Noob questions about coils?

[AlexL]

hello everyone... ex pipe smoker been vaping for a few weeks now been playing around with some flavors have found my go to everyday juice.. for now... been on it for 2 weeks now .. eleaf pico melo3 tank running the 0.3ohm coil at 26 to 28 w gives me great clouds and brilliant flavor... but if i pull on the vape longer than say 7 seconds or so i start to get a burnt taste coming through .. is it possibly not wicking the juice quick enough to saturate the coil on these long pulls and drying hitting towards the end of the pull.. if i go up to 35w it tastes burnt even on a short tug..at 50w it is terrible even with a 1 second tug it tastes burnt.. then last night vapour production and flavor just dropped off fhe charts... is this an indication the coil needs replacement? . the coil sais its rated to 100w but at 35 w on a long pull i am getting a burnt taste already.. i have read reviews where guys claim to be vaping on these 0.3 ohm kanthal coils in the melo 3 at 80w comfortably...?? i am also keen on getting into building my own drippers.. coils etc and have been looking at the x2 by congrevape.. chasing flavor firstly then clouds... any recommendations... thanx guys

 

[Feliks Karp]

At 80 watts they probably arent taking 7 second pulls. Your instinct here on the cotton not wicking properly on such a long pull is probably correct. Low ohm coils take longer to heat up hence why youre taking such long drags, up the wattage and take shorter hits.

 

[AlexL]

At 80 watts they probably arent taking 7 second pulls. Your instinct here on the cotton not wicking properly on such a long pull is probably correct. Low ohm coils take longer to heat up hence why youre taking such long drags, up the wattage and take shorter hits.

thanks for the advice.. will try that

 

[Glytch]

My 0.3 ohm lasted me a few days only on straight lung hits averaging around 3 seconds at 35w

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[Feliks Karp]

My 0.3 ohm lasted me a few days only on straight lung hits averaging around 3 seconds at 35w

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Check if the stock coils have known air lock issues, some stock coils get these issues which prevent new juice from feeding the wick. Unless you're chain vaping the hell out of it, sounds to me like an air lock issue. @AlexL same advice to you if you dont come right on the higher power shorter hits, check if this is a known issue. 70+vg juices give some people issues on stock coils too.

 

[Glytch]

How do I deal with airlock issues? I sometimes notice a bubble of air coming out of the slits in the tank.

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[Feliks Karp]

How do I deal with airlock issues? I sometimes notice a bubble of air coming out of the slits in the tank.

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That can be air coming loose sometimes a sign of an airlock. There are a few posts on here on how people prime various "troublesome" coils. Sometimes loosening the top for a second or so will release airbubbles but my honest advice would be to get in to rebuilding, its way cheaper and you have control over the coils. If im not mistaken theres an RBA deck for this tank.

 

[Glytch]

That can be air coming loose sometimes a sign of an airlock. There are a few posts on here on how people prime various "troublesome" coils. Sometimes loosening the top for a second or so will release airbubbles but my honest advice would be to get in to rebuilding, its way cheaper and you have control over the coils. If im not mistaken theres an RBA deck for this tank.

Thanks @Feliks Karp. I've ordered a Vaporesso cCell 0.9 coil which should arrive next week. I also have high VG juice (80% plus) and the coils just don't seem to last. I've rebuilt one coil with disappointing results so I'm hoping the cCell will perform better.

 

[Feliks Karp]

Thanks @Feliks Karp. I've ordered a Vaporesso cCell 0.9 coil which should arrive next week. I also have high VG juice (80% plus) and the coils just don't seem to last. I've rebuilt one coil with disappointing results so I'm hoping the cCell will perform better.

80 VG juice is going to be problematic in most commercial coils, as it is very thick, so I think this is probably part of the issue here with the coils wicking, you'll need to give it sufficient time to prime as well as sufficient time to wick properly between hits. Have a look on here there seems to be an art to priming ceramic coils. I also vape 80+ VG juice another reason I gave up on stock coils. Honestly don't give up on rebuilding if one coil is borked, thats the beauty of rebuilding, at R100 for 10 metres of wire you can afford to fine tune what works for you, and if cotton burns you can just rewick instead of tossing the whole thing.

 

[ddk1979]

.
Twisp has 100% VG that I used in my clearo without a hint of a problem, but my nautilus mini struggles sometimes when I use 80%VG - strange.

.

 

[SAVaper]

.
Twisp has 100% VG that I used in my clearo without a hint of a problem, but my nautilus mini struggles sometimes when I use 80%VG - strange.

.

Interesting. I have only seen the 50/50 Twisp juices.

 

[Rob Fisher]

How do I deal with airlock issues? I sometimes notice a bubble of air coming out of the slits in the tank.

The bubbles you see coming out of the juice holes you really WANT to see! That means your coils is working just fine! Seeing no bubbles is when you worry.

 

[ddk1979]

Interesting. I have only seen the 50/50 Twisp juices.

They have approx 8 flavours. I bought the peach and it wasn't "thick" at all, just a little more viscous than the 50/50 juices.
Only realized since I've been on the forum that I had absolutely no problems vaping it in the clearo.
.

 

[AlexL]

thanks @Feliks Karp, @Glytch @Silver... will be looking into all the possibilities this week...i agree with @Silver you ideally would like to see bubbles coming into the tank it shows no airlock issue and that the wick is drawing up the juice and tranporting it to the coil. this action creates a slight vacuum in the tank.. that vacuum drawns air back into the tank through... ummm.... heres where i believe the problem occurs the air gets drawn into the tank through the same material that is feeding the juice to the coil, the wick... and that air travels through the wick and back through the coils juice feed port back into the juice tank, all this going on while juice is trying to go the other way to the coil.. this is like 2 way traffic up a one way street.... i wonder if this movement of the juice moving toward the coil the air being drawn back into the tank through the wicking material but in the opposite direction may be leading to a partially unsaturated coil.. picture it.. u hit the fire button and vape.. the wicking material becomes dryer and capillary action draws the juice from the tank towards the coil a slightly negative pressure is created in the tank as the fluid is drawn out.. as u fire up for the next big draw.. chain vape etc the coil fires and... momentarily.. glug.. glug.. a couple of air bubbles push themselves through the wicking material into the tank to equalise the pressure so instead of juice flowing towards the coil there are air bubbles going in the other direction pushing juice away from the coil this happens until the pressure in the tank equalises and the strength of the capillary action prevails and then juice bleeds back into the now dry wicking media and feeds the now overheated dry coil .... this is when the harsh burnt taste occours... i must say that i only have noticed the bubbles entering the tank when i vape quite a bit in one go.. if i jus casually vape i dont seem to notice many bubbles but when i vape it hard i can see numerous bubbles rushing in as the fluid is depleted.. going to test this by chain vaping and opening the tank to vent it between pulls... if no dry hitting and bubbles in the tank then u know its the vac in the tank while the air is being drawn in thats preventing the juice from being tranported to the coil .another factor i believe contributes to the dry hitting is that the juice once in the wick /coil vicinity gets warmed up and becomes less viscous, so it is able to flow quickly to the coil element and be vaped in the initail stages of the draw... then juice feed begins to be wicked from the tank which is at a lower temp and a higher viscosity the juice flow is slower to the coil than initailly.. this flow of juice that tapers off as the hit progresses paired with the characteristic of a sub ohm coil taking time to ramp up up work hand in hand to create a dry or scorched hit, i suspect rewicking the standard coil may also help to improve juice flow to the the coil element.. the wicking material i pulled out was rather tightly packed in there.. going to try temp sensing as well to see if it will fix this dry harsh hitting towards the latter stages of the pull... my 0.3 ohm coil gave fantastic taste and clouds for 2 weeks until i pushed it to 50W in a chain vaping session...just lost vapour production and tasted like welding i rekon it ran a bit dry so pulled it out and disected it... the cotton wick was black and the coil itself also black and has actually nearly melted through in two spots.. just made like 2 little blobs on the wire... notice how the coil is blackened up to the melted areas and then silver from thereon... got the 0.5ohm coil in now the burnt taste has gone but its not giving me the flavor or the vapour of the 0.3ohm coil... will be trying some of the vaperesso cCell coils.. some ni and ti coils to run temp sensing mode on the pico.. this aswell as i see a rebuildable coil head is available for the melo3... considering relegating the pico with a std 0.3 coil to my all day carry vape and purchasing a rx200...and a rebuildable dripper .... time to play...

 

[Andre]

thanks @Feliks Karp, @Glytch @Silver... will be looking into all the possibilities this week...i agree with @Silver you ideally would like to see bubbles coming into the tank it shows no airlock issue and that the wick is drawing up the juice and tranporting it to the coil. this action creates a slight vacuum in the tank.. that vacuum drawns air back into the tank through... ummm.... heres where i believe the problem occurs the air gets drawn into the tank through the same material that is feeding the juice to the coil, the wick... and that air travels through the wick and back through the coils juice feed port back into the juice tank, all this going on while juice is trying to go the other way to the coil.. this is like 2 way traffic up a one way street.... i wonder if this movement of the juice moving toward the coil the air being drawn back into the tank through the wicking material but in the opposite direction may be leading to a partially unsaturated coil.. picture it.. u hit the fire button and vape.. the wicking material becomes dryer and capillary action draws the juice from the tank towards the coil a slightly negative pressure is created in the tank as the fluid is drawn out.. as u fire up for the next big draw.. chain vape etc the coil fires and... momentarily.. glug.. glug.. a couple of air bubbles push themselves through the wicking material into the tank to equalise the pressure so instead of juice flowing towards the coil there are air bubbles going in the other direction pushing juice away from the coil this happens until the pressure in the tank equalises and the strength of the capillary action prevails and then juice bleeds back into the now dry wicking media and feeds the now overheated dry coil .... this is when the harsh burnt taste occours... i must say that i only have noticed the bubbles entering the tank when i vape quite a bit in one go.. if i jus casually vape i dont seem to notice many bubbles but when i vape it hard i can see numerous bubbles rushing in as the fluid is depleted.. going to test this by chain vaping and opening the tank to vent it between pulls... if no dry hitting and bubbles in the tank then u know its the vac in the tank while the air is being drawn in thats preventing the juice from being tranported to the coil .another factor i believe contributes to the dry hitting is that the juice once in the wick /coil vicinity gets warmed up and becomes less viscous, so it is able to flow quickly to the coil element and be vaped in the initail stages of the draw... then juice feed begins to be wicked from the tank which is at a lower temp and a higher viscosity the juice flow is slower to the coil than initailly.. this flow of juice that tapers off as the hit progresses paired with the characteristic of a sub ohm coil taking time to ramp up up work hand in hand to create a dry or scorched hit, i suspect rewicking the standard coil may also help to improve juice flow to the the coil element.. the wicking material i pulled out was rather tightly packed in there.. going to try temp sensing as well to see if it will fix this dry harsh hitting towards the latter stages of the pull... my 0.3 ohm coil gave fantastic taste and clouds for 2 weeks until i pushed it to 50W in a chain vaping session...just lost vapour production and tasted like welding i rekon it ran a bit dry so pulled it out and disected it... the cotton wick was black and the coil itself also black and has actually nearly melted through in two spots.. just made like 2 little blobs on the wire... notice how the coil is blackened up to the melted areas and then silver from thereon... got the 0.5ohm coil in now the burnt taste has gone but its not giving me the flavor or the vapour of the 0.3ohm coil... will be trying some of the vaperesso cCell coils.. some ni and ti coils to run temp sensing mode on the pico.. this aswell as i see a rebuildable coil head is available for the melo3... considering relegating the pico with a std 0.3 coil to my all day carry vape and purchasing a rx200...and a rebuildable dripper .... time to play...View attachment 62387

Rebuildable head for Melo 3 here (2 left). It says Melo 2 on the site, but they fit the Melo 3 perfectly.