do you have an original non-lp non-sl to weigh it against, or was that a typo? I'd expect the SL to weigh less
Sorry to badger you, but you are the only one I know with genuine and Dolly
Clone squonker
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do you have an original non-lp non-sl to weigh it against, or was that a typo? I'd expect the SL to weigh less
Sorry to badger you, but you are the only one I know with genuine and Dolly
do you have an original non-lp non-sl to weigh it against, or was that a typo? I'd expect the SL to weigh less
Im almost certain Rob doesnt have a standard profile Reo
I have two but dont have a good digital scale. I think i need one though
Agree Rob, the quality is pretty good.I'm glad that an honest to goodness Reonaut is about to give it the once over as I've never been in the same room w/ an authentic. I've a million and one questions to bug you with so keep that bottle of wine handy
not at $23 extra just for shipping (e.g. to me in UK) he wont I'm afraid. A complete Dolly is roughly that price now. Rob (this one on this forum) is kinda right to wonder how it can be made and shipped for the price china is asking. Use a fuse instead of a spring and spend your $23++++, that you saved to buy another Dolly, live with any further voltage losses (real or imaginary). Use noalox as per the original to ensure the contacts dont crud up.
I too wish it wasnt this way, but it is.
I too wish it wasnt this way, but it is.
Its economies of scale and labour is cheap in china. Rob runs how many mills? A factory in china will run a few at a time and use a cheaper grade Alu. Rob spends time on his creations, China just bangs them out as fast as possible. The design was done and they probably have machines waiting for work so no design, no startup and no machine cost layout to consider.
do you have an original non-lp non-sl to weigh it against, or was that a typo? I'd expect the SL to weigh less
Nope I don't have any of the standards anymore... but the weight difference is negligible...
Happy to answer any and all questions Kev... well at least for the next 6 sleeps... after that I'm USA bound.
@annemarievdh,at $29.00 +free s+h I say go for it. Another tenner for a pretty good Chalice clone,gotta admit I've had fun w/ the intro to squawking and if nothing else it's a great vehicle to try different flavors,lends it self well to that.
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@phanatik,I feel for ya' I'm very fortunate to have hit on my ry4 menthol DIY as my beloved ADV.
@Rob Fisher, here goes Rob, I've gleaned some from others on the thread (it's been slow going as I'm recovering from eye surgery. I look and feel like the loser in a 15 rounder w/ Gerry Clooney) It's been odd. When it first arrived it stunk. After a rebuild w/ a.9ohm coil it was better but inconsistent I put it down and kind of wrote I off. I tried again and re wicked and played w/coil position w/ varying results, then miraculously it started performing much more consistently why?I don't know, but I'll take it.From the first I noticed as you and others did that the weak point on this clone is in the contacts, button ,spring etc.How's it compare w/ voltage drop? Over all I'd say if the performance keeps up I'd keep it and maybe ask Santa for an authentic at Xmas.(p.s. the Chalice ain't too bad.)Happy to answer any and all questions Kev... well at least for the next 6 sleeps... after that I'm USA bound.
Mmmm .. something to strap a SX350J onto?
Asking Santa for an authentic is a good move.... I can understand about finding the happy spot and it did take me a few goes to find the build that worked for me and still does all this time still... the atty of course makes a huge difference as does the coil build and position as well as the wicking material. I have tried many attys and for me it's the Cyclone all the way with the RM2 as a back up. I have tried the Chalice (authentic and clone) and I just cannot get it to work for me. Other atties that I enjoy are the Divo and Hornet which are very similar to the Cyclone.
Personally if I was going to go to all that trouble and cost I would rather choose a second hand REO.
Jip its not a bad price. Im just scared to order from somewere if never orderd.
I do have a Reo mini, and love the vape on it. Its just not working at the moment and @shaunnadan is doctoring it For me.
But want another Reo, the price os just a bit to high for my abilities.
As I understand it my atty choices are limited w/ this style "Reo" and the chalice is a tough nut,I keep the tip section loose to get more air as it's stingy in that regard.
Do yourself a big favour and try and get a Cyclone, Divo or Hornet. All fit the 14mm drip cup and all are fantastic for flavour. If the air holes in these are a little too tight then open the hole a little with a dremel... easy to do.
@annemarievdh,totally get the out of work thing, but you don't have to worry about ordering from fast tech or 3f vape and such though they can be a little slow sometimes
Mine eventually arrived today. Having never owned a reo I don't think the quality is bad for just over R300.00(will a little more at today's rate). Have a chalice 3 clone to go with it. Will try everything out tonight, very intrigued to see what this squonking is all about.
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Great stuff. Let us know. Shout if you have any questions.
Hey guys just a question.
Why do reos need special sub ohm springs and and stuff. Just wondering?
Why do reos need special sub ohm springs and and stuff. Just wondering?
When I got my first Reo it had a silver coloured positive contacts (not sure what material) and delrin firing buttons. At low resistance (below 0.5 ohms) the positive contact became very hot and melted the delrin button and sometimes led to the hot spring sagging. Voltage drop was but average with that setup.Hey guys just a question.
Why do reos need special sub ohm springs and and stuff. Just wondering?
When low ohms became more popular, the modmaster replaced the contacts with gold plated ones and the firing button with PEEK.
A hot spring has always been a feature of the Reo - just a safety measure - only now it is also gold plated for better conductivity. In case of a short the spring will drop, breaking the circuit.
The tip of the positive contact was also changed to better accommodate flat top batteries.
So stuck a quick 24g 6wrap 2.5 I/D kanthal coil in, should be around 0.6ohm. Firstly the chalice is a pain to build on with those posts with castle type nuts, almost stripped one and the build space is tiny. Wicking is a bit of a pain cause the coil sits off centre so do you feed some wicking underneath? Also airflow is fairly tight even wide open, this is compared to a Lemo 1(which is tight to start with) and an Atlantis.
This is my first mech so guess I have been spoilt with the flexibility of VW mods. The vape is ok, tastes like it is on the verge of a dry hit even after around 5 squonks.
One thing I am happy about is that I didn't buy authentics to start this journey off and that clones were available, otherwise I might have been very bleak dropping close to R3k and getting a very mediocre vape.
Not blaming the equipment though, chances are it is my setup and I will need to spend more time playing with the wicking. I am glad these clones are available so people can start their squonking journey.
Any advice would be appreciated!
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This is my first mech so guess I have been spoilt with the flexibility of VW mods. The vape is ok, tastes like it is on the verge of a dry hit even after around 5 squonks.
One thing I am happy about is that I didn't buy authentics to start this journey off and that clones were available, otherwise I might have been very bleak dropping close to R3k and getting a very mediocre vape.
Not blaming the equipment though, chances are it is my setup and I will need to spend more time playing with the wicking. I am glad these clones are available so people can start their squonking journey.
Any advice would be appreciated!
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