Anyone else really unhappy (Kayfun 4 clone)

We have had varied feedback on our Kayfun 4 from Lemaga.

From what I can judge, 7 or 8 out of 10 seem happy with it with the remainder very negative. I have personally disassembled and reassembled 3 of them and built 2 and all seem fine. My issue is that I get the liquid flow control ring locked which is a pita to get loose and some of them had more than one air screw installed, absent minded assembler?

Will you take andro up on his offer and get back to me if that doesn't work?
Thanks everyone for the responses, advice and @andro for the courteous offer. I actually landed up dropping it off with a buddy for a bit (vapeshop techie) and he is going to fiddle. If he fails then will definitely drop you pm andro. @Sprint I dont think this is a vendor problem, or even general manufacturer problem with cleaning etc the device itself seems very much solid and looks great, I may have just gotten a bad apple or left it in the sun too long lol. I have narrowed it down to problems with four parts n14, n8, n17 and n33. 33 helps hold the three sections of the SS and glass tanks together and skips threads when I fully assemble the tank. 14 holds the airflow control screw, in my case was full of metal bits and a screw, a problem which has been solved. 8 and/or 17 must be somehow related to the dryhitting, have a feeling channels will need to be filed out and cleared of machining debris. Will post up solves if he comes up with any.
 
ok so 3 out of the 3 kayfuns i bought had exactly the same issue. Time to pull out the diagram to follow me on this one. So on the Diagram item 18 is an O-ring that has an extremely key function. this O-ring seals the open end of the chimney and keeps juice from flowing over the chimney wall and into the coil section essentially flooding the RTA. according to the Diagram item 18 is a 10mm X 1.5mm O-ring. the device however has a much thinner O-ring. not to worry though the correct one is in the kit. all you need to do is pull the stock O-ring off and replace it with the other O-ring (Will be the same diameter but the rubber will be much thicker) You will Notice that the flow control is much tighter and the outer casing fit is also rather Kayfun tight but this will resolve the flooding issue. Apart from that all 3 Kayfun 4 are fantastic and looks amazing.
 
ok so 3 out of the 3 kayfuns i bought had exactly the same issue. Time to pull out the diagram to follow me on this one. So on the Diagram item 18 is an O-ring that has an extremely key function. this O-ring seals the open end of the chimney and keeps juice from flowing over the chimney wall and into the coil section essentially flooding the RTA. according to the Diagram item 18 is a 10mm X 1.5mm O-ring. the device however has a much thinner O-ring. not to worry though the correct one is in the kit. all you need to do is pull the stock O-ring off and replace it with the other O-ring (Will be the same diameter but the rubber will be much thicker) You will Notice that the flow control is much tighter and the outer casing fit is also rather Kayfun tight but this will resolve the flooding issue. Apart from that all 3 Kayfun 4 are fantastic and looks amazing.
Thanks for that possible solve Arthster, I have given up though. The dry hitting just won't stop and it has now even been suggested that I cause it by demanding way more vapour than the kayfun 4 thinks is fun (at this point). I am waiting for other bits and pieces like the S-kit which are meant to give more airflow and potentially more draw/pressure; who knows maybe they will help. To deal with the incredible sense of loss I felt I did pull the trigger on a billow from vape club which I am sure is going to help blow my bad luck streak away. Yes @Andre as I sat looking at that preorder page a goblin was hopping back and forth from my cart but I remained strong and just a billow it is........ with nano kit and steel tank.

Fine I have problems but the goods hopefully wont!
 
Thanks for that possible solve Arthster, I have given up though. The dry hitting just won't stop and it has now even been suggested that I cause it by demanding way more vapour than the kayfun 4 thinks is fun (at this point). I am waiting for other bits and pieces like the S-kit which are meant to give more airflow and potentially more draw/pressure; who knows maybe they will help. To deal with the incredible sense of loss I felt I did pull the trigger on a billow from vape club which I am sure is going to help blow my bad luck streak away. Yes @Andre as I sat looking at that preorder page a goblin was hopping back and forth from my cart but I remained strong and just a billow it is........ with nano kit and steel tank.

Fine I have problems but the goods hopefully wont!
if you like more airflow why dont you take off the afc screw totally and try without ......just a thought
 
if you like more airflow why dont you take off the afc screw totally and try without ......just a thought
it diesnt matter if you take the screw out the airflow mechanism is governed by four holes drilled into a pipe that the screw closes off or opens. T
 
i plan to address the tight airflow problem and the dry hit problem but it will need to wait until i get over a sickness and get back to work in from of a proper computer on Monday.
 
it diesnt matter if you take the screw out the airflow mechanism is governed by four holes drilled into a pipe that the screw closes off or opens. T
actually it does change if you take it off completely . not only unscrew it to the max because that will interfere with juice control but all out is way more open .
 
Airflow screw has been out for a while, was the third or so thing I tried. No difference, also airflow on the clone when fully open with, or without the screw in there is very similar. Lol its all good Im over it, will revisit it when someone needs spares.
 
actually it does change if you take it off completely . not only unscrew it to the max because that will interfere with juice control but all out is way more open .
good point your are right
 
Too open air flow will also cause dry hits. Kayfuns depend on vacuum to wick. Remember they way the tank works is to have vacuum on the one side to keep the juice from running out the bottom. If you have to little vacuum on the one side then there is no reason for the tank to give up some juice.
 
Sadly my Kayfun 4 too sits in a pile of spares in the corner. When it worked, it was magic, but that was few and far between. Kind of like the Alfa's of the Vape World. Almost all the threads stripped on mine. Very unhappy with it!!!
 
i cracked the code of the kayfun clone. Quite simple really i removed the airflow control screw courtesy of @andro advice. I also drilled out the juice wick holes on the buikd post a tiny bit and niw it is throwing clouds like my orchid. I can get it to 35 watts beforebthe wicking cannot keep up. It seems especially efficient at nicotine delivery as well as i get a partial @Silver a lit quicker than my bug bripper or orchid. It think it is because even at high watts the juice is just so much cooler. I can see this is going to be one of my firm favourites. I would not recommend fiir a person wanting tog to vape straight out of the box but if you dont mind a but of diy then you are in for a treat.
 
please excuse the typos i cannot edit text on my little phone screen
 
Drilled the 4 holes on mine to 1.5 and took out the air screw. Massive flavor and allot more cloud and even at 15W no dry hits yet. also got bubbles allot quicker when I opened the juice control. but I think that is just in my mind.
 
Just thought i would post this that people in the US are complaining about the authentic KF4 also and basically its the same issue with regards to threading and air control not working properly!
 
I am actually going to put the airflow screw back and see if I still silver like that. I silvered in the car on the way to work this morning :D

Just thought i would post this that people in the US are complaining about the authentic KF4 also and basically its the same issue with regards to threading and air control not working properly!

That was my experience with the 3.1 I really don't think the clones are bad. I think people expect more from the real thing because it's the real thing.
 
I really would argue that some of the clones and probably authentics really are duds. Mine for example has issues everywhere from o-rings to threading on the counternut that holds the tank segments together. Could only ever really build with the polycarb tank as a result, and when I did then all the other issues became apparent, airflow jammed with metal bits, constant dry hitting, some juice channels clogged with metal. Even after cleaning and removing machining debris still no joy from it. Furher even if there was joy at this point only one tank option, polycarb which limits my juice options drastically. This isnt exactly what the product is meant to do, clone or not.

I personally am not an idiot, nor are the second or third person who tried and failed to get the thing to work properly. We are all very much rebuildable capable (it truly is not rocket science and one of them is a nuclear physicist). The most that has been managed is to make it vapeable if you take 2 or 3 hard pulls between each actual drag to get enough juice to the wicks but even then it dry hits with flow control completely open. We really aren't talking juice hungry coils either like 1,2 ohm 32g parallels, they probably only need the juice supply a twisp clearo gives.

But now I risk just starting to rant. Thanks for all the ideas and advice on solutions though. One day I may get another clone, I have spares for it and maybe half of mine and half of the next one will make a tank that works. Pleased that some peoples have worked out great for them, feel kind of bad to say it but also pleased I am not alone in wanting to take it and sell it for scrap.
 
I think we all knew it would be a different ball game with so many parts in the build. I'm just glad I got one that was made on Monday :)
 
I really would argue that some of the clones and probably authentics really are duds. Mine for example has issues everywhere from o-rings to threading on the counternut that holds the tank segments together. Could only ever really build with the polycarb tank as a result, and when I did then all the other issues became apparent, airflow jammed with metal bits, constant dry hitting, some juice channels clogged with metal. Even after cleaning and removing machining debris still no joy from it. Furher even if there was joy at this point only one tank option, polycarb which limits my juice options drastically. This isnt exactly what the product is meant to do, clone or not.

I personally am not an idiot, nor are the second or third person who tried and failed to get the thing to work properly. We are all very much rebuildable capable (it truly is not rocket science and one of them is a nuclear physicist). The most that has been managed is to make it vapeable if you take 2 or 3 hard pulls between each actual drag to get enough juice to the wicks but even then it dry hits with flow control completely open. We really aren't talking juice hungry coils either like 1,2 ohm 32g parallels, they probably only need the juice supply a twisp clearo gives.

But now I risk just starting to rant. Thanks for all the ideas and advice on solutions though. One day I may get another clone, I have spares for it and maybe half of mine and half of the next one will make a tank that works. Pleased that some peoples have worked out great for them, feel kind of bad to say it but also pleased I am not alone in wanting to take it and sell it for scrap.

Really sorry we couldnt get yours up and running and I know its a really bad feeling when you spend money on a dud.
 
Just a quick update. I added the air screw back on mine and I am now standing back with my previouse comment that a kayfun needs vacuum to wick. I used mine as an ADV yesterday and noticed that even with the bigger juice holes it still needed a little help. I added the screw back last night and have been vaping on my SMOK pipe and its been really awesome. It also looks like the KF4 is at its best between 9 and 12 Watts
 
@Arthster maybe you need to make the holes bigger. Also the outer chimney ring with six holes, I opened them up a little as well. My kayfun is good for max 25w on 9 wrap 3mm dia 28awg
 
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