Important: Mechanical Mod Safety

Boiled down to simple language "hybrid" here just denotes the mixing of two different stuffs, lithium and manganese. And IMR means exactly the same. So, presto: Hybrid = IMR. But, you could be right maybe Sony started using the term "hybrid" to market its then higher mAh. Eish, these marketing guys.
 
I have a question for the battery guru's out there. I recently purchased some AW IMR 18350's from one of our vendors on the forum, and on their website it says that they is rated at 16A. I have done some investigation on the matter, and I am lead to believe that the AW IMR 18350's are only rated at 6A.
I have asked the vendor if the information on their website is correct to which the answer was: "That's the 6 second burst limit. The actual amps is only 10A on both the 18350 and 18650"??.
Is it safe to presume that the ACTUAL amp limit is 6A, or is it in fact 10A for AW IMR 18350 batteries?
Rather safe than sorry!
 
hahaha, that bit confuzzled me also. when i did some googling i think i also came out with the 10 amp figure. would love some proper clarification on this. that and an 18350 that's got more mah than 700 would be nice and still rock on a mech mod

edit : darn yeah ok most sites telling me 6A for the little bats yes. still good but nothing compared to what the bigger ones can do
 
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I'm not the battery guru but, AW IMR 18350 700mA battery limits are as follows:
Continuous current: 6Amax
Burst current: 16Amax
Although you can use it on coils drawing up to 16A for very brief firing, what happens when the firing button on your mech is pressed by accident in a briefcase or in your pocket, will be a sorry site to see.
Rather be safe and don't exceed 6A as you rightly said @Spiri
 
Thanks @johan & @denizenx , I dont think I will be pushing these teeny weeny little guys above the "safe" 6Amp limit. @denizenx , I agree, I have been ogling those Efest 18350's since they have been posted on the forum... But my wallet, Eish, she says NO! (for this month at least)
 
Just as a matter of interest. How long do these AW IMR 18350 700mah batteries last you guys on your mech mods?
I would eppreciate if you give me a rough "guestimate" of hours and the resistance of your coil, and if it is heavy or moderate vaping.
 
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Spiri said:
Just as a matter of interest. How long do these AW IMR 18350 700mah batteries last (hrs) you guys on your mech mods?
I would eppreciate if you give me a rough "guestimate" of hours and the resistance of your coil, and if it is heavy or moderate vaping.
Click to expand...

1.2ohm coil, used in russian on a nemesis- lasts about 4-5 hours- thats with decent vaping (few deep hard long pulls every so now and then)

the main reason i bought it is coz the mods really look awesome in tiny mode
 
Spiri said:
Just as a matter of interest. How long do these AW IMR 18350 700mah batteries last (hrs) you guys on your mech mods?
I would eppreciate if you give me a rough "guestimate" of hours and the resistance of your coil, and if it is heavy or moderate vaping.
Click to expand...
Mine last for 2hrs of moderate vaping at 0.9ohms. Thats very close to the safe limit of the battery to. I personally wouldn't run lower than 0.9 on the 350.

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk
 
0.8 ohms for about two hours of heavy vaping here.

Ps. I've got the purple Efest 700mAh (10.5a)
 
Great thread for safe mech mod use.
Something that I've been wondering about as noob and don't see mentioned is how the battery should go into your MechMod.
Does it matter what way round you insert your battery into your mech mod?
Positive end (+) connecting to bottom switch OR positive to connect to top firing pin that connects to your Atty?
Does it matter which way round or not?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
not sure if it will really make a difference but just doing it the standard positive of battery closest to atty/dripper should keep you from ever putting your battery the wrong way in some other device :)
 
@Jimbo it doesn't make a difference if you don't go seriously sub-ohm. If you go <0.5 Ohm then surface area between battery and mech contacts become very important. The spring on the negative side will provide a better contact surface area than on the positive side and visa versa. I hope this answers your question. The tube type mechs are normally designed in such away that the positive side is closest to the 510 connector.
 
Greetings
I have just built my 1st ever dual parallel coil @0.2 ohms :) on my Tobh V2/Fury-S Mod with an Efest 18650 35A battery.
Why does my Mod get so hot ?
Is this normal due to the 0.2 ohms?

Please advice
:confused:
 
Mario said:
Greetings
I have just built my 1st ever dual parallel coil @0.2 ohms :) on my Tobh V2/Fury-S Mod with an Efest 18650 35A battery.
Why does my Mod get so hot ?
Is this normal due to the 0.2 ohms?

Please advice
:confused:
Click to expand...
Is the mod getting hot or the BATTERY as well?
 
Mario said:
Greetings
I have just built my 1st ever dual parallel coil @0.2 ohms :) on my Tobh V2/Fury-S Mod with an Efest 18650 35A battery.
Why does my Mod get so hot ?
Is this normal due to the 0.2 ohms?

Please advice
:confused:
Click to expand...
That is too low for that battery. The continuous discharge rating on those batteries is 20 Amps (spiking discharge is 35A). You are pushing out 21 Amps at 0.2 ohms. You run the risk of re-arranging your face. You need a Sony VTC battery.
 
Mario said:
@BhavZ just the Mod ...especially the fire button
Click to expand...
Heat transfer is normal in a mech mod when running such a low ohm.

However to be safe I would say double check that the coil is not touching the base or the cap of the atty.

But lets see what the more experienced guys say. Personally I think it could just be heat transfer but I do not have personal experience with such low ohms.
 
Mario said:
Greetings
I have just built my 1st ever dual parallel coil @0.2 ohms :) on my Tobh V2/Fury-S Mod with an Efest 18650 35A battery.
Why does my Mod get so hot ?
Is this normal due to the 0.2 ohms?

Please advice
:confused:
Click to expand...

I agree with @Andre's comments regarding the battery. Also check the condition of the inside of your firing button and thoroughly clean it. The contact areas (threads etc.) might be contaminated with carbon, dust etc. That will in turn create some resistance for the current path and will contribute to the heating up of your mech.
 
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