# How to fix the most annoying thing about the Boxer BF Clone - ARCING



## John (2/9/17)

Hey guys,

I wanna share this quick little fix that will drastically improve the performance of the inexpensive Boxer BF mech (clone). So I've had this little mod for a week now, having managed to be one of the lucky few that managed to score one at Vapecon last weekend. I must say, for what it is, its a fantastic little squonker and the build quality is fairly decent overall.

My fellow mech-heads will know that one one of the biggest issues with mechanical mods is arcing - its essentially a poor switch connection that causes the electrical spark to have to travel through air, oxidizing the metal contact and massively increasing resistance and voltage drop. 

_[*DISCLAIMER*: Mechanical mods must be treated with a healthy respect - if you perform this modification, you do so at your own risk and accept all the associated dangers. Do not attempt this modification if you are not 100% confident in your ability. this is only a guide - you can use whatever means or tooling you have at your disposal]_

The main issue with the Boxer squonker is the BF pin and switch assembly - being a clone, one would expect some level of dubious manufacturing or the other - in this case its thankfully a relatively easy fix. Basically - the surface area of the contact point is too small, pumping 20A through a spot the size of a pinhead is guaranteed to cause problems so we're gonna increase the contact surface by grinding and polishing the switch and BF pin.

Here is a rough illustration of the modification:





*Tools required:*

Table Vice
Metal file
600, 1000, 1500 waterpaper
Dremel or similar rotary tool
Screwdrivers for disassembly
Metal polish or Rouge
Dielectric Grease

*Step 1: Disassembly*
Disassemble the BF pin by holding the bottom and gently unscrewing the pin in the 510 connector. a few turns will undo the entire bf bin - be sure to note the placement of rubbers and seals and keep all screws and parts in a little container for later retrieval.

*Step 2: grinding down the BF pin*
Clamp the round threaded bottom of the BF pin in a vice and gently file down one side by about 1.5mm. Be careful not to go too deep, inspecting after every few filings to prevent filing into the threads like I did. not a train smash if you do though - it will still work perfectly. The piece is made from brass with a nickel plating so the finished surface will be brass-on-brass.






*Step 3: Finish the surface*
Flatten the surface off by sanding it down, starting with the 600 and making your way up to the 1500 paper. Finish off the surface with some metal polish or rouge to end in a mirror shine.

Looking at the image below, we can clearly see the arc point - the burrs and casting marks on the switch assembly are really bad - we're gonna have to attend to that too. Start by removing the two screws pictured - the entire piece slides outwards (beware the clips at the bottom)






*

Step 4: smoothing the switch contact*
Using the same method outlined in steps 2 and 3 to reveal a flat, mirror finish on the switch contact.






This is what the modified bottom section profile should look like afterwards






A quick soak in some soapy water and a thorough rinsing (you can pop the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one) before re-assembly to get off the workshop cooties off the parts






*Step 5
*
Reassemble the switch and BF pin assembles, making sure to align the ground-down side of the pin with the switch contact. If you have some DE grease, now is the time to apply a light coating to both faces with a cotton bud. Replace all screws and make certain all the seals and grommets are in the right places before putting a battery in. Insert the battery with caution and inspect the device thoroughly. The new surface faces should mate perfectly now.











There you have it folks, no more arcing. This little mod hits like a damn steam train! Thanks for reading, Please let me know if you attempted this and how it turned out.

Reactions: Like 3 | Winner 7 | Informative 7 | Creative 1


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## Clouds4Days (2/9/17)

John said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I wanna share this quick little fix that will drastically improve the performance of the inexpensive Boxer BF mech (clone). So I've had this little mod for a week now, having managed to be one of the lucky few that managed to score one at Vapecon last weekend. I must say, for what it is, its a fantastic little squonker and the build quality is fairly decent overall.
> 
> ...



Great step by step guide brother and all well and easily explained.
Now i definetly need to get a boxer mod... Thanks alot...

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1 | Thanks 1 | Informative 1


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## John (2/9/17)

Not a bad little mod for the price, you wont be disappointed @Clouds4Days

Reactions: Like 1


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## Lee (2/9/17)

Wow.. Very informative. Now this is how you do a step by step guide. Thanks John

Reactions: Agree 3 | Thanks 1


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## Hakhan (2/9/17)

great little guide which I am sure will work on other similar devices

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## John (2/9/17)

Hakhan said:


> great little guide which I am sure will work on other similar devices



Thanks man, And yes - this would work on any similar squonk box - same principles apply


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## GerritVisagie (2/9/17)

Thanx brother. What a great idea
I'll do something about that 510 tomorrow, I actually modified the switch, to get a larger surface area, and a shorter throw. 
But I see you have a Lil spacer too. 
Even just bending the switch contact already made a significant difference to how mine hits. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reactions: Like 1


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## John (2/9/17)

GerritVisagie said:


> Thanx brother. What a great idea
> I'll do something about that 510 tomorrow, I actually modified the switch, to get a larger surface area, and a shorter throw.
> But I see you have a Lil spacer too.
> Even just bending the switch contact already made a significant difference to how mine hits.
> ...



Are you missing the little spacer bud? I've been bending the pin back all week, but because of the arc - the extra pressure required to get a good connection kept bending it back. I did this mod because I know that thing is gonna eventually snap off with all the bending. Let me know how it goes.


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## GerritVisagie (2/9/17)

Here's what I did. 
The arching caused the switch to heat up that in turn ended up melting the button. 
So I had some repairs. 
But so far, like this, huge difference. 
But I'll so that 510 modification tomorrow.

You say you unscrew the 510 pin from the tip right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## John (2/9/17)

GerritVisagie said:


> Here's what I did.
> The arching caused the switch to heat up that in turn ended up melting the button.
> So I had some repairs.
> But so far, like this, huge difference.
> ...



Brother that switch is a bit close hey - If you can wait a week or two, I'll model my spacer and button and spacer and print you one - just pay for shipping. The 510, just grip the bottom piece where the switch makes contact and loosen from the top with a flat screwdriver, then the bottom piece screws all the way off and the pin comes straight out the top leaving the rubber behind at the bottom

Reactions: Like 1


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## Puff the Magic Dragon (2/9/17)

My new Boxer has been in customs for six weeks, but seems to be on the move now.. Thanks for the tips @John . Will make mod when Boxer clone arrives, and let you know how it goes. Great instructions and photos.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Deckie (2/9/17)

John said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I wanna share this quick little fix that will drastically improve the performance of the inexpensive Boxer BF mech (clone). So I've had this little mod for a week now, having managed to be one of the lucky few that managed to score one at Vapecon last weekend. I must say, for what it is, its a fantastic little squonker and the build quality is fairly decent overall.
> 
> ...



Thanks John, very clear & thorough guide. Will definitely refer to it when my Boxer arrives.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Alex (2/9/17)

A great tutorial, thanks @John.

Using dielectric grease in the contact area will greatly reduce arcing.

Reactions: Agree 3 | Informative 1


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## DrKolver (3/9/17)

Alex said:


> A great tutorial, thanks @John.
> 
> Using dielectric grease in the contact area will greatly reduce arcing.


I have one of these Boxers but I don't like it at all. Don't know what to do with it.





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## CeeJay (3/9/17)

Sell it to me


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## DrKolver (3/9/17)

CeeJay said:


> Sell it to me


Contact me via Whatsapp. 0825605316.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk


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## BeardedVaper93 (9/10/17)

John said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I wanna share this quick little fix that will drastically improve the performance of the inexpensive Boxer BF mech (clone). So I've had this little mod for a week now, having managed to be one of the lucky few that managed to score one at Vapecon last weekend. I must say, for what it is, its a fantastic little squonker and the build quality is fairly decent overall.
> 
> There you have it folks, no more arcing. This little mod hits like a damn steam train! Thanks for reading, Please let me know if you attempted this and how it turned out.



Just want to say thank you to @John 
This is an Amazing trick that saved me from selling mine.

Reactions: Like 2


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## StevenKBK (20/12/17)

I used this same fix on the GeekVape Athena and have managed to get significantly better performance, and no visible arcing to the naked eye.

Instead of using dielectric grease, I followed the advice of a friend and used Ox-Gard grease which is actually supposed to help conductivity, while also creating a barrier that is supposed to help prevent oxidation. My friend said it is just like No-a-Lox if anyone is familiar with that.

My question is, will these products substitute for the dielectric grease used in your tutorial? If not then do you know why?


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