I'm really looking to get an RDA, but noticed that some of them with painted covers also have paint on the inside. Is this safe? Sorry if it's a dumb question.
Paint inside of covers
- Thread starter Feliks Karp
- Start date
Many tanks are painted on the inside - I take the Subtank for example, never had any issues, apart from the paint coming off after a while
That's part of my concern, where do those paint chips go to? Maybe in a tank, they can't get to the wick, but still sit in the juice, in an RDA they'll have direct contact with the wick and coils.
My Billow v2 was black, but the chimney was still SS - the painted exterior wore but never "flaked off"
My Griffin is black, with a black chimney - I have used the tank, since it was first released as my ADV tank and can quite honestly say that there is no paint flake or deterioration...
I think SS is the safest, long lasting choice - but, having owned two blacked out tanks I don't think you have too much to worry about...
My Griffin is black, with a black chimney - I have used the tank, since it was first released as my ADV tank and can quite honestly say that there is no paint flake or deterioration...
I think SS is the safest, long lasting choice - but, having owned two blacked out tanks I don't think you have too much to worry about...
Just to clarify, the OP talks about "painted" - I am 67.35% sure the griff/most new tanks are anodized...
Lead in paint paint, would be alarming
Lead in paint paint, would be alarming
This also goes for clones that have cheap plating or painting on the inside. Eventually it will start leaching. JMO
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Just to clarify, the OP talks about "painted" - I am 67.35% sure the griff/most new tanks are anodized...
Lead in paint paint, would be alarming
Hmmm i thought stainless steel cannot be anodized. Most tanks are SS
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Go for anodized finishing or SS...
Its really not worth the risk, purely for aesthetics alone
Its really not worth the risk, purely for aesthetics alone
Just to clarify, the OP talks about "painted" - I am 67.35% sure the griff/most new tanks are anodized...
Lead in paint paint, would be alarming
I don't think Stainless Steel can be Anodized.
Generally, "SS can't be anodized" - but, there are companies here in SA that told me they can anodize SS, just not as effectively as Aluminium. You are probably right though, and then my replies hold no water in this thread...
at least i was only 60ish% certain they were anodized
"Producing chemically coloured finishes on stainless steel
Colouring of stainless steel is normally restricted to sheet products, and although it is possible to colour fabricated components. Only the finest quality stainless steel sheet can be successfully chemically coloured on a production basis.
Chemical colouring of stainless steel sheet uses a mixture of chromic and sulphuric acids that develop the thickness of the naturally occurring passive film on the steel surface, depending on the immersion time. It is a two stage immersion process that requires close control on the operation's parameters and a considerable operator skill to get the required colour consistency. A far less frequently produced 'blackened' finish can be done by immersion on a fused sodium dichromate salt bath at around 400 C. This will not be discussed further in this article.
The colours produced are the result of light wave interference effects in as light is reflected from the surface of the thickened oxide passive layer and interface of the passive layer and steel surface. The sequence of colours formed as the film grows in thickness ranges through bronze, blue, black, charcoal, gold, red-violet and green. With care, intermediate colours are possible. The finished thickness of the passive film ranges from 0.02 microns to produce a bronze colour effect to 0.36 microns to produce a green colour effect. between the passive layer and the steel surface of the sheet.
The range of colours commercially available on austenitic 1.4301 (304) and 1.4401 (316) grades includes blue, black, bronze, gold, green and red/violet. A charcoal colour effect can be produced by treating a satin polished sheet to the same conditions that normally produce a blue on non-polished sheet surfaces. The range of colours possible on ferritic grade 1.4016 (430) material is generally more restricted.
A wide range of pre-finished surfaces can be coloured. These include flat mechanically ground, polished (satin) or blasted finishes or roll-patterned surfaces. Colouring can also be combined with acid etched patterns to provide an even wider range of textures, lusters and reflectivity effects
Comparison with anodized, painted and oxidized surfaces
Unlike anodizing, as used widely on aluminium products, the process is not an electrochemical one and in contrast to painting, there are no pigments or colouring chemicals used. Perhaps more important the process does not rely on heat to oxidize the surface, like the temper colours on heating at temperatures between 300 and 600 C. In contrast to these oxidized surfaces, chemically coloured stainless steel retains the aqueous (atmospheric) corrosion resistance of the un-coloured surface."
Article: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=187
*EDIT* - in China, there is no such word as "Can't" - 不能 is the closest
Colouring of stainless steel is normally restricted to sheet products, and although it is possible to colour fabricated components. Only the finest quality stainless steel sheet can be successfully chemically coloured on a production basis.
Chemical colouring of stainless steel sheet uses a mixture of chromic and sulphuric acids that develop the thickness of the naturally occurring passive film on the steel surface, depending on the immersion time. It is a two stage immersion process that requires close control on the operation's parameters and a considerable operator skill to get the required colour consistency. A far less frequently produced 'blackened' finish can be done by immersion on a fused sodium dichromate salt bath at around 400 C. This will not be discussed further in this article.
The colours produced are the result of light wave interference effects in as light is reflected from the surface of the thickened oxide passive layer and interface of the passive layer and steel surface. The sequence of colours formed as the film grows in thickness ranges through bronze, blue, black, charcoal, gold, red-violet and green. With care, intermediate colours are possible. The finished thickness of the passive film ranges from 0.02 microns to produce a bronze colour effect to 0.36 microns to produce a green colour effect. between the passive layer and the steel surface of the sheet.
The range of colours commercially available on austenitic 1.4301 (304) and 1.4401 (316) grades includes blue, black, bronze, gold, green and red/violet. A charcoal colour effect can be produced by treating a satin polished sheet to the same conditions that normally produce a blue on non-polished sheet surfaces. The range of colours possible on ferritic grade 1.4016 (430) material is generally more restricted.
A wide range of pre-finished surfaces can be coloured. These include flat mechanically ground, polished (satin) or blasted finishes or roll-patterned surfaces. Colouring can also be combined with acid etched patterns to provide an even wider range of textures, lusters and reflectivity effects
Comparison with anodized, painted and oxidized surfaces
Unlike anodizing, as used widely on aluminium products, the process is not an electrochemical one and in contrast to painting, there are no pigments or colouring chemicals used. Perhaps more important the process does not rely on heat to oxidize the surface, like the temper colours on heating at temperatures between 300 and 600 C. In contrast to these oxidized surfaces, chemically coloured stainless steel retains the aqueous (atmospheric) corrosion resistance of the un-coloured surface."
Article: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=187
*EDIT* - in China, there is no such word as "Can't" - 不能 is the closest
Just to clarify, the OP talks about "painted" - I am 67.35% sure the griff/most new tanks are anodized...
Lead in paint paint, would be alarming
Wow... that stat lmk! Fun fact though, 73.274% of all stats are made up on the spot.
Anyways
The black Griffin I have is anodized, all other tanks and drippers I own(ed) were raw SS on the inside. Should this be a concern to you, rather just take an RDA thats raw inside, and you wont have any troubles finding them as I believe this is the norm (painted/anodized/whatever procedure appears to be the minority).
Also, if paint is concern, make sure to soak and scrub your devices when you first get them, as machine oil is more of a concern than paint IMO.
Don't touch me on my Statsudio bro
Good tip on the rinse and wash, nothing worse than a mouthful of Papa Smurf*
Thanks for the responses.
Don't touch me on my Statsudio bro
Good tip on the rinse and wash, nothing worse than a mouthful of Papa Smurf*
The copy proceeding "anyways" was meant for OP. You cant use that tip, its for OP alone! (lol JJ)
You make a very good point there, now imagine a painted dripper full of machine oil, kitted with that RoHS Chinese Kanthal and Bleached cotton that comes with the Clone RDA's, thats wet with Papa Smurf... stuff nightmares are made of.
Thanks guys, ended up going for a raw SS, actually found a review on the black one I wanted and there were a couple chips in the colour after only a few pulls, tugs and twists.
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