Diy Wire Zapper
- Thread starter johan
- Start date
700mA is more than enough
Replaced the SCR on the zapper...no smoke came out this time...There is a spark when zapping the wire but there doesn't seem to be much penetration of the weld...@johan how long should the device charge for?
ACHTUNG!!
Don't hold 1 wire still with your finger while trying to zap...It gets f@#$ng hot instantly!
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ACHTUNG!!
Don't hold 1 wire still with your finger while trying to zap...It gets f@#$ng hot instantly!
Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk
Ja brain was seriously disengaged!LOL use croc-clips - should take maximum 60 seconds to chargeHot things do penetrate skin
Will retry now with a croc-clip.
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The 2 wires must be in contact (+/- 1 to 3mm overlap) and obviously "still"
can't you mount your croc-clips somehow?
got told this story a few weeks ago by a mate about his one mate.
seems the fella was soldering and his soldering iron died so he took apart an old hairdryer, got some of the heating wire from there and was using that to solder with. got distracted and somehow dropped the hot wire onto his leg where it burned itself into the leg. the guy to this day still has the wire in his leg
seems the fella was soldering and his soldering iron died so he took apart an old hairdryer, got some of the heating wire from there and was using that to solder with. got distracted and somehow dropped the hot wire onto his leg where it burned itself into the leg. the guy to this day still has the wire in his leg
Will figure something out to mount them
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In the interim just keep trying - hopefully you shake them together at the point the current discharge throught the caps
If Mantech have them I will pick one up tomorrow.
Great idea @denizenx
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think the one i have my mate got at one of those chinese shops for 40 bucks. the proper ones are way more expensive
Been playing with the wire zapper today. Previously I was using 28g kanthal to test the zapping and it was not working - not enough weld penetration. Doesn't 'zap' alot.
Decided to try thinner gauge wire - 32g kanthal and 32g NR wire. Seriously big spark and and the wire melts and disappears in the area of the join.
I wanted to try 28g kanthal to 32g NR but due to my own stupidity I let the 2 croc-clips touch and with a loud bang the SCR released its smoke
??
Decided to try thinner gauge wire - 32g kanthal and 32g NR wire. Seriously big spark and and the wire melts and disappears in the area of the join.
I wanted to try 28g kanthal to 32g NR but due to my own stupidity I let the 2 croc-clips touch and with a loud bang the SCR released its smoke
??Been playing with the wire zapper today. Previously I was using 28g kanthal to test the zapping and it was not working - not enough weld penetration. Doesn't 'zap' alot.
Decided to try thinner gauge wire - 32g kanthal and 32g NR wire. Seriously big spark and and the wire melts and disappears in the area of the join.
I wanted to try 28g kanthal to 32g NR but due to my own stupidity I let the 2 croc-clips touch and with a loud bang the SCR released its smoke
If penetration is not adequate you can add 1 or more capacitors (parallel connected to existing ones). To protect the SCR against "loosing its smoke" in accidental touching the croc-clips, fit a 2.2 Ohm / 10W resistor in series with one of the outputs.
I thought one of these jobbies would round out the tool box nicely. I took some tips from the comments and added another cap for high/low zapping.
I also used the croc clips from my helping hands, mounting them on some rounded head machine screws. I used a BT151-800 with a 12A rms current capability, I expect this one will be much harder at releasing its smoke. oh yeah, they cost R8 at Mantech electronics.
Finally found a use for those compressed wood spacers from pallets, a nice box for my zapper once it had the inside hollowed out with a spade bit.
Theres a power socket on the side for an old HP 610C printer psu, even though the label says its 30V DC it actually charges the caps to 43V which is a bit high for 50V capacitors, as well as vapourising #28 easily on high.
A look inside.
Operation.
A bright flash and not quite joined, going to try a different psu with a lower voltage. Kanthal on the left and nickel on the right.
2nd attempt, holds well but just doesnt look right.
@johan the mcr106 has the gate and cathode reversed in the schematic and board view. It has to have the heatsink tab facing away from the capacitors instead of towards them.
I also used the croc clips from my helping hands, mounting them on some rounded head machine screws. I used a BT151-800 with a 12A rms current capability, I expect this one will be much harder at releasing its smoke.
oh yeah, they cost R8 at Mantech electronics.Finally found a use for those compressed wood spacers from pallets, a nice box for my zapper once it had the inside hollowed out with a spade bit.
Theres a power socket on the side for an old HP 610C printer psu, even though the label says its 30V DC it actually charges the caps to 43V which is a bit high for 50V capacitors, as well as vapourising #28 easily on high.
A look inside.
Operation.
A bright flash and not quite joined, going to try a different psu with a lower voltage. Kanthal on the left and nickel on the right.
2nd attempt, holds well but just doesnt look right.
@johan the mcr106 has the gate and cathode reversed in the schematic and board view. It has to have the heatsink tab facing away from the capacitors instead of towards them.
communica also has them on special last time i was there
I thought one of these jobbies would round out the tool box nicely. I took some tips from the comments and added another cap for high/low zapping.
I also used the croc clips from my helping hands, mounting them on some rounded head machine screws. I used a BT151-800 with a 12A rms current capability, I expect this one will be much harder at releasing its smoke.
Finally found a use for those compressed wood spacers from pallets, a nice box for my zapper once it had the inside hollowed out with a spade bit.
Theres a power socket on the side for an old HP 610C printer psu, even though the label says its 30V DC it actually charges the caps to 43V which is a bit high for 50V capacitors, as well as vapourising #28 easily on high.
View attachment 38872
A look inside.
View attachment 38873
Operation.
View attachment 38874
A bright flash and not quite joined, going to try a different psu with a lower voltage. Kanthal on the left and nickel on the right.
View attachment 38879
2nd attempt, holds well but just doesnt look right.
View attachment 38880
@johan the mcr106 has the gate and cathode reversed in the schematic and board view. It has to have the heatsink tab facing away from the capacitors instead of towards them.
View attachment 38882
Anything is possible, even the impossible; it just takes time
