18650 Battery Safety Grades table
- Thread starter Alex
- Start date
Something that might be helpful to the new guys (Mods please let me know if I need to move or repost)
There is a difference as to how you calculate amp draw between Mecs and Regulated mods.
Mecs are strait forward your coil is what determine the amp draw. The lower the ohms the closer you get to a dead short and the higher the amperage on the cell / battery (1 cell = cell but more then one cell = battery).
With regulated mods you can leave the coil out of the equation, what you need to look at is the wattage. The reason for this is in the chip which effectively isolates the the coil from the battery.
Regulated mods uses a DC to DC inverter and voltage regulators (This is the part that makes good or bad ramping times)
Because a regulated mod looks at wattage or voltage (but in most cases wattage) it needs to draw power from the battery to convert volts/amps to wattage. This is the reason that your vape experience wont change with battery drain on a regulated mod as it does on a mechanical mod. As volts drop the chip pulls more amps.
There is a very lengthy and technical explanation and yes coil resistance does play a part but not directly on the battery and in my opinion is allot of typing with very little relevance to my explanation
To skip getting to technical into this I can show you the math
In order to calculate if a coil is safe on your Mech, you would look at volts and divide that by ohms. so in example
0.5ohm resister (Coil) on a fresh battery which is 4.2 volts.
4.2 / 0.5 = 8.4amp which is fairly safe.
but to lite up a 0.5 ohm coil on a regulated mod your going to need watts. lets say 40 watt
now things change a bit
here we want to divide wattage by voltage
40 / 4.2 = 9.52 which is almost 10amp which is still pretty safe, however lets rather calculate this on a used battery lets say 3.7 (Most mods call this dead battery)
First lets look at mecs
3.7 / 0.5 = 7.4 which is actually safer
But on a regulated mod
40 / 3.7 = 10.8 almost 11 amp which is less safe
Basically what i am saying here, As your cell voltage drops your mod is going to pull more amps to maintain the wattage level. if you can and where possible try and go for a bit better battery/cell then what is needed on regs and if you calculate amps rather calculate on dead battery not fresh battery.
I screwed up on this not that long ago...
I bought the Profile RTA because I wanted to play with mesh... 0.13ohm of vapy good flavor... but on my LUXE I was running two batteries ratted at 20amps but actual max drain was 18amp
lets do the math
I run at 65watt
65 / 3.7 = 17.5 amp
Fortuitously i'm running a series battery which means I only have 3.7V but I am pulling 17.5 amp across 2 cells which is 8.8amp per cell... back in the safe zone... what if I did this on a single cell mod?
Here is something else that is very important. Series does not double your amperage, it adds your amp/hour ratting up. Series balances the amp load across the number of cells. (Hence the Mech guys will decide on parallel for more volts and series for balanced load or weaker batteries for the same poof). This is also why a UPS or a backup battery normally runs in serial, more time out of a battery and the Amperage gets balanced across all batteries (Yes one ups, car battery, Bike battery, deepcycle battery are batteries. they are a bunch of cells in one container)
Regulated mods are very safe but they wont care if you have a 10amp cell or a 40amp cell they are going to pull the amps needed to maintain the desired wattage.
Lets say we are running a 30amp cell which is actually closer to 25amp and we have a couple of fused clapton's in. we need around 80watt to make those puppies glow.
80 / 3.7 = 22amp on a single cell mod... this is pushing the cell a little harder then what we should.
There is a difference as to how you calculate amp draw between Mecs and Regulated mods.
Mecs are strait forward your coil is what determine the amp draw. The lower the ohms the closer you get to a dead short and the higher the amperage on the cell / battery (1 cell = cell but more then one cell = battery).
With regulated mods you can leave the coil out of the equation, what you need to look at is the wattage. The reason for this is in the chip which effectively isolates the the coil from the battery.
Regulated mods uses a DC to DC inverter and voltage regulators (This is the part that makes good or bad ramping times)
Because a regulated mod looks at wattage or voltage (but in most cases wattage) it needs to draw power from the battery to convert volts/amps to wattage. This is the reason that your vape experience wont change with battery drain on a regulated mod as it does on a mechanical mod. As volts drop the chip pulls more amps.
There is a very lengthy and technical explanation and yes coil resistance does play a part but not directly on the battery and in my opinion is allot of typing with very little relevance to my explanation
To skip getting to technical into this I can show you the math
In order to calculate if a coil is safe on your Mech, you would look at volts and divide that by ohms. so in example
0.5ohm resister (Coil) on a fresh battery which is 4.2 volts.
4.2 / 0.5 = 8.4amp which is fairly safe.
but to lite up a 0.5 ohm coil on a regulated mod your going to need watts. lets say 40 watt
now things change a bit
here we want to divide wattage by voltage
40 / 4.2 = 9.52 which is almost 10amp which is still pretty safe, however lets rather calculate this on a used battery lets say 3.7 (Most mods call this dead battery)
First lets look at mecs
3.7 / 0.5 = 7.4 which is actually safer
But on a regulated mod
40 / 3.7 = 10.8 almost 11 amp which is less safe
Basically what i am saying here, As your cell voltage drops your mod is going to pull more amps to maintain the wattage level. if you can and where possible try and go for a bit better battery/cell then what is needed on regs and if you calculate amps rather calculate on dead battery not fresh battery.
I screwed up on this not that long ago...
I bought the Profile RTA because I wanted to play with mesh... 0.13ohm of vapy good flavor... but on my LUXE I was running two batteries ratted at 20amps but actual max drain was 18amp
lets do the math
I run at 65watt
65 / 3.7 = 17.5 amp
Fortuitously i'm running a series battery which means I only have 3.7V but I am pulling 17.5 amp across 2 cells which is 8.8amp per cell... back in the safe zone... what if I did this on a single cell mod?
Here is something else that is very important. Series does not double your amperage, it adds your amp/hour ratting up. Series balances the amp load across the number of cells. (Hence the Mech guys will decide on parallel for more volts and series for balanced load or weaker batteries for the same poof). This is also why a UPS or a backup battery normally runs in serial, more time out of a battery and the Amperage gets balanced across all batteries (Yes one ups, car battery, Bike battery, deepcycle battery are batteries. they are a bunch of cells in one container)
Regulated mods are very safe but they wont care if you have a 10amp cell or a 40amp cell they are going to pull the amps needed to maintain the desired wattage.
Lets say we are running a 30amp cell which is actually closer to 25amp and we have a couple of fused clapton's in. we need around 80watt to make those puppies glow.
80 / 3.7 = 22amp on a single cell mod... this is pushing the cell a little harder then what we should.
Something that might be helpful to the new guys (Mods please let me know if I need to move or repost)
There is a difference as to how you calculate amp draw between Mecs and Regulated mods.
Mecs are strait forward your coil is what determine the amp draw. The lower the ohms the closer you get to a dead short and the higher the amperage on the cell / battery (1 cell = cell but more then one cell = battery).
With regulated mods you can leave the coil out of the equation, what you need to look at is the wattage. The reason for this is in the chip which effectively isolates the the coil from the battery.
Regulated mods uses a DC to DC inverter and voltage regulators (This is the part that makes good or bad ramping times)
Because a regulated mod looks at wattage or voltage (but in most cases wattage) it needs to draw power from the battery to convert volts/amps to wattage. This is the reason that your vape experience wont change with battery drain on a regulated mod as it does on a mechanical mod. As volts drop the chip pulls more amps.
There is a very lengthy and technical explanation and yes coil resistance does play a part but not directly on the battery and in my opinion is allot of typing with very little relevance to my explanation
To skip getting to technical into this I can show you the math
In order to calculate if a coil is safe on your Mech, you would look at volts and divide that by ohms. so in example
0.5ohm resister (Coil) on a fresh battery which is 4.2 volts.
4.2 / 0.5 = 8.4amp which is fairly safe.
but to lite up a 0.5 ohm coil on a regulated mod your going to need watts. lets say 40 watt
now things change a bit
here we want to divide wattage by voltage
40 / 4.2 = 9.52 which is almost 10amp which is still pretty safe, however lets rather calculate this on a used battery lets say 3.7 (Most mods call this dead battery)
First lets look at mecs
3.7 / 0.5 = 7.4 which is actually safer
But on a regulated mod
40 / 3.7 = 10.8 almost 11 amp which is less safe
Basically what i am saying here, As your cell voltage drops your mod is going to pull more amps to maintain the wattage level. if you can and where possible try and go for a bit better battery/cell then what is needed on regs and if you calculate amps rather calculate on dead battery not fresh battery.
I screwed up on this not that long ago...
I bought the Profile RTA because I wanted to play with mesh... 0.13ohm of vapy good flavor... but on my LUXE I was running two batteries ratted at 20amps but actual max drain was 18amp
lets do the math
I run at 65watt
65 / 3.7 = 17.5 amp
Fortuitously i'm running a series battery which means I only have 3.7V but I am pulling 17.5 amp across 2 cells which is 8.8amp per cell... back in the safe zone... what if I did this on a single cell mod?
Here is something else that is very important. Series does not double your amperage, it adds your amp/hour ratting up. Series balances the amp load across the number of cells. (Hence the Mech guys will decide on parallel for more volts and series for balanced load or weaker batteries for the same poof). This is also why a UPS or a backup battery normally runs in serial, more time out of a battery and the Amperage gets balanced across all batteries (Yes one ups, car battery, Bike battery, deepcycle battery are batteries. they are a bunch of cells in one container)
Regulated mods are very safe but they wont care if you have a 10amp cell or a 40amp cell they are going to pull the amps needed to maintain the desired wattage.
Lets say we are running a 30amp cell which is actually closer to 25amp and we have a couple of fused clapton's in. we need around 80watt to make those puppies glow.
80 / 3.7 = 22amp on a single cell mod... this is pushing the cell a little harder then what we should.
Arthster
What en epic awesome read. Thanks for this as it explains alot for me on batteries.
To be honest I was getting the regulated amp draw wrong as well up until a few months ago. I just always relied on the old coil calculator and off I went.
I happen to come across another article written by someone allot more clued up on electronics and batteries then I am.
The table states "Do not share after January 26, 2022"
I recon the raw data will remain the same and its his last document on battery CDR that is there as a guidline to vapers who want to make sure their coils stay inside the safe rating for the batteries they use.
Latest from Mooch on batteries.
Curious, I do not see Golisi batteries on here. I know he did review them before.
I noticed that as well and actually went to buy some yesterday but the vendor didnt have the 3000mah ones, didn't want the 2500mah.
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