Anarchist Mod Ammonia and Salt Patina
- Thread starter Necris
- Start date
sooo,dumbass necris has struck again...tried to get the last bit of free heat out of the sun as possible by balancing the fume chamber on a window sill.
i live in PE,this will never do
it was upside down on the paving upon my return.
instead of redoing,i have tried a wrapping method.
i liberated some pine/fir foliage from a tree in my garden,layed that on paper towel and soaked both it ammonia and salt solution.
lay the mod on that,covered in more foliage and wrapped up like an ammonia pancake.
placed that in the bottom of the fume chamber.
will see what we get tomorrow.
FYI:the sosati sticks are a step backwards.have to handle the tube to turn.
will have to find cork somewhere,i'm a beer drinker and no craft shops have corks anymore.
maybe rubber stoppers from a science supply?
But..polyurethane is the way forward so far...the gloss is amazing
i live in PE,this will never do
it was upside down on the paving upon my return.
instead of redoing,i have tried a wrapping method.
i liberated some pine/fir foliage from a tree in my garden,layed that on paper towel and soaked both it ammonia and salt solution.
lay the mod on that,covered in more foliage and wrapped up like an ammonia pancake.
placed that in the bottom of the fume chamber.
will see what we get tomorrow.
FYI:the sosati sticks are a step backwards.have to handle the tube to turn.
will have to find cork somewhere,i'm a beer drinker and no craft shops have corks anymore.
maybe rubber stoppers from a science supply?
But..polyurethane is the way forward so far...the gloss is amazing
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First coat of clear on and drying.
This looks great man, Good caking of the blue. Be careful with that patina. Dont brush just rinse off with ammonia
Thanks bud,Acetone i assume?
ammonia would see me starting again.
I had to brush a bit to get the nail polish out of the engraving hence a blank spot or 3,but i have matched the spottiness across all 3 pieces at least.
Started with clear coat earlier.
On about coat 3 now.will leave it to dry and wet sand as the day progresses.
well. whatever liquid you were using. Be is acetone or ammonia. when I cleaned mine off before drying. I just rinsed it off with ammonia ( I used that) and it pulled the cake down to a smoothness on the surface. Good luck with clear coat.
Which clear are you using? lots of thin coats. Plenty of dry inbetween
Which clear are you using? lots of thin coats. Plenty of dry inbetween
Brave man.Rinsing in ammonia will dissolve the patina further imo,acetone dissolves salts but doesnt touch the patina.
In fact i know of methods where the threads are left bare.clear is applied and ammonia or vinegar is used to clean patina from the threads
hmm. it worked well for me. My process was different you yours I think in terms of drying and time. but my end result was great.
The method i use is basically following the McCoy method.
I have learnt a huge amount from a group called patina mods on facebook,some seriously talented guys on there
https://www.youtube.com/user/theronjclark/videos
I have learnt a huge amount from a group called patina mods on facebook,some seriously talented guys on there
https://www.youtube.com/user/theronjclark/videos
@whatalotigot
Missed your question on the clear.
I have tried rustoleum clear semi gloss and gloss,braemar paints polyurethane enamel clear and a cheapy Pick N Pay can of Spectra Spray Clear lacquer.
The Stingray is being sprayed with the spectra.
Rustoleum: tends to stay soft long after its drying period,some online claim it has a 30 day curing time before hard to the touch.
Spectra:Seems thinner than the Rustoleum,half the price.dries faster and gives a less gummy finish,did notice it chipped when dropped though,where rustoleum just dented)
Much trickier to get to build up to a "glassy layer",mostly seems to almost soak in rather than glob on over the patina.
Polyurethane Enamel:This is the mac daddy of clears a i understand it,I applied with a brush and am now on wet sand number 3.
Also appears to have a long drying time.
baking it in the oven results in a sticky gooey mess(currently sanding out the resulting runs...!@#$%^&)
Missed your question on the clear.
I have tried rustoleum clear semi gloss and gloss,braemar paints polyurethane enamel clear and a cheapy Pick N Pay can of Spectra Spray Clear lacquer.
The Stingray is being sprayed with the spectra.
Rustoleum: tends to stay soft long after its drying period,some online claim it has a 30 day curing time before hard to the touch.
Spectra:Seems thinner than the Rustoleum,half the price.dries faster and gives a less gummy finish,did notice it chipped when dropped though,where rustoleum just dented)
Much trickier to get to build up to a "glassy layer",mostly seems to almost soak in rather than glob on over the patina.
Polyurethane Enamel:This is the mac daddy of clears a i understand it,I applied with a brush and am now on wet sand number 3.
Also appears to have a long drying time.
baking it in the oven results in a sticky gooey mess(currently sanding out the resulting runs...!@#$%^&)
I agree,certainly did come out nicely.hmm. it worked well for me. My process was different you yours I think in terms of drying and time. but my end result was great.
My method is called
" necris's oooh-whatwillhappen-if-i-did-this method".
I have even mixed bleach and ammonia which is a HUGE no no.
What clear did you use as a matter of interest
Aaaand i stuffed it up.
Officially will never use spectra clear again.flaked off like paper this morning carrying the patina along.
No matter.suspect preppinh with 1000 grit also makes for a slippery surface for the patina to form.
Onwards and upwards...lets start again.
Officially will never use spectra clear again.flaked off like paper this morning carrying the patina along.
No matter.suspect preppinh with 1000 grit also makes for a slippery surface for the patina to form.
Onwards and upwards...lets start again.
This method used the amminia salt mix with a cup of white vinegar.
Much finer patina with interesting greens and golds.
On coat 4 of clear at tye moment.
Spray at 7pm and leave overnight spray again at 7am qnd repeat
Much finer patina with interesting greens and golds.
On coat 4 of clear at tye moment.
Spray at 7pm and leave overnight spray again at 7am qnd repeat
Quick polish with mr min for a photo.
Leaving to east london tomorrow so it will have a few days rest before wet sanding starts,tattoo is applied and final coats sprayed
Leaving to east london tomorrow so it will have a few days rest before wet sanding starts,tattoo is applied and final coats sprayed
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This is the anarchist tube in action on a loaner zna 50w.
Not happy with the clear polyurethane but do like the patina.
Not happy with the clear polyurethane but do like the patina.
Love that colour - stunning.Quick polish with mr min for a photo.
Leaving to east london tomorrow so it will have a few days rest before wet sanding starts,tattoo is applied and final coats sprayed
That looks incredible!!!Quick polish with mr min for a photo.
Leaving to east london tomorrow so it will have a few days rest before wet sanding starts,tattoo is applied and final coats sprayed
Thanks guys.i have a number of repeatable patina processes done and dusted.want to get into heated patina's next.
still searching for the right clear coat unfortunately.hoping my more patient approach yields results.they dont cure hard and transportation in a bag or car cup holder ruins the clear.
Lookimg for rustoleum clear engine enamel
Also multi tube mods are painful.doing sections makes for an uneven pattern and clear coat.
Doing it in 18650 mode locks it into 18650 mod.unscrewing the tubes will wreck both patina and clear
Considering getting a reo door from @Oupa and playing with nickel and then copper plating
Unless some fortunate member has a spare brass door anywhere
still searching for the right clear coat unfortunately.hoping my more patient approach yields results.they dont cure hard and transportation in a bag or car cup holder ruins the clear.
Lookimg for rustoleum clear engine enamel
Also multi tube mods are painful.doing sections makes for an uneven pattern and clear coat.
Doing it in 18650 mode locks it into 18650 mod.unscrewing the tubes will wreck both patina and clear
Considering getting a reo door from @Oupa and playing with nickel and then copper plating
Unless some fortunate member has a spare brass door anywhere
Turns out "Tool in a can" is also paint stripper in a can.
How frikken annoying.
Now I have to soak off clear and put it back in the fume chamber to fill that damn spot.another weeks worth of spraying and sanding. Ag.@@##$/
How frikken annoying.
Now I have to soak off clear and put it back in the fume chamber to fill that damn spot.another weeks worth of spraying and sanding. Ag.@@##$/
Fire and ice multi stage patina
Rinsed and ready for second 30 min mustard "flame" fume.
My latest result,2 coats of clear.
Not quite what i was after but i got colours i have never gotten before,so we are learning
Not quite what i was after but i got colours i have never gotten before,so we are learning
this had a bit of a twist to it
the first fume as pictured in the earlier post was a pink salt,ammonia and vinegar mixture.
i diluted the2 teaspoons mustard with a drop or two of vinegar until gel consistency,pourable is bad as it will run off.
i then rinsed again as pictured above and reapplied mustard without vinegar dilution.
rinsed after 45 minutes,applied vaseline in the "flame" areas i didnt want patina.
immediately noticed olives and purples as the vaseline fumed...interesting.
angled the fume chamber to make sure all runoff went towards the bottom flame area and not towards the blue(now green)
and lo and behold...oranges?
I like tha part around the engraving so much i may sand the rest and hit it with a vinegar ammonia for light blue contrast
the first fume as pictured in the earlier post was a pink salt,ammonia and vinegar mixture.
i diluted the2 teaspoons mustard with a drop or two of vinegar until gel consistency,pourable is bad as it will run off.
i then rinsed again as pictured above and reapplied mustard without vinegar dilution.
rinsed after 45 minutes,applied vaseline in the "flame" areas i didnt want patina.
immediately noticed olives and purples as the vaseline fumed...interesting.
angled the fume chamber to make sure all runoff went towards the bottom flame area and not towards the blue(now green)
and lo and behold...oranges?
I like tha part around the engraving so much i may sand the rest and hit it with a vinegar ammonia for light blue contrast
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