Coming Soon - A new BF Mod - Terminator Box Mod
- Thread starter Gizmo
- Start date
I picked mine up on saturday. And I must admit that the Atty is not as good as my other ones but I must say that its not terrible. I mean I build it and it works just fine. The device itself, well I am very impressed by this little thing. With an atty, battery and full bottle of juice it still feels lighter in the hand than a KUI with nothing in it. I have also noticed that it hits harder than the KUI[You might have noticed I don't own a reo] It also handles low own builds [0.2] very well. Doesn't heat up to much. Oh and before I forget the lock button works like a dream!
With saying all that there is just one thing. The 510 is not adjustable. Now for me all my atties sit 98% flush which doesnt bother me but I imagine there will be that one that has a gap. Some people complain about the bottle but I like it, its soft but not too much that your finger goes through the other end. It is made of plastic yes but it feels very strong in the hand. Not reo-made-from-a-vw-beetle-indestructible but its solid.
Then my biggest win with this device is.....NO RATTLE! I missed being able to put a device into my pocket and walking around work without sounding like a Christmas tree. So overall I am very happy with this purchase. I am not saying its a REO but for those of us who can't afford the almighty its a very good buy.
[EDIT] The battery negative is quite a strong willed little being. You need to pull it out slightly to make sure your pushing the pin straight down otherwise it will not go down. But they have made it so its able to slightly backwards and forwards effortlessly.
With saying all that there is just one thing. The 510 is not adjustable. Now for me all my atties sit 98% flush which doesnt bother me but I imagine there will be that one that has a gap. Some people complain about the bottle but I like it, its soft but not too much that your finger goes through the other end. It is made of plastic yes but it feels very strong in the hand. Not reo-made-from-a-vw-beetle-indestructible but its solid.
Then my biggest win with this device is.....NO RATTLE! I missed being able to put a device into my pocket and walking around work without sounding like a Christmas tree. So overall I am very happy with this purchase. I am not saying its a REO but for those of us who can't afford the almighty its a very good buy.
[EDIT] The battery negative is quite a strong willed little being. You need to pull it out slightly to make sure your pushing the pin straight down otherwise it will not go down. But they have made it so its able to slightly backwards and forwards effortlessly.
I am! I have the KUI which I wont lie with all its faults and tinkering and all the rest got me into drinking juice. I use that term because since I started with the BF devices I cant actually afford to buy juice anymore because I fly through it so quickly! I average 10ml a day now. But this smokeless owl just works so well. Doesnt leak from unknown places, hits hard and overall I so like it!
Nicely done bud!
As you know I do own a reo...
Picked my smokeless owl up on Friday from the local rep. Stripped the KUI of its battery and filled the bottle in the car already.
The bottle is soft, very soft but larger than a reo bottle. A reo bottle has some tension to it, I feared flooding with this one. I used it Friday evening as is, and as @6ghost9 said, no leaks!
I did attempt to change the bottle for a reo bottle though. With some forceful cohesion I managed as the tube is notably thicker. Even though the bottle is thinner, there is no rattle. It also seems that the tube cannot be removed!
There was one concern though from my side on the overall build:
Negative spring is very strong. Because of this the battery sits right up against the top plate.
The firing pin is attached to the button.
My concern is that if you press too hard on the button, without there being any play on the battery via negative spring, you will start to dent and damage your battery.
So don't let button mashers use your mod!
Also picked up mine last week and so far it`s been quite interesting for me as I`ve never used a bottom fed mod before. I do not have technical details but I have a brief user experience. The mod was easy to dismantle and reassemble. I wanted to give all the necessary parts a good wash and remembered @Xhale, in his post mentioned that you had to remove the 510 centre pin in order to remove the feed tube hence the need to dismantle. Overall, in the brief time I`ve had the mod it has been a relatively good vape. *I get good flavour and cloud density from the standard atomiser coiled with 30 gauge Kanthal 2mm ID at approximately 0.8 ohm`s on a spaced(ugly) dual coil set up with organic Jap cotton. The glass on the atomiser feels quite fragile, alot thinner than the glass on most incandescent light bulbs. If you bump it around it might crack easily.
It`s easy to coil with the T type positive/centre post (my other rebuildable is a PITA Aqua V1 clone that I wouldn't swop for anything). The juice enters the atomiser via the positive post where your coil leads are fastened, so the juice does not drain back into the bottle if you flood the atomiser. Having said that I haven`t flooded the atty to the point where its leaked out of the air holes except for the first day when I put it on its side
. I want to get my hands on another BF atty (maybe RM 2) to compare as the stock one has a large bore drip tip and I prefer the 510 type drip tip, just because I prefer MTL draws.Getting the battery out could be easier but it`s not a big deal. I put a piece of masking tape around the battery with a little tag end sticking out so that I can remove the battery without having to use a screwdriver/tool to lever the battery out. Since I am new to bottom feeding (no I`m not a barble/cat fish) I don't really know what to specifically look out for, but in the last four days of use, its been easy as re-fill the bottle, insert battery, squonk, depress button (unlock first) and vape. The fire button does have a safety lock feature. I have yet to find juice in places that it`s not supposed to be as well. I do not carry this mod with me and have used it exclusively at home since I`ve got it.
I did notice that the amount/density of vapour dropped as the battery voltage reached 3.7 volts at which time the battery was promptly replaced. I have not had a dry hit as yet (touches wood), I probably over compensate by squonking more frequently as a noob.
So if you are curious about BF mods this would be a great way to get into it. If you are starting out and you do not own 18650 batteries and a charger, like I did at the time, this adds on to the cost quite substantially. Although in my defence I had made up my mind to get a REO about a week or two ago so I would have to get the batteries and a charger anyhow
. I call this a prelude to my REO and if this is vaping experience is anything to go by then it`s going to be happy days.Please excuse the long winded post.
*Edit* I`ve tried the RM2 on the Terminator and what a huge difference in flavor and vapour production. The RM2 definitely makes the standard atty seem crap.
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@6ghost9
If by adjustable you mean raising and lowering the centre pin with a screwdriver or some other sort of tool then yes it is adjustable although I haven't adjusted it as yet. The stock atty sits almost flush with the mod. If you look carefully there a hairs width gap between the atty and the mod.
Maybe I willll try and adjust it when I get home this evening.
If by adjustable you mean raising and lowering the centre pin with a screwdriver or some other sort of tool then yes it is adjustable although I haven't adjusted it as yet. The stock atty sits almost flush with the mod. If you look carefully there a hairs width gap between the atty and the mod.
Maybe I willll try and adjust it when I get home this evening.
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Having used this mod for the past two weeks, I started noticing that the mod doesn't fire as easily and it's getting worse. The button is a bit niggly and you have to press it a certain way (on the edge of the button) to fire and you press the firing button about 3 times before getting a hit. Tried checking what the issue might be, but cant seem to find anything fault. Changed batteries (thought the top might not be flush) but same issue.
@Gizmo - do you perhaps know if there's any sort of after-sales support from the manufacturer? It's cheap yes, but it should at least work hassle free for a couple of months to make it worth-it.
@Gizmo - do you perhaps know if there's any sort of after-sales support from the manufacturer? It's cheap yes, but it should at least work hassle free for a couple of months to make it worth-it.
Check your battery terminal for signs of black carbon buildup, (tiny black marks) as well as the positive firing contact. Then manually remove with sandpaper and get yourself some dielectric grease, which you then apply as a thin layer to all contact points.
"Dielectric greases improve insulation and preserve electrical connections. They do this by sealing contaminants, moisture, and air out of connections. They also seal insulators, keeping moisture and contaminants out of insulation. They are as effective at preserving connections as "conductive" grease, and will not harm insulation."
Thanks Alex. Have tried sanding it clean and applied noalox. Think it might have to do with the firing pin angle or something. Will have to tinker with it a bit. So in the meantime, i'm rocking the Reo again as the daily workhorse. Just have to be careful to avoid scratches etc. I'm OCD that way lol
I`ve stripped mine and took some pics. It might help you diagnose the problem.
View from the top.
Fire Button
the problem is a simple one.
The Panzer mech mod has a similar problem.
The side of the switch pin is contacting the outer metal ring, whereas the switch pin has a nice big landing area which is meant to contact the outer metal ring.
The pin can only go so far down before it touches the top of the battery...so the landing area never really touches the bit metal ring..which means all your power goes through the side of the pin, arcs and gets messy, and pretty soon you are moving the switch about, spinning the battery and whatnot...futile.
I believe the designer of the mod knew of this, but whomever specced the bottom spring decided gung-ho was better than softly softly.
Here's a video:
in this video I have replaced the owl bottom contact with one from a kui. Much more compressible. You can see as I push down on the switch that the battery now moved around half mm downwards. It stops moving as the switch bottoms out on the contact area.
This is a "fix". Totally.
If you are really brave, you can remove the bottom contact, disassemble it and replace it the orignal spring with half a spring from a ballpoint pen. The assembly is a press fit, and good luck getting it apart.
here's a video
again, you can see the battery movement..the pin pushes the battery down a bit until the outer edge of the pin can touch the metal ring.
Without taking the thing to pieces and replacing springs, you can test this for yourself. Take one or two punch hole ring strengthener circular sticker things and stick it to the top of your battery. This will lower the battery contact point *in relation to* the switch itself, which means the switch can travel further, and hopefully touch the bottoming point, giving you a 100% contact.
Also, if you look where the red wire is soldered to the ring, there may be a solder bump getting in the way, removing it is simple and recommended.
There, its an easy thing to sort out.
Now lets go crazy. Low ohms ahoy! (and obviously not required as standard). This is effectively a stg3 mod, bigger turbos, larger intercoolers.
not my neatest work as I made this on the fly freehanding (I was possibly drunk too). A copper plate has been introduced to replace the red wire, so we can go low ohms. The plate is soldered both ends, rendering the switch locking function useless. For bonus point we have replaced the black wire with thicker black wire. If you do this, then you dont have to worry about the bottom contact or anything, as we have changed how the switch works and where our critical contact points are.
The things I do are not because I am sad, its because I love tinkering and improving. I also drive a sleeper. This item was priced very very keenly and with a few simple tweaks can stand up against pretty much anything in performance terms.
your second to last image above, that shows just the switch pin, you should be able to see residue on the sides of the pin from arcing. The pin has a larger contact surface at the top. THAT is the part that was originally designed to touch the metal ring.
If you only even have one battery that you use, you could also shorten the pin a bit, but this sort of ruins the mod for the next person, or when you change to a different battery.
The Panzer mech mod has a similar problem.
The side of the switch pin is contacting the outer metal ring, whereas the switch pin has a nice big landing area which is meant to contact the outer metal ring.
The pin can only go so far down before it touches the top of the battery...so the landing area never really touches the bit metal ring..which means all your power goes through the side of the pin, arcs and gets messy, and pretty soon you are moving the switch about, spinning the battery and whatnot...futile.
I believe the designer of the mod knew of this, but whomever specced the bottom spring decided gung-ho was better than softly softly.
Here's a video:
in this video I have replaced the owl bottom contact with one from a kui. Much more compressible. You can see as I push down on the switch that the battery now moved around half mm downwards. It stops moving as the switch bottoms out on the contact area.
This is a "fix". Totally.
If you are really brave, you can remove the bottom contact, disassemble it and replace it the orignal spring with half a spring from a ballpoint pen. The assembly is a press fit, and good luck getting it apart.
here's a video
again, you can see the battery movement..the pin pushes the battery down a bit until the outer edge of the pin can touch the metal ring.
Without taking the thing to pieces and replacing springs, you can test this for yourself. Take one or two punch hole ring strengthener circular sticker things and stick it to the top of your battery. This will lower the battery contact point *in relation to* the switch itself, which means the switch can travel further, and hopefully touch the bottoming point, giving you a 100% contact.
Also, if you look where the red wire is soldered to the ring, there may be a solder bump getting in the way, removing it is simple and recommended.
There, its an easy thing to sort out.
Now lets go crazy. Low ohms ahoy! (and obviously not required as standard). This is effectively a stg3 mod, bigger turbos, larger intercoolers.
not my neatest work as I made this on the fly freehanding (I was possibly drunk too). A copper plate has been introduced to replace the red wire, so we can go low ohms. The plate is soldered both ends, rendering the switch locking function useless. For bonus point we have replaced the black wire with thicker black wire. If you do this, then you dont have to worry about the bottom contact or anything, as we have changed how the switch works and where our critical contact points are.
The things I do are not because I am sad, its because I love tinkering and improving. I also drive a sleeper. This item was priced very very keenly and with a few simple tweaks can stand up against pretty much anything in performance terms.
your second to last image above, that shows just the switch pin, you should be able to see residue on the sides of the pin from arcing. The pin has a larger contact surface at the top. THAT is the part that was originally designed to touch the metal ring.
If you only even have one battery that you use, you could also shorten the pin a bit, but this sort of ruins the mod for the next person, or when you change to a different battery.
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while we are on the topic, if you do decide to put a softer spring in, you may well next say "eeek xhale, why u not tell me my battery will rattle? sies man!"
your battery will rattle.
any small flattish rare earth magnet can be glued to the inside of the battery bay, about three quarters of the way to the top, and this will hold the battery in place securely.
also, how do you guys feel about stainless stell ball bearings in your eliquid? forsee any long term problems?
your battery will rattle.
any small flattish rare earth magnet can be glued to the inside of the battery bay, about three quarters of the way to the top, and this will hold the battery in place securely.
also, how do you guys feel about stainless stell ball bearings in your eliquid? forsee any long term problems?
Thanks guys @Blu_Marlin & @Xhale ! Great to find all the help you need from fellow vapers on this forum. Going to take it apart tomorrow and see what I can do. Dont have a KUI to strip for parts though, so will see whats what.
how many of you guys ran into the button issue?
i've been reading posts on the whole squonking/bottom feed thing, and would really like to try it.
i've been reading posts on the whole squonking/bottom feed thing, and would really like to try it.
No button issues or leaking issues as yet. I did change the atomiser as the standard one was crap.
I have the button issue, but am living with it since this is a throw away for me. I wanted to see what BF was about. still its irritating when the mod does not fire.
If you want the mod for I long term device, I would not buy this one. Just my 2cw
If you want the mod for I long term device, I would not buy this one. Just my 2cw
Are they your daily vapes?
For the last week yes. Been rotating them with another dripper or two every day, but the 12 hours at work are mainly vaped on them. Got two difderent atomizers on them though, the originals are crap IMO. Still worth the price I think, good intro into bottom feeding.
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