Johan,please don't weaken and get one of these things
I'm so weak that I only dare use my Reo, Woody and ePipe, all with long lasting no need to suck 26G Kanthal. Not brave enough to venture into something that will cause the "bends".
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Johan,please don't weaken and get one of these things
Thanks for the advice @DaveH but this is starting to sound like some serious PT to have a couple of puffsNo flavour - seems odd, I really don't know what to say.
I think the syringe method does help it, but also with the coil in the tank sucking on the mouth piece with the air holes completely closed does seem to help as well. Sucking on mine now produces no air bubbles.
The flavour is great I can feel it 'dancing on my tongue'
Dave
I'm of the impression that the 'dry hits' some of you get with these gCeramic coils is not primary due to poor wicking. Obviously the 'dry hit' one gets is because the wicking material has no juice to dissipate the heat thus a 'dry hit'. However I believe the 'dry hits' from these gCeramic coils manifests itself only in the top millimeter or two of the ceramic coil.
Ceramics are poor conductors of heat, that means they retain the heat quite well and as we all know heat rises. This surely means the top part of the ceramic coils must get much hotter than the lower part of the ceramic coil. If the top part of the ceramic coil is hotter there will come a time when the top part of the ceramic is so hot that the wicking material is unable to hold the juice in liquid form and the juice is constantly being evaporated. The lower part of the ceramic coil because it is cooler will be saturated with juice, firing the coil will cause the lower part of the coil to vaporize the juice however the top part of the ceramic coil has very little liquid juice around it because it has already been vaporized. With no liquid to vaporize the heat is dissipated into the wicking material and causes the 'dry hit'.
Just a thought or two - any comments.
Dave
Any tips on getting the thing apart please?One thing I don't like about the Kangertech coil heads is the holes for the juice to wick through is half way up the coil head. I have always though it would be better if it was lower down. It is very easy for the juice level in the tank to drop below the wicking holes without noticing and getting a dry hit.
I have done the following before on the normal Kanger coil heads. I really can't say if it makes any difference or not.
This is what I have done.
The coil head is pulled apart and the hole is elongated to form a slot all the way to the bottom.
View attachment 49410
The inner of the coil head is rotated to align the two slots
View attachment 49411
The two parts are pushed together
View attachment 49412
Good to go
View attachment 49413
It was done in a hurry so it is a bit rough and ready.
Still works using it now, whether it makes any difference to the wicking properties of the coil head I really can't say.
Dave
Any tips on getting the thing apart please?
I planned to try something similar but the first one I tried worked OK (but I had already drilled it and stuffed it up),second one ******! and the last one the thing separated hard to explain but the red arrow points to what I mean.
I think its more cost effective to send them to someone in possession of said pumping equipment BTW I said that they are better I didn't say they were goodI need a chamber and pump!
I
I think its more cost effective to send them to someone in possession of said pumping equipment BTW I said that they are better I didn't say they were good