Fixing Sapor loose center post?

[Lingogrey]

Hi guys

I bought a mint condition Sapor from a fellow forum member about 2.5 weeks ago (when I got it from him it did not have the problem I'm about to describe).

I absolutely love this RDA, but the center post has now come loose (spinning when tightening the wires, as well as wiggling and moving side to side). It seems that the problem is that the Peek insulator block has worn out slightly (it still looks pretty much perfect, but fits a bit loosely around the positive post. This is also obvious in the sense that the post does not only spin and wiggle, but can also move up and down the insulator quite easily).

I would think that a simple fix would be to glue the post to the insulator, but I know that Superglue would be toxic. Can anyone recommend an adhesive that would both be safe (non-toxic) as well as be able to withstand the heat that the Peek is there for in the first place. Would some form of epoxy work?

Thanks!

 

[shaunnadan]

2 part epoxy

 

[shaunnadan]

did you check if you tighten the flat head on the 510 while holding the centre post in place ? sometime you get lucky and it tightens up

 

[Lingogrey]

did you check if you tighten the flat head on the 510 while holding the centre post in place ? sometime you get lucky and it tightens up

Thanks @shaunnadan ! I did - unfortunately doesn't help. I'll try the 2 part epoxy.

 

[shaunnadan]

Thanks @shaunnadan ! I did - unfortunately doesn't help. I'll try the 2 part epoxy.

test to see if you have continuity 1st before going through all of the struggle. sometimes its just dead

 

[Lingogrey]

test to see if you have continuity 1st before going through all of the struggle. sometimes its just dead

Thanks, luckily it still has

 

[Lingogrey]

@shaunnadan - Sorry for the stupid question, but would this do the trick? http://www.pratleyadhesives.com/diy-adhesives/pratley-1-2-3

 

[Nova69]

Mine is not as bad as you describe,I use my cutters to keep the post in place and tighten the screws.

 

[Lingogrey]

Mine is not as bad as you describe,I use my cutters to keep the post in place and tighten the screws.

Mine was also quite manageable with the second build I did about five days ago (that's when the problem first became noticeable). However, when I wanted to rebuild yesterday (.2 ohm alien claptons in there ate through my battery life with the power required - I'm not usually that diligent with replacing coils), it was quite bad

 

[Nova69]

Maybe it's time for a new one,if there is no fix.

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

 

[Lingogrey]

Maybe it's time for a new one,if there is no fix.

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

Haha, true - but I've just had this one for less than three weeks I would actually consider it since it has such great flavour and is almost completely leak proof. By searching for a fix last night (didn't seem like anybody considered just glueing it), it seems to be a relatively common issue with the Sapor though, and I don't want to buy a new one just to have the same issue after a few weeks. Would be awesome if some kind of Sapor / Velocity hybrid atty came out, I can't really see that center post spinning (Fishbone Plus, which I have, is closeish to that - but also quite different in many ways)

 

[shaunnadan]

@shaunnadan - Sorry for the stupid question, but would this do the trick? http://www.pratleyadhesives.com/diy-adhesives/pratley-1-2-3

I don't think so. I've used it for a few bits and bobs on cars and never had the greatest results. It doesn't harden enough and has like a gel type finish

Calling @johan for glue assistance, once more

 

[Lingogrey]

I don't think so. I've used it for a few bits and bobs on cars and never had the greatest results. It doesn't harden enough and has like a gel type finish

Calling @johan for glue assistance, once more

Thank you. When I Google 2 / two part epoxy in order to find where I can easily get hold of it (or when checking on Pratley's site), I don't really get a clear result

 

[Lingogrey]

This looks like the right stuff to me? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...pes/Products/~/Two-Part-Epoxy?N=6081606&rt=c3

I don't know what heat levels it would take to make halogen inhalation a concern, but I would guess the low halogen version might be safer just in case?

I can't find it on the 3M South Africa site though, so I hope it's readily available here

 

[johan]

I don't think so. I've used it for a few bits and bobs on cars and never had the greatest results. It doesn't harden enough and has like a gel type finish

Calling @johan for glue assistance, once more

http://www.pratleyadhesives.com/Cat...earchID=382655&ObjectID=9607384&ObjectType=27​

 

[Lingogrey]

View attachment 42747
http://www.pratleyadhesives.com/Cat...earchID=382655&ObjectID=9607384&ObjectType=27​

Thanks very much @johan !

 

[JakesSA]

Ja it's a weakness of the Sapor which has two insulators, split into two halves. I suspect the the top part is not true PEEK but perhaps some mixture as it does not have that solid brown colour as per the the bottom insulator which is 'true' PEEK. Given enough heat from a dry burn it seems to lose it's proper dimensions and from there the problem arises. A glue/epoxy may solve the problem but do ensure it can handle the heat ...

 

[Lingogrey]

Ja it's a weakness of the Sapor which has two insulators, split into two halves. I suspect the the top part is not true PEEK but perhaps some mixture as it does not have that solid brown colour as per the the bottom insulator which is 'true' PEEK. Given enough heat from a dry burn it seems to lose it's proper dimensions and from there the problem arises. A glue/epoxy may solve the problem but do ensure it can handle the heat ...

Thank you @JakesSA

 

[snowman123]

Hi guys

I bought a mint condition Sapor from a fellow forum member about 2.5 weeks ago (when I got it from him it did not have the problem I'm about to describe).

I absolutely love this RDA, but the center post has now come loose (spinning when tightening the wires, as well as wiggling and moving side to side). It seems that the problem is that the Peek insulator block has worn out slightly (it still looks pretty much perfect, but fits a bit loosely around the positive post. This is also obvious in the sense that the post does not only spin and wiggle, but can also move up and down the insulator quite easily).

I would think that a simple fix would be to glue the post to the insulator, but I know that Superglue would be toxic. Can anyone recommend an adhesive that would both be safe (non-toxic) as well as be able to withstand the heat that the Peek is there for in the first place. Would some form of epoxy work?

Thanks!

Have you managed to get this fixed? I have a similar issue with another tank.

 

[Lingogrey]

Did you manage to fix the issue?

I did manage to fix it for about a day or two (using the two part epoxy and following all the instructions on the 'manual' - gluing the square peek insulator to the centre post and letting it dry for 24 hours). It held up fine when I installed 3 mm ID 7 wrap each 24 G Kanthal coils and worked well and kept resistance for about a day and a half. Then the resistance started jumping however and I noticed that the positive post has moved again. Upon closer inspection, the epoxy had completely melted. It does say on the 'manual' that it is not recommended for temperatures above 95 Celsius, which the heat insulator of an atty obviously surpasses to quite an extent. It was worth a try and thanks to everyone for their advice! (I've ordered an authentic black and blue splatter Sapor - will go great with my black and cyan RX200 - for $ 14. Currently sitting at customs)

I hope you sort your tank problem out!

 

[snowman123]

Thanks for this. Most high temp adhesives and even uv curable adhesives outweigh the cost of getting another tank. Will just get a new tank. Safest option.