DurbanThroatHit

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Hi All

So I have 3 nichrome contact coils in the maxo v12 tri-deck and the initial resistance was .28 and been vaping around 60w constantly. but I've seen it jump to .35 and as high as .4

Should i be concerned ? Must i try lock the resistance and/or use a custom tcr ? What is my acceptable jump range ? whats the worst case scenario with resistance jumping ?

new to all this so any extra info is more than welcomed :D

thanks
 
Hi All

So I have 3 nichrome contact coils in the maxo v12 tri-deck and the initial resistance was .28 and been vaping around 60w constantly. but I've seen it jump to .35 and as high as .4

Should i be concerned ? Must i try lock the resistance and/or use a custom tcr ? What is my acceptable jump range ? whats the worst case scenario with resistance jumping ?

new to all this so any extra info is more than welcomed :D

thanks
silly question ...did u check if the screw are thigh after u dry burn it ?
 
When do you see the resistance increase? when the coils are hot? or after they've cooled down? Those numbers you're mentioning are a bit high/too much of an increase for Nichrome, I'd say you've got a bad contact somewhere else as well, either the screw contacts holding the wires in place, else the connection between the atomiser and mod can also be a source of extra resistance, you check out both...
 
When do you see the resistance increase? when the coils are hot? or after they've cooled down? Those numbers you're mentioning are a bit high/too much of an increase for Nichrome, I'd say you've got a bad contact somewhere else as well, either the screw contacts holding the wires in place, else the connection between the atomiser and mod can also be a source of extra resistance, you check out both...

So i just re checked the screws and they were all okay but now when i power on the device with the tank completely on it says .41. When i dry burned when the tank was off it was at .28 then jumped to .33

Honestly I only noticed it today but i have been using these coils since yesterday so not sure if it was doing the same. Would locking the resistance make it more safe ?
 
You're running power mode, I guess, not temperature mode, so the resistance variable, can be ignored, but assuming your mod is accurately reflecting the real resistance, then it is something to be mildly concerned about, why should your resistance vary by a relatively large amount, this, in my eyes, points to a bad contact somewhere...
 
You're running power mode, I guess, not temperature mode, so the resistance variable, can be ignored, but assuming your mod is accurately reflecting the real resistance, then it is something to be mildly concerned about, why should your resistance vary by a relatively large amount, this, in my eyes, points to a bad contact somewhere...

Having checked everything and not being able to locate a faulty connection, what is my course of action ? I know even with pre-built coils theres slight variance with the listed resistance vs when actually using the coil. But given that its jumping after each click basically has me concerned.

Is there a huge risk to myself or the mod with this jumping ?
 
I wouldn't think there's much risk, you are running a regulated mod, else how would you know the resistance variance, so that's pretty much a safeguard, I'd think...
Are your coils closely spaced? ie no spacing between the windings? It could also be resistance climbing due to oxidation on the coils, I guess. See it this way, if the coil windings are touching, this would be the shortest route for electrons to travel (lowest resistance), but once you start firing/vaping the outer layers will see some oxidisation and now the electrons follow the coils round and round, since the touching coil windings, due to oxidisation, represent a higher resistance path and thus this may be why you are measuring a higher resistance.... maybe...
 
The only reason you'd ever want to lock the resistance, is if you're running temperature mode, I'd think and I don't think you are, or are you? if you are and its still working with such a wide varyance in resistance, I'd think the mod isn't working right either...
 
Yep a minikin v2 with contact coils so they were wrapped close together. This oxidation, is it dangerous to my health ? Ie does the heating of this layer release toxins ? Will a dry burn remove them ?
I wouldn't think there's much risk, you are running a regulated mod, else how would you know the resistance variance, so that's pretty much a safeguard, I'd think...
Are your coils closely spaced? ie no spacing between the windings? It could also be resistance climbing due to oxidation on the coils, I guess. See it this way, if the coil windings are touching, this would be the shortest route for electrons to travel (lowest resistance), but once you start firing/vaping the outer layers will see some oxidisation and now the electrons follow the coils round and round, since the touching coil windings, due to oxidisation, represent a higher resistance path and thus this may be why you are measuring a higher resistance.... maybe...
 
The only reason you'd ever want to lock the resistance, is if you're running temperature mode, I'd think and I don't think you are, or are you? if you are and its still working with such a wide varyance in resistance, I'd think the mod isn't working right either...
Not running TC but i think ive locked it in at .41 now however i dont see the little lock symbol next to the resistance so im not sure it if it did.
 
No, don't worry about the oxidisation, any metal (except gold) will oxidise to some degree or other, your nichrome should be fine, I'd think, give titanium wire a wide berth, else I think you're ok.
I also use a Minikin as one of my mods, with a RDTA and a pair of SS316L coils and do use temp control, but haven't seen your kind of variance in resistance, but not exactly closely spaced windings and of course, being in temp mode, I do lock the resistance...

The resistance lock is only of value in temperature mode and there is no lock symbol on my Minikin V2, that I can see/recall...
 
No, don't worry about the oxidisation, any metal (except gold) will oxidise to some degree or other, your nichrome should be fine, I'd think, give titanium wire a wide berth, else I think you're ok.
I also use a Minikin as one of my mods, with a RDTA and a pair of SS316L coils and do use temp control, but haven't seen your kind of variance in resistance, but not exactly closely spaced windings and of course, being in temp mode, I do lock the resistance...

The resistance lock is only of value in temperature mode and there is no lock symbol on my Minikin V2, that I can see/recall...

Thanks so much for your input. Really helps. For non TC mode use, does this high variance pose any greater risk or is it just an anomaly ?
 
Its a funny I haven't seen, but I switched to TC control early on and am using pretty much SS316L mostly, I do have some NI200, but mostly do stainless steel, maybe someone else has more experience with Nichrome under VW mode, but I haven't seen such variations with my setup, so can't say whether its normal or not, I'd imagine most vapers that use VW mode, hardly ever look at the resistance, other than at build time, I'd think, but I'm likely wrong here, so maybe someone else can chime in and part out their experiences.
 
Thanks so much for your input. Really helps. For non TC mode use, does this high variance pose any greater risk or is it just an anomaly ?
Howzit guys, just going to share my experience with my set up.
- Serpent RDTA ss316 26g 0.5 - 0.6, some times building 0.45.(0.02 +- ) When I dry burn - if I do, it can easily go higher then a 0.05 difference but after wicking. if chain vape or i take a mega long hit and goes any higher then 0.05, it will give my a dry hit (burn my cotton and probably do all that oxidizing and what not). I change my cotton asap and coil sometimes after a dry hit. It always stabilizes back to normal resistance after cooling down. Not sure about the risks but I change coils and cotton often anyway, just to be safe.

Sent from my GT-I9195I using Tapatalk
 
The ohm jump does seem a little high especially for nichrome. My first port of call would also have been checking connectors and screws to ensure your coils are making contact. But you said you have checked.
Are your coils all heating the same when you fire it up prior to wicking? Are all three starting glowing from the inside and all 3 glowing the same?
Then check that your RBA has all necessary o-ring in place. Usually there will be at least one o-ring where the RBA attaches to the base of the atty.
Then check that your RBA is making good contact to your base at the positive connector.
Finally check the 510 pin and insure that the pin is not loose or moving and that there is a definite gap between positive centre pin and outer thread section.
Also a good idea to check your 510 connector on your mod. Make sure there are no nasties in there and wipe it out with an earbud.

I don't own one of these tanks so cannot give specifics but the general principle is the same for all tanks.
 
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Its a funny I haven't seen, but I switched to TC control early on and am using pretty much SS316L mostly, I do have some NI200, but mostly do stainless steel, maybe someone else has more experience with Nichrome under VW mode, but I haven't seen such variations with my setup, so can't say whether its normal or not, I'd imagine most vapers that use VW mode, hardly ever look at the resistance, other than at build time, I'd think, but I'm likely wrong here, so maybe someone else can chime in and part out their experiences.

Yeah I guess so. I mean I only noticed it because my batteries were done charging and i put them in and so the jump so not sure if it was happening before but since i took it apart its been stable at .41 now. Does dry burning remove the oxidation ?
 
Howzit guys, just going to share my experience with my set up.
- Serpent RDTA ss316 26g 0.5 - 0.6, some times building 0.45.(0.02 +- ) When I dry burn - if I do, it can easily go higher then a 0.05 difference but after wicking. if chain vape or i take a mega long hit and goes any higher then 0.05, it will give my a dry hit (burn my cotton and probably do all that oxidizing and what not). I change my cotton asap and coil sometimes after a dry hit. It always stabilizes back to normal resistance after cooling down. Not sure about the risks but I change coils and cotton often anyway, just to be safe.

Sent from my GT-I9195I using Tapatalk

The coil was dry burned and pinched before re-wicking on monday so not sure if it is the cotton but I am noticing more dry hits :( ahh this RTA thing is taking a while to get the hang off.
 
The ohm jump does seem a little high especially for nichrome. My first port of call would also have been checking connectors and screws to ensure your coils are making contact. But you said you have checked.
Are your coils all heating the same when you fire it up prior to wicking? Are all three starting glowing from the inside and all 3 glowing the same?
Then check that your RBA has all necessary prints in place. Usually there will be at least one boring where the RBA attaches to the base of the atty.
Then check that your RBA is making good contact to your base at the positive connector.
Finally check the 510 pin and insure that the pin is not loose or moving and that there is a definite gap between positive centre pin and outer thread section.
Also a good idea to check your 510 connector on your mod. Make sure there are no nasties in there and wipe it out with an earbud.

I don't own one of these tanks so cannot give specifics but the general principle is the same for all tanks.

Before the re-wick they were :( does spaced coils generally see less resistance jump ? do you only run spaced coils in TC?

When you say "prints in place" what specifically am I looking for

Will check the 510 now
 
Before the re-wick they were :( does spaced coils generally see less resistance jump ? do you only run spaced coils in TC?

When you say "prints in place" what specifically am I looking for

Will check the 510 now
Prints was supposed to say o-ring ... predictive text nightmares. I have corrected the original post.

Spaced coils are used in TC or power mode. Some people believe spaced coils to gunk up less than compact coils but it's debatable. They do however ensure even electron transfer which is desirable in TC mode and may assist in your case where you have varying readings. By making another set of coils and checking all your bases again you will just be eliminating some more possible issues. I have also already found that screws I knew were tight had loosened again. It happens.
Oxidation can be removed by dry burning without wick and rinsing red hot coil under water. Just don't get water on your mod or you could end up with bigger problems than varying ohms... like losing homes.

Sent from my SM-T815 using Tapatalk
 
Update: SO it turns out one of the coils actually snapped at the post but i didn't notice it. Would like to thank everyone who tried to help and who gave me some info ! Onward DIY coils :D
 
Sweet glad you checked that out, just try different builds and wicking styles, im sure you will find the right build for your tank, without getting dry hits

Sent from my GT-I9195I using Tapatalk
 
Oh yah I change my statement it can go higher than 0.05 - like 0.08 resistance difference, then any higher and very high chance of dry hit. It varies with different builds.

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