Pros and Cons of temp control

Thank you Silver and all other Senior Vapers that provided so much useful information.

I was also looking for a temp control mod, and is thinking of buying a IPV4. because that I can probably loose my Cloupor T8 (killing 2 bird with one stone?)

If there is any one that tried IPV4, if you may supply with some experiences and how you felt about it, it will be great!
 
Howzit @Silver

I'm still pretty new to the temp control thing, check out my posting here.

http://www.ecigssa.co.za/my-journey-into-temperature-control.t11615/#post-224809

The short version, is that its pretty damned sexy when it works. But from what I've used, its still prone to bugginess.

Since I got the flask, I've been using it say... 75% of the time in temp control mode with my Subtank Mini. the other 25% i'm dripping on my sigelei, either with my Hellboy or Mutilator.

The big thing for me, is that i'm able to max VG desert flavours in the Subtank. Sure I could do it before, but before i'd start to get that taste, just before its going to dry it. with temp control, it never quite gets to that point. if that makes sense?
 
Thanks for all the info guys

Am enjoying reading this

@Yiannaki - you make a good point that the very low ohm builds cannot be dry burned on "normal" mods because they are too low. But out of interest, what happens if you turn up the temperature to the maximum and try dry burn it in temp control mode?

Also, as an aside - when we dry burn our normal kanthal builds and it glows red, I wonder what temperature the coil is reaching? I assume that is much higher than the temp control settings...
When I insert a new build into a TC mod: RX200 : it initially glows red across the middle and equalizes, to pulse the heat across the stainless steels i"ve been using for the last year. 26 Gauges. I'm going to Titanium tonight still to finally compare the stainless steel and the Titanium that exists even on the sun.
 
When I insert a new build into a TC mod: RX200 : it initially glows red across the middle and equalizes, to pulse the heat across the stainless steels i"ve been using for the last year. 26 Gauges. I'm going to Titanium tonight still to finally compare the stainless steel and the Titanium that exists even on the sun.

Which TC wire are you letting glow?

I wouldn't glow Ni200 or TI for that matter.

@Andre - I recall some time ago you mentioned Ti to be harmful if heated till it glows
 
Both Ni200 and Ti should not be pulsed as they oxidize at very low temperatures and this oxidation is harmful to us mortals... feel clever cause I have just been researching this quite intensively. The only TC friendly wire that can be pulsed is SS and even then you should only pulse at very low heat as SS tends to melt at the posts. Also should avoid pulsing to a bright glow.
 
Which TC wire are you letting glow?

I wouldn't glow Ni200 or TI for that matter.

@Andre - I recall some time ago you mentioned Ti to be harmful if heated till it glows
Ti if it glows red and turns to oxidized white powder, can be rubbed off to prevent any harm. Read a lot about it. The slinkiness of Titanium is beating the stainless steel pulling the mod the way it wants, or being so difficult. Titanium found on the sun, supposedly, and in fireworks to help give off the low amount of heat needed to let it spark works really well in the Avo genesis tank. More stable than stainless steel {Waiting to get SS26gauge 30/32 claptons} at month end]]. It wicks well, and economizes the juice better than Stainless steel.

It was also much easier for me to build a Titanium loosely spaced 6 rep coil, rather than a 8 wrap 26 gauge SS - :? Im heavily experimenting between Ti and SS the following few months.
 
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