General noob questions

Noob Question (well not sure if it's really a noob question though, but redirect me if need be):

Not sure if the hype has died out already but what are the actual advantages of using Clapton coils (besides for it looking damn sexy)?

I've not used it in any of my personal devices, however, I did try it on a buddy's setup (Dual Clapton on Plume Veil V1 Clone with Sigelei 150watt running at 62watts and a Dual Clapton on Atty Cubed on same MOD and wattage) and I have honestly had a similar experience using a dual micro coil build on a Subtank mini on an iStick TC40W. The ramp up time was too long, hence only got a decent hit on the second pull, I have achieved better vapour production using single coil builds with a cotton cloud and the flavour was not spectacularly different. I can somewhat understand a fused Clapton (because juice can channel in there as well).

Would appreciate any advice before putting in the PT to build these for myself (My devices list: Kanger Subtank Mini, Plume Veil Clone, Atty Cubed, SMOK X CUBE 2, eLeaf iStick TC40W, [Kooper Plus end of the month hopefully])

Thanks
A clapton coil will give you much better flavor than a normal coil. I think it's because of its surface area, more juice soaks in so you always get a more flavorful vape than normal coils.
 
A clapton coil will give you much better flavor than a normal coil. I think it's because of its surface area, more juice soaks in so you always get a more flavorful vape than normal coils.

Thanks, but I'm sure there should be more to it than that. I mean, one can achieve larger surface area making 8 to 9 "normal" wraps and create the same resistance using different gauge wire and altering the diameters.
 
Thanks, but I'm sure there should be more to it than that. I mean, one can achieve larger surface area making 8 to 9 "normal" wraps and create the same resistance using different gauge wire and altering the diameters.
It's due to its capillary gaps, look at the design of the wire. The wire wrapped around the core has gaps. If you take the clapton wire and put juice on it, you'll see the juice just soaking in and going throughout the wire. With a normal coil this doesn't happen. I remember the CAT coil I had some time ago it was a 10 strand 32g core wrapped with 32g. Similar to clapton just with much more cores and lower resistance. With this coil I was washing it in the sink and when I put water on it, you could see the water running throughout the whole coil and not just through 1 place. A similar concept goes with the clapton.
 
It's due to its capillary gaps, look at the design of the wire. The wire wrapped around the core has gaps. If you take the clapton wire and put juice on it, you'll see the juice just soaking in and going throughout the wire. With a normal coil this doesn't happen. I remember the CAT coil I had some time ago it was a 10 strand 32g core wrapped with 32g. Similar to clapton just with much more cores and lower resistance. With this coil I was washing it in the sink and when I put water on it, you could see the water running throughout the whole coil and not just through 1 place. A similar concept goes with the clapton.

Makes sense. So you reckon its worth the PT then :)
 
Most definitely, there's definitely a better flavor from it. If you building the wire also might wanna try out the fused clapton. Same concept just with 2 core

In that case, gonna whip out the drill tomorrow. Thanks bro.
 
In that case, gonna whip out the drill tomorrow. Thanks bro.
Let me know how it goes, and make sure there's no hot spots on the wire (wire will have some places that don't fire). Just look out for these things and you'll be good to go.

What gauge wire are you using and which coil you building? What resistance you aiming for? What ID you going to use? What setup? Dual, single ?
 
Let me know how it goes, and make sure there's no hot spots on the wire (wire will have some places that don't fire). Just look out for these things and you'll be good to go.

What gauge wire are you using and which coil you building? What resistance you aiming for? What ID you going to use? What setup? Dual, single ?

Not entirely sure yet. I have Kanthal ranging from 24ga to 30ga. Might need to get 32 or 34ga for the inner. Will probably go for single first on the Atty Cubed. Not sure about resistance yet, but I doubt I will need more than 160watt (using X CUBE 2).

I think the first challenge is merely trying to make the Clapton or Fused Clapton strands (whipping out the Rip Trippers vids for some help :))
 
Not entirely sure yet. I have Kanthal ranging from 24ga to 30ga. Might need to get 32 or 34ga for the inner. Will probably go for single first on the Atty Cubed. Not sure about resistance yet, but I doubt I will need more than 160watt (using X CUBE 2).

I think the first challenge is merely trying to make the Clapton or Fused Clapton strands (whipping out the Rip Trippers vids for some help :))
Use 26g core and 32g wrapped around it. Try the clapton first. Use a 2.5mm ID aim for about 0.5 ohm... I would say 4/5 wraps.

By the way, update your xcube 2... it'll go to 180w
 
These ones?
It doesn't say what its made of though
0051f9554d7001f479967e38997b87e3.jpg
The o ring color determines the wire in the head,black= Kanthal
 
And light blue?

That part does not compute.. It looks like the Ni-200 CL coil, but it is 1.0 Ω.

Light blue or blue would usually indicate Ni-200, but at a much lower resistance.
The Ni-200 coils = blue, but should be 0.2 Ω.
Titanium coils = red o-rings, and are usually 0.4 Ω.
Kanthal have black (and white it seems) o-rings, and are either 1.0 Ω, or 0.5 Ω, like these at http://www.joyetech.us/coil/ego-one-cl-head-5pcs.html

Does the mod actually show what resistance it is reading it as ?
Does it have the Joyetech logo on it like the one below ? ( Ti & Ni ones on their site has it, but it's not shown on the Kanthal one.. )
JoyetechLogo.PNG
 
Ok so i need to buy coil goeters for my rda
I have the istick 30w and the turbo v1 rda.
What gauge kanthal do I get?
What dia coils will i be making?

Bluejeenz suggested 30g and 2.5mm 11wraps on dual coils for 1.5ohm per coil.

will the 30g not be to thin for a real noob like me to work with?
 
Hi @wiesbang - i am not familiar with the turbo RDA

But yes, 30g wire is quite thin and springy. It is more tricky to work with.
I would suggest perhaps go for 28g as well
 
@Kuhltkatz, Yes, the CLR eGo ONE coil is rebuildable. I've seen them online for around R50 - R80 each. A good deal.
 
I would suggest the you get yourself a tank with a rebuildable deck. Every review I've seen about the VTC Mini, the guys don't like the stock tanks. So, when I ordered my VTC Mini, I ordered mine without a tank.

The DIY coils and cotton is ALLLLLLOT cheaper than buying premade coils time and time again. Also, I heard that you can rebuild the CLR coils, but its a shlep?
 
I would suggest the you get yourself a tank with a rebuildable deck. Every review I've seen about the VTC Mini, the guys don't like the stock tanks. So, when I ordered my VTC Mini, I ordered mine without a tank.

The DIY coils and cotton is ALLLLLLOT cheaper than buying premade coils time and time again. Also, I heard that you can rebuild the CLR coils, but its a shlep?

I used to rebuild Twisp heads, which are not in general rebuildable... so I'm guessing the CLR coil should be a breeze. Not as easy as rebuilding an actual RBA deck, as you have to work with the exact wire size and amount of cotton, otherwise the lead wires don't sit nicely and can easily break connection. But, it is possible, it will probably just take you a few times to get it right, and even with the failed attempts will still be much cheaper than buying new coils.

Lots of great videos around for doing it!
 
Ok so i need to buy coil goeters for my rda
I have the istick 30w and the turbo v1 rda.
What gauge kanthal do I get?
What dia coils will i be making?

Bluejeenz suggested 30g and 2.5mm 11wraps on dual coils for 1.5ohm per coil.

will the 30g not be to thin for a real noob like me to work with?

I found the thinner stuff easier to work with, but even the #28 is springy. Im not sure how many wraps will fit without touching the sides, so Im playing it safe.
#30=10 wraps=1.5 ohms
#28=16 wraps=1.5 ohms
#28=10wraps=1 ohm
Yes some folk will tell you to use 6 wraps of #26 but the batt wont last long and you be blowing clouds like crazy, in all likelyhood the ignorant will be throwing buckets of water every time you vape.
Tell you what, I'll bring some #30 and #28 and we'll make coils of both, start out using the #30 and then once time for a rebuild swop in the #28 coils.
That way you can get a good idea of batt life vs flavour.
I can tell you that the 1 ohm coil will be a warmer vape and will use juice and battery life faster than the 1.5 ohm 10 wrapped #3.
At the end of the day its a question of vape satisfaction vs rebuild annoyance and one will find their personal ratio fairly soon. :)
 
I found the thinner stuff easier to work with, but even the #28 is springy. Im not sure how many wraps will fit without touching the sides, so Im playing it safe.
#30=10 wraps=1.5 ohms
#28=16 wraps=1.5 ohms
#28=10wraps=1 ohm
Yes some folk will tell you to use 6 wraps of #26 but the batt wont last long and you be blowing clouds like crazy, in all likelyhood the ignorant will be throwing buckets of water every time you vape.
Tell you what, I'll bring some #30 and #28 and we'll make coils of both, start out using the #30 and then once time for a rebuild swop in the #28 coils.
That way you can get a good idea of batt life vs flavour.
I can tell you that the 1 ohm coil will be a warmer vape and will use juice and battery life faster than the 1.5 ohm 10 wrapped #3.
At the end of the day its a question of vape satisfaction vs rebuild annoyance and one will find their personal ratio fairly soon. :)
Awesome thanx bud
I will bring along my portable battery pack just incase lol

I just placed my first vape order for some kanthal and a coil build jig from vapers corner...free shipping FTW
 
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