Thanks for the suggestion @kimbo, @Rob Fisher also did a similar suggestion: BLUE instead of GREEN
An Idea, And If, Some Assistance Required.
- Thread starter johan
- Start date
@johan suggestion, what will it take to keep the LED on for say 0.5 seconds after the fire button is de-pressed, some of us vape with the door away from eye sight and you will not see the light unless you press the fire button to look. When you put it down and see your Reo glowing red you know it is time, but if you dont see the red, you have to consciously press the button to see what color is glowing.
I think after a few glasses of OJ you will not think to press the button, just a thought.
I think after a few glasses of OJ you will not think to press the button, just a thought.
I only saw this thread now, but you can count me in as well @johan
I have also many times vaped a battery to death when overindulging so this will be awesome.
3.7 V for me as well
Just one question, will one notice the light when you've overindulged?
Shouldn't one build in a "shocking" mechanism for this purpose?
(Just kidding, your 'light' idea is great)
I have also many times vaped a battery to death when overindulging so this will be awesome.
3.7 V for me as well
Just one question, will one notice the light when you've overindulged?
Shouldn't one build in a "shocking" mechanism for this purpose?
(Just kidding, your 'light' idea is great)
It is remarkable how the juice bottle diffuses a LED light, you will see it in your periphiral vision. The extra 500ms can be done, but its extra components (will see how much extra time can be achieved with a small capacitor when I do proto-typing).
Efest 2500 35amp
Battery change
no load = 3.8v
Battery change
no load = 3.8v
Please do me a favor (requested before without any response): measure the width between side wall and divider (where the bottle normally sits), I will appreciate it and be able to confirm if it will fit or not. Thanks.
Thanks, I really appreciate, the pcb is only 14mm wide max, so it will fit in a Reo mini.
Does it really need an LED to indicate battery fine though ? would a single battery not fine indicator not only be cheaper but also easier and smaller to manufacture. After all that is the only one you are interested in
. It is only necessary to see a light warning that things are not well, we know if we take a toot and the device doesn't work then there is something wrong with it.
Now where's the fun in that? Some may not admit it but I think everyone secretly desires little gadgets that glow and blink
I tried very hard to understand your post, but must admit I am stupid, and you need to elaborate better for me to understand
?It seems, correct me if I am wrong, that you suggest a: 'battery OK only' indicator?
If you feel like it, come over for a beer or .....
Just remind me to take measurement before you leave.
Ohm @johan what I think @CRcranky is saying is that the green light could be unnecessary. The doo-hickey that you are currently making shows a green light if the battery is fine, and a red light if it is not fine. The question asked by Crcranky is "Do we need the green light?" I was thinking the same last night.
What the doo-hickey is supposed to do is warn you about a battery that is very low. My comment earlier: if you fire the Reo and vape, and nothing happens, then you know something is wrong with your setup. There isn't really much that the green light does, other than to tell you the voltage is above a certain threshold.
Take away the green light (hence why I said, swop it for a 'black' LED
). Now we have a red light only. If it is off, then the battery is fine. If the red lights up (Red = dead) then you have a battery below the threshold, no Red means you can carry on vaping and consuming six packs of fruit juice, until the red light does come on.Unless I am wrong, I don't see much benefit from having a green light...
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Ohm @johan what I think @CRcranky is saying is that the green light could be unnecessary. The doo-hickey that you are currently making shows a green light if the battery is fine, and a red light if it is not fine. The question asked by Crcranky is "Do we need the green light?" I was thinking the same last night.
What the doo-hickey is supposed to do is warn you about a battery that is very low. My comment earlier: if you fire the Reo and vape, and nothing happens, then you know something is wrong with your setup. There isn't really much that the green light does, other than to tell you the voltage is above a certain threshold.
Take away the green light (hence why I said, swop it for a 'black' LED
Unless I am wrong, I don't see much benefit from having a green light...
Read the feckin OP! I love red lights when I had too much Oros
.
While I agree that the "battery fine" light could be omitted, there is one caveat to that - you won't be aware if the circuitry fails (for whatever reason) and could, if "oros-ed" enough, vape your battery to death because you are waiting for the red light that never comes
While I agree that the "battery fine" light could be omitted, there is one caveat to that - you won't be aware if the circuitry fails (for whatever reason) and could, if "oros-ed" enough, vape your battery to death because you are waiting for the red light that never comes
I agree, the quality of "oros-ed" enjoyment have to be the solace to such an unfortunate event
. I'm off to such an compulsory event ATM .
An option is to use the RGB LED SMD for 3 possibilities:
> 3.7V == Green
> 3.2V == Blue (& < 3.7V)
< 3.2V == Red
Choose colors and voltage levels as desired.
Though prob cannot use the TPS chip, maybe revert to Zener diode + comparator IC, not sure if SMD form factor exists plus adds more components (and maybe tolerances of components does not allow for such an approach)...?
Voltage range allows for standardized approach, especially if devices will be sold...and takes care off multiple load issues, perhaps?
Taken further, use RGBC SMD,
with white for reverse polarity of battery, tho white needs to be hard coded to battery (bypassing switch).
Current draw (power dissipation) may also be higher with zener+comparator.
Sent from the moon of Jupiter
> 3.7V == Green
> 3.2V == Blue (& < 3.7V)
< 3.2V == Red
Choose colors and voltage levels as desired.
Though prob cannot use the TPS chip, maybe revert to Zener diode + comparator IC, not sure if SMD form factor exists plus adds more components (and maybe tolerances of components does not allow for such an approach)...?
Voltage range allows for standardized approach, especially if devices will be sold...and takes care off multiple load issues, perhaps?
Taken further, use RGBC SMD,
with white for reverse polarity of battery, tho white needs to be hard coded to battery (bypassing switch).
Current draw (power dissipation) may also be higher with zener+comparator.
Sent from the moon of Jupiter
Like your suggestions very much, but I would like to stay away in this instance from micro processors.
i like the idea that when you vape the light is off but i don't like the flashes
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