Custom made Proudly SA Mod

Thank you,
the ventilation is sufficient for the mod.
In terms of protection measures on the mod itself there aren't any, I would recommend you always check for shorts on your atty before using it on the mod.
But you would be able to fit a hot spring, if requested? At the expense of a little longer mod, I presume?
 
Hi Guys, don't get me wrong, I think I am one of the first vapers who send @Justin Pattrick a PM regarding his mod, I just love it, I just want to find some clearings on certain issues, but otherwise we can be proud of such craftsman. But I agree the moment you start to work with any mechanical mod, you must be extra careful, but you will definitely enjoy the ride.
 
@blujeenz, I agree with you, that is why Rob from Reomods got it covered with a collapsible spring, so no need for a fuse! Reomods tried and tested, but that is part of the learning process.

Ok, I now see where you were going with your initial question, I thought you were perhaps "local mod" bashing, hence my mini lecture. *pardon* :)

So technically the spring cuts the circuit after sagging due to excessive heat, I wont put my sock on a rock, but Id imagine that JP mod has a spring batt contact in there, which theoretically should handle fuse functions.
 
Ok, I now see where you were going with your initial question, I thought you were perhaps "local mod" bashing, hence my mini lecture. *pardon* :)

So technically the spring cuts the circuit after sagging due to excessive heat, I wont put my sock on a rock, but Id imagine that JP mod has a spring batt contact in there, which theoretically should handle fuse functions.


I have not made this mod with a spring battery contact, it is a copper screw contact, I would be able to use a spring contact, but I find it unnecessary. @Petrus i understand where you are coming from 100 percent, but as long as you are confident in your builds and just check them before hand, as one should always do with mech mods there will be no issues.
 
I have not made this mod with a spring battery contact, it is a copper screw contact, I would be able to use a spring contact, but I find it unnecessary. @Petrus i understand where you are coming from 100 percent, but as long as you are confident in your builds and just check them before hand, as one should always do with mech mods there will be no issues.
Thing is this - if, for example, your mod fires in your briefcase and you do not have a hot spring, you could be in trouble. Just the other day my Woodvil's button pressed against something in the car and by the time I realized it, it was almost too late.

I am very interested in having a locally made squonker, but will not contemplate it without a hot spring or similar. A locking mechanism should also be considered.

At this stage I like the idea of something like @zadiac's VR mod in aluminium.
 
I have to agree with @Andre. I have 3 imported squonkers that are really beautiful and the finish on them is nothing short of outstanding... but they don't have on/off switches nor do they have a collapsable spring... that means I can't really travel out with them or put them in my pocket or in my vape bag without removing the battery. The result is that they stay at home on the vape desk... the humble REO's go out and about with me 98% of the time.
 
I have to agree with @Andre. I have 3 imported squonkers that are really beautiful and the finish on them is nothing short of outstanding... but they don't have on/off switches nor do they have a collapsable spring... that means I can't really travel out with them or put them in my pocket or in my vape bag without removing the battery. The result is that they stay at home on the vape desk... the humble REO's go out and about with me 98% of the time.

My trick to travelling with the mod is to unscrew the atty just a tad so that it does not make contact with the bottom pin.
If that does not give you comfort, then just get a small piece of plastic (2mm) and wedge it in between the atty and 510.

You will then be able to carry it in your pocket or bag safely.

I do agree though that it just feels safer carrying the Reo around knowing that the button has a lock.
 
Thing is this - if, for example, your mod fires in your briefcase and you do not have a hot spring, you could be in trouble. Just the other day my Woodvil's button pressed against something in the car and by the time I realized it, it was almost too late.

I am very interested in having a locally made squonker, but will not contemplate it without a hot spring or similar. A locking mechanism should also be considered.

At this stage I like the idea of something like @zadiac's VR mod in aluminium.
What good is a hot spring if your mod auto fires? It won't collapse, the atomizer/coil/wick will just get really really hot until something gives or fizzles out.
I have to agree with @Andre. I have 3 imported squonkers that are really beautiful and the finish on them is nothing short of outstanding... but they don't have on/off switches nor do they have a collapsable spring... that means I can't really travel out with them or put them in my pocket or in my vape bag without removing the battery. The result is that they stay at home on the vape desk... the humble REO's go out and about with me 98% of the time.
For those mods that don't have a locking mechanism, surely there's a way to adjust the button throw? Then just adjust it so that it's too long to make contact.
 
What good is a hot spring if your mod auto fires? contact.

Only auto fire scenario I can think of where the battery contact/spring is bypassed, is if your battery wrap is damaged.
While I dont think it can be the only scenario, checking your battery cosmetic condition will keep you in safe waters 99% of the time.
 
The P67 will be released January 2016. Unfortunately Rob got problems with his milling machine. If our local mod had a hot spring, I would have definitely spoiled myself AGAIN.
 
What good is a hot spring if your mod auto fires? It won't collapse, the atomizer/coil/wick will just get really really hot until something gives or fizzles out.
That is a good point. If the battery gets hot enough, the spring will probably collapse, but even if not, I have seen a Reo Woodvil which fired like that in someone's handbag - the atty was a write off, as was the 510 connection and the firing mechanisms and tubing below the 510. One cannot believe the heat created by such a mishap.
 
Just on the topic of the hot spring. If the battery gets really hot be it a short or a fire for an extended period of time, the negative terminal gets hot and collapses.
By hot I mean hotter than normal use.
I have collapsed a spring accidentally by putting in a .4 ohm coil and accidentally firing the mod for about 20 seconds without noticing.
 
My personal view is a 'lock off' switch is a better idea than a 'hot spring' that may or may not collapse depending on how the spring was made, how old it is and how much current is passing through it.
Dave
 
My personal view is a 'lock off' switch is a better idea than a 'hot spring' that may or may not collapse depending on how the spring was made, how old it is and how much current is passing through it.
Dave
Yeah, from what I have learnt from this thread, seems a locking mechanism should be first priority. A hot spring would be an added safety measure.
 
My personal view is a 'lock off' switch is a better idea than a 'hot spring' that may or may not collapse depending on how the spring was made, how old it is and how much current is passing through it.
Dave

The problem with the "lock off" switch is more engineering time= more expense.
The hot spring is favoured due to its simplicity, but as you have pointed out, its an art to getting the spring wire metal/dia combo right in order to overheat sufficiently to lose temper and collapse just past the battery continous current rating.
 
The problem with the "lock off" switch is more engineering time= more expense.
The hot spring is favoured due to its simplicity, but as you have pointed out, its an art to getting the spring wire metal/dia combo right in order to overheat sufficiently to lose temper and collapse just past the battery continous current rating.
Just use a Reo spring?
 
The problem with the "lock off" switch is more engineering time= more expense.
I agree and it will increase the cost/price, I'm happy to pay the extra knowing it will not set fire to my handbag.:rolleyes: It's a good first safety to have.
Dave
 
With any safety elements you drag the load, just saying. I think this mod is too sexy to not be a good performer.
 
Putting a lock on the switch should be easy really, just use the same method as the Reo, its simple and works like a charm. As for the hot spring, this might be tricky, you'd need a delrin cover like on the Reo to keep the battery away from making contact with the positive contact/leaf.
 
I have spoken to Justin with regard to a 'lock off' he has already looked at this safety arrangement and fitting it as standard. It will be incorporated on my mod. Of course if you don't want it then just talk to Justin.
As regards the 'hot spring' that is not a problem and again talk to Justin if you want a 'hot spring'. As with any (special) requirements there will be a cost involved - there is no such thing as a free lunch, someone has to pay.

One may ask why not fit the 'hot spring' as standard well I don't want a 'hot spring' just the safety 'lock off', for me that will suffice.

Justin will make a mod as per your requirements all you have to do is talk to him, and have no doubts his engineering is as good as anywhere else in the world. If you like 'Custom Classic Mods' then you will like Justin's mods (with some of your own flair) - and now better with a 'lock off'

Dave
 
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