How do you know its time to change a coil

IMO it's impossible to give a specific time. There are too many factors involved :

Type and quality of coil. Some claim that cheaper exotic coils don't last long
Juice used
amount of juice consumed vs days of use
high or low wattage etc

Some say that the ohms reading alters as the coil gets older.
 
I personally decide it’s time to change the coil when for the same power, juice and type of cotton I no longer get the same amount of flavour and vapour and obviously I must have the time for a pit stop ;)
 
I can visually see the coil ain't looking so good and I can taste the difference...
CoilWars 001.jpg
 
I replace every two weeks - personal preference. I use Wotofo Fused Clapton Ni80 spool and change every two weeks. Recently tried expensive exotic coils - same thing.

Sent from my WAS-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
I replace coils after 2 wicks have gone bad, sometimes after each wick.
 
When Chocmint Ice Cream liquid starts to taste like braaivleis
 
Lawrence A said:
Hi all

This thread got me thinking...

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/a-chemists-advice-dont-dry-burn-your-coil.t61167/

How do you decide its time to replace a coil as opposed to cleaning it?

Is there a way of quantifying when the coil needs to be replaced?
Click to expand...

This is an excellent question @Lawrence A
I tend to use my coils far longer than I should

The interesting thing I have observed is that the flavour degrades slowly. Doesn’t fall off a cliff suddenly. So I seldom notice when it’s time to change. Until I put a new coil in and it tastes much better. And I’m always pleasantly surprised.

At least that’s how it’s been for me
 
Hy,

Well sory for asking for help in here, dont know if this thread is right for this, I am realy a noob when it comes to rta and building your own coils, so I am using dicode resistherm nife30, some says dry burn, some says dont, well I did not dry burned it, than I found out that doing spaced coils are less prone to hot spots, I found information somewhere on dicodes site that you should build coil from 2.5mm diameter up to 3.5mm diameter, so I decided to go for middle, so I used 3mm screw to make evenly spaced coil 8 wraps, so first 10 coils were disaster, but I am stubborn and decided that I had to continue until I do it properly, so finally I did it, than I had to wick it, maybe I used to much wick, because as I was pulling trough I noticed that some wraps moved near each other, but stil it is spaced coil, and first day all went ok, during second day, I decided to check the coil, and I noticed that some wraps slightly changed the color, so can soneone help me with this, is this normal, is this what you call burnt coil, do I have to change it, or I can still use it
 
Fartumbo said:
Hy,

Well sory for asking for help in here, dont know if this thread is right for this, I am realy a noob when it comes to rta and building your own coils, so I am using dicode resistherm nife30, some says dry burn, some says dont, well I did not dry burned it, than I found out that doing spaced coils are less prone to hot spots, I found information somewhere on dicodes site that you should build coil from 2.5mm diameter up to 3.5mm diameter, so I decided to go for middle, so I used 3mm screw to make evenly spaced coil 8 wraps, so first 10 coils were disaster, but I am stubborn and decided that I had to continue until I do it properly, so finally I did it, than I had to wick it, maybe I used to much wick, because as I was pulling trough I noticed that some wraps moved near each other, but stil it is spaced coil, and first day all went ok, during second day, I decided to check the coil, and I noticed that some wraps slightly changed the color, so can soneone help me with this, is this normal, is this what you call burnt coil, do I have to change it, or I can still use it
Click to expand...
Dry burn is recommended because that's how you check for Hotspots, but use low watts when doing it 30w or less
 
Fartumbo said:
Hy,

Well sory for asking for help in here, dont know if this thread is right for this, I am realy a noob when it comes to rta and building your own coils, so I am using dicode resistherm nife30, some says dry burn, some says dont, well I did not dry burned it, than I found out that doing spaced coils are less prone to hot spots, I found information somewhere on dicodes site that you should build coil from 2.5mm diameter up to 3.5mm diameter, so I decided to go for middle, so I used 3mm screw to make evenly spaced coil 8 wraps, so first 10 coils were disaster, but I am stubborn and decided that I had to continue until I do it properly, so finally I did it, than I had to wick it, maybe I used to much wick, because as I was pulling trough I noticed that some wraps moved near each other, but stil it is spaced coil, and first day all went ok, during second day, I decided to check the coil, and I noticed that some wraps slightly changed the color, so can soneone help me with this, is this normal, is this what you call burnt coil, do I have to change it, or I can still use it
Click to expand...

Hi @Fartumbo,

It is normal for most wires to discolor when they are heated. That part should not be a concern.

From what I can see in the NiFe30 spec sheets, it contains at least 68.6% Nickel. It's also supposed to be used in TC mode, with a custom TCR of 4920 or 492 , depending on the format the mod expects. This is if you do not have a DNA mod where you can download the ESCRIBE TFR table.

Normally one would err on the safe side here due to the 'high' ~69% Nickel content, and not dry-burn it, but if you compare this to Ni80 which most people dry-burn, you realize that Ni80 contains more at 80% Nickel (and 20% Chrome). NiFe30, SS316 and Ni80 all contain Nickel. Kanthal is the only commonly used alloy wire that does not contain any Nickel. Ni200 and Titanium wire are not alloys and is typically pure Nickel and pure Titanium wires.

This article which is linked from a NiFe30 product page at https://www.stealthvape.co.uk/NiFe30-wire , also states:
"Regarding dry burning NiFe wire. It's mentioned on some sites that it's ok to dry burn this material and while it's clear that NiFe doesn't react to dry burning like Ni200 and Titanium we're cautious to recommend this at present."

I'm not sure how NiFe30 stacks up against the other wires, but all coils except Ni200 can be wound tight and 'strummed' to get rid of hot spots.
Ni200 is way too soft to man-handle and it's easiest to just wind a spaced coil when using it.
 
Thank you all for replies and help. Hahaha Ruwaid you made my day with this picture. Well I tried dryburning and I have a big sausage fingers and still do not have a feeling for timing so I tried dryburning 3 times and every time I destroyed coil. I am using dicode dani 25 and squape n duro mtl, so I am using this coil only in TC mode. Every day I am opening atomizer to check the coil, it slightly changed color, and only two wraps.But I think I made mistake as the coil it is 8 wraps and 0.44 ohm, so I put 28 wats and 170 °c and maybe it was to much, because I have same result with 15 wats on same temperature, ok only difference is time to reach the 170 °c but it is only two second slower, but I take longer puffs, which leads me to second question, when I was wicking I noticed that coil deformed, not too much only little bit, so can it be that this is too much of a wick, because as I was pulling the cotton trough I reached those two wraps that changed color and could not pull it more, but because it was already trough the coil, I just decided to leave it like that , so can it be that that spot acts as a choke point so it blocks the flow of the juice, because I had few dry hits, and it tastes like a s.......t.. I am using screw 3mm to make spaced coil, that is the only way I can do it. With coiling kit from coil master, I can not do nothing, because it is springy wire, so every time I fail, and I failed 10 times hshahaha, so if I want to make spaced or contact coil, it unwraps and some wraps are contact and some wraps are spaced, so here are the pictures, again thanks for helping, so as I am noob and this is my first coil, 11 times I tried and only one was ok, and this is that one, and it took me half an hour to make it, Does this looks ok. Again thank you all for helping20190912_061509.jpg 20190912_061509.jpg 20190912_061344.jpg 20190911_064923.jpg
 
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