Show us your Builds - User Made Tank Coils (Protanks, Nautilus Etc.)
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I have done about 5 recoils. 32G Kanthal 4 wrap on a 1.4mm Stanley precision mini screwdriver gives me 1.9/2.0 Ohm coil.
Initially I also thought it was the wick that was causing the gurgle. Also tried cotton but both would start gurgling after a few minutes use. Until I experienced it 3 times in a row with brand new PT2 minis out of the box. I tried turning the rubber seal on the coil head upside down like some have mentioned in the forum. Still did it.
Then I took the standard coil and added another rubber seal inverted on top of the original and bob's your uncle - no gurgle. It is a lot more difficult to screw the base onto the tank with the 2 seals and cross threading could occur but damn does it vape good.....excuse the blurry pic. My phone just would not focus.
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chimney coils play by their own rules. pretty sure i didn't wick it properly 
Its an art getting it right gave up on mine because one rewick would vape like a champ and the next would leak. You have to pack the cotton in there pretty well.chimney coils play by their own rules. pretty sure i didn't wick it properly
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For anyone looking for information on rebuilding Aspire Nautilus coils please check this thread:
http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/aspire-nautilus.1389/
http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/aspire-nautilus.1389/
Rebuilt EVOD/PT head
ID : 1.5mm
Ohm : 1.4
Cotton wick
ID : 1.5mm
Ohm : 1.4
Cotton wick
Great taste and decent clouds. Vaping it 13 -15watts on the SVD. Took a picture of the wick but did not come out decent enough.
I have brand new coils that I will rebuild without using them at all. The stock coil does not compare.
I do the same, the only reason I buy a stock coil is cause I need a new cup and insulator. Toss the stock coil the moment I get it. Stock can't even come close to a decent micro build.
Ok so two coils . One 10 wraps and one 7 wraps to put it neat on the bottom . Extra wick in between . Look nice but checked the coils with evic mvp and vtr 3 diffrent reading but all sub ohm.Tried on the vtr . Not much vapour .
What i ve done wrong?
What gauge kanthal did you use?
28g with 10 wraps and a cotton wick with 1.4 diameter normally gives me 1.5 ohms with lots of clouds.
Today i built a 1.6 ohm with 28g and a 2.0 diameter and it was creating fog.
Also it looks like your wick is too long, try shortening it so that it is in line with the rim of the base
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28g with 10 wraps and a cotton wick with 1.4 diameter normally gives me 1.5 ohms with lots of clouds.
Today i built a 1.6 ohm with 28g and a 2.0 diameter and it was creating fog.
Also it looks like your wick is too long, try shortening it so that it is in line with the rim of the base
Sent from my S4 LTE using my finger
The three different ohm readings might be a sign of an interrupted connection.
What ohms value are you looking for? For me sub-ohm on a pt3 dual coil is too low and not suitable for a digimod. If you are looking at building a 1.5ohm dual coil you need to build 2 x 3ohm coils with equal wraps which is almost impossible with 28G Kanthal (too many wraps required) 30G or 32G is what you need to use.
Also the innokin products tend to understate the ohm value by about 0.4ohms. So a 0.9ohm reading on a vtr is actually 1.3ohm. As far as I know the vtr won't fire a coil less than 1.2ohms.
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With regards to the vapour, your "insulating" silica wick (the one that goes between the two coils) may be a bit too thick, try halving the thickness.
As @drew said, if the coils are not of equal ohms then the current will first travel to the coil with the least resistance then go to the next coil even though they are in parallel. for dual coil setups in an evod cup 32g works the best imo. Also you do not really wanna go sub ohm in an evod cup as you will burn the rubber insulator at the bottom and that can cause issues.
At the bottom of the cup (where the legs come out) try to ensue that none of the legs are touching, and that they are not sticking out, trim them as close to the cup as possible and take a flat screwdriver and try to tuck the legs in under the insulator.
Hope that helps, happy vaping!
As @drew said, if the coils are not of equal ohms then the current will first travel to the coil with the least resistance then go to the next coil even though they are in parallel. for dual coil setups in an evod cup 32g works the best imo. Also you do not really wanna go sub ohm in an evod cup as you will burn the rubber insulator at the bottom and that can cause issues.
At the bottom of the cup (where the legs come out) try to ensue that none of the legs are touching, and that they are not sticking out, trim them as close to the cup as possible and take a flat screwdriver and try to tuck the legs in under the insulator.
Hope that helps, happy vaping!
I was actually try to redo the coil between 1.5 and 1.8 ohm .im not interested in sub ohm yet as well because i dont really understand the benefit . I will in the future when i have a device that can actually manage that .
Do you build single or double coils?
I have never tried doing a dual coil rebuild in the mini Protank
However, my single coil build which came out at 1.6 ohms performed beautifully for about a month, with changing the cotton wick every few days. It was a 28g Kanthal, approx 1.5mm ID and 10 wraps. It died on me a few days ago and I need to rebuild.
However, my single coil build which came out at 1.6 ohms performed beautifully for about a month, with changing the cotton wick every few days. It was a 28g Kanthal, approx 1.5mm ID and 10 wraps. It died on me a few days ago and I need to rebuild.
Check out my post on that coil @andro
http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/show-us-your-working-wick-and-coil-setup.246/page-50#post-21558
http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/show-us-your-working-wick-and-coil-setup.246/page-50#post-21558
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