# Reo Help For First Time Owners



## Rob Fisher

OK I was not getting a good hit on my VM Coffee and thought there must be something wrong... my issues have been very much squonking (just love this word) related and when I changed bottles this morning I took off the drip tip and squonked while looking into well and I could clearly see the liquid comes in and cover the wick... the subsequent vape was perfect. A small side issue... complex juices taste better in the REO and I guess devices like the Kayfun and Russian.

Now I was not getting a good hit and when looking into the well and pressing the bottle I didn't see liquid coming and covering the wick... so I took everything apart and two things seemed apparent...

First there did not seem to be a clear passage for the juice. What I did was block the breathing hole on the Reomiser and blow hoping to clear the old juice and any blockage. Cleared the juice from the tube but still felt a little blocked. so I took out another tube to replace the current one.

Secondly I realised the O-Ring in the plastic bottle lid was all skew and not sitting right. I actually think this was the root of all evil. I tried to reset the O-Ring and try again but I have a feeling this O-Ring isn't the right size for some reason. So I dived into my REO toolkit for a replacement lid with o-ring. Bingo!

Now when I squonk I look into the well with the drip tip off and make sure the liquid covers the wick and the subsequent vapes are dead on target again!

One other question... the little tubes come with a screw metal thingy and I assumed I could screw that into something? Not so much it would seem. So I pulled it out and put it ones side and then pushed the tube onto the protruding thingy the other tube was on and bingo. Everything sorted. What on earth is the story with the little screw thingy on the replacement tubes?

I'm now having an overload explosion of VM Strawberry in Erica!


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## devdev

That bronze screw thingy? Its a nipple, that fits into where the tube connects to feed juice into the base of the 510 connector I think.

Its a screw so that it can be replaced by the user I think


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## Rob Fisher

devdev said:


> That bronze screw thingy? Its a nipple, that fits into where the tube connects to feed juice into the base of the 510 connector I think.
> 
> Its a screw so that it can be replaced by the user I think



I just looked and none of the other spare tubes have it? It appears to be stainless steel.


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## Andre

As @devdev said, but you can only see the whole contraption if you take the delrin cover off. Do not take it off just for the sake of it - screw is easily damaged if one over tightens.
It will not squonk if the juice bottle is not tight enough or too loose or the o-ring not well seated. You could add a drop of superglue on the top section of that nipple (see video) before pushing on the tube, but many say it is fine without.
Here is a video on how to use the rebuild kit:

Reactions: Like 2 | Winner 1


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## Silver

What?

Rebuilding the REO in your first few days @Rob Fisher ?

But this does worry me as a potential future REO owner. Hearing about superglue etc.

Was this a dud you received? Or user error? Or just a random manufacturing glitch?


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## Rob Fisher

Silver said:


> What?
> 
> Rebuilding the REO in your first few days @Rob Fisher ?
> 
> But this does worry me as a potential future REO owner. Hearing about superglue etc.
> 
> Was this a dud you received? Or user error? Or just a random manufacturing glitch?



I don't think it was any of the above Hi Ho... I think it was a dud wick or something blocking the tube running from the bottle to the Reomiser I replaced. I just panicked and started undoing everything... Rookie error!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Silver

Ok thanks!


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## Reonat

Help needed. The gold contact plate thingy appears to have snapped off at the end?? No idea why. I now need to replace it from my toolkit.


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## Reonat

Here you can see the bit that snapped off. What is worrying me is how to remove and replace the centre pin as all the videos say snap it off and then pull the pin out from the top and replace. Is my LP Reo the same?


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## Silver

Wow, sorry to hear about that @Reonat
Wonder how on earth it broke off...

I have no experience with replacing it - but I am pretty sure your REO can be put back to perfect condition with the repair kit.

Hopefully one of the REONauts with technical experience of this can explain how its done...


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## Rob Fisher

Silver said:


> I have no experience with replacing it - but I am pretty sure your REO can be put back to perfect condition with the repair kit.


 
Oh not's not kewl... Like @Silver I have no idea @Reonat! But stand by because @Andre or @Alex should be along real soon to help!


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## Reonat

Could it have snapped if the button was pushed down in my handbag? Is all I can think of as I put it in my bag in a rush whilst doing morning school run and it was working perfectly before that.


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## Alex

Reonat said:


> Here you can see the bit that snapped off. What is worrying me is how to remove and replace the centre pin as all the videos say snap it off and then pull the pin out from the top and replace. Is my LP Reo the same?


 
Hi @Reonat, I have watched the video, but haven't done it myself. Your reo should be exactly the same procedure.


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## devdev

Where is @Andre with his Reo repair video?

That shows how you do it. Have to snap off the nipple on the right bottom part of the picture.

The video shows it all


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## Andre

Reonat said:


> Here you can see the bit that snapped off. What is worrying me is how to remove and replace the centre pin as all the videos say snap it off and then pull the pin out from the top and replace. Is my LP Reo the same?


Have never seen this before. If you can screw the pin thingie/nipple (which they say you should snap off) off it will be better for then you do not run the risk of installing the center pin with gaskets incorrectly. To do that you need to hold the center gasket with a flat nosed screw driver at the top and then unscrew the nipple with a pair of pliers at the bottom. Take out the firing pin, put in the new one. Screw back that pin/nipple, etc. When putting back the black delrin cover, be careful not to overtighten the screw, it can easily damage the threads.


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## Alex




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## Reonat

Alex said:


>



Thanks for this. Am struggling to snap that end bit off so am going to hunt in the tool abyss for the right size screw driver.... It seems they glue the 2 bits together which perhaps why I am struggling to snap it off or screw it off.


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## MurderDoll

Reonat said:


> Thanks for this. Am struggling to snap that end bit off so am going to hunt in the tool abyss for the right size screw driver.... It seems they glue the 2 bits together which perhaps why I am struggling to snap it off or screw it off.


You shouldn't need to snap it off. 

Its held on by a little screw. 

I'll take photos for you shortly.

All I do is hold the bottom with my fingers and use a screwdriver to loosen the thread.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Alex

Reonat said:


> Thanks for this. Am struggling to snap that end bit off so am going to hunt in the tool abyss for the right size screw driver.... It seems they glue the 2 bits together which perhaps why I am struggling to snap it off or screw it off.


 
I think the are just screwed very tight, and it's much easier to just snap it off. Personally I would try unscrewing it, but the only problem is using the correct size flathead screwdriver to hold the 510 pin stationery. If the screwdriver head is not an exact fit, you will damage the top of the post.


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## PeterHarris

i never snapped anything off, all you need to do is grip that nipple with a long nose - then use a flat screwdriver to screw out the positive pin connector- treat it the same as you would a normal screw, thats how i did it - twice. (i did this when i re-sprayed my reo


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## Reonat

Ok.. got it off and out. I had to snap it. Now the grommet it the problem as it doesn't come out in one piece.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Reonat

Progress.. grommet out using a paperclip bent into a tiny hook

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## Reonat

Success!!! Hugh is restored back to his former glory and vaping like a champ. Have to admit it was really scary but I guess is proves that if I (a mommy from the burbs) can do it, anybody can.

Reactions: Like 1 | Winner 6


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## Yiannaki

Reonat said:


> Success!!! Hugh is restored back to his former glory and vaping like a champ. Have to admit it was really scary but I guess is proves that if I (a mommy from the burbs) can do it, anybody can.


Yey 

So glad to hear that!!


Well done on nursing him back to health


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## Rob Fisher

Reonat said:


> Success!!! Hugh is restored back to his former glory and vaping like a champ. Have to admit it was really scary but I guess is proves that if I (a mommy from the burbs) can do it, anybody can.


 
Oh thank the Pope! We were all stressing big time!

Reactions: Like 2


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## Metal Liz

okay, some silly questions hehehe 

1. is it a must for the airhole to face upwards and if so why?
2. how hard are you supposed to squonk the bottle?
3. how often must you replace / rebuild the coils
4. how often must you replace your wicking material?

I'm going to attempt a coil with ekowool wicking tonight, wish me good luck hehehe

Vape strong and rock on

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## Reonat

Rob Fisher said:


> Oh thank the Pope! We were all stressing big time!


Yep.. sorry for that little rush of adrenaline. Feel rather empowered now. Think I'll go and tinker with my husbands 4x4 now. Perhaps a little modification whilst he is away

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## PeterHarris

Metal Liz said:


> okay, some silly questions hehehe
> 
> 1. is it a must for the airhole to face upwards and if so why? - if the airhole is facing you, you might get a gurgle
> 2. how hard are you supposed to squonk the bottle? - i take off the drip tip and look while i squonk, i press until my wick is submerged in juice, or just below the airhole, then release. if the bottle is full you will need to press less, when its empty, you need to squeeze more
> 3. how often must you replace / rebuild the coils - i have been using the same coil for over a month now - just dry burn it every week or so
> 4. how often must you replace your wicking material? - cotton usually replaced once every 3 days. - i use ekowool from SUB ohm - and that i replace every 3 weeks
> 
> I'm going to attempt a coil with ekowool wicking tonight, wish me good luck hehehe
> 
> Vape strong and rock on


 

1. is it a must for the airhole to face upwards and if so why? - if the airhole is facing you, you might get a gurgle
2. how hard are you supposed to squonk the bottle? - i take off the drip tip and look while i squonk, i press until my wick is submerged in juice, or just below the airhole, then release. if the bottle is full you will need to press less, when its empty, you need to squeeze more
3. how often must you replace / rebuild the coils - i have been using the same coil for over a month now - just dry burn it every week or so
4. how often must you replace your wicking material? - cotton usually replaced once every 3 days. - i use ekowool from SUB ohm - and that i replace every 3 weeks

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## Rob Fisher

1. is it a must for the airhole to face upwards and if so why?

Because you won't get liquid coming out and there won't be a gurgle if you have over filled... plus the vape is that much better!

2. how hard are you supposed to squonk the bottle?

Enough to get liquid flowing... take out the drip tip and look inside and squonk... I press pretty much all the way and count to around 3 and then release.

3. how often must you replace / rebuild the coils

Replace coils when they break (mine is a month old) or you want to change the resistance!

4. how often must you replace your wicking material?

I use cotton and change it every morning... the vape is so much purer that way!

I'm going to attempt a coil with ekowool wicking tonight, wish me good luck hehehe

Best of luck!

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## Metal Liz

thanks for the help guys 

follow up on question 1 

I replaced the cotton now at lunch time and my airhole is on the side, can't figure out how to get it to the top again hahaha
if it's pointing to the side, is this still okay?


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## PeterHarris

is you airhole allinged with your coil?

maybe your RM2 base moved ?

the airhole should be anywhere on a 180 degrees away from you, so to the side is also fine - but the more towards the top the better

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## thekeeperza

Metal Liz said:


> thanks for the help guys
> 
> follow up on question 1
> 
> I replaced the cotton now at lunch time and my airhole is on the side, can't figure out how to get it to the top again hahaha
> if it's pointing to the side, is this still okay?


I think as long as the hole points to the sky when you vape it should be ok - depends on how you prefer holding your REO

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## Metal Liz

yeah i think it did move hahaha, i just turned the whole thing and the hole is now almost centre on top again and you're right, YUM YUM soooooo good  Thanks so much for helping with the silly questions

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## Rob Fisher

Metal Liz said:


> I replaced the cotton now at lunch time and my airhole is on the side, can't figure out how to get it to the top again hahaha if it's pointing to the side, is this still okay?


 
This is my biggest big bear with REO's... band new ones tend to have the hole perfectly on the other side of the button but as time goes on and things loosen up etc and especially when you use other attys the holes move... I vape each of my REO's differently because I'm convinced the hole needs to be in the air... so I check each time depending on which REO is in my Paw and modify my technique accordingly.

The technical boys and girls will talk about using O rings to get it back to the perfect position but I haven't been that successful at it.

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## Andre

Reonat said:


> Success!!! Hugh is restored back to his former glory and vaping like a champ. Have to admit it was really scary but I guess is proves that if I (a mommy from the burbs) can do it, anybody can.


Awesome, kudos! Am much impressed. And now you know how simple this thing really is.

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## Reonat

Metal Liz said:


> yeah i think it did move hahaha, i just turned the whole thing and the hole is now almost centre on top again and you're right, YUM YUM soooooo good  Thanks so much for helping with the silly questions


Watch that video that shows you how to roll the coil on to the reel of vapowire using a screwdriver. I find that much easier however you need a really thin mandrel (getting the terminology now) to put through the middle of the Ekowool. I used the needle attachment for a syringe and just nipped the sharp end off.

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## Andre

Metal Liz said:


> yeah i think it did move hahaha, i just turned the whole thing and the hole is now almost centre on top again and you're right, YUM YUM soooooo good  Thanks so much for helping with the silly questions


We all had those questions in the beginning! Do not fear to ask any question, your Reoville family will look after you as the Reonauts above have just shown in exemplary fashion.

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## Alex

Rob Fisher said:


> This is my biggest big bear with REO's... band new ones tend to have the hole perfectly on the other side of the button but as time goes on and things loosen up etc and especially when you use other attys the holes move... I vape each of my REO's differently because I'm convinced the hole needs to be in the air... so I check each time depending on which REO is in my Paw and modify my technique accordingly.
> 
> The technical boys and girls will talk about using O rings to get it back to the perfect position but I haven't been that successful at it.


 





use the 1mm o-ring pictured above, and you can pretty much position the reomizer in any position you like. I like having the coil facing opposite th firing button. Tighten it down without the top cap on.

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## johan

Alex said:


> use the 1mm o-ring pictured above, and you can pretty much position the reomizer in any position you like. I like having the coil facing opposite th firing button. Tighten it down without the top cap on.


 
Agree with Alex, but I prefer to use the 1.5mm O-ring in that position. Once tighten down the Reomizer is "put" and doesn't move around.

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## Andre

Alex said:


> use the 1mm o-ring pictured above, and you can pretty much position the reomizer in any position you like. I like having the coil facing opposite th firing button. Tighten it down without the top cap on.


 
Thanks, that shows the o-ring very well. Some use the thicker o-ring if the thinner one does not work well. Of course some people hold the Reo different than in the picture. I usually illustrate it as below. The air hole can be anywhere on the blue arrow line.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Thanks 1


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## Alex

johan said:


> Agree with Alex, but I prefer to use the 1.5mm O-ring in that position. Once tighten down the Reomizer is "put" and doesn't move around.


 
Agreed, I wasn't sure of the exact size of my oring. But it keeps that position, even when you over tighten the top cap.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Reonat

Alex said:


> Agreed, I wasn't sure of the exact size of my oring. But it keeps that position, even when you over tighten the top cap.


Is that what the o - rings in my bag of Reo goodies is for? Or should I as a standard have them elsewhere


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## Andre

Reonat said:


> Is that what the o - rings in my bag of Reo goodies is for? Or should I as a standard have them elsewhere


Yes, that is what they are for. Nowhere else to use them. Some use them, some do not.


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## Alex

Reonat said:


> Is that what the o - rings in my bag of Reo goodies is for? Or should I as a standard have them elsewhere


 
It was one of the orings I got with my Reo from @johan, I think it does come standard with the Reo.


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## johan

Reonat said:


> Is that what the o - rings in my bag of Reo goodies is for? Or should I as a standard have them elsewhere


 
Yes (2 sizes): big ones as explained by @Alex and very small ones are for juice bottle caps.


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## Rob Fisher

Alex said:


> use the 1mm o-ring pictured above, and you can pretty much position the reomizer in any position you like. I like having the coil facing opposite th firing button. Tighten it down without the top cap on.


 
So much easier when someone draws a picture for me! Works like gang busters on my SL/LP... but on my Standard with Cyclone the cyclone won't fire... but that's OK because it's almost perfect as it is... but I will do this on my Woodys! Thanks @Alex!

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## Rob Fisher

I Wondered what the hell they were for!

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## johan

Rob Fisher said:


> So much easier when someone draws a picture for me! Works like gang busters on my SL/LP... but on my Standard with Cyclone the cyclone won't fire... but that's OK because it's almost perfect as it is... but I will do this on my Woodys! Thanks @Alex!


 
Rob if I'm not mistaken, the centre pin on the Cyclone can be adjusted. If I'm correct, just unscrew the centre pin on the Cyclone a wee bit and try again.


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## Andre

johan said:


> Yes (2 sizes): big ones as explained by @Alex and very small ones are for juice bottle caps.


Are the juice bottle caps ones smaller? Think they are the same diameter and thicker. For the Grand. Smaller for the caps for the Mini of course.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## johan

Andre said:


> Are the juice bottle caps ones smaller? Think they are the same diameter and thicker. For the Grand. Smaller for the caps for the Mini of course.


 
No they are smaller; will take pics & sizes of each and post a bit later Andre.

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## johan



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## Andre

johan said:


> View attachment 8698


Thanks Johan. Actually for my ignorance they do look more or less the same size in real life, but I presume the inner diameter is the determining factor being 9.5 mm in the case of the cap ring (from ECF site converted from 3/8" to mm) as opposed to 10 mm on the other rings. The outer diameter of the cap ring is 12.7 mm (from 1/2") and those of the other rings are 12mm.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Rob Fisher

johan said:


> Rob if I'm not mistaken, the centre pin on the Cyclone can be adjusted. If I'm correct, just unscrew the centre pin on the Cyclone a wee bit and try again.


 
Good point! Will try that thanks @johan!


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## johan

Andre said:


> Thanks Johan. Actually for my ignorance it does look more or less the same size, but I presume the inner diameter is the determining factor being 9.5 mm in the case of the cap ring (from ECF site converted from 3/8" to mm) as opposed to 10 mm on the other rings. The outer diameter of the cap ring is 12.7 mm (from 1/2") and those of the other rings are 12mm.


 
Agree Andre, however measured with vernier, the cap O-ring is definitely an imperial size (my measurement was closer to 9 than 9.5mm), but the other 10mm ones are exact metric sizes (ID X Thickness).


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## Andre

johan said:


> Agree Andre, however measured with vernier, the cap O-ring is definitely an imperial size (my measurement was closer to 9 than 9.5mm), but the other 10mm ones are exact metric sizes (ID X Thickness).


Yip, that is what I gathered from Reosmods on ECF, the cap ring is imperial size, but the others are metric. Wish the Americans would now switch to metric.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Yiannaki

Guys, I have some questions re: subohming and ribbon wire.

1. What is the difference between say 1ohm and something like .6?

2. What are the advantages of sub ohming? 

3. If I decide to give the ribbon wire a go. Do I need ekowool? Reason I'm asking is, I saw rip did a build with cotton.

Thanks peeps


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## Rob Fisher

I'm no expert on sub ohming... but in a nutshell sub ohming is as hot as hell and kicks like a donkey! There is a big difference between 0,6Ω and 1Ω. I can vape at 1Ω but a 0,6Ω vape I need a long dip tip because it's hot!!!

I tried ribbon wire with both ekowool and cotton and it works fine with both.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## Andre

Yiannaki said:


> Guys, I have some questions re: subohming and ribbon wire.
> 
> 1. What is the difference between say 1ohm and something like .6?
> 2. What are the advantages of sub ohming?
> 3. If I decide to give the ribbon wire a go. Do I need ekowool? Reason I'm asking is, I saw rip did a build with cotton.
> Thanks peeps


To add to @Rob Fisher's comments:

Yes a hotter, more intense vape. Tobacco juices do particularly well at lower ohms. Some juices (e.g. fruit juices do not like to go too low).
A hotter, more intense vape.
As @Rob Fisher said.
The vast majority of Reonauts probably vape between 0.8 and 1.4 ohms. Of course there are a few that go lower. Like myself, I range from 0.45 on the Cyclone with AFC on dual coils to around 1.0. Much depends on the juice and personal preference. E.g., think it was Frenilla, which I like around 0.7, but @shabbar found it great at around 0.9. 

A good midpoint on which all juices will be ok should be around 0.9, but then again personal preference makes a huge difference - experiment, experiment.

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## Yiannaki

Many thanks @Andre and @Rob Fisher, helpful, quick to respond and informative as always  

I need to order to more wire so i can mess around with different builds. I want to see the difference between the different guage and type of wires. I want dense clouds

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## Andre

Yiannaki said:


> Many thanks @Andre and @Rob Fisher, helpful, quick to respond and informative as always
> 
> I need to order to more wire so i can mess around with different builds. I want to see the difference between the different guage and type of wires. I want dense clouds


Oh, that is another game, which I have no experience of. Low ohms and huge air holes are required. The higher the VG the denser the clouds. Direct lung hits are compulsory.

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## Alex

Just to add my experience here, the new Atomic I've been using for all of today with dual coils is fantastic. At .45 ohms, and using 28g wire - the flavours coming out of my juices are awesome. Having the AFC (Air Flow Control) option allows one to cool off the throat hit when needed. I'm very impressed with this atomizer. And one of the best things is not having to sqounk as often, as in hardly ever.

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## Yiannaki

@Andre - lung hits? noooooooooo 

I'll keep my current clouds then. Mouth to lung ftw!


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## Alex

johan said:


> View attachment 8698


 
@johan, after seeing the comparison, I see I am using the 1mm ring on mine, and it works for me.


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## johan

Alex said:


> @johan, after seeing the comparison, I see I am using the 1mm ring on mine, and it works for me.


 
I agree the 1mm O-ring will work, using the 1.5mm is just my personal preference.

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## Reonat

Alex said:


> Just to add my experience here, the new Atomic I've been using for all of today with dual coils is fantastic. At .45 ohms, and using 28g wire - the flavours coming out of my juices are awesome. Having the AFC (Air Flow Control) option allows one to cool off the throat hit when needed. I'm very impressed with this atomizer. And one of the best things is not having to sqounk as often, as in hardly ever.


How does that work? Sounds interesting but not sure I could manage dual right now ..


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## Alex

Reonat said:


> How does that work? Sounds interesting but not sure I could manage dual right now ..


 
Something like his

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## Reonat

Shoo that is higher grade! Why less squonking? Surely it sucks even more juice?


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## Andre

Reonat said:


> How does that work? Sounds interesting but not sure I could manage dual right now ..


You could probably manage it quite well, thinking of your repair kit competence, but I would first get some time, experience and experimenting with the Reomizer.

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## Alex

Reonat said:


> Shoo that is higher grade! Why less squonking? Surely it sucks even more juice?


 
Yeah  it does, but I only need to take a half to one second drags on that thing. It fulfills one rather quickly.

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## Silver

Yiannaki said:


> Many thanks @Andre and @Rob Fisher, helpful, quick to respond and informative as always
> 
> I need to order to more wire so i can mess around with different builds. I want to see the difference between the different guage and type of wires. I want dense clouds


 
Just to add @Yiannaki 
The difference between a 1 ohm and a 0.6 ohm is also the power you will get.
A 1 ohm will roughly get you 16 Watts of power (4 squared over 1) on a 4V batt. (ignoring volt drop) 
The 0.6 ohmer will get you about 27 Watts. That is nearly double the power! Because its nearly half the resistance. (P=V*V/R)

But a lot has to do with the way you achieve the 0.6 ohms.

Assume you did a simple microcoil with say 28g Kanthal around say 1.5mm ID, you would use about 7 wraps to get 1 ohm.
Incidentally, that's about my sweet spot for all day vaping. Decent power, good number of wraps to get enough vaporisation etc.
If I want 0.9 ohms, I do 6 wraps

But when I do fewer than 6 wraps on the microcoil, I find it doesn't work too well. I think its because the power is too high and there are not enough wraps.

Thats why I think peeps use the thicker wire, ribbon wire, dual coils and twisted coils.

I am still going through the coil journey myself. Still very early days for me

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## Yiannaki

Silver said:


> Just to add @Yiannaki
> The difference between a 1 ohm and a 0.6 ohm is also the power you will get.
> A 1 ohm will roughly get you 16 Watts of power (4 squared over 1) on a 4V batt. (ignoring volt drop)
> The 0.6 ohmer will get you about 27 Watts. That is nearly double the power! Because its nearly half the resistance. (P=V*V/R)
> 
> But a lot has to do with the way you achieve the 0.6 ohms.
> 
> Assume you did a simple microcoil with say 28g Kanthal around say 1.5mm ID, you would use about 7 wraps to get 1 ohm.
> Incidentally, that's about my sweet spot for all day vaping. Decent power, good number of wraps to get enough vaporisation etc.
> If I want 0.9 ohms, I do 6 wraps
> 
> But when I do fewer than 6 wraps on the microcoil, I find it doesn't work too well. I think its because the power is too high and there are not enough wraps.
> 
> Thats why I think peeps use the thicker wire, ribbon wire, dual coils and twisted coils.
> 
> I am still going through the coil journey myself. Still very early days for me



Hey silver 

Thank you kindly for the post. It was very helpful. I will give your daily setup a bash!

I'm very keen to give the ribbon wire a go and she how it vapes.


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## Yiannaki

Silver said:


> Just to add @Yiannaki
> The difference between a 1 ohm and a 0.6 ohm is also the power you will get.
> A 1 ohm will roughly get you 16 Watts of power (4 squared over 1) on a 4V batt. (ignoring volt drop)
> The 0.6 ohmer will get you about 27 Watts. That is nearly double the power! Because its nearly half the resistance. (P=V*V/R)
> 
> But a lot has to do with the way you achieve the 0.6 ohms.
> 
> Assume you did a simple microcoil with say 28g Kanthal around say 1.5mm ID, you would use about 7 wraps to get 1 ohm.
> Incidentally, that's about my sweet spot for all day vaping. Decent power, good number of wraps to get enough vaporisation etc.
> If I want 0.9 ohms, I do 6 wraps
> 
> But when I do fewer than 6 wraps on the microcoil, I find it doesn't work too well. I think its because the power is too high and there are not enough wraps.
> 
> Thats why I think peeps use the thicker wire, ribbon wire, dual coils and twisted coils.
> 
> I am still going through the coil journey myself. Still very early days for me


I must add that it's been about just over two weeks now. I'm loving every minute of it!

I'm still unsure of what my perfect setup is and I chop and change coils every second day or so just to try something different. so hence all my questions the whole time 

Got the ultimate device (at least in my eyes) I'm just looking for that coil setup that just feels "right".

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Silver

Pleasure @Yiannaki 

The mistake I made once was try a whole bunch of coil types over a few days. (different gauges, twisted, different IDs)
Didn't like any of them and was so confused.

Then I decided to just focus on one thing and try get it right.
I focused on the simple "microcoil" type of coil, like the one you did. 
Its taken me a while, many coils - but I do have the luxury of multiple devices. 

My happy place at the moment is as follows:

1.5mm ID, 28g Kanthal, cotton
- 0.9 ohms for tobacco juices (6 wraps)
- 1.1 to 1.3 ohms for other juices (7 to 9 wraps)

I am now ready to start venturing into the Ribbon wire/Ekowool domain.

Not saying you mustn't try new things, just that I think it helps to optimise your current setup and know it well.
Then when you try something else, you will notice even the slightest change.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Silver

Yiannaki said:


> I must add that it's been about just over two weeks now. I'm loving every minute of it!
> 
> I'm still unsure of what my perfect setup is and I chop and change coils every second day or so just to try something different. so hence all my questions the whole time
> 
> Got the ultimate device (at least in my eyes) I'm just looking for that coil setup that just feels "right".


 
Another thing which helped me alot:
- write down the specs of each coil you do (ID, wraps, wire, coil position) - and a few notes on how you found the vape.
- also play with the positioning of the coil. Closer to the edge versus in the middle, higher versus lower. You might be surprised at how much difference just a 1mm height adjustment makes to the vape

Reactions: Like 2


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## Yiannaki

Silver said:


> Pleasure @Yiannaki
> 
> The mistake I made once was try a whole bunch of coil types over a few days. (different gauges, twisted, different IDs)
> Didn't like any of them and was so confused.
> 
> Then I decided to just focus on one thing and try get it right.
> I focused on the simple "microcoil" type of coil, like the one you did.
> Its taken me a while, many coils - but I do have the luxury of multiple devices.
> 
> My happy place at the moment is as follows:
> 
> 1.5mm ID, 28g Kanthal, cotton
> - 0.9 ohms for tobacco juices (6 wraps)
> - 1.1 to 1.3 ohms for other juices (7 to 9 wraps)
> 
> I am now ready to start venturing into the Ribbon wire/Ekowool domain.
> 
> Not saying you mustn't try new things, just that I think it helps to optimise your current setup and know it well.
> Then when you try something else, you will notice even the slightest change.



That's a fair point that you make. Instead of being jack of all trades and master of none, I'll rather focus efforts on getting the 28g micro coil right and just experimenting with wraps, position and height. 

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge, I really appreciate it man.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Andre

Very sage advice, @Silver.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thanks 1


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## Silver

Only a pleasure @Yiannaki 

But do share your findings too.

We need to build our REO knowledge database across all the REONauts

Reactions: Like 1


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## Yiannaki

Silver said:


> Only a pleasure @Yiannaki
> 
> But do share your findings too.
> 
> We need to build our REO knowledge database across all the REONauts



With all the reo guru's here on the forum like yourself, I've gone from completely clueless to competent overnight!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Silver

Andre said:


> Very sage advice, @Silver.


 
Thank you @Andre - I know a sage REO pioneer in a faraway place...

Reactions: Like 2


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## Metal Liz

Silly question... do you get closed lids for the little extra reo bottles?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Andre

Metal Liz said:


> Silly question... do you get closed lids for the little extra reo bottles?


What do you mean by "closed lids"? Nipples and caps?


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## Rob Fisher

Metal Liz said:


> Silly question... do you get closed lids for the little extra reo bottles?


 
Yes you do Lizzie!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Rob Fisher




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## Andre

Metal Liz said:


> Silly question... do you get closed lids for the little extra reo bottles?


 


Andre said:


> What do you mean by "closed lids"? Nipples and caps?


 
Ok, wait, just looked at your Vape Mail pics. VapeMob gave you replacement caps to fit over the tube inside. Yes, I think they forgot to order extra bottles!

Yes, as @Rob Fisher said, for sure you get complete caps. I might still have one or two around. PM me your details and I shall post them to you, if you want?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Metal Liz

Ah that would be awesome thanks Andre, you rock

Reactions: Like 1


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## Metal Liz

Is it normal for the reo driptip to be a bit wobbly and loosish?


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## Alex

Metal Liz said:


> Is it normal for the reo driptip to be a bit wobbly and loosish?


 
The one that comes with it? yeah

Just use some dental floss between o-ring and drip tip to tighten that sucker up.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Alex

Or get a Stingray X mech mod with the super duper awesome drip tip and sell it again, minus the drip tip of course.


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## Metal Liz

Hahaha thanks Alex, will try the first helpful hint, will skip on the second hahaha

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Silver

Metal Liz said:


> Is it normal for the reo driptip to be a bit wobbly and loosish?



Some are wobblier than others
You can do the cotton thread thing but didnt work nicely for me. Maybe i did it wrong. 
But you can put on any other drip tip.

Reactions: Thanks 1


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## Genosmate

Rob Fisher said:


> I just looked and none of the other spare tubes have it? It appears to be stainless steel.
> 
> View attachment 3063


Hi Rob

I think that part only comes in the tube as part of the "bottle and tube" kit,you don't get them in the replacement tubes.
I haven't taken my REO apart but I think its serves a couple of purposes,I assume that the ID of the tube is a little big to just push onto the underside of the positive pin in the connector,so it looks like the silicone tube is put in some boiling water for a few seconds and then pushed over the nipple/bush.Secondly when this is screwed on the bottom of the post it would stop the beryillium copper firing pin slipping down the pin.

Reactions: Like 1


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## shabbar

i also have a few caps to close the bottles but have never used them


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