damn sorry man, missed a chunk of posts with pics, eish
damn sorry man, missed a chunk of posts with pics, eish
Now the only thing I need to have a look at is the part of the contact that was wrapped in some sticky isolation tape type stuff. I'm guessing it was done because of the metal-top bottle as opposed to the all silicone one. I'm hoping I can find some sort of electrical shrink-wrap tyoe of thing instead if putting some sticky tape over it again. Any suggestions? @Intuthu Kagesi? Don't think a battery wrap will shrink that much
You should be able to get some heat shrink tubing. Most hardware shops and even builders warehouse sell it.
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Found some in the garage, will just have to see if it shrinks enough or not...
That looks like one of the old school attempts to stop arcing ... there are many "broscience" methods some of which include a slot cut across the contact surface, and or utilising silicone grease, (which is an insulator 
) .... and then there's the proper way;
Placing a resistor and capacitor across the switch for DC ... the "back of a cigarette box calculation" is 1 mF per amp and for the resistor 0.5 ohms per volt, so assuming 4.2Volts @ 20Amps, you would require a resistor of 2 Ohms in series with a capacitor of 20 mF, and this would prevent arcing and or contact welding
) .... and then there's the proper way;Placing a resistor and capacitor across the switch for DC ... the "back of a cigarette box calculation" is 1 mF per amp and for the resistor 0.5 ohms per volt, so assuming 4.2Volts @ 20Amps, you would require a resistor of 2 Ohms in series with a capacitor of 20 mF, and this would prevent arcing and or contact welding
You could use silicone rubber, and if you gob on your finger, you can smooth it out nicely, or ... some suitable heatshrink, (remembering that most heatshink shrinks 50% max, so get something slightly less than twice the required shrunken size).
That should be perfect
That should be perfect
Will my trusty hairdryer generate enough heat for this as well?
That looks like one of the old school attempts to stop arcing ... there are many "broscience" methods some of which include a slot cut across the contact surface, and or utilising silicone grease, (which is an insulator
Placing a resistor and capacitor across the switch for DC ... the "back of a cigarette box calculation" is 1 mF per amp and for the resistor 0.5 ohms per volt, so assuming 4.2Volts @ 20Amps, you would require a resistor of 2 Ohms in series with a capacitor of 20 mF, and this would prevent arcing and or contact welding
View attachment 241750
jrrrrr, stop trying to un mech stuff ...lol
How long is a piece of string?
You may have to jippo the thermostat if it isn't hot enough
How long is a piece of string?
You may have to jippo the thermostat if it isn't hot enough
I have quite a long piece. At one point I tried to wrap an old air rifle's barrel to pimp it out, but then thought better of it due to the possibility of rust underneath the wrap. So I have more than enough to practice with.
I can't help it Victor
... I love Mechs aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand I like a few erm .... "safety features" built into mine In electronic terms, the use of passive components as I suggested for mechanical protection, is not considered automation
... I could have offered you an active circuit that arguably would have been better, (with a mosfet )
Cut off a short piece, (10mm?), of that heat shrink and hit it with your hairdryer, or bic lighter, to, see if it will shrink enough
Well done man
... That looks fantastic! (and you would have resolved your intermittent firing in the process )
Ive never owned one of these but if the contact looks silver it should be silver.
If I recall a few years ago there were copper plated contacts for some other mods that were silver coated but I suspect the plate in question is silver and just needs a good sanding to restore it to its original condition.
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