Help Needed (Evic Mini)

[E.T.]

Finally got a battery, and have some Ijust2 0.5 ohm Ti coils.

The problem is, I have only used Ijust2 batteries and a few vv twist style batteries a while back. And have never used Ti coils or Temp control

I read the manual, and can get to all the settings.

But I absolutely have no clue what I am doing.

can someone give me a "base" setting to use on these coils, that produces a thick warmish vape.

temp setting as well as the power setting, it is currenty on 235c and 35w

 

[Nailedit77]

Finally got a battery, and have some Ijust2 0.5 ohm Ti coils.

The problem is, I have only used Ijust2 batteries and a few vv twist style batteries a while back. And have never used Ti coils or Temp control

I read the manual, and can get to all the settings.

But I absolutely have no clue what I am doing.

can someone give me a "base" setting to use on these coils, that produces a thick warmish vape.

temp setting as well as the power setting, it is currenty on 235c and 35w

I am in the same boat, bought some ss wire to use tc... Never worked out for me, kept getting errors so I went back to normal kanthal. I would love to get more info on the whole tc setup as well.

 

[E.T.]

I am in the same boat, bought some ss wire to use tc... Never worked out for me, kept getting errors so I went back to normal kanthal. I would love to get more info on the whole tc setup as well.

I am on stock coils, don't think I will be any good

I am in the same boat, bought some ss wire to use tc... Never worked out for me, kept getting errors so I went back to normal kanthal. I would love to get more info on the whole tc setup as well.

At least you can build coils, I am totally clueless

 

[OnePowerfulCorsa]

The web says max is 60 watts with those coils so try from 350F until you like it.

 

[Lingogrey]

Hi @E.T.

I'm not an expert on Temp Control. For a very thorough and excellently written introduction to TC I would recommend reading @Ezekiel 's guide (there's a link to it at the bottom of his signature). For now, your wattage and temp sounds quite reasonable to me. Play around with the ratio of wattage to temp by lowering the temp until it goes into temp protection too fast for your liking and gives you a sudden very weak vape; then gradually raise the temp until you find that it gives you a relatively consistent vape. If that vape is not as "thick and warmish" as you would like, raise the wattage gradually to where your initial vape is where you would like it (but where it suddenly 'cuts off' after a short while due to temp protection) and restart the process of gradually raising your temp until you get a relatively consistent vape at the higher wattage.

Two things:
a) Make sure your coil resistance is locked when the coil is at room temperature. Take your tank of the mod and let it 'rest' for at least 10 minutes or so and then reattach to the mod. Before doing that, press the fire button so that the mod gives you a "no atomizer" reading (I have found that if I don't do that, the mod often does not 'request' info on whether a new coil is attached). The mod will give you the "new coil up, same coil down" message, where you must then press the wattage up button to confirm. In some instances it doesn't do that - then you can simply press the fire button three times, go to the coil resistance by pressing the down button twice and lock by pressing the up button (a little lock sign will appear next to the ohm reading)
b) Be very mindful of the possibility of your mod jumping out of TC mode into wattage mode. My VTC Mini VERY seldom does this with Stainless Steel, which is luckily not a problem in that case. However, one does not want to vape in wattage mode with Ti or Ni (my Koopor Mini used to jump into wattage very occasionally with Ti and I had to watch this at first, so as not to just carry on mindlessly vaping. Once you get used to TC, you can immediately feel the difference, but right at the start it can be a risk)

Edit - Link to Ezekiel's guide added: http://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/

 

[Greyz]

I started out on an eVic and quickly latched onto TC, there are a few very good threads and posts by @Ezekiel on TC you guys might want to do a search for his threads and posts. I promise you that even the seasoned TC user can learn from him.

The way I ventured into TC was simply by starting at 200c and then working my way up the temp range till I found a temp that worked for that juice and that coil. There is no set highest or lowest temp to use, it all comes down to personal taste. When starting out I preferred a cooler vape and never went over 220c. Now if I choose to do TC I set it 280-300c - but this all depends on the juice as well. Fruity vapes, for me prefer a lower temp, and for bakery type vapes a higher temp vape.
Now your probably saying yeah thats all good but what wattage should I set the eVic on. Well the answer is another that's not easily answered and varies from person to person.
I use wattage to determine how fast I would like the coil to heat up, ie. ramp time. Basically a 0.5ohm coil vaped at 15W will take 2seconds before it's hot enough to start producing vapor. The same coil at 30W will need 1 second before it's hot enough to produce vapor. (plz dont quote me on this, all figures are purely for exhibition purposes). Some like a slow ramp up while other's like a fast ramp up. If using stock coils to do TC, never set you wattage higher than the max your coil can handle.
Fried a Cubis 0.5ohm on the RX, after messing around with different firmware, I attached my Cubis which I was testing TC out on and sent 200W to the coil in TC mode. TC unfortunately was not fast enough to cut the watts before the coil burnt. Lesson learnt, after upgrade always check wattage!

I hope this helped @E.T. and @Sickboy77. It's not perfect but it's how I basically go about finding the right TC setting to use. I don't think I need to state the obvious but YMMV.

 

[E.T.]

Hi @E.T.

I'm not an expert on Temp Control. For a very thorough and excellently written introduction to TC I would recommend reading @Ezekiel 's guide (there's a link to it at the bottom of his signature). For now, your wattage and temp sounds quite reasonable to me. Play around with the ratio of wattage to temp by lowering the temp until it goes into temp protection too fast for your liking and gives you a sudden very weak vape; then gradually raise the temp until you find that it gives you a relatively consistent vape. If that vape is not as "thick and warmish" as you would like, raise the wattage gradually to where your initial vape is where you would like it (but where it suddenly 'cuts off' after a short while due to temp protection) and restart the process of gradually raising your temp until you get a relatively consistent vape at the higher wattage.

Two things:
a) Make sure your coil resistance is locked when the coil is at room temperature. Take your tank of the mod and let it 'rest' for at least 10 minutes or so and then reattach to the mod. Before doing that, press the fire button so that the mod gives you a "no atomizer" reading (I have found that if I don't do that, the mod often does not 'request' info on whether a new coil is attached). The mod will give you the "new coil up, same coil down" message, where you must then press the wattage up button to confirm. In some instances it doesn't do that - then you can simply press the fire button three times, go to the coil resistance by pressing the down button twice and lock by pressing the up button (a little lock sign will appear next to the ohm reading)
b) Be very mindful of the possibility of your mod jumping out of TC mode into wattage mode. My VTC Mini VERY seldom does this with Stainless Steel, which is luckily not a problem in that case. However, one does not want to vape in wattage mode with Ti or Ni (my Koopor Mini used to jump into wattage very occasionally with Ti and I had to watch this at first, so as not to just carry on mindlessly vaping. Once you get used to TC, you can immediately feel the difference, but right at the start it can be a risk)

Edit - Link to Ezekiel's guide added: http://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/

Hi @E.T.

I'm not an expert on Temp Control. For a very thorough and excellently written introduction to TC I would recommend reading @Ezekiel 's guide (there's a link to it at the bottom of his signature). For now, your wattage and temp sounds quite reasonable to me. Play around with the ratio of wattage to temp by lowering the temp until it goes into temp protection too fast for your liking and gives you a sudden very weak vape; then gradually raise the temp until you find that it gives you a relatively consistent vape. If that vape is not as "thick and warmish" as you would like, raise the wattage gradually to where your initial vape is where you would like it (but where it suddenly 'cuts off' after a short while due to temp protection) and restart the process of gradually raising your temp until you get a relatively consistent vape at the higher wattage.

Two things:
a) Make sure your coil resistance is locked when the coil is at room temperature. Take your tank of the mod and let it 'rest' for at least 10 minutes or so and then reattach to the mod. Before doing that, press the fire button so that the mod gives you a "no atomizer" reading (I have found that if I don't do that, the mod often does not 'request' info on whether a new coil is attached). The mod will give you the "new coil up, same coil down" message, where you must then press the wattage up button to confirm. In some instances it doesn't do that - then you can simply press the fire button three times, go to the coil resistance by pressing the down button twice and lock by pressing the up button (a little lock sign will appear next to the ohm reading)
b) Be very mindful of the possibility of your mod jumping out of TC mode into wattage mode. My VTC Mini VERY seldom does this with Stainless Steel, which is luckily not a problem in that case. However, one does not want to vape in wattage mode with Ti or Ni (my Koopor Mini used to jump into wattage very occasionally with Ti and I had to watch this at first, so as not to just carry on mindlessly vaping. Once you get used to TC, you can immediately feel the difference, but right at the start it can be a risk)

Edit - Link to Ezekiel's guide added: http://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/

Thank you @Lingogrey and @Greyz , I will give it a go tonight. Much appreciated

 

[Kalashnikov]

Are you using the built in Ti mode? What i do is set my device to 40W in temp mode. Then the temperature at about 215. That gives me a nice vape. Try and set it so you get temp protect like at least 1.5-2s into the vape then the device will regulate at your chosen degrees. In my case it starts at 40w. 2s later temp protect kicks in then it regulates between 20-30w to maintain it at 215C. Its pointless setting your temp too high and your watts at 30w. Basically then your device will fire at 30w continuously as it never reaches that temperature you set. So you might as well be vaping in power mode. So start off by setting your watts high. Even if you set it at 75w which is the max thats fine.I would suggest highest 50 tho incase the temp is not too accurate and you end up having a full on 75w pull.. Then just adjust your temperature down or upwards till you find where you like it. If you set your watts at high you never need to adjust your watts again if you wanna increase your temp.

 

[Greyz]

Up until today I still regret selling my eVic, I miss it everyday. I bought another small mod, Koopor mini, but it's just not the same
At least my old eVic is out there saving a life as we speak. But I made a point that I will own the eVic mini's successor!

 

[Kalashnikov]

Also google for the tcr value for TI then you can set the tcr value and use that instead of Ti mode. For instance i use ss316 wire. But when i use the device in ss316 mode. My vapor is boiling hot at 135C which does not sound accurate considering it starts from 100C. Now i use tcr mode with a value of 0000088. Now it will only be boiling hot 240C upwards. Which makes more sense. So try out TCR modes as i think you can get a more accurate temperature that route than Ti mode if you think its buggy.

Here is the values
https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/3xq9qr/vtc_mini_tcr_values/

TI is 366 so in your tcr menu set the last 3 digits to 366. Then try it in that mode instead of TI

 

[Ezekiel]

Finally got a battery, and have some Ijust2 0.5 ohm Ti coils.
The problem is, I have only used Ijust2 batteries and a few vv twist style batteries a while back. And have never used Ti coils or Temp control
I read the manual, and can get to all the settings.
But I absolutely have no clue what I am doing.
can someone give me a "base" setting to use on these coils, that produces a thick warmish vape.
temp setting as well as the power setting, it is currenty on 235c and 35w

Hi @E.T.

First of all, thanks for all the tags guys. Your comments are (as always) spot on. But unfortunately, my guide (at this stage) is quite advanced. While I've been meaning to write a "starter" guide for a long time, I unfortunately haven't had the time. So before you dig into that over-long and conceited mini-thesis, I suggest doing things one at a time. Try to get TC working first, before getting it to give you a good, thick and warmish vape.

First-off, I also have a EVic-VTC Mini, and I love using Ti coils. I unfortunately cannot comment on the stock coils though, as I also only build my own. I used nickel stock coils for a while on a Subtank Mini, and what I found was that, occasionally, you will get a bad coil, and it will mess up some of the TC stuff. For now, I assume you have a new one installed, but maybe try another one (although keep the one you have for now - don't throw it away).


First things first.

1) Prime the coil. In other words, gently squirt some juice on the coil directly (if you can see it), or on the wicking holes (usually on the side). You should be used to this coming from other coils, but it is just as important to TC. Alternatively, fill the tank + coil with juice, let it sit for about half-an-hour, and take a few 'dry' drags (in other words, don't connect it to the mod - but suck air through it). This will make sure that all the cotton inside is saturated with juice, and will help with the initial setup. Put the atomizer somewhere aside, and don't vape on it - it should be cooled to room temperature before you connect it (more on this later).

2) DON'T connect your atomizer to the mod. First, make sure the mod is on the correct setting. I assume you already know how to do this, but I'm going to write it down anyway. Press the fire button three times - this will get you into the menu, and you will see the first line (usually the current material) flashing. Press right until the "Titanium" setting is selected. (If you can't find it, you need to update the firmware on your mod - you should be able to figure out how with a Google search, or otherwise send me a PM.) Once found, press the Left button. The next line (Power output) should now be flashing. We'll sort this out a bit later, but for now, a safe bet is usually 35W. It will probably be too little, but should be ok initially just to help you figure out what is happening. When changing the power, (depending on your firmware) you can usually only go up, so if you start at 45W, you'll have to take it all the way to 75W and then again from 0 W to get to 35W. Once you have this setting at 35 W, press fire once, and it should take you out of the menu.

3) Press the fire button once. It should say "Atomizer error" or "Atomizer not found" or something totally obvious like that. Great. As @Lingogrey said, this actually makes sure it knows that their isn't actually currently an atty connected, and it will make sure to check for one when you connect it (as well as measure the resistance, etc.)

4) Connect the (cooled) atty. Once you've tightened it down, it should show the actual resistance of the atty. Check whether this is more or less the same resistance as indicated on the packaging or coil. In other words, if it says it should be a 0.25 ohm coil, and your atty is reading anywhere between 0.22 or 0.28 ohm, you're good to go. We'll see about getting accurate resistance later, but for now, we just want it to work. If it is very far out, you have a connection problem somewhere. Troubleshooting this for a stock coil is one out of three problems: a) The 510 connection (in other words, the connection from your atty to the EVic). Tighten/untighten your atty very slowly and watch the resistance. If it changes with each turn (in other words, it ranges from 0.1 to 0.5 ohm, in the 0.25 ohm example), then your atty and mod isn't making a good connection. Try cleaning both connections with a tissue, or an earbud. Alternatively, if the iJust2 tank can adjust its 510 pin, do that (I don't own one so don't know). b) The coil and tank has a bad connection. Try tightening or untightening the coil from the tank - too tight can be just as bad as too loose! Finally, c) - its a bad coil. Try another one and see if the connection is better (in other words, it is closer to the indicated ohms on the packaging).

5) If it doesn't show the resistance immediately, try hitting the fire button once. It might ask "Is this a new coil?" and then just hit "Right" to say "Yes, this is a new coil". Lovely dialogue with your inanimate mod, and they said vaping is physically and mentally healthy. Whatever.

6) Set the temperature to 200 °C (or 390 °F - if you take it all the way down to 0 °F and then continue lower, you should get to Celcius.)

7) Right! Now we are ready to vape. However, turn your mod so that you can see the screen - you can even flip the screen so that you can read it better (I think, while locked, it is something like keeping both left and right buttons in for 5 seconds - but check the manual). Remember, first figure out how it is working, before getting it perfect!

8) Take a vape for a second or two, but watch the screen. If the connection is perfect (either between the atomizer and the mod or the atomizer and the coil), you should see:

a) The temperature slowly rising
b) The wattage initially constant, at 35W
c) The resistance of the coil increasing

Then, when the temperature is close to 200 °C, you should see the following:

a) The temperature staying constant, as well as flashing "Temperature protected"
b) The wattage decreasing from 35W
c) The resistance of the coil staying constant

If you don't see anything of the sort, then post what is happening and we'll try to figure it out! However, you might have had one of three problems:

a) The atomizer made a "popping" sound, followed by practically no vapour. This means that the power was waaaay too high - in an instant the temperature of the coil increased way higher than 200 °C, and you're mod tried to compensate by reducing the power - to practically nothing. Try decreasing the power in 5W steps.

b) The temperature stayed super low, not really increasing all that fast. While this could mean other problems as well, most likely it means just the opposite of (a) - you're wattage is too low, so try upping it in 5W steps.

c) It starts to show temperature... but then it drops, and shows you power instead (usually 35W). This means that the mod thinks you don't have a TC wire inside, so it (very conveniently) drops out of TC and goes back to normal power mode. If this happens (and you are super sure of the material inside your coil... just saying, it happens occasionally, present company included), then it is most likely a connection issue... so do all of the initial steps of checking the connection or coil again.

But if everything worked fine, and you produced some vapour, and actually hit the 200 °C temp limit, then lets quickly discuss what happened, before we try to optimize it!

So lets break it down quickly:

Initially, your mod fires at 35 W. Titanium wire, when heated, increases in resistance - which is why initially, the resistance increases. The increase in resistance isn't random, but semi-linear - which means we can (sort-off) correlate it with the temperature of the coil. So the mod calculates, based on the increase in resistance, what the increase in temperature is, and displays that back to you. All the while, it will keep firing 35W to the atty.

When it is close to the temperature limit (usually round about within 10 °C), it will slowly start dropping the power, so that the overall increase in heating slows down, and eventually stops - in order to keep the temperature constant.

In principle, very simple. If we want it to increase quicker, we increase the power. If we want it to be overall hotter, we increase the final temperature.

Now, a little thing I've noticed. With (especially) Titanium coils, I find that if it heats up too quickly and hits the temperature limit almost instantly, it drops the power directly afterwards to very little. So generally speaking, I have found that I like vaping on titanium to increase its temperature at a moderate pace, with the temperature limit only serving as a soft "ceiling" - which prevents it from becoming too hot or giving me dry hits, but otherwise doesn't influence my vape too much so that it seems almost like I'm vaping on Kanthal.

So, an easy way to figure out your sweet spot, is to go to the extremes. Take your temperature to about 280 °C (~540 °F). Any higher, and your cotton might burn (it should only be higher than 300 °C, when its wet, but your accuracy on your mod/setup might be slightly off). Now, take a longish vape. You'll not likely get any burning (and if you do, drop your temp 10 °C at a time). Was that vape satisfactory? Most likely it was a bit weak, and didn't come close to the 280 °C temp limit. So up your wattage a bit - either 5, 7.5 or 10 W at a time. Now take a vape again. When it starts to become quite hecticly hot, then you've hit a nice power level for your coil. Once you have this, you can start dropping the temperature limit. Go lower by 5 °C at a time until the vape is at the level you want it. This way, you'll get a nice vape in terms of power output, but without it becoming too hot or giving you a dry hit.

Now, if you have it at between 280 °C and 310 °C and a) you don't taste any dry hits, nor b) is it a very powerful vape, it means that your accuracy of your TC setup is a bit off. This will depend on one of three things:

a) Connection issues (again - this can really mess up your vaping!)
b) Inaccurate initial ohm (usually the culprit)
c) Inaccurate TCR value (occasionally the culprit, but usually for rebuilders)

(a) by now you know how to handle. (c) I'll explain if you really insist, since it is a bit more complex (although you can dig in my guide for it). That leaves us with (b) - inaccurate initial ohms.

As you now know, the mod measures your initial resistance and relates how the coil's temperature increases when the coil's resistance increases. But therefore, it needs the exact initial resistance. Therefore, when you connect your atty (especially after you've hit the fire button when no coil was connected) the first time, the mod measures the resistance and assumes that the atty is at room temperature (20 °C, for some unknown US-centric reason). So if your coil is at 0.25 ohms at 20 °C, and it increases from 0.25 ohms to 0.35 ohms as it heats from 20 to 200 °C, it means that if you connect a slightly heated coil (lets say 0.3 ohms), the mod will incorrectly think that it is cooled. When it heats now from 0.3 to 0.45 ohms, the mod thinks it is at 200 °C, when actually it is at 260 °C already. You can see how this will be a problem! Generally, the lower the ohm of the coil, the larger is its sensitivity on the initial cool ohms.

An easy, although sometimes annoying solution, is to connect your atty in the morning, when it is cooled. Currently (in PTA at least) its about 20 ° at 7:00 in the morning. Now you connect your atty, and get as accurate measurement of the cool resistance. Once it has been measured, you can lock the coil, as @Lingogrey explained - press fire 3 times, press left (3 times, I think) until the coil resistance is flashing, and press the right button - you'll see a lock icon appear. Now, you can connect a heated atty, whether it is from vaping or ambient temperature, and it will keep the original cooled temperature which you measured at 20 °C. (Of course, you can lock this at any time, as long as its cooled, but I have a thing about accuracy. In reality, the ~10 degrees difference during the day will not make such a big difference)

Anyway, hope it helps. If you have any other problems - or if it works, but just doesn't deliver - post your questions! TC can be a cow somedays. I spent 3 hours (!!!) on getting a TC build right this morning (fine... it was a bit complex... but either way). So it takes some time. But in principle, it is very easy to understand, and once you've got it working right, it kicks normal Kanthal vaping out of the water.


PS. sorry for the looong post. Hope I kept it straightforward enough.

 

[E.T.]

Hi @E.T.

First of all, thanks for all the tags guys. Your comments are (as always) spot on. But unfortunately, my guide (at this stage) is quite advanced. While I've been meaning to write a "starter" guide for a long time, I unfortunately haven't had the time. So before you dig into that over-long and conceited mini-thesis, I suggest doing things one at a time. Try to get TC working first, before getting it to give you a good, thick and warmish vape.

First-off, I also have a EVic-VTC Mini, and I love using Ti coils. I unfortunately cannot comment on the stock coils though, as I also only build my own. I used nickel stock coils for a while on a Subtank Mini, and what I found was that, occasionally, you will get a bad coil, and it will mess up some of the TC stuff. For now, I assume you have a new one installed, but maybe try another one (although keep the one you have for now - don't throw it away).


First things first.

1) Prime the coil. In other words, gently squirt some juice on the coil directly (if you can see it), or on the wicking holes (usually on the side). You should be used to this coming from other coils, but it is just as important to TC. Alternatively, fill the tank + coil with juice, let it sit for about half-an-hour, and take a few 'dry' drags (in other words, don't connect it to the mod - but suck air through it). This will make sure that all the cotton inside is saturated with juice, and will help with the initial setup. Put the atomizer somewhere aside, and don't vape on it - it should be cooled to room temperature before you connect it (more on this later).

2) DON'T connect your atomizer to the mod. First, make sure the mod is on the correct setting. I assume you already know how to do this, but I'm going to write it down anyway. Press the fire button three times - this will get you into the menu, and you will see the first line (usually the current material) flashing. Press right until the "Titanium" setting is selected. (If you can't find it, you need to update the firmware on your mod - you should be able to figure out how with a Google search, or otherwise send me a PM.) Once found, press the Left button. The next line (Power output) should now be flashing. We'll sort this out a bit later, but for now, a safe bet is usually 35W. It will probably be too little, but should be ok initially just to help you figure out what is happening. When changing the power, (depending on your firmware) you can usually only go up, so if you start at 45W, you'll have to take it all the way to 75W and then again from 0 W to get to 35W. Once you have this setting at 35 W, press fire once, and it should take you out of the menu.

3) Press the fire button once. It should say "Atomizer error" or "Atomizer not found" or something totally obvious like that. Great. As @Lingogrey said, this actually makes sure it knows that their isn't actually currently an atty connected, and it will make sure to check for one when you connect it (as well as measure the resistance, etc.)

4) Connect the (cooled) atty. Once you've tightened it down, it should show the actual resistance of the atty. Check whether this is more or less the same resistance as indicated on the packaging or coil. In other words, if it says it should be a 0.25 ohm coil, and your atty is reading anywhere between 0.22 or 0.28 ohm, you're good to go. We'll see about getting accurate resistance later, but for now, we just want it to work. If it is very far out, you have a connection problem somewhere. Troubleshooting this for a stock coil is one out of three problems: a) The 510 connection (in other words, the connection from your atty to the EVic). Tighten/untighten your atty very slowly and watch the resistance. If it changes with each turn (in other words, it ranges from 0.1 to 0.5 ohm, in the 0.25 ohm example), then your atty and mod isn't making a good connection. Try cleaning both connections with a tissue, or an earbud. Alternatively, if the iJust2 tank can adjust its 510 pin, do that (I don't own one so don't know). b) The coil and tank has a bad connection. Try tightening or untightening the coil from the tank - too tight can be just as bad as too loose! Finally, c) - its a bad coil. Try another one and see if the connection is better (in other words, it is closer to the indicated ohms on the packaging).

5) If it doesn't show the resistance immediately, try hitting the fire button once. It might ask "Is this a new coil?" and then just hit "Right" to say "Yes, this is a new coil". Lovely dialogue with your inanimate mod, and they said vaping is physically and mentally healthy. Whatever.

6) Set the temperature to 200 °C (or 390 °F - if you take it all the way down to 0 °F and then continue lower, you should get to Celcius.)

7) Right! Now we are ready to vape. However, turn your mod so that you can see the screen - you can even flip the screen so that you can read it better (I think, while locked, it is something like keeping both left and right buttons in for 5 seconds - but check the manual). Remember, first figure out how it is working, before getting it perfect!

8) Take a vape for a second or two, but watch the screen. If the connection is perfect (either between the atomizer and the mod or the atomizer and the coil), you should see:

a) The temperature slowly rising
b) The wattage initially constant, at 35W
c) The resistance of the coil increasing

Then, when the temperature is close to 200 °C, you should see the following:

a) The temperature staying constant, as well as flashing "Temperature protected"
b) The wattage decreasing from 35W
c) The resistance of the coil staying constant

If you don't see anything of the sort, then post what is happening and we'll try to figure it out! However, you might have had one of three problems:

a) The atomizer made a "popping" sound, followed by practically no vapour. This means that the power was waaaay too high - in an instant the temperature of the coil increased way higher than 200 °C, and you're mod tried to compensate by reducing the power - to practically nothing. Try decreasing the power in 5W steps.

b) The temperature stayed super low, not really increasing all that fast. While this could mean other problems as well, most likely it means just the opposite of (a) - you're wattage is too low, so try upping it in 5W steps.

c) It starts to show temperature... but then it drops, and shows you power instead (usually 35W). This means that the mod thinks you don't have a TC wire inside, so it (very conveniently) drops out of TC and goes back to normal power mode. If this happens (and you are super sure of the material inside your coil... just saying, it happens occasionally, present company included), then it is most likely a connection issue... so do all of the initial steps of checking the connection or coil again.

But if everything worked fine, and you produced some vapour, and actually hit the 200 °C temp limit, then lets quickly discuss what happened, before we try to optimize it!

So lets break it down quickly:

Initially, your mod fires at 35 W. Titanium wire, when heated, increases in resistance - which is why initially, the resistance increases. The increase in resistance isn't random, but semi-linear - which means we can (sort-off) correlate it with the temperature of the coil. So the mod calculates, based on the increase in resistance, what the increase in temperature is, and displays that back to you. All the while, it will keep firing 35W to the atty.

When it is close to the temperature limit (usually round about within 10 °C), it will slowly start dropping the power, so that the overall increase in heating slows down, and eventually stops - in order to keep the temperature constant.

In principle, very simple. If we want it to increase quicker, we increase the power. If we want it to be overall hotter, we increase the final temperature.

Now, a little thing I've noticed. With (especially) Titanium coils, I find that if it heats up too quickly and hits the temperature limit almost instantly, it drops the power directly afterwards to very little. So generally speaking, I have found that I like vaping on titanium to increase its temperature at a moderate pace, with the temperature limit only serving as a soft "ceiling" - which prevents it from becoming too hot or giving me dry hits, but otherwise doesn't influence my vape too much so that it seems almost like I'm vaping on Kanthal.

So, an easy way to figure out your sweet spot, is to go to the extremes. Take your temperature to about 280 °C (~540 °F). Any higher, and your cotton might burn (it should only be higher than 300 °C, when its wet, but your accuracy on your mod/setup might be slightly off). Now, take a longish vape. You'll not likely get any burning (and if you do, drop your temp 10 °C at a time). Was that vape satisfactory? Most likely it was a bit weak, and didn't come close to the 280 °C temp limit. So up your wattage a bit - either 5, 7.5 or 10 W at a time. Now take a vape again. When it starts to become quite hecticly hot, then you've hit a nice power level for your coil. Once you have this, you can start dropping the temperature limit. Go lower by 5 °C at a time until the vape is at the level you want it. This way, you'll get a nice vape in terms of power output, but without it becoming too hot or giving you a dry hit.

Now, if you have it at between 280 °C and 310 °C and a) you don't taste any dry hits, nor b) is it a very powerful vape, it means that your accuracy of your TC setup is a bit off. This will depend on one of three things:

a) Connection issues (again - this can really mess up your vaping!)
b) Inaccurate initial ohm (usually the culprit)
c) Inaccurate TCR value (occasionally the culprit, but usually for rebuilders)

(a) by now you know how to handle. (c) I'll explain if you really insist, since it is a bit more complex (although you can dig in my guide for it). That leaves us with (b) - inaccurate initial ohms.

As you now know, the mod measures your initial resistance and relates how the coil's temperature increases when the coil's resistance increases. But therefore, it needs the exact initial resistance. Therefore, when you connect your atty (especially after you've hit the fire button when no coil was connected) the first time, the mod measures the resistance and assumes that the atty is at room temperature (20 °C, for some unknown US-centric reason). So if your coil is at 0.25 ohms at 20 °C, and it increases from 0.25 ohms to 0.35 ohms as it heats from 20 to 200 °C, it means that if you connect a slightly heated coil (lets say 0.3 ohms), the mod will incorrectly think that it is cooled. When it heats now from 0.3 to 0.45 ohms, the mod thinks it is at 200 °C, when actually it is at 260 °C already. You can see how this will be a problem! Generally, the lower the ohm of the coil, the larger is its sensitivity on the initial cool ohms.

An easy, although sometimes annoying solution, is to connect your atty in the morning, when it is cooled. Currently (in PTA at least) its about 20 ° at 7:00 in the morning. Now you connect your atty, and get as accurate measurement of the cool resistance. Once it has been measured, you can lock the coil, as @Lingogrey explained - press fire 3 times, press left (3 times, I think) until the coil resistance is flashing, and press the right button - you'll see a lock icon appear. Now, you can connect a heated atty, whether it is from vaping or ambient temperature, and it will keep the original cooled temperature which you measured at 20 °C. (Of course, you can lock this at any time, as long as its cooled, but I have a thing about accuracy. In reality, the ~10 degrees difference during the day will not make such a big difference)

Anyway, hope it helps. If you have any other problems - or if it works, but just doesn't deliver - post your questions! TC can be a cow somedays. I spent 3 hours (!!!) on getting a TC build right this morning (fine... it was a bit complex... but either way). So it takes some time. But in principle, it is very easy to understand, and once you've got it working right, it kicks normal Kanthal vaping out of the water.


PS. sorry for the looong post. Hope I kept it straightforward enough.

Thank you @Ezekiel and all the others I used all the info and think I found my sweetspot @280C and 58W. you guys are awesome

 

[Kalashnikov]

Thank you @Ezekiel and all the others I used all the info and think I found my sweetspot @280C and 58W. you guys are awesome

lol boiling hot liquid

 

[E.T.]

lol boiling hot liquid

Yip, but still not as hot at the normal Ijust2 0.3 Ohm coils on a Ijust2 mod, so i presume I am not doing is right yet

 

[Kalashnikov]

Yip, but still not as hot at the normal Ijust2 0.3 Ohm coils on a Ijust2 mod, so i presume I am not doing is right yet

Jeez you want it more hot...maybe just set it on 75W and max degrees then lol

 

[Greyz]

When I use TC I like it at 290c the watts only make a difference to how fast it heats up. The Vape is just right for me, warm but not hot.
My personal preference is that I like my bakery/pastry vapes at a warmer temp than I like my fruit vapes.

Nowadays I don't even use TC, I know my tanks so well I can just set watts and Vape, with the Vape only getting warm to hot towards the end of my pull.

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