Scared to use my mech mod

[Jaco Engelbrecht]

Good day all
Been vaping for the last 8 months - can build some decent coils and have some knowledge of electronics / ohms law etc.
BUT with all this hype on people blowing their teeth out and ears off with mech mods, I`m a bit scared to use my brand new brass kennedy roundhouse 25.
Now you will say if you are scared, don`t use it - But I`m somebody that like`s to experiment and want to at least try a mech once.

1) Will be using basically new LG HG2 3000mah 18650`s which are rated 20A cont. To be conservative - let`s say I can get 15A out of them, then a 0.3 ohm will be my lowest build - which will pull 14A.
2) Battery wrap must be brand spanking new.
3)510 pin on my drippers must protrude at least 2mm?
4)Mech mod must be supper clean and button operating smoothly.
5)Don't throw mod in wife`s purse or any pocket - firing button only needs to be activated when needed to.

Install dripper on mod with correct 510 pin and minimum 0.3 ohm tested.
Install 18650 with negative side to 510 pin, because the roundhouse vent holes are situated at the bottom near the firing button (positive to firing button).
Install button finger tight.
Push button and hope for the best?

Am I missing anything guys????

 

[incredible_hullk]

Good day all
Been vaping for the last 8 months - can build some decent coils and have some knowledge of electronics / ohms law etc.
BUT with all this hype on people blowing their teeth out and ears off with mech mods, I`m a bit scared to use my brand new brass kennedy roundhouse 25.
Now you will say if you are scared, don`t use it - But I`m somebody that like`s to experiment and want to at least try a mech once.

1) Will be using basically new LG HG2 3000mah 18650`s which are rated 20A cont. To be conservative - let`s say I can get 15A out of them, then a 0.3 ohm will be my lowest build - which will pull 14A.
2) Battery wrap must be brand spanking new.
3)510 pin on my drippers must protrude at least 2mm?
4)Mech mod must be supper clean and button operating smoothly.
5)Don't throw mod in wife`s purse or any pocket - firing button only needs to be activated when needed to.

Install dripper on mod with correct 510 pin and minimum 0.3 ohm tested.
Install 18650 with negative side to 510 pin, because the roundhouse vent holes are situated at the bottom near the firing button (positive to firing button).
Install button finger tight.
Push button and hope for the best?

Am I missing anything guys????

Pretty much got it but if I could add...remove battery when not in use and check that your batteries have no black carbon build up (use pencil eraser to clean)

If you use good batteries and builds for amps then you all good and no need to fear...I was the same when I got my first mech

 

[DoubleD]

You're on point bud Enjoy!

 

[Clouds4Days]

Good day all
Been vaping for the last 8 months - can build some decent coils and have some knowledge of electronics / ohms law etc.
BUT with all this hype on people blowing their teeth out and ears off with mech mods, I`m a bit scared to use my brand new brass kennedy roundhouse 25.
Now you will say if you are scared, don`t use it - But I`m somebody that like`s to experiment and want to at least try a mech once.

1) Will be using basically new LG HG2 3000mah 18650`s which are rated 20A cont. To be conservative - let`s say I can get 15A out of them, then a 0.3 ohm will be my lowest build - which will pull 14A.
2) Battery wrap must be brand spanking new.
3)510 pin on my drippers must protrude at least 2mm?
4)Mech mod must be supper clean and button operating smoothly.
5)Don't throw mod in wife`s purse or any pocket - firing button only needs to be activated when needed to.

Install dripper on mod with correct 510 pin and minimum 0.3 ohm tested.
Install 18650 with negative side to 510 pin, because the roundhouse vent holes are situated at the bottom near the firing button (positive to firing button).
Install button finger tight.
Push button and hope for the best?

Am I missing anything guys????

Being scared is a good thing bud, it makes you more cautious so that there are no mistakes.

But once you follow all the procedure you have nothing to be scared of while you vape because you know that you have delt with all the safety pre-vaping.
So...
Vape on brother....

 

[Silver]

Great post @Jaco Engelbrecht and welcome to the forum

I dont know the roundhouse but as far as the ohms and battery drain issues go, you have summed it up very well and it sounds good.

Enjoy and let us know how it goes

Just an extra tip, when you check the ohms of your build, check it again with the atty cap on as well, just in case a wire is touching something it shouldnt. And when you rewick, make sure the coil doesnt move around. Good idea to check the ohms again every now and then.

 

[gertvanjoe]

Something to think about : The world greatest aerial acrobats were once afraid to let go of the bar You seem to be knowing what you are doing .... go for it

 

[Maxxis]

Your mechanical mod should never be something you are scared of. If you are scared of it you won't enjoy it!

What you should be is respectful!

Lets start right at the beginning and work our way through the different things to look at.

First things first the actual gear

You have your RDA, Mod, and battery.

Lets start with the RDA. Do a visual inspection and mechanical inspection. Are all the screws nice and tight? This includes the post screws as well as you 510s positive pin. If everything is checked move on and inspect the insulators etc. If anything is loose, or looks to be warped out of place ask a shop of somebody with more technical knowledge to check it out too.

Second thing on the RDA. Does the positive of the 510 connector protrude past the threaded section? If not or if it doesn't protrude more than 1 to 1.5mm you would need to look at an alternative RDA. Now with some RDAs you do get ajustable positive pins. Im not a fan of these at all since they can work themselves back in and cause some problems down the line.

On your RDA you obviously have a build. Is this build in any way touching any part of the deck or top cap? If so adjust and make sure there is no chance of shorting. Also use the build on a regulated device first for a couple of minutes to ensure there isn't any resistance fluctuations etc.

Now set the RDA aside and lets look at the battery. First up is a proper visual inspection of the battery. Is any part of the wrap damaged? If so have it rewrapped. Is the top or positive side of the battery dented in at all? If so, replace the battery.

Now the biggest part on the battery. NEVER use a battery straight off the charger in a mechanical mod. Always let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes to cool down and relax. Batteries straight off the charger could go into thermal runaway when discharged to fast.

Last point on batteries. Always use the highest amp rating you can find. There are no 18650 batteries with an amp rating above 30A so don't fall for that. Google Mooch Battery Reviews for a list. My personal favourites are the Sony VTC4s and Samsung 25Rs.

Before we look at the builds. Your mods! Mechs come in two variations. The hybrid and non-hybrid. Hybrid refers to a top cap design on a mechanical mod where the atomisers positive pin makes direct contact with the positive terminal on the battery. It is SUPER important that your RDA has a protruding positive pin. If ever in doubt check with your local store if it is compatible. The non-hybrid has a floating pin or spring loaded pin between the battery and the atomiser making it a safer option for people starting out with mechanical mods.

Always make sure your mod is free from any dirt or juice etc. Rubbing alcohol works well to dissolve dirt. Use it to clean all contacts and threads. Do this at least once a week. Open up the switch and also clean out any dirt inside. Be very careful when opening a switch as some have super strong yet fragile magnets inside that could break.

Once cleaned and all of the above is checked. How to use the thing. The MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember is: BATTERY ALWAYS GOES IN LAST. Not all hybrid mechs have a domed top on the inside so having a battery in a mod with no atty on could lead to a dead short if the button is pressed. The battery will be pushed up to the top of the mod and potentially close the circuit. Spark will fly!

Now that the atty is on and the battery is in... Dont just vape. FIRST TEST. Hold the mod away from you and others and do a quick press of the button to see if everything working. If it does place the top cap on and do it again. Still working? Good. Happy vaping.

What if it doesn't fire? It can happen that a mech misfires. It is not normal and could mean that something isn't doing what it should. Take the battery out and start from the beginning again and check everything. If your mod has any floating pins or adjustability for battery rattle etc make sure it is adjusted properly.

What if something goes wrong? Mech have gone wrong in the past and the following would be things to look out for. If the mod heats up rapidly or you see any sparks or any smoke from it, GET AWAY! Move a safe distance away and make sure the mech isn't in any way a risk to others around you.

Last few things.

Always check your voltages. Dont let your batteries drop below 3.6v. Just a good practice and you will quickly learn when its time to charge.

Stay safe and enjoy your mechanical mods.

 

[Jaco Engelbrecht]

Thanks all - my gemoed are feeling a bit better. Will unbox my mod tomorrow and take it slow threw all the steps.

 

[Clouds4Days]

Your mechanical mod should never be something you are scared of. If you are scared of it you won't enjoy it!

What you should be is respectful!

Lets start right at the beginning and work our way through the different things to look at.

First things first the actual gear

You have your RDA, Mod, and battery.

Lets start with the RDA. Do a visual inspection and mechanical inspection. Are all the screws nice and tight? This includes the post screws as well as you 510s positive pin. If everything is checked move on and inspect the insulators etc. If anything is loose, or looks to be warped out of place ask a shop of somebody with more technical knowledge to check it out too.

Second thing on the RDA. Does the positive of the 510 connector protrude past the threaded section? If not or if it doesn't protrude more than 1 to 1.5mm you would need to look at an alternative RDA. Now with some RDAs you do get ajustable positive pins. Im not a fan of these at all since they can work themselves back in and cause some problems down the line.

On your RDA you obviously have a build. Is this build in any way touching any part of the deck or top cap? If so adjust and make sure there is no chance of shorting. Also use the build on a regulated device first for a couple of minutes to ensure there isn't any resistance fluctuations etc.

Now set the RDA aside and lets look at the battery. First up is a proper visual inspection of the battery. Is any part of the wrap damaged? If so have it rewrapped. Is the top or positive side of the battery dented in at all? If so, replace the battery.

Now the biggest part on the battery. NEVER use a battery straight off the charger in a mechanical mod. Always let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes to cool down and relax. Batteries straight off the charger could go into thermal runaway when discharged to fast.

Last point on batteries. Always use the highest amp rating you can find. There are no 18650 batteries with an amp rating above 30A so don't fall for that. Google Mooch Battery Reviews for a list. My personal favourites are the Sony VTC4s and Samsung 25Rs.

Before we look at the builds. Your mods! Mechs come in two variations. The hybrid and non-hybrid. Hybrid refers to a top cap design on a mechanical mod where the atomisers positive pin makes direct contact with the positive terminal on the battery. It is SUPER important that your RDA has a protruding positive pin. If ever in doubt check with your local store if it is compatible. The non-hybrid has a floating pin or spring loaded pin between the battery and the atomiser making it a safer option for people starting out with mechanical mods.

Always make sure your mod is free from any dirt or juice etc. Rubbing alcohol works well to dissolve dirt. Use it to clean all contacts and threads. Do this at least once a week. Open up the switch and also clean out any dirt inside. Be very careful when opening a switch as some have super strong yet fragile magnets inside that could break.

Once cleaned and all of the above is checked. How to use the thing. The MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember is: BATTERY ALWAYS GOES IN LAST. Not all hybrid mechs have a domed top on the inside so having a battery in a mod with no atty on could lead to a dead short if the button is pressed. The battery will be pushed up to the top of the mod and potentially close the circuit. Spark will fly!

Now that the atty is on and the battery is in... Dont just vape. FIRST TEST. Hold the mod away from you and others and do a quick press of the button to see if everything working. If it does place the top cap on and do it again. Still working? Good. Happy vaping.

What if it doesn't fire? It can happen that a mech misfires. It is not normal and could mean that something isn't doing what it should. Take the battery out and start from the beginning again and check everything. If your mod has any floating pins or adjustability for battery rattle etc make sure it is adjusted properly.

What if something goes wrong? Mech have gone wrong in the past and the following would be things to look out for. If the mod heats up rapidly or you see any sparks or any smoke from it, GET AWAY! Move a safe distance away and make sure the mech isn't in any way a risk to others around you.

Last few things.

Always check your voltages. Dont let your batteries drop below 3.6v. Just a good practice and you will quickly learn when its time to charge.

Stay safe and enjoy your mechanical mods.

Awesome in detail write up brother, and thats why you my friend are the best dam vape shop that deals in Mechs.

 

[Flava]

Your mechanical mod should never be something you are scared of. If you are scared of it you won't enjoy it!

What you should be is respectful!

Lets start right at the beginning and work our way through the different things to look at.

First things first the actual gear

You have your RDA, Mod, and battery.

Lets start with the RDA. Do a visual inspection and mechanical inspection. Are all the screws nice and tight? This includes the post screws as well as you 510s positive pin. If everything is checked move on and inspect the insulators etc. If anything is loose, or looks to be warped out of place ask a shop of somebody with more technical knowledge to check it out too.

Second thing on the RDA. Does the positive of the 510 connector protrude past the threaded section? If not or if it doesn't protrude more than 1 to 1.5mm you would need to look at an alternative RDA. Now with some RDAs you do get ajustable positive pins. Im not a fan of these at all since they can work themselves back in and cause some problems down the line.

On your RDA you obviously have a build. Is this build in any way touching any part of the deck or top cap? If so adjust and make sure there is no chance of shorting. Also use the build on a regulated device first for a couple of minutes to ensure there isn't any resistance fluctuations etc.

Now set the RDA aside and lets look at the battery. First up is a proper visual inspection of the battery. Is any part of the wrap damaged? If so have it rewrapped. Is the top or positive side of the battery dented in at all? If so, replace the battery.

Now the biggest part on the battery. NEVER use a battery straight off the charger in a mechanical mod. Always let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes to cool down and relax. Batteries straight off the charger could go into thermal runaway when discharged to fast.

Last point on batteries. Always use the highest amp rating you can find. There are no 18650 batteries with an amp rating above 30A so don't fall for that. Google Mooch Battery Reviews for a list. My personal favourites are the Sony VTC4s and Samsung 25Rs.

Before we look at the builds. Your mods! Mechs come in two variations. The hybrid and non-hybrid. Hybrid refers to a top cap design on a mechanical mod where the atomisers positive pin makes direct contact with the positive terminal on the battery. It is SUPER important that your RDA has a protruding positive pin. If ever in doubt check with your local store if it is compatible. The non-hybrid has a floating pin or spring loaded pin between the battery and the atomiser making it a safer option for people starting out with mechanical mods.

Always make sure your mod is free from any dirt or juice etc. Rubbing alcohol works well to dissolve dirt. Use it to clean all contacts and threads. Do this at least once a week. Open up the switch and also clean out any dirt inside. Be very careful when opening a switch as some have super strong yet fragile magnets inside that could break.

Once cleaned and all of the above is checked. How to use the thing. The MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember is: BATTERY ALWAYS GOES IN LAST. Not all hybrid mechs have a domed top on the inside so having a battery in a mod with no atty on could lead to a dead short if the button is pressed. The battery will be pushed up to the top of the mod and potentially close the circuit. Spark will fly!

Now that the atty is on and the battery is in... Dont just vape. FIRST TEST. Hold the mod away from you and others and do a quick press of the button to see if everything working. If it does place the top cap on and do it again. Still working? Good. Happy vaping.

What if it doesn't fire? It can happen that a mech misfires. It is not normal and could mean that something isn't doing what it should. Take the battery out and start from the beginning again and check everything. If your mod has any floating pins or adjustability for battery rattle etc make sure it is adjusted properly.

What if something goes wrong? Mech have gone wrong in the past and the following would be things to look out for. If the mod heats up rapidly or you see any sparks or any smoke from it, GET AWAY! Move a safe distance away and make sure the mech isn't in any way a risk to others around you.

Last few things.

Always check your voltages. Dont let your batteries drop below 3.6v. Just a good practice and you will quickly learn when its time to charge.

Stay safe and enjoy your mechanical mods.

Great explanation. One thing that seems inconsistent/many ppl have their opinions, is it battery positive to rda positive. Vent holes on tube mod, does it influence battery positioning? Does it matter on a tube mod?

 

[Keyaam]

Great explanation. One thing that seems inconsistent/many ppl have their opinions, is it battery positive to rda positive. Vent holes on tube mod, does it influence battery positioning? Does it matter on a tube mod?

Im not gonna say that you can use a battery in the reversed position. But do yourself a favour. Watch the review of the broadside mechanical mod by the vaping biker. Its something against the norm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Romiebleed]

Your mechanical mod should never be something you are scared of. If you are scared of it you won't enjoy it!

What you should be is respectful!

Lets start right at the beginning and work our way through the different things to look at.

First things first the actual gear

You have your RDA, Mod, and battery.

Lets start with the RDA. Do a visual inspection and mechanical inspection. Are all the screws nice and tight? This includes the post screws as well as you 510s positive pin. If everything is checked move on and inspect the insulators etc. If anything is loose, or looks to be warped out of place ask a shop of somebody with more technical knowledge to check it out too.

Second thing on the RDA. Does the positive of the 510 connector protrude past the threaded section? If not or if it doesn't protrude more than 1 to 1.5mm you would need to look at an alternative RDA. Now with some RDAs you do get ajustable positive pins. Im not a fan of these at all since they can work themselves back in and cause some problems down the line.

On your RDA you obviously have a build. Is this build in any way touching any part of the deck or top cap? If so adjust and make sure there is no chance of shorting. Also use the build on a regulated device first for a couple of minutes to ensure there isn't any resistance fluctuations etc.

Now set the RDA aside and lets look at the battery. First up is a proper visual inspection of the battery. Is any part of the wrap damaged? If so have it rewrapped. Is the top or positive side of the battery dented in at all? If so, replace the battery.

Now the biggest part on the battery. NEVER use a battery straight off the charger in a mechanical mod. Always let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes to cool down and relax. Batteries straight off the charger could go into thermal runaway when discharged to fast.

Last point on batteries. Always use the highest amp rating you can find. There are no 18650 batteries with an amp rating above 30A so don't fall for that. Google Mooch Battery Reviews for a list. My personal favourites are the Sony VTC4s and Samsung 25Rs.

Before we look at the builds. Your mods! Mechs come in two variations. The hybrid and non-hybrid. Hybrid refers to a top cap design on a mechanical mod where the atomisers positive pin makes direct contact with the positive terminal on the battery. It is SUPER important that your RDA has a protruding positive pin. If ever in doubt check with your local store if it is compatible. The non-hybrid has a floating pin or spring loaded pin between the battery and the atomiser making it a safer option for people starting out with mechanical mods.

Always make sure your mod is free from any dirt or juice etc. Rubbing alcohol works well to dissolve dirt. Use it to clean all contacts and threads. Do this at least once a week. Open up the switch and also clean out any dirt inside. Be very careful when opening a switch as some have super strong yet fragile magnets inside that could break.

Once cleaned and all of the above is checked. How to use the thing. The MOST IMPORTANT thing to remember is: BATTERY ALWAYS GOES IN LAST. Not all hybrid mechs have a domed top on the inside so having a battery in a mod with no atty on could lead to a dead short if the button is pressed. The battery will be pushed up to the top of the mod and potentially close the circuit. Spark will fly!

Now that the atty is on and the battery is in... Dont just vape. FIRST TEST. Hold the mod away from you and others and do a quick press of the button to see if everything working. If it does place the top cap on and do it again. Still working? Good. Happy vaping.

What if it doesn't fire? It can happen that a mech misfires. It is not normal and could mean that something isn't doing what it should. Take the battery out and start from the beginning again and check everything. If your mod has any floating pins or adjustability for battery rattle etc make sure it is adjusted properly.

What if something goes wrong? Mech have gone wrong in the past and the following would be things to look out for. If the mod heats up rapidly or you see any sparks or any smoke from it, GET AWAY! Move a safe distance away and make sure the mech isn't in any way a risk to others around you.

Last few things.

Always check your voltages. Dont let your batteries drop below 3.6v. Just a good practice and you will quickly learn when its time to charge.

Stay safe and enjoy your mechanical mods.

Dear Maxxis,

Thanks a lot for this awesome post. Can you please enlight and suggest me a good battery for VGOD Elite Mech Mod.

I see you have mentioned "There are no 18650 batteries with an amp rating above 30A so don't fall for that. Google Mooch Battery Reviews for a list. My personal favourites are the Sony VTC4s and Samsung 25Rs."

But on the Elite Mech Mod manual, they have warned to not use any battery less than 35A. I have attached the image here.

Regards,
Kamal

 

[GerritVisagie]

Those warnings are nothing more than a "cover my ass" IMO.
By stating you should use a battery so strong, it doesn't exist, covers them no matter what.
However, for single tunes, LG Hb2
Or Sony VTC 5A
Both have 30a CDR, 35a pulse.
Altough you should build for the CDR, and not the pulse rating


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Stosta]

It also depends on how low you want to build @Romiebleed .

When building on mechs I head on over to...

http://www.steam-engine.org/

Then go to the "Battery Drain" tab.
Then set your resistance

So for example I know that using an LG HG2 at 0.3ohms draws 14A.

You can then play around and see how safe your build is on your battery. I watch out for that field marked "Amp Headroom @ 4.2V"... As long as that is above 20% then you're well within safe grounds.

 

[Romiebleed]

It also depends on how low you want to build @Romiebleed .

When building on mechs I head on over to...

http://www.steam-engine.org/

Then go to the "Battery Drain" tab.
Then set your resistance

So for example I know that using an LG HG2 at 0.3ohms draws 14A.

You can then play around and see how safe your build is on your battery. I watch out for that field marked "Amp Headroom @ 4.2V"... As long as that is above 20% then you're well within safe grounds.

Thanks a lot stosta. Appreciate your prompt response.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hallucinated_]

Positive always connected to 510 when using a hybrid, when some thing goes wrong and there is a short on the inside there will be a resistance at your 510 to help protect you. Install it the the otherway around and face having a positive have zero to nothing resistance completing the circuit.

Hope that makes sense, seen a lot of youtuber's recommending absolute crap that orientation does not matter.

 

[Faiyaz Cheulkar]

How to make sure u are not over draining your batteries ?
I have heard of voltage testers, so does that mean all mech users have to carry one along ?

 

[Andre]

How to make sure u are not over draining your batteries ?
I have heard of voltage testers, so does that mean all mech users have to carry one along ?

Most unlikely you would over drain. Your vape would be very iffy long before you reach the point of no return, which is around 2.2V - 2.5V. Most mech vapers change out the battery around 3.5- 3.7V.

 

[GerharddP]

I "feel" the difference at around 3.6 to3.7 volts. I swap out my batteries without fail at that point every time.
With the builds that the "average" mech users build the vape feels weak long before you even get to 3.2V nevermind the 2.5V kill switch.

 

[Faiyaz Cheulkar]

Thanks @GerharddP and @Andre for clearing that up.

 

[GerharddP]

Thanks @GerharddP and @Andre for clearing that up.

No problem bud. Feel free to ask via PM if you need help. Rather have a happy fellow vaper than a news article about the dangers of vaping...

 

[franshorn]

Mech mods just scare the living crap out of me.
I'll stick to regulated thanks. Would like to try a mech one day. But don't think I will ever own one

 

[Riaz]

Mech mods just scare the living crap out of me.
I'll stick to regulated thanks. Would like to try a mech one day. But don't think I will ever own one

If you use the proper batteries you have nothing to be afraid about .

I have to admit , the mechs do look very pretty

 

[franshorn]

This is why I am scared...

 

[Riaz]

This is why I am scared...

They probably using "Chinese" batteries lol