Let it dangle low like an oil lamp lolGuys, am I missing something here?
How do you saturate the wick?
Do you have to give the avo a turn sideways every so often?
This is bothering me
Avocado dripper dry hits
- Thread starter kana01
- Start date
Uneven density in your wicks. Cut them from the same roll and thread them in from the side the cut was made to ensure even wicking. OR a slightly loose grub screw resulting in one coil going near nuclear hot.
I also had dry hits with my Kanger Sub Tank on 30W 3mm 28G Kanthal.
Here is a tip, go down to 2.5mm coil. Runs perfect at 55W.
Here is a tip, go down to 2.5mm coil. Runs perfect at 55W.
Nickel dual coils are literally one of the most difficult TC builds out there, so don't know if you've had experience with Ni in other RBA's or if it really is the tank which is giving issues?
Anyway, with Ni, when the TC starts to kick out and into crazy resistances, it usually means one of the following:
a) Connection issue between the post and the coil. Usually, one of the screws untightened just a little bit, or one of the screws snapped the wire
b) Hot spots. This especially happens with compressed (micro) Ni coils, and will create sudden fluctuations in the resistance.
c) Oxidation on one of the coils. Ni tends to gunk/oxidize easier than almost all other wire. Usually, its not the end of the world initially, but in the case of a dual Ni coil, it means the tempo through which your resistance increases with regards to temperature becomes much slower/faster for one coil than for the other, which will destroy TC on nickel
Finally, especially with Ni, your coils have to be absolutely identical. With other TC wire types you've got a little bit of play, but with Ni it can mess up your TFR curve. Usually results in the temperature being off by anything from 20 to 120 ºC. Which means that, what you and your mod think is 230 ºC, is in reality maybe either 130 ºC or 330 ºC. What's worse is the fact that it might climb temperature slowly when well-wicked, but when you start to run dry it will hit the imagined temp of 230 ºC and keep it there, when it might actually be at 330 ºC and burn the living Hitler out of your coils.
With single coil Ni, most of these issues becomes much, much less severe. Ni (and again, especially dual coils with lower resistances) are also more susceptible to cold and room temperature settings. But if you get it right, its very rewarding.
Btw, many mods have an "Ohm lock range", where, even if your resistance is locked, if it picks up a new resistance which is very far off from the previous one (as in by 40 to 100%) it will automatically update to a new cold resistance, as a safety measure.
To be honest even my turbo v2 on dual coil nickle gave issues. Vaped fine for a good few hours then troubles started. I suppose i should just try dual coil on kanthal or get a clapton built again. For now ive given up on tc and staying with kanthal. Focusing more on getting the wicking right. Also i use the rx200 so ye i know about the ohm locking but even on tc it didnt work well and something always went wrong
but even on tc it didnt work well and something always went wrongGuys, am I missing something here?
How do you saturate the wick?
Do you have to give the avo a turn sideways every so often?
This is bothering me
Lol the wick sucks it up and thus stays wet. Good to tilt every now and then to have tips wet
My first wick I did not trim the legs in half. Result was the wick legs did not reach the bottom of the tank, which required tilting when the juice level went down. Next wicking I cut the legs, which made it much easier to get the legs into the tank and to the bottom of the tank - no tilting required.Guys, am I missing something here?
How do you saturate the wick?
Do you have to give the avo a turn sideways every so often?
This is bothering me
I still tilt mine, wicks reach about half way, so far the clapton has had no problems
Good to be back. Tired of airports and planes and under the blanket vaping. Some 2 000 posts to catch up on.Welcome back @Andre! We missed you!
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