For The N00b
- Thread starter Alex
- Start date
All the devices are basically atomizers - you have coil that gets hot, and atomises the juice into vapor
But the original atomizers was basically just a coil with a mesh over, onto which you dripped
Then came the cartomizer - with is basically what you get in the cig-alikes - a thin tube, with a some filler material with gets pre-loaded with juice.
Clearomizer is just used for current generation of tank systems, as they usually have a clear tank section into which you can load juice. (You get a subsection of Top Coil Clearomizer/Bottom Coil/Dual Coil etc - but that basically is talking about where the coil sits)
Then you get the RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - you basically build your own coils with some wicking material and you drip in them (8-15 drops) - pretty much like the original atomiser - but you can rebuild them easily.
Than you get the RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - basically you build your own coils, but it comes with a tank system as well to hold juice
But the original atomizers was basically just a coil with a mesh over, onto which you dripped
Then came the cartomizer - with is basically what you get in the cig-alikes - a thin tube, with a some filler material with gets pre-loaded with juice.
Clearomizer is just used for current generation of tank systems, as they usually have a clear tank section into which you can load juice. (You get a subsection of Top Coil Clearomizer/Bottom Coil/Dual Coil etc - but that basically is talking about where the coil sits)
Then you get the RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - you basically build your own coils with some wicking material and you drip in them (8-15 drops) - pretty much like the original atomiser - but you can rebuild them easily.
Than you get the RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - basically you build your own coils, but it comes with a tank system as well to hold juice
Should I charge new efest batteries before first use? How long does this take? What are the chances of me short circuiting something by accident?
Also, can I remove that weird thing etched into the nemesis that I see on the pics? I'm not one for details like that, I like things plain and simple, minimalist design. Or can I replace that part of the tube?
Also, can I remove that weird thing etched into the nemesis that I see on the pics? I'm not one for details like that, I like things plain and simple, minimalist design. Or can I replace that part of the tube?
You need to charge new batteries, as they are not fully charged from the factory to increase "shelf life" Most battery manufacturers specify that a battery must be discharged to 40% before long term storage.
If its a clone Nemesis, it's most probably screen printed and ordinary paint stripper or a couple of seconds on a buffing wheel will take care of that.
Don't know what equipment you are using - if you rebuilding coils - then it's pretty easy to create short circuits - you are basically working with a open wire, so there's no insulation, which means if it touches the something it shouldn't then you create a short.
Always better to test it on a Ohm meter or a mod with short circuit protection before putting it on a mech mod - and do this everytime you open the coil to re-wick
I have a question. I got a new aspire ET-S a few days ago. And its working like a dream. But ive noticed that as soon as the liquid level drops to less than a third, my tank starts gurgling.But if i fill it up and clean it out the gurgling stops. Any idea why this is happening or what i could do to prevent it? Its got a bottom vertical coil in if that makes any difference?
I have not used an et-s. My mini aspire nautilus does not have that problem - can vape it bone dry. Found this for you here:
Atomizer: What to do if it is gurgly?
Atomizer sometime can get a little too much eLiquid inside - they can become gurgly: this is normal and can be fixed easily
- Remove and clean the mouth piece as well as the battery connection (if necessary) and place your atomizer over a paper towel.
- Tip your Atomizer upside down (bottom up) and make sure the liquid is below the coils - this is to make sure we do not create too much pressure inside the atomizer when blowing into it (next step).
- Blow hard into the air hole (usually where the connection threads are) to remove any excess liquid from the air chamber.
- Clean the atomizer mouth piece section (some eLiquid should come out).
- Now your atomizer should work perfectly again without any more gurgle.
Thanks andre. That was an intresting read. I havent been able to find anything on the ET-S on the forum tho. I can do a review on it in a few days once ive gotten to know more of its quirks
Ok. So ive followed the instructions step for step. And i get 4 - 5 great vapes and the gurgling starts again. I filled it up completely. Repeated the process and the gurgling is gone. So now im wondering. How exactly does the vacuum inside the tank work? And then also could it be the seal on the coil that goes up against the centre tube that could start leaking if the vacuum drops? Or is it possible that the liquid is actually pulling through the coil faster than it is atomizing? And if so would covering one of the wicking holes on the coil with something solve this?
Hello and welcome to ecigssa @Hash Punk
what juice are you using ? my guess could be that your juice is too thin ? i had the same issue with a pro tank 2 back then when i used commercial tanks.
what juice are you using ? my guess could be that your juice is too thin ? i had the same issue with a pro tank 2 back then when i used commercial tanks.
Im using 50 / 50 pg/vg juice. But it works perfectly while its filled up. All the juice i have right now is 50/50 tho. So i wont be able to test your theory
The "continuous discharge rating" in amps is the standard specification for amp limits within the battery industry. It is a determination made by the manufacturer and represents the amp limit a battery can be safely used before it will fail.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor seems to have their own definition of what the pulse rating is to them.
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety.
The "pulse or burst" discharge rating is not a specification standard within the battery industry. Every manufacturer or vendor seems to have their own definition of what the pulse rating is to them.
A pulse discharge rating is any use above the continuous discharge rating. It is never safe and not within the intended operating parameters of the battery. You should not operate your device above the continuous rating if you can help it. The pulse rating is a condition in which the battery is on basically a buildup to failure. It is exceeding the sustainable and intended discharge rate of the battery. It is inappropriate for a consumer device to operate in the pulse range of its battery.
Which would be why we shouldn't rely on any pulse rating. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relies on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.
If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse and burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are already running the battery at the edge of it's limits (pulse), there is no margin of safety.
Excellent answer, thanks man
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