Coppervape dry fire solution

GregF

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The Coppervape is a great squonker, for the most part. They are reasonably robust (so far anyway) and they are a reasonably cheap way to get into squonking.

I didn’t like the BF atty that it came with, too messy and too big, and I use a clone OL16. Great for MTL or DTL depending on your preference. A RM2 or Cyclone works great as well.

Anyway my point being is that it is a mechanical device and there is not much that can go wrong, except for not firing, which brings me to the point of this thread.

This is the only problem that I have had so far with this device, and in the beginning it happened quite often and drove me mad. You press the button and nothing happens. Hopefully this will help anyone else experiencing this problem as it took me a few little fault finding missions to pin it down.

First things first, it is a mechanical device, like a Reo, so follow the Reo steps for maintenance and preventative maintenance. Use Deoxit and/or Dielectric grease on the positive contact and the battery negative screw contact to prevent arcing on the battery and to ensure a true contact.

Keep it clean, again it is a mechanical device so pull the battery and wash it under the tap if you want. There is no electronics to worry about.

If you are hit the fire button and nothing happens:-

1. Make sure your battery is OK (yes this is point number 1).

2. Make sure your atty is OK. Screws tight, coil not broken etc (yes this has to be here as well).

3. Tighten the battery negative contact screw on the bottom. This was a problem until I used some dielectric grease on the terminal.

4. Make sure there is no dirt or grit on the two faces that meet when you put the top onto the body. The body is the negative from the battery and it needs to complete the circuit to the top part where the atty is.

5. Tighten firing pin positive contact screw and the bottle screw on the spring plate.

6. If all else fails, and this one had me for a while, dismantle the whole firing mechanism, bottle and inner 510 connector (only two screws and take note of where all the fibre washers go as these are insulators). You will see the underneath of the 510 has two holes on either side. Stick a long nose or needle nose pliers in there and tighten up the 510 connector. For me this was the cause of most of my problems.
 
The Coppervape is a great squonker, for the most part. They are reasonably robust (so far anyway) and they are a reasonably cheap way to get into squonking.

I didn’t like the BF atty that it came with, too messy and too big, and I use a clone OL16. Great for MTL or DTL depending on your preference. A RM2 or Cyclone works great as well.

Anyway my point being is that it is a mechanical device and there is not much that can go wrong, except for not firing, which brings me to the point of this thread.

This is the only problem that I have had so far with this device, and in the beginning it happened quite often and drove me mad. You press the button and nothing happens. Hopefully this will help anyone else experiencing this problem as it took me a few little fault finding missions to pin it down.

First things first, it is a mechanical device, like a Reo, so follow the Reo steps for maintenance and preventative maintenance. Use Deoxit and/or Dielectric grease on the positive contact and the battery negative screw contact to prevent arcing on the battery and to ensure a true contact.

Keep it clean, again it is a mechanical device so pull the battery and wash it under the tap if you want. There is no electronics to worry about.

If you are hit the fire button and nothing happens:-

1. Make sure your battery is OK (yes this is point number 1).

2. Make sure your atty is OK. Screws tight, coil not broken etc (yes this has to be here as well).

3. Tighten the battery negative contact screw on the bottom. This was a problem until I used some dielectric grease on the terminal.

4. Make sure there is no dirt or grit on the two faces that meet when you put the top onto the body. The body is the negative from the battery and it needs to complete the circuit to the top part where the atty is.

5. Tighten firing pin positive contact screw and the bottle screw on the spring plate.

6. If all else fails, and this one had me for a while, dismantle the whole firing mechanism, bottle and inner 510 connector (only two screws and take note of where all the fibre washers go as these are insulators). You will see the underneath of the 510 has two holes on either side. Stick a long nose or needle nose pliers in there and tighten up the 510 connector. For me this was the cause of most of my problems.
Thanks @GregF, good advice.

So you mention tightening the 510 connector, so this means it screws into the body and is not a press fit? (Stupid question I know...)

Is there any way to adjust the 510 connection? I am running a OL16 on there and it does not turn down all the way. That little 0.3mm gap has my OCD on overtime.

All in all a great little mod, I agree, just that gap Grrrrr!

Thanks and Regards
 
That is correct @Raindance the 510 screws in from the bottom.
As far as pin adjustment goes, from what I can remember there is a spare fibre washer in the packet that is a different thickness to the one fitted. This will allow you to raise or lower the pin.
You could also just put an oring under the atty to close the gap.
 
That is correct @Raindance the 510 screws in from the bottom.
As far as pin adjustment goes, from what I can remember there is a spare fibre washer in the packet that is a different thickness to the one fitted. This will allow you to raise or lower the pin.
You could also just put an oring under the atty to close the gap.
Great advice, thanks! Never checked what else was in the box...

Regards
 
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