# DIY Mod build Q&A.



## TylerD (4/6/15)

So I have bought the DIY dual parallel box mod kit from Kieran.

I want to start with the box, and I had a few questions that I googled and came across.

I know there's some guys that have finished their boxes. Please can you give some tips and info to us newbs. 

I think we can use this thread for Q&A as to this matter and also all videos for diy boxes.

This was quite informative.




Please feel free to add anything.

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## johan (4/6/15)

If it uses the mosfet as active switch, I will gladly assist.

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## TylerD (4/6/15)




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## johan (4/6/15)

TylerD said:


>




Wiring very neat, but suggest to make all paths as short as possible to reduce voltage drop

Reactions: Agree 1 | Thanks 1 | Informative 1


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## TylerD (4/6/15)

johan said:


> If it uses the mosfet as active switch, I will gladly assist.


He added the mosfet later on.
Thanks @johan , your help will be very appreciated!
I want to keep this as safe as possible.


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## TylerD (4/6/15)

johan said:


> Wiring very neat, but suggest to make all paths as short as possible to reduce voltage drop


Will keep that in mind! Thanks!

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## BigAnt (4/6/15)

This is a very useful site and video.
https://nonameboxmods.com/noname-box-mods/mosfet-part-kit

Even better is the template for cutting the holes.
"Check the scale after printing. Don't print from your web browser or the scale will probably be off."
https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/...oname-1590g-mosfet-part-kit-drill-diagram.pdf

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## zadiac (4/6/15)

I have conversed with Al USAF via email concerning that mosfet box mod of his and he's very helpful and will answer your questions. He's a very nice guy. He knows what he's doing.

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## TylerD (4/6/15)

BigAnt said:


> This is a very useful site and video.
> https://nonameboxmods.com/noname-box-mods/mosfet-part-kit
> 
> Even better is the template for cutting the holes.
> ...



Awesome! Thanks. Will check it out.


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## Yoda (4/6/15)

Why does he use 2 mosfet chips? more safe that way?


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## johan (4/6/15)

Yoda said:


> Why does he use 2 mosfet chips? more safe that way?



Lower voltage drop at very high current.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## WHITELABEL (4/6/15)

Great thread thanks guys!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Yoda (4/6/15)

Lol I just watched that whole 2 hour vi very well made I really want to build a mod like this just not that good with a soldering iron...


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## Gazzacpt (4/6/15)

Yoda said:


> Why does he use 2 mosfet chips? more safe that way?


By stacking mosfets you can up the amp load it can carry. The one shipped with the kit handles 260A. I don't think you need more than that seeing as 160A is probably as close to madness you can build if you use VTC5's at there absolute limit, which I wouldn't recommend.


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## eviltoy (4/6/15)

Well I have built a few so if you have questions shoot


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## Yoda (4/6/15)

@eviltoy
thanks will do so im busy with exams whean i on holiday ill get one and ask if i need assistance

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## TylerD (6/6/15)

Very exited with my little project. Etch primer on.

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## johan (6/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Very exited with my little project. Etch primer on.



Pics would be nice .

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Paulie (6/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Very exited with my little project. Etch primer on.



Caint wait to see them all!!



I just love them

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## TylerD (6/6/15)

Cool. Will take pics as I go.

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## TylerD (6/6/15)

Paulie said:


> Caint wait to see them all!!
> View attachment 28820
> 
> 
> I just love them


Me too!!!


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## TylerD (6/6/15)

My theme will be: The Dexter box!

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## Paulie (6/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Cool. Will take pics as I go.
> 
> View attachment 28821


Think a coffee is in order when it done bro!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## TylerD (6/6/15)

Paulie said:


> Think a coffee is in order when it done bro!


Agree! Tomorrow I will be doing the internals. Whoop!

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## johan (6/6/15)

TylerD said:


> My theme will be: The Dexter box!
> View attachment 28822



Sorry but looks more like Freddy Kruger theme to me with all the blood .

Reactions: Funny 3


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## TylerD (6/6/15)

johan said:


> Sorry but looks more like Freddy Kruger theme to me with all the blood .


Did you ever watch Dexter?


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## johan (6/6/15)

I thought I just chirp in here to explain N (negative) channel MOSFET, as most of you will use in these builds.

What is a MOSFET?

Its a Metal Oxide Semi-conductor Field Effect Transistor (for purposes of this box mod application, a simple switch)
For heavens sake its not a feckin chip!
What does the terminals on the MOSFET stand for?

G = Gate (when you apply a + (positive) voltage, the switch is ON
D = Drain (the terminal that you connect to your coil's - [negative] side)
S = Source (the terminal that you connect to your battery's - [negative] terminal)
How does the MOSFET work?

Current flows from D (Drain) to S (Source) when G (Gate) is more positive than S (Source) // _a simple switch when + is connected to G, its ON, and disconnected and/or connected to - (negative) its OFF. [ therefore the 15k resitor connected between G and S]._
Why use a MOSFET instead of a mechanical switch?

A MOSFET has a way longer life span than a mechanical switch
A MOSFET is minute in size compared to a mechanical switch for the same current (Amp) rating - just look at the size of a 60A direct current mechanical switch, its bigger than the box mod.
Over time a MOSFET will keep its low on resistance (milli-ohms), as where a mechanical switch's on-resistance will increase over time and lead to arching and increased voltage drops.
Maybe not important in this application, but its a silent switch compared to high current mechanical switches.
Happy building - hope this assist in understanding what you guys are building.

Reactions: Winner 8 | Informative 4 | Useful 1


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## johan (6/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Did you ever watch Dexter?



No! the only Dexter I saw once was a comedy series of a small sweet African American boy.

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## TylerD (6/6/15)

johan said:


> I thought I just chirp in here to explain N (negative) channel MOSFET, as most of you will use in these builds.
> 
> What is a MOSFET?
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info @johan ! Nice to know exactly what we working with.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## TylerD (6/6/15)

johan said:


> No! the only Dexter I saw once was a comedy series of a small sweet African American boy.


I loved the Dexter series.

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## johan (6/6/15)

TylerD said:


> I loved the Dexter series.



I never saw blood in that series, although I did not see them all?


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## Silver (6/6/15)

johan said:


> I thought I just chirp in here to explain N (negative) channel MOSFET, as most of you will use in these builds.
> 
> What is a MOSFET?
> 
> ...



Thanks @johan !
That was awesome!

Just a question, how does the mechanical switch in the Reo compare with a Mosfet?
Maybe the Reo should have a mosfet?

Reactions: Like 1


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## free3dom (6/6/15)

johan said:


> I never saw blood in that series, although I did not see them all?



I don't think you saw the same Dexter then because there was blood everywhere, all the time 

With him being a blood spatter analyst for the Miami police department, and a serial killer...blood was sort of the theme of the whole show


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## Yoda (6/6/15)

@johan 
Where would on get the solid copper wire locally?


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## johan (7/6/15)

free3dom said:


> I don't think you saw the same Dexter then because there was blood everywhere, all the time
> 
> With him being a blood spatter analyst for the Miami police department, and a serial killer...blood was sort of the theme of the whole show



That series I totally missed .

Reactions: Funny 1


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## johan (7/6/15)

Silver said:


> Thanks @johan !
> That was awesome!
> 
> Just a question, how does the mechanical switch in the Reo compare with a Mosfet?
> Maybe the Reo should have a mosfet?



No not necessary in Reo, as the Reo's switch mechanism is totally different from a commercial mechanical switch.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## johan (7/6/15)

Yoda said:


> @johan
> Where would on get the solid copper wire locally?



Any electrical- or electronic supply store (you can even get it from workshops that do motor and/or alternator rewindings).


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## Gazzacpt (7/6/15)

Yoda said:


> @johan
> Where would on get the solid copper wire locally?


Just a warning solid copper is an absolute pain to work with. 

FYI the kit comes with silicone sheathed stranded tinned copper core cable.


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## johan (7/6/15)

Gazzacpt said:


> Just a warning solid copper is an absolute pain to work with.
> 
> FYI the kit comes with silicone sheathed stranded tinned copper core cable.



That will make it easier for the guys that don't do it everyday, but with the correct type of flux, good soldering iron (>40W) and right tools, it is not that difficult.


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## devdev (7/6/15)

I finished the paint job on mine, fitted the battery sled and installed the switch, 510 and the magnets. I will be doing the wiring and finishing during the week.

In hindsight, I wish I had installed the magnets before I started painting. After taking these pics I did paint the magnets black by hand. Not ideal but it works. 

Also I eyeballed the switch and 510 location - templates are for sissies! I did consider mounting the switch on top (next to the 510, like a Reo) but that would have resulted in the edge of the switch touching the edge of the 510, which I thought would look cluttered.

I am very happy with how it came out

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## johan (7/6/15)

Sexy @devdev

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## Yoda (8/6/15)

@devdev 
How did you paint it like that look amazing!!

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## Silver (8/6/15)

Amazing work @devdev !
Macguyver of note

Looking forward to seeing it when we meet up next

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## TylerD (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> I finished the paint job on mine, fitted the battery sled and installed the switch, 510 and the magnets. I will be doing the wiring and finishing during the week.
> 
> In hindsight, I wish I had installed the magnets before I started painting. After taking these pics I did paint the magnets black by hand. Not ideal but it works.
> 
> ...


Awesome!!! Looks damn sexy! Never got to my wiring yesterday. I just need to finish it this week!

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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

Jirre that paint job

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## JW Flynn (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> I finished the paint job on mine, fitted the battery sled and installed the switch, 510 and the magnets. I will be doing the wiring and finishing during the week.
> 
> In hindsight, I wish I had installed the magnets before I started painting. After taking these pics I did paint the magnets black by hand. Not ideal but it works.
> 
> ...


Nice one... I was looking into doind the same with a mine when I get it... that crackling paint is the #@%.. hehe... I did it the first time a couple of years back with a PC of mine... black underneath and the white crackling over the top... looked pretty damn neat!!! 

but I have a different idea I want to try out for the mod, will see how it comes out eventually , hehe

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## devdev (8/6/15)

Thanks guys - I actually landed up spending another 2 hours on the wiring last night. All that's left is for me to hook up the positive terminal to the 510 and the MOSFET and it should be up and running.

For those of you interested in the paint job, I used a product called Crackle. Basically it's a paint that forms cracks while it is drying, which shows the base coat underneath. 

In total there are 4 different products I used:

1. Primer
2. White base coat
3. Crackle black
4. Clear Lacquer

A bit of a nightmare to work with, but thanks to a hot air heater it dried quickly.

I do suggest you warm up the cans of paint before you start spraying. Also with the crackle, the thicker you spray it, the larger the final cracks will be. As you can only spray one coat (otherwise the effect gets ruined) I suggest you spray it thicker rather than thin, but don't spray so much that it starts to run.

I bought all the items at my local Builder's Warehouse. Crackle is made by www.spraymate.co.za

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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> Thanks guys - I actually landed up spending another 2 hours on the wiring last night. All that's left is for me to hook up the positive terminal to the 510 and the MOSFET and it should be up and running.
> 
> For those of you interested in the paint job, I used a product called Crackle. Basically it's a paint that forms cracks while it is drying, which shows the base coat underneath.
> 
> ...


Have u worked out yet how u are doing the soldering on the 510?


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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

SEAN P said:


> Have u worked out yet how u are doing the soldering on the 510?



There are videos on youtube covering soldering of the 510 but basicall you disassemble the connector and slide the parts on the wire. Then solder the wire into the 510 pin the reassemble

Reactions: Agree 1


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## devdev (8/6/15)

SEAN P said:


> Have u worked out yet how u are doing the soldering on the 510?



I have completely removed the positive pin from the 510. If you further strip it down you can remove the actual pin from the white delrin plastic (there is also a spring, and a TINY Oring to be removed - make sure you don't lose these.). I am planning to solder the positive pin with one wire, then reassemble the positive pin, and then insert it into the 510. The positive pin wire will then be soldered to the left positive post on the battery sled (I have a wire running as a jumper inbetween the first and second positive posts of the sled). I am aiming to use the left post as the center meeting point for all positive wires.

I am a little worried that the MOSFET 'chip' - (just pulling @johan's leg) got too hot while soldering, but hopefully it will survive the process.

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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> I have completely removed the positive pin from the 510. If you further strip it down you can remove the actual pin from the white delrin plastic (there is also a spring, and a TINY Oring to be removed - make sure you don't lose these.). I am planning to solder the positive pin with one wire, then reassemble the positive pin, and then insert it into the 510. The positive pin wire will then be soldered to the left positive post on the battery sled (I have a wire running as a jumper inbetween the first and second positive posts of the sled). I am aiming to use the left post as the center meeting point for all positive wires.
> 
> I am a little worried that the MOSFET 'chip' - (just pulling @johan's leg) got too hot while soldering, but hopefully it will survive the process.


Just checking i have built 2 already and 3rd one still to be built. Mine i left every thing together, i use my doge as it pushes the pin the deepest, put flux in the center pin and soldered the wire before i put it in the hole, just used the small solder bit to heat up till the solder took properly. Find its the best way. Just dont solder the wire on the outer positive ring as u will loose alot of voltage because you will basically use the small spring as a positive supply then

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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

SEAN P said:


> Just checking i have built 2 already and 3rd one still to be built. Mine i left every thing together, i use my doge as it pushes the pin the deepest, put flux in the center pin and soldered the wire before i put it in the hole, just used the small solder bit to heat up till the solder took properly. Find its the best way. Just dont solder the wire on the outer positive ring as u will loose alot of voltage because you will basically use the small spring as a positive supply then



I dont recommend this as you stand a good chance of melting the insulator. Its best to just solder the pin when seperate

Reactions: Agree 1


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## devdev (8/6/15)

eviltoy said:


> I dont recommend this as you stand a good chance of melting the insulator. Its best to just solder the pin when seperate



Yes I agree, while Sean's method does work, it is not noob friendly, or very forgiving for those who take time to solder a connection right.

For those of you who are not that comfortable with soldering, I would strongly advise stripping the pin down completely.

Now if I could just work out how the pin goes back together...

PS @eviltoy I see you are still an active anti-Ratava proponent. Good on you man, I am proud

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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

Brass screw base > oring > spring > 510 Pin > insulator

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## devdev (8/6/15)

Ok I am in need of some assistance from the electrically minded folks...

I finished assembly of the wiring rig, got everything soldered into place, hook it up to the multi meter with a battery (one) in place. Fire the button and... zero voltage.

I go into diagnostic mode with the multi meter checking both for continuity, as well as voltage being carried from battery sled to the mosfet/switch/510. I start removing heatshrink to check for dry/disconnected solder joints. Everything seems fine. I repeat checks: from positive terminal of the battery sled to switch (fine), then check continuity of each lead running to the mosfet (again fine), check the actual switch itself (fine). Check that both the negative and positive parts of the 510 are properly installed, and the multimeter beeps to confirm there is a circuit between the terminals and the respective bits (checked both the outside of the 510 and the inside where the leads connect. It appears the connections to the 510 are right. Again all seems fine.

The only thing that is not registering any continuity is the resistor mounted across the left outermost and right outermost legs of the mosfet. So I have two questions:

1) Am I correct in thinking that the resistor should still beep to show continuity if it is working properly?
2) Is it possible the issue itself is with the mosfet, and could it have overheated during the soldering process?

Any further suggestions as to what I could do would be great! I am now beginning to remember why I previously found assembling any kind of electrical components to be a real PITA!


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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

Stick an atty on does it fire


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## devdev (8/6/15)

eviltoy said:


> Stick an atty on does it fire



Nope I did try that as well. Atty is as dead as a door nail as well


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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

Pictures please. If mosfet was fried it usually autofires

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## devdev (8/6/15)

eviltoy said:


> Pictures please. If mosfet was fried it usually autofires



I checked online. A resistor won't necessarily beep when tested. It depends on its resistance 

I am busy de soldering the mosfet. 

How would one know if it is stuffed?


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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

eviltoy said:


> I dont recommend this as you stand a good chance of melting the insulator. Its best to just solder the pin when seperate


I will agree to disassemble to solder if u are a amateur in soldering. The way i work i heat the wire up and not the actual pin due to the chance of melting the plastic. Once solder starts flowing and hits that flux it gets right in there and it will not come out. But each person has he's preferred way to do things


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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> I checked online. A resistor won't necessarily beep when tested. It depends on its resistance
> 
> I am busy de soldering the mosfet.
> 
> How would one know if it is stuffed?


Dev get pic up and the way it was wired so we can see what went wrong

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## devdev (8/6/15)

Ok so I have stripped (desoldered) everything from the MOSFET.

Maybe I misunderstood the MOSFET labelling? I went on the following basis:




I figured that the Source was the source, because of the S D printed on the component (check the fourth arrow above). Maybe this was incorrect?

For what it is worth (absolutely nothing) here is the existing installation




The wire at the bottom is the negative (S), the one sticking out on the left hand side (just by the switch) is connected to the 510 negative (D). As things are I removed to wires from the MOSFET, which you cannot see above. The one is the G (connects to the switch) and the second is the positive terminal to other point on the switch


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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> Ok so I have stripped (desoldered) everything from the MOSFET.
> 
> Maybe I misunderstood the MOSFET labelling? I went on the following basis:
> 
> ...


Dev which area do stay


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## devdev (8/6/15)

I am in the north of JHB

Is this the same MOSFET as the one in the kit?

http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet-transistors/6887204/

@SEAN P have I correctly identified the legs on the MOSFET?


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## Paulie (8/6/15)

@devdev have you watched this video? maby it will help bro?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> I am in the north of JHB
> 
> Is this the same MOSFET as the one in the kit?
> 
> ...


Basically the same. If u need help let me know I will gladly assist u. If mofset is gone then i can grab u one and install for u. Bot from what i can make out wiring could be the problem

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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

Paulie hows urs treating u?


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## Paulie (8/6/15)

SEAN P said:


> Paulie hows urs treating u?




So far good Sean  I have 3 box mods (hammond) and more incomming lol I do wish i had the skills to build it myself but i know it would end bad haha

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## SEAN P (8/6/15)

Paulie said:


> So far good Sean  I have 3 box mods (hammond) and more incomming lol I do wish i had the skills to build it myself but i know it would end bad haha


Get urself a kit we sit down and go thru it together. Best way to learn

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## Blu_Marlin (8/6/15)

devdev said:


> Ok so I have stripped (desoldered) everything from the MOSFET.
> 
> Maybe I misunderstood the MOSFET labelling? I went on the following basis:
> 
> ...



From my basic electronics knowledge and I do mean basic, MOSFET`s are generally configured as Gate, Drain, Source from left to right looking at the device front on (side with the markings). Multimeters that I’ve used in the past will only register continuity if the resistance is below 100 ohms. I don’t think that the Gate-Source resistor is less than 100 ohms. From the information provided it seems as though you’ve swapped the Gate and Source connection around. As best as I can make out your MOSFET is a IRLB 3813. If so heres a link to the datasheet.
http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlb3813pbf.pdf

Reactions: Informative 3


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## free3dom (8/6/15)

SEAN P said:


> Get urself a kit we sit down and go thru it together. Best way to learn



Not likely  

@Paulie spends most of his time on a different kind of DIY, and he's quite good at that

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## Paulie (8/6/15)

SEAN P said:


> Get urself a kit we sit down and go thru it together. Best way to learn


Sounds like a plan 

But ill leave the diy hardware to you guys im more of a juice diy fan 


free3dom said:


> Not likely
> 
> @Paulie spends most of his time on a different kind of DIY, and he's quite good at that



Lol yeah juice Diy is more my thing

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## devdev (8/6/15)

free3dom said:


> Not likely
> 
> @Paulie spends most of his time on a different kind of DIY, and he's quite good at that



Guys we agreed that Selfies/DIY/'alone time'/self service or whatever you wish to call it, we don't need to discuss it here, even if Paulie is "quite good" at it. 

Ok so, with some assistance from @SEAN P and @Blu_Marlin I have put away this project for the night. It's time for some Clash of Clans.

I have ordered two new MOSFETs and some other bits and pieces I found online. Will take about a week to deliver. In the meantime I will be trying the build again tomorrow or wednesday, and maybe I can get it to work.

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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

In your diagram the gate is labelled wrong thats the source

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## eviltoy (8/6/15)

Look at attached

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## SEAN P (9/6/15)

Ok dev after having a proper look at ur wiring now and not having a sleeping tablet to confuse me u have mixed up wires. Ur source u have connected to the gate, ur drain u have wired correct, and ur gate u have connected to ur source. So the way u are holding the mofset is correct but dont use the markings on there. I cant make out if u have wired switch in on the pic but remember the gate goes to switch and from switch to positive together with positive on 510. If u rewire correct it should still fire

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## johan (9/6/15)

@devdev as @SEAN P and @Blu_Marlin already mentioned, you had your connections arse-ways (Gate & Source wrong way round). The pic @eviltoy posted is correct.

I doubt that the mosfet is damaged, resolder it correct and it should function. You can also cut off the D (Drain) pin and connect wires to the Tab with M3 bolt, nut and lug, as Drain and Tab are internally connected.

_Tried a gazillion times to upload a picture, but this forum software seems f@#$
will try again later_​

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## TylerD (9/6/15)

I'm shit scared to solder this thing. Lol.
So before I start. This is how I have it and how mine will be wired.
Anyone see anything wrong with my way?

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## johan (9/6/15)

TylerD said:


> I'm shit scared to solder this thing. Lol.
> So before I start. This is how I have it and how mine will be wired.
> Anyone see anything wrong with my way?
> View attachment 28963



That is 100% correct! The 2 wires from the firing switch can be thin as they don't carry any significant current. I'l try again to post pic for @devdev while I'm on it:

​

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## johan (9/6/15)

@TylerD, no need to be scared  - the only thing that can happen is some smoke coming out of the mosfet, getting the smoke back into the mosfet, that is the scary part .

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## TylerD (9/6/15)

johan said:


> That is 100% correct! The 2 wires from the firing switch can be thin as they don't carry any significant current. I'l try again to post pic for @devdev while I'm on it:
> 
> View attachment 28967​


Great! Thanks @johan ! Then I will continue tonight. The info on the ab and drain being the same, makes it a bit easier fitting it. Thanks for that as well.

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## TylerD (9/6/15)

johan said:


> @TylerD, no need to be scared  - the only thing that can happen is some smoke coming out of the mosfet, getting the smoke back into the mosfet, that is the scary part .

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## devdev (9/6/15)

Thanks to everyone for the advice... it seems prior to last night I did not know the backend of a MOSFET from the front end!

You guys all rock! @eviltoy, @BigAnt, @SEAN P, @Blu_Marlin, @johan

@TylerD - Don't be scared, you cannot make more of a ballsup than I did.I am only getting home late tonight, but I am hoping I will have the energy to get my box mod up and running.

I am thinking of naming mine Boba Fet.

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 3


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## TylerD (9/6/15)

Boomshakalaka! It's alive!!!! 
Thanks for all the input guys! Next one will be so much easier!
Not bad for a first try. I'm very chuffed!

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 11


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## eviltoy (9/6/15)

Baller. for those guys wondering its actually easier to have the mosfet on the left of the sled

Reactions: Like 1


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## TylerD (9/6/15)

For me it was actually easier on top. And the wires are also shorter.

Reactions: Like 3


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## Silver (10/6/15)

Congrats @devdev and @TylerD 
I admire your persistence

Devdev, your running commentary was hilarious. And I like "Boba Fet". Lol


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## Silver (10/6/15)

Oh, and @SEAN P - please upload a cool avatar pic!
Maybe a pic of a mosfet would be a great starting point. Ha ha

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

Guys, are there some kind of liquid insulation I can use on the parts I circled here?
Just scared of a short on the open wires when I put the cap on.


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## johan (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Guys, are there some kind of liquid insulation I can use on the parts I circled here?
> Just scared of a short on the open wires when I put the cap on.
> View attachment 29019



You can use "hot snot" (aka hot glue), epoxy clear, those very thin double sided tape or even clear silicone. Alternatively, you can paint or stick Desifix on the inside of lid to isolate if you think it can potentially short the bare wires.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Winner 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

johan said:


> You can use "hot snot" (aka hot glue), epoxy clear, those very thin double sided tape or even clear silicone. Alternatively, you can paint or stick Desifix on the inside of lid to isolate if you think it can potentially short the bare wires.


Thanks @johan ! By the way, I really enjoyed the soldering after all. Thanks for all the tips.

Reactions: Winner 1


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## johan (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Thanks @johan ! By the way, I really enjoyed the soldering after all. Thanks for all the tips.



.... and it was easy peasy after all .

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Paulie (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Guys, are there some kind of liquid insulation I can use on the parts I circled here?
> Just scared of a short on the open wires when I put the cap on.
> View attachment 29019




Great work bud!! How she vape?

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

Paulie said:


> Great work bud!! How she vape?


Brilliant! My Lemo just can keep up with the wicking. On my pipe it's not a problem. I think the voltage drop is very small. Will test it this afternoon. Cant wait to finish the paint now!


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## eviltoy (10/6/15)

You can use liquid tape for insulation

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

eviltoy said:


> You can use liquid tape for insulation


Where can I get it? Builders?


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## eviltoy (10/6/15)

yar builders

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## AndreFerreira (10/6/15)

Well done @TylerD !!!

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

Actually thing of scrapping the blood spatter paint and give it a few coats of this. Mat Red.

Reactions: Like 4


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## dewald.kotze (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Actually thing of scrapping the blood spatter paint and give it a few coats of this. Mat Red.
> View attachment 29031


too bad. i would've really liked to see how you do the blood spatter. 
Love that show and would've liked some ideas of how to do the blood spatter.

Reactions: Like 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

dewald.kotze said:


> too bad. i would've really liked to see how you do the blood spatter.
> Love that show and would've liked some ideas of how to do the blood spatter.


Will see. not cast in stone yet.


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## dewald.kotze (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Will see. not cast in stone yet.


will definitely keep an eye on this. was thinking maybe vinyl printing would be the answer but have no clue where to get something like that done.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

dewald.kotze said:


> will definitely keep an eye on this. was thinking maybe vinyl printing would be the answer but have no clue where to get something like that done.


That would be ideal actually. But I'm don't know enough about it.


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## dewald.kotze (10/6/15)

i can do designs but will need to find someone with a printer

Reactions: Like 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

Dammit! I screwed up my one lid magnet drilling. Went right through. 
O well. I think 3 will work for now!


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## Gazzacpt (10/6/15)

U


TylerD said:


> Dammit! I screwed up my one lid magnet drilling. Went right through.
> O well. I think 3 will work for now!


Use some epoxy to set it in place, should hold. Make sure you get a nice layer under the magnet. Those things are so strong you don't actually need them to be in contact with each other to hold the door securely.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

Gazzacpt said:


> U
> 
> Use some epoxy to set it in place, should hold. Make sure you get a nice layer under the magnet. Those things are so strong you don't actually need them to be in contact with each other to hold the door securely.


Cool. Will do that. Thanks.


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## TylerD (10/6/15)

Just for you @dewald.kotze !

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 13 | Thanks 1


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## free3dom (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Just for you @dewald.kotze !
> View attachment 29058



Damn, that looks sick (and by that I mean amazing, not psychotic)

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## johan (10/6/15)

That looks very realistic - real arty-farty you @TylerD .

Reactions: Funny 1 | Thanks 1


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## Andre (10/6/15)

Which body part (of yours I hope) did you cut for that splatter

Reactions: Funny 3


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## dewald.kotze (10/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Just for you @dewald.kotze !
> View attachment 29058


Thats awesome.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Dr Phil (10/6/15)

Lol looks cool blood marks and all

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## devdev (10/6/15)

Ladies and Germs!

BOBA FET IS ALIVE!

Turns out the MOSFET was actually fine, and once I re-soldered everything with the component in the correct orientation, we have a chicken dinner!

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 8


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## AndreFerreira (11/6/15)

@TylerD What Gauge solid copper wire did you use? and where did you buy it?


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## TylerD (11/6/15)

AndreFerreira said:


> @TylerD What Gauge solid copper wire did you use? and where did you buy it?


It's 1.4mm think. I bought it from Builders. It's a piece of telephone line I stripped. Hope that helps.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## TylerD (11/6/15)

So it's finished!

I present Dexter!

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 11


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## dewald.kotze (11/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Just for you @dewald.kotze !
> View attachment 29058


Getting a new mod on fri


TylerD said:


> So it's finished!
> 
> I present Dexter!
> View attachment 29095


Damn thats awesome. will have to figure out how you did that...

Great job @TylerD

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## TylerD (11/6/15)

dewald.kotze said:


> Getting a new mod on fri
> 
> Damn thats awesome. will have to figure out how you did that...
> 
> Great job @TylerD


Awesome! Can't wait to see what you are going to do with your mod!

I used a combination of these two vids to do the spatter.
I bought red spray can paint and sprayed a bit into a bowl. Then I used a brush like in the first video and a pig hair brush for the other bigger platter.

Reactions: Winner 1


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## dewald.kotze (11/6/15)

TylerD said:


> Awesome! Can't wait to see what you are going to do with your mod!
> 
> I used a combination of these two vids to do the spatter.
> I bought red spray can paint and sprayed a bit into a bowl. Then I used a brush like in the first video and a pig hair brush for the other bigger platter.



Cool. Will have to play around first before i try anything like this on a device hahaha.

Reactions: Like 1


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## johan (11/6/15)

Dexter looks stunning @TylerD - I see it took a bit of blood, (sweat & tears) on the inside as well

Reactions: Funny 1 | Thanks 1


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## johan (11/6/15)

devdev said:


> Ladies and Germs!
> 
> BOBA FET IS ALIVE!
> 
> Turns out the MOSFET was actually fine, and once I re-soldered everything with the component in the correct orientation, we have a chicken dinner!



Glad you find the correct G & S spot on the mosfet in the end .

Reactions: Winner 1 | Funny 2


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## TylerD (11/6/15)

Thanks @johan ! I got some liquid tape in red. Thought it just needed to be red.

Reactions: Like 1


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## KieranD (11/6/15)

Very very cool @TylerD!
Looking EPIC!!! 
ATT Mods... I think we need an "EPIC" rating too

Reactions: Agree 3 | Thanks 1


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## TylerD (11/6/15)

KieranD said:


> Very very cool @TylerD!
> Looking EPIC!!!
> ATT Mods... I think we need an "EPIC" rating too


Thanks @KieranD ! And also thanks for the little nudge at vapecon!

Reactions: Winner 1


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## WHITELABEL (12/6/15)

Need help please guys my mod just auto fires. I'm sure I've screwed up the wiring somewhere any ideas for troubleshooting?


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## BigAnt (13/6/15)

Gambit said:


> Need help please guys my mod just auto fires. I'm sure I've screwed up the wiring somewhere any ideas for troubleshooting?


You probably have the gate signal shorting. I can sort it out for you just let me know when you free.

Reactions: Winner 2 | Thanks 1


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## WHITELABEL (13/6/15)

Awesome thanks man.


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## 6ghost9 (17/6/15)

Gambit said:


> Need help please guys my mod just auto fires. I'm sure I've screwed up the wiring somewhere any ideas for troubleshooting?




Gambit Check that your negative wire connected to your negative switches isent making contact with the housing. When we build @CYB3R N1NJ4s box the same thing happened. Easy to fix if it is the issue. Just check and make sure before going through open heart surgery

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## WHITELABEL (17/6/15)

6ghost9 said:


> Gambit Check that your negative wire connected to your negative switches isent making contact with the housing. When we build @CYB3R N1NJ4s box the same thing happened. Easy to fix if it is the issue. Just check and make sure before going through open heart surgery


Thanks man, Ant helped me find the problem. The negative contact on the battery sled was shorting against the casing.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## 6ghost9 (17/6/15)

Exact same thing as cybers! Glad you came right!


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## Raslin (23/6/15)

Hi Guys, some really good looking dig mods here. A few questions: How do you install the magnets and get them to sit flush with the lids?

I notice that there are no venting holes, is it not wise to drill some into the case?


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## SEAN P (23/6/15)

Raslin said:


> Hi Guys, some really good looking dig mods here. A few questions: How do you install the magnets and get them to sit flush with the lids?
> 
> I notice that there are no venting holes, is it not wise to drill some into the case?


@Raslin you will have to counter sink those holes abit more with a drill bit. A 6.5mm should do the trick, but be careful not to drill thru go bit by bit. Drill abit then see how magnet sits. To secure them you can use 5min epoxy. Also make sure that the magnets are all the right way around before u stick them else the magnets push the lid off. There is no real need to drill venting holes as the lid does not seal airtight when it is on

Reactions: Agree 2


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## CYB3R N1NJ4 (23/6/15)

Not unless you drill like @6ghost9 and make your own vents by your firing button! At least he solders well!!!

Reactions: Funny 1


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## 6ghost9 (23/6/15)

CYB3R N1NJ4 said:


> Not unless you drill like @6ghost9 and make your own vents by your firing button! At least he solders well!!!



Be nice! First time ever doing something like that! I think I nailed it....Mostly! At least it fires, which is more than I thought would happen to be honest

Reactions: Like 1


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## CYB3R N1NJ4 (23/6/15)

6ghost9 said:


> Be nice! First time ever doing something like that! I think I nailed it....Mostly! At least it fires, which is more than I thought would happen to be honest


Hahaha! It came out awesomely. And like you said, it works. And it was fun too. Who doesn't enjoy making a mod in one night and getting to bed at 3am to be up for work at 5!
All said, I would do it again!

Reactions: Like 1


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## 6ghost9 (23/6/15)

Oh I plan on it! The next box is going to be series with a voltmeter!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Raslin (23/6/15)

@SEAN P, thanks for the tips. I will countersink slowly. I still think vent holes should be drilled, just for safety sake.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Paulie (23/6/15)

So I decided to take one of my sa box mods to @Alex to make it super neat and build it to the USA standards if not better  here are some of the pics so far 































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 3


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## SEAN P (23/6/15)

Raslin said:


> @SEAN P, thanks for the tips. I will countersink slowly. I still think vent holes should be drilled, just for safety sake.


Feel free to do so. After all its not called a DIY for no reason. You can build it or customize it just as you feel


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## TylerD (27/6/15)

Second one done and dusted.....and it auto fire. Crap!!!
I will check the wires a bit later. Thanks to you guys, I have an idea were to start looking. Shot!


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## abdul (27/6/15)

Has anybody added a volt reader to this box?


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## BigAnt (27/6/15)

abdul said:


> Has anybody added a volt reader to this box?


Here is the template to add the voltmeter and potentiometer.
https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/cdn-nonameboxmods-com/noname-1590g-raptor-drill.pdf


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## Raslin (27/6/15)

Adding a volt meter would be cool. Anybody know where to source one that will fit?


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## zadiac (27/6/15)

johan said:


> That series I totally missed .



Dexter is Freddie's uncle when it comes to killing. Plain and simple.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## BigAnt (27/6/15)

Raslin said:


> Adding a volt meter would be cool. Anybody know where to source one that will fit?


Here are some local options Blue or Red.

http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P2977281807
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P0197474037


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## Raslin (27/6/15)

BigAnt said:


> Here are some local options Blue or Red.
> 
> http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P2977281807
> http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P0197474037



Yeah, I saw these, but think it will be to big for the mod.


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## BigAnt (27/6/15)

Raslin said:


> Yeah, I saw these, but think it will be to big for the mod.


Agreed but thats all I could find locally.

I got these but 2 months wait.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1222900


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## abdul (27/6/15)

I have a volt/ohm reader I will add. Thanks ant


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## abdul (27/6/15)

My only issue is, fitting it, spacing etc. don't want to have it outside. Also wiring it, I suck at electronics


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## 6ghost9 (1/7/15)

My Diy Box mod journey

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 6


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## TylerD (1/7/15)

6ghost9 said:


> My Diy Box mod journey
> View attachment 30376
> View attachment 30383
> View attachment 30384
> ...


Awesome! Very neat work dude!


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## 6ghost9 (1/7/15)

TylerD said:


> Awesome! Very neat work dude!




I was going to do a black and yellow batman logo style paint job but I decided I cant put batman on allllllll my mods

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Paulie (1/7/15)

6ghost9 said:


> My Diy Box mod journey
> View attachment 30376
> View attachment 30383
> View attachment 30384
> ...


Very Nice man!!


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## Viper_SA (9/7/15)

Can anyone tell we where I can source just 510 and mosfet for a single 18650 build? Maybe the switch too.


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## johan (9/7/15)

Viper_SA said:


> Can anyone tell we where I can source just 510 and mosfet for a single 18650 build? Maybe the switch too.



Apart from the 510 connector (not locally available), everything else available from your local electronic supplier.


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## Alex (11/7/15)

I Didn't take any pics before this stage, but it mostly involved lots of sanding.. to get rid of the "Hammond Lean". Eventually I was able to get her standing straight, next to my Reo.

The next step involved cleaning, getting ready for primer. Three prime coats later, followed by yet more sanding and we were ready for the paint. This was completed after another 3 coats, and finished with a fine sand down.

Which brings me to this first pic, and test fitting the tray in the corner.





For this one, I had decided to create a groove for the wire into the bottom edge of the battery sled, so that the cable formed part of the sled after completion. I finished it off with epoxy, and sanded everything back into spec. after this photo was taken.




Another test fitting to check wire lengths.




Final test with batteries in. The only epoxy used was in the two mounting holes on the battery sled. The mosfet assembly fits snugly in place without the need for any glue, and for future possible maintenance issues. 




And all done.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 6


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## eviltoy (11/7/15)

Nice!!!!

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## ET (11/7/15)

Awesome!

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## johan (11/7/15)

Extremely cool @Alex, and nice neat wiring skills.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Silver (11/7/15)

Wow @Alex - well done!
AlexGuyver Boxmodder!

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Alex (11/7/15)

johan said:


> Extremely cool @Alex, and nice neat wiring skills.



Thanks Johan and Silver


Sent from iPhone

Reactions: Like 2


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## Gazzacpt (11/7/15)

Nice one @Alex I'm busy with one down in the cape and the weather is driving me nuts 2 coats 30min apart is taking 2 - 3 days to dry before I can wet sand and add more paint.

Reactions: Like 1 | Can relate 2


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## Alex (11/7/15)

Gazzacpt said:


> Nice one @Alex I'm busy with one down in the cape and the weather is driving me nuts 2 coats 30min apart is taking 2 - 3 days to dry before I can wet sand and add more paint.



I found the sanding and painting part to be very relaxing, I've almost finished a paint job on one of my friends Reo's that has gone from raw alum to appliance white, and it's starting to look incredible now.

Reactions: Winner 1


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## Yoda (15/9/15)

OK so within the next week or so i will be posting my journey to build a 3D printed DIY box, big thanks for the help @eviltoy , here is a peek at the design it needs a few update then going to be printed within the next few days

Reactions: Like 5 | Winner 1


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## Andre (15/9/15)

Yoda said:


> OK so within the next week or so i will be posting my journey to build a 3D printed DIY box, big thanks for the help @eviltoy , here is a peek at the design it needs a few update then going to be printed within the next few days
> View attachment 35619
> View attachment 35620


Great stuff. Looking forward to see the progress.


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## SwickedV (15/9/15)

Ah yeah a local 3D printed mod


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## DoubleD (15/9/15)

Yoda said:


> OK so within the next week or so i will be posting my journey to build a 3D printed DIY box, big thanks for the help @eviltoy , here is a peek at the design it needs a few update then going to be printed within the next few days
> View attachment 35619
> View attachment 35620



Great stuff guys, cant wait to see it completed 

Question, will the 3D printer be able to print the door groove angle (on the mod itself, where the door slides in)? Or will you cut it afterwards?


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## Yoda (15/9/15)

DoubleD said:


> Great stuff guys, cant wait to see it completed
> 
> Question, will the 3D printer be able to print the door groove angle (on the mod itself, where the door slides in)? Or will you cut it afterwards?


Its all printed thats the beauty of it, no hole drilling ect all complete just like a few excess pieces in the sides

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## ET (16/9/15)

This looks awesome. Can't wait to see the finished product


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## Yoda (16/9/15)

ET said:


> This looks awesome. Can't wait to see the finished product


Went this morning booked the printing but the place is a bit back logged but will have the printed models in my hands next week

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 1


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## Yoda (21/9/15)

Question: Should I go series or parallel on my DIY boxes?


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## BumbleBee (21/9/15)

Hey @Alex, how's about some updated pics of that cool pin striping you were telling me about.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Gazzacpt (21/9/15)

Yoda said:


> Question: Should I go series or parallel on my DIY boxes?


Series will give you 8.4v on full charge. For that to be vapeable you going to have to build a very high ohm coil or you'll just end up setting your wicks alight. 
My recommendation is to go parallel it almost doubles the amp load you can run. 
If you want to go series you need a pwm board or something to tone it down.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## SEAN P (21/9/15)

Yoda said:


> Question: Should I go series or parallel on my DIY boxes?


Stick to parallel bud. Series is boss but for the cloud makers like me. But Is abit hectic at times

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


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## johan (21/9/15)

Yoda said:


> Question: Should I go series or parallel on my DIY boxes?



Go parallel - you win only higher output voltage going series.


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## Alex (21/9/15)

BumbleBee said:


> Hey @Alex, how's about some updated pics of that cool pin striping you were telling me about.



I was feeling really bored when I did this, and I was planning to do a white circle in the middle. But unfortunately the can of spray paint was almost finished, and I didn't shake it properly so some of the solvent from the can messed up the job. That was when I decided to bring out the dremel and play around a little  finished it off with some clear epoxy to give it a 3D look As they used to say in the army, it's got some houding now.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Yoda (21/9/15)

Thanks for the replies everyone!!!


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## BumbleBee (21/9/15)

Alex said:


> I was feeling really bored when I did this, and I was planning to do a white circle in the middle. But unfortunately the can of spray paint was almost finished, and I didn't shake it properly so some of the solvent from the can messed up the job. That was when I decided to bring out the dremel and play around a little  finished it off with some clear epoxy to give it a 3D look As they used to say in the army, it's got some houding now.


That does look interesting, that spot in the middle needs a good buff though, polish up the magnets and put a drop of epoxy on them, will look really slick


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## Alex (21/9/15)

BumbleBee said:


> That does look interesting, that spot in the middle needs a good buff though, polish up the magnets and put a drop of epoxy on them, will look really slick



Thanks for the advice, it does look good IRL.


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## BumbleBee (21/9/15)

Alex said:


> Thanks for the advice, it does look good IRL.


I'm sure it does, capturing details and effects like that with a camera are damn near impossible to do

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Yoda (28/9/15)

From design to reality, 3D printed (soon to be parallel) box mods, will finish them through the week or next week

Reactions: Winner 8


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## Chris du Toit (28/9/15)

Yoda said:


> From design to reality, 3D printed (soon to be parallel) box mods, will finish them through the week or next week
> View attachment 36140
> View attachment 36141
> View attachment 36142


Looks awesome, well done,


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## DoubleD (28/9/15)

Great stuff


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## Yoda (8/10/15)

Ok guys I have officially hit a brick wall...

Wanted to use 15g solid copper wire in my 3D printed boxes, tried soldering the wire for one of them today but all I accomplished was pissing myself off, going to look for a new soldering iron tomorrow and thinner strandes wire, but want to know what is the thinnest guage wire i can use for a parallel mod? because the solid/thick wire is a nightmare to solder and i dont have much space in the box?


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## Gazzacpt (8/10/15)

Yoda said:


> Ok guys I have officially hit a brick wall...
> 
> Wanted to use 15g solid copper wire in my 3D printed boxes, tried soldering the wire for one of them today but all I accomplished was pissing myself off, going to look for a new soldering iron tomorrow and thinner strandes wire, but want to know what is the thinnest guage wire i can use for a parallel mod? because the solid/thick wire is a nightmare to solder and i dont have much space in the box?


18g should be fine and a diy little soldering iron is not going to cut it. You can pick up a decent solder station for about R 900.00 that will last you forever and not piss you off.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## johan (8/10/15)

@Yoda for thick wires etc. you need a Soldering Iron/Station of at least 90W. Good soldering Stations that are used for lead free soldering (can be used with leaded solder as well) will do the job - most of the more affordable ones work kind of "unconventionally" on induction heating principle, and are very energy efficient. Apart from the new generation Weller- and Metcal brands (which are very expensive), we found the following make very reliable (+/- US$ 120): http://www.yihua-soldering.com/product-5-9-high-frequency-soldering-station-en/147704

​

Reactions: Like 2


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## Yoda (8/10/15)

Thanks for the replies @Gazzacpt and @johan, i found a guy that runs with my dad that has a good station that he said i can borrow and ill get some wire thats a bit thinner that 14g

Reactions: Like 2


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## Alex (8/10/15)

I got one of these about 17years ago, still works perfectly.

http://www.magnumproducts.co.za/2002.html

Reactions: Like 1


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## Gazzacpt (8/10/15)

Alex said:


> I got one of these about 17years ago, still works perfectly.
> 
> http://www.magnumproducts.co.za/2002.html


Yup thats a decent one. Can be found at mantech as well. And elements, tips and thermostats are available and decently priced.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## johan (8/10/15)

Gazzacpt said:


> Yup thats a decent one. Can be found at mantech as well. And elements, tips and thermostats are available and decently priced.





Alex said:


> I got one of these about 17years ago, still works perfectly.
> 
> http://www.magnumproducts.co.za/2002.html



Good for hobby and/or small jobs and they are manufactured in SA with excellent after sales service, but unfortunately useless when it comes to lead free solder as required for the rest of the world.

Reactions: Informative 1


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