# Cheapest place to get some decent batts



## Aydhin (26/11/14)

Anybody know the cheapest place to order some batts before december? 18650s for my cana thats incoming!


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## Dubz (26/11/14)

Vapeclub http://www.vapeclub.co.za/collections/batteries-and-chargers


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## Aydhin (26/11/14)

Shot alot. Think ill go with the 3100mah


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## Dubz (26/11/14)

No problem. If you going to vape over 30watts I would recommend the 2500mah as it has a 35amp discharge vs the 20amp of the 3100mah


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## Aydhin (26/11/14)

Thanks for the advice. I want to get into dripping and rebuilding now. So the route of the 2500mah sounds to be better. Just hope batterys will last


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## Dubz (26/11/14)

No problem. Enjoy your new MOD!


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## Aydhin (26/11/14)

Thanks again for the advice mat3

Reactions: Like 1


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## Andre (26/11/14)

Dubz said:


> No problem. If you going to vape over 30watts I would recommend the 2500mah as it has a 35amp discharge vs the 20amp of the 3100mah


Excellent advice. Just remember the ratings on the battery are for pulse discharge and not continuous discharge, which is the more important one for us. The continuous discharge for the 3100 is 10 amp and for the 2500 is 20 amp, which should be ample.


Aydhin said:


> Thanks for the advice. I want to get into dripping and rebuilding now. So the route of the 2500mah sounds to be better. Just hope batterys will last


For sure, the 2500s are the ones to go for for your Cana.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## johan (26/11/14)

I see that the various battery manufactures (including Efest) standardize that pulse discharge rating refer to smaller or equal to 1 second in time.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## DoubleD (26/11/14)

Andre said:


> Excellent advice. Just remember the ratings on the battery are for pulse discharge and not continuous discharge, which is the more important one for us. The continuous discharge for the 3100 is 10 amp and for the 2500 is 20 amp, which should be ample.
> 
> For sure, the 2500s are the ones to go for for your Cana.



Im not following lekker here, what coil and watt set up is needed for a 10 amp draw/current?

Edit: or I should ask, If I wanted to replace my istick battery would the 10A efest be sufficient? (the reason Im confused is because I thought the dna 30 had a 10 amp limit?)


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## JakesSA (26/11/14)

The iStick electronics allow for a minimum of 1 Ohm or a a maximum of 20 watts so the 3100 20A battery is the better option here purely because it has larger capacity and is well suited to that current consumption.

Rule of thumb, up to 30 watt use the 3100, higher than that use the 2500. Exception to this rule, if you going to run your mod at 30W constantly use the 2500, it will have a longer life span.

I have mentioned this before but in case anyone is interested, the 35A marking on the 2500 Efest comes from the spec sheet for that battery which is an LG 18650 HE2. In the short circuit test they ran the battery at 0.1 Ohm for one hour, result "No explosion, No fire". Here is the spec sheet, see point 4.5.2. The calculation for the 35A looks like it was done at or close to the nominal voltage e.g. 3.6V. The specification for testing Lithium batteries which is quoted in the aforementioned specification is UL1642, a copy can be found here. Makes for an interesting read if you are so inclined.

Does this mean you can vape with the 2500 Efest battery at 0.1 Ohm? Not so much ... the voltage drop is far too high which will detract from the vaping experience and your charge cycles will be drastically reduced. I can guarantee that the battery used in the test above was not rechargeable afterwards...

Disclaimer: I am a vendor of these batteries and therefore my views may be biased, even if only subconsciously so.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thanks 1


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## Andre (26/11/14)

DoubleD said:


> Im not following lekker here, what coil and watt set up is needed for a 10 amp draw/current?
> 
> Edit: or I should ask, If I wanted to replace my istick battery would the 10A efest be sufficient? (the reason Im confused is because I thought the dna 30 had a 10 amp limit?)


The original advice from @Dubz was for over 30W, which I elaborated on. In addition to @JakesSA's info above, for regulated mods you have to consider the limiting factors always - see this post by @johan. Of course, if something goes wrong with the electronics (e.g. the 10A limit is overridden in some way) you might be in for a surprise. Personally, I always try to use the safest battery for all devices, even if it might be an overkill.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## BumbleBee (26/11/14)

I'm curious about something here, if I were to run the efest 3100 in a regulated mod at say 50W what would happen? Would the battery explode or would the circuitry prevent too much current being drawn from the battery?


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## JW Flynn (26/11/14)

BumbleBee said:


> I'm curious about something here, if I were to run the efest 3100 in a regulated mod at say 50W what would happen? Would the battery explode or would the circuitry prevent too much current being drawn from the battery?


It depends on the build you put on it... with lower Ohm builds you are going to require more Amps from the battery... big difference for instance between a 1.5 ohm coil and a .5 ohm coil....

This site in the link, is pretty damn good at working it all out for you, check it out... http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp It gives you a wide verity of options here, even has the popular mods on there, and this way you know you are keeping yourself in a safe range for your device... 

For instance

Theoretical coil build on a 26650 Efest (32A constant draw and 64A burst ( no more than 7 seconds)) the lowest you want to go on this is....
0.1 Ohm build with the battery on it's nominal voltage of 3.7 Volts it will draw 37 Amps (so remember not to run for longer than 7 seconds,you run the risk of damaging your battery)

and now the shocking bit.. going even lower, still risky and I would not 100% recommend this, lol, going down to 0.06 Ohm, raises the Amps ALLOT!!! you end up drawing 61.67 Amps... this is even on the limit of the battery's recommended burst current!!! 

So be careful!! you can actually end up hurting yourself... but By using the tools available, you can save yourself the trouble of having to get new batts... and the possibility of personal injury!!1

The one thing to remember, do not cheap out on your batts... and use them wisely!!!


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## JakesSA (26/11/14)

BumbleBee said:


> I'm curious about something here, if I were to run the efest 3100 in a regulated mod at say 50W what would happen? Would the battery explode or would the circuitry prevent too much current being drawn from the battery?



The circuitry will draw as much as it can, it's unaware of what the battery can/should deliver. Your mod will start heating up fairly quickly.

The thing to understand is that with the relatively short 'on' times for vaping these batteries will still operate when discharged beyond specification but you are damaging the batteries life span. However, take heed of what @Andre is saying and try to build in a margin for error. The risk of a 'locked on' fire button condition is really where the danger lies especially if it happens unbeknownst (finally I get to use that word!!) to the operator.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## JW Flynn (26/11/14)

JW Flynn said:


> It depends on the build you put on it... with lower Ohm builds you are going to require more Amps from the battery... big difference for instance between a 1.5 ohm coil and a .5 ohm coil....
> 
> This site in the link, is pretty damn good at working it all out for you, check it out... http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp It gives you a wide verity of options here, even has the popular mods on there, and this way you know you are keeping yourself in a safe range for your device...
> 
> ...


oh, and if it's a regulated mod, you don't have to worry, you should be safe as the device should not fire if you have to much of a load on it.. it should just give you a warning... Should... HEHE for instance the one mod I have displayed "f2" on the screen if the build is to much for the device


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## BumbleBee (26/11/14)

JakesSA said:


> The circuitry will draw as much as it can, it's unaware of what the battery can/should deliver. Your mod will start heating up fairly quickly.
> 
> The thing to understand is that with the relatively short 'on' times for vaping these batteries will still operate when discharged beyond specification but you are damaging the batteries life span. However, take heed of what @Andre is saying and try to build in a margin for error. The risk of a 'locked on' fire button condition is really where the danger lies especially if it happens unbeknownst (finally I get to use that word!!) to the operator.


ok cool, so basically what you're saying is that the same rules apply for mech mods and regulated electronic devices, pulling too much current too fast or for too long could damage the cell or even cause it to vent.

I understand most of this, just asking this as plainly as possible because there are more than a few people with access to high power mods that don't understand all these calculations and quite a lot of retailers out there don't understand it themselves, they will happily sell someone a 100W box mod with generic cells to make a few bucks.


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## JakesSA (26/11/14)

JW Flynn said:


> oh, and if it's a regulated mod, you don't have to worry, you should be safe as the device should not fire if you have to much of a load on it.. it should just give you a warning... Should... HEHE for instance the one mod I have displayed "f2" on the screen if the build is to much for the device



That's correct, the mod will only fire within it's circuitry's limits but keep in mind the circuitry limits may be beyond the rating for the battery. This is of course only an issue with regulated mods where the user chooses the battery vs. a built in battery which, one would assume, is matched to the circuitry limits.


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## JakesSA (26/11/14)

BumbleBee said:


> ok cool, so basically what you're saying is that the same rules apply for mech mods and regulated electronic devices, pulling too much current too fast or for too long could damage the cell or even cause it to vent.
> 
> I understand most of this, just asking this as plainly as possible because there are more than a few people with access to high power mods that don't understand all these calculations and quite a lot of retailers out there don't understand it themselves, they will happily sell someone a 100W box mod with generic cells to make a few bucks.



Yes, one might say a mechanical mod by its design may be more likely to encounter such a condition, think of an un-locked tube mod in a pocket, whereas regulated mods generally have a cut out time if the button is accidentally pressed for an extended period. BUT a regulated mod may fry it's circuit and thereby create a short circuit which no amount of frantic button pushing will solve. I've seen a few fried circuits however and in all these cases the circuit was cut of.

Most of what I am saying here pertains to quality, properly rated batteries though, use a 4000 mAh 18650 TrustFire bought at the Boksburg flea market and all bets are off.

I guess the rule of high power vaping is: Know thy mod, know thy battery, know thy limits.

Reactions: Like 1


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## johan (27/11/14)

JakesSA said:


> Yes, one might say a mechanical mod by its design may be more likely to encounter such a condition, think of an un-locked tube mod in a pocket, whereas regulated mods generally have a cut out time if the button is accidentally pressed for an extended period. BUT a regulated mod may fry it's circuit and thereby create a short circuit which no amount of frantic button pushing will solve. I've seen a few fried circuits however and in all these cases the circuit was cut of.
> 
> Most of what I am saying here pertains to quality, properly rated batteries though, use a 4000 mAh 18650 TrustFire bought at the Boksburg flea market and all bets are off.
> 
> I guess the rule of high power vaping is: Know thy mod, know thy battery, know thy limits.



.... and know Ohms Law

Reactions: Agree 2


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