DNA 40 Board impressions and discussions

[Alex]

These DNA40 boards sure seem very temperamental. Why not just stick to kanthal for now and leave the temp control?

 

[b1scu17]

These DNA40 boards sure seem very temperamental. Why not just stick to kanthal for now and leave the temp control?

Just my luck... I don't have any kanthal anymore LOL

I'll have to go purchase some


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[b1scu17]

UPDATE:

I took an extra o-ring from the spares I got with my Squape Reloaded and also put it over the centre pin and screwed it out quite far. It seems to have sorted out the problem I had of the atty's resistance jumping around.
When I got the burnt taste and stuff the resistance was still stable so I still have no clue why it freaked out on me.

One thing I also noticed is that when I had it in celcius mode and tried turning it off by raising the temp till it said "OFF", it would still actually be on. I would fire it and it said "Temperature Protection". I switched to Fahrenheit and then turned it "OFF" and it actually turned off. I couldn't replicate the problem though. Most of the time it would successfully turn off when doing it from celcius. Probably just a rare bug

Things seem stable for now... Touch wood

So if anyone has similar problems, check the centre pin of the atty pushes firmly against the mod's pin. Mine was touching but seems it really needs to push against each other to be stable. At least the Squape R has an adjustable pin.

 

[b1scu17]

Another update... lol

Touching wood didn't work haha

It didn't take long and I got the "temperature protection" error but I think I'm making some interesting discoveries. More related to using this Squape R with the DNA 40. This might apply to SOME other atty's out there, I don't know... Maybe someone will find this with a Google search or something and save them some frustration. I Googled like crazy for others using the DNA 40 with the Squape but not much is popping up

I built a 2mm spaced coil with ten wraps and the resistance was jumping around like crazy. I think this is also what caused the temperature to disappear completely. I was ready to pull my hair out but I just can't give up.
So I know I stabilised the connection between the mod and atty's pin...
Next, it seems that the coating on the deck of this Squape clone isn't entirely non-conductive.... not really surprised... It is DEFINITELY doing something that the DNA 40 is NOT enjoying!

I would normally just let the coil rest inside the deck's channel and the wire would make ever so slight contact with the deck. So I took a super tiny flat screwdriver and VERY carefully lifted the wire away from the deck so it doesn't make any contact with anything other than the positive and negative posts. The nickel is very soft so if you're not careful it will mess up the coil.
Before this step, the resistance would jump between 0.2 and 0.45 with every press of the fire button. After it dropped to 0.13.

Couple of vapes in and it's still stays at 0.13 ohm and the temperature on the display is also not climbing anywhere near as fast as before!

This probably won't apply to an original Squape but with so many clones in the wild things like this is bound to happen...

One step at a time I suppose...

 

[WHeunis]

Another update... lol

Touching wood didn't work haha

It didn't take long and I got the "temperature protection" error but I think I'm making some interesting discoveries. More related to using this Squape R with the DNA 40. This might apply to SOME other atty's out there, I don't know... Maybe someone will find this with a Google search or something and save them some frustration. I Googled like crazy for others using the DNA 40 with the Squape but not much is popping up

I built a 2mm spaced coil with ten wraps and the resistance was jumping around like crazy. I think this is also what caused the temperature to disappear completely. I was ready to pull my hair out but I just can't give up.
So I know I stabilised the connection between the mod and atty's pin...
Next, it seems that the coating on the deck of this Squape clone isn't entirely non-conductive.... not really surprised... It is DEFINITELY doing something that the DNA 40 is NOT enjoying!

I would normally just let the coil rest inside the deck's channel and the wire would make ever so slight contact with the deck. So I took a super tiny flat screwdriver and VERY carefully lifted the wire away from the deck so it doesn't make any contact with anything other than the positive and negative posts. The nickel is very soft so if you're not careful it will mess up the coil.
Before this step, the resistance would jump between 0.2 and 0.45 with every press of the fire button. After it dropped to 0.13.

Couple of vapes in and it's still stays at 0.13 ohm and the temperature on the display is also not climbing anywhere near as fast as before!

This probably won't apply to an original Squape but with so many clones in the wild things like this is bound to happen...

One step at a time I suppose...

That was the reason I didnt trust the Squape clones...
Sure, they're good enough for Kanthal builds (mostly), but with something as dangerous as unprotected battery shorts, one can never be too sure!
A lot of people on FT have reported that the coating is slightly conductive (as you mentioned it made the DNA40 go apeshit), and others have even reported the coating just coming off halfway through a tank of juice, leaving completely exposed conductive metal out in the open and makes it an almost nearly useless device at that point.

But it sure does seem that these DNA40's are temperamental. For good reason too...
The way that the chip is able to regulate temperature, is that it isn't really measuring temperature at all.
It's actually reading and monitoring the slight resistance changes that Ni200 goes through when it heats up.
Ni200 is sensitive enough to heat, that it's resistance changes to even the slightest variation.
So if you have ANYTHING wrong with your build, mod, or anything that isnt near perfect = DNA40 will have a fit.

 

[Silver]

Hi @b1scu17

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the DNA40 and your Squape clone
I admire your perseverance and determination
Hope you get it right for good and can enjoy all the benefits of the temp control

As a matter of interest, have you tried a different atty?

 

[b1scu17]

That was the reason I didnt trust the Squape clones...
Sure, they're good enough for Kanthal builds (mostly), but with something as dangerous as unprotected battery shorts, one can never be too sure!
A lot of people on FT have reported that the coating is slightly conductive (as you mentioned it made the DNA40 go apeshit), and others have even reported the coating just coming off halfway through a tank of juice, leaving completely exposed conductive metal out in the open and makes it an almost nearly useless device at that point.

But it sure does seem that these DNA40's are temperamental. For good reason too...
The way that the chip is able to regulate temperature, is that it isn't really measuring temperature at all.
It's actually reading and monitoring the slight resistance changes that Ni200 goes through when it heats up.
Ni200 is sensitive enough to heat, that it's resistance changes to even the slightest variation.
So if you have ANYTHING wrong with your build, mod, or anything that isnt near perfect = DNA40 will have a fit.

Yeah, didn't expect this from the decks at all...
With all the Googling I saw someone say Evolv didn't give a whole lot of info about how to really build good working nickel coils so it's up to the users to try different things and see what works and what doesn't. lol

Seems like the atty buying days aren't over LOL.... Will it ever be

Hi @b1scu17

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the DNA40 and your Squape clone
I admire your perseverance and determination
Hope you get it right for good and can enjoy all the benefits of the temp control

As a matter of interest, have you tried a different atty?

I sold my mech mod, battery, charger, kanthal wire and Kayfun 3.1 clone to a friend to get some money back that I spent on the rDNA

I absolutely LOVE being able to rebuild without draining the liquid so I'm thinking of maybe getting a Kayfun 4 and seeing whether it works better with a nickel build. I did see someone say to open up the juice control all the way as it also seems to mess up the resistance with nickel build if it's not fully opened. Whether that's only a clone problem, I don't know.

I think I would've wasted so much more juice if I had to rebuild on another atty that required me to drain the juice everytime.

I was very surprised that the Kayfun 4 original also cost like $180

Oh well... With great power comes great responsibility... to make sure your nickel build is perfect

 

[b1scu17]

So yesterday I bought a Kayfun 4 and tested the nickel.

First coil in, I obviously didn't clean the atty enough and got a SLIGHT machine oil taste LOL thoroughly cleaned it after that

The Kayfun 4 also has it's snags with nickel which seems to originate from the juice control, although it apparently also happens with Kanthal builds.
You really have to make sure the juice control is open all the way and makes full solid contact. If the juice control opens and the deck gets raised the resistance changes or jumps around.

I also noticed similar things with the Kayfun's centre pin and the nickel. With both the squape and the kayfun 4, if the centre pin is screwed out a little and it can wiggle, it throws the resistance off at times. Screwing it in all the way in so it cannot wiggle at all made the resistance stay put or in the case of the squape I put it an extra o-ring, screwed it in tight against the o-rings so it's sticks out further but can still seal, preventing leaking and doesn't wiggle at all.

Super happy with the rDNA40! You just have to figure out the things with your atty that can make things unstable

 

[andro]

So yesterday I bought a Kayfun 4 and tested the nickel.

First coil in, I obviously didn't clean the atty enough and got a SLIGHT machine oil taste LOL thoroughly cleaned it after that

The Kayfun 4 also has it's snags with nickel which seems to originate from the juice control, although it apparently also happens with Kanthal builds.
You really have to make sure the juice control is open all the way and makes full solid contact. If the juice control opens and the deck gets raised the resistance changes or jumps around.

I also noticed similar things with the Kayfun's centre pin and the nickel. With both the squape and the kayfun 4, if the centre pin is screwed out a little and it can wiggle, it throws the resistance off at times. Screwing it in all the way in so it cannot wiggle at all made the resistance stay put or in the case of the squape I put it an extra o-ring, screwed it in tight against the o-rings so it's sticks out further but can still seal, preventing leaking and doesn't wiggle at all.

Super happy with the rDNA40! You just have to figure out the things with your atty that can make things unstable

i will post later a build with nickel on my kayfun v4 with photo . i dont know what size wire is but is very thin and flimsy . done a twisted coil and worked very well

 

[b1scu17]

i will post later a build with nickel on my kayfun v4 with photo . i dont know what size wire is but is very thin and flimsy . done a twisted coil and worked very well

Nice! Looking forward!

Would like to hear if you have experienced the same things with the centre pin and juice control.

I don't mind these things, it's just a mission trying to figure everything out lol
Especially with nickel being far less forgiving than kanthal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Paulie]

I have got a DNA 40 yesterday v4 I will rebuild and test again and give feedback since v4 supposed to be less glitches

 

[andro]

Nice! Looking forward!

Would like to hear if you have experienced the same things with the centre pin and juice control.

I don't mind these things, it's just a mission trying to figure everything out lol
Especially with nickel being far less forgiving than kanthal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

no problem with center pin and the block doesnt move at all
im using the pallas kayfun v4 than @kimbo gently sent me to try out . and im really happy with it .
this is the build with twisted nickel wire show 0.22
on the meter and 0.19
on the vaporshark .



japanese cotton


i must say the flavour of this thing is amazing .

 

[andro]

I have got a DNA 40 yesterday v4 I will rebuild and test again and give feedback since v4 supposed to be less glitches

what does v4 mean ? do you know which one we have in the vaporshark?

 

[Paulie]

what does v4 mean ? do you know which one we have in the vaporshark?

yes my flask has v2 and the shark has v4 in it

 

[Gazzacpt]

This is going to be interesting, as I understand it the nickel wire acts as part of a thermo couple and a dodgy connection or some material that has a resistance change due to heat could throw off a reading. So things like the nautilus with a sprung 510 could pose a problem.

 

[Paulie]

Hey all,

Here a very good Youtube clip around the DNA 40 debate!

 

[Bill]

Very informational video, thanks for posting @Paulie. I really want a dna40 device but will all these issues not sure if I should wait.

To the dna40 owners, In normal with kanthal, how is the vape, has anyone experienced issues in non temp mode?

 

[Richard]

Very informational video, thanks for posting @Paulie. I really want a dna40 device but will all these issues not sure if I should wait.

To the dna40 owners, In normal with kanthal, how is the vape, has anyone experienced issues in non temp mode?

I'm very happy with my vaporshark It vapes like a dream in non temp mode (I have some ni200 incoming soon to try the temp mode ).

 

[dekardy]

Very informational video, thanks for posting @Paulie. I really want a dna40 device but will all these issues not sure if I should wait.

To the dna40 owners, In normal with kanthal, how is the vape, has anyone experienced issues in non temp mode?

None whatsoever. I bought a Vapor Shark rdna 40 simply because I was looking for a small box mod that can take an 18650, has proper step down with a DNA board. Sure we can probably argue on the size but it's certainly a lot smaller than a SVD 2.

Been using a Nautilus, both normal and mini, Atlantis, Orchid v3, Kayfun Lite, Kayfun 4 and a Subtank mini on it and its a pretty awesome little device. The Subtank Mini being my absolute favorite.

The temp sensing works ok using the aspire temp sensing coils. I say OK because I build a ni200 coil on the subtank mini RBA and it's certainly much better. It's better because of the better airflow on the subtank, I think. That said I did have some issues on the ni200 build today but I think it's because I was playing around too much. I think that you need to build the coil, let it cool down to room temp put it on the VS or rather DNA40 and then leave it and let it do it's thing.

Back to you question the DNA40 with kanthal without temp mode work as you would expect. The board is very efficient wrt to battery usage. As an example the LG 2500 mAh lasts me well over a day were an efest 3100mAh ran out on other devices late at night.

Hope that helps somewhat.

 

[Bill]

Thanks for the

I'm very happy with my vaporshark It vapes like a dream in non temp mode (I have some ni200 incoming soon to try the temp mode ).

None whatsoever. I bought a Vapor Shark rdna 40 simply because I was looking for a small box mod that can take an 18650, has proper step down with a DNA board. Sure we can probably argue on the size but it's certainly a lot smaller than a SVD 2.

Been using a Nautilus, both normal and mini, Atlantis, Orchid v3, Kayfun Lite, Kayfun 4 and a Subtank mini on it and its a pretty awesome little device. The Subtank Mini being my absolute favorite.

The temp sensing works ok using the aspire temp sensing coils. I say OK because I build a ni200 coil on the subtank mini RBA and it's certainly much better. It's better because of the better airflow on the subtank, I think. That said I did have some issues on the ni200 build today but I think it's because I was playing around too much. I think that you need to build the coil, let it cool down to room temp put it on the VS or rather DNA40 and then leave it and let it do it's thing.

Back to you question the DNA40 with kanthal without temp mode work as you would expect. The board is very efficient wrt to battery usage. As an example the LG 2500 mAh lasts me well over a day were an efest 3100mAh ran out on other devices late at night.

Hope that helps somewhat.

Thats a great help, thanks for the info @dekardy and @Richard, I'm going to try and source a couple boards and give it go. I have a VaporShark dna30 which I would like to retrofit into a dna40 and another idea for a box mod

 

[dekardy]

@Bill , if your able to get some boards let me know please cause I would be interested in getting one too.

 

[Bill]

Sure, will do


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[WHITELABEL]

Too funny not to share

 

[VandaL]

Just bought a clone flask v2 from the mob because it was going super cheap. Wonder how hard it will be to mod it with a DNA40 chip once its fixed.

 

[Paulie]

Hey all!

Here some of Phil latested detailed discussions on the DNA 40 boards