# Is The Ego-ce4 Charger Compatible With A Twisp?



## sPiKeY89 (20/2/14)

Hi peeps. As the topic states. Thanks in advance.


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## Stroodlepuff (20/2/14)

Hi @sPiKeY89 

As far as I know it is, we had a customer come in and we tested on one of ours which is a CE5 Charger, but I am sure they are the same??


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## Derick (20/2/14)

if the connection fits securely so that there is no sparking or anything, then yes the charger will work - (does the twisp use an ego thread?)

For an electronics standpoint, they are all made to charge Li-ion Batteries which all have a cutoff at 4.2 volts - the nicer ones have short circuit protection and some even have a heat cutoff

The only chargers I would stay away from are the generic rechargeable battery chargers you get at dischem and such - those batteries have much lower voltages


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## sPiKeY89 (20/2/14)

Thanks guys. Reason being, I had the EGO-CE4 but a mate of mine fried it by putting liquid in the centre. Went halfsies with a friend and got the twisp but they are out of stock on chargers. So now I have the old charger, just wanted to know if it will damage the twisp. Going to try it out.


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## annemarievdh (20/2/14)

It is exactley the same charger, i have bouth. 


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## Rob Fisher (20/2/14)

I'm charging my eGo-C Twists and my Twisp Batteries on the chargers that came with both devices no problem.

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## johan (20/2/14)

From an electronics point of view; they are all same "cheap-and-nasty-made-in-a-hell-of-a-hurry-in-china" opened up a few, same basic circuitry: 5Vin, 4.2V out with current limiting +/-400mA.

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## johan (20/2/14)

O forget to mention; all have 2 LEDs inside (Red & Green), Red LED on when battery voltage < 3.4V (thus charging) & Green LED on (Red off) 3.7 to 4.2V. I can post similar circuitry here or in the DIY forum for the mech-mod guys that wants to check there battery status.


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## Andre (20/2/14)

johanct said:


> O forget to mention; all have 2 LEDs inside (Red & Green), Red LED on when battery voltage < 3.4V (thus charging) & Green LED on (Red off) 3.7 to 4.2V. I can post similar circuitry here or in the DIY forum for the mech-mod guys that wants to check there battery status.


Not the foggiest what you are talking about, @johanct. But I do know there will be a huge demand on this forum for something like the picture below to measure our battery voltage.


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## Rob Fisher (20/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Not the foggiest what you are talking about, @johanct. But I do know there will be a huge demand on this forum for something like the picture below to measure our battery voltage.



Yes please!


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## johan (20/2/14)

That is used for Lithium polymer batteries (will also work on Li-ion), on the bottom (white of display) it shows single cell up to 6 cell (marked 1S to 6S). So if you want to check your battery voltage you will connect battery minus to first pin (left with pins facing towards you) and battery positive connected to the second pin (as on your photo

).

Like so:

View attachment 1470


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## Andre (20/2/14)

johanct said:


> That is used for Lithium polymer batteries (will also work on Li-ion), on the bottom (white of display) it shows single cell up to 6 cell (marked 1S to 6S). So if you want to check your battery voltage you will connect battery minus to first pin (left with pins facing towards you) and battery positive connected to the second pin (as on your photo
> View attachment 1471
> ).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the explanation. Where can I buy a doohickey like that. Not the component parts (I will certainly bugger up the putting together), but the whole thing like in my picture. Just will be easier to check my batteries, than having to take out battery from Reo, take out battery from Vamo, put in Reo battery in Vamo, press button 5 times to power up, measure volts, take out battery from Vamo, put in Reo, put Vamo battery back......not even included all the screwing and unscrewing parts!!!! And I do not want a huge multimeter to do that job. Should also work on LiMn?

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## johan (20/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Thanks for the explanation. Where can I buy a doohickey like that. Not the component parts (I will certainly bugger up the putting together), but the whole thing like in my picture. Just will be easier to check my batteries, than having to take out battery from Reo, take out battery from Vamo, put in Reo battery in Vamo, press button 5 times to power up, measure volts, take out battery from Vamo, put in Reo, put Vamo battery back......not even included all the screwing and unscrewing parts!!!! And I do not want a huge multimeter to do that job. Should also work on LiMn?



doohickey? talking about display or the wires? (or both?). My suggestion will be to get the 510/ego connector (or whatever connects to your setup) and then any techie will be able to make it up for you.

And yes it will work on any battery even Li-mn:

Connection 1 & 2: Up to 4.25V
Connection 1 & 3: Up to 8.45V
Connection 1 & 4: Up to 12.65V
etc.


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## Andre (20/2/14)

johanct said:


> doohickey? talking about display or the wires? (or both?). My suggestion will be to get the 510/ego connector (or whatever connects to your setup) and then any techie will be able to make it up for you.
> 
> And yes it will work on any battery even Li-mn:
> 
> ...


Both together, like the one lying on top of all the plastic bags - all neat and tidy and swanky looking. And have been trying my best to get you to volunteer to make me (and a lot of other members I'm sure) one or two to buy! I use loose, rechargeable AW IMR batteries. Doohickey is just a generic name for the complete gadget.


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## johan (20/2/14)

Thanks, a new word for me to memorise (how the heck do you spell f#@ "memorise") . @Matthee I've got 1 display and will make it up for you during the weekend. The display I bought out of curiosity during my last trip to China, but I've seen them on ebay as well.


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## Andre (20/2/14)

johanct said:


> Thanks, a new word for me to memorise (how the heck do you spell f#@ "memorise") . @Matthee I've got 1 display and will make it up for you during the weekend. The display I bought out of curiosity during my last trip to China, but I've seen them on ebay as well.


Great, thanks. No hurry @johanct. And I insist to pay for your expertise, if you please. We can work it out via PM.


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## Silver (23/2/14)

Its been a long, long time since I used a multimeter, but surely those handheld ones that you get fairly cheaply can measure voltage? And resistance for that matter? It also has two probes and a LCD screen. I don't think they are very expensive, surely they will do the job too? I recall someone somewhere in the forum mentioned you can get them for under R100. I may be wrong about the price though. Anyway, I am interested in getting one of those myself...


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## Andre (23/2/14)

Silver1 said:


> Its been a long, long time since I used a multimeter, but surely those handheld ones that you get fairly cheaply can measure voltage? And resistance for that matter? It also has two probes and a LCD screen. I don't think they are very expensive, surely they will do the job too? I recall someone somewhere in the forum mentioned you can get them for under R100. I may be wrong about the price though. Anyway, I am interested in getting one of those myself...


Certainly they can. I do have one somewhere in my 4x4 kit. But that is a big thing for a small job, especially when travelling.

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## Silver (23/2/14)

Just found this on Communica's website
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1400925579
This one is R125
Only problem I see for resistance is that its lowest scale is around the 200 ohm level. So not sure how accurate it will be when measuring coils at say 1.3 ohm versus say 1.5 ohm 

They also have many other multimeters, some are very expensive. I assume the quality and the precision is the issue. I am not sure what quality or precision of multimeter we would require for vaping purposes. Perhaps the electronics experts can give us some advice here.


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## Silver (23/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Certainly they can. I do have one somewhere in my 4x4 kit. But that is a big thing for a small job, especially when travelling.



I hear you on the travelling issue @Matthee.


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## Derick (23/2/14)

Only thing to remember when using a multimeter with coil resistance, is first the put your two leads together and measure the lead resistance - then subtract that from your reading when you measure the coil

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## Silver (23/2/14)

Thanks @Derick - do you think those cheaper multimeters are capable of reading the ohms we need for vaping?


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## Derick (23/2/14)

Yep I have one from Chaimberlains - it was 99.99 and reads ohms just fine from 0.01 upwards

It looks pretty much exactly like the one below - you just put it on the lowest setting (the 200 means up to 200 Ohms) and it will read sub-ohm just fine

Problem with reading low ohms with a multimeter though is that it will depend on how hard you press the lead contacts to the coil wire - the harder you press, the better the connection and therefore less ohms - so it can be tricky

Much better to use a ecig Ohm meter

It works great for voltage though - but these days the nicer chargers will have an lcd display to tell you your voltage as well


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## Silver (23/2/14)

I suppose that's why the electronic mods have built in voltmeters and resistance checkers 

Thanks for the tips on pressing the probes down onto the wire. I imagine this is probably a very difficult thing to do when the coil is mounted in the atomiser. LOL...


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## Derick (23/2/14)

heh yep - you can get 10 different readings with 10 different tries

The newer ohm meters now have a voltage meter on them as well - also with a 510 connection - so you put the battery in your device and screw it in to get a voltage reading

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## johan (24/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Great, thanks. No hurry @johanct. And I insist to pay for your expertise, if you please. We can work it out via PM.



Morning @Matthee pm send:


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## Andre (24/2/14)

That looks great! Thank you, Sir. Would I be able to test a battery whilst in the Reo or is that not advisable?


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## johan (24/2/14)

@Matthee if you can get the probes to connect with the + & - of battery while seated in your Reo, Yes by all means, just don't short the + probe with the conductive part of the casing. It would be interesting to see if there is any voltage drop and if so, by how much if you press the button.


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## Andre (24/2/14)

johanct said:


> @Matthee if you can get the probes to connect with the + & - of battery while seated in your Reo, Yes by all means, just don't short the + probe with the conductive part of the casing. It would be interesting to see if there is any voltage drop and if so, by how much if you press the button.


Let me get this right, the red is the - probe and the black the + probe? Black to go to the battery's + side and the red to the - side?


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## johan (24/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Let me get this right, the red is the - probe and the black the + probe? Black to go to the battery's + side and the red to the - side?



HOSA @Matthee! RED is always positive (+) & BLACK is always negative (-), thus RED goes to battery + & BLACK goes to battery -

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## Andre (24/2/14)

johanct said:


> HOSA @Matthee! RED is always positive (+) & BLACK is always negative (-), thus RED goes to battery + & BLACK goes to battery -


Rescued! Thanks. Car battery the same?


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## BhavZ (24/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Rescued! Thanks. Car battery the same?


Yip that is correct


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## johan (24/2/14)

Matthee said:


> Rescued! Thanks. Car battery the same?



Yes as @BhavZ confirmed

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## sPiKeY89 (26/2/14)

Okay so it works, but now I have 2 different wall adaptors, both have the same voltage but they both have different mA readings on the sticker, the USB charger is 420mA, one adaptor is more than 420mA and one is less (will give exact readings later tonight) Which is better to use?


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## Derick (26/2/14)

You can use anything up to 1000mA or 1A - the lower the mA the longer it will take to charge

EDIT: Just need to add, 1A is for most batteries, if your battery gets anything warmer than luke warm, then 1A is too high for it, 500mA is safe for pretty much all the batteries out there

EDIT2: Sorry I'm sick and high on all the meds I took...

Safest is to charge your batteries at it's at 1C - which is it's mAh rating , so a 650mAh battery can be safely charged with 650mA max

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## BhavZ (26/2/14)

Derick said:


> You can use anything up to 1000mA or 1A - the lower the mA the longer it will take to charge
> 
> EDIT: Just need to add, 1A is for most batteries, if your battery gets anything warmer than luke warm, then 1A is too high for it, 500mA is safe for pretty much all the batteries out there



with regards to ego's can I use the standard usb cable that comes with the ego battery and plug it into a 1A Samsung S3 wall adapter?


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## Derick (26/2/14)

Batteries are normally made to be charged at 1C - i.e 1 times its mAh rating - so if your Ego is 650mAh, then the safest charge you can do for it is 650mA - there are better batteries that can charge at 2C and up, but I doubt that would put that high quality stuff in an Ego

So for safety sake, no - rather stick withe the standard 500mA

So I realize my previous post is not 100% correct, I was thinking of different batteries - I will edit and correct


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## BhavZ (26/2/14)

Derick said:


> Batteries are normally made to be charged at 1C - i.e 1 times its mAh rating - so if your Ego is 650mAh, then the safest charge you can do for it is 650mA - there are better batteries that can charge at 2C and up, but I doubt that would put that high quality stuff in an Ego
> 
> So for safety sake, no - rather stick withe the standard 500mA
> 
> So I realize me previous post is not 100% correct, I was thinking of different batteries - I will edit and correct


Thanks Derick


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## Silver (8/3/14)

I read somewhere on Battery University that the best is to have a charger that charges it up initially quite fast and then slows down to a trickle for the last part.

Not sure if these little wall adapters for the 650mah batteries (Twisp etc) actually do that. 

So my logic is that using the lower mA rated charger is safer, slower - and should be better for the battery. Only downside is that it's slower.

I am not a battery expert at all and don't claim to know all about it. @Derick, @johanct - what do you think of my logic above?


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## johan (8/3/14)

Silver said:


> I read somewhere on Battery University that the best is to have a charger that charges it up initially quite fast and then slows down to a trickle for the last part.
> 
> Not sure if these little wall adapters for the 650mah batteries (Twisp etc) actually do that.
> 
> ...



@Silver to answer your Q's: each battery manufacturer specifies the ideal charging curves (current & voltage) for his specific battery in the data sheets. Most curves that I've seen for Li-ion, Li-mn and Li-pol agree more/less what you've stated - high initial charge current (initial 1A that gradually tapers off to 0A as the battery reaches +/-4.23V).

The small USB chargers all work on constant voltage (+/-4.2V) and constant current (+/-420mA), meaning the voltage is limited to +/-4.23V and the current is limited to +/- 420mA. The Red LED stays on while the battery draws 'charge' current and the green LED comes on when the battery doesn't draw any more 'charge' current at +/- 4.23V.

The Nitecore's and Efest type desktop chargers are limited to 1A/bay charge current and their voltages are also limited to maximum +/- 4.25V, and follows a general industry accepted charge curve. The battery and unit protection circuitry built into these units are far more better than the small USB chargers, that is why all Ego, Evod etc. type small batteries have built in protection circuitry in the head (top part where atomizer/clearomizer connects) as well.

With Li-ion, Li-mn and Li-pol _Fast_ or _Slow_ charging doesn't influence the life time of these batteries as such. The biggest influences are Low discharge (below manufacturers specs), High operating temperature and excessive current beyond manufacturer specs. Hope this bring some clarity

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## Silver (8/3/14)

Ok - thanks for the explanation @johanct - that is very interesting and enlightening.

So then, if you don't have the ideal voltage/current charging curve for your battery or you can't control the curve of the chargers you have at your disposal, is my original logic right then? I.e. safest to use the charger that outputs the lowest constant mA current?

As an example, lets say you have a Ego style battery and you don't know what the right specs are for a suitable charger.

You have two charging devices to your disposal:
- a cell phone charger that say outputs 4.2V and 420mA
- a GPS unit charger that outputs 4.2V and 750mA

Am I right in saying you should go for the 420mA charger, just in case the battery doesnt "like" the 750mA?


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## johan (8/3/14)

@Silver - with Ego style batteries, yes your conclusion is correct.

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