Do you REALLY need a 521 Tab?

[Zebelial]

Hi guys,

I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.

I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now

 

[Soutie]

Hi guys,

I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.

I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now

For a Mech MOD... absolutely. No need for one if you have a regulated mod though, can just use the mod to check if your build is correct.
All depends on what mod you are building for.

 

[BumbleBee]

Hi guys,

I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.

I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now

A building platform like the 521 Tab is a "nice to have" but by no means necessary, if you have a good regulated mod that can display your coil resistance then you're pretty much set.

 

[ettiennedj]

Hi @Zebelial , I build on a Lemaga Ohm meter , think it cost me like 150-200 bucks. Only reason for this is to get accurate read of the resistance and it's a nice stable base to build on. The 510 Tab's are however better due to the bigger size which makes it a very stable base and you can pre-fire the coils on the tab but I prefer to fire on a mod. Gluck with the building!

 

[Zebelial]

Well that's good news for my pocket lol. I have a istick 60w and only use it up to 40w. BUT I will be upgrading that to smok alien mod or the Wismec 2/3

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[Zebelial]

Hi @Zebelial , I build on a Lemaga Ohm meter , think it cost me like 150-200 bucks. Only reason for this is to get accurate read of the resistance and it's a nice stable base to build on. The 510 Tab's are however better due to the bigger size which makes it a very stable base and you can pre-fire the coils on the tab but I prefer to fire on a mod. Gluck with the building!

Well that a lot more agree able. Thanks man gonna be some good trail and error going on but hey... All part of the fun

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[Andre]

My 521 Tab is so inaccurate that I have to use a regulated mod to check resistance. Still handy as a stable base and to dry fire coils.

 

[GregF]

My 521 Tab is so inaccurate that I have to use a regulated mod to check resistance. Still handy as a stable base and to dry fire coils.

Yup same problem. Basically use mine for the same purpose.

 

[Spydro]

My 521 Tab is so inaccurate that I have to use a regulated mod to check resistance. Still handy as a stable base and to dry fire coils.

I have two 521 Tab's, two other atty ohm checkers that cost far less. The 521 is a nice enough base to build on, but I have many other "decks" that cost far less to do that with that are even more stable.

Agree with @Andre, they not very accurate (my two don't even always give the same value). As said a regulated mod will be more accurate. But when I really want balls to the wall dead accuracy I use a little Fluke 101 that is always sitting handy on my desk.

 

[Zebelial]

I have two 521 Tab's, two other atty ohm checkers that cost far less. The 521 is a nice enough base to build on, but I have many other "decks" that cost far less to do that with that are even more stable.

Agree with @Andre, they not very accurate (my two don't even always give the same value). As said a regulated mod will be more accurate. But when I really want balls to the wall dead accuracy I use a little Fluke 101 that is always sitting handy on my desk.

View attachment 72191

So for accuracy use an ohm meter that should be available at hardware shops. Glad I'm not 100% fussy. If I can get to 0.25 to 0.35 I am happy. Thanks for all the replies and comments guys. Awesome as always

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[Spydro]

So for accuracy use an ohm meter that should be available at hardware shops. Glad I'm not 100% fussy. If I can get to 0.25 to 0.35 I am happy. Thanks for all the replies and comments guys. Awesome as always

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I'm not overly fussy either. But I am a dedicated sub ohm vaper, and with that comes the need to know. Especially when I build super low sub ohm coils I do want pretty exact accuracy when an error could push a high drain batt's amp draw into the red zone.

 

[Rob Fisher]

Spot on advice from everyone! I have had three 521's (2 authentic and one clone) and I must say they have been a big disappointment... I no longer use them...

 

[Zebelial]

I'm not overly fussy either. But I am a dedicated sub ohm vaper, and with that comes the need to know. Especially when I build super low sub ohm coils I do want pretty exact accuracy when an error could push a high drain batt's amp draw into the red zone.

Point taken. Maybe one day when I'm big I'll try that but for now I'm good playing it safe. I'm still noobing around

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[RichJB]

If you build on your mod, just be sure to turn it off first. Accidentally firing the mod while holding the coil in place with your finger is a mistake you'll only make once.

 

[BrizzyZA (VapeLife)]

Point taken. Maybe one day when I'm big I'll try that but for now I'm good playing it safe. I'm still noobing around

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I found that super low ohms like 0.10 and lower is overrated. You should just find your happy place which is 0.50 ohm clapton for me

 

[Rob Fisher]

If you build on your mod, just be sure to turn it off first. Accidentally firing the mod while holding the coil in place with your finger is a mistake you'll only make once.

You are not a vaper until you have the coil branding... just do it once and get it over and done with!

 

[zadiac]

You are not a vaper until you have the coil branding... just do it once and get it over and done with!

Totally agree. Same with having a bike and no exhaust scars to show for it. I have mine. Also, you haven't ridden a horse properly if you haven't fallen off at least once

 

[Chukin'Vape]

Hi guys,

I am going to go full on DIY with a tank (griffin 25p) I am getting next month. Been watching all the videos I can regarding this and how to get to the correct ohms that i want etc. I see some of the guys, when building are building on a 521 tab, and some of them just build the deck on the mod itself. Does one really need a 521 tab for coil building or will the mod be good enough for building.

I am not starting with anything serious, just a normal 0.3ohm 24awg kanthal...for now

I second what @BumbleBee said here, by no means do you need a 521 or any coil building block as part of your starter pack. TBH - I still dont have one, I personally always build on the mod that the tank will be sitting on. However you learn pretty quickly (after you burn your finger for the first time) that the mod needs to be switched off whilst building.

 

[Christos]

So for accuracy use an ohm meter that should be available at hardware shops. Glad I'm not 100% fussy. If I can get to 0.25 to 0.35 I am happy. Thanks for all the replies and comments guys. Awesome as always

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@Spydro I could never get a resistance read with a cheap Chinese meter until I used a fluke.
Cost half a kidney but I needed a reliable cat III meter anyways.

 

[M5000]

The Coilmaster 521 uses a 18650 and it's inconvenient to have to worry about a batt for it. As a base I don't like it that much because if the atty is not super tight it constantly moves. My screen and fire lght work intermittently. If you get another brand with an alternate power option it's probably worth a try but I wouldn't buy the Coilmaster tab. There is definitely no NEED for it and your tool kit should come with the basic one - it's usually cheaper to get the kit than buy everything separately anyway.

Just want to add that I use my Evic VTC Mini mostly and it's accurate enough. They go quite cheap and I would get a Evic VTwo and a 18650 for about the same price as the tab and a batt.

 

[KZOR]

Have had mine for about three months and used it less than 5 times ....... all in the first few weeks.
I just remove a battery (after in burnt myself of course and destroyed 3 Ni builds ) and build on a TC mod.
Will be doing the same once my Sheamus mech arrives. Do the build on a TC mod, test it and move it to the mech.

 

[Zebelial]

Have had mine for about three months and used it less than 5 times ....... all in the first few weeks.
I just remove a battery (after in burnt myself of course and destroyed 3 Ni builds ) and build on a TC mod.
Will be doing the same once my Sheamus mech arrives. Do the build on a TC mod, test it and move it to the mech.

Sweet. Luckily I'm only using a TC mod for now. Not interested in a mech mod... Yet

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[KZOR]

Not interested in a mech mod

Just wait till I get mine and send you a photo of the setup.

 

[Zebelial]

Sweet. Luckily I'm only using a TC mod for now. Not interested in a mech mod... Yet

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Lol oki doke

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[kev mac]

Point taken. Maybe one day when I'm big I'll try that but for now I'm good playing it safe. I'm still noobing around

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Use the cash for a new mod or tank perhaps?