Project KUI: Who says you can't polish a turd?
- Thread starter John
- Start date
Hehe. Well, it's pretty easy. First I stripped off the old paint with a wire wheel attached to a dremel. You can also leave it to soak in thinners overnight but I wanted to preserve the paint on the inside so I went the manual route. You'll end up with something like this:
Then, get 400, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1500 grit waterproof sanding paper and start with the 400, making your way up to the 1500. Only go to the next paper when you are 100% happy that the surface is perfectly flat and make sure you sand only in one direction. Keep washing the dust off after every 20-30 strokes for best result. This is possibly the most time consuming step but it's absolutely necessary to get the best results. Don't rush, I did it over a few days. By the time you're done with the 1500 paper it will look something like this:
Next step is polishing. I used good old fashioned Silvo, you can get this at any supermarket. I started off with a small polishing wheel on a dremel to get into the nooks and crannies, especially around the 510 etc. The rest was all good old fashioned elbow grease. After the first polishing you'll be able to see all the imperfections - if you have major OCD like me, you can tackle all the imperfections one by one, polishing again after each time. This is the result after one polish, I forsee about 4 or 5 more till I'm happy. But that's if you're chasing absolute perfection. Otherwise you can stop right there and admire your handiwork
enjoy! And feel free to PM me if you need to know anything else
Then, get 400, 800, 1000, 1200 and 1500 grit waterproof sanding paper and start with the 400, making your way up to the 1500. Only go to the next paper when you are 100% happy that the surface is perfectly flat and make sure you sand only in one direction. Keep washing the dust off after every 20-30 strokes for best result. This is possibly the most time consuming step but it's absolutely necessary to get the best results. Don't rush, I did it over a few days. By the time you're done with the 1500 paper it will look something like this:
Next step is polishing. I used good old fashioned Silvo, you can get this at any supermarket. I started off with a small polishing wheel on a dremel to get into the nooks and crannies, especially around the 510 etc. The rest was all good old fashioned elbow grease. After the first polishing you'll be able to see all the imperfections - if you have major OCD like me, you can tackle all the imperfections one by one, polishing again after each time. This is the result after one polish, I forsee about 4 or 5 more till I'm happy. But that's if you're chasing absolute perfection. Otherwise you can stop right there and admire your handiwork
enjoy! And feel free to PM me if you need to know anything else 
WOW!!! 
Hwsit buddy
Just a few questions.
Is that almost a mirror finish
How much maintenance do you need to keep it in that condition esp with things like key scratches
Would aluminum have similar results?
Just a few questions.
Is that almost a mirror finish
How much maintenance do you need to keep it in that condition esp with things like key scratches
Would aluminum have similar results?
Awesome work, @John
What do you want to polish?
If its a REO you want to polish then yes you can mirror polish it but it won't be easy without either a Dremmel or a bench polisher.
If you have to strip it of paint the best thing I've found is Durastrip,but it's a schlep and removing paint from the inside is time consuming,I use Acetone (thanks @johan ) after the Durastip has done it's job.
Personally I wouldn't spend the extra bucks on sanding pads as the normal stuff is cheaper.
What I do is cut the paper in half and tape it to a block of wood (pic will explain),you need to keep the paper wet and the best way I've found is to do it outside and just keep rinsing it using a hose pipe.Rub the workpiece over the block as opposed to rubbing a block over the workpiece.
I start with a 180 grit,I then go through most of the grits 360,600,800,1200,1500,2000.
Now if you are going to try and buff it by hand you could try Autosol (Marine Shine is good) or Mothers Mag (USA product but its available online here http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13&zenid=redhhqh72ps0jg423ljfuesdd1
I can't say how good you'll get the finish by hand but it should be OK.
When using any Aluminium polish you tend to get dull black markings from the residue which are a pain to remove,a metal polisher would probably use Vienna Lime but I use Maizena (Talcum Powder and French Chalk,its whats in a builders chalk line are supposed to work as well) just rub it over the workpiece and clean off with a Microfibre cloth.
Finish is more durable then you would expect and a light buff with just the Maizena should keep it looking good.
If you have to strip it of paint the best thing I've found is Durastrip,but it's a schlep and removing paint from the inside is time consuming,I use Acetone (thanks @johan ) after the Durastip has done it's job.
Personally I wouldn't spend the extra bucks on sanding pads as the normal stuff is cheaper.
What I do is cut the paper in half and tape it to a block of wood (pic will explain),you need to keep the paper wet and the best way I've found is to do it outside and just keep rinsing it using a hose pipe.Rub the workpiece over the block as opposed to rubbing a block over the workpiece.
I start with a 180 grit,I then go through most of the grits 360,600,800,1200,1500,2000.
Now if you are going to try and buff it by hand you could try Autosol (Marine Shine is good) or Mothers Mag (USA product but its available online here http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13&zenid=redhhqh72ps0jg423ljfuesdd1
I can't say how good you'll get the finish by hand but it should be OK.
When using any Aluminium polish you tend to get dull black markings from the residue which are a pain to remove,a metal polisher would probably use Vienna Lime but I use Maizena (Talcum Powder and French Chalk,its whats in a builders chalk line are supposed to work as well) just rub it over the workpiece and clean off with a Microfibre cloth.
Finish is more durable then you would expect and a light buff with just the Maizena should keep it looking good.
nice one dude!!! do you clear coat after you are done or leave the bare metal like it is?
Thats an idea
I'd be willing to do this for others, when I've perfected the technique - but its really so easy - even someone with basic DIY skill can pull this off Hey bud, Yes, it is an almost perfect mirror finish (with a few imperfections that need working on). about the scratches, thats hard to answer because Its still kind of WIP and I've not carried it around yet - but I have put it all back together and will be using it in real-world situations this week. Its due for another polish session next week so I'll report back on its durability on this thread then. I can add that it picks up fingerprints quite easily. Key scratches I dont know about - I doubt I will keep it in the same pocket with keys as its quite large (compared to my cloupor mini) and even that gets its own dedicated pocket. About polishing Aluminium, I cannot say as I've not attempted to before, but try out @Genosmate's suggestion - his process is very similar to mine.
Thanks bro. I have not clear coated it yet because it needs a bit more work but if its picking up too many scratches and requiring too much maintenance then yes, I will clearcoat it
Autosole is the way to go . That is how we bike riders polish our rims and frame to a perfect mirrors finish .
Available at any good auto shop
Available at any good auto shop
if the autosole do not work for u I will give you my reo for free ![/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
Autosole didn't work for me, u need my address to deliver the reo or will u deliver?
In my experience with aluminum. It's the easiest thing under the sun to polish to a mirror finish. I don't even use sandpaper anymore. A good cloth and some Brasso, plus lots of that magic elbow grease stuff will do the job. But I personally prefer a brushed finish.
I've worked with mods before and sometimes you want to keep the patina.
sometimes you want to keep the shine.
sometimes you dont want fingerprints.
Ok, what you *need* is stuff called "protectaclear". I have no idea where you buy it in S.A.
It is a liquid that you apply with a microfibre cloth after using the supplied degreaser. It is meant for shiny american fridge doors, and shiny bar-b-ques and so on, but I wasnt the first person to use it on a mod and I wont be the last.
here it is being used on a stainless steel braai
this is the stuff in case the bottles look familiar etc
http://www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=5
/end of polishing
/end of fingerprints
reapply when you want, or put two coats for durability. Doesnt go yellow.
here is youtuber mod reviewer shish playing with the stuff
My understanding is that it was originally developed for jewelery, chains..necklaces..(stuff that is in contact with your body)...to keep the shine. The $24 starter kit has enoug liquid to probably do about 20 tube mods/boxes (hint...hint)
side edit: I've been out of the game for about six months, and really should get me one of these boxes. Looks brilliant!
sometimes you want to keep the shine.
sometimes you dont want fingerprints.
Ok, what you *need* is stuff called "protectaclear". I have no idea where you buy it in S.A.
It is a liquid that you apply with a microfibre cloth after using the supplied degreaser. It is meant for shiny american fridge doors, and shiny bar-b-ques and so on, but I wasnt the first person to use it on a mod and I wont be the last.
here it is being used on a stainless steel braai
this is the stuff in case the bottles look familiar etc
http://www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=5
/end of polishing
/end of fingerprints
reapply when you want, or put two coats for durability. Doesnt go yellow.
here is youtuber mod reviewer shish playing with the stuff
My understanding is that it was originally developed for jewelery, chains..necklaces..(stuff that is in contact with your body)...to keep the shine. The $24 starter kit has enoug liquid to probably do about 20 tube mods/boxes (hint...hint)
side edit: I've been out of the game for about six months, and really should get me one of these boxes. Looks brilliant!
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Nice share, thanks bud! There's a KUI pre order thread in the Palas (sic?) Sub forum and also a complete KUI kit for sale in classifieds
Can anyonetell me how t remove the upgarde 510 conecton without stuffing it up? From what I hear it is press-fitted, but before I go and break the 510 or the mod I'd rather make sure
@Yusuf Cape Vaper did you do the upgrade yourself?
@Yusuf Cape Vaper did you do the upgrade yourself?
Its press fit. You can carefully tap it out from the bottom.
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