Decided to polish Subox mini

Hi Guys , sorry cant post pics at work of how to take it apart but hopefully the below helps. Its super simple .

1) Remove the battery & the first screw(the one that's visible) , the second screw is under the round Kangertech sticker so you'll have to tear it off first.

2) Hook a finger behind the negative pin at the top(spring pin) & gently pull at it while at the same time pressing down on the fire button to help push it out. Don't bother pressing against the screen glass as it is stuck on from the outside(To take out the glass it needs to be popped out from the inside) If you now look from the top you should see that your 510 pin has moved a bit out of place. Don't try to force it out any more .Start with the bottom

3) Now at the bottom use a screw driver & push at the front USB port GENTLY. Id suggest an earbud maybe to avoid damaging the USB port. While pushing the USB .At the back press a finger onto the positive pin pull from the inside .Use more pulling force here so it relieves some of the stress you are placing on the USB.

4) By now you should notice both ends top & bottom & sticking out a bit past the metal casing. From here on its just a matter of pull a bit at the top , stop , pull a bit at the bottom , stop , then back to the top. Eventually I just held the device between my thumb & forefinger & whacked it against my other hand & the inside popped out. Hard to explain but it's the same way you smack a pack of cigarettes against your palm.

VERY IMPORTANT :
1)On the outer part of the negative post there is a spring & cap that is held in place & will pop out once you have removed the inner case. Suggest keeping your finger on top as you are pulling out or at least do this somewhere that if it does pop out you can find it & it wont roll away under a cupboard or something.
2) If you decide to pop out the glass cover for the LCD remember to pop it out from the inside. Its held in place by a sticky tape. If you're careful you can reuse the tape but I ended up folding mine so I just dabbed some superglue to 2 corners & stuck the glass back

That's about it I guess.

Guys , my apologies if I've made absolutely no sense. Tried to explain it as best as I could so don't hesitate to ask if you need any clarity.

Wow I didn't realise how much I wrote:eek:
 
This looks fantastic man! Well done!

But yea any idea of the safest way of taking the mod apart? Myself and a customer tried the other day but gave up due to the thought of bending the mod, its a hard cookie to crack apart!

On another note do you not think something like Thinners would have made this process a lot easier and quicker or do you have a reason for not doing that?
Thanks @SlinX . To be honest I didn't think about that lol.
The base metal is a dull grey so would still have to sand with finer grits to get the polished effect.
 
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Hi Guys , sorry cant post pics at work of how to take it apart but hopefully the below helps. Its super simple .

1) Remove the battery & the first screw(the one that's visible) , the second screw is under the round Kangertech sticker so you'll have to tear it off first.

2) Hook a finger behind the negative pin at the top(spring pin) & gently pull at it while at the same time pressing down on the fire button to help push it out. Don't bother pressing against the screen glass as it is stuck on from the outside(To take out the glass it needs to be popped out from the inside) If you now look from the top you should see that your 510 pin has moved a bit out of place. Don't try to force it out any more .Start with the bottom

3) Now at the bottom use a screw driver & push at the front USB port GENTLY. Id suggest an earbud maybe to avoid damaging the USB port. While pushing the USB .At the back press a finger onto the positive pin pull from the inside .Use more pulling force here so it relieves some of the stress you are placing on the USB.

4) By now you should notice both ends top & bottom & sticking out a bit past the metal casing. From here on its just a matter of pull a bit at the top , stop , pull a bit at the bottom , stop , then back to the top. Eventually I just held the device between my thumb & forefinger & whacked it against my other hand & the inside popped out. Hard to explain but it's the same way you smack a pack of cigarettes against your palm.

VERY IMPORTANT :
1)On the outer part of the negative post there is a spring & cap that is held in place & will pop out once you have removed the inner case. Suggest keeping your finger on top as you are pulling out or at least do this somewhere that if it does pop out you can find it & it wont roll away under a cupboard or something.
2) If you decide to pop out the glass cover for the LCD remember to pop it out from the inside. Its held in place by a sticky tape. If you're careful you can reuse the tape but I ended up folding mine so I just dabbed some superglue to 2 corners & stuck the glass back

That's about it I guess.

Guys , my apologies if I've made absolutely no sense. Tried to explain it as best as I could so don't hesitate to ask if you need any clarity.
winner fantastic thank you
 
what polish did you use to shine that baby up after using that sand paper thats as smooth as a baby bum lol

Autosol metal polish . Awesome stuff . Lol you should see what it does to the tail piece of an exhaust
 
That looks quite slick, but I bet in the raw polished form it's such a fingerprint magnet it can even lifts prints off of any other device located closer than 15 cm to it.
 
Please just remember removing the kanger sticker hiding the second screw immediately voids any warranty on the product
 
That looks quite slick, but I bet in the raw polished form it's such a fingerprint magnet it can even lifts prints off of any other device located closer than 15 cm to it.
Batman doesnt leave prints;)
 
Please just remember removing the kanger sticker hiding the second screw immediately voids any warranty on the product
Yes , thank you for mentioning that...... I totally forgot to add it to my post
 
Brilliant, I love that! :D
Hey mate maybe instead of a sticker on the side perhaps you can think about having the Kangertech name and logo etched on the side with a laser I think that would look incredible and then send some pictures to Kangertech and show them how it should look. Great job bud... now where is that sandpaper and my old kbox..........
 
Hey mate maybe instead of a sticker on the side perhaps you can think about having the Kangertech name and logo etched on the side with a laser I think that would look incredible and then send some pictures to Kangertech and show them how it should look. Great job bud... now where is that sandpaper and my old kbox..........
Thanks bud . Appreciate it
 
@Khan83 THAT IS THE BOMB MAN! I think it looks totally awesome! Are you going to do a clear coat over it?
Thanks @Clouder . Didn't get around to clear coating it yet as I don't have a spare mod to use while this one cures. Hoping to get another something soon so will tackle it once I'm sorted with a spare
 
Thanks @Clouder . Didn't get around to clear coating it yet as I don't have a spare mod to use while this one cures. Hoping to get another something soon so will tackle it once I'm sorted with a spare
is it a fingerprint magnet ?
 
I'll just leave this here:rolleyes: These are shiny and flush fit a subbox.

2015-best-vape-tank-vapmod-Xtank-4.jpg
 
Bliksem, is that a long range tank for a camel adventure?

Vapmod Xtank v4.0. 10ml's juice. Got this tank myself for sh*ts-n-giggles, but the vape is surprisingly pretty damn good (Most probably due to the almost non-existent chimney and the parallel 0.2Ohm coil). The 0.2Ohm coil works well below 50Watt. Some folks say it leaks, I don't know about that, I've put over 200ml's through mine without a single drop leaking. I think it's because alot of numbnuts think you can topfill it....not a good idea. I think it also takes Triton/Atlantis coils/rba.

The setup on a Subbox Mini is a bit tall, but it's better on something like an iStick50, where the balance is better.
 
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