Recently had an issue with 2 istick 100W mods were the unit flashes empty/low battery warning on the lcd display. Both units would also not turn on sometimes unless the charger was plugged in. Initially, I thought the batteries needed replacement, tried new batteries, same result.
With the units be out of warranty and having nothing to lose, I decided to open the units and have a look if there was any obvious problems. I did basic testing with a digital multi-meter to identify any shorts/damaged components. Everything looked fine.
I used some Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a tooth brush to clean the PCB just in case of any remaining eliquid spills/leakage that maybe causing a short or malfunction. Then, using a hot air smd station at about 300 degrees, I reflowed the components on the pcb at the lowest air flow setting. Be careful not to heat the components for more than 2 seconds at a time. The reflow process took me about 2 minutes. After 1 sided is heated, wait till it is warm then reflow the second side of the PCB. This is an intermediate/advance repair and requires patience and precision. Use Kapton (high temp polyamide tape) tape on any plastic components, lcd etc. to prevent damage or burning from the reflow.
The problem I have noticed with the istick 100W models is that the lead free solder used seems to be of poor quality and over time starts to form hairline cracks which causes failures. Also eliquid residue on the electronics can also cause malfunctioning.
Both mods work perfectly now after the reflow and cleaning process! Hope this helps someone who is experiencing similar frustrations!
With the units be out of warranty and having nothing to lose, I decided to open the units and have a look if there was any obvious problems. I did basic testing with a digital multi-meter to identify any shorts/damaged components. Everything looked fine.
I used some Isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a tooth brush to clean the PCB just in case of any remaining eliquid spills/leakage that maybe causing a short or malfunction. Then, using a hot air smd station at about 300 degrees, I reflowed the components on the pcb at the lowest air flow setting. Be careful not to heat the components for more than 2 seconds at a time. The reflow process took me about 2 minutes. After 1 sided is heated, wait till it is warm then reflow the second side of the PCB. This is an intermediate/advance repair and requires patience and precision. Use Kapton (high temp polyamide tape) tape on any plastic components, lcd etc. to prevent damage or burning from the reflow.
The problem I have noticed with the istick 100W models is that the lead free solder used seems to be of poor quality and over time starts to form hairline cracks which causes failures. Also eliquid residue on the electronics can also cause malfunctioning.
Both mods work perfectly now after the reflow and cleaning process! Hope this helps someone who is experiencing similar frustrations!