taste of wood every time I use the woodvil.
> 
> Maybe its my imagination?


No, it is not - it does taste different - good different for me.


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## Christos

Andre said:


> No, it is not - it does taste different - good different for me.


Indeed a good different. 
Makes me wonder what different tastes you would get from different types of wood.


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## Blu_Marlin

It smells so good you could taste it. I`ve never held nor been close to a Woodvil but if the scent of the wood still lingers then there's a close relationship between our sense of taste and smell.

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## Christos

Blu_Marlin said:


> It smells so good you could taste it. I`ve never held nor been close to a Woodvil but if the scent of the wood still lingers then there's a close relationship between our sense of taste and smell.


Strangest thing is the mod doesn't have a smell.

Im vaping a vanilla desert vape and it has tones of pecan nut and well a oak barrel wood taste like a fine brandy!
None of which are present in the same atty on a metal Reo. Thought it was my imagination but im loving the woodvil more and more!


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## Blu_Marlin

Christos said:


> Strangest thing is the mod doesn't have a smell.
> 
> Im vaping a vanilla desert vape and it has tones of pecan nut and well a oak barrel wood taste like a fine brandy!
> None of which are present in the same atty on a metal Reo. Thought it was my imagination but im loving the woodvil more and more!


I`ll have to put it down to "The Effect" then. At least its adding to the flavour of the vape and not detracting from it.


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## Christos

@Rob Fisher, I'm still confused about this but the door of the woody is back to normal! 
I was expecting it to take a week to "dry" and shrink after I got back home. 

I suspect the heat from the SS coil coupled with the bone dry conditions in JHB facilitated with the speedy recovery.


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## Rob Fisher

Christos said:


> @Rob Fisher, I'm still confused about this but the door of the woody is back to normal!
> I was expecting it to take a week to "dry" and shrink after I got back home.
> 
> I suspect the heat from the SS coil coupled with the bone dry conditions in JHB facilitated with the speedy recovery.



Yip I'm sure it did... the Woody's are affected by the moisture in the air for sure!


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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Yip I'm sure it did... the Woody's are affected by the moisture in the air for sure!


I'm just shocked that it happened so quickly!


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## Rob Fisher

Christos said:


> I'm just shocked that it happened so quickly!



Yip... the stabilzed wood ones are much more resilient to moisture... the Maple was fine here in Hillcrest and in JHB but hit Ballito and the game changes considerably!

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## Christos

So I noticed a significant drop in performance on the Woody, which incidentally my wife was calling woody so I temporarily dubbed her Jessie from toy story, where it felt like the battery was flat. 
I would change batteries only to see the batteries were 4.1V.
I noticed that the positive contact plate - the L looking plate was getting extremely hot. Probably hotter than the atty coil! 

A quick treat down of Jessie and a clean revealed a white caked substance around the positive contact. 

I managed to clean it nicely and used some of my sons play things to get it right. 

If anyone is wondering these pipe cleaners were bought at the crazy store and work marvelously well. 

You can see some of the white residue on the feeding pin but it's slightly blurred.


Needless to say she is working beautifully again! 

I did feel sad yesterday when I had to use an aluminium reo as Jessie is now my go to mod.

Now I just need to buy some oil to take care of her innards!

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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> So I noticed a significant drop in performance on the Woody, which incidentally my wife was calling woody so I temporarily dubbed her Jessie from toy story, where it felt like the battery was flat.
> I would change batteries only to see the batteries were 4.1V.
> I noticed that the positive contact plate - the L looking plate was getting extremely hot. Probably hotter than the atty coil!
> 
> A quick treat down of Jessie and a clean revealed a white caked substance around the positive contact.
> 
> I managed to clean it nicely and used some of my sons play things to get it right.
> 
> If anyone is wondering these pipe cleaners were bought at the crazy store and work marvelously well.
> 
> You can see some of the white residue on the feeding pin but it's slightly blurred.
> View attachment 38895
> 
> Needless to say she is working beautifully again!
> 
> I did feel sad yesterday when I had to use an aluminium reo as Jessie is now my go to mod.
> 
> Now I just need to buy some oil to take care of her innards!


Why do you want to splash cash on oil for the inside? I'm sure you have some olive oil at home and it will penetrate the unsealed wood inside,it doesn't smell and is not sticky either.You can even mix a couple of drops of an essential oil in it.If the wood has been sealed any oil is a waste of time unless of course its had a oil applied to penetrate the wood.

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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Why do you want to splash cash on oil for the inside? I'm sure you have some olive oil at home and it will penetrate the unsealed wood inside,it doesn't smell and is not sticky either.You can even mix a couple of drops of an essential oil in it.If the wood has been sealed any oil is a waste of time unless of course its had a oil applied to penetrate the wood.


Thank you for that @Genosmate.

The thought crossed my mind but I thought it would be a stupid questing. 
The only stupid question is the one not asked. 

Olive oil I have in abundance. I buy 5l tins of it at a time


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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> Thank you for that @Genosmate.
> 
> The thought crossed my mind but I thought it would be a stupid questing.
> The only stupid question is the one not asked.
> 
> Olive oil I have in abundance. I buy 5l tins of it at a time


More than welcome and the essential oil is a nice addition,that way you can choose how the mod smells as well


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> More than welcome and the essential oil is a nice addition,that way you can choose how the mod smells as well


My wife has quite a selection of those essential oils! 

Now I need a reo car holder! 
My current creation has broken and now I need to make the holder bigger to house a woodvil.


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## Andre

Christos said:


> So I noticed a significant drop in performance on the Woody, which incidentally my wife was calling woody so I temporarily dubbed her Jessie from toy story, where it felt like the battery was flat.
> I would change batteries only to see the batteries were 4.1V.
> I noticed that the positive contact plate - the L looking plate was getting extremely hot. Probably hotter than the atty coil!
> 
> A quick treat down of Jessie and a clean revealed a white caked substance around the positive contact.
> 
> I managed to clean it nicely and used some of my sons play things to get it right.
> 
> If anyone is wondering these pipe cleaners were bought at the crazy store and work marvelously well.
> 
> You can see some of the white residue on the feeding pin but it's slightly blurred.
> View attachment 38895
> 
> Needless to say she is working beautifully again!
> 
> I did feel sad yesterday when I had to use an aluminium reo as Jessie is now my go to mod.
> 
> Now I just need to buy some oil to take care of her innards!


This is what the modmaster recommends: http://www.takealot.com/my-butcher-s-block-clear-mineral-oil-340ml/PLID32710599

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## kevkev

@Andre Thanks. Here is a local supplier for Howard's:

http://www.tools4wood.co.za/product/butcher-block-cutting-board-oil/

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## Christos

Just wanted to find out if any of the woodvil users experience heat from the positive contract point that is just above the feed tube. 
I use noalax weekly and clean the positive pin as well as the positive contact point weekly but the situation seems to be deteriorating rapidly.

I unscrewed the bottom feed pin and cleaned it but I'm still getting excessive heat IF I put my finger on the contract plate during a depression of the button. 

The situation started when I put a dual coil on the nuppin at 0.3 ohms.

I've subsequently gone back to the cyclone at 0.5 ohms single coil but the problem persists. 

Any advice is welcomed. 
I'm starting to think I need to replace the positive contact pin and plate. 

Does @Oupa stock parts for the woodvil?


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## Rob Fisher

Never experienced that @Christos? I don't think @Oupa stocks parts for the new Woodvil. 

Hopefully one of the technical REO boffins may have some ideas?

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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Never experienced that @Christos? I don't think @Oupa stocks parts for the new Woodvil.
> 
> Hopefully one of the technical REO boffins may have some ideas?


It's very strange indeed. 
Happens with all three cyclones. 
I'm thinking tomorrow I should build a 1.2 ohm kanthal coil because I have been using SS.
I just re coiled all my attys a moment ago.
The heat is definately less from .3 to .5 ohms but it's still enough to burn the fingertips. 
@Oupa can i order woodvil spares on the next pre order?


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## Christos

I'm so very bummed about this. 
I just discovered the heat is also making the battery hot because of the close proximity. Just that one spot where the battery is closest to the plate. 
I'm sadly going to have to rest the woodvil until I figure this one out. Don't want to take any chances.


Luckily I recently got a backup device.


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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> I'm so very bummed about this.
> I just discovered the heat is also making the battery hot because of the close proximity. Just that one spot where the battery is closest to the plate.
> I'm sadly going to have to rest the woodvil until I figure this one out. Don't want to take any chances.
> 
> 
> Luckily I recently got a backup device.


Can you post a annotated photo?


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## Andre

Christos said:


> Just wanted to find out if any of the woodvil users experience heat from the positive contract point that is just above the feed tube.
> I use noalax weekly and clean the positive pin as well as the positive contact point weekly but the situation seems to be deteriorating rapidly.
> 
> I unscrewed the bottom feed pin and cleaned it but I'm still getting excessive heat IF I put my finger on the contract plate during a depression of the button.
> 
> The situation started when I put a dual coil on the nuppin at 0.3 ohms.
> 
> I've subsequently gone back to the cyclone at 0.5 ohms single coil but the problem persists.
> 
> Any advice is welcomed.
> I'm starting to think I need to replace the positive contact pin and plate.
> 
> Does @Oupa stock parts for the woodvil?


Hah, so I just tested mine. On the Purple Heart - not heat at all there. On the Zebra - as hot as hell.

Have been experiencing problems with the Zebra. Autofired (forgot to lock the button, which pressed against the side of the holder) in the cup holder in the car. Maybe some insulating material got damaged.

Think I shall retire the Zebra for the time being and send it to Reosmods for a service. Or can you service it @Genosmate?


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Can you post a annotated photo?


I will do so when I get a moment.


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## Christos

Andre said:


> Hah, so I just tested mine. On the Purple Heart - not heat at all there. On the Zebra - as hot as hell.
> 
> Have been experiencing problems with the Zebra. Autofired (forgot to lock the button, which pressed against the side of the holder) in the cup holder in the car. Maybe some insulating material got damaged.
> 
> Think I shall retire the Zebra for the time being and send it to Reosmods for a service. Or can you service it @Genosmate?


I suspect the 0.3 ohms build may have been the starting point but I did experience this a while back and on disassemble the 510 pin that connects to the feed the (just unscrewing the pin inside the woodvil) revealed a white gunky buildup that was affecting connectivity. 

I suspect it's more a high resistance issue inside that it is a faulty insulator.


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## Andre

Christos said:


> I suspect the 0.3 ohms build may have been the starting point but I did experience this a while back and on disassemble the 510 pin that connects to the feed the (just unscrewing the pin inside the woodvil) revealed a white gunky buildup that was affecting connectivity.
> 
> I suspect it's more a high resistance issue inside that it is a faulty insulator.


Thanks, shall check that out.


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## Christos

Andre said:


> Thanks, shall check that out.


If you find the contact points to look like they are deteriorating in terms of carbon build up then I think it's safe to assume that our woodvils need new contract pins and contact plates.


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## Andre

Christos said:


> If you find the contact points to look like they are deteriorating in terms of carbon build up then I think it's safe to assume that our woodvils need new contract pins and contact plates.


I think the white stuff on the screw threads where that tube nipple screws on is liquid plumber's tape. Read somewhere on ECF that Rob now puts that on to prevent leaking there.

EDIT: So I took it apart @Christos. Yeah, the white stuff is liquid plumber's tape - saw your picture earlier in this thread as well. Contact pin was still good and clean, but replaced it anyhow. Contact plate had lots of black on it - probably from that autofiring episode. Came off easily with an eraser, bar one little scar underneath where the pin strikes the plate I think. Used HRH's 4 step buffer thingie to get it better. Put it all together again. Hits as if new now. No heat when touching the contact plate when firing. Thank you for putting me on the path. Hope you get yours sorted. No service required @Genosmate.

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## Christos

Andre said:


> I think the white stuff on the screw threads where that tube nipple screws on is liquid plumber's tape. Read somewhere on ECF that Rob now puts that on to prevent leaking there.
> 
> EDIT: So I took it apart @Christos. Yeah, the white stuff is liquid plumber's tape - saw your picture earlier in this thread as well. Contact pin was still good and clean, but replaced it anyhow. Contact plate had lots of black on it - probably from that autofiring episode. Came off easily with an eraser, bar one little scar underneath where the pin strikes the plate I think. Used HRH's 4 step buffer thingie to get it better. Put it all together again. Hits as if new now. No heat when touching the contact plate when firing. Thank you for putting me on the path. Hope you get yours sorted. No service required @Genosmate.



Now reading that made me a little happier today.
Ive got the scar where it makes contact. I did try an eraser yesterday but the slight carbon buildup is still there. I will take ownership of HRH's nail compartment today as I know she has a few of those 4 in one buffing blocks.

Will give that a try tonight and report back. 
I did clean all the liquid plumbers tape and it doesnt leak. Perhaps she just needed a rest?

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## Andre

Christos said:


> Now reading that made me a little happier today.
> Ive got the scar where it makes contact. I did try an eraser yesterday but the slight carbon buildup is still there. I will take ownership of HRH's nail compartment today as I know she has a few of those 4 in one buffing blocks.
> 
> Will give that a try tonight and report back.
> I did clean all the liquid plumbers tape and it doesnt leak. Perhaps she just needed a rest?


Great stuff. When I started filing off that scar wondered by myself if the contact plate is also gold plated and I was busy taking off all the gold plating, but I think only the pin and spring are gold plated. The plate I think is brass or copper.

One of my metal Reos had a little moisture coming from where that nipple screws on. Could not find liquid plumber's tape anywhere. Used a minute piece of the normal stuff in the end - worked a charm.

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## Christos

So after getting inspiration from @Andre I asked HRH for a nail buffer which she gladly supplied and has allowed to to keep in my vape collection. My son has chewed the one end so it was being marked for disposal but gladly she didn't throw it away yet. 
Vape mail I guess. 



Into the repairs. Contact points for @Genosmate before any work done. 



You can see the scars so to speak on the contract plate. 

I had a spare reo contact so I cut it and drilled it to fit the woodvil. 

Also buffing happened on the contact plate and not the contract pin. 





The final result. 


I haven't tried the .3ohm build in the nuppin again just the .5 ohm cyclone but I'm happy to report that it's all working as it should again. 

I was really bummed for most of the day as I felt remorse for thinking I only really needed one reo and I even started looking at available tanks as backups because reos require patience to aquire. 

That being said I was reminded of the sadness I felt before when my favourite mods died and ended in the bin. 

This repair cost me a positive contact and some sweet taking HRH but I'm reminded what a wonderful mod the reo is as it's not really broken. It just needs some TLC occasionally.

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## Rob Fisher

Oh happy days! And OMG that is a beautiful Woodvil!

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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Oh happy days! And OMG that is a beautiful Woodvil!


Yes indeed! I believe she came from a big loving family. 
She just got a bit lonely today

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## Andre

Christos said:


> So after getting inspiration from @Andre I asked HRH for a nail buffer which she gladly supplied and has allowed to to keep in my vape collection. My son has chewed the one end so it was being marked for disposal but gladly she didn't throw it away yet.
> Vape mail I guess.
> View attachment 43135
> 
> 
> Into the repairs. Contact points for @Genosmate before any work done.
> View attachment 43136
> View attachment 43137
> 
> You can see the scars so to speak on the contract plate.
> 
> I had a spare reo contact so I cut it and drilled it to fit the woodvil.
> 
> Also buffing happened on the contact plate and not the contract pin.
> View attachment 43139
> View attachment 43140
> View attachment 43141
> 
> 
> The final result.
> View attachment 43142
> 
> I haven't tried the .3ohm build in the nuppin again just the .5 ohm cyclone but I'm happy to report that it's all working as it should again.
> 
> I was really bummed for most of the day as I felt remorse for thinking I only really needed one reo and I even started looking at available tanks as backups because reos require patience to aquire.
> 
> That being said I was reminded of the sadness I felt before when my favourite mods died and ended in the bin.
> 
> This repair cost me a positive contact and some sweet taking HRH but I'm reminded what a wonderful mod the reo is as it's not really broken. It just needs some TLC occasionally.


Great stuff. I was amazed that so little TLC could makes such a big difference.

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## Christos

All around the 510 there seems to be this burning effect taking place. I have found there is usually juice in the but Its not from the atty. It leaks out of the brass portion all around it and it's discolouring/charring the wood. Is this normal? 
P.S its tint to re coil as I've been running the same coil for over 6 weeks. 
Also for those with OCD I found the spare screws from vapedecadence work well unless you are using 2 new screws and then they make contact. Only or screw was stripped.


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## Papa_Lazarou

Looks to be juice that has leaked out and then cooked from heat from the atty. Does it wipe off (looks like you have a poly finish to this mod)?

Could you maybe take a shot of the 510 with the atty removed?


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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> Looks to be juice that has leaked out and then cooked from heat from the atty. Does it wipe off (looks like you have a poly finish to this mod)?
> 
> Could you maybe take a shot of the 510 with the atty removed?


Doesn't wipe out. Pics to follow as soon as Im back upstairs.


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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> Looks to be juice that has leaked out and then cooked from heat from the atty. Does it wipe off (looks like you have a poly finish to this mod)?
> 
> Could you maybe take a shot of the 510 with the atty removed?


Here ya go.
One with the 510 pulled out slightly and one with the 510 flat. Yes it's polly coated.
Apologies for the bad lighting but the power went off again. Last week power went out at midnight Wednesday and only came back on Friday. *sigh*


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## Rob Fisher

@Christos no pics?


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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> @Christos no pics?


Edited and attached. Sorry was busy swearing eskom under my breath and I forgot the pics.

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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> @Christos no pics?


I hate that city power never responds to my faults unless I ask if it's load shedding. They are quick to respond that there is no load shedding but the blackouts are occurring roughly the same time each week and last equally long. 
I guess Im just annoyed because I was punching in credit card details for my valley vapour purchase when the power cut and now the concentrate will probably be out of stock firstly when the power returns and secondly I was adjusting my basket for 2 hours so I'll have to redo my order and hopefully I'll remember what I decided to go with. 

P.S its raining so I'm in no mood to go turn the generator on and Im also trying to be considerate of my neighbours so I only run the generator after 8AM till 8PM when we do need it.


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## Papa_Lazarou

Hmmm... I've not seen that before, mate. It looks as though juice has leaked from the 510 into either the poly finish or the underlying wood and then discoloured from heat. I don't believe it's charred wood.

Did this happen in one event or build up over time?

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## Spydro

Christos said:


> All around the 510 there seems to be this burning effect taking place. I have found there is usually juice in the but Its not from the atty. It leaks out of the brass portion all around it and it's discolouring/charring the wood. Is this normal?
> P.S its tint to re coil as I've been running the same coil for over 6 weeks.
> Also for those with OCD I found the spare screws from vapedecadence work well unless you are using 2 new screws and then they make contact. Only or screw was stripped.
> 
> View attachment 48421



Sorry up front because I know that you won't like my opinion at all, but it's based on many decades of crafting exotic woods for particular products that were also subject to similar. It's something I have seen in wood vape gear before as well, and I even have a wood DT myself made by a very reputable craftsman of them that suffered the same when the seal between the wood and SS core was breached. So I think that e liquid has breached the bond between the poly finish and wood around the 510 and/or the glue itself that holds the 5i0 in allowing e liquid to soak into the cells/fiber of the wood and become rancid. If that is so, a possible fix is to remove the 510 assy completely, sand the top of the Woodvil deep enough to get it all out (or gouge it out and refill), reseal the wood and reglue the 510 in. The other bad news is that it is unhealthy as it is with rancid liquid embedded into the wood that possibly has also turned moldy.

As a sidebar without getting into all the ramifications of it... All wood is toxic to some degree naturally, some are very toxic, most gets more toxins added by sawyers, distributors, etc to protect it from insect damage and environmental conditions before it is imported or sold retail. If not properly protected those toxins can be health issues as well.

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## Christos

It's built up over time. 
Well the 510 has always been loose in the sense that it moved up and down. I guess that explains why it was so easy for the juice to seep between the 510 and the wood. 

I'll have to retire the mod until I get it fixed. 

Thanks for the input.


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## Papa_Lazarou

Christos said:


> It's built up over time.
> Well the 510 has always been loose in the sense that it moved up and down. I guess that explains why it was so easy for the juice to seep between the 510 and the wood.
> 
> I'll have to retire the mod until I get it fixed.
> 
> Thanks for the input.



Spydro has vast experience with wood, Christos. I'd be inclined to heed his advice. Given that the 510 slips, it's likely that the juice entered through the unpolied edges of the 510 mounting hole.

If you email Rob at reosmods, he might well have a fix he can apply if you'd like to go that route.

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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> Spydro has vast experience with wood, Christos. I'd be inclined to heed his advice. Given that the 510 slips, it's likely that the juice entered through the unpolied edges of the 510 mounting hole.
> 
> If you email Rob at reosmods, he might well have a fix he can apply if you'd like to go that route.



Thanks, I'm just sad I have to retire my reo for now.


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## Papa_Lazarou

Christos said:


> Thanks, I'm just sad I have to retire my reo for now.



Well, a couple of thoughts...

1) No such thing as a dead reo. It can be refit, by hook or by crook.

2) This is why we want/need backups. Nobody should suffer through lack of a reo in the house.

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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> Well, a couple of thoughts...
> 
> 1) No such thing as a dead reo. It can be refit, by hook or by crook.
> 
> 2) This is why we want/need backups. Nobody should suffer through lack of a reo in the house.


Just busy deciding if I really need a P67 or a grand LP. 
I already have spares for a grand.

Reactions: Can relate 1


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## Papa_Lazarou

Christos said:


> Just busy deciding if I really need a P67 or a grand LP.
> I already have spares for a grand.



I'd go for the P67, brother. The only thing that is bespoke for it in terms of available replacement parts is the firing pin and maybe the firing button. Springs, bottles, doors, and 510 accoutrements (pins, adjustment screws) are interchangeable between it and the grand. As Rob is slowing down, this might be a closing window to get a piece of reo history.


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## Rob Fisher

It's one of the reasons I tend to prefer metal REO's... I have sent two Woodies back to Rob's Spa for attention. Woodies are really beautiful but not as practical as Grands!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Spydro

Papa_Lazarou said:


> I'd go for the P67, brother.... As Rob is slowing down, this might be a closing window to get a piece of reo history.



I couldn't agree with @Papa_Lazarou more. If you think you'll want a P67 ever, there might not be a later.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Andre

Christos said:


> Just busy deciding if I really need a P67 or a grand LP.
> I already have spares for a grand.


Bad news about the Woodvil, @Christos. Maybe consult with Rob via email - you could probably sand it out, remove the poly finish from the whole setup and redo in an oil finish - but that is pure speculation on my part as I have no expertise in this regard. Maybe ask for some advice from @Genosmate - he is a wood expert and wooden mod maker of note. Might even be able to fix it for you - a local solution.

Another member and I have decided to go for the Grand LPs. With Rob's slowdown I do not see that Vapour Mountain will keep spares in future. Also means I do not have to keep spares for the P67, which are different to the other spares. And price of course. I am not a fan of the button on the P67, both for looks and safety. We went with the Economy LP Grands, which is substantially less expensive for only not having undergone a final tumbling.

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## Spydro

As @Rob Fisher alluded to Reo Woodies do need some extra care to protect the wood itself, they can be damaged easier from abuse or mishap than the metal Reos, but as wood mods go they are pretty well made. I don't baby any of my Reos, metal or wood. And I don't do maintenance on any of them as much as some folks do. The Woodies get wiped clean and brushed with Howards inside and out on a very loose 3 month schedule. They never see direct sunshine, but just from handling and use the wood will dry out over time and that opens the door for any joose that gets on them to get to the wood. I do all 9 at once while I have the stuff out... it doesn't take that long. The metals just get unceremoniously ran under a faucet, maybe brushed some if they ever need cleaning. Why I call them the KISS mods in comparison to the GP PAPS before them that had to taken completely apart and scrubbed with soapy water, dried, treated, etc every single week to keep them hitting hard. With 11 of them, a bunch of GP Herons, Spheriods and SnP tanks that all had to have the same maintenance and all reassembled. If they were all done at once it was most of a day's project.

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## Papa_Lazarou

Spydro said:


> As @Rob Fisher alluded to Reo Woodies do need some extra care to protect the wood itself, they can be damaged easier from abuse or mishap than the metal Reos, but as wood mods go they are pretty well made. I don't baby any of my Reos, metal or wood. And I don't do maintenance on any of them as much as some folks do. The Woodies get wiped clean and brushed with Howards inside and out on a very loose 3 month schedule. They never see direct sunshine, but just from handling and use the wood will dry out over time and that opens the door for any joose that gets on them to get to the wood. I do all 9 at once while I have the stuff out... it doesn't take that long. The metals just get unceremoniously ran under a faucet, maybe brushed some if they ever need cleaning. Why I call them the KISS mods in comparison to the GP PAPS before them that had to taken completely apart and scrubbed with soapy water, dried, treated, etc every single week to keep them hitting hard. With 11 of them, a bunch of GP Herons, Spheriods and SnP tanks that all had to have the same maintenance and all reassembled. If they were all done at once it was most of a day's project.



I get exhausted just hearing about the paps maintenance. 

I use howard's on the oil finish woodies, mineral oil for the interior of the poly coated ones.

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## Christos

Does anybody know or has anybody taken the 510 out of the woodvil before?

It looks like the charring is actually only the poly coat, so a mild sand and a polish will do the trick.
Im thinking of taking the whole reo apart so that I can sand it all and polish it all ensuring that after assembly there are no gaps for juice to enter the mod.


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## Rob Fisher

Christos said:


> Does anybody know or has anybody taken the 510 out of the woodvil before?
> 
> It looks like the charring is actually only the poly coat, so a mild sand and a polish will do the trick.
> Im thinking of taking the whole reo apart so that I can sand it all and polish it all ensuring that after assembly there are no gaps for juice to enter the mod.



Never done it and I personally would never attempt it... but as far as I know the 510 is pressure fitted so it may be possible to do that... but let's wait for some of the maintenance boffins to give advice.

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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Never done it and I personally would never attempt it... but as far as I know the 510 is pressure fitted so it may be possible to do that... but let's wait for some of the maintenance boffins to give advice.



The 510 is loose and comes up about 3 to 4 mm when pressed. I suspect this is how the juice got under the poly coat. I see inside there is a soldered wire to the 510. Im thinking this has to be removed for the 510 to slide out but Im playing on the side of caution and asking before I attempt anything.


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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> The 510 is loose and comes up about 3 to 4 mm when pressed. I suspect this is how the juice got under the poly coat. I see inside there is a soldered wire to the 510. Im thinking this has to be removed for the 510 to slide out but Im playing on the side of caution and asking before I attempt anything.


Just one wire to the 510?
Chances are you will have to get the wire/wires off the 510 in order to get it out of the way and allow you to work on the finish.
I'd bond that 510 in once you've finished and are sure you can re solder it when its in position.
Once you get that 510 out you can mask up the mod and just work on the damaged area,I'd drop a line to Rob and ask him (unless anyone else knows) what exactly is the finish on the mod,that way you'll be able to match it up.
Good luck with it.


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## Christos

Yup, just 1. The other makes contact via the plate and contact leaf. 

Any recommendations on the bonding agent? 
Something that can withstand heat and is fairly non toxic?


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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> Yup, just 1. The other makes contact via the plate and contact leaf.
> 
> Any recommendations on the bonding agent?
> Something that can withstand heat and is fairly non toxic?
> View attachment 49004


Oops I forgot its a mech switch.
Is there any chance you can loosen the positive plate and then unfix the spring?That way the 510 may push out and stay connected to the spring.Doesn't look like it but just a thought.
I'd use a small amount of epoxy to bond the 510,I think any brand would do,I doubt you have to worry about heat.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Oops I forgot its a mech switch.
> Is there any chance you can loosen the positive plate and then unfix the spring?That way the 510 may push out and stay connected to the spring.Doesn't look like it but just a thought.
> I'd use a small amount of epoxy to bond the 510,I think any brand would do,I doubt you have to worry about heat.


Ive taken the plate and bottom pin off before but it goes to a point and then doesnt move any more.
Ill perhaps give it a try this weekend.
Need to buy some fine sandpaper/ water paper.


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## Ernest

Christos said:


> Something that can withstand heat and is fairly non toxic?



Like @Genosmate said, most epoxy's can withstand temperatures up to 177 deg C and are nontoxic when cured. It will also seal the wood and fill tiny gaps that may be between the 510 and wood.

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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> Ive taken the plate and bottom pin off before but it goes to a point and then doesnt move any more.
> Ill perhaps give it a try this weekend.
> Need to buy some fine sandpaper/ water paper.


Just apply the tip of a soldering iron to the solder joint at the 510 and it should come off ,then you should be able to push the 510 out.
Personally I wouldn't use wet/dry paper for what you want to do,I'd try and find/use very fine sandpaper instead.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Just apply the tip of a soldering iron to the solder joint at the 510 and it should come off ,then you should be able to push the 510 out.
> Personally I wouldn't use wet/dry paper for what you want to do,I'd try and find/use very fine sandpaper instead.


The water paper is for another project where i would like to sand the steamcrave squonker down


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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> The water paper is for another project where i would like to sand the steamcrave squonker down


Sod that I'm too impatient I'd use paint stripper


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Sod that I'm too impatient I'd use paint stripper


Excellent Idea! I have a bottle of what the guy told me was the strongest paint stripper he has ever stocked in my garage that I never used. Was going to remove a 40 year old linoleum floor in my house. 
I got so tired of the floor that I just got the angle grinder out and put some heavy grit disks on a sanding pad and removed the linoleum, the glue beneath it and some of the screed on the floor 
Wife wasn't too happy about the sand storm i kicked up that day.

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## Ernest

Genosmate said:


> Just apply the tip of a soldering iron to the solder joint at the 510 and it should come off ,then you should be able to push the 510 out.
> Personally I wouldn't use wet/dry paper for what you want to do,I'd try and find/use very fine sandpaper instead.



I don't see him soldering the 510 after press fitting it, my guess would be it's press fitted from the inside after all soldering was done.


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## Genosmate

Ernest said:


> I don't see him soldering the 510 after press fitting it, my guess would be it's press fitted from the inside after all soldering was done.


I'd tend to agree if the wire was coming off the bottom of the 510 but it looks like its soldered on the side hence it would require some clearance to push the assembly thru which would negate a press fit.


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## Christos

Ernest said:


> I don't see him soldering the 510 after press fitting it, my guess would be it's press fitted from the inside after all soldering was done.


I think you are onto something.


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## Ernest

Genosmate said:


> I'd tend to agree if the wire was coming off the bottom of the 510 but it looks like its soldered on the side hence it would require some clearance to push the assembly thru which would negate a press fit.



That's why I say it was pressed from the inside, so taking it out you should then press it into the mod and not out.


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## Christos

It's a press fit from the top. I.e it comes out from the top.

Pics of the damage. Also I discovered the button comes out easily enough. Thinking a glow in the dark button will be nice. 

Still deciding if I should sand the entire mod down or just work the top portion. 

Anybody know what a safe poly coat would be here in SA?

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## Papa_Lazarou

Christos said:


> It's a press fit from the top. I.e it comes out from the top.
> 
> Pics of the damage. Also I discovered the button comes out easily enough. Thinking a glow in the dark button will be nice.
> 
> Still deciding if I should sand the entire mod down or just work the top portion.
> 
> Anybody know what a safe poly coat would be here in SA?
> View attachment 49172
> View attachment 49173
> View attachment 49174




Very interested to see this repair as it's happening.

Now, you'd mentioned that the leakage seemed to be confined to the polycoat. Looking at your 510 mounting well it looks as if there is some staining where there isn't poly (could just be an impression from the pic). If so, thoughts about that? Sand as best as possible and poly over to seal?


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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> Very interested to see this repair as it's happening.
> 
> Now, you'd mentioned that the leakage seemed to be confined to the polycoat. Looking at your 510 mounting well it looks as if there is some staining where there isn't poly (could just be an impression from the pic). If so, thoughts about that? Sand as best as possible and poly over to seal?



I suspect it went pear shaped because of the moving 510. This explains how the juice got in there. It looks like the polly coat is only for in the outside. 

The reason I'm so in love with the woodvil is because each one is so personal and so unique. 
I'm really looking forward to modifying her slightly. I'm starting to think I should sand it all down and just do away with the poly coat. 

Here's a pic after about 15 mins with some very fine grit sandpaper.



Getting there really slowly, but then again nothing worthwhile is easy.

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## Alex

Over the last two weekends I've been stripping the old varnish off some of the wooden doors here, and then re-doing them with linseed oil. Looks way better in my opinion. 

To strip the old finish, I used my heat gun and a scraper which works amazingly well. No damage to the underlying wood, and no messing about with paint stripper. If I was in your situation, that's the route I would try first.

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## Christos

Alex said:


> Over the last two weekends I've been stripping the old varnish off some of the wooden doors here, and then re-doing them with linseed oil. Looks way better in my opinion.
> 
> To strip the old finish, I used my heat gun and a scraper which works amazingly well. No damage to the underlying wood, and no messing about with paint stripper. If I was in your situation, that's the route I would try first.


I'm going with the no power tools and funny chemicals or heat. She is going to make my fingers really sore but I'm doing it all with hard elbow grease.
Mostly because I want no accidental damage.

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## Christos

About an hour and a half later. Done for the day as my fingers are now ready to relax. 
Don't think it will get better than this at the 510. Still some dark marks. Need to try and the inside where the 510 sits now. 

Also decided she looks better with no poly coat. 
She is more beautiful just bare. 

Still a long way to go as this is still the first rough sand. Need to sand it down properly, then 2 more Sands with increasing grit fineness until it's ready to buff and then oil.

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## Genosmate

Now you've decided to completely refinish it you can go the wet sanding route to get it really smooth,when you think it's done let it dry and then wipe the mod with a damp cloth to raise the grain let it dry again and then lightly dry sand to finish.what oil are you going to use?


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Now you've decided to completely refinish it you can go the wet sanding route to get it really smooth,when you think it's done let it dry and then wipe the mod with a damp cloth to raise the grain let it dry again and then lightly dry sand to finish.what oil are you going to use?


I was trying to buy some butchers block mineral oil a moment ago but the supplier is out of stock. 
Olive oil has crossed my mind but I don't know how it will be in the hand. 

Speaking of olive oil my 5l barrel is almost finished


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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> Very interested to see this repair as it's happening.
> 
> Now, you'd mentioned that the leakage seemed to be confined to the polycoat. Looking at your 510 mounting well it looks as if there is some staining where there isn't poly (could just be an impression from the pic). If so, thoughts about that? Sand as best as possible and poly over to seal?



Sorry, a bit slow tonight. It looks like the juice seeped under the poly coat and stained the wood. 
I don't think the stains will come out completely but the issue was actually beneath the poly coat. 
I'm just really excited to still use this mod as it is my favourite. A while back I had 2 reos and I sold them because I used the woodvil exclusively.

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## Ernest

Christos said:


> About an hour and a half later. Done for the day as my fingers are now ready to relax.
> Don't think it will get better than this at the 510. Still some dark marks. Need to try and the inside where the 510 sits now.
> 
> Also decided she looks better with no poly coat.
> She is more beautiful just bare.
> 
> Still a long way to go as this is still the first rough sand. Need to sand it down properly, then 2 more Sands with increasing grit fineness until it's ready to buff and then oil.
> View attachment 49184
> View attachment 49185
> View attachment 49186



Nice job, I also think a oil finish will be nice. Can you post a photo of the 510 showing where it was soldered?


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## Christos

Ernest said:


> Nice job, I also think a oil finish will be nice. Can you post a photo of the 510 showing where it was soldered?


It looks suspect as the wire wasn't actually soldered. I suspect the movement of the 510 caused the join to come undone over time but the mod still worked. Once I refit the 510 I'll drop solder into the join. 

P.S I've buffed the 510 slightly as I'm sure you know copper gets really dirty.

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## Genosmate

I think I once told you that you could use olive oil for the inside of the woodie but I wouldn't go that route for the whole mod.Personally I wouldn't use butchers block either.i'm pretty sure that at some point in their evolution woodvils were finished with tung oil maybe @Spydro or @Papa_Lazarou can help out here.i would suggest you take a look at Danish oil,there's lots or ways to use/apply it and it's less pt than tung oil.i can give you a link to an sa manufacturer if that's the way you would like to go

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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> I think I once told you that you could use olive oil for the inside of the woodie but I wouldn't go that route for the whole mod.Personally I wouldn't use butchers block either.i'm pretty sure that at some point in their evolution woodvils were finished with tung oil maybe @Spydro or @Papa_Lazarou can help out here.i would suggest you take a look at Danish oil,there's lots or ways to use/apply it and it's less pt than tung oil.i can give you a link to an sa manufacturer if that's the way you would like to go


I'll take any links to sa manufacturers/ stockists at this point. 

I know how to work with wood but I've never needed to go beyond the varnish.


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## JC Okie

I'm pretty sure that REO uses mineral oil on the inside, and Tung oil on the outside of the ones that aren't poly coated. He used to use Tung oil throughout, but early on people complained that the Tung oil on the inside of the mod affected the taste of the juice. Taste and smell are so interconnected that who knows what was going on. Anyway, he changed the inside to mineral oil after that one run. Just a little FYI.

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## JC Okie

Genosmate said:


> I think I once told you that you could use olive oil for the inside of the woodie but I wouldn't go that route for the whole mod.Personally I wouldn't use butchers block either.i'm pretty sure that at some point in their evolution woodvils were finished with tung oil maybe @Spydro or @Papa_Lazarou can help out here.i would suggest you take a look at Danish oil,there's lots or ways to use/apply it and it's less pt than tung oil.i can give you a link to an sa manufacturer if that's the way you would like to go


I didn't see this when I posted, but yes, he uses Tung oil for the outside and mineral oil for the inside. I found both at a furniture refinishing store.

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## Christos

JC Okie said:


> I'm pretty sure that REO uses mineral oil on the inside, and Tung oil on the outside of the ones that aren't poly coated. He used to use Tung oil throughout, but early on people complained that the Tung oil on the inside of the mod affected the taste of the juice. Taste and smell are so interconnected that who knows what was going on. Anyway, he changed the inside to mineral oil after that one run. Just a little FYI.


One of the reasons I like the woodvil so much is that it enhances the taste of my vape. It adds a kind of toasty full body oak taste. 
I believe it's Canadian maple.

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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> I'll take any links to sa manufacturers/ stockists at this point.
> 
> I know how to work with wood but I've never needed to go beyond the varnish.


I'll send it for you in the morning

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## JC Okie

Christos said:


> One of the reasons I like the woodvil so much is that it enhances the taste of my vape. It adds a kind of toasty full body oak taste.
> I believe it's Canadian maple.


@Christos, I agree with you about the taste. I prefer my Woodvils over anything, and I agree they affect the taste. Since taste and smell are so connected, I'm not sure if it actually does change the taste or if I just _think_ it does....but either way, Woodvils are my favorite REOs because of it...among other things. (I love they way they feel in my hand.)

You're doing a beautiful job with this baby, and I think it'll be even prettier when you finish than it ever was with the poly coating. I love the natural finish.

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## JC Okie

Christos said:


> About an hour and a half later. Done for the day as my fingers are now ready to relax.
> Don't think it will get better than this at the 510. Still some dark marks. Need to try and the inside where the 510 sits now.
> 
> Also decided she looks better with no poly coat.
> She is more beautiful just bare.
> 
> Still a long way to go as this is still the first rough sand. Need to sand it down properly, then 2 more Sands with increasing grit fineness until it's ready to buff and then oil.
> View attachment 49184
> View attachment 49185
> View attachment 49186


Look at the grain of that wood in the top picture! That is going to just pop with some oil on it. I can't wait to see the finished REO.

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## Christos

JC Okie said:


> @Christos, I agree with you about the taste. I prefer my Woodvils over anything, and I agree they affect the taste. Since taste and smell are so connected, I'm not sure if it actually does change the taste or if I just _think_ it does....but either way, Woodvils are my favorite REOs because of it...among other things. (I love they way they feel in my hand.)
> 
> You're doing a beautiful job with this baby, and I think it'll be even prettier when you finish than it ever was with the poly coating. I love the natural finish.


I wasn't actually going to redo her but once I felt the bare wood I couldn't leave the poly coat on anymore. 

She really is beautiful without the poly coat.

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## Papa_Lazarou

Christos said:


> I believe it's Canadian maple.



Why, that's the best kind.

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## Spydro

Genosmate said:


> I think I once told you that you could use olive oil for the inside of the woodie but I wouldn't go that route for the whole mod.Personally I wouldn't use butchers block either.i'm pretty sure that at some point in their evolution woodvils were finished with tung oil maybe @Spydro or @Papa_Lazarou can help out here.i would suggest you take a look at Danish oil,there's lots or ways to use/apply it and it's less pt than tung oil.i can give you a link to an sa manufacturer if that's the way you would like to go



I know Reosmods used mineral oil on the inside of the Woodvil's, probably teak or tung oil on the outside. I use Howard's Sun Shield on all of mine both inside and outside. With over the counter wood finishes, wood species plays a roll in which ones work the best on a given species. Some woods and not oily, some are very oily and the wrong finishes may never dry to a hard coat on them. Information on-line from a search can be your guide about wood species and the wood finishes to use on them. But if your Woodie is not damaged and just needs a sprucing up, liquid wax finishes like the one I use, Renaissance wax that many folks also use are all you need to preserve/protect it. I have a set of artists brushes I use to get ii in every nook and cranny, let it soak in for a time then remove the excess and give it a quick buff with a soft cloth.

All woods are toxic to some degree, some species and the higher grades of many more species can be very toxic. And they get treated with even more toxic wood preservatives by jobbers, distributors, etc that are the "middle men" before the woods get to the retail market. I crafted custom wood animal calls for over 50 years from most of the species of woods worldwide that had high grade figure, color, etc. So I bought most of my woods direct from sawyers in the places where they grew and imported them to the US. All the later years I made my own finishes from scratch using 100% pure ingredients, gave them 20 coats because I was only using high exhibition grade woods then that would by default be more toxic. Important to me because they would go in mouths, be slobbered on, chewed on, etc.

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## Spydro

JC Okie said:


> I'm pretty sure that REO uses mineral oil on the inside, and Tung oil on the outside of the ones that aren't poly coated. He used to use Tung oil throughout, but early on people complained that the Tung oil on the inside of the mod affected the taste of the juice. Taste and smell are so interconnected that who knows what was going on. Anyway, he changed the inside to mineral oil after that one run. Just a little FYI.



JC, you came and conquered while I was typing a long post (with my required breaks).  So good to see you posting some.

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## JC Okie

Spydro said:


> JC, you came and conquered while I was typing a long post (with my required breaks).  So good to see you posting some.


LOL @Spydro, you snooze (or take breaks); you lose. Ha good to see you.

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## Christos

About 2 hours ago. 
The door is still poly coated to see the difference.

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## Christos

This is me for the night. 

I have used the finest grit I have but I would still like to spend another 2 hours getting all the sand marks out with a fine grit. 

For future reference, I recommend sanding with the door on because I had sanded away about 2mm so the door had a nasty overhang I had to focus on. 

The last thing that needs to happen and I don't have a precision drill press to do this is increase the counter sunk depth so the 510 can sit flush. 

I have a set of carving and sculpting knives that I'll probably use to increase the depth do the 510 can sit flush but this is highly precision work so it will probably take me a good 3 hours or so.

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## Spydro

JC Okie said:


> LOL @Spydro, you snooze (or take breaks); you lose. Ha good to see you.



You know me, I have to get my coffee fixes... often. Had to break to grind beans, wait for a big mug of piping hot, drink it and get another before I could finish the post I started.

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## Christos

Spydro said:


> You know me, I have to get my coffee fixes... often. Had to break to grind beans, wait for a big mug of piping hot, drink it and get another before I could finish the post I started.


Well, I think I broke a record tonight for the last amount of bourbons in 1 sitting.
I only had 5. 
I'll probably have a terrible headache in the morning as I the amount I drink is usually inversely proportional to the severity of the headache.

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## Spydro

Christos said:


> Well, I think I broke a record tonight for the last amount of bourbons in 1 sitting.
> I only had 5.
> I'll probably have a terrible headache in the morning as I the amount I drink is usually inversely proportional to the severity of the headache.



Reminds me of the day I mustered out of the Navy 45 years ago in San Francisco. The Captain gave me a whole case of Seagram Crown Royal to muster out with. All my shipmates came, and all of them did just one toast with me. When I came to the next morning on the floor the bottles were all empty, so assume I drank half of the case. The plus side is that I never got hangovers. So I was go to go, grabbed the wife and jumped in the buggy, drove south down the coast to Carmel where we were going to live and leased a house. Two days later after rounding up all our belongings scattered in two distant places we lived there. I'd do it again in a heartbeat to live in Carmel again as a bachelor this time around.

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## Christos

Spydro said:


> Reminds me of the day I mustered out of the Navy 45 years ago in San Francisco. The Captain gave me a whole case of Seagram Crown Royal to muster out with. All my shipmates came, and all of them did just one toast with me. When I came to the next morning on the floor the bottles were all empty, so assume I drank half of the case. The plus side is that I never got hangovers. So I was go to go, grabbed the wife and jumped in the buggy, drove south down the coast to Carmel where we were going to live and leased a house. Two days later after rounding up all our belongings scattered in two distant places we lived there. I'd do it again in a heartbeat to live in Carmel again as a bachelor this time around.


As much as I would enjoy being a bachelor again, I can honestly say that sharing the joys and beauty of this earth with another doesn't compare to enjoying them by oneself. 
There is a great unspoken joy in sharing.

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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> This is me for the night.
> 
> I have used the finest grit I have but I would still like to spend another 2 hours getting all the sand marks out with a fine grit.
> 
> For future reference, I recommend sanding with the door on because I had sanded away about 2mm so the door had a nasty overhang I had to focus on.
> 
> The last thing that needs to happen and I don't have a precision drill press to do this is increase the counter sunk depth so the 510 can sit flush.
> 
> I have a set of carving and sculpting knives that I'll probably use to increase the depth do the 510 can sit flush but this is highly precision work so it will probably take me a good 3 hours or so.
> 
> View attachment 49205
> View attachment 49206
> View attachment 49207
> View attachment 49208


Looks good so far.
Here is the link to the Company I buy from http://www.thewoodcarecompany.co.za,they are also the only place I could find in SA that have proper tung oil if thats what you decide to use.
If you decide to go the Danish Oil route then try and check a few videos on how to apply it,there are many methods and if you watch some vids you'll get a feel for which is best for you.
I don't know how much material you've sanded off the mod,before you take any material out of the 510 housing just check that by taking material out of there that the button/firing assembly won't be compromised by doing so.
You'll be lowering the 510 in relation to the button/firing leaf if you do this step.

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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Looks good so far.
> Here is the link to the Company I buy from http://www.thewoodcarecompany.co.za,they are also the only place I could find in SA that have proper tung oil if thats what you decide to use.
> If you decide to go the Danish Oil route then try and check a few videos on how to apply it,there are many methods and if you watch some vids you'll get a feel for which is best for you.
> I don't know how much material you've sanded off the mod,before you take any material out of the 510 housing just check that by taking material out of there that the button/firing assembly won't be compromised by doing so.
> You'll be lowering the 510 in relation to the button/firing leaf if you do this step.


I've already thought about this but so deciding if I should shorten the firing leaf or just leave it as is. The firing leaf is already modified from a grand firing leaf. 
I'll watch a few vids and get back to you.


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Looks good so far.
> Here is the link to the Company I buy from http://www.thewoodcarecompany.co.za,they are also the only place I could find in SA that have proper tung oil if thats what you decide to use.
> If you decide to go the Danish Oil route then try and check a few videos on how to apply it,there are many methods and if you watch some vids you'll get a feel for which is best for you.
> I don't know how much material you've sanded off the mod,before you take any material out of the 510 housing just check that by taking material out of there that the button/firing assembly won't be compromised by doing so.
> You'll be lowering the 510 in relation to the button/firing leaf if you do this step.


I'm liking the Danish Oil over tung oil. Say a nice finish done with tru oil as well. I'm wondering if the epoxy will hold if I use oil on the wood in the hole before I glue the 510 or if I should glue and seal and then oil.


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## Christos

https://www.blackbeardsden.co.za/co...oducts/tru-oil-stock-finish?variant=921854417


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## Christos

As an afterthought @Genosmate I'll assemble some time today to check how much play I have with the firing leaf. 

Measure twice cut once right?

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## Christos

So whilst deciding between tru oil or Danish oil I spent about 3 hours carefully cuting away. 
I did consider buying a drill press for this but I'm really more of a hand tools kind of person although it did take me 3 hours and this could have been done in 5 mins with the right power tools. 

Need to do the final sand and then buff the wood before using epoxy to get everything in place and oiling this beauty.

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## Andre

Christos said:


> So whilst deciding between tru oil or Danish oil I spent about 3 hours carefully cuting away.
> I did consider buying a drill press for this but I'm really more of a hand tools kind of person although it did take me 3 hours and this could have been done in 5 mins with the right power tools.
> 
> Need to do the final sand and then buff the wood before using epoxy to get everything in place and oiling this beauty.
> 
> View attachment 49588
> View attachment 49590
> View attachment 49591


Looking great. If I remember correctly Rob from Reosmods just uses superglue to hold the 510 in place. And for the 2015 Woodvils he used mineral oil, inside and outside.


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## Christos

Andre said:


> Looking great. If I remember correctly Rob from Reosmods just uses superglue to hold the 510 in place. And for the 2015 Woodvils he used mineral oil, inside and outside.


I've already bought epoxy that can withstand 180 degrees celcius and I'm aiming for the finish seen on most guitars. I believe tru oil is used for this. 
Just need to get the wood silky smooth before I apply oil to it as I want it to be a showpiece to my hands and mouth.

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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> I've already bought epoxy that can withstand 180 degrees celcius and I'm aiming for the finish seen on most guitars. I believe tru oil is used for this.
> Just need to get the wood silky smooth before I apply oil to it as I want it to be a showpiece to my hands and mouth.


Looks good so far,either oil will work when it's finished and ready to apply, personally I'd finish the wood before using the epoxy to bond the fittings,the finishes you are considering are penetrative type and not surface coatings so you won't be bonding to a finish but rather the substrate.

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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Looks good so far,either oil will work when it's finished and ready to apply, personally I'd finish the wood before using the epoxy to bond the fittings,the finishes you are considering are penetrative type and not surface coatings so you won't be bonding to a finish but rather the substrate.


That is exactly the information and aquired knowledge I was after. 
Thanks. I was worried the epoxy wouldn't work but I really wanted to oil the area where the 510 sits.


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## Genosmate

Christos said:


> That is exactly the information and aquired knowledge I was after.
> Thanks. I was worried the epoxy wouldn't work but I really wanted to oil the area where the 510 sits.


You're welcome,you obviously have the patience and skill to do it right so just give it time between finishing the oil and bonding the fittings and it will be fine


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## Spydro

Christos said:


> So whilst deciding between tru oil or Danish oil I spent about 3 hours carefully cuting away.
> I did consider buying a drill press for this but I'm really more of a hand tools kind of person although it did take me 3 hours and this could have been done in 5 mins with the right power tools.
> 
> Need to do the final sand and then buff the wood before using epoxy to get everything in place and oiling this beauty.
> 
> View attachment 49588
> View attachment 49590
> View attachment 49591



All that hand work should make the finished product even more special to you. You have earned it.

If that was my Woodie @Christos I'd probably give it many hand rubbed coats of tung oil to build the finish to an amber glow. But if you want to keep it light and bright, dewaxed shellac is basically a clear coat that will protect the wood. It doesn't have enough extras to highlight to try to get too fancy with the finish IMO.

The Woodvil's Robert (Reosmods) made could have been easily finished properly with tung oil or teak oil depending on the wood species. He did use tung oil out and mineral oil in mostly, but chose to poly coat many of them instead. Finish is personal preference though. 

When the grade of the wood has it all, like this 5A exhibition grade maple stock that has it all and then some, it deserves all the extra work it got. I still have 3 stock blanks of this stuff I got 15-16 years ago from what turned out to be a very special tree a sawyer friend harvested in the PNW.

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## Christos

The oil has arrived! 
Now to find the time to get to it. I was hoping to give it a first coat today but luck is not on my side today.

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## Papa_Lazarou

Christos said:


> The oil has arrived!
> Now to find the time to get to it. I was hoping to give it a first coat today but luck is not on my side today.
> View attachment 50364



You planning on using the stain, too?

Love watching this repair/restoration, BTW. Again, REO's for the win. What other mod is this maintainable by a capable/interested citizen and so gorgeous when finished (which I'm sure this one is gonna be)?

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## Christos

Papa_Lazarou said:


> You planning on using the stain, too?
> 
> Love watching this repair/restoration, BTW. Again, REO's for the win. What other mod is this maintainable by a capable/interested citizen and so gorgeous when finished (which I'm sure this one is gonna be)?


No, i was only going to get the tru oil but decided to get the kit because it contains finer sandpaper than I have bought and it also comes with a buffing cloth (I think).

I also think if Im not happy with the finish I can always use sheen and conditioner to make it shinier than a freshly buffed mirror.

Edit: You have given me an Idea now. Perhaps I should stain the door.
Edit #2: Looking at some quick stain and wipe effects on the internet and now Im thinking a stain would be very nice to accentuate the grain of the wood. Im still thinking natural is probably what Im going to go for.


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## Christos

I'm really confused now. 
I'm strongly considering a coat of stain and a quick wipe to accentuate the grain. 
Any ideas or suggestions?


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## Christos

So the final sand has happened and this thing feels like silk. 

Next step is the steel wool rub and the buff with a buffing cloth followed by a coat of stain or a coat of oil. Really don't know what to do as I would like to bring out the grain but I don't want to make the mod darker. 
Also I think I like a single tone throught. 
I've made the woodvil a little curvier, note the squonk hole is curved slightly now.

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## Andre

No stain please - keep it natural.

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## Christos

Andre said:


> No stain please - keep it natural.


I was very conflicted and apprehensive with the stain. Thanks for that. My mind is made up.

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## Rob Fisher

Yes for sure natural... that piece deserves to stay natural!

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## Genosmate

If you really still consider the stain idea then test it on the inside of the mod,I doubt it will make the grain 'pop' though!
Please don't attack the mod with steel wool,if you've prepared it properly you may even rough it again doing this,again just check on the back of the door first.


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> If you really still consider the stain idea then test it on the inside of the mod,I doubt it will make the grain 'pop' though!
> Please don't attack the mod with steel wool,if you've prepared it properly you may even rough it again doing this,again just check on the back of the door first.



It's fine steel wool that came with the tru oil kit  honestly it didn't make a difference except it clogged up the magnets with little metal filings. 

First coat.

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## Christos

Internals got oiled too.

I'll apply a new layer daily for the next 4 or 5 days and reveal the finished wood then.

After just one coat it's beginning to look the way it did when I got it so I suspect 3 layers might be enough and ill oil it once a month going forward.

Once the oil is dry I'll reassemble and solder the connections and epoxy the 510 in place.

The gold button will be replaced by a silver one.

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## Papa_Lazarou

I went for lunch and missed my window to say "Don't stain!", but it looks like you got there in the end with some help.

The natural grain and colouring of this mod deserves to shine, IMHO. Good job - she's looking very perky (and who doesn't like perky?).

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## Rob Fisher

I love perky!

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## Christos

Ok last photos for the day. 
Turned the flash on so we can see the shine. I know the oil is still wet but the pics don't do the mod any justice. 
I am impressed.

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## Papa_Lazarou

Lovely work, brother. Really

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## Rob Fisher

She is looking so sweet again! Good job @Christos!

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## Christos

Coat #3 had been applied. This wood is thirsty! 

Going to wait for it to dry then use a buffing cloth on it, clean her up again, followed by the final coat. Then wait a day or 2 and re assemble.

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## Christos

Pics as of this morning with the dry oil.
She is so bright she hurts my eyes.
The wood has indeed come alive.

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## Papa_Lazarou

Aw, all shiny and clean like a newborn babe. Well, after the newborn babe's first bath, I suppose.

Awesome work

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## Christos

I'm really getting impatient now and I would like to re assemble but I have that voice at the back of my mind saying "it needs to be shinier , add another coat!"

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## Andre

Christos said:


> I'm really getting impatient now and I would like to re assemble but I have that voice at the back of my mind saying "it needs to be shinier , add another coat!"


Ok, one last coat! That is it!

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## Christos

Slightly off topic but I've been exploring ideas as to how the juice got into my woodvil in the first place. 
I have tested the 510 and it doesn't leak.
I've been using the nuppin for a day now and thinking of a post @Silver made with the nuppin leak on the side and I discover my nuppin also leaks! 
I did use the nuppin for about 4 days on the woodvil so I think this is the culprit. 

Not too clear but there is a ring of juice around the nuppin. It's easy to see how on taking this thing apart daily and washing it one would miss the leak as it's so small.

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## Spydro

If liquid gets on a Woodvil it's not as much of an issue as long as it doesn't find a way to make direct contact with the wood. IMO the main culprit was a way for liquid to seep in between the wax/finish/glue/etc and contact raw wood. Would be same with plain water as with eliquid as it too will rot wood moldy in time if not corrected.

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## Christos

Spydro said:


> If liquid gets on a Woodvil it's not as much of an issue as long as it doesn't find a way to make direct contact with the wood. IMO the main culprit was a way for liquid to seep in between the wax/finish/glue/etc and contact raw wood. Would be same with plain water as with eliquid as it too will rot wood moldy in time if not corrected.


I should have been more suspicious when I discovered the 510 was loose.
At the time the mod was so beautiful I was scared to attempt anything in the fear I break it. 

I agree though, time and juice along the outsides of the 510 went unnoticed for too long!


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## Christos

I'll just leave this here. 
Think I should wait a few days for the oil to cure properly.

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## Ernest

Christos said:


> I should have been more suspicious when I discovered the 510 was loose.
> At the time the mod was so beautiful I was scared to attempt anything in the fear I break it.
> 
> I agree though, time and juice along the outsides of the 510 went unnoticed for too long!



In the end you'll have a special attachment to her, because of all the work and care that went into it. This thread will also help a lot of us when one day we have to cross that bridge.

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## Christos

Ernest said:


> In the end you'll have a special attachment to her, because of all the work and care that went into it. This thread will also help a lot of us when one day we have to cross that bridge.


She was my favourite mod before she had any "work done". So did I put so much effort because she was my favourite or is she going to be my favourite because of all the work. 
Chicken and egg dilemma 

The idea for this thread was to enlighten newbie woodvil users to what needs to happen as these devices are not run of the mill devices. I certainly learned a lot from our experienced woodvil guys. Hopefully no one ever had to endure a woodvil sand and re-do.

Moral of the story keep a close eye on your woodvil and wax/oil her regularly.

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## Papa_Lazarou

She's gorgeous.

Plus, now she has stories to tell. Always adds character, that.

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## Spydro

Nice job @Christos.
I found a picture of a wood vape gear failure I had around 2 years ago, a DT. Brian at DTD made this for me. Burl over a less than full length SS core with a cap where the glue that bonded the cap to wood failed internally and let juice enriched vapor seep into the woods end grain. After clean up with PGA had completely aired out, I could get a whiff of moldy smell coming from it. Black mold is as not good at all if it is Stachybotrys. Not all black mold is, but it is not worth taking the chance and was not worth trying to fix a $45 tip.

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## Rob Fisher

Is she operational yet @Christos?

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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Is she operational yet @Christos?
> View attachment 50682


Not yet. 
The shine and conditioner oil says wait 7 days for the oil to cure properly.

I have waited 48 hours since the last coat so I might just give the buff today.

Once I re-assemble the epoxy on the 510 should take a few hours but I'm going to wait about 2 days before I fire her up.

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## Christos

Thanks for the nudge with the picture of the woodvil before I destroyed her @Rob Fisher.

So soldering the 510 was a b!t€#. Used an old chisel to divert heat from the wood.
I found what worked was to put solder into the 510 and then attach the wire.
Flux was useless.





Added a whole lot of epoxy so there won't be any leaks in the future down the 510. I only wish my epoxy skills were better so I could get a smooth finish. The epoxy can be sanded so I might add a layer in a few months and sand around the 510 but I don't have the precision tools for this yet.




Onto the internals.



The end product.
I haven't decided if im going to keep the silver button or just Polish the old gold one.




Now to wait 6 hours for the epoxy to dry.
I might just fire her up tonight.

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## Rob Fisher

Christos said:


> Thanks for the nudge with the picture of the woodvil before I destroyed her @Rob Fisher.
> 
> So soldering the 510 was a b!t€#. Used an old chisel to divert heat from the wood.
> I found what worked was to put solder into the 510 and then attach the wire.
> Flux was useless.
> View attachment 50721
> 
> View attachment 50720
> 
> 
> Added a whole lot of epoxy so there won't be any leaks in the future down the 510. I only wish my epoxy skills were better so I could get a smooth finish. The epoxy can be sanded so I might add a layer in a few months and sand around the 510 but I don't have the precision tools for this yet.
> View attachment 50722
> 
> View attachment 50723
> 
> Onto the internals.
> View attachment 50724
> 
> 
> The end product.
> I haven't decided if im going to keep the silver button or just Polish the old gold one.
> View attachment 50725
> View attachment 50726
> 
> 
> Now to wait 6 hours for the epoxy to dry.
> I might just fire her up tonight.



I am humbled by you MacGyver skills... if I attempted something like that I would be left with a 510 connection and a pile of fire wood!

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## Genosmate

Rob Fisher said:


> I am humbled by you MacGyver skills... if I attempted something like that I would be left with a 510 connection and a pile of fire wood!


Nope you'd stuff the 510 up as well

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## Andre

Christos said:


> Thanks for the nudge with the picture of the woodvil before I destroyed her @Rob Fisher.
> 
> So soldering the 510 was a b!t€#. Used an old chisel to divert heat from the wood.
> I found what worked was to put solder into the 510 and then attach the wire.
> Flux was useless.
> View attachment 50721
> 
> View attachment 50720
> 
> 
> Added a whole lot of epoxy so there won't be any leaks in the future down the 510. I only wish my epoxy skills were better so I could get a smooth finish. The epoxy can be sanded so I might add a layer in a few months and sand around the 510 but I don't have the precision tools for this yet.
> View attachment 50722
> 
> View attachment 50723
> 
> Onto the internals.
> View attachment 50724
> 
> 
> The end product.
> I haven't decided if im going to keep the silver button or just Polish the old gold one.
> View attachment 50725
> View attachment 50726
> 
> 
> Now to wait 6 hours for the epoxy to dry.
> I might just fire her up tonight.


Great work. Keep the silver button imo - compliments the silver Cyclops.

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## Christos

Andre said:


> Great work. Keep the silver button imo - compliments the silver Cyclops.


I was going to go with a glow in the dark button but HRH would have me shot if I did. 
Worst of all she refused to pour me drinks if I went for a glow in the dark button.

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## Christos

Just for the record, the bottle fits perfectly. If you are going to sand be mindful of not taking too much off the top. I tried to take as much off to get rid of the wood rot. I got most of it.

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