Billet Box Mod (BB)

Well the first test with the original cCells with the red O-Rings and Beehive type juice holes was a massive fail and got a dry hit from hell! Those cCells were the Devils work!

Then I scratched around for my trusty cCells with the Black O-Rings and round juice holes and redid everything... Phew that was much better... actually it's pretty damn great! Awesome that I now have a BB Bridge that can handle commercial coils as a backup! Boom! :h:
CCellBlack 001.JPG
 
After all these years of getting your authentic Billet Box in a bubble wrap sleeve you will now get them in a decent package that actually protects the BB on it's travels! Boom!
BBBox.jpg BBBox1.jpg
 
Thanks for that @Rob Fisher
At the price I think a nice box is way more suitable than just bubble wrap
Congrats to the BB guys
 
Just a heads up if anyone wants anymore Dampless Plugs.. I will be getting some stuff from Italy.
 
Here is a fun B.B. snag for the gurus. In my constant attempt to nail down the Ti Flow’s habit of leaking on refill. It seems liquid got into my board. So in good old DIY fashion, I pull it apart and clean it all up with some contact cleaner and get it all back together. But, the problem still persists.

Ok the snag is, it will fire perfect for around 6 or so presses of the button then all of a sudden the wattage races up to max.

Any B.B. gurufu you all have that could help?
 
@RayDeny, a friend of mine had an issue with his SXK BB where the wattage would just run up (constantly).
The first time this happened the internals were flooded with juice. After cleaning it out it was fine for a bit.
The second time it happened the device was bone dry inside.
It looked to me like a contact/shorting issue on the wattage control board. There were 3 wires on this board. 2 wires next to each other at the bottom of the board and 1 wire in between these 2 at the top. It looks like the top wire was touching the contact of one of the bottom wires. I simply taped a piece of insulation tape over the 2 bottom wires and let the top wire run over that.
This seems to have sold the problem (he got his mod back today).

I know this does not exactly describe your scenario but I'm just throwing something out there that might have a chance of helping you :)
 
Here is a fun B.B. snag for the gurus. In my constant attempt to nail down the Ti Flow’s habit of leaking on refill. It seems liquid got into my board. So in good old DIY fashion, I pull it apart and clean it all up with some contact cleaner and get it all back together. But, the problem still persists.

Ok the snag is, it will fire perfect for around 6 or so presses of the button then all of a sudden the wattage races up to max.

Any B.B. gurufu you all have that could help?
Does your bb board have the up and down buttons on the board or is that component missing?

If it's the older board with the up down button still on the physical board then it's a bad solder join on the board.
Send pics.
Might be juice on the up down external board but I doubt that.

Clean the main board with some rubbing alcohol as well as the up down board.
 
Thanks guys for the info. @Christos , the buttons are a separate board, will pull it all apart and give another good clean, @TheV im hoping it’s not a short but can’t say I looked for one, will have another look and confirm.
 
Thanks guys for the info. @Christos , the buttons are a separate board, will pull it all apart and give another good clean, @TheV im hoping it’s not a short but can’t say I looked for one, will have another look and confirm.
The old DNA looked like this:
You can see additional down up buttons on the board.
images (17).jpeg
The new DNA 60 looks not so similar to this but the main thing is the up down buttons on the board are missing and all you see is the words up and down.
images (18).jpeg

There is a separate up down board on a billet box but the physical buttons on the board are the ones causing the issues 9/10 times.
 
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