A few questions.

circles

Noob Vaper
LV
6
 
Joined
26/5/16
Posts
11
Awards
8
Age
40
Location
Sandton
Morning peeps,

I'm currently running my Pico with the 0.3ohm coil that was pre-installed in the Melo. I also got a 0.5ohm coil as a spare, and @Andre has advised me that the 0.9ohm ceramic coils work great in the Melo.

Now, my question is, when I up resistance from 0.3, to say 0.9ohm, what does that actually do?

For info, I have my mod at 34w at the moment on the 0.3 coil.
 
Morning peeps,

I'm currently running my Pico with the 0.3ohm coil that was pre-installed in the Melo. I also got a 0.5ohm coil as a spare, and @Andre has advised me that the 0.9ohm ceramic coils work great in the Melo.

Now, my question is, when I up resistance from 0.3, to say 0.9ohm, what does that actually do?

For info, I have my mod at 34w at the moment on the 0.3 coil.

The flavour explosion when you switch to the 0.9 cCell will be substantial! And you will need to switch to 30 watts.
 
Morning peeps,

I'm currently running my Pico with the 0.3ohm coil that was pre-installed in the Melo. I also got a 0.5ohm coil as a spare, and @Andre has advised me that the 0.9ohm ceramic coils work great in the Melo.

Now, my question is, when I up resistance from 0.3, to say 0.9ohm, what does that actually do?

For info, I have my mod at 34w at the moment on the 0.3 coil.

It does exactly that. You have a higher resistance coil in now :) You wouldn't need as much power as the 0.3ohm coil which is rated up to a maximum of 80w. The 0.9ohm ceramic is rated from 15w - 35w. I find it perfect at around 27w - 30w.
 
Short and sweet answer, you are increasing your resistance and basically "choking" the current through your coils. Meaning, should you want to achieve the same "ramp up" of your coils, you will need to increase the power/watts.
 
It does exactly that. You have a higher resistance coil in now :) You wouldn't need as much power as the 0.3ohm coil which is rated up to a maximum of 80w. The 0.9ohm ceramic is rated from 15w - 35w. I find it perfect at around 27w - 30w.
+1 on this. I vape mine at around 20W and HRH around 16W. You will find your own sweet spot in the range mentioned. Remember to let the cCell coils soak for at least half an hour in the tank before you vape it. And do deep fake vapes on it before using it for the first time - suck on it without firing. Helps to make sure the ceramic is well saturated and do not give you dry hits. Once it is well primed it is just a question of fill up and vape thereafter.
 
+1 on this. I vape mine at around 20W and HRH around 16W. You will find your own sweet spot in the range mentioned. Remember to let the cCell coils soak for at least half an hour in the tank before you vape it. And do deep fake vapes on it before using it for the first time - suck on it without firing. Helps to make sure the ceramic is well saturated and do not give you dry hits. Once it is well primed it is just a question of fill up and vape thereafter.

Okay, so another noob question.

Say I build my own coil to 0.9 or 1.0ohm or whatever. How does one then determine the approximate range in watts to vape? Basically what I'm asking, is say I'm at 0.9ohm and Vape at 60watt, what will then happen.

Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my head around this.
 
Okay, so another noob question.

Say I build my own coil to 0.9 or 1.0ohm or whatever. How does one then determine the approximate range in watts to vape? Basically what I'm asking, is say I'm at 0.9ohm and Vape at 60watt, what will then happen.

Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my head around this.
Building... watts and Ohms... Resistance is a little moot... depends how much wire there is to heat up. This REALLY is what determines how many watts you will need. The rest is working with your resistance and amperage to stay in safe levels. resistance is just one factor we have the inherent qualities of various metals also. The plot thickens... lol... it always thickens...
 
Okay, so another noob question.

Say I build my own coil to 0.9 or 1.0ohm or whatever. How does one then determine the approximate range in watts to vape? Basically what I'm asking, is say I'm at 0.9ohm and Vape at 60watt, what will then happen.

Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my head around this.

If you build with thick wire and have a lot of wraps to get to 0.9, you can easily vape at 60w and even more, but if you use a very thin wire like 28g, 5 wraps will give you 0.9 Ohms and it will be a small coil. At 60w you will either burn the wick or melt the wire.
 
Okay, so another noob question.

Say I build my own coil to 0.9 or 1.0ohm or whatever. How does one then determine the approximate range in watts to vape? Basically what I'm asking, is say I'm at 0.9ohm and Vape at 60watt, what will then happen.

Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my head around this.
If you give it too much power for the resistance you will damage the coil/wick and get a horrible vape. The range becomes intuitive after a while. In the beginning always start low and gradually go up to find your sweet spot. But the ranges usually shown on commercial coils are a good indication.
 
Ive always been pondering the resistance/current relationship since I started vaping. So the following post is more pondering than answering your question - my apologies! To give just one answer to one of your questions, you can go to www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp , where you can enter your coil dimensions, and then look for the heat flux indicator. This indicator gives you an estimate of the coil heat after you give it an input Watt power level. And its colour coded, so if that shows a big angry red then you should dial down the power. I wrote a longish post on it earlier this week - when Im back at my PC Ill find it and link it here.

Now, unto the resistance. Some thoughts:

Practically speaking, the type of coil - whether it is just a single wire, or whether it is a coil with very large surface area (such as a Clapton or twisted coil) is the determining factor in vape production, as @Lord Vetinari said. Therefore, even though a coil is higher in resistance, it might give a larger vape output due to larger surface area (which might arise from more complex wire type, or just a larger coil with more wraps).

But apples with apples: suppose you have the same coil dimensions (diameter and number of wraps) but different wire guages with different resistivities. The surface area is, for argument's sake, the same (even though the lower guage coil have slightly larger SA, I think it is neglible). Now, past experience have taught me and others that the lower resistance coil will produce more vapour. The lower resistance coil will allow more current, but in principle, 50 Watts is 50 watts in terms of electron flow power regardless of current or voltage (that is to say, either the electrons move faster/with more force, or there is more of them). So what then actually influences the vape production in the lower resistance coil?
A higher resistance coil heats up quicker - this Ive measured using Escribe. So each unit of power will produce more heat in a higher resistance coil than a lower resistance coil. Sounds good, right? Unfortunately, that means the coil ramps up faster than it can cool (via airflow and evaporation of juice), and you end up burning your wick. Hence, you have to run at lower power, to the point where you effectively cancel the benefit of more efficient power to heating of a higher resistance coil. In temp control, you also see a quicker drop off of power when you hit the temp limit in a higher resistance coil. So as a result, we can run lower resistance coils at higher powers, and the tempo by which the coil heats up (especially once it starts evaporating ejuice) is slower, allowing for more vapour. The initial ramp-up (before juice evaporation) is almost identical for coils of different resistances - but once evaporation starts, the higher resistance coil heats up faster. To get MAAXXX CLOUDZZ and avoid dry-hitting you want to keep the ramp up after evaporation as low as possible. In technical terms I mentioned previously (again, Ill have to go look for the link), the equilibrium temperature of a lower resistance coil at the same wattage as a higher resistance coil is lower, allowing for more power and more vapour.

The principles remain the same for dual and multiple coils, where despite the resistance being reduced, the resistance and characteristics of each coil remains the same.

By the way:
In the days when mech mods were prevailent (in other words, a mod where we hit the coils with the max voltage of the battery, but cant adjust the power), building lower resistances allowed a vaper to get more watts to his coils, which was the principle method to maximise your vape output. This is considerably less of an issue with regulated variable voltage/power mods these days - it is very possible to build a powerful high resistance build. My current build in my Theorem is a powerful single coil running at 1.1 ohms...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys for very informative answers, really appreciated!

I think basically what I'm getting at, is a want the most cost effective build, in terms of not flying through bottles and bottles of juice, but still an overall good vape.
 
Thanks guys for very informative answers, really appreciated!

I think basically what I'm getting at, is a want the most cost effective build, in terms of not flying through bottles and bottles of juice, but still an overall good vape.

High Ohms, low watts will be your friend.
 
On a normal day I vape 0.8 - 0.9 Ohms at around 20w and use one 18650 battery and about 5 - 6ml of juice for the day. On my "cloud" builds I can easily go through 4 18650 batteries and 30ml of juice in an evening.
 
On a normal day I vape 0.8 - 0.9 Ohms at around 20w and use one 18650 battery and about 5 - 6ml of juice for the day. On my "cloud" builds I can easily go through 4 18650 batteries and 30ml of juice in an evening.

5 to 6ml is dead on what I am aiming for.
 
Back
Top