# Stabilised wood care



## Cobrali

Hi all,

I recently got a stabilised wood mod and it is beautiful! But I was wondering what I can do to keep it in tip top shape as I only know how to wrap other mods but wood is a different story and I don't want to wrap that!

I have read about using oils and wax but the one's listed are hard to find.

Please provide some of your knowledge, especially on what is required and where to get these items from as I was at builders warehouse today but couldn't find paste wax.


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## Christos

Calling @Rob Fisher and @SAVapeGear. 
A good wood wax is preferable as long as it doesn't leave your wood oily. 
I would freak out if the wood was oily.


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## SAVapeGear

I use a good mineral oil first.

You can get it here:

https://www.yuppiechef.com/my-butchers-block.htm?id=15539&name=My-Butchers-Block-Mineral-Oil-300ml

Then I dry it and use renaissance wax after the oil.But that is not available locally.


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## Rob Fisher

Renaissance Wax.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Cobrali

Rob Fisher said:


> Renaissance Wax.
> View attachment 86321


Where do we find this wax?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


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## SAVapeGear

Cobrali said:


> Where do we find this wax?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


Amazon.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Spydro

Renaissance Wax is fine. I use Howard Sun Shield or 100% white Carnauba wax to seal my fine woods. I wouldn't use mineral oil though unless you don't mind if it darkens the colors before you seal it with wax. When done properly the woods cells are already filled from the stabilization, so it should not soak up the oil. If it does then the stabilization wasn't done completely right. Oil that does not completely dry might cloud the finish with some wood species.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Stosta

Just FIY I started quoting these in the "Reading the Forum as a Non-Vaper" and just got too overwhelmed. 

This is a really special forum in that we have a safe place to discuss different ways to polish your wood safely, and without fear of ridicule...

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 6


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## Lukeness

Stabilised wood shouldn't really be able to absorb oils, since it is saturated with resin to 'stabilise' it. It will no doubt retain a very small amount of porosity, especially near the surface, but shouldn't really require anything more than a very light wipe with a light oil to pop nicely.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Rob Fisher

Here is what my blue stab wood doors looked like when I unpacked the box...



And this after a coat of coconut oil! Next I will do a Renaissance coat and leave it overnight and polish tomorrow!

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 5 | Informative 1


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## SAVapeGear

Rob Fisher said:


> Here is what my blue stab wood doors looked like when I unpacked the box...
> View attachment 94075
> 
> 
> And this after a coat of coconut oil! Next I will do a Renaissance coat and leave it overnight and polish tomorrow!
> View attachment 94076


What a difference

Reactions: Agree 3


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## Ash

Wow, what a difference there @Rob Fisher. Cannot wait to see the end product now. It should have been well wrapped in the first place though.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Rob Fisher

Ash said:


> Wow, what a difference there @Rob Fisher. Cannot wait to see the end product now. It should have been well wrapped in the first place though.



Agreed... but this was second hand... and MyUS open all the parcels to verify the contents and they don't seal the packets properly with the result that sometimes the contents spill into the box... my others are all brand new and is real packaging.


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## Ash

Rob Fisher said:


> Agreed... but this was second hand... and MyUS open all the parcels to verify the contents and they don't seal the packets properly with the result that sometimes the contents spill into the box... my others are all brand new and is real packaging.



Yes I noticed that as well, I sent them an email regarding this issue and they assured me it will be addressed and corrected going forward. Obviously not yet it seems

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Ash

Rob Fisher said:


> Renaissance Wax.
> View attachment 86321



Is this really good to have for Stab woods.


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## Rob Fisher

Ash said:


> Is this really good to have for Stab woods.



I have always treated my woods with Renaissance wax... but the HE guys have told me about coconut oil first and it appears to be the right way... let's see how they look tomorrow when I buff the Renaissance wax residue off the panels.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## SAVapeGear

I use Butchers Block mineral oil and then Renaissance wax.

Got the Butchers block mineral oil here:

https://www.yuppiechef.com/my-butchers-block.htm?id=15539&name=My-Butchers-Block-Mineral-Oil-300ml

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## SAVapeGear

The Renaissance wax dry very quickly.I normally buff it off after a few minutes.

Reactions: Thanks 2 | Informative 1


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## Rob Fisher

Coconut Oil for the Phantoms... not as dramatic but still an improvement!

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 3


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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Coconut Oil for the Phantoms... not as dramatic but still an improvement!
> View attachment 94196
> View attachment 94197


Did I ever tell you about my OCD?

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Rob Fisher

Christos said:


> Did I ever tell you about my OCD?



Hehehe... I know what you mean... I did sweat a bit but the second picture with them both in the same way wasn't as good and was a bit blurry... a blurry pic was more than I could bare.


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## Christos

Rob Fisher said:


> Hehehe... I know what you mean... I did sweat a bit but the second picture with them both in the same way wasn't as good and was a bit blurry... a blurry pic was more than I could bare.



*Cough Cough*

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Genosmate

Are these before and after.I need glasses if so cause they look the same


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## Amir

Christos said:


> Calling @Rob Fisher and @SAVapeGear.
> A good wood wax is preferable as long as it doesn't leave your wood oily.
> I would freak out if the wood was oily.



This sounds so wrong

Reactions: Funny 3


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## Christos

Amir said:


> This sounds so wrong


I have sensory issues...


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## Rob Fisher

Genosmate said:


> Are these before and after.I need glasses if so cause they look the same



They are nearly the same... but they smell better!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Christos

Genosmate said:


> Are these before and after.I need glasses if so cause they look the same


Last I checked one doesnt need glasses when looking at wood...

Reactions: Funny 4


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## Ash

Rob Fisher said:


> Here is what my blue stab wood doors looked like when I unpacked the box...
> View attachment 94075
> 
> 
> And this after a coat of coconut oil! Next I will do a Renaissance coat and leave it overnight and polish tomorrow!
> View attachment 94076



How did these turn out after your wax on/ wax off


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## Amir

Christos said:


> I have sensory issues...



clearly


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## Rob Fisher

Ash said:


> How did these turn out after your wax on/ wax off



About the same but with a protective coating!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Amir

Rob Fisher said:


> About the same but with a protective coating!



In a way... that's a good thing right? I know it's your mod but I'd be upset if the color changed in the slightest degree lol. That and if it isn't holding the oils and wax causing the color to change then that would mean it was stabilized correctly? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


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## Christos

Amir said:


> In a way... that's a good thing right? I know it's your mod but I'd be upset if the color changed in the slightest degree lol. That and if it isn't holding the oils and wax causing the color to change then that would mean it was stabilized correctly?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wood tends to dry out over time etc.
It's almost like the colour of your car fading until you restore it to its natural splendour with a good wax!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Rob Fisher

Amir said:


> In a way... that's a good thing right? I know it's your mod but I'd be upset if the color changed in the slightest degree lol. That and if it isn't holding the oils and wax causing the color to change then that would mean it was stabilized correctly?



If the mod isn't sealed with a sealer then the wood does dry out and change colour... the coconut oil brings it back to it's glory and the renaissance wax seals it in and protects it.


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## MysticNectar

Rob Fisher said:


> Renaissance Wax.
> View attachment 86321



This stuff is great

Reactions: Like 1


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## Genosmate

Rob Fisher said:


> They are nearly the same... but they smell better!


If you leave out the Renaissance Wax and just use Coconut Oil then if they don't turn out well you could eat them. Reckon it would taste like Banting Bread Oh don't swallow the magnets

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Amir

Christos said:


> Wood tends to dry out over time etc.
> It's almost like the colour of your car fading until you restore it to its natural splendour with a good wax!



Ah I understand now. Felt like an ANC member in woodwork class for a minute there. 

Wax your wood... noted. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reactions: Funny 4


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## Amir

Rob Fisher said:


> If the mod isn't sealed with a sealer then the wood does dry out and change colour... the coconut oil brings it back to it's glory and the renaissance wax seals it in and protects it.



Thanx for the much needed clarification 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


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## Rob Fisher

More Before and afters!


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## Rob Fisher

Gotta love Coconut Oil!

Reactions: Like 2


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## Ash

So Last week My Hellfire went in for a much needed SPA treatment. The wood was very dull and I could feel the grains when I held it. So after chatting with @Takie I was told to send it to him. I am over the moon with the job he did. Buttery Smooth now.

Before






After










Thank you @Takie for a Job well done. Well worth every cent paid for this treatment.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 3


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## Yagya

Is there anyone here in Cape Town who will sell me a little of Renaissance Wax.
please.
thanks.


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## M5000

Regarding woods, what is the locally available alternative to Renaissance Wax? Does this buff out juice stains, and does it prevent juice stains from condensation or a leak? I want something for a wooden stand thing which has a stained patch from juice..


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## Genosmate

I doubt it will buff out a juice stain and I don't think it would offer too much protection, what sort of wood is your stand and what's it finished with


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## M5000

I have no idea what type of wood it is, it's actually on a brand new tv stand at my sister's lol, nobody has seen it but I was hoping there was some way to remove it, maybe I should give the whole stand a coat of ejuice to make it look even 

One more thing, once the wood mod is treated is it supposed to feel/look shiny with the protective layer? 

As I understand the options like coconut oil or mineral oil are applied first, and then the sealant is applied once that has completely dried. If you know of any sealants or waxes that are locally available that would work for the second step please give me the names.. Wood isn't very forgiving so I just want to be very sure before applying anything..


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## Genosmate

M5000 said:


> I have no idea what type of wood it is, it's actually on a brand new tv stand at my sister's lol, nobody has seen it but I was hoping there was some way to remove it, maybe I should give the whole stand a coat of ejuice to make it look even
> 
> One more thing, once the wood mod is treated is it supposed to feel/look shiny with the protective layer?
> 
> As I understand the options like coconut oil or mineral oil are applied first, and then the sealant is applied once that has completely dried. If you know of any sealants or waxes that are locally available that would work for the second step please give me the names.. Wood isn't very forgiving so I just want to be very sure before applying anything..



I think its safer to leave the TV stand alone and deny all knowledge if confronted  Seriously though if you can't work out what its finished with I wouldn't touch it unless as you suggest you're prepared to possibly end up sanding it down completely.
I wouldn't use Coconut Oil.
Mineral Oil is non drying and thats why its usual (depending on application) to use another product over it as a finish coat.You can use wax for this and its the wax that gives it the finish not the mineral oil.
Its also possible to mix a mineral oil and wax but thats not something I've tried.
If you specifically want to finish a wood mod then a combination of mineral oil and wax is not really the best way to go as it doesn't give a particularly hard wearing finish.Obviously the same is true for furniture.
If you use a drying oil then you don't need a wax.
If you let me know what you want to do I can maybe recommend something.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## antonherbst

Genosmate said:


> I think its safer to leave the TV stand alone and deny all knowledge if confronted  Seriously though if you can't work out what its finished with I wouldn't touch it unless as you suggest you're prepared to possibly end up sanding it down completely.
> I wouldn't use Coconut Oil.
> Mineral Oil is non drying and thats why its usual (depending on application) to use another product over it as a finish coat.You can use wax for this and its the wax that gives it the finish not the mineral oil.
> Its also possible to mix a mineral oil and wax but thats not something I've tried.
> If you specifically want to finish a wood mod then a combination of mineral oil and wax is not really the best way to go as it doesn't give a particularly hard wearing finish.Obviously the same is true for furniture.
> If you use a drying oil then you don't need a wax.
> If you let me know what you want to do I can maybe recommend something.



What would you recomend with my athena pride? Stuff that is locally availible?


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## Genosmate

antonherbst said:


> What would you recomend with my athena pride? Stuff that is locally availible?



If that was my mod I'd polish it on a buffing wheel with a soft compound.Can't Jacques do it for you

Reactions: Like 1


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## antonherbst

Genosmate said:


> If that was my mod I'd polish it on a buffing wheel with a soft compound.Can't Jacques do it for you



Ill speak with him and see if i could part with the mod for a week or two. . Thanks for the suggestion. I didnt even think of him being able to do it.


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## Rob Fisher

Before Coconut Oil.



After Coconut Oil

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Winner 1


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## daniel craig

@Rob Fisher have you used MicroMesh?


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## daniel craig

@Rob Fisher http://www.geekayvapes.com/polish-stabwood-mods/

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Rob Fisher

daniel craig said:


> @Rob Fisher have you used MicroMesh?



I have Micro Mesh standing by @daniel craig but have never tried it yet... I know I should but I'm nervous I will bugger up the wood. I am not the world's best handy man!

Reactions: Like 2


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## daniel craig

Rob Fisher said:


> I have Micro Mesh standing by @daniel craig but have never tried it yet... I know I should but I'm nervous I will bugger up the wood. I am not the world's best handy man!


Yeah, I wouldn't risk it either  . How does renaissance wax work compare to coconut oil? I see the coconut oil makes the wood look darker?


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## daniel craig

@Rob Fisher I assume that the micro mesh you have is probably 1200 or 1500 grit. That is extremely fine so I don't think it will scratch. My only concern is that if I were to do it, I'll probably Polish the one side more than the other or miss a few spots or overdo a few spots

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Rob Fisher

daniel craig said:


> Yeah, I wouldn't risk it either  . How does renaissance wax work compare to coconut oil? I see the coconut oil makes the wood look darker?



Renaissance wax is more for after the coconut oil... it kind of seals it and yes the coconut does darken the wood but with colours it makes them so much more vibrant!

Reactions: Like 2


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## Rob Fisher

I try not buy mods or panels that need this kind of attention anymore... ones sealed with CA is most certainly the way to go... and I guess that's why I love Juma so much... very little maintenance and is resistant to juice spills unlike wood without a CA finish!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Resistance

hi guys. your projects look good


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## Mahir

Rob Fisher said:


> Renaissance Wax.
> View attachment 86321



Where can I get this within SA?


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## Rob Fisher

Mahir said:


> Where can I get this within SA?



Never seen it available in SA. Always get mine from Amazon!

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## RainstormZA

Nice post. I was wondering how I was going to care for my Asvape Gabriel .

Before treatment




Treated with coconut oil - colour came out beautifully!

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 3


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## Mahir

RainstormZA said:


> Nice post. I was wondering how I was going to care for my Asvape Gabriel .
> 
> Before treatment
> 
> View attachment 128006
> 
> 
> Treated with coconut oil - colour came out beautifully!
> 
> View attachment 128003
> 
> 
> View attachment 128004
> 
> 
> View attachment 128005



What is this coconut oil? Lol, and where did you buy it?


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## Rob Fisher

Mahir said:


> What is this coconut oil? Lol, and where did you buy it?



From Woolies!

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## RainstormZA

Mahir said:


> What is this coconut oil? Lol, and where did you buy it?



Spar, pick n pay, checkers, etc

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Resistance

Also any pharmacy

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## Smoke_A_Llama

Mahir said:


> Where can I get this within SA?



Heavin forge makes a conservation wax for knife steels and handles (bone, wood etc) .... at R20 a tub it is probably worth a shot

Reactions: Like 1 | Thanks 1


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## Rob Fisher

Coconut Oil makes the wood shine and nourishes the wood but I'm told that Super Mesh pads and Renaissance Wax is best... so here goes...


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## Rob Fisher

Decided to do my special Teal Stab Wood Solar Storm... it's a lot easier than I anticipated and I was worried I would bugger up the wood but the pads are very gentle on the wood... it takes some effort and time but as you change pads the shine improves with each one... and then Renaissance Wax when you are finished.


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## Rob Fisher

Before




After

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


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## Chris du Toit

@Rob Fisher Those micro mesh pads work wonders, did my kodama with it about a year ago and it feels like a different mod when you are done. So smooth in the hand. 

Those pads work well to remove blemishes from other materials as well, had a ding on my limelight pipe's aluminium button, a little buffing with the pads and it looks like new!

Reactions: Like 1


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## bjorncoetsee

Not vape related but wood and resin related lol. I started making these wood and resin rings, the finest grit sand paper i got was 2500 to make them shine. After i finish with the 2500 grit sanding, i polish them with my dremel and car polish. Then i apply raw linseed oil. But for this specific ring, i need to seal those pencil cores, i tried another layer of resin, but it made bumps, so i had to re sand the whole piece. Does anyone know what i can use to seal these? CA probably wont work because i need to put the ring on a mandrel on a lathe, which i dont have, and the ring is also not round. 
Would wax work after i used the oil? I cant find beeswax anywhere in Bloemfontein

Reactions: Like 2


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## Rob Fisher

Was sorting the display cabinet and I realised a few of the stab wood squonkers needed some love an attention... cleaned them and applied a liberal helping of Renaissance wax on them... popped them into the sun for a short period to warm up the wax and let it sink in... and will polish the squonkers and put them back shortly!

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


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## Vilaishima

bjorncoetsee said:


> View attachment 152524
> Not vape related but wood and resin related lol. I started making these wood and resin rings, the finest grit sand paper i got was 2500 to make them shine. After i finish with the 2500 grit sanding, i polish them with my dremel and car polish. Then i apply raw linseed oil. But for this specific ring, i need to seal those pencil cores, i tried another layer of resin, but it made bumps, so i had to re sand the whole piece. Does anyone know what i can use to seal these? CA probably wont work because i need to put the ring on a mandrel on a lathe, which i dont have, and the ring is also not round.
> Would wax work after i used the oil? I cant find beeswax anywhere in Bloemfontein



Carnauba or you can just use Boiled Linseed oil - it dries hard but dries significantly quicker than raw linseed. Alternatively you could use Danish oil but it is quite expensive. Unfortunatey Carnauba based wax is also quite expensive.

Any of these will not be permanent though. You most permanent solution would be Woodoc Polywax sealer.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Cornelius

Rob Fisher said:


> Was sorting the display cabinet and I realised a few of the stab wood squonkers needed some love an attention... cleaned them and applied a liberal helping of Renaissance wax on them... popped them into the sun for a short period to warm up the wax and let it sink in... and will polish the squonkers and put them back shortly!
> View attachment 158572



What Mod is that one on the left uncle? Do you have anymore pictures of it?


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## Rob Fisher

Cornelius said:


> What Mod is that one on the left uncle? Do you have anymore pictures of it?



@Cornelius it's the Little Pinch from the USA.


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## Cornelius

She is a beauty! No wonder it is in the display cabinet.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Befokski

Not Vape related, but wood related.

For the past 5/6 years I've been using a whole assortment of different products to treat my snooker cues (this includes the shaft, butt and ferrule) and the best products I came across was beeswax, surf board wax, linseed oil, lemon oil, baby oil and more recently unscented candles.

Shaft:
Use green pot scrubber (The ones you get at Pic n Pay, checkers etc) to get off all the grime
Piece of uncoloured white paper used as a cloth to take off anything the pot scrubber didn't
vigorously rub a piece of the candle stick over the surface of the shaft - not too thick, but should cover 80% of all surface area
Use a hair dryer, set to medium heat for 2 minutes to get the wax to seep into the pours of the wood - Can't really put a cue in the sun, it'll warp the living sh*t out of it.
use a green pot scrubber to remove all excess candle wax
lastly, a microfiber cloth to wipe down the shaft​
Butt:
The butt on a cue usually have a shellac/lacquer finish on it, so a normal wipe down with an almost dry cloth should do the trick.​
Ferrule:
A ferrule is traditionally made of brass, so a good sand down with 1500 grit sandpaper and a bit of water keeps it spotless.​
Other materials like Stainless steel I use 2500 grit sandpaper on a lathe.​
I wouldn't say that my method is the right/only way, but it works really well for me.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thanks 1


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## AZAM-ZN

Wanted to thank all contributors to this thread for the amazing tips .. Also followed a Facebook thread from Nicholas Foo. After a few hours of painstaking work here’s the final product...
Perhaps could have been better I am sure, but my hands are killing me....

Reactions: Winner 8


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## Timwis

Rob Fisher said:


> Renaissance Wax.
> View attachment 86321


@Rob Fisher can you point me in the direction of a good video applying the wax properly and if possible where i could get this in the UK? Thanks in advanced even if you don't have either information's!

Reactions: Like 2


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## Rob Fisher

Timwis said:


> @Rob Fisher can you point me in the direction of a good video applying the wax properly and if possible where i could get this in the UK? Thanks in advanced even if you don't have either information's!



I don't have a video but it's really simple... Coconut Oil or Howard Feed-n-Wax. Apply and work it in... let it stand for 15-20 minutes then take off the excess with a soft cloth... then if you have Rennasiance Wax apply that! Bazinga!

Reactions: Like 4


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