Yep, people are so used to the old Ni-Cd batteries that you had to drain completely and then charge overnight that they think the same holds true for these batteries, whereas in fact they will last longer if you don't charge them fully and also not let them drain fully
Attention All Mech Mod Users
- Thread starter Riaz
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Yep, people are so used to the old Ni-Cd batteries that you had to drain completely and then charge overnight that they think the same holds true for these batteries, whereas in fact they will last longer if you don't charge them fully and also not let them drain fully
Magnets replace the springs in your switch giving it a very smooth throw.
Nah, I check the voltage with a tank-o-meter and then change the batteries once the one being used hits 3.7v (they usually come off the charger at 4.1v) Charge using a Nitecore i4.
Where would one use a button vs a flat top bettery. I have a Zmax mini and needvto buy more batteties...but it looks like both would work
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Sent from my GT-I9295 using Tapatalk
Yes, both should work. The Reos at the moment prefer button tops - think that is where @Zegee's comment comes from.
That would rely entirely on the mech/mod in question. As @Matthee notes concerning Reos which prefer button-tops in their current configuration... This could also affect other minor things, as a button top with a slightly longer battery will result in a switch with a slightly longer throw in a Nemesis etc... In general though, both should work, unless stated otherwise.
I just found some flat tops don't work in all my chargers. My ultrafire for instance does not make connection on the + side.
I need to do some weird hqck with staples. Break of about 4 or 5 stables. Bend the legs in. The stick that between the battery, and charger untill it makes connection.
I need to do some weird hqck with staples. Break of about 4 or 5 stables. Bend the legs in. The stick that between the battery, and charger untill it makes connection.
mcGuyver style
I buy no chargers or batteries with "fire" in the name. From all accounts they are of inferior quality.
Yip. This charger came from pre ecig days. Came with a powerful flashlight and 2 panasonic batteries.
One channel died a few weeks after i got it. Now using it at work in case of emergency.
Yup. Same goes for batteries.
SO which one of these should i buy??
http://vapemob.co.za/product/imr-3-7v-batteries/
http://vapemob.co.za/product/firetrust-18350-li-ion-3-7v-1200mah/
Or where else would i be able to get 18350 batteries in SA?
@Oupa from Vapour Mountain has the Samsung 18650 so he may have the 18350 as well. Pop him a PM, I am sure he wont mind.
@Cape vaping supplies might have some AW 18350's.
Both o
The Trustfire is ICR with higher capacity, and the blue one is a generic IMR with lower capacity. Personally, I wouldn't buy any of those for my mods, I'm erring on the side of caution with batteries, and only use brand named IMR batteries (like AW, Panasonic, Sony, Efest) for regulated and mech mods.
what about MNKE ?
So where do i get some locally? asked CVS and VM..waiting for a reply...anywhere else
MNKE is a great brand, but their mah are very low, I prefer high A and high mah
I agree with @SunRam above, but would add MNKE to his list of "safe" brands.
Very difficult to get locally. VapeMob used to stock them, but probably got too expensive. If CVS does not have stock, ask him to import some.
And you've hit the same ceiling with local e-tailers as the rest of us. The local selection is barely there and importing is risky given the amount of fake batteries floating around.
I really (read: R E A L L Y) wish our local suppliers would pick up more trusted brand name and mech safe batteries.
so the mah is how 'long' the battery will last you?
not really important, its to replace the spring in the switch , smother more responsive switch
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