# Things they should put into a REO user manual



## Rob Fisher

Having convinced one or two people to upgrade to a REO overtime I have come to realise they really should come with a how to manual. There are things they should put in a user manual for REO's or things you need to know that no one tells you until you whine!

Here are some tips I have learnt over time in no particular order. Credit has to go to the experts on ECIGS SA for most if not ALL of them!

Please try and not go off topic on this thread so we can keep it to Tips and Tricks for the REO only! If you want to discuss a point then please do it in another thread so we can keep this thread short and to the point for new REO owners.

Feel free to comment via the Like and Agree options but please don't feel aggrieved if comments are deleted or moved from this thread that are not tip or tricks or great info.

If you feel you can improve or correct any of the items please do so and I will delete the old one and replace it with your modified version.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 3 | Thanks 1


----------



## Rob Fisher

Never over tighten a REO juice bottle to the point that your O-Ring deforms... the juice will then leak and gurgle. Gently does it when screwing the top on.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 3


----------



## Rob Fisher

To clean your REO just take off the atomiser (and take it apart), take out the battery and unscrew the juice bottle then soak everything in warm water (you can add sunlight soap if you want to but then rinse a lot afterwards). Use a toothbrush to get to hard to reach places. If you have an ultrasonic bath then finish off with a 10 minute session. Use a syringe and squirt water down the 510 connection to really clean out the feed tube. Same with your BF atomiser.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Rob Fisher

Did you know you can lock the fire button on your REO? Turn the fire button clockwise to lock. On a Woodvil there is a switch in the base that is an on/off switch.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Rob Fisher

The correct way to install a fire button cover is to first lock the fire button then you can press the cover on without putting undue pressure on the firing system.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Andre

As you can see in the picture 3 posts above, the end of the juice tube has been cut. This is to prevent it from sucking fast against the bottom of the bottle and not feeding any juice on squonking.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


----------



## johan

For minimal voltage drop on painted or anodized Reo's (you will decrease voltage drop with minimum 2mV):

1. Remove negative spring,
2. Gently remove the paint or anodize on the square section that makes contact with the negative spring with a Dremel tool or sand paper.
3. Use a countersunk drill bit and gently remove paint or anodize in the tapered section of screw hole that secure the negative spring with Reo.

Reactions: Like 3 | Informative 2


----------



## Rob Fisher

When you first get your new REO you need to make a small modification to the bottom of your feed tube otherwise there can be a juice lock at the base of the bottle. Cut a little V in the bottom of the tube or a 45 degree cut (which is what I do)... this will stop the juice suction lock issue that you may experience.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2


----------



## Andre

Rob Fisher said:


> The correct way to install a fire button cover is to first lock the fire button then you can press the cover on without putting undue pressure on the firing system.


If the button cover is not tight enough, just lay a piece of dental floss across the top of the fire button and then press on the cover.

Reactions: Like 4


----------



## Rob Fisher

How full should you fill your juice bottle? Fill to just below the neck. If you fill it any more then when you insert the tube the juice will overflow and there will be juice everywhere! Actually every Reonaut needs to make this mistake at least once.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


----------



## Andre

New to squonking (named after the sound of the juice sucking back into the juice bottle)? Take off your drip tip and look inside at the juice rising as you squonk. Will give you an idea of how long and at what pressure to squonk. Becomes very automatic after some time. Beware of oversquonking when vaping mindlessly.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2


----------



## Andre

Did you know? The spring inside a Reo is a "hot" spring. If you have a hard short, the spring will collapse and as a result the battery will move away from the firing pin. A great safety feature.

Reactions: Like 5


----------



## Alex

Apply a very thin layer of dielectric grease to your battery terminals once a week to avoid sparking, and the inevitable accumulation of carbon deposit buildup.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1


----------



## Rob Fisher

Which way should the air-hole of the RM2 (or any other atty) face? The air hole on all atomisers on the REO should be opposite to the fire button... if it's not you may get a steam burn on your fire finger. Added to that it's always best when vaping that the air-hole is facing upwards... better airflow and no leaking from over squonking.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


----------



## zadiac

Andre said:


> As you can see in the picture 3 posts above, the end of the juice tube has been cut. This is to prevent it from sucking fast against the bottom of the bottle and not feeding any juice on squonking.



I cut mine in a V shape and it works beautifully. Never gets stuck to the bottom and use almost all the juice in the bottle.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Rob Fisher

Do you need an O-Ring between the REO and RM2 (or other atty)... the easy answer is yes because it gives you more protection from leaking... it also helps to line up your air-hole to your required position. New REO's with RM2's normally line up perfectly but over time things loosen a little so an O-Ring really helps to get your lining up spot on.

Reactions: Like 3 | Agree 1


----------



## vaalboy

If your door is loose or rattles, gently bend the door to create a slight curve - it will fit snug after that.

Reactions: Like 6


----------



## vaalboy

After installing a new wick and coil, block the atty airhole with your finger to prevent juice leaking from the hole - sqonk and hold until wick is properly saturated.

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 2


----------



## zadiac

vaalboy said:


> After installing a new wick and coil, block the atty airhole with your finger to prevent juice leaking from the hole - sqonk and hold until wick is properly saturated.



Figured this one out about a week after I got my Reo. Works perfectly (when you have a hand free of course...lol) When driving it works best, because you can keep your eyes on the road. Just bring the Reo up to your hand on the steering wheel, close the air holes and squonk.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## andro

I prefer this position for the oring in the bottle . Can tighten better and never a spill .

Reactions: Like 4 | Winner 1


----------



## Stroodlepuff

Rob Fisher said:


> Do you need an O-Ring between the REO and RM2 (or other atty)... the easy answer is yes because it gives you more protection from leaking... it also helps to line up your air-hole to your required position. New REO's with RM2's normally line up perfectly but over time things loosen a little so an O-Ring really helps to get your lining up spot on.
> 
> View attachment 13116



This one over here I do agree with - but It makes the Reomiser seriously hard to get off when you want to check the ohms of your coil! Seriously mine is impossible to get off now  - any tips?


----------



## Al3x

Stroodlepuff said:


> This one over here I do agree with - but It makes the Reomiser seriously hard to get off when you want to check the ohms of your coil! Seriously mine is impossible to get off now  - any tips?


I use a mini long nose plier and gently twist the atty off at the posts, dont be too hard or it could scratch the posts and make sure you have all 2 or 3 posts in the plier.

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## Rob Fisher

andro said:


> I prefer this position for the oring in the bottle . Can tighten better and never a spill .



I have never thought to try it that way... thanks for the tip @andro!

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Rob Fisher

Stroodlepuff said:


> This one over here I do agree with - but It makes the Reomiser seriously hard to get off when you want to check the ohms of your coil! Seriously mine is impossible to get off now  - any tips?



I use a bit of toilet roll and with the cap off I grip the posts and use a bit of hand strength to loosen it.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## ET

Al3x said:


> I use a mini long nose plier and gently twist the atty off at the posts, dont be too hard or it could scratch the posts and make sure you have all 2 or 3 posts in the plier.



eish no, just use a pair of pliers on the outside of the reomiser. afer covering reomiser with cloth or rubber gloves or something to protect it. not gonna risk snapping off a post. knowing my luck and all

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


----------



## huffnpuff

andro said:


> I prefer this position for the oring in the bottle . Can tighten better and never a spill .
> 
> View attachment 13141



Wouldn't that make refilling messy?


----------



## johan

huffnpuff said:


> Wouldn't that make refilling messy?



How? - as it doesn't change or block the orifice of the bottle.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## huffnpuff

johan said:


> How? - as it doesn't change or block the orifice of the bottle.



I mean that now all you threading on your bottle gets more coated on juice, so when you unscrew all the juice in the threads can become messy. Shouldn't be a problem it you don't overfill or keep the Reo on it's side I guess.

Reactions: Thanks 1


----------



## andro

huffnpuff said:


> Wouldn't that make refilling messy?


It doesnt . The only thing that change is u can tighten it as much as u like and the oring doesnt deform ever

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## andro

huffnpuff said:


> I mean that now all you threading on your bottle gets more coated on juice, so when you unscrew all the juice in the threads can become messy. Shouldn't be a problem it you don't overfill or keep the Reo on it's side I guess.


I dont have that problem . I unscrew it ,put the reo on his side and a piece of paper towel to keep the tube up refill , wipe the bottle and screw it back


----------



## Robert Howes

when taking the bottle in and out make sure it is sitting on the base and not floating when you replace it. Sounds simple but took me a while to figure out it was one of the reasons I was getting juice block. That 1mm or so can make a difference.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Nooby

Should definitely have a CAUTION in the user manual as well: "Buy at users own risk, will cause urge to buy more." 

Oh and, "Works best in pairs" lol

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1


----------



## Rob Fisher

Robert Howes said:


> when taking the bottle in and out make sure it is sitting on the base and not floating when you replace it. Sounds simple but took me a while to figure out it was one of the reasons I was getting juice block. That 1mm or so can make a difference.



Ahhhhhh that was your problem! Good find Rob!  And nice addition to the manual!

PS This thread was actually created due to the feedback and questions from my REO convert @Robert Howes !

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## huffnpuff

andro said:


> I prefer this position for the oring in the bottle . Can tighten better and never a spill .
> 
> View attachment 13141


I guess one shouldn't knock things until you try it....This is a TOP tip. Been using this method since the tip was posted and it really works great. Sure the threads become coated and refilling may sometimes require a wipe or two but the benefits outweigh to the negative. None of the lame o-ring torquing issues anymore. Thanks

Reactions: Like 1 | Thanks 1


----------



## LandyMan

huffnpuff said:


> I guess one shouldn't knock things until you try it....This is a TOP tip. Been using this method since the tip was posted and it really works great. Sure the threads become coated and refilling may sometimes require a wipe or two but the benefits outweigh to the negative. None of the lame o-ring torquing issues anymore. Thanks


Is that the same o-ring from inside the bottle? I noticed a slight deformation occurring this afternoon, even though I've been very careful not to over tighten. It seems the o-ring slips into the thread when tightening the cap


----------



## Andre

LandyMan said:


> Is that the same o-ring from inside the bottle? I noticed a slight deformation occurring this afternoon, even though I've been very careful not to over tighten. It seems the o-ring slips into the thread when tightening the cap


Yes, it is. I have never had to resort to this method, but seems to work from the accounts above.


----------

